Thank you. I am a mobile mechanic, recently had a customers car a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville with an EGR code. I used the info in this video to diagnose a faulty EGR valve. I had the 5v reference at the connector, and couldn't get the valve to click by applying a ground through the VOM.
The best. A proper explanation will take the student to the next level in repairs. You have given a valued service to each of f us watching. Thank you.
You Sir are a legend! A proper mechanic who actually diagnoses faults not just throw parts at a computerised diagnosis. I have a problem with my Vauxhall 3.0CDTi right now and if you were in the UK I'd be bringing it to you!
Glad i had this video brought to my attention. Having an issue with my 99 blazer p1404/p0405 tried 2x new OEM replacement egr valves + brought to a local chevy dealer they had to call GM directly because they couldnt figure out why it wasnt working. I check the wire harness and found the 12v red wire for my EGR valve is not getting any voltage from the pcm.
During the video I was thinking a cheap easy fix would be to jump the two 5V ref wires externally...and that's exactly what you did. Beautiful! Also for fun you could pop the cover off the computer and trace the circuit board to find the broken connection on that leg of the 5V ref.
I was going to try to pull the EGR valve and clean it, now you have convinced me to troubleshoot it first. Of course it is totally inaccessable. Thanks so much for the video. Ram 1500 4.7L
Scanner Dan GOOD Good JOB!! Using the AMP section of the multi meter as your jumper wire (as long as within the normal range of the meter < usually 10 amps > ) . I've been an electrician many many years and that was a great TIP for everyone. I wish I had a dollar for every time I went to build a jumper lead, when all I needed to do was use the internal multi meters circuitry to complete a troubleshooting scenario. Taught this old dog a new trick.
Thanks for this video ScannerDanner! I've been fighting with a rough-running Vortec for ~3 weeks, and this was EXACTLY the sort of video I needed to sort out the issue. Tripped over waaay too many "uhh... here's 12 minutes of me shooting a parts cannon at my truck" videos before finding your channel. THANKS SO MUCH. Clear video, clear audio, logical progression. Well done!
This video has been the most helpful I've found. I just bought a truck (2005 Ram 1500 w/ hemi) and right after I left the guys house the CEL came on. I should have gone back but it's mine now. Anyway, it was P0401. I started looking into it and could tell the EGR valve had been replaced because it was so much cleaner than the components around it. I took it off anyway and bench tested with 12v and it works. I cleaned the EGR tube while I was at it. I think the valve is hot side switched (controlled by the power train control module). The 3 wires that I assume are the potentiometer show ground (low ohms to ground), 5v (tested 5v to ground), and the last measures something like 4v to ground. This is with the ignition on, engine off and valve closed. I bought a new valve thinking the signal voltage should be around .8 v but it also measured around 4v. Are any cars set up such that a higher volt reading on the pot indicates the valve is closed, and lower voltage is open (opposite of shown here)? I'm starting to think it is a control module issue, but I don't want to give up yet. I checked continuity to the pins at the module and the 12v, signal, and ground wires all show continuity.
Seriously cant thank u enough. This video was like a missing piece of this puzzle i been putting together called a 3400 engine. I honestly feel i got 10 times more knowledgable on this subject from watching this. Respect sir.
i use my scan tool in EGR override on digital EGRs to command it open to about 90% and then closed while keeping the engine running with my right foot on the throttle.. this has cured a LOT of 3 solenoid EGR valves and stopped the pinging.. it also improved the throttle response and fuel economy went way up as the dilution of the O2% in the incoming air charge reduces the amount of fuel needed. this really is seen in open loop acceleration.
I've jumped similar ref wires several times through the years for 'poverty stricken' customers... but only after thoroughly explaining that the mod has to be at the customers sole risk. All were successful. Those welding tip cleaners are a fairly common tool truck item... but they might be tucked away in a drawer... ask you tool guy. Great videos, Thanks man!
Excellent video, Easy to understand and great knowledge being shared here. I like how in depth your repair is, especially with the verification of the pin being good inside the connector; a lot of technicians skip that step. Video quality and audio quality is excellent as well. Subscribing to your channel!
an alternative way to get a 5v ref to the egr is to use a LM7805 or a LM7905 (different current ratings) three legged voltage regulator, which is very similar to the voltage regulator in the ecu, run a lead to it from the switched 12V, these can be bolted to the case of the ecu
Being comfortable working with electronics myself I'll often open up the ecm and look for the problem. If it's a cold solder joint, then it's an easy fix. If the circuit trace actually burned, then I would be concerned about over current caused by something going on in the field on the dead 5v circuit and would do some looking around. In any case I would fix the bad trace and put it back together. If the trace was burned I would have been concerned with simply replacing the computer because whatever caused the trace to burn will likely be a risk for the new computer as well.
OMG. This is awesome! I hope you are getting paid well. I've had a check engine light (CEL) issue with my 97 Isuzu Rodeo for well over 5 years. (after I wasn't sure if my AC compressor was shot so I hot wired the relay to get it to run and melted some wires but that's another story) Several codes were thrown at this time. #1 cyl misfire and p0120 TPS error code. Took it to a $150/hr repair shop and shelled out a thousand dollars for them to replace the EGR valve and TPS and supposedly "clean out the ports." Check engine light came on in less than a week. I tested the purge valve solenoid and it was bad. Replaced it and CEL went off. Then it came on a few months later with the p1406. I used my OBD scanner and iphone app to clear the code and pass inspection. That no longer works. I figured there must be a bad wire or an ECM issue but didn't know how to diagnose it because, as you pointed out, the wiring diagrams as detailed as they are, don't show the whole picture. Anyway, I'm going to use your video to diagnose and fix this problem because this is exactly the issue with my truck. I hope you read this far because you mentioned your book. How to I order it? Thanks bro!
Thank you! From my website at www.scannerdanner.com Is your Rodeo using a GM electrical system on this year? I can't remember. While you are on my site, sign up for my forum, it is free to join and we can absolutely walk you through testing this if it is different than this video.
Hey Paul, I took the time to practice this method with my own car (05 Civic) and it worked great. Not that I had a code for egr, just did it to practice. Now here's the thing, as far as I know, there should be two 12v readings with the egr disconnected (one for the sensor and one for the solenoid, it is power controlled) but I didn't find them. I just found one with 6 v, the vcc and one with 1.6v. You mentioned something about bias voltage or something so I assumed that the 6v pin was my power controlled pin, and it was. Is there any reason of why I didn't see the 12v pin? Because I'm guessing that the sensor will have the 12v on it... Thanks.
Man, you rock! Professional, efficient, to-the-point, practical teaching. This is rare. I've got my degrees and experience in electrical/electronic engineering and I really appreciate your content. Subscribed.
Hey Paul, my 05 Civic service manual doesn't specify the 5v reference on the pcm diagram. Is it safe to assume that any wire shared by thermistors with other sensors is indeed my 5v reference wire? Thanks.
+Moving Up DIY No, the shared wire with thermistors is always the ground wire. Thermistors will never share the 5v ref circuit externally from the computer. Wiring to a thermistor = signal wire and ground wire. The signal wire for a thermistor is tapped into the 5v ref circuit internally of the computer but it is wired differently than what I am describing in this video. I hope I'm making sense. It's early my brother
+Moving Up DIY yes but you will not read 5v unless it is unplugged. Thermistor circuits are designed to pull down the applied 5v ref as temp of the thermistor increases.
+ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, you're such a great teacher. I'm studying for my p2 ase test and knowing all this stuff helps. I'm definetely subscribing to the premium channel. Shabat Shalom and thank you my brother in Christ.
+Moving Up DIY thanks man! send me an email through my website and I'll give you a coupon for a free month. Make sure you mention your RUclips name so I know who you are okay? Shalom brother.
Not sure yet. One thing I noticed is the buffer for scan data is now limited? I used to be able to go back and look at an entire test drive with a paused screen. It seems I can't do this anymore? If so....that sucks big time.
Thank you so much for posting all your knowledge you and south main helped me so much when i got error code p0406 teaching me how to test it with the tools i had and cheap ones i could buy. I replaced the egr valve to fix it still got the same code so I hooked up my DMM to the ground and signal wire and jumped the control wire with my test light got no change in voltage it stayed at around 5 volts even though it was open it turns out the position sesor on the new EGR was defective exchanged it for a new one deleted the code now it runs great thanks .
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS! Hi, I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there. NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it. It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours. I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not. NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4. To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving. No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission. I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be. I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried. I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing. Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing! I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often. To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them. I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD. I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground. I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry. I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure. Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor. I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all. Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back. Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go. Behold, the truck runs great with no problems. Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem. I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve. This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it. The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire. I removed the EGR valve again to double check it. The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor. Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test. About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value. Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect. Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve. Valve closed= 4.9k Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall. Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in.. Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss. Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved. Truck runs like new. I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced. I Got no codes for bad EGR The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4 Sorry so long, hope it can help TayloredSteam
Well done!! Definitely a good point on the older GM computers going bad a lot. It seems like the red, white, blue connector PCM's like the one in this video were the worst about that. It also don't surprise me that the new PCM also is bad cause you can find buried gold easier than you can find a good red, white blue connector PCM. Good vid as always.
Your an awesome teacher. I love how thorough you are with your procedures and explanations. What's that saying... "Give the man a fish and you feed him for that day. Teach the man how fish and you fed him for the rest of his life." (unknown) Please keep doing what your doing. You and ericthecarguy are my go to guys for car trouble. Btw I'm totally buying your book lol. XD
you're great with those scanners!!!! I'm in automotive school and also learning a lot and man idk why people say it's a waste and that they just take your money but no where no how has anyone taught me how do diagnostics just like in your videos. a little tricky at first but I'm getting better, I don't just replace parts on my cars anymore
Awesome Cesar! And I have more stuff too when your ready. Fill out the form on my website for a 30 day coupon for SD Premium. Mention this exchange. I'll bring you right into my classroom. Thanks again!
+ScannerDanner nice thank you! once I'm done with this semester I'll sure be looking for more!!! what is a scanner that you can recommend to a student? not a 10k device
Thanks Paul , great way to start my Saturday morning...... EGR testing videos w/ ScannerDanner! Love the jumper wire tip, plus it’s also fused through the meter. Not that you want to start blowing meter fuses, but you know it’s a tip to get you through a situation.
Well, I have a 93 Lesabre, so this definitely wasn't a "i wont ever see one of these" sort of deals for me! (unless something changed in those two years, but it appears the same from looking at it). (ALDL computer connector). Hoping you have another repair with this one. Thanks for posting, I also re-learned how to properly determine the ground side switch of a solenoid, unplugging the connector is a good trick.
amp meter switch . Great idea. I wish i would have grown up playing with electrical. It is secound nature to Dan now. There are many videos on electrical, but every once in a while i find one with a great idea... This is one of them.
Very well done and informative video, gotta thank you for this one. After determining the egr valve was bad on a 06 pontiac torrent and replacing it I ran into an issue where the new one gave -100% reading. Following your tests everything checked out n turns out the updated egr on that car has the wires reversed. Flipped em and now we're back in business lol. Thanks man
I have just tested my golf egr and the figures come back different so I’m hoping you can help. I tested the wires on the 5 pin egr and found two at 12.2 volts. One being 12.21 and the other being 12.24. So I unplugged the connector and guess what, they stayed at 12.21 and 12.24. How weird is that. Other three wires 11.45 connector plugged to egr and 6.63 unplugged, 12.22 plugged and 12.22 unplugged and 7.28 plugged and no change unplugged. No 5v anywhere and no 12v dropping to near zero either. Paul can you help?
No problem, just be careful with it, as Bushougoma said. You must know the current flow of the circuit you are jumping. Make sure it is well under the 10a rating of your ammeter. Otherwise you will blow the fuse in your ammeter.
Excellent video, this is a gold mine of useful information to someone who is being trained for this kind of diagnostic work. Thank you for the video and tips.
It would be a really good idea to remove your jewellery when you are working on camera. There are a lot of young technicians who you are role modelling for. I have personally seen horendous ring finger injuries...please give this some consideration. Thank you for being a great ambassador for our trade. We need more young techs that can fix vehicles, and not just throw parts at problems.
I definitely understand what you are saying. I am careful where I put my hands. My rings are sacred to me. One is my wedding ring and the other is a purity ring I wear for my sons. I'll take my chances with my fingers. I do talk about these with my class and have mentioned it before in a video. I am just simply not willing to take them off. Probably not the smartest decision but it is a heart decision if you know what I mean. Thanks friend.
Ok I understand. I just noticed a big scuff on your left hand. .. I am sure you were being careful when that happened also. No disrespect intended. I have a nice wedding ring too... it goes right into my tool box and then right back on when the box closes. I would hate to see a talented young man like you, become Danner the nine fingered partsman...;)
Hello again Paul. You will have to forgive me for contacting you on your family time. .. and please feel free to respond at your leisure. I am a new subscriber to your free channel, and I am looking for learning materials, that address automotive scanners in a linear learning curve, progressing from basic to advanced. I have heard you mention your syllabus at times, and I am wondering if that is an eBook, or a hard copy. I am interested in obtaining a paper version, and would also appreciate your referral to any third party materials that you have found to be helpful in your personal education. Best regards.
I have an eBook and paper book available on my website. www.scannerdanner.com It is a field manual for troubleshooting electrical and engine performance problems. Thanks!
Sir I have a problem with ford fiesta 1.4 tdci the alternator is charging good but in the dashboard battery indicator light is coming contunusele pls help me
if that computer was replaced a couple months ago, is it still under warranty ?, if still under warranty replace it, if something else goes wrong with it, would the jumper wire void the warranty ?
Paul, when you JUMP 5V ref wire, don't we need to make sure that the other 5V from PCM is not shorted, if we don't then 5V that u are jumping will be pulled to ground with that short.
Bad ground no question about it. You must check all computer grounds before condemning the computer itself. The computer provides the sensor grounds through the board
We need to be extra careful with these. For example, I have been playing with GDI systems lately and the computer controls BOTH sides of the injector circuit. But, with GM EGR systems, they changed it to power side switching and only control the power side. The other wire is a constant ground even though it goes to the computer. To ID which wire to energize, take a test light to b+ and touch on control wires. The one that lights up is the constant ground. The other is the switched b+ side
How dose a reference signal fry , I assume if probing with b+ and using a test light you may send a damaging voltage to the pentameter and blow a diode transistor very easily. depending the net voltage at end of test light. by inserting in the regulated line from pcm. Yes ,no, maybe ?
Hi there I have a 1992 Buick Lesabre that intermittently stalls out while driving, as well the speedometer will stop registering typically following this symptom the motor will begin to act as if it is losing rpms or is out of time position. But it always resets after turning the motor off for a short period of time. Also today when I tried to use the cruise control the motor stalled out a couple of times. Could you advise me of a scenario that makes sense logically/mechanically speaking? Please and thank you
Sounds like a possible crank sensor problem. Very common and matches your symptoms other than the speedometer. Could be something else, you need to check for spark when it dies and see if it is missing
Iv been reading your book and just wanted to say thanks again for taking the time to make it. I'm learning a lot of things they never mentioned in school
Why 3 wires for a potentiometer? Seems a bit overkill. Pins can't get loose over time especially the older a vehicle gets. Thanks for showing a way to test for that. Learn something new every video. When it comes to replacing an ECU you'd better be sure, double-sure, and triple-sure. ;)
Excellent video !!!! You know your stuff... I'm in computers but you did great job on teaching Auto repair. Loved it !!! Great Job !!! Was hoping you opened up the box and found a bad solder joint .... OK
I've got 12v on one wire when the connector is disconnected but when I plug it in both of the wires that are supposed to be 12 go to near zero. So that means I have a short to ground on the 'control' side of the 12v wire, right?
Awesome Vid! Here in Australia we have the same looking motor (3800 V6 Buick) in Holden Commodores, common as mud, this can apply to these motors too. Super instructional, thanks ScannerDanner :)
The more i watch your videos i have a strong believe that the Corrupt ,cheatter, lazzy mechanics MAFIA will put a price on your head! Just kidding! thanks for your honesty and for sharing your knowledge that seems not have limits, thank you Sr!
Fantastic diagnosis. Was that a rebuilt PCM the car owner purchased? They seem to solve one problem and then cause a completely different problem afterwards.
I had for a while the egr valve light po405 on but I knew that I had to clean it since I do it every two years but this time I decided to change it, so I when and bought from big city a egr valve made in Mexico and replace It, deleted the code with the scanner, drove couple mile and the engine light when back on, I check with the scanner and said again po405 position sensor circuit low, I guessed that it might had to do with the fact that is not original so I go and buy a new egr valve made in China, I replace the part delete the code and drive on, this time I was sure that it will go away but no luck after few miles (4-5mil) engine light came back on, I took out the engine computer and cleaned it but its back on again, light engine. Please can you help, I tried to find online the diagram of the engine computer to find the egr valve wire to make sure that it's 5V on it but I couldn't find something.
i def aspire to b as great as a diagnostic tech as u r simply cause no 1 else wants to invest the time and money into the rite equipment to give a thoro evaluation....Thank You for the inspiration! i will def b ordering ur book soon, and def will continue to show u love on ur vids!!!!
@@ScannerDanner thanks for replying, I figured this should be the case :) I'm in the middle of diagnosing a P046C on BMW N47 with electropneumatic EGR - uses separate ground swtiched, 12v solenoid for vacuum actuation and a 3 pin potentiometer integrated into the EGR valve itself for position sensor.
Wow man... I know some about cars and am trying to further my knowledge, and I have found the place to do it... This is your first video I've seen, and I hear you reference sections... I'm not sure what it's to, but I will find out, and I will study, and I will master as you have. Thank you for the GREAT video, your extreme attention to detail to explaining what's going on, and for simply putting this much information for free on RUclips. I truly hope you are doing this at the school you referenced, you get paid well, and the students love it and soak up the plethora of information you offer. Thanks again. ScannerDanner.
Thanks so much Matt. I do teach at a tech school and the sections I mention are from my engine performance book I've written. It is the main tool I use to teach my class. I have it available as an eBook or paper book from my website. www.scannerdanner.com You will not be disappointed, I promise! Keep watching the videos too. I have hundreds more.
When not using wiring diagrams and the component being backprobed is a suspect to begin with, how then can we trust the values we get in order to identify which wire is which (even though we already know basic circuit design)? Thanks.
Paul to the rescue AGAIN! LOVE your videos Paul, as always very informative and interesting! I’ll be using the USCOPE you hooked me up with 😀 to see if the EVP sensor is good… I’ve got a code 34 voltage too high on my 1986 e-150 Leor
No, because there is only one 5v regulator. IF there is a short anywhere, the entire circuit gets pulled to ground. Watch my Honda Element no start video.
Thank you. I am a mobile mechanic, recently had a customers car a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville with an EGR code. I used the info in this video to diagnose a faulty EGR valve. I had the 5v reference at the connector, and couldn't get the valve to click by applying a ground through the VOM.
This is BY FAR the best instructional video on RUclips, in any category for any application. Thank you!
Wow thanks!
absolutely! we cannot have enough tests available to us to help us condemn a bad computer. the more we have the better
The best. A proper explanation will take the student to the next level in repairs. You have given a valued service to each of f us watching. Thank you.
You Sir are a legend! A proper mechanic who actually diagnoses faults not just throw parts at a computerised diagnosis. I have a problem with my Vauxhall 3.0CDTi right now and if you were in the UK I'd be bringing it to you!
never would have thought of using the meter as a jumper I would have gone looking for power probe. great tip thank you.
Glad i had this video brought to my attention. Having an issue with my 99 blazer p1404/p0405 tried 2x new OEM replacement egr valves + brought to a local chevy dealer they had to call GM directly because they couldnt figure out why it wasnt working. I check the wire harness and found the 12v red wire for my EGR valve is not getting any voltage from the pcm.
During the video I was thinking a cheap easy fix would be to jump the two 5V ref wires externally...and that's exactly what you did. Beautiful! Also for fun you could pop the cover off the computer and trace the circuit board to find the broken connection on that leg of the 5V ref.
I was going to try to pull the EGR valve and clean it, now you have convinced me to troubleshoot it first. Of course it is totally inaccessable.
Thanks so much for the video.
Ram 1500 4.7L
Scanner Dan GOOD Good JOB!! Using the AMP section of the multi meter as your jumper wire (as long as within the normal range of the meter < usually 10 amps > ) .
I've been an electrician many many years and that was a great TIP for everyone. I wish I had a dollar for every time I went to build a jumper lead, when all I needed to do was use the internal multi meters circuitry to complete a troubleshooting scenario. Taught this old dog a new trick.
You should see the look on people's faces when I do that. Haha thanks!
@@ScannerDanner I bet. I wonder it it the " dear in the headlights" look? Or the AHA look?
for sure. and when in doubt use the wiring diagram to back-up your voltmeter test.
Thanks for this video ScannerDanner! I've been fighting with a rough-running Vortec for ~3 weeks, and this was EXACTLY the sort of video I needed to sort out the issue. Tripped over waaay too many "uhh... here's 12 minutes of me shooting a parts cannon at my truck" videos before finding your channel.
THANKS SO MUCH. Clear video, clear audio, logical progression. Well done!
Awesome! Was your EGR stuck open?
This video has been the most helpful I've found. I just bought a truck (2005 Ram 1500 w/ hemi) and right after I left the guys house the CEL came on. I should have gone back but it's mine now. Anyway, it was P0401. I started looking into it and could tell the EGR valve had been replaced because it was so much cleaner than the components around it. I took it off anyway and bench tested with 12v and it works. I cleaned the EGR tube while I was at it. I think the valve is hot side switched (controlled by the power train control module). The 3 wires that I assume are the potentiometer show ground (low ohms to ground), 5v (tested 5v to ground), and the last measures something like 4v to ground. This is with the ignition on, engine off and valve closed. I bought a new valve thinking the signal voltage should be around .8 v but it also measured around 4v. Are any cars set up such that a higher volt reading on the pot indicates the valve is closed, and lower voltage is open (opposite of shown here)? I'm starting to think it is a control module issue, but I don't want to give up yet. I checked continuity to the pins at the module and the 12v, signal, and ground wires all show continuity.
Seriously cant thank u enough. This video was like a missing piece of this puzzle i been putting together called a 3400 engine. I honestly feel i got 10 times more knowledgable on this subject from watching this. Respect sir.
Yes. That is what I did in the video. I just did it at the computer side instead of the sensor side.
i use my scan tool in EGR override on digital EGRs to command it open to about 90% and then closed while keeping the engine running with my right foot on the throttle.. this has cured a LOT of 3 solenoid EGR valves and stopped the pinging.. it also improved the throttle response and fuel economy went way up as the dilution of the O2% in the incoming air charge reduces the amount of fuel needed. this really is seen in open loop acceleration.
That is correct. There is only one 5v reg. even though there were two separate circuits coming out of the ECM. They are shared internally.
I've jumped similar ref wires several times through the years for 'poverty stricken' customers... but only after thoroughly explaining that the mod has to be at the customers sole risk. All were successful.
Those welding tip cleaners are a fairly common tool truck item... but they might be tucked away in a drawer... ask you tool guy.
Great videos, Thanks man!
Excellent video, Easy to understand and great knowledge being shared here. I like how in depth your repair is, especially with the verification of the pin being good inside the connector; a lot of technicians skip that step. Video quality and audio quality is excellent as well. Subscribing to your channel!
an alternative way to get a 5v ref to the egr is to use a LM7805 or a LM7905 (different current ratings) three legged voltage regulator, which is very similar to the voltage regulator in the ecu, run a lead to it from the switched 12V, these can be bolted to the case of the ecu
Absolutely awesome explanation of testing, I now feel confident enough to test my EGR valve with a P0405.
Thanks Paul
Glad to help, let me know if you have any questions during your tests
Thank you; I'm at Truman College, re: AutoTech program (Mr. Santamaria as Chairman as I recall it).
+David Jacobson thank you David!
Being comfortable working with electronics myself I'll often open up the ecm and look for the problem. If it's a cold solder joint, then it's an easy fix. If the circuit trace actually burned, then I would be concerned about over current caused by something going on in the field on the dead 5v circuit and would do some looking around. In any case I would fix the bad trace and put it back together. If the trace was burned I would have been concerned with simply replacing the computer because whatever caused the trace to burn will likely be a risk for the new computer as well.
OMG. This is awesome! I hope you are getting paid well. I've had a check engine light (CEL) issue with my 97 Isuzu Rodeo for well over 5 years. (after I wasn't sure if my AC compressor was shot so I hot wired the relay to get it to run and melted some wires but that's another story) Several codes were thrown at this time. #1 cyl misfire and p0120 TPS error code. Took it to a $150/hr repair shop and shelled out a thousand dollars for them to replace the EGR valve and TPS and supposedly "clean out the ports." Check engine light came on in less than a week. I tested the purge valve solenoid and it was bad. Replaced it and CEL went off. Then it came on a few months later with the p1406. I used my OBD scanner and iphone app to clear the code and pass inspection. That no longer works. I figured there must be a bad wire or an ECM issue but didn't know how to diagnose it because, as you pointed out, the wiring diagrams as detailed as they are, don't show the whole picture. Anyway, I'm going to use your video to diagnose and fix this problem because this is exactly the issue with my truck. I hope you read this far because you mentioned your book. How to I order it? Thanks bro!
Thank you! From my website at www.scannerdanner.com
Is your Rodeo using a GM electrical system on this year? I can't remember.
While you are on my site, sign up for my forum, it is free to join and we can absolutely walk you through testing this if it is different than this video.
Hey Paul, I took the time to practice this method with my own car (05 Civic) and it worked great. Not that I had a code for egr, just did it to practice. Now here's the thing, as far as I know, there should be two 12v readings with the egr disconnected (one for the sensor and one for the solenoid, it is power controlled) but I didn't find them. I just found one with 6 v, the vcc and one with 1.6v. You mentioned something about bias voltage or something so I assumed that the 6v pin was my power controlled pin, and it was. Is there any reason of why I didn't see the 12v pin? Because I'm guessing that the sensor will have the 12v on it... Thanks.
thank you for your support! I really appreciate it.
Man, you rock! Professional, efficient, to-the-point, practical teaching. This is rare. I've got my degrees and experience in electrical/electronic engineering and I really appreciate your content. Subscribed.
Thanks so much. My camera and editing skills have improved drastically over this but the content was always good :-)
I'm going to school to become a technician and this was an awesome supplement to what I am learning. Thank you! Awesome!
Hey Paul, my 05 Civic service manual doesn't specify the 5v reference on the pcm diagram. Is it safe to assume that any wire shared by thermistors with other sensors is indeed my 5v reference wire? Thanks.
+Moving Up DIY No, the shared wire with thermistors is always the ground wire. Thermistors will never share the 5v ref circuit externally from the computer.
Wiring to a thermistor = signal wire and ground wire. The signal wire for a thermistor is tapped into the 5v ref circuit internally of the computer but it is wired differently than what I am describing in this video.
I hope I'm making sense. It's early my brother
+ScannerDanner ok so I'll get 5v ref in the signal wire but it's not being shared? Same 5v circuit but different wire color?
+Moving Up DIY yes but you will not read 5v unless it is unplugged. Thermistor circuits are designed to pull down the applied 5v ref as temp of the thermistor increases.
+ScannerDanner Thanks Paul, you're such a great teacher. I'm studying for my p2 ase test and knowing all this stuff helps. I'm definetely subscribing to the premium channel. Shabat Shalom and thank you my brother in Christ.
+Moving Up DIY thanks man! send me an email through my website and I'll give you a coupon for a free month. Make sure you mention your RUclips name so I know who you are okay? Shalom brother.
At last i've found how to fix my egr valve control signal .Thanks :)
Not sure yet. One thing I noticed is the buffer for scan data is now limited? I used to be able to go back and look at an entire test drive with a paused screen. It seems I can't do this anymore? If so....that sucks big time.
Scanner Danner... You sir are the man!
Thank you so much for posting all your knowledge you and south main helped me so much when i got error code p0406 teaching me how to test it with the tools i had and cheap ones i could buy. I replaced the egr valve to fix it still got the same code so I hooked up my DMM to the ground and signal wire and jumped the control wire with my test light got no change in voltage it stayed at around 5 volts even though it was open it turns out the position sesor on the new EGR was defective exchanged it for a new one deleted the code now it runs great thanks .
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS!
Hi,
I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there.
NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it.
It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours.
I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not.
NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4.
To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving.
No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission.
I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be.
I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried.
I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing.
Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing!
I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often.
To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them.
I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD.
I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground.
I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry.
I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure.
Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor.
I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all.
Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back.
Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go.
Behold, the truck runs great with no problems.
Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem.
I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve.
This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it.
The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire.
I removed the EGR valve again to double check it.
The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor.
Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test.
About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value.
Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect.
Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve.
Valve closed= 4.9k
Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall.
Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in..
Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss.
Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved.
Truck runs like new.
I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced.
I Got no codes for bad EGR
The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4
Sorry so long, hope it can help
TayloredSteam
Scott Taylor I'm right with you and think I might try this just my misfire is cylinder 4
Well done!! Definitely a good point on the older GM computers going bad a lot. It seems like the red, white, blue connector PCM's like the one in this video were the worst about that. It also don't surprise me that the new PCM also is bad cause you can find buried gold easier than you can find a good red, white blue connector PCM. Good vid as always.
AWESOME! Im a fairly new tech desperately trying to hone my diagnostic and repair skills in a hurry.You have been a huge help.THANKS
You make it look easy Paul. I have more to do. :)
It gets easier brother
Your an awesome teacher. I love how thorough you are with your procedures and explanations. What's that saying... "Give the man a fish and you feed him for that day. Teach the man how fish and you fed him for the rest of his life." (unknown) Please keep doing what your doing. You and ericthecarguy are my go to guys for car trouble. Btw I'm totally buying your book lol. XD
you're great with those scanners!!!! I'm in automotive school and also learning a lot and man idk why people say it's a waste and that they just take your money but no where no how has anyone taught me how do diagnostics just like in your videos. a little tricky at first but I'm getting better, I don't just replace parts on my cars anymore
Awesome Cesar! And I have more stuff too when your ready.
Fill out the form on my website for a 30 day coupon for SD Premium. Mention this exchange.
I'll bring you right into my classroom. Thanks again!
+ScannerDanner nice thank you! once I'm done with this semester I'll sure be looking for more!!! what is a scanner that you can recommend to a student? not a 10k device
Thanks Paul , great way to start my Saturday morning...... EGR testing videos w/ ScannerDanner!
Love the jumper wire tip, plus it’s also fused through the meter. Not that you want to start blowing meter fuses, but you know it’s a tip to get you through a situation.
If I could find it, it could be fixed. I tried. Couldn't even follow the circuit properly on the board.
Well, I have a 93 Lesabre, so this definitely wasn't a "i wont ever see one of these" sort of deals for me! (unless something changed in those two years, but it appears the same from looking at it). (ALDL computer connector). Hoping you have another repair with this one. Thanks for posting, I also re-learned how to properly determine the ground side switch of a solenoid, unplugging the connector is a good trick.
Great video, thanks for taking the time.
amp meter switch . Great idea. I wish i would have grown up playing with electrical. It is secound nature to Dan now. There are many videos on electrical, but every once in a while i find one with a great idea... This is one of them.
Very well done and informative video, gotta thank you for this one. After determining the egr valve was bad on a 06 pontiac torrent and replacing it I ran into an issue where the new one gave -100% reading. Following your tests everything checked out n turns out the updated egr on that car has the wires reversed. Flipped em and now we're back in business lol. Thanks man
Great video. Lots of info what I love the way he's explaining it is very clear 👌
You are simply my ultimate goal and what I'm trying to be. Thanks for your awesome videos.
Third video showing this test method that ive watched. The first one ive understood.
My college tutor thinks your the boss
Thank you!
I have just tested my golf egr and the figures come back different so I’m hoping you can help.
I tested the wires on the 5 pin egr and found two at 12.2 volts. One being 12.21 and the other being 12.24. So I unplugged the connector and guess what, they stayed at 12.21 and 12.24. How weird is that.
Other three wires 11.45 connector plugged to egr and 6.63 unplugged, 12.22 plugged and 12.22 unplugged and 7.28 plugged and no change unplugged.
No 5v anywhere and no 12v dropping to near zero either.
Paul can you help?
No problem, just be careful with it, as Bushougoma said. You must know the current flow of the circuit you are jumping. Make sure it is well under the 10a rating of your ammeter. Otherwise you will blow the fuse in your ammeter.
WOW! I wish you were my Machanic. Excellent video.
you can get the torch tip cleaner anywhere they sell torches homedepot,Lowe's, tsc welding supply
good tip, thank you!
Nice to see thinking in the USA is the same as the UK. I use those gas cutter nozzle files for cleaning poor contacts.
If only life were like the Matrix and I could just download Scanner Danner's automotive brain
Excellent video, this is a gold mine of useful information to someone who is being trained for this kind of diagnostic work. Thank you for the video and tips.
+dtapunk22 thanks for your encouragement!
Once again, very impressive. You'd be worth the 80 or 100 bucks an hour shops want to charge.
It would be a really good idea to remove your jewellery when you are working on camera. There are a lot of young technicians who you are role modelling for. I have personally seen horendous ring finger injuries...please give this some consideration. Thank you for being a great ambassador for our trade. We need more young techs that can fix vehicles, and not just throw parts at problems.
I definitely understand what you are saying. I am careful where I put my hands. My rings are sacred to me. One is my wedding ring and the other is a purity ring I wear for my sons. I'll take my chances with my fingers. I do talk about these with my class and have mentioned it before in a video. I am just simply not willing to take them off.
Probably not the smartest decision but it is a heart decision if you know what I mean. Thanks friend.
Ok I understand. I just noticed a big scuff on your left hand. .. I am sure you were being careful when that happened also. No disrespect intended. I have a nice wedding ring too... it goes right into my tool box and then right back on when the box closes. I would hate to see a talented young man like you, become Danner the nine fingered partsman...;)
None taken my friend. Thank you for your concern.
Hello again Paul. You will have to forgive me for contacting you on your family time. .. and please feel free to respond at your leisure. I am a new subscriber to your free channel, and I am looking for learning materials, that address automotive scanners in a linear learning curve, progressing from basic to advanced. I have heard you mention your syllabus at times, and I am wondering if that is an eBook, or a hard copy. I am interested in obtaining a paper version, and would also appreciate your referral to any third party materials that you have found to be helpful in your personal education. Best regards.
I have an eBook and paper book available on my website.
www.scannerdanner.com
It is a field manual for troubleshooting electrical and engine performance problems.
Thanks!
This kind of high tech teaching is found only with scanner danner people!!!!!
So many great principles in this video. Really easy to understand as well
Glad you think so! Thank you
Some people they got it in there sprite to be teacher,you is one of them sir.TQ
whAT??
Great fix, i was thinking the same thing leading up to saying we can install a jumper, very clear well done
this is awesome, great video! Great help and education!
Thanks jaytechqu. . I am learning everyday too and I am far from great but I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much! What a great way to start my day
Very nice diagnostic process.
Sir I have a problem with ford fiesta 1.4 tdci the alternator is charging good but in the dashboard battery indicator light is coming contunusele pls help me
put another one or check dash
if that computer was replaced a couple months ago, is it still under warranty ?, if still under warranty replace it, if something else goes wrong with it, would the jumper wire void the warranty ?
After watching the video I myself test my egr in my 2005 gmc envoy and it now works the way it should thank you. Move teach videos
Paul, when you JUMP 5V ref wire, don't we need to make sure that the other 5V from PCM is not shorted, if we don't then 5V that u are jumping will be pulled to ground with that short.
Bad ground no question about it. You must check all computer grounds before condemning the computer itself. The computer provides the sensor grounds through the board
That jumper wire meter trick was cool. Awesome info Paul. Thanks
thanks----one of the best videos i have ever seen-------just great
We need to be extra careful with these. For example, I have been playing with GDI systems lately and the computer controls BOTH sides of the injector circuit. But, with GM EGR systems, they changed it to power side switching and only control the power side. The other wire is a constant ground even though it goes to the computer. To ID which wire to energize, take a test light to b+ and touch on control wires. The one that lights up is the constant ground. The other is the switched b+ side
How dose a reference signal fry , I assume if probing with b+ and using a test light you may send a damaging voltage to the pentameter and blow a diode transistor very easily. depending the net voltage at end of test light. by inserting in the regulated line from pcm. Yes ,no, maybe ?
Wow. Very cool. I want to take this guys class
You can right here!
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Hope to see you there
Hi there I have a 1992 Buick Lesabre that intermittently stalls out while driving, as well the speedometer will stop registering typically following this symptom the motor will begin to act as if it is losing rpms or is out of time position. But it always resets after turning the motor off for a short period of time. Also today when I tried to use the cruise control the motor stalled out a couple of times. Could you advise me of a scenario that makes sense logically/mechanically speaking? Please and thank you
Sounds like a possible crank sensor problem. Very common and matches your symptoms other than the speedometer. Could be something else, you need to check for spark when it dies and see if it is missing
I would sell my soul to the Devil if it would give me the chance to work for you for a while. Man you're good !
lol, don't do that :-) I can help you learn this stuff remotely!
Iv been reading your book and just wanted to say thanks again for taking the time to make it. I'm learning a lot of things they never mentioned in school
Great, just like all your videos.
You leave no stone unturned.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us. Joe
Why 3 wires for a potentiometer? Seems a bit overkill. Pins can't get loose over time especially the older a vehicle gets. Thanks for showing a way to test for that. Learn something new every video. When it comes to replacing an ECU you'd better be sure, double-sure, and triple-sure. ;)
Excellent video !!!! You know your stuff... I'm in computers but you did great job on teaching Auto repair. Loved it !!! Great Job !!! Was hoping you opened up the box and found a bad solder joint .... OK
I've got 12v on one wire when the connector is disconnected but when I plug it in both of the wires that are supposed to be 12 go to near zero. So that means I have a short to ground on the 'control' side of the 12v wire, right?
Thank you Rj! I have other material that will help you too. If you are interested check out my website. Thanks
Awesome Vid! Here in Australia we have the same looking motor (3800 V6 Buick) in Holden Commodores, common as mud, this can apply to these motors too.
Super instructional, thanks ScannerDanner :)
The more i watch your videos i have a strong believe that the Corrupt ,cheatter, lazzy mechanics MAFIA will put a price on your head! Just kidding! thanks for your honesty and for sharing your knowledge that seems not have limits, thank you Sr!
where have you touched the black wire of multi meter while reading.... plz ans plz plz plz
+Khuarram Sattar battery ground
yes it was and thank you!
Really useful and something I will use either today or tomorrow. Many thanks!
I had this same problem on a '97 Bonneville 3.8l. The reference was shorted internally in the pcm due to aluminum case flaking.
Very nice! Awesome test method.
Thank you Paul,That was amazing
Fantastic diagnosis. Was that a rebuilt PCM the car owner purchased? They seem to solve one problem and then cause a completely different problem afterwards.
I had for a while the egr valve light po405 on but I knew that I had to clean it since I do it every two years but this time I decided to change it, so I when and bought from big city a egr valve made in Mexico and replace It, deleted the code with the scanner, drove couple mile and the engine light when back on, I check with the scanner and said again po405 position sensor circuit low, I guessed that it might had to do with the fact that is not original so I go and buy a new egr valve made in China, I replace the part delete the code and drive on, this time I was sure that it will go away but no luck after few miles (4-5mil) engine light came back on, I took out the engine computer and cleaned it but its back on again, light engine.
Please can you help, I tried to find online the diagram of the engine computer to find the egr valve wire to make sure that it's 5V on it but I couldn't find something.
Have you seen this one? ruclips.net/video/HT4OnP4U0to/видео.html
i def aspire to b as great as a diagnostic tech as u r simply cause no 1 else wants to invest the time and money into the rite equipment to give a thoro evaluation....Thank You for the inspiration! i will def b ordering ur book soon, and def will continue to show u love on ur vids!!!!
This is gold. Thank you!
Wow! Pin drag testing! Awesome tip! Soon people will resell those tip cleaners as pin testers for 3x the cost. Lol.
Should you be able to see 5v ref with the connector unplugged from the EGR and measuring at the front of the connector (instead of back probing)?
Yes, absolutely
@@ScannerDanner thanks for replying, I figured this should be the case :) I'm in the middle of diagnosing a P046C on BMW N47 with electropneumatic EGR - uses separate ground swtiched, 12v solenoid for vacuum actuation and a 3 pin potentiometer integrated into the EGR valve itself for position sensor.
Wow man... I know some about cars and am trying to further my knowledge, and I have found the place to do it... This is your first video I've seen, and I hear you reference sections... I'm not sure what it's to, but I will find out, and I will study, and I will master as you have. Thank you for the GREAT video, your extreme attention to detail to explaining what's going on, and for simply putting this much information for free on RUclips. I truly hope you are doing this at the school you referenced, you get paid well, and the students love it and soak up the plethora of information you offer. Thanks again. ScannerDanner.
Thanks so much Matt. I do teach at a tech school and the sections I mention are from my engine performance book I've written. It is the main tool I use to teach my class. I have it available as an eBook or paper book from my website. www.scannerdanner.com
You will not be disappointed, I promise! Keep watching the videos too. I have hundreds more.
When not using wiring diagrams and the component being backprobed is a suspect to begin with, how then can we trust the values we get in order to identify which wire is which (even though we already know basic circuit design)?
Thanks.
Paul to the rescue AGAIN!
LOVE your videos Paul, as always very informative and interesting!
I’ll be using the USCOPE you hooked me up with 😀 to see if the EVP sensor is good…
I’ve got a code 34 voltage too high on my 1986 e-150
Leor
No, because there is only one 5v regulator. IF there is a short anywhere, the entire circuit gets pulled to ground. Watch my Honda Element no start video.