... that was an exceptional Presentation, thank you. My 2004 Buick Rendezvous, with a 3.4L V6, is stalling after it's warmed after 5 minutes of driving. It's a used vehicle, so I thinking no one has ever done any kind of maintenance on it, since I got in 2020. I had a P0401 code when I checked with my $12 scanner from the Province of Chinesium, CN 😆
I bought your book and think it's great that video's are linked in some sections. This is the exact problem my friend is having on his car, and now we can test to fix, and as you always say, don't be a parts changer. His first thought was to of course change the part, but I wanted to do a little research and find the root cause of the code. One part not needed and not swapped pays for the book.
I did one of these today... Was funny because the vehicle ran with the egr removed from the engine. Was kinda slow today so I tried an old hood release cable in a cordless drill and surprisingly worked really well. I made it with a large fray on the end and it cleaned it right up. This same car had a intermittent cylinder two misfire that I scoped out to be a shorted spark plug or rather before the air gap. It had lots of turbulence right after the spike and no air gap. Great video Paul, Thanks.
Thanks for answering my question. I didn't have to take off the throttle body. I tried the short piece of speedometer cable from the EGR side and it worked like a charm! You saved me a bunch of money!
You’d make an excellent engineer professor. You clearly speak eloquently and precisely. I’m very impressed. What does mechanics wire look like to clean out the passage way?
I took some carburetor cleaner and sprayed the pintle valve, and its orifice and let it sit for a while. I then took a clean rag and screwdriver, and put the rag on the end of the screwdriver and worked it inside the orifice, working the pintle up and down as I did so. It cleaned it up pretty good. This was on my 01 S-10 4.3L Also, for cleaning the passages, couldn't you have used some pipe cleaners (assuming you could get them manipulated to an angle where they would fit in the passages) to clean them out? Awesome video, as usual. I, as well as many others, really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do these videos. It's hard enough to work on vehicles, much less doing it while trying to film the procedure(s) at the same time. It is much appreciated! Thank you, and keep up the great work!!
You are a very smart mechanic bro. Wish we have mechanic like u here. My car jerks for more than 2 yrs now. Ive consullted KIA,HYUNDAI amd other shops but no one seems to fix it. My hyudai accent 2011 egr is openning intermitentlly, when in accel it jerks since egr is still open from 15% to 60%. Specially in the morning, but im driving for hours jerking is still there. Sometimes it goes away when i park for more than 10 min. But somtimes it still jerks . I have a new egr assembly installed but still the same prob. I cleaned the egr cooler and intake manifold, MAF,MAP, CKPS,DPFE,TPS,Turbocharger. Muffler, tried to clean the cat only by compressed air since its hard to take it out. I hope u can help me.
@ScannerDanner find the stud just above the starter with 4 or 5 smaller gauge wires going to it. Should be a couple of black wires and a couple of tan wires if I remember right. One of the tan wires is the O2 sensor ground. It messes up the O2 signal to the PCM especially while accelerating. During accel the engine torques toward the firewall and stresses those grounds. One by one the copper strands break inside of the insulation.
I just commented on one of your other egr vids about my scanner stopping the test after 30 seconds and i didn't know why, guess what? now i do. Thanks again.
@enx0884 There is two coolant hoses on the bottom of the throttle body, that is the hardest part. Unplugg all electrical connectors, take off two main bolts that hold it to the intake. Leave all of the cables on the throttle body and just move it out of the way. There may be a bracket that holds the cables that can be unbolted. You could also use a piece of small cable in a drill and go at it from the EGR side, never did it this way, but heard about it, can leave throttle body on.
Thanks so much! My car is just like this! It looks easy if I could just figure out how to get the throttle body assembly off. It looks complicated. Could you show how to take off the throttle body?
it could be from a sticking open EGR which would cause a stall, but on this model that should set an EVP signal too high code, not a flow code. As you saw in this video, the most common cause of a P0401 is a plugged up intake passage. Which will NOT cause stalling or running hot complaints.
On my 89 s10 pickup I unplugged the EGR soleniod and the truck runs so much better. Replaced my valvle cover gasket so I know EGR valve moves and I didn't see anything plug the passage way. I wonder if I can command the valve open by grounding it like you did. Don't think the red brick will command the EGR valve open.
HEADS UP!!! I discovered that oven cleaner works great to open up EGR passages and takes care of carbon build up a lot quicker than brake clean but DO NOT use on the valve itself. As a test I tried it cleaning the EGR valve on my personal car and a few months later a po1401 code came on and a leak between the valve block and the solenoid was found using a smoke machine. I think the cleaner ate away the seals inside the valve but I cant say 100 percent for sure because the valve has 100k on it.
absolutely! but it is not a scan tool so there are no by directional controls. it does not interface at all with the data link connector. it is a scope only with a really really good data base. in fact the component test database, in my opinion, is un matched in this field
yes I have a 2002 SL2 Saturn giving a EGR code and a clogged cat code when I drive it around the block it starts cutting out real bad and when you give it gas it cuts out and dies I replaced the EGR plug wires plugs coil pack 1 coil pack fuel filter and it still has this problem how do I fix it
@import0408 Awesome, thank you for the purchase. In the future you can contact me directly through email. It may be easier. I offer this to all of my buyers. Anyway, the answer is yes, it is the same linear EGR on the 3.8 and has the same pintle problems. The passages on the 3.8 are not the same though and rarely plug up on this engine.
I have a 94' Corsica with the 3100 and it has a rough idle and when driving, if I get above 50mph and slow down quickly, the check engine light comes on. I can turn the car off for 20 seconds or so, restart it and the check engine light is off. Being OBD1.5 I can't use an OBDII reader to check for any codes. I have read about jumping wires in the connector under the steering column, but found contradictory information on the two wires to jump, so I've avoided doing such. I've used Seafoam in the intake and cleaned the O2 sensor in hopes of fixing my issues. Which for a few days, it seemed to have worked, but then the check engine light began coming on again if slowing down quickly. I can kick the car into neutral or take like a mile to slow down to under 50mph and the check engine will stay off. Car sat for 8 years in my back yard before getting it going again, due to a low speed collision. Was supposed to be a project car for my farther and I but it never happened. So, would the egr be the likely culprit?
Dan, I have an 1997 acura cl 3.0 . I had a code which required cleaning out the passage ways as well. The carbon was caked up like yours, I cleaned out it by using a drill bit but I forgot to remove the egr valve. I had used carburator cleaner and filled the passageway to the egr valve. After starting up the car it drove ok but during idle the rpm was at 1000 rpm and ossilated between that and 1500 rpms. It was going up and down and up and down constantly. Watching a few videos here on youtube the recommended fix was to replace the IAC idle air control, which I did and did not seem to make any difference. Thinking about it and others saying a vacuum leak could be the culprit has me confused as to the fix. I did not have the reving problem prior to cleaning the egr passageways. I tried using a homemade smoke detector but saw no smoke leaving the engine. My question is would a peice of carbon slightly preventing the egr valve from closing cause the high oscilating rpm in park?
Does the gm 3.8 use the same egr. And does it have the same pintel problems as the 3.1 and the 3.4. Ps about a 1/4 of the way through your book very good stuff will probably read it 2 or 3 times in a row very good info. I did print it off and put in a 3 ring binder took quite some time but much easier to read than on my smart phone. Keep up the great work.
thanks a lot for the video - does it ALWAYS throw a code ? mine has rough idle and i have changed iac and tps...cheked vakum hoses , but stil has a rough idle, but only when its warm ?? i am getting pissed . if i pus the pedal juuuust a bit it runs perfect , but with no pedal it has a rough idle . please give me a clue ? i have no codes at all - same car as in the video
Hey just started watching your channel and think you are awesome. I work with my father and I’m studying hours of yourself, diagnose Dan and supermario to date to help hone my skills. My problem is I get a lot of French cars with many egr valve codes(Peugeot 208,308,Citroen c3,c4 1.6/2.0hdi) stored relating to p0401-0404 and always seem to check out fine when testing. Do I need to be more thorough on testing and keep the car over a course of a few days with umpteen road tests or am I not properly testing? Sorry if this is a rather dumb question. 😳keep up the good work.
1998 Saturn SL single cam. My only 2 thoughts i can come with is maybe the PCM is fried some how, but the fact a scan tool with bi directional control can force open the EGR to me it sounds like PCM is working like it should, other then this i can only think of the intake manifold being clogged or leaking gasket on it. Other then this im at a lost at this point, im also getting a p0420 code for the downstream cat but figure best to tackle EGR first then reset and see how it go's
@jagcar4407 Is this the EGR solenoid or is there an EVP sensor on top of the valve that you are talking about? Either way the ohm test is not the correct way to test those. Voltage testing on the EVP and voltage and current testing on the solenoid is the way to go. The EVP is tested just like a TPS (watch my videos on TPS testing). The solenoid is tested like any other solenoid (i have videos on that too)
After applying an asterisk screwdriver to the slot of the solenoid actuator screw, the EGR valve unlocked, and when pressed, it walks freely and returns.
make sure you rotate that while working it in and out, use carb or brake clean to break up the carbon deposits that are causing the valve to stick. Do not use a penetrating oil as it will simply burn off
I did not know that the ground of solenoid is toggled inside ECU, and therefore the coil is energised through ground, not +12 V! So as I measured the voltage when ignition on, the potential of the ground wire was the same as +12 solenoid wire. So I thought the ground wire is torn and i was going to seek for discontinuity. The idea of toggling ground manually to trip the coil is valuable when someone needs to test quickly whether the valve is stall/jammed. The only my concern is whether it is safe for ECU to toggle ground manually?
it can be the other way around on these too! I have seen power side switched circuit designs on some models using this linear EGR, so tread carefully. The fact that you read equal potential on both the power supply and ground for that solenoid is telling us it is in fact ground side switched. And yes! It is absolutely safe to add a ground, where the computer is applying a ground. Even if the circuit happens to be on, you will not be adding anymore load or current flow to the ECM driver. HOWEVER, if you mix up your circuit design and thing that you need to add a power, instead of a ground, and the circuit happens to be on, you just cooked the computer driver. Make sense? Chapter 3 material (playlist), right here on YT and if you want classes on this, same chapter 3 playlist on my website www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html I think you would like the classes!
@@nikolozkvrivishvili5343 oh wow, awesome, I didn't expect that. Thank you! Spend some time in my chapter 3 playlist and then don't forget to watch the newest classes on this same chapter in my SDP 2.0 playlist. Talk to you there, I am sure.
@haze541bsn LOL "damn you autocorrect" you have to check out that website. One thing comes to mind on the 2.4 is broken PCM ground wires above the starter motor. They break inside the insulation and look good visually, tug on them an they will break. Also oil in your air cleaner is either a PCV system problem, too much blow by gases from worn piston rings (internal engine problems) or you put too much oil in the crankcase.
@ ScannerDanner thanks I have been looking at those grounds and thought they looked a little suspect but didn't realize what they were for the PCM now I understand what's going on Im even wondering if that is interfering with multiple sensors creating an environment where the ECM doesn't "see" anything wrong one particular sensor because they are all not getting proper ground signal and I don't get a C.E.L anyway sounds like a project for my craftsman universal set and my dremel
question, can this problem with this egr valve causes a p0300 i have a 06 aveo with this problem,, have done and check injectors,spark plugs, wires, coil pack, compression and air leaks found nothing with all this things
very informative videos on egr,i saw all vacuma n electronic 5 vire egr videos youve done, but you realy could do more videos,on different egr systems,say on Nissan electronic egr which has 6 wires,double winding,controled in sequense. i would like to see that testing.
1 more thing I'm not sure if a have an actual PCV I'm not sure if the 2.4 is like the 2.3 quad that had the whole air cleaner system vs the actual PCV valve ... And thanks for responding I will check the site
Trying to get the EGR valve off on my 2003 Chevy Venture will be very difficult but this is the only thing that makes sense. Maybe not even need a new valve either.
I'm having to take the whole upper plenum off to get at it and still may not be able to get the crud out because of the shape of the passage. What a mess. This is NOT a 30 minute job and the Venture.
It turned out that the carbon buildup is directly under a hole for another vacuum or sensor fitting which I could have gained access to this clog. It was only clogged at the inner opening so a partial cleaning could have been done if I had known and the flexible cable you mentioned could have finished the job while in the car. Thanks.
I would like to ask something that has confused me if an engine only has a maf and the egr stays stuck open, in the end the maf measures more air or less at idle, because in many videos others claim that it measures a lot of air, others that it measures a little, what is the truth in the end ?
This is a complex issue. Too involved for text on a screen, but I have some classes and case studies on this on my website. Sign up for the 14 day free trial, then cancel before the subscription is up and you won't be charged and it will give you a chance to watch these videos STUCK OPEN EGR ON A MAF ENGINE (CAUSING LEAN CONDITIONS) www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-5-oxygen-sensor-testing/chapter-5-oxygen-sensor-testing-full/557-stuck-open-egr-on-a-maf-engine-causing-lean-conditions.html?highlight=WyJzdHVjayIsIm9wZW4iLCJlZ3IiXQ== www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim/chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim-full/254-chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim-pg-20-expanded-content.html?highlight=WyJzdHVjayIsIm9wZW4iLCJlZ3IiXQ==
@enx0884 No problem, I am going to try that next time. In the video I really wanted to show where the restriction was. I have had success with a coat hanger too. Keep in mind you should do the test I am showing in the video when you are done and make sure the engine stalls or just about stalls. Also be aware GM changed this linear EGR to a power side switched circuit in the later years.
Well done video! I have a question tho. At about 5:30 of the video Paul grounded the letter A pin to manually command EGR. Now, you're NOT grounding the wire to battery positive right? I'm trying to diagnose an '01 Impala 3.4L (p0401) and when I ground A to body ground my signal voltage (0.79v on C) does not increase. I have the proper 5v ref on D and 12v supply on E. EGR is new as I confirmed a bad potentiometer on the previous one which gave me a p0405.
Update: Just did some more driving tests with voltmeter hooked up to to C (signal voltage). Surprisingly I noticed that my voltage would drop when accelerating. It would usually go to .6 something volts but at a couple points it would go as far as .5v. What in the world?
They changed the polarity on these, the newer ones, both wires go the the PCM and it is power side switched. DO NOT jump anything until you are sure of your circuit design.
I showed the MAP in this video but if you think about it, it really isn't necessary, especially because ideally you want the engine to stall. So of course that will cause very high MAP volts. I have another comparison like this in my ebook in Section 23 but again I don't worry so much about the MAP as long as the engine gets real rough and or stalls. If an EGR is stuck open at idle fuel trim numbers will be severely negative. Not sure of a number though
Scanner Danner. I own a 98 Chevy Suburban K-1500, LT. I'm getting the P-1404 code. I replaced E.G.R. not once, but twice. Still getting same code. Engine does not stall at idle, or hardly hesitate ever. I get a little bit of buck, jerk under light, light throttle, or under heavy throttle. Otherwise no other symptoms. It's had new motor almost 3 years ago now, along with new Transmission year, and half ago. New Fuel Pump recently also. Before Fuel Pump, it ran really bad, but was not getting any codes, still experiencing these bucks, jerking back then. Took to my local GM Dealer who did work on motor, trans. They said replace, I did twice now. They want me to bring it in again, and charge me again for diagnostics. What's going on, can you help me out here??. I'm clueless of what to do from here. I do not have the fancy test equip you have. I've sprayed Carb Clean down orifice for E.G.R., scraped in there as far as I could. No change. Help!!. Thanks for any help.
@stingray300m can you give me a pintle position voltage with the engine off? if it is lower than idle you bolted the egr on backwards and intake vacuum is lifting the pintle open at idle. the numbers you gave me are too high for a closed valve position.
Thanks for the reply. Once you identify feed, ground and signal, can this test be done safely on any ground-side switched solenoid such as a EGR vacuum control solenoid or an IAC valve? Or are there other variables? I’ve been watching your content as well as Schrodinger’s Box to learn more about diagnostics, but I really struggle with the more abstract things such as electric. I work for a used car dealership and the Master Mechanic diagnoses everything that comes through the door and the rest of us just remove and replace whatever he tells us to. But I want to become self reliant.
I have the same car with original egr and fuel presure regulator. Car throws white smoke can any of those cause it ? Cant figure out what the problem is
Hey Paul, love your videos. I've learned so much over the years, and use what you've taught me almost every day as a 13 year veteran mechanic. Please advise: I had a p0401 code on an 04 Dodge Magnum 3.5L V6. Bi-directional controls were only available with "engine off". Scoping EGR position sensor matched scan data, it seemed to move fine. I suspected clogged passages. EGR valve solenoid is power side switched. I wanted to open valve with engine running to confirm flow problem. I wasn't sure i could jump to positive without hurting drivers, so i pulled the feed pin out of the 5 wire connector and energized EGR with the PCM's power wire disconnected. It was hard to do, but definitely confirmed clogged passages. Could i have jumped to power, engine running, power switch wire installed without damage? yes, right?
Yes, absolutely. Of course the key is knowing it was power side switched first. There is no danger to the computer by applying 12v to that wire. Even if the driver happened to be on 12 and 12 doesn't equal 24, it equals 0, in other words to wouldn't hurt the driver
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for reply! I thought so, but wasn't sure enough to try. Sorry it was an '05 btw. Scoured your videos for a good example of power side jumping. Eager to try it next time.
Hey ScannerDanner, if the EGR is commanded open and the car stalls with a 401 code insufficiant flow. What could cause this?. Getting ready to pull the intake manifold to make sure it doesn't have any carbon build up but wanted your thoughs before i spend the time doing this. Thanks.
I know on evap if you purge and seal let it pressurize and open the purge 100% it will stall for being to rich. Why does the egr make it stall when it's fully open?
I have an excessive flow fault code its electronic so no Vacuume pipes just a breather pipe. (mk4 golf 1.6 16v 2001 AZD engine code) ive tried loads of things been to a mechanic he hasnt got a clue whats wrong?
I am a little confused about the graph of the MAP voltage and MAP pressure. It looked like it is pulse width modulated in the last segment of the video. 🤔
Did I command it 100% open and then watched MAP voltage rise? I was just showing the flow rate by that test. It's a test that's really not needed. You basically want it to stall the engine or almost stall it with the EGR open 100% at idle.
@@ScannerDanner time period 12:54 to 13:14 MAP voltage and MAP "HG graph looked liked it was PWM waveform. After you ground switched the EGR, the engine stalled and the MAP voltage waveform went high with nice steady line. All I am surprised by is that the MAP signal looked like it was Cam sensor signal. Thank you
In this case, we have blocked EGR intake, which means no flow from EGR. The car takes only fresh air. Can You explain me...why engine is "pinging" under load?
Hi SD, I'm a bit confused as to when looking at the wiring diagram to determine circuit design at the part where the wires connect and go every where, how u determent which one was the one for that circuit?
Jesse the short answer to that is you need to start following my material on scannerdanner premium. There's a lot of theory and operation that helps when it comes to identification of the circuit that you're working on
I have a 2006 Equinox 3.4L. Cleaned the air intake and what I could reach of the inside of the EGR. Erased both codes after cleaning. Drove it less then 20 miles and the 404 came back on. No rough idle. Is the EGR bad?
I have an isuzu elf truck with p0404,p0045. I have followed the wiring and all seems good. My truck can only rev upto 1500rev/min. Egr looks clean. What should I do. Thanks
gee...i m looking at my car`s egr...there s 4 solenoids...seems like at idle, one is energised...no pot, no evp...i wonder how would i open the egr pos to 100% :P
i have a 97 grand am and i have a p1406 pantal posistion sensor circut code checked egr valve for carbon depisits none at all and the valve is not sticking open or closed checked wireing to the valve all 4 termanals are good the feedback voltage the fifth wire is 1.5-1.7 at idel the 5 volt ref is good and so are the solanoid wires checked the filter curcit with a test light and the light lit it has a dioed in the circut i thank i might need a new pcm what is your suggesten
I pulled the valve off of my 2001 S-10 4.3L, and scraped the deposits off of the seat of the pintle valve, but I also used brake cleaner to clean the pintle valve itself as I moved it up and down and rotated it at the same time. It worked really well, and it doesn't stick anymore. Is brake cleaner ok to use on cleaning these, or is it too strong? Should I have used carb cleaner instead?
@@ScannerDanner Thx man. Really enjoy your videos, so I subscribed to your channel a while back. Very informative for a home mechanic like myself. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into making these videos. I know it isn't easy trying to show the techniques you are doing, while trying to film at the same time. Keep em' coming man!! Take care!!
I have a 98 mazda 626 and I checked the ohms out of the egr valve and its reading 20.3ohms, the book says 22ohms min. should I replace the potentiometer?
Thanks, i typed wrong it was 401 not 410......Also I cleaned the intake and erased the codes and the 401 didn't come back but the 404 came back on within 20 miles of driving. Any suggestions? replace EGR?
Wondering if my she is faulty 1998 malibu 2.4 4 cyl poor gas mileage rough idle random stalling recent work done : new air filter tune up new cat new tires oil change new water pump if u know this engine u know that was no pretty job and no codes no light except for one p0300 random miss that was cleared and hasn't returned and that was b4 all the work that was done any ideas ..... Also there is engine oil getting in my air cleaner box .....HELP
hey man, I got a 1998 nissan sentra gxe 1.6 l. and today since I took my car out, all of the sudden it shut down on me at least 5 times. check engine light came on, I had it read n the code is PO400 EGR passages blocked, EGR pintle stuck closed, eg volume control valve open or shorted, and EGR temperature erro. do u think I just need to clean the egr valve? please help
Thanks for you interest! Not specifically as I am more focused on fundamentals and system designs that are universal and apply to ALL systems. Get the eBook version and if you do not like what you see I will give you a full refund. Thanks again! Paul
my sister owns a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4 they installed a new mass air flow sensor and the EGR valve they turned off the check engine light and we drove it for almost 100 miles everything is ready except the EGR we keep driving it and driving it and driving it and it still says incomplete and now my sister's license plates are suspended because we can't take the emission test until it's ready. I'm going to check that EGR air Passage to see if it's clogged. but my question is will all that clogging cause it to show incomplete or not ready?
Not ready or incomplete means the test was never run. Cleaning the passage won't fix that. A thermostat that is opening too soon may prevent some monitors from running. Change your thermostat.
they should have had a big clue of how dirty it was by removing the old one if they would of just took a minute to look at the passages. at least the customer would have got the problem fixed . gives the industry a black eye
Very good info. From retired auto tech, no longer have shop resources, this is right on. Thanks
... that was an exceptional Presentation, thank you. My 2004 Buick Rendezvous, with a 3.4L V6, is stalling after it's warmed after 5 minutes of driving. It's a used vehicle, so I thinking no one has ever done any kind of maintenance on it, since I got in 2020. I had a P0401 code when I checked with my $12 scanner from the Province of Chinesium, CN 😆
Ah, this is what I've been looking for! I've already replaced my EGR senor/valve, wish I would of found this earlier.
I bought your book and think it's great that video's are linked in some sections. This is the exact problem my friend is having on his car, and now we can test to fix, and as you always say, don't be a parts changer. His first thought was to of course change the part, but I wanted to do a little research and find the root cause of the code. One part not needed and not swapped pays for the book.
Thank you so much!
Great video. Fixed my ERG blockage issue in 30 minutes and the codes went away. Thanks a bunch!!
Poque. No. Sekinta. El. Codigo. 26. Mipueadudaf
I did one of these today... Was funny because the vehicle ran with the egr removed from the engine. Was kinda slow today so I tried an old hood release cable in a cordless drill and surprisingly worked really well. I made it with a large fray on the end and it cleaned it right up. This same car had a intermittent cylinder two misfire that I scoped out to be a shorted spark plug or rather before the air gap. It had lots of turbulence right after the spike and no air gap. Great video Paul, Thanks.
Thanks for answering my question. I didn't have to take off the throttle body. I tried the short piece of speedometer cable from the EGR side and it worked like a charm! You saved me a bunch of money!
You’d make an excellent engineer professor. You clearly speak eloquently and precisely. I’m very impressed.
What does mechanics wire look like to clean out the passage way?
A wire coat hanger but a little thinner. Had some good suggestions from the viewers, use an old speedometer cable in a drill. Thank you!
I took some carburetor cleaner and sprayed the pintle valve, and its orifice and let it sit for a while. I then took a clean rag and screwdriver, and put the rag on the end of the screwdriver and worked it inside the orifice, working the pintle up and down as I did so. It cleaned it up pretty good. This was on my 01 S-10 4.3L
Also, for cleaning the passages, couldn't you have used some pipe cleaners (assuming you could get them manipulated to an angle where they would fit in the passages) to clean them out?
Awesome video, as usual. I, as well as many others, really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do these videos. It's hard enough to work on vehicles, much less doing it while trying to film the procedure(s) at the same time. It is much appreciated! Thank you, and keep up the great work!!
A recent invention is a Smart Test Light which allows the user to determine how the system is switched.Great tool.
You are a very smart mechanic bro. Wish we have mechanic like u here. My car jerks for more than 2 yrs now. Ive consullted KIA,HYUNDAI amd other shops but no one seems to fix it. My hyudai accent 2011 egr is openning intermitentlly, when in accel it jerks since egr is still open from 15% to 60%. Specially in the morning, but im driving for hours jerking is still there. Sometimes it goes away when i park for more than 10 min. But somtimes it still jerks . I have a new egr assembly installed but still the same prob. I cleaned the egr cooler and intake manifold, MAF,MAP, CKPS,DPFE,TPS,Turbocharger. Muffler, tried to clean the cat only by compressed air since its hard to take it out. I hope u can help me.
@ScannerDanner find the stud just above the starter with 4 or 5 smaller gauge wires going to it. Should be a couple of black wires and a couple of tan wires if I remember right. One of the tan wires is the O2 sensor ground. It messes up the O2 signal to the PCM especially while accelerating. During accel the engine torques toward the firewall and stresses those grounds. One by one the copper strands break inside of the insulation.
I just commented on one of your other egr vids about my scanner stopping the test after 30 seconds and i didn't know why, guess what? now i do. Thanks again.
Those GM digital EGR valves actually last longer than most ppl think with frequent cleaning.
@enx0884 There is two coolant hoses on the bottom of the throttle body, that is the hardest part. Unplugg all electrical connectors, take off two main bolts that hold it to the intake. Leave all of the cables on the throttle body and just move it out of the way. There may be a bracket that holds the cables that can be unbolted. You could also use a piece of small cable in a drill and go at it from the EGR side, never did it this way, but heard about it, can leave throttle body on.
Thanks so much! My car is just like this! It looks easy if I could just figure out how to get the throttle body assembly off. It looks complicated. Could you show how to take off the throttle body?
it could be from a sticking open EGR which would cause a stall, but on this model that should set an EVP signal too high code, not a flow code. As you saw in this video, the most common cause of a P0401 is a plugged up intake passage. Which will NOT cause stalling or running hot complaints.
Excellent video. Thank you for posting this video. Please do more.
Freakin great video. Showed me exactly what I needed to fix my 401 code.
Thanks bud!
best video i've found on this. amazing. you're the best dude.
On my 89 s10 pickup I unplugged the EGR soleniod and the truck runs so much better. Replaced my valvle cover gasket so I know EGR valve moves and I didn't see anything plug the passage way. I wonder if I can command the valve open by grounding it like you did. Don't think the red brick will command the EGR valve open.
HEADS UP!!! I discovered that oven cleaner works great to open up EGR passages and takes care of carbon build up a lot quicker than brake clean but DO NOT use on the valve itself. As a test I tried it cleaning the EGR valve on my personal car and a few months later a po1401 code came on and a leak between the valve block and the solenoid was found using a smoke machine. I think the cleaner ate away the seals inside the valve but I cant say 100 percent for sure because the valve has 100k on it.
absolutely! but it is not a scan tool so there are no by directional controls. it does not interface at all with the data link connector. it is a scope only with a really really good data base. in fact the component test database, in my opinion, is un matched in this field
Great video. thanks for the hard work.
yes I have a 2002 SL2 Saturn giving a EGR code and a clogged cat code when I drive it around the block it starts cutting out real bad and when you give it gas it cuts out and dies I replaced the EGR plug wires plugs coil pack 1 coil pack fuel filter and it still has this problem how do I fix it
... this guy knows his stuff ....
I just pretend to :-)
@import0408 Awesome, thank you for the purchase. In the future you can contact me directly through email. It may be easier. I offer this to all of my buyers. Anyway, the answer is yes, it is the same linear EGR on the 3.8 and has the same pintle problems. The passages on the 3.8 are not the same though and rarely plug up on this engine.
I have a 94' Corsica with the 3100 and it has a rough idle and when driving, if I get above 50mph and slow down quickly, the check engine light comes on. I can turn the car off for 20 seconds or so, restart it and the check engine light is off.
Being OBD1.5 I can't use an OBDII reader to check for any codes. I have read about jumping wires in the connector under the steering column, but found contradictory information on the two wires to jump, so I've avoided doing such.
I've used Seafoam in the intake and cleaned the O2 sensor in hopes of fixing my issues. Which for a few days, it seemed to have worked, but then the check engine light began coming on again if slowing down quickly.
I can kick the car into neutral or take like a mile to slow down to under 50mph and the check engine will stay off.
Car sat for 8 years in my back yard before getting it going again, due to a low speed collision. Was supposed to be a project car for my farther and I but it never happened.
So, would the egr be the likely culprit?
Have to scan it for codes! Otherwise we are just guessing
SD you are the best.
Dan, I have an 1997 acura cl 3.0 . I had a code which required cleaning out the passage ways as well. The carbon was caked up like yours, I cleaned out it by using a drill bit but I forgot to remove the egr valve. I had used carburator cleaner and filled the passageway to the egr valve. After starting up the car it drove ok but during idle the rpm was at 1000 rpm and ossilated between that and 1500 rpms. It was going up and down and up and down constantly. Watching a few videos here on youtube the recommended fix was to replace the IAC idle air control, which I did and did not seem to make any difference. Thinking about it and others saying a vacuum leak could be the culprit has me confused as to the fix. I did not have the reving problem prior to cleaning the egr passageways. I tried using a homemade smoke detector but saw no smoke leaving the engine. My question is would a peice of carbon slightly preventing the egr valve from closing cause the high oscilating rpm in park?
Most likely not. This would typically give you a rough unstable idle, not a higher than normal idle speed.
My money is on a vacuum leak.
At around 1:00 in the background "where the hell is that part? " reply "how the hell should I know!" Love it.
Excellent video ScannerDan bytw
Great info... Was afraid I changed something while turning the pintle.
Does the gm 3.8 use the same egr. And does it have the same pintel problems as the 3.1 and the 3.4. Ps about a 1/4 of the way through your book very good stuff will probably read it 2 or 3 times in a row very good info. I did print it off and put in a 3 ring binder took quite some time but much easier to read than on my smart phone. Keep up the great work.
thanks a lot for the video - does it ALWAYS throw a code ? mine has rough idle and i have changed iac and tps...cheked vakum hoses , but stil has a rough idle, but only when its warm ?? i am getting pissed . if i pus the pedal juuuust a bit it runs perfect , but with no pedal it has a rough idle . please give me a clue ? i have no codes at all - same car as in the video
Hey just started watching your channel and think you are awesome. I work with my father and I’m studying hours of yourself, diagnose Dan and supermario to date to help hone my skills. My problem is I get a lot of French cars with many egr valve codes(Peugeot 208,308,Citroen c3,c4 1.6/2.0hdi) stored relating to p0401-0404 and always seem to check out fine when testing. Do I need to be more thorough on testing and keep the car over a course of a few days with umpteen road tests or am I not properly testing? Sorry if this is a rather dumb question. 😳keep up the good work.
Question:Does ERG blockage causes high idling?
Excellent explanation & video A+++++++
1998 Saturn SL single cam. My only 2 thoughts i can come with is maybe the PCM is fried some how, but the fact a scan tool with bi directional control can force open the EGR to me it sounds like PCM is working like it should, other then this i can only think of the intake manifold being clogged or leaking gasket on it. Other then this im at a lost at this point, im also getting a p0420 code for the downstream cat but figure best to tackle EGR first then reset and see how it go's
@jagcar4407 Is this the EGR solenoid or is there an EVP sensor on top of the valve that you are talking about? Either way the ohm test is not the correct way to test those. Voltage testing on the EVP and voltage and current testing on the solenoid is the way to go. The EVP is tested just like a TPS (watch my videos on TPS testing). The solenoid is tested like any other solenoid (i have videos on that too)
After applying an asterisk screwdriver to the slot of the solenoid actuator screw, the EGR valve unlocked, and when pressed, it walks freely and returns.
make sure you rotate that while working it in and out, use carb or brake clean to break up the carbon deposits that are causing the valve to stick. Do not use a penetrating oil as it will simply burn off
Perfect video good job!
I did not know that the ground of solenoid is toggled inside ECU, and therefore the coil is energised through ground, not +12 V! So as I measured the voltage when ignition on, the potential of the ground wire was the same as +12 solenoid wire. So I thought the ground wire is torn and i was going to seek for discontinuity. The idea of toggling ground manually to trip the coil is valuable when someone needs to test quickly whether the valve is stall/jammed.
The only my concern is whether it is safe for ECU to toggle ground manually?
it can be the other way around on these too! I have seen power side switched circuit designs on some models using this linear EGR, so tread carefully.
The fact that you read equal potential on both the power supply and ground for that solenoid is telling us it is in fact ground side switched. And yes! It is absolutely safe to add a ground, where the computer is applying a ground. Even if the circuit happens to be on, you will not be adding anymore load or current flow to the ECM driver. HOWEVER, if you mix up your circuit design and thing that you need to add a power, instead of a ground, and the circuit happens to be on, you just cooked the computer driver. Make sense? Chapter 3 material (playlist), right here on YT and if you want classes on this, same chapter 3 playlist on my website www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
I think you would like the classes!
@@ScannerDanner Thank you very much. I have join your classes!
@@nikolozkvrivishvili5343 oh wow, awesome, I didn't expect that. Thank you! Spend some time in my chapter 3 playlist and then don't forget to watch the newest classes on this same chapter in my SDP 2.0 playlist. Talk to you there, I am sure.
Well done! This helped quite a bit. Keep up the good work.
@haze541bsn LOL "damn you autocorrect" you have to check out that website. One thing comes to mind on the 2.4 is broken PCM ground wires above the starter motor. They break inside the insulation and look good visually, tug on them an they will break. Also oil in your air cleaner is either a PCV system problem, too much blow by gases from worn piston rings (internal engine problems) or you put too much oil in the crankcase.
@ ScannerDanner thanks I have been looking at those grounds and thought they looked a little suspect but didn't realize what they were for the PCM now I understand what's going on Im even wondering if that is interfering with multiple sensors creating an environment where the ECM doesn't "see" anything wrong one particular sensor because they are all not getting proper ground signal and I don't get a C.E.L anyway sounds like a project for my craftsman universal set and my dremel
P0404 is an EGR position sensor issue. the valve could be sticking or needs replaced. i don't listing for a P0410
question, can this problem with this egr valve causes a p0300 i have a 06 aveo with this problem,, have done and check injectors,spark plugs, wires, coil pack, compression and air leaks found nothing with all this things
very informative videos on egr,i saw all vacuma n electronic 5 vire egr videos youve done, but you realy could do more videos,on different egr systems,say on Nissan electronic egr which has 6 wires,double winding,controled in sequense. i would like to see that testing.
1 more thing I'm not sure if a have an actual PCV I'm not sure if the 2.4 is like the 2.3 quad that had the whole air cleaner system vs the actual PCV valve ... And thanks for responding I will check the site
Trying to get the EGR valve off on my 2003 Chevy Venture will be very difficult but this is the only thing that makes sense. Maybe not even need a new valve either.
Common issue (plugged intake passage), especially on the 3100 and 3400 engines
I'm having to take the whole upper plenum off to get at it and still may not be able to get the crud out because of the shape of the passage. What a mess. This is NOT a 30 minute job and the Venture.
I have heard of people putting an old piece of speedometer cable in a drill and using it as a "snake"
It turned out that the carbon buildup is directly under a hole for another vacuum or sensor fitting which I could have gained access to this clog. It was only clogged at the inner opening so a partial cleaning could have been done if I had known and the flexible cable you mentioned could have finished the job while in the car. Thanks.
@@MikeJones-rk1un Could you provide a bit more detail about where the carbon build up was and how you accessed it?
I would like to ask something that has confused me if an engine only has a maf and the egr stays stuck open, in the end the maf measures more air or less at idle, because in many videos others claim that it measures a lot of air, others that it measures a little, what is the truth in the end ?
This is a complex issue. Too involved for text on a screen, but I have some classes and case studies on this on my website. Sign up for the 14 day free trial, then cancel before the subscription is up and you won't be charged and it will give you a chance to watch these videos
STUCK OPEN EGR ON A MAF ENGINE (CAUSING LEAN CONDITIONS)
www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-5-oxygen-sensor-testing/chapter-5-oxygen-sensor-testing-full/557-stuck-open-egr-on-a-maf-engine-causing-lean-conditions.html?highlight=WyJzdHVjayIsIm9wZW4iLCJlZ3IiXQ==
www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim/chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim-full/254-chapter-4-oxygen-sensors-and-fuel-trim-pg-20-expanded-content.html?highlight=WyJzdHVjayIsIm9wZW4iLCJlZ3IiXQ==
GREAT JOB!!!! very detailed i like simple>
@enx0884 No problem, I am going to try that next time. In the video I really wanted to show where the restriction was. I have had success with a coat hanger too. Keep in mind you should do the test I am showing in the video when you are done and make sure the engine stalls or just about stalls. Also be aware GM changed this linear EGR to a power side switched circuit in the later years.
ScannerDanner I
Well done video! I have a question tho. At about 5:30 of the video Paul grounded the letter A pin to manually command EGR. Now, you're NOT grounding the wire to battery positive right? I'm trying to diagnose an '01 Impala 3.4L (p0401) and when I ground A to body ground my signal voltage (0.79v on C) does not increase. I have the proper 5v ref on D and 12v supply on E. EGR is new as I confirmed a bad potentiometer on the previous one which gave me a p0405.
Update:
Just did some more driving tests with voltmeter hooked up to to C (signal voltage). Surprisingly I noticed that my voltage would drop when accelerating. It would usually go to .6 something volts but at a couple points it would go as far as .5v. What in the world?
They changed the polarity on these, the newer ones, both wires go the the PCM and it is power side switched. DO NOT jump anything until you are sure of your circuit design.
@@ScannerDanner Ok. Thanks for the info!
I showed the MAP in this video but if you think about it, it really isn't necessary, especially because ideally you want the engine to stall. So of course that will cause very high MAP volts. I have another comparison like this in my ebook in Section 23 but again I don't worry so much about the MAP as long as the engine gets real rough and or stalls. If an EGR is stuck open at idle fuel trim numbers will be severely negative. Not sure of a number though
Doubtful your intake is plugged on that model. Most common is a sticking solenoid. On the 4.3 just unbolt the egr and inspect.you can see the passages
@blackericdenice no problem, glad it helped
What vehicle was this video on? Thank you
The map sensor is the flow monitor on this system so yes it is possible just very unlikely
That made me laugh, thank you. I am sure you know more than you give yourself credit for.
piece of cake bro 🍰
thanks for the tip 😀
Scanner Danner. I own a 98 Chevy Suburban K-1500, LT. I'm getting the P-1404 code. I replaced E.G.R. not once, but twice. Still getting same code. Engine does not stall at idle, or hardly hesitate ever. I get a little bit of buck, jerk under light, light throttle, or under heavy throttle. Otherwise no other symptoms. It's had new motor almost 3 years ago now, along with new Transmission year, and half ago. New Fuel Pump recently also. Before Fuel Pump, it ran really bad, but was not getting any codes, still experiencing these bucks, jerking back then. Took to my local GM Dealer who did work on motor, trans. They said replace, I did twice now. They want me to bring it in again, and charge me again for diagnostics. What's going on, can you help me out here??. I'm clueless of what to do from here. I do not have the fancy test equip you have. I've sprayed Carb Clean down orifice for E.G.R., scraped in there as far as I could. No change. Help!!.
Thanks for any help.
its broke
@stingray300m can you give me a pintle position voltage with the engine off? if it is lower than idle you bolted the egr on backwards and intake vacuum is lifting the pintle open at idle. the numbers you gave me are too high for a closed valve position.
If you use a Power Probe 3 or 4, couldn’t you use it as a jumper cable and give ground to the solenoid?
Yep, just have to be careful of what pins you're touching
Thanks for the reply. Once you identify feed, ground and signal, can this test be done safely on any ground-side switched solenoid such as a EGR vacuum control solenoid or an IAC valve? Or are there other variables?
I’ve been watching your content as well as Schrodinger’s Box to learn more about diagnostics, but I really struggle with the more abstract things such as electric. I work for a used car dealership and the Master Mechanic diagnoses everything that comes through the door and the rest of us just remove and replace whatever he tells us to. But I want to become self reliant.
I have the same car with original egr and fuel presure regulator. Car throws white smoke can any of those cause it ? Cant figure out what the problem is
Yup
Bad egr can cause the engine to smoke
Hey Paul, love your videos. I've learned so much over the years, and use what you've taught me almost every day as a 13 year veteran mechanic. Please advise: I had a p0401 code on an 04 Dodge Magnum 3.5L V6. Bi-directional controls were only available with "engine off". Scoping EGR position sensor matched scan data, it seemed to move fine. I suspected clogged passages. EGR valve solenoid is power side switched. I wanted to open valve with engine running to confirm flow problem. I wasn't sure i could jump to positive without hurting drivers, so i pulled the feed pin out of the 5 wire connector and energized EGR with the PCM's power wire disconnected. It was hard to do, but definitely confirmed clogged passages. Could i have jumped to power, engine running, power switch wire installed without damage? yes, right?
Yes, absolutely. Of course the key is knowing it was power side switched first. There is no danger to the computer by applying 12v to that wire. Even if the driver happened to be on 12 and 12 doesn't equal 24, it equals 0, in other words to wouldn't hurt the driver
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for reply! I thought so, but wasn't sure enough to try. Sorry it was an '05 btw. Scoured your videos for a good example of power side jumping. Eager to try it next time.
What can I use to get passage way cleaned out.? What kind of tools
Hey ScannerDanner, if the EGR is commanded open and the car stalls with a 401 code insufficiant flow. What could cause this?. Getting ready to pull the intake manifold to make sure it doesn't have any carbon build up but wanted your thoughs before i spend the time doing this. Thanks.
I know on evap if you purge and seal let it pressurize and open the purge 100% it will stall for being to rich. Why does the egr make it stall when it's fully open?
What kind of car and engine?
I have an excessive flow fault code its electronic so no Vacuume pipes just a breather pipe. (mk4 golf 1.6 16v 2001 AZD engine code) ive tried loads of things been to a mechanic he hasnt got a clue whats wrong?
I am a little confused about the graph of the MAP voltage and MAP pressure. It looked like it is pulse width modulated in the last segment of the video. 🤔
Did I command it 100% open and then watched MAP voltage rise? I was just showing the flow rate by that test. It's a test that's really not needed. You basically want it to stall the engine or almost stall it with the EGR open 100% at idle.
@@ScannerDanner time period 12:54 to 13:14 MAP voltage and MAP "HG graph looked liked it was PWM waveform. After you ground switched the EGR, the engine stalled and the MAP voltage waveform went high with nice steady line. All I am surprised by is that the MAP signal looked like it was Cam sensor signal.
Thank you
@@SS-U23 ah okay! Look at the scales! It is only .2v difference. This can be misleading on a self updating min max scale when you first open a graph
@@ScannerDanner oops, I overlooked the scale and the Min Max difference. Thank you for illustrating that to me. I greatly appreciate it!🙂👍👍👍
@@SS-U23 no problem! Great questions!
In this case, we have blocked EGR intake, which means no flow from EGR. The car takes only fresh air. Can You explain me...why engine is "pinging" under load?
+Paweł Czechowski the main purpose of the EGR is to cool the combustion chamber. So no EGR = hotter cylinder temps.
do you think the vantage pro is a good first scope? does it have bi-directional capabilities?
Hi SD, I'm a bit confused as to when looking at the wiring diagram to determine circuit design at the part where the wires connect and go every where, how u determent which one was the one for that circuit?
Jesse the short answer to that is you need to start following my material on scannerdanner premium. There's a lot of theory and operation that helps when it comes to identification of the circuit that you're working on
already a subscriber, just like to watch each section on each channel, but will keep watching, thank you!
I have a 2006 Equinox 3.4L. Cleaned the air intake and what I could reach of the inside of the EGR. Erased both codes after cleaning. Drove it less then 20 miles and the 404 came back on. No rough idle. Is the EGR bad?
On the 07 G6 both EGR sol wires are coming out of ECU, hot can you tell which one should be ground or power? On the diagram both say egr sol.
I have an isuzu elf truck with p0404,p0045. I have followed the wiring and all seems good. My truck can only rev upto 1500rev/min. Egr looks clean. What should I do. Thanks
You have EGR flow codes and the engine won't rev past 1500 RPM? This screams restricted exhaust
gee...i m looking at my car`s egr...there s 4 solenoids...seems like at idle, one is energised...no pot, no evp...i wonder how would i open the egr pos to 100% :P
i have a 97 grand am and i have a p1406 pantal posistion sensor circut code checked egr valve for carbon depisits none at all and the valve is not sticking open or closed checked wireing to the valve all 4 termanals are good the feedback voltage the fifth wire is 1.5-1.7 at idel the 5 volt ref is good and so are the solanoid wires checked the filter curcit with a test light and the light lit it has a dioed in the circut i thank i might need a new pcm what is your suggesten
I pulled the valve off of my 2001 S-10 4.3L, and scraped the deposits off of the seat of the pintle valve, but I also used brake cleaner to clean the pintle valve itself as I moved it up and down and rotated it at the same time. It worked really well, and it doesn't stick anymore. Is brake cleaner ok to use on cleaning these, or is it too strong? Should I have used carb cleaner instead?
Either one is fine on this application, nice job Jeffrey!
@@ScannerDanner Thx man. Really enjoy your videos, so I subscribed to your channel a while back. Very informative for a home mechanic like myself. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into making these videos. I know it isn't easy trying to show the techniques you are doing, while trying to film at the same time. Keep em' coming man!! Take care!!
I've gotten a lot better at filming and editing too :-)
I have a 98 mazda 626 and I checked the ohms out of the egr valve and its reading 20.3ohms, the book says 22ohms min. should I replace the potentiometer?
Thanks, i typed wrong it was 401 not 410......Also I cleaned the intake and erased the codes and the 401 didn't come back but the 404 came back on within 20 miles of driving. Any suggestions? replace EGR?
Have a 2006 equinox with a P410 and a P404. Any ideas? EGR pintle stuck and a intake cleaning? Once I clean them should I erase the fault code?
I used a hanger. it wouldn't go all the way through. It was like a was hitting a wall Should I be able to go all the way through the a hanger
Wondering if my she is faulty 1998 malibu 2.4 4 cyl poor gas mileage rough idle random stalling recent work done : new air filter tune up new cat new tires oil change new water pump if u know this engine u know that was no pretty job and no codes no light except for one p0300 random miss that was cleared and hasn't returned and that was b4 all the work that was done any ideas ..... Also there is engine oil getting in my air cleaner box .....HELP
hey man, I got a 1998 nissan sentra gxe 1.6 l. and today since I took my car out, all of the sudden it shut down on me at least 5 times. check engine light came on, I had it read n the code is PO400 EGR passages blocked, EGR pintle stuck closed, eg volume control valve open or shorted, and EGR temperature erro. do u think I just need to clean the egr valve? please help
what gauge wiring and whaylt amp fuse did you use?
sorry I have changed the egr an various other parts still have excessive flow
what kind of spray cleaner can we use
+jtorres698 anything you have, but you'll need to scrub it, cleaner alone will NOT work
HELLO do your book cover european and japaese engin like TDI and D4D
Thanks for you interest! Not specifically as I am more focused on fundamentals and system designs that are universal and apply to ALL systems. Get the eBook version and if you do not like what you see I will give you a full refund. Thanks again!
Paul
That is fair enough; I will Thank you,
No problem. I believe I just sent you an email about this too.
ok thank you
What about when you get the error code P0405 on a 99 Grand Am Gt.
my sister owns a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4 they installed a new mass air flow sensor and the EGR valve they turned off the check engine light and we drove it for almost 100 miles everything is ready except the EGR we keep driving it and driving it and driving it and it still says incomplete and now my sister's license plates are suspended because we can't take the emission test until it's ready. I'm going to check that EGR air Passage to see if it's clogged. but my question is will all that clogging cause it to show incomplete or not ready?
Not ready or incomplete means the test was never run. Cleaning the passage won't fix that. A thermostat that is opening too soon may prevent some monitors from running. Change your thermostat.
ScannerDanner the coolant thermostat?
Yes sir. As crazy as that sounds
ScannerDanner okay I'll try that thank you
Its a 1998 Saturn SL 1.9L. Single Cam.
they should have had a big clue of how dirty it was by removing the old one if they would of just took a minute to look at the passages. at least the customer would have got the problem fixed . gives the industry a black eye
I have po400...wat should I look for plzzzzz help
Good shizzle.
Why do you even bother with emissions? Delete them
1998 Saturn SL single cam