I have the exact same problem and exact same system. Thanks man you’re a life saver. I’ll get the board soon. Where can I get it and not get ripped off?
I found out about to late and bought a new board. Now the problem is it doesn't recognize the salt cell, like it use to. Any feedback would be great pal.
I have an older Aqua Rite, (the version that the fuse is connected from below the box), the no flow light does not come on, even when I unplug the flow sensor cable from it. Also it does not show on my Aqua Link RS6 anymore. It shows 32 volts but 0 amps it is not making any chlorine. Shows the salt level at 2900. The fuse is ok and power comes in. The only LED lights that are on are the power and the Aqua Link RS6 light (however, no apparent connection to it). Any ideas you can help me with on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
@@EliteSwimmingPoolsTV About 4 years and is a T-15, however, my Aquarite is set on T-5 and won't let me change it to T-15 either. Also my Aqua Link RS6 does not show any info from the AquaRite.
YOU ARE THE MAN! Even though I just ordered a new salt cell yesterday, I will order a new board today because of your video. I have the same exact system config as you worked on here. I would have tried re-soldering the components as I have done in the past with a NO CELL POWER issue but; there is only so much I am willing to do. Where do you recommend getting a new board?
our chlorinator stays on for about 10 seconds then boom it turns off. what do we do? we bought a new panel (the small box you get your settings, timers, etc on) and we got a new salt cell!
The error I am getting is chlorinator off/ High Salt Amp ( Check system High Amp) when my salt level is low. I have checked the K1 relay and it NOT burned out. We have a new salt cell Generic T-Cell 15. Plus it does not turn on and off automatically. I have to do it manually. My system is 16 years old. Software revision 3.0 Reading in diagnostic mode: -25.16V -8.51bA 82 F 4400 PPM When my salt is low. But when I shock the pool it look brand new. What wrong here. Is it my board? Please advise.
Without electronically diagnosing it. It’s difficult for me to guide you properly. If your unit is not turning off and is always on, I uploaded a video regarding this very problem. Go to our channel and watch it fully.
You didn't tell us what the problem was... you just replaced the entire board. I have already had to resolder a joint on my board. More than likely one component or solder joint on the board was bad. There may be no need to replace the entire board.
On this board it was bad fried components. Parts are not sold at component level, boards are simply replaced. Quickest and easiest way to fix without worrying about if it’s working properly or not. Some people elect to dabble with soldering and replacing components on boards as yourself (I used to due to a past job as a electronic tech) but today just swap out the board.
@@EliteSwimmingPoolsTV EASY for you to say, it's not your money. Hayward and every product they make are garbage. I have the exact same two joints fried as you showed. Is the new board going todo the exact same thing? Pay attention everyone!! This is a VERY COMMON problem with Hayward systems!
Man i almost bought a new cell because this info is nowhere to be found. You are a life saver! Thank you!
Your welcome. I gals to have provided you great and unique content. Be sure to subscribe and watch other videos
any chance you know what part of the board goes bad causing this issue?
I have the exact same problem and exact same system. Thanks man you’re a life saver. I’ll get the board soon. Where can I get it and not get ripped off?
I found out about to late and bought a new board. Now the problem is it doesn't recognize the salt cell, like it use to. Any feedback would be great pal.
Maybe the board you purchase is not an oem manufacturer board. Return board and purchase a oem.
I have an older Aqua Rite, (the version that the fuse is connected from below the box), the no flow light does not come on, even when I unplug the flow sensor cable from it. Also it does not show on my Aqua Link RS6 anymore. It shows 32 volts but 0 amps it is not making any chlorine. Shows the salt level at 2900. The fuse is ok and power comes in. The only LED lights that are on are the power and the Aqua Link RS6 light (however, no apparent connection to it). Any ideas you can help me with on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
How old is the cell?
@@EliteSwimmingPoolsTV About 4 years and is a T-15, however, my Aquarite is set on T-5 and won't let me change it to T-15 either. Also my Aqua Link RS6 does not show any info from the AquaRite.
YOU ARE THE MAN! Even though I just ordered a new salt cell yesterday, I will order a new board today because of your video. I have the same exact system config as you worked on here. I would have tried re-soldering the components as I have done in the past with a NO CELL POWER issue but; there is only so much I am willing to do. Where do you recommend getting a new board?
Buy from an authorized dealer. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please ensure you subscribe
our chlorinator stays on for about 10 seconds then boom it turns off. what do we do? we bought a new panel (the small box you get your settings, timers, etc on) and we got a new salt cell!
Umm i would need more info to help you. First start with checking incoming voltage and ensure it’s correct.
The error I am getting is chlorinator off/ High Salt Amp ( Check system High Amp) when my salt level is low. I have checked the K1 relay and it NOT burned out. We have a new salt cell Generic T-Cell 15. Plus it does not turn on and off automatically. I have to do it manually.
My system is 16 years old. Software revision 3.0
Reading in diagnostic mode:
-25.16V -8.51bA
82 F 4400 PPM
When my salt is low. But when I shock the pool it look brand new.
What wrong here. Is it my board? Please advise.
Without electronically diagnosing it. It’s difficult for me to guide you properly. If your unit is not turning off and is always on, I uploaded a video regarding this very problem. Go to our channel and watch it fully.
My diagnostics menu shows -26.98 v - 5.13 a. Salt ppm is much lower than the actual salt in pool
Turn off pump, disconnect the cell unions, check cell blades for calcification and perform a cell cleaning.
Also the cell itself may have or is reaching its life end cycle and not reading correctly. Check the age of the cell.
You didn't tell us what the problem was... you just replaced the entire board. I have already had to resolder a joint on my board. More than likely one component or solder joint on the board was bad. There may be no need to replace the entire board.
On this board it was bad fried components. Parts are not sold at component level, boards are simply replaced. Quickest and easiest way to fix without worrying about if it’s working properly or not. Some people elect to dabble with soldering and replacing components on boards as yourself (I used to due to a past job as a electronic tech) but today just swap out the board.
@@EliteSwimmingPoolsTV EASY for you to say, it's not your money. Hayward and every product they make are garbage. I have the exact same two joints fried as you showed. Is the new board going todo the exact same thing? Pay attention everyone!! This is a VERY COMMON problem with Hayward systems!
Well… do what makes you comfortable. Enjoy 😉