How to re-solder new thermistor on AquaRite Hayward Chlorinator
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2024
- This isn't a typical repair we do in the shop but with a soldering iron and a new thermistor we got it fixed right up! About 2-3 years ago this customer brought in his circuit board with the need to replace the thermistor. The thermistor has now failed again because the device is always in the heat so in this video we replace it again!
Today we dive into what it takes to replace the thermistor on an AquaRite Hayward Chlorinator. Whether you’re a repair shop or not…watch this video, I think you'll find it interesting.
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Yes... amazon $10.00 for 2 thermistor and 19.00 for a sodering kit...I rocked it back and forth till it snapped off then used the iron to make holes to put the new one in .working perfect now..
Great work!! Glad you found this useful!
THANK YOU for this video! I watched another person's video, did the repair wrong three or four times, UGH...then found this and did it correctly. Moral of the story: watch more than one person's tutorial before attempting a repair. ;)
Great video. I was able to order the right parts and complete the repair in half an hour.
My aquarite power led would come on and then off after a while and repeats. Replaced the thermistor and works OK now. Thanks for this
You have the part # or where you bought it from
How hot do these thermistor supposed to get when running?
From other videos, it looked like a thermistor decreased in resistance as it headed up. For the Hayward boards, does the board logic measure the voltage and kill the power if it reaches a certain threshold? As a current limiter, I'd have thought it would increase resistance with heat, but that doesn't seem to be how these work.
I replaced the thermistor, and the cell went back to generate chlorine. However now the metal housing is very HOT ALL the time, specially behind the transformer. Why is this happening? It was not hot before replacing the thermistor. Everything else in the panel and housing looks normal. Should I keep it running?
Nice Video! Tbh have no idea what's going on but still cool.
A quick cheat - don't de-solder the part. Cut the part off from the other side, leaving the pins sticking up..... cut the pins on the new part a little shorter so the part doesn't sit too high and just solder the legs together. This isn't best practice, but it works just fine. I was able to do it with the PCB still mounted in the case. Powered off and capacitors dissipated. I have an electronics manufacturing company that assembles PCBs and completely aware of best practice. But this is a simple work around for people that don't have experience soldering and don't want to take apart their unit.
What is the thermister part number that you used and the supplier ? Thanks .
How did you know that was the bad part?
It was physically broken and in a few forums they found that swapping made it work again.
This one was just a straight part swap, no measurements were taken
It can look brown or burned around the terminals
No link for the thermistor.....
I've got a board I just replaced, but the symptoms was no power LED, though it was showing a "no flow" LED.
I'd like to see if the old board is repairable. Can I test the thermistor without removing it to see if it's broken? It isn't visibly damaged. The rubber around the legs *might* be a little discolored, but it could just be age.
I would think I could touch the contact plates with my multimeter and measure if the resistance is as expected at room temp.
Nice video, good skills but the soldering gun was corroded and thats why you needed the hot air. Keeping your the tip of your somdering iron clean goes a long ways. Cheers
Dj Speaker AMPS from Self Powered Speakers. Alot of dj speakers on the market with blown capacitors on the amps for cheap, these can be easy flips.
No one shows how to remove the whole board from the control panel box?
It’s very easy. Remove all wires from the board. 2 5/16” screws at the bottom. Loosen them and pick straight up. The board will come right out
If you look at the bottom of the board you can see two voids. In the box, these voids house securing/grounding bolts. Remove all the wires, loosen the bolts and you will be able to slide the board up and remove it. The white spacer posts go into slots
Its a voltage regulating capacitor, not a thermistor.
you must be a blast at parties
Actually that is a thermistor.