For people saying I'm giving out bad information, these 10 (11 tips on the website) tips are based off speed, efficiency and results from soldering for the past 20 years. I have a degree in electronics engineering and my first job out of college was repairing surface mount components under a microscope at Nokia. My job for 3 years was soldering daily. I can comfortably say I've built over 100 quads. When you've been soldering for this long you find out what works and what doesn't. Yes in school they teach you to use flux but we all know what is taught in school is not always practical in real life. I'm not saying don't use flux, it's just not needed. Use a rosin core solder, it has flux in it. As for the tip, I'm just saying the cone tip is a more versatile tip. Yes, a wedge tip is great for batteries and motor wires but there are some jobs it can't do. Like if you're trying to replace a surface mount component on a vtx or flight controller. Try replacing a microprocessor chip with a wedge tip, you'll end up with solder blobs everywhere and kill the chip. A cone tip doesn't excel for any job but it can do all jobs.
Not sure what anyone is complaining about. All the tips in this video were pretty dead on. Obviously if typically working with heavier wires or large metal contacts such as Deans connectors or even MOSFET heat sinks, it might make more sense to use a wedge. For this type of work, a cone tip makes sense. As for the heat, like you said, more heat for a short period of time is better than less heat for a long period of time. The people arguing have been taught wrong. Also never understood the obsession with flux. It simply isn't necessary for most jobs. Only thing I would add to this video is info on tinning your tip and making contact with the tinned wire itself before pulling away from a pad.
Good stuff. I write work instructions for electronics assembly, BSEE with 35 years manufacturing experience. Rather than recommend a single tip for soldering I would say size the tip to the job. The large wedge tip will transfer more heat to large wires faster than the small conical tip thus reducing the dwell time on the contact. I would also add a tip, use liquid flux. The main job for flux is to remove oxides on the metal surface to be soldered, when soldering to dull surfaces like old copper contacts or wires adding additional liquid flux will make the job faster and cleaner. This is a pro tip that most hobbyist will never discover on their own. The small bottle linked below will allow pin point application of liquid flux. www.zoro.com/plato-flux-dispenser-2-oz-needle-tip-fd-2/i/G5391321/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAiAsoviBRAoEiwATm8OYG9Mb23RXDgbKh09bc9rnGa31155n5jT6k8qqC2iENXC0Sl8lllS2xoCkPsQAvD_BwE
Absolutely , experience in soldering gives you the idea what u really need and what is optional , I also trained my junior how to solder and they were like ,.....we learned from book to use flux ...why are u not using ....
All great tips! Tip 11: Practice a LOT and practice on scrap electronics. Scrap and broken parts are plentiful! I found that because i sometimes go for long periods of time between solder work, it really helps to do a little practice before working on something, just to freshen up my skills.
@@DavefromCA2023 If you cant find old or broken electronics from people you know, go to a Goodwill (or other thrift shop) and you can buy stuff for just a couple bucks. You can always practice with just a couple pieces of wire. Another option is to buy a soldering project online.
This suggestion is really good. I normally go months between having to solder things and you're right the first one always kinda sucks so the first one from now on will be on a test bed
@@Drckarvo It is racial/cultural but I don't think it's racist, it's true. Just go hang out with some other ethnic family groups (Fuck I hate being PC) you'll find some amazing differences. Many are to be envied. Work ethic and accomplishment can seem like a harsh way to raise, but goal setting and setting realistic expectations of your children and family, seems pretty logical and compassionate to me. Also, I talk, a lot. Feel free to ignore. :) Peace and thanks for the intelligent and concise video. Brevity and accuracy, everyone can appreciate. Cheers to Flight Club. :)
@@FSUOSU25 I wish I had some wise info for you, but the top ten is excellent. I have a motorcycle repair shop and I do not solder on a daily basis. When I do, it needs to be done correctly and survive the vibrations and abuse. I am always open to new ideas and easier methods, I’m a old dog who does learn new tricks! What is your new? I hope it is something you will enjoy, that is info I do have experience about. Good luck.
@@richardbartlett4075 that's good feedback I appreciate that. This new job I'm doing involved soldering components onto circuit boards. I'm really liking it. I just want to do well because it pays pretty decent. I have a great mentor and the rest of the crew are great. I'll keep you posted along the way. Thanks again and I that's cool you have a motorcycle repair shop. Take care.
Thank you. I literally watched your video and used a Radio Shack soldering iron I bought over 10 years but never used. I repaired a lighter car plug. I also had rosin core solder I bought with the soldering iron. Thank you. Thank you.
It has been decades since I was in electronics and electrical shop at high school. Now I am going to do some fine, small wire soldering to install a car audio system. I am so thankful that I came across your video. These ten tips to improve my skills are most definitely going to result in my success with this project that I am doing. Thanks so very much for your easy to understand instruction.
TO MOST ITS JUST COMMON SENSE OR U GET SOMEONE THAT KNOWS SOLDERING TO DO IT FOR YOU. IF U NEED THAT ADVICE BETTER ADVICE WUD BE GET A PRO TO DO IT AS U WILL ONLY HURT URSELF
@@odoggow8157 First of all there's a button called "caps lock" I think you should try and press it just once, besides that, shut the fuck up, the way you respond to people makes you seem extremely questionable and insecure, so just stop my dude
@@odoggow8157 Your advice to "get someone who knows what they're doing to do it" is quite frankly, GARBAGE. I have learned many skills (including soldering) simply by trial and error. Could I have saved myself a lot of frustration by handing my child's toy off to someone who knew what they were doing? Absolutely! But what would my child have learned from that? Not that it's ok to try new things even when you're scared, not that just because you fail the first time doesn't mean you won't succeed your 2nd (or in my case 3rd) time, not that just cause it's "a man's job" doesn't mean a woman can't do it and vice versa? And honestly what would I have gotten from doing that? Not the sense of accomplishment from learning something new, not the feeling of pride you get bc your child thinks you're a super hero for fixing their toy...but I would've ended up with yet another bill that as a single mother of 2 I simply can't afford...so take your don't try this at home advice and shove it up your a$$.
Just a few tips: 1. the flux melts first cleaning oxidation so the solder can wet the pads when it melts. 2. I would use the larger tip for the larger pads and wire. 3. Don't mash on your solder wick. This is where you could use some external flux. Flux the pad and the solder wick, melt your solder and put the end of the solder wick into the melted solder. No pulled pads and it will wick really fast. Other than that I liked all your info regarding tools and equipment. Not bad info; it will get the job done. And, btw, I'm a master soldering instructor, been doing it for 40 years.
Hi Marilyn. I started a job that involves soldering. I like it, but I want to make sure I do well enough to keep. It's my third day at the actual job site and been doing ok. But today I was either putting too much solder, not putting enough solder on the heel of the leaded component, or not making the lead part discernible. Hopefully I get better.
@@FSUOSU25 It does take some practice. It's easier to add a little more than to remove it. If you're putting too much maybe they may have a smaller size solder you can use.
Good job, I have been soldering for 48 years, and these tips are great to get the new people started, I learned in high school in my electronics 1 class, and this is what I was taught, except for the ventilation, we did not care back then.
You must also be a child of the 60's like me.. I learned soldering, brazing, and welding in an 8th grade metals shop class.. Been doing it as a hobby ever since..
Everyone else was over-explaining how to solder. I learned more from you being straightforward and simple than from the other 8 or so vids where the people were bloviating and showing off how much they knew. Great vid! 🎉
I'm new to this, and I was having a heck of a time! This man is to the point, knowledgeable, and experienced! He made all the difference for me! Thank you!
I've started to learn so this moment and your instructions and tips were perfectly clear and understandable. I highly appreciate the time you took to help beginners such as myself.
Great tips, all of which I've learned the hard way. My favorite one is high heat quickly, not low heat slowly, escpecially when soldering aluminum wire. If one wants to get into soldering, I'd suggest to get a rework station. It doesn't have to be a real high priced one, x-tronics 4000 series is a real good unit for the price and very reliable. Learning to use a hot air gun could prove to be just as valuable as learning to solder... they go hand in hand in this field.
A big thank you. This is the best 6 minutes I have spent on the internet. I have looked at other postings on this issue. The others waster time talking about other subjects.
You are very knowledgeable, not like a lot of the people who post on RUclips. Thanks for the soldering tips as I have not been pre doping my wire ends before doing the actual job.
WOW i just start soldering kit for hobby and i learn so much in 5 min. thats just make me like more this facinating new hobby.thank you , really appreciate
Been soldering for a few years and came across this video. This is such a great video and perfect for getting a crash course in soldering! I never knew the fumes were toxic at all so I'm glad I decided to check this out, awesome tips!
I am a beginner trying to learn some basic techniques..My initial approach was to just buy a soldering iron and go to it Well, I keep getting it wrong so it's time to actually LEARN the right way. Wow. This is the most helpful instructional video I've seen.Thank you.
I'd been trying to properly solder wires to the heatbed of my 3d printer for like two hours when I found this video. After watching and using these tips, got it on the very next try. Thank you!
Great video. Saved to my favs playlist. As an amateur electronics enthusiast I have been doing a lot of things wrong that just made everything harder. Even if it worked it definitely looked bad and I even doubted how long it would last or how well it would perform. These tips have given me a lot more confidence and helped me increase my quality and speed.
I worked in a soldering factory for a few years. We used rosin core Kester ,the standard stuff. We didn't use soldering paste like I was instructed. We did on occasion use liquid flux when we used old oxidized inventory. At home I use rosin core and dip my tip in paste before every third or fourth cleaning wipe of the sponge. Works great. BTW, factory soldering is done in a very different way than "the right way". The iron is held in a jig in many cases, one moves the parts and solder instead. Speed and good connection not pretty. Speed, excellent connection AND pretty get a raise !
Nice... Thanks again! Heats little high from what I was told. 650 f has always been good for me But your experience is far better than mine. I'll try higher heat next time.
This is what all instructional videos should be like. It was quick, clear, knowledgeable, and valuable. The visual examples were good and matched what you were saying in the audio. Now show me how to solder tabs onto a very small lithium coin battery. It's a 1216.
I think the two most important hints for me are high temp for short time (versus the opposite) and heating the pad rather than the solder. I guess it seems obvious in hindsight but good to have that reinforced. I work with JFETs and other sensitive discrete audio gear so this is key.
Hello, I know it’s been a while since you posted this video. I’m just getting into soldering. Your tips were point on and to the point. Very clear explanation. I very much appreciate this video. I jumped all in and bought a hot air/soldering iron/ bolt meter station. I repair electronics but have lost so much business because the lack of soldering knowledge. You’ve explained your team tips perfect. However you left one very important detail out. Being a person with bad eyes I know I’ll need to purchase something like jewelers glasses. But what you’re wearing looks like they work really well. What are they called and where might I purchase them? Thank you so much for your awesome video! You have a new sub!
Thank you for clear and to the point tips. I'm a single mom and I would usually ask my dad or grandpa how to do it, but now since they've passed on it's nice to find someone like you to help! Thanks again!🌴
Some more tips 1) there is nothing like excess flux, even if your solder wire is fluxcore use external flux 2) if solder joint is not shiny reflow it , it will break on worst possible time ( thats where flux comes handy ) 3) pay extra attention to ground pads they will suck all the heat because of the area and produce cold joints
Awesome tips! I just started soldering a few weeks ago and I wonder why I did not pick up this skill years ago. Thank you for the tips they where very helpful!
I'd like to add that it is important to use good quality solder. I bought two different spools of solder on Amazon that were junk, didn't flow well into braided wires, then bought some Kester, wow what a huge improvement. Also on large wires it is good to flatten braided wire then solder onto a large pad so it makes contact with a larger surface area thus able to transfer more current plus be a stronger physical connection.
Thanks for the tip on pre-solldering the wire and the pad~! I'm getting into Arduino and am pretty lousy at soldering, and I'm sure to put these tips to work~!
I'm surprised that people are saying there is bad advice here. I solder tiny crap under a microscope pretty much all the time and pretty much everything I heard here is perfectly good. The only somewhat "bad" advice I heard was the technique you suggested for doing battery wires: tinning the wire, tinning the pad, then shoving the tinned wire into the molten solder on the pad. I put "bad" in quotes because it's not necessarily bad advice but it could stand to have a little "BUT..." at the end. As long as your solder is good and it has a nice, long-lasting rosin-core (like yours does) this technique is perfectly fine. If there is still some usable rosin left over from when you tinned the pad, that leftover rosin will ensure a proper joint forms when you push the tinned wire in. However, a lot of rosin core solders don't have quite the same longevity with their rosin. On a lot of cheaper ones (or even very old ones), the rosin burns up so quickly that what little is left over is just not usable. So in these cases, where there is very little leftover rosin or whatever is left is too burned up to use, additional flux would be a necessity. Flux pens and tubes are sold specifically for this kind of soldering, but if your solder has a good rosin-core I can definitely understand why you wouldn't feel the need to ever use extra flux. All-around this video has a lot of solid advice, definitely better advice than what I've seen in lots of other soldering videos. I suppose the only other nitpick would be the approval of conical tips. Personally I am not a fan of conical tips, but everyone has their own favorite tips and as long as it works for you that's all that matters. To anyone reading this, pick the tips you're most comfortable working with and don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong. They make different tips for lots of reasons, because different tips will be needed for different jobs, and it's up to you to develop your own comfort with your tips and how you will end up using them.
Great tips. One thing I do is use heat sinks on the wire to keep the solder from wicking up underneath the insulation of the wire. Good job. And as someone mentioned, you got it done in 5:45. Straight to the point! Thanks.
Great tips, dude!!! 😊 I made my own fume extractor a while back with 2 PC coolers, a plastic box (one of those used in kitchens, really, for food) and a piece of activated carbon filter (one of those used for aquarium). Works great, I put a DC jack, on/off switch... But now I'm finding it to be too big for my table. 😕 Anyway, I used 2 120mm PC coolers, so... Maybe I should make a newer and smaller one. 😊
One huge thing I might have to disagree here coming from personal experience. Before I only relied on rosin core solder however I realized sometimes I wasn't just soldering right. Please, no matter what solder you have, get some separate flux. If you're soldering an SMD component, a great method is to place some solder on your tip and then touch it on the target component and the board. If you don't have separate flux, the solder that's on your tip will not have flux at all and the solder will not transfer over to the component and board. Apply some flux on the component, apply some solder on the tip and touch it and watch as the solder automatically flow over to the component and the board.7
@@FlightClubFPV Try with SMD components. place a little bit of solder on the tip of the iron. place the component in the correct position and i would like to see you make it join.
Thank you so much for these tips, I was attempting to make some RCA interconnects and was having a big problem with my soldering. Now that I watched your video, I see where I was going wrong.
Out of all of the videos I just watched, this is the best so far. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, whoever doesn't like it just keep moving and stop criticizing people.
The thumbnail is what made me watch your video. Just kidding. Honestly though, great tutorial and thank you for taking the time to record, edit and post it. Cheers brother
Yep, it’s oxidized, overcooked solder. Flux can help to an extent, but if the solder is too far gone, it has to be removed and replaced with fresh solder.
Thank you. Thank you so very much. I'm a fresh beginner, but have been keen on studying. I have a feel for it, I just got a much better solder iron station and it will be my first time, with a better iron to regain the feeling of soldering with a nice bubble shine to it. You actually helped me put all the pieces together. I watched videos on proper settings and you sure made it make sense, not to stay on a print board for too long on high heat. And you also said it's better to solder fast so pieces don't melt. Yup. By the way. I have the same glasses you have in this video. 👍👍👌👌👌
I have some arguments, and some additional advice for ROHS compliant work. Yes, tin every surface. Yes, clean and tin your iron before every use. Yes, reduce the amount of time the soldering iron is applied to as little as possible. But for the people working with (or who will soon be working with) ROHS compliant solder under powered microscopes, as someone who has worked on prototype bomb disposal robot parts and soldered RF aircraft connectors, you need to be running the lowest heat you can operate smoothly with, and fluxing everything; You need to approach this with a very different mindset. - First lets expand a little bit on cleaning your iron. You should clean and re-tin the tip of your iron before and after every application, and before putting it away; A good way to think about it is that every time you let up off the board, you should get into the habit of quickly cleaning, shocking and retinning your iron. Applying solder to the iron before putting it away will protect the surface of the iron from oxidizing while it is cooling down. Labs will expect this last bit from you in order to prolong the life of their tips, and can even be something that leads to your termination if you don't do it. Also, there are people who like rosin core, and people who like no-clean flux. Anyone who has ever had to conformal coat a PCB usually leans towards no-clean flux applicator pens as rosin tends to leave a horrible mess on the board that can be very time consuming to clean, particularly in densely populated areas of the board. plus, no-clean flux pens tend to spread flux out more, protecting other elements and surfaces from oxidation when you are working quickly in one area of the board. There are solder wires that come cored with no-clean flux, in addition to the no-clean flux pens. The second thing you should be aware of is that ROHS (no-lead) solder is much more difficult to work with; It has a slightly higher melting point, and takes to reheating and high heat very poorly. If you mess up with ROHS solder, you should remove it with a fluxed solder braid, or you will end up with a giant clump of metal that will NOT wet to the iron no matter the heat. This ends up being a trap for noobs because they try to keep the iron on for several seconds trying to get the solder to re-wet to either the iron or the component and end up destroying components or burning out pads. You can prevent this by having just enough heat to melt the ROHS solder to a cleaned iron after approximately 1 second of application without pressure. You want enough heat to wet the solder to the surface, anything beyond that is an unnecessary risk and increases oxidation, your risk of destroying the component and/or the surface of what your soldering. For me this is 347 deg. Celsius for most applications. Less is more, and there is really no need to ramp up the heat beyond that. Do you want to go 2 seconds faster per board, or burn out a $8,000 prototype FLIR board? Your choice. Third, if you are operating with ROHS solder, you HAVE TO flux everything. Always. The flux inside of solder core wire evaporates very quickly, and there is a small window of use for it in lead applications. In ROHS applications? That does not exist. Flux the surface of each component to tin it, then flux where the iron will be applied, and then wherever you have to remove solder; flux the braid and flux the surface. If you did something wrong, 90% of the time its because you did not apply enough flux. Adding more flux greatly reduces your risk of failure and takes 5 seconds to do. - Now, lets get into some of my own personal recommendations for the newbros (Both ROHS and lead): When you buy solder wire, buy small gauge; its easy to add solder to an iron, not so easy to take it off in the correct amounts. Look up a document for IPC Class 3 soldering standards and research it. Then buy some cheap through-hole breadboards, some smd practice boards, flux, some wire (solid and stranded types) and fluxed solder braid. Practice soldering batches of different wires to every single through hole on the boards and use your multimeter to check resistance in each wire after you do each hole. After you go through all your boards, extract all the wires with the braid and iron. I too, will advocate for the conical tip for precision work. There are also curved conical tips, that will create a kind of solder-reservoir in the curve, as well as concave tips that can be used for faster application of solder across the densely packed leads of various SMD packages. In fact, there are several kinds of awesome soldering tips and tools that you should look into before buying a unit. If you have a lab with a powered microscope available at your school or place of work for soldering, practicing under it will give you a greater degree of precision in your hand control, definitely do it. By the time you finish with 10-15 breadboards, you should have a marked improvement for solder application, heat, method, speed and consistency. Practice makes perfect. Happy soldering!
1st off I know I do not have the experience you have. I did take a class on soldering. where we are soldering tiny fuses, repair a bridge connector, diodes, that look as I describe "the size of a backpack for flies." When it comes to me soldering a multi-tooth processor, well I sort of bombed on that one! I do have the rosin and when I solder to a flat surface I don't need flux. I do see it when I use flux on a small stretch of wire and the solder just soaks into the wire like a sponge. When I don't use the flux on the wire. It does solder the wire, but it takes a bit longer and it doesn't fill it up as well. when I introduce the wire I used flux on to the connector. I do dab a tiny bit of solder on the connector with no flux. Like you said, "not everything requires flux," which I agree with 100%! and it is I can clearly see when it all heats back up, you can see the solder just absorb the access that is on the connector into the wire. this is just a balance after I figured out between the wire and the connector. (This of course is after a few hundred attempts! :) When I use the wire end that I didn't use flux and just the rosin solder on. I will get that connection, but I can clearly see the rosin solder doesn't have the same effect of absorption into the wire. When it comes to using flux or not using flux on a multiple connector like a processor, I honestly do not know? I just don't have the microscope or the chips to practice with. I am a big fan myself of the cone tip. I did find it more difficult using it to solder on 12 gauge and above wire, without swapping to the more flat connector. (What is your take on this?) I am not very good at mixing 2 wires together. We didn't really do that in class and we focused on very tiny parts which I am sure you already know. Any chance you can do a battery cable for us out of a car? I'd really like to see a better way to do this! My soldering gun doesn't reach 850° F or C. I think it tops out at 450° F? I have a heat gun that does 480° C. Thanks for the tips and tricks I always like to learn new techniques so, I can become much better then I am! :P
I never soldered much because I sucked at it. After watching this video, I can now solder like a champ! I've repaired my own Mavic 2 Pro drone twice after crashing it, and having to replace/solder legs on it...saved a TON of money! Since my dalliance is only with the occasional (I hope) drone crash, I still don't solder very often. BUT, I keep this video bookmarked for review EVERY time I need a refresher.
If you have enough experience you can use the wedge tip on everything...it just has more surface area to transfer heat with. Hakko and Weller as well as the TS100 or TS80 are the only ones I would recommend. DONT BUY CHEAP WAL MART OR RADIO SHACK $10 IRONS!!!
Garrett Johnson agreed. I used to use the cheapo irons but found myself buying a new one almost every time I had to solder something. I finally bought a ts100 and a few tips and use it on everything now.
Agreed on the chisel tips. I was in a soldering contest a while ago where they made me use their crappy irons. I was originally assigned a conical tip but traded it out for somebody else's chisel tip. I was also challenging myself with this new tip because it was a 1/4 inch wide. I managed to solder down to 0201 components with it and got 3rd place. Info about the contest as well as the PCB I soldered: hackaday.com/2018/08/02/smd-soldering-challenge-lands-at-def-con/
i am about to use a soldering gun for the first time.. and alot of the tips you said make the most sense out of other videos i have watched.. thanks for the detailed help
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For people saying I'm giving out bad information, these 10 (11 tips on the website) tips are based off speed, efficiency and results from soldering for the past 20 years. I have a degree in electronics engineering and my first job out of college was repairing surface mount components under a microscope at Nokia. My job for 3 years was soldering daily.
I can comfortably say I've built over 100 quads. When you've been soldering for this long you find out what works and what doesn't.
Yes in school they teach you to use flux but we all know what is taught in school is not always practical in real life. I'm not saying don't use flux, it's just not needed. Use a rosin core solder, it has flux in it.
As for the tip, I'm just saying the cone tip is a more versatile tip. Yes, a wedge tip is great for batteries and motor wires but there are some jobs it can't do. Like if you're trying to replace a surface mount component on a vtx or flight controller. Try replacing a microprocessor chip with a wedge tip, you'll end up with solder blobs everywhere and kill the chip. A cone tip doesn't excel for any job but it can do all jobs.
Very good tips. Thanks!
Good advice from a veteran in this field is always valuable thanks alot.
Not sure what anyone is complaining about. All the tips in this video were pretty dead on. Obviously if typically working with heavier wires or large metal contacts such as Deans connectors or even MOSFET heat sinks, it might make more sense to use a wedge. For this type of work, a cone tip makes sense. As for the heat, like you said, more heat for a short period of time is better than less heat for a long period of time. The people arguing have been taught wrong. Also never understood the obsession with flux. It simply isn't necessary for most jobs. Only thing I would add to this video is info on tinning your tip and making contact with the tinned wire itself before pulling away from a pad.
Good stuff. I write work instructions for electronics assembly, BSEE with 35 years manufacturing experience. Rather than recommend a single tip for soldering I would say size the tip to the job. The large wedge tip will transfer more heat to large wires faster than the small conical tip thus reducing the dwell time on the contact. I would also add a tip, use liquid flux. The main job for flux is to remove oxides on the metal surface to be soldered, when soldering to dull surfaces like old copper contacts or wires adding additional liquid flux will make the job faster and cleaner. This is a pro tip that most hobbyist will never discover on their own. The small bottle linked below will allow pin point application of liquid flux.
www.zoro.com/plato-flux-dispenser-2-oz-needle-tip-fd-2/i/G5391321/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAiAsoviBRAoEiwATm8OYG9Mb23RXDgbKh09bc9rnGa31155n5jT6k8qqC2iENXC0Sl8lllS2xoCkPsQAvD_BwE
Absolutely , experience in soldering gives you the idea what u really need and what is optional ,
I also trained my junior how to solder and they were like ,.....we learned from book to use flux ...why are u not using ....
All great tips!
Tip 11: Practice a LOT and practice on scrap electronics. Scrap and broken parts are plentiful! I found that because i sometimes go for long periods of time between solder work, it really helps to do a little practice before working on something, just to freshen up my skills.
Where do you get scrap without dumpster diving?
@@DavefromCA2023 If you cant find old or broken electronics from people you know, go to a Goodwill (or other thrift shop) and you can buy stuff for just a couple bucks. You can always practice with just a couple pieces of wire. Another option is to buy a soldering project online.
@@DavefromCA2023 BTW, dumpster diving cab yield some great treasures!
This suggestion is really good. I normally go months between having to solder things and you're right the first one always kinda sucks so the first one from now on will be on a test bed
that is a great tip for someone like myself who is getting back into soldering manufacturing
Liked the way you talk. Simple fast
Me too
portable
Still watched it at 1.5 speed
Efficiency. Nobody take this as racist but it seems to be a common value among most Asian cultures.
@@Drckarvo It is racial/cultural but I don't think it's racist, it's true. Just go hang out with some other ethnic family groups (Fuck I hate being PC) you'll find some amazing differences. Many are to be envied. Work ethic and accomplishment can seem like a harsh way to raise, but goal setting and setting realistic expectations of your children and family, seems pretty logical and compassionate to me. Also, I talk, a lot. Feel free to ignore. :) Peace and thanks for the intelligent and concise video. Brevity and accuracy, everyone can appreciate. Cheers to Flight Club. :)
I saved this in my favourites a couple years back. Today I'm watching it as I'm about to solder.
Thanks!
Very well done young man. I'm 66 years old and you were fast, yet accurate. Thanks
@@Terra101 “girlfriend”
@@vergodagoat Sorry, boyfriend.
Hey Richard any tips you have to share. I'm just starting out at a job. I definitely like it. Just want to do well at it. Anyway take care brother.
@@FSUOSU25 I wish I had some wise info for you, but the top ten is excellent. I have a motorcycle repair shop and I do not solder on a daily basis. When I do, it needs to be done correctly and survive the vibrations and abuse. I am always open to new ideas and easier methods, I’m a old dog who does learn new tricks! What is your new? I hope it is something you will enjoy, that is info I do have experience about. Good luck.
@@richardbartlett4075 that's good feedback I appreciate that. This new job I'm doing involved soldering components onto circuit boards. I'm really liking it. I just want to do well because it pays pretty decent. I have a great mentor and the rest of the crew are great. I'll keep you posted along the way. Thanks again and I that's cool you have a motorcycle repair shop. Take care.
Thank you. I literally watched your video and used a Radio Shack soldering iron I bought over 10 years but never used. I repaired a lighter car plug. I also had rosin core solder I bought with the soldering iron. Thank you. Thank you.
Not a RC guy but this is very helpful for anyone doing electronic work.
It has been decades since I was in electronics and electrical shop at high school. Now I am going to do some fine, small wire soldering to install a car audio system. I am so thankful that I came across your video. These ten tips to improve my skills are most definitely going to result in my success with this project that I am doing. Thanks so very much for your easy to understand instruction.
High heat low amount of time is the best advice I’ve heard in years
TO MOST ITS JUST COMMON SENSE OR U GET SOMEONE THAT KNOWS SOLDERING TO DO IT FOR YOU. IF U NEED THAT ADVICE BETTER ADVICE WUD BE GET A PRO TO DO IT AS U WILL ONLY HURT URSELF
@@odoggow8157 First of all there's a button called "caps lock" I think you should try and press it just once, besides that, shut the fuck up, the way you respond to people makes you seem extremely questionable and insecure, so just stop my dude
@@odoggow8157 Your advice to "get someone who knows what they're doing to do it" is quite frankly, GARBAGE. I have learned many skills (including soldering) simply by trial and error. Could I have saved myself a lot of frustration by handing my child's toy off to someone who knew what they were doing? Absolutely! But what would my child have learned from that? Not that it's ok to try new things even when you're scared, not that just because you fail the first time doesn't mean you won't succeed your 2nd (or in my case 3rd) time, not that just cause it's "a man's job" doesn't mean a woman can't do it and vice versa?
And honestly what would I have gotten from doing that? Not the sense of accomplishment from learning something new, not the feeling of pride you get bc your child thinks you're a super hero for fixing their toy...but I would've ended up with yet another bill that as a single mother of 2 I simply can't afford...so take your don't try this at home advice and shove it up your a$$.
@@odoggow8157 I always destroy a ton of shit when I'm learning something new, there's ton of electronics thrown away everywhere
simple and straight to the point. Im a beginner and already you have helped me fix all the mistakes i was making.
Loved your video. Zero BS, straight to the point, great tips. Too bad more youtubers don't follow your example. Thanks!
Just a few tips: 1. the flux melts first cleaning oxidation so the solder can wet the pads when it melts. 2. I would use the larger tip for the larger pads and wire. 3. Don't mash on your solder wick. This is where you could use some external flux. Flux the pad and the solder wick, melt your solder and put the end of the solder wick into the melted solder. No pulled pads and it will wick really fast. Other than that I liked all your info regarding tools and equipment. Not bad info; it will get the job done. And, btw, I'm a master soldering instructor, been doing it for 40 years.
thanks
Hi Marilyn. I started a job that involves soldering. I like it, but I want to make sure I do well enough to keep. It's my third day at the actual job site and been doing ok. But today I was either putting too much solder, not putting enough solder on the heel of the leaded component, or not making the lead part discernible. Hopefully I get better.
@@FSUOSU25 It does take some practice. It's easier to add a little more than to remove it. If you're putting too much maybe they may have a smaller size solder you can use.
@@mclawrence00 ok thanks will keep that in mind. Take care.
Thank you for your video good tips are always appreciated.
Stay well
Ash from Scotland 🏴
Good job, I have been soldering for 48 years, and these tips are great to get the new people started, I learned in high school in my electronics 1 class, and this is what I was taught, except for the ventilation, we did not care back then.
haha!
You must also be a child of the 60's like me.. I learned soldering, brazing, and welding in an 8th grade metals shop class.. Been doing it as a hobby ever since..
The fumes from sold really aren't that bad, it's flux that will fuck you up.
@@nottobay6768 I need explanation
@@FreezyPop The smell is just way more aggressive that's all I know about the differences, lol.
This dude set me straight, awsome directions and 2 the point...1 of the best Y.T. videos ever
Everyone else was over-explaining how to solder. I learned more from you being straightforward and simple than from the other 8 or so vids where the people were bloviating and showing off how much they knew. Great vid! 🎉
I'm new to this, and I was having a heck of a time! This man is to the point, knowledgeable, and experienced! He made all the difference for me! Thank you!
I've started to learn so this moment and your instructions and tips were perfectly clear and understandable. I highly appreciate the time you took to help beginners such as myself.
Thanks!
Great tips, all of which I've learned the hard way. My favorite one is high heat quickly, not low heat slowly, escpecially when soldering aluminum wire. If one wants to get into soldering, I'd suggest to get a rework station. It doesn't have to be a real high priced one, x-tronics 4000 series is a real good unit for the price and very reliable. Learning to use a hot air gun could prove to be just as valuable as learning to solder... they go hand in hand in this field.
Well done! I have to do a bunch of soldering today and I've never done it before. I feel alot more confident now!
A big thank you.
This is the best 6 minutes I have spent on the internet.
I have looked at other postings on this issue.
The others waster time talking about other subjects.
loved the fact you didn't drag it out straight to the point and quick examples.......Thank You
I've been soldering for 20+ years, and you've helped me greatly. Thanks for the lead to that nice new iron too!
Really good tips. Should be shared in classes for those that teach.
You are very knowledgeable, not like a lot of the people who post on RUclips.
Thanks for the soldering tips as I have not been pre doping my wire ends before doing the actual job.
This is the best soldering instructional video I have ever seen. It's clear, quick and comprehensive. 5 stars!
Thank you for this good tips
WOW i just start soldering kit for hobby and i learn so much in 5 min. thats just make me like more this facinating new hobby.thank you , really appreciate
Been soldering for a few years and came across this video. This is such a great video and perfect for getting a crash course in soldering! I never knew the fumes were toxic at all so I'm glad I decided to check this out, awesome tips!
I am a beginner trying to learn some basic techniques..My initial approach was to just buy a soldering iron and go to it Well, I keep getting it wrong so it's time to actually LEARN the right way. Wow. This is the most helpful instructional video I've seen.Thank you.
This is the best soldering video I've seen yet. You showed everything we need, nothing we don't. You explained everything we need, nothing we don't.
I'd been trying to properly solder wires to the heatbed of my 3d printer for like two hours when I found this video. After watching and using these tips, got it on the very next try. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Great video. Saved to my favs playlist. As an amateur electronics enthusiast I have been doing a lot of things wrong that just made everything harder. Even if it worked it definitely looked bad and I even doubted how long it would last or how well it would perform. These tips have given me a lot more confidence and helped me increase my quality and speed.
This video just opened my eyes and my mind.
Strange way to reach Nirvana 😆🤣🤣
This video is brilliant, short and to the point, I learned a lot in a short time, thank you so much.
Thanks man 850F turned out to be the perfect temp for me with my 18v Ryobi soldering iron. So easy now!
I worked in a soldering factory for a few years. We used rosin core Kester ,the standard stuff. We didn't use soldering paste like I was instructed. We did on occasion use liquid flux when we used old oxidized inventory. At home I use rosin core and dip my tip in paste before every third or fourth cleaning wipe of the sponge. Works great.
BTW, factory soldering is done in a very different way than "the right way". The iron is held in a jig in many cases, one moves the parts and solder instead. Speed and good connection not pretty. Speed, excellent connection AND pretty get a raise !
Nice... Thanks again!
Heats little high from what I was told. 650 f has always been good for me
But your experience is far better than mine. I'll try higher heat next time.
At the factory we were told To Hot Is Good. We did not tin parts, only high heat and rosin core Kester lead/tin 60/40.
Loved the video man. Very professional , accurate, and simplified. Great job thank you.
I like this guy! Don't know much about this stuff, but he breaks it down fast enough to get you the gist without filling you with needless crap.
Just what the world needs, the right info, done very well. I've been doing electrial for 60 years, get 4 the newbees. As well as us oldies.😊
This is what all instructional videos should be like. It was quick, clear, knowledgeable, and valuable. The visual examples were good and matched what you were saying in the audio. Now show me how to solder tabs onto a very small lithium coin battery. It's a 1216.
I think the two most important hints for me are high temp for short time (versus the opposite) and heating the pad rather than the solder. I guess it seems obvious in hindsight but good to have that reinforced. I work with JFETs and other sensitive discrete audio gear so this is key.
Me too. On certain items, I also use extra flux to get the solder flowing quickly or to preserve insulation etc.
Hello, I know it’s been a while since you posted this video. I’m just getting into soldering. Your tips were point on and to the point. Very clear explanation. I very much appreciate this video. I jumped all in and bought a hot air/soldering iron/ bolt meter station. I repair electronics but have lost so much business because the lack of soldering knowledge. You’ve explained your team tips perfect. However you left one very important detail out. Being a person with bad eyes I know I’ll need to purchase something like jewelers glasses. But what you’re wearing looks like they work really well. What are they called and where might I purchase them? Thank you so much for your awesome video! You have a new sub!
Thank you for clear and to the point tips. I'm a single mom and I would usually ask my dad or grandpa how to do it, but now since they've passed on it's nice to find someone like you to help! Thanks again!🌴
This is THE VIDEO that I tell others to find if they are new or haven't soldered in a while. Thank you for making this!!!
Best video so far, straight to the point , I wish I’d seen this before I worked on my DJI now ima go back and fix it thanks to you bro
Some more tips
1) there is nothing like excess flux, even if your solder wire is fluxcore use external flux
2) if solder joint is not shiny reflow it , it will break on worst possible time ( thats where flux comes handy )
3) pay extra attention to ground pads they will suck all the heat because of the area and produce cold joints
Awesome tips! I just started soldering a few weeks ago and I wonder why I did not pick up this skill years ago. Thank you for the tips they where very helpful!
one the best teachings Ive ever lied eyes on RUclips. thank you do much . beginner at soldering 😊
Thank you for this video. You speak clear, fast enough, and you do not fill up video time with meaningless verbiage. Thank you!
The best tip was right on your face, the magnifying visor is a tremendous help with small soldering.
All right, it's 2:39 in the middle of the night! Time to get some soldering done!
I'd like to add that it is important to use good quality solder. I bought two different spools of solder on Amazon that were junk, didn't flow well into braided wires, then bought some Kester, wow what a huge improvement. Also on large wires it is good to flatten braided wire then solder onto a large pad so it makes contact with a larger surface area thus able to transfer more current plus be a stronger physical connection.
This video is awesome. I was engaged the entire time. Thank you
Pre-tin - a big difference. Thank you!!!
Thank you much, very understandable , short and to the point. i'm ready to start soldering.
Really appreciate this video as I’ll be doing my first solder in the coming days and needed to understand certain things before I start. Thank you
Thanks for the tip on pre-solldering the wire and the pad~! I'm getting into Arduino and am pretty lousy at soldering, and I'm sure to put these tips to work~!
glad i could help!
You put 2 Ls in soldering and nobody pronounces any of them!
I'm just learning how to solder; this video is a GOLDMINE. thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Beautiful, I'm taking an 8-hour soldering class next Saturday and this will help me prepare, thanks
Excellent tips. Been using a £5 soldering iron for a few years now. Going to buy that weller iron. Thanks
r
I mean if its not broken why buy a new one?
I love soldering.. it's therapeutic to me, as a matter of fact I enjoy building almost as much as flying almost.. lol great video Mike your the man..
i know right, it's fun!
Me too I find it relaxing to do
Thanks!! I just bought a soldering iron to save money over someone replacing my guitar pickups .
I'm surprised that people are saying there is bad advice here. I solder tiny crap under a microscope pretty much all the time and pretty much everything I heard here is perfectly good. The only somewhat "bad" advice I heard was the technique you suggested for doing battery wires: tinning the wire, tinning the pad, then shoving the tinned wire into the molten solder on the pad. I put "bad" in quotes because it's not necessarily bad advice but it could stand to have a little "BUT..." at the end. As long as your solder is good and it has a nice, long-lasting rosin-core (like yours does) this technique is perfectly fine. If there is still some usable rosin left over from when you tinned the pad, that leftover rosin will ensure a proper joint forms when you push the tinned wire in.
However, a lot of rosin core solders don't have quite the same longevity with their rosin. On a lot of cheaper ones (or even very old ones), the rosin burns up so quickly that what little is left over is just not usable. So in these cases, where there is very little leftover rosin or whatever is left is too burned up to use, additional flux would be a necessity. Flux pens and tubes are sold specifically for this kind of soldering, but if your solder has a good rosin-core I can definitely understand why you wouldn't feel the need to ever use extra flux.
All-around this video has a lot of solid advice, definitely better advice than what I've seen in lots of other soldering videos. I suppose the only other nitpick would be the approval of conical tips. Personally I am not a fan of conical tips, but everyone has their own favorite tips and as long as it works for you that's all that matters. To anyone reading this, pick the tips you're most comfortable working with and don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong. They make different tips for lots of reasons, because different tips will be needed for different jobs, and it's up to you to develop your own comfort with your tips and how you will end up using them.
Love it!! Awesome instructional video in plain English!! Love it!
Excellent job!! My new hobby
I’ve got the same soldering iron!
I TOO STOLE IT FROM SCHOOL
Lmfao
Excellent advice. I know this is going to immediately improve my soldering. Thanks
Great tips. One thing I do is use heat sinks on the wire to keep the solder from wicking up underneath the insulation of the wire. Good job. And as someone mentioned, you got it done in 5:45. Straight to the point! Thanks.
These are great tips and very helpful for my ARRIS M700 custom build. Tinning, high heat, and low time of contact is key. Thanks!
Clear, concise, and no bs. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for the gases tip, I wouldn’t have known otherwise!
Awosome tips for beginners tnx bro🤗
Thank you Tyler Durden it was very helpful
Thanks bro simple and straightforward you helped me more than those 10 minutes then anyone else did in the last year soldering
Thanks for the info. I haven’t done much soldering in years and have to reattach the tonearm wires in my turntable. This is very helpful.
Great tips, dude!!! 😊
I made my own fume extractor a while back with 2 PC coolers, a plastic box (one of those used in kitchens, really, for food) and a piece of activated carbon filter (one of those used for aquarium). Works great, I put a DC jack, on/off switch... But now I'm finding it to be too big for my table. 😕
Anyway, I used 2 120mm PC coolers, so... Maybe I should make a newer and smaller one. 😊
One huge thing I might have to disagree here coming from personal experience. Before I only relied on rosin core solder however I realized sometimes I wasn't just soldering right. Please, no matter what solder you have, get some separate flux. If you're soldering an SMD component, a great method is to place some solder on your tip and then touch it on the target component and the board. If you don't have separate flux, the solder that's on your tip will not have flux at all and the solder will not transfer over to the component and board. Apply some flux on the component, apply some solder on the tip and touch it and watch as the solder automatically flow over to the component and the board.7
i don't get it, why people insist on using flux. i haven't used flux in 20 years
@@FlightClubFPV Try with SMD components. place a little bit of solder on the tip of the iron. place the component in the correct position and i would like to see you make it join.
Might be an experience and/or skill thing, but I agree that life is easier with added flux, at least for me.
Great tips Dude!
i loved the glasses thanks for the tips.
Thank you so much for these tips, I was attempting to make some RCA interconnects and was having a big problem with my soldering. Now that I watched your video, I see where I was going wrong.
Out of all of the videos I just watched, this is the best so far. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, whoever doesn't like it just keep moving and stop criticizing people.
Awesome
The thumbnail is what made me watch your video.
Just kidding. Honestly though, great tutorial and thank you for taking the time to record, edit and post it.
Cheers brother
the thumbnail was pretty funny lmao
Agree. I watched it because of the thumbnail as well and I am glad I did.
plz tell me what a thumbnail is
@@bobbob-nj3ck "Thumbnail" is the picture you see before watching the video. Sort of like an advertisement poster for a movie.
@@cri8tor thx
Solder spikes are usually because the flux you used burned away, and the molten metal is sticky. Add a bit more flux and they disappear.
Yep, it’s oxidized, overcooked solder. Flux can help to an extent, but if the solder is too far gone, it has to be removed and replaced with fresh solder.
Good tips. Never had a headach from soldering. Smelled the flux for several days though.
Flux can also be used to clean the soldering iron.
Thank you. Thank you so very much. I'm a fresh beginner, but have been
keen on studying. I have a feel for it, I just got a much better solder iron station
and it will be my first time, with a better iron to regain the feeling of soldering
with a nice bubble shine to it. You actually helped me put all the pieces together.
I watched videos on proper settings and you sure made it make sense, not to stay
on a print board for too long on high heat. And you also said it's better to solder fast
so pieces don't melt. Yup. By the way. I have the same glasses you have in this video.
👍👍👌👌👌
I have some arguments, and some additional advice for ROHS compliant work.
Yes, tin every surface. Yes, clean and tin your iron before every use. Yes, reduce the amount of time the soldering iron is applied to as little as possible.
But for the people working with (or who will soon be working with) ROHS compliant solder under powered microscopes, as someone who has worked on prototype bomb disposal robot parts and soldered RF aircraft connectors, you need to be running the lowest heat you can operate smoothly with, and fluxing everything; You need to approach this with a very different mindset.
-
First lets expand a little bit on cleaning your iron. You should clean and re-tin the tip of your iron before and after every application, and before putting it away; A good way to think about it is that every time you let up off the board, you should get into the habit of quickly cleaning, shocking and retinning your iron. Applying solder to the iron before putting it away will protect the surface of the iron from oxidizing while it is cooling down. Labs will expect this last bit from you in order to prolong the life of their tips, and can even be something that leads to your termination if you don't do it.
Also, there are people who like rosin core, and people who like no-clean flux. Anyone who has ever had to conformal coat a PCB usually leans towards no-clean flux applicator pens as rosin tends to leave a horrible mess on the board that can be very time consuming to clean, particularly in densely populated areas of the board. plus, no-clean flux pens tend to spread flux out more, protecting other elements and surfaces from oxidation when you are working quickly in one area of the board. There are solder wires that come cored with no-clean flux, in addition to the no-clean flux pens.
The second thing you should be aware of is that ROHS (no-lead) solder is much more difficult to work with; It has a slightly higher melting point, and takes to reheating and high heat very poorly. If you mess up with ROHS solder, you should remove it with a fluxed solder braid, or you will end up with a giant clump of metal that will NOT wet to the iron no matter the heat. This ends up being a trap for noobs because they try to keep the iron on for several seconds trying to get the solder to re-wet to either the iron or the component and end up destroying components or burning out pads.
You can prevent this by having just enough heat to melt the ROHS solder to a cleaned iron after approximately 1 second of application without pressure. You want enough heat to wet the solder to the surface, anything beyond that is an unnecessary risk and increases oxidation, your risk of destroying the component and/or the surface of what your soldering. For me this is 347 deg. Celsius for most applications. Less is more, and there is really no need to ramp up the heat beyond that. Do you want to go 2 seconds faster per board, or burn out a $8,000 prototype FLIR board? Your choice.
Third, if you are operating with ROHS solder, you HAVE TO flux everything. Always. The flux inside of solder core wire evaporates very quickly, and there is a small window of use for it in lead applications. In ROHS applications? That does not exist. Flux the surface of each component to tin it, then flux where the iron will be applied, and then wherever you have to remove solder; flux the braid and flux the surface. If you did something wrong, 90% of the time its because you did not apply enough flux. Adding more flux greatly reduces your risk of failure and takes 5 seconds to do.
-
Now, lets get into some of my own personal recommendations for the newbros (Both ROHS and lead):
When you buy solder wire, buy small gauge; its easy to add solder to an iron, not so easy to take it off in the correct amounts. Look up a document for IPC Class 3 soldering standards and research it. Then buy some cheap through-hole breadboards, some smd practice boards, flux, some wire (solid and stranded types) and fluxed solder braid. Practice soldering batches of different wires to every single through hole on the boards and use your multimeter to check resistance in each wire after you do each hole. After you go through all your boards, extract all the wires with the braid and iron.
I too, will advocate for the conical tip for precision work. There are also curved conical tips, that will create a kind of solder-reservoir in the curve, as well as concave tips that can be used for faster application of solder across the densely packed leads of various SMD packages. In fact, there are several kinds of awesome soldering tips and tools that you should look into before buying a unit. If you have a lab with a powered microscope available at your school or place of work for soldering, practicing under it will give you a greater degree of precision in your hand control, definitely do it.
By the time you finish with 10-15 breadboards, you should have a marked improvement for solder application, heat, method, speed and consistency. Practice makes perfect. Happy soldering!
These are discrepancies that popped into my head as well as he was giving his tips, i wonder if we work at the same place.
1st off I know I do not have the experience you have. I did take a class on soldering. where we are soldering tiny fuses, repair a bridge connector, diodes, that look as I describe "the size of a backpack for flies." When it comes to me soldering a multi-tooth processor, well I sort of bombed on that one! I do have the rosin and when I solder to a flat surface I don't need flux. I do see it when I use flux on a small stretch of wire and the solder just soaks into the wire like a sponge. When I don't use the flux on the wire. It does solder the wire, but it takes a bit longer and it doesn't fill it up as well. when I introduce the wire I used flux on to the connector. I do dab a tiny bit of solder on the connector with no flux. Like you said, "not everything requires flux," which I agree with 100%! and it is I can clearly see when it all heats back up, you can see the solder just absorb the access that is on the connector into the wire. this is just a balance after I figured out between the wire and the connector. (This of course is after a few hundred attempts! :) When I use the wire end that I didn't use flux and just the rosin solder on. I will get that connection, but I can clearly see the rosin solder doesn't have the same effect of absorption into the wire. When it comes to using flux or not using flux on a multiple connector like a processor, I honestly do not know? I just don't have the microscope or the chips to practice with.
I am a big fan myself of the cone tip. I did find it more difficult using it to solder on 12 gauge and above wire, without swapping to the more flat connector. (What is your take on this?) I am not very good at mixing 2 wires together. We didn't really do that in class and we focused on very tiny parts which I am sure you already know. Any chance you can do a battery cable for us out of a car? I'd really like to see a better way to do this! My soldering gun doesn't reach 850° F or C. I think it tops out at 450° F? I have a heat gun that does 480° C.
Thanks for the tips and tricks I always like to learn new techniques so, I can become much better then I am! :P
Better use flux and then wash with benzin than not use and get bad soldering.
Thanks for this video. I think I’ve been setting my temperature too low.
Thanks. Been soldering 40+ years with issues. Now learning what I missed all those years.
I never soldered much because I sucked at it. After watching this video, I can now solder like a champ! I've repaired my own Mavic 2 Pro drone twice after crashing it, and having to replace/solder legs on it...saved a TON of money!
Since my dalliance is only with the occasional (I hope) drone crash, I still don't solder very often. BUT, I keep this video bookmarked for review EVERY time I need a refresher.
I use my lungs to extract the fumes.
Same lol
Dang me too
If you have enough experience you can use the wedge tip on everything...it just has more surface area to transfer heat with. Hakko and Weller as well as the TS100 or TS80 are the only ones I would recommend. DONT BUY CHEAP WAL MART OR RADIO SHACK $10 IRONS!!!
Garrett Johnson agreed. I used to use the cheapo irons but found myself buying a new one almost every time I had to solder something. I finally bought a ts100 and a few tips and use it on everything now.
Agreed on the chisel tips. I was in a soldering contest a while ago where they made me use their crappy irons. I was originally assigned a conical tip but traded it out for somebody else's chisel tip. I was also challenging myself with this new tip because it was a 1/4 inch wide. I managed to solder down to 0201 components with it and got 3rd place.
Info about the contest as well as the PCB I soldered: hackaday.com/2018/08/02/smd-soldering-challenge-lands-at-def-con/
@@archer4922 just listened to flylife and congrats on winning the dolphin frame 👍
Garrett Johnson thanks man!!!
@@conspiracies1014 Well the problem with cheap irons is they don't get hot enough to complete melt the solder quickly enough...plain and simple.
genius way to control your camera focus ... 2:34
This really helps I been learning how to solder I been watching other videos but none of them helped except this one thank you this really helps
Love it! Short and straight to the point. Always need to watch this before doing a solder job
I learned all this tips by myself... From my mistakes 😅
i am soldering like that with my 14.99 ali expres equipment.
Not for long.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Mike! Anyone doesn't like please make a video and show us your way lol
Very helpful, very good instructions better than many other people.👍👍
i am about to use a soldering gun for the first time.. and alot of the tips you said make the most sense out of other videos i have watched.. thanks for the detailed help