We hope this helps you avoid these salt water pool maintenance mistakes! And if you need more help, grab our free Salt Water Pool Cheat Sheet at www.swimuniversity.com/saltwater 👍
Hello, hope you are well! Quick question: my low salt warning has come on and was wondering if water softener salt is just as good as pool salt? It's half the price where I live so thought its worth the question. I've done a little research and if it's not pure white and pure sodium chlorine not to use but I would rather listen to you. Kind regards Matt. P.s another great video thank you!!!
Cool good but you definitely forgot to mention alkalinity and how important it is when you have a pool heater. You also often mention calcium buildup but did not mention how to remove it. Sorry I don't mean to criticize but it would make for a moral wholes ome video
@@mattgoodwin70 water softener salt (without additives, like stain removers) is exactly the same as pool salt. It comes in crystals and pellets, which while coarser than pool salt granules, dissolve just about as quickly, so who cares! It's certainly not worth 1-1/2 to twice the price.
If I use seawater (which I pump from under the ground, it's technically brackish but it can have a salinity of 4000ppm) Do I still need to use chlorine? Or can I just change the water on a regular basis?
This and your other videos are straight forward and easy to follow. After owning a saltwater pool for nearly ten years now, I believe I know more than the average owner. It is mostly trial and error and you will learn from every mistake you make. The tougher lessons learned the less likely you will forget that scenario in the future. But one thing is for certain. If you want it beautifully clear and balanced, a swimming pool is like a five-year-old child. You can't take your eyes off of it for a second!
Um, everything here was just crazy... shock once a week? wtf is the point of a salt system then.... (not to mention he aint talking about a real shock he's talking about a salt cell that can't keep up with demand and just adding extra chlorine using a package that says "shock") Clean the cell when you close AND open the pool.... Check alk once a MONTH? but check salt after a heavy rain? This is nuts...
Great video! I watched about 15 other videos and this is the first one that seems to have everything in one place in a very short and concise list. I'll be referencing it many times in the future I'm sure.
Great video and very helpful! My pool service company keeps putting chlorine tabs in the pool, which I never understood since it's a salt pool. Letting them go, and taking over myself with the help of this video. Also going to get your cheat sheets. Thank you!!
I just bought a home with a salt water pool. After a week and a half of watching your videos, I think I’ve got a basic understanding of how to take care of it, I’m just more of a hands on learner. Keep the salt water pool for dummies videos coming!
This is great information breaking it down for someone who moved from the city to a home with a SW pool. The pool cleaner we have is probably doing none of this and the info you provided makes it easy to take it on ourselves and probably do a much better job!
Long time pool owner here. Agree with everything except the part about having to shock the pool regularly. If your pool chemistry is fine and the water remains clear algae free there is no need to shock the pool. Only time i shock is when i open and close the pool for the season.
That's great. If you have a pool that doesn't cause you issues and you don't get lots of rain or debris inside, that makes sense you don't need to shock it often.
Shocking helps to remove your combine available chlorine, which is basically just dead chlorine. Depending on the pool, and how much usage it gets, this can build up and cause a strong chlorine smell, as well as skin irritation. you can use a non chlorine shock (potassium monosulfate) every 1-2 weeks or as needed
@@payceanderson1310 I guess if you have a build up of CC then you would have to shock the pool. I keep my pool fairly clean, daily light clean and weekly vacuum, and I test the chemistry every week. I don't think i've once shocked the pool in the past 10 yrs of doing this. If you keep having a buildup of CC then I think maybe you are letting dirt buildup in the pool for too many days or you're keeping your chlorine level too low.
@@SwimUniversity If you have any clue as to what you are doing lol... you are not shocking regularly ... like... shock regularly... but check your alk once a month... but check your salt after a heavy rain???????????? These directions are crazy... Using boost? Who has a salt cell not running 100% (all that does is put it it to 100%... shock once a week? wtf? Not to mention a real shock is 10X your chlorine level so... 3 is ideal... once a week you need to bring the pool to 30? LOL oh god... The best had to be a tie with add salt slow... Why not just oh idk... calculate the right amount... to add? and then clean the salt cell when you open and close the pool... So pool is closed... salt cell is dry and clean Open pool.... Better clean it again... rofl...
You may have your generator turned up too high. I have most of my pools set at percentages that give me 2.0 -3.0 readings and still have clear water with no algae. Of course every pool is different and your pool may not be able to get away with a reading like that. If it is getting more sun exposure, has a smaller filter, and/or more usage then you'll have to make adjustments.
I’ve had the Hayward aqua rite chlorinator and the t-9 cell going on 10 years now with no problems. I’m waiting for something to mess up but so far so good. Fingers crossed.
Ur the MAN!!!! Thx for spreading the knowledge, been following u for a cpl of years now, and I must say Ive learned a lot!! I've told all in my circle that own a pool about u :)
Salt pools i keep Alchalinity at 80 and Calcium at 200, salt 3600, stabalizer 70, this helps keep scaling down since PH generally runs at 8.0. And I almost never shock a salt pool.
Very interesting information. I just upgraded the above the ground pool, it was 8x 30, now, 18 Ft by "52 deep Intex. We are working the set up and we are going to use the Intex salt system. Can I do that without a problem? If so, what should I watch for? Thanks 👍
In the "adding too much salt to quickly" section, you speak of adding more water and show a picture of a hose filter; do you recommend a specific brand of hose filter? Our well water is chock full of calcium. (I've had to add a lot of water to our pool this hot, dry summer in Panhandle Florida.)
Because salt systems always bounce the PH up, and you need to lower the PH weekly, I would add Sulfuric acid (no fume) instead of muriatic acid. You are only trying to lower the PH, not the alkalinity. Muriatic acid lowers both more rapidly. Also, if you're in a area where the calcium levels in the source water are high. You'll want to keep the alkalinity a little bit lower than you might normally keep in a pool where you're adding chlorine manually. That way you won't get the calcium granules blowing back into the pool when the cell reverses polarity to clean itself.
I can see why it's the kids who flunked high school chemistry that end up as pool boys. What you say about pH is absolute nonsense, you can't lower pH AND alkalinity, they are opposites. Low pH is acidity, high pH is alkalinity 🤯. Muriatic acid is simply HCl (strictly speaking H3O+Cl-). It's an ACID (proton doner); it can ONLY lower pH! Salt is merely the Cl buffer in the system. As the cell dissassociates NaCl, the Cl is consumed by biological processes and sunlight and Na increases. Na is an alkali metal, so raises pH. Adding hydrochloric (muriatic) acid replaces the lost Cl by re-forming salt (NaOH + HCl -> NaCl + H2O) and drops pH. It is the HCl that is the ultimate source of renewable Cl in your pool. Adding sulphuric acid (H2SO4) will drop PH but not replace the Cl. It will also increase sulphate levels.
@@stephengrimmer35 And this is why internet chemists aren’t pool guys. Different chemicals have different buoyancy due to their density when they are IN water, therefor when or if the pool isn’t circulating you have different layers of chemicals, sodium base tends to sink, such as your sodium hypochlorites, and sodium bicarbonates. And your acid bases such as your hydrochloric and cynarics will layer above. When you’re dealing with chemical PPM in water every chemical you add will effect one of the others. If your alkalinity is at a 30ppm and you need to raise it to 100ppm the addition of (let’s say 10lbs in a 15k gallon pool) sodium bicarbonate which is a BASE will raise your PH. Now if your alkalinity is high due to someone not calculating their doses properly and you straight pour or “tunnel” your hydrochloric acid in a high volume into the water you’ll blow a hole in your alkalinity layer and neutralize the alkalinity creating carbon dioxide gas. It’s called a neutralization reaction. But they must not have taught you any of that in internet chemist class.
@@xxxSiMoN18xxx When your pool isn't running? So how long exactly do you let a pool rest before you test the water? I'll take the advice of the guy you try to make fun of while talking about non moving water
I started renting my buddies house which has a salt water pool, watching this video helped my understand that I have a lot to keep in mind for pool care...any other tips for a new pool man like myself???
for some reasons, my pool PH is always fine and I have a saltwater system, I never have to add anything (except salt when opening it) .. I used to have a spa (bromine) and it was the opposite, PH needed to be adjusted often
Us pool guys should vote whether we like salt systems or not, would be interesting to see the results lol. I personally don't like them unless we install an acid feeder, especially in plaster pools
I'm a non-chemist homeowner with a brand-new 18ft dia x 4ft deep aboveground pool (approx 6400gal). I don't plan to be horrible at maintaining it, but I hope the somewhat over-sized Intex sand filter/pump & chlorine generator unit will simplify things. I just setup the pool yesterday, and I've got the hoses, fittings, and filter/pump/chlorine generator unit installed . I've leak-tested the hoses & fittings, and the pump & filter appear to be working. Now I'm heading outside to add salt for the chlorine generator.
You basically swap dumping in chlorine for dumping in more acid. I have one, I think this its overrated. The cells themselves also just dont last that long in my climate.
I was planning to swap my bromine pool to salt when we do the liner next year but after reading more about it I decided we're just going to swap to chlorine. The "savings" of using cheap salt get eaten up quickly by the salt cells only lasting 3-7 years. I've always had a crystal clear pool and it's really a simple task if you put in a minimal amount of effort REGULARLY so the appeal of a more automated system isn't huge for me.
You can use your boost mode to temporarily superchlorinate, but doing so adds wear to the cell. Salt cells unfortunately have a limited service life. Frequent use of the boost mode will shorten the lifespan of the cell. In most instances, sodium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite are cheap and easy for shocking. Their results are immediate and don’t require any messing with your cell. Good video though!
I wouldn't advise using Calcium Hypochlorite in a Pool with a Salt Water Chlorinator / Generator. Using Sodium Hypochlorite is fine, or any Sodium based Chlorines is fine, but beware, these granular Sodium base chlorines contain Cyanuric Acid, so watch your Stabilizer / Sunscreen levels
@@user-zc8zx6jl5g Can you tell me what kind of product that is to avoid? Are you referring to all the bag\bottle shocks available at the pool and big box stores? Is there one preferred over the other? Is liquid the best choice vs powder?
@@FirstnameLastname-tb9dr bleach is pure sodium hypochlorite, and has nothing else. Tablets have cyanuric acid, which can build up to a point where they go from protecting chlorine to disabling it. Cal-hypo (powder in bags) isn't awful, but yes, you need to watch your calcium level to avoid scaling.
HI good day to you thanks for your informative videos I'm a first salt user and the last times I hade the pool on it was a mess. I have two questions if you can be so kind to help me 1st do I have to have the sand pump and salt system on every day and 2nd what do I do if my reading salt is 2,820 do I add more salt and if so how much or do I have to wait till my salt system reads low on salt my pool is an Intex of 4,440 gal. Salt its supposed to be from 3,000 to 3,400
I have a strange issue. My pool looks great, PH is great, free chlorine, salt levels are all good, I cleaned my DE filter about a month ago. The problem is, I can tell water pressure is increased, by adding a 1/2 a cup to one gallon of water, to my pool skimmers, within 2 minutes it increases and runs steady for about 4-6 hours… I don’t understand why this happens. It does the same thing as backwashing my filter, it just doesn’t last as long. I am thinking I need to clean my filter again, but I normally don’t have to do this but once a quarter
I read somewhere that chlorine should be 7,5% of CYA because of the reduced effectiveness at higher levels. That would mean, at your mentioned 80ppm CYA level, 6 ppm of chlorine would be required. What du you suggest?
I bought a blue works system for a 15000 gallon pool mine is a 10'000 the cell produces very little chlorine, the tech support said it is to small and I need to by a bigger cell which is not going to happen this year but I was curious what will happen if I just run it at 100% other than wearing out a cell that really isn't worth a crap anyway.
What's the best way to remove the salt cylinder? I did it once before with a big wrench but I try to do it yesterday and I was scared I was going to break something. My friend told me to use an oil filter wrench but I went to Home Depot and I saw this clamp that looked like it would fit around the outside thread but it didn't have enough torque to turn the cylinder locks to unthread them. So I'll return that today and get the oil filter wrench. I just don't want to break anything by putting too much pressure on it
So informative! Thank you from a new salt water pool owner. I have taking care if pools for many years but when it’s yours, it seems a bit different.😂. Thank you!
I have a fiberglass pool with a salt system. I've never heard of a salt ring building up at the water line. Salt dissolves easily in water so it would be difficult for it to form. It could be calcium. Try to grab a little bit of the build up and pour muriatic acid on it. If it fizzes it's calcium.
@@sd0753 Thanks for your reply. Yep! I’m sure it is a hard water build up. What is the best way to clean it off without harming the fiberglass pool? Thanks!
I'm not sure. I'm just a homeowner. I would think lowering the water and washing with muriatic acid would work. To prevent it from happening again, you'd need to lower the calcium hardness in your water. Depending on where you are, that could be impossible
there seem to be some mistakes here. added confusion for most i'm sure not discussing the differences for oxidizing and super chlorination in comparison with chlorinated shock. In addition having salt pool anodes. for a commoner though, it's enough to get by.
Cheat Sheet never downloads -- has it moved to a different page or are you not offering it anymore? I just get the spinning arrow once I put in my email and click in the reCaptcha box.
Pool ownership is a blast lol, it’s not that bad folks but definitely madness to keep water in the condition we prefer for swimming pools, love lakes kept up by the good lord for free.
Matt- If I have a vinyl liner, in-ground pool that I drain a few inches under my skimmer for the winter, should I care about water hardness? Thanks - Matt
@@SwimUniversity Vinyl, the one that matters the least to have it balanced... tell me SU... why are we not keeping ALL pools regardless of type balanced? Why is it only in ground vinyl pools?
C- :Some good info, but overall I give this video a “C-“. If you aren’t checking your Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) then you are doing yourself a disservice. A high CSI (0.5 or greater) means your water is scaling which means calcium deposits form on your tiles, ladder and equipment including your salt cell. If you’re using a pumice stone to clean your pool, then your saturation level is too high. If your CSI is low, then the water will aggressively remove calcium from tile, grout, etc., and you will damage your pool. You can use a manual wheel calculator or a calculator online to find your CSI. To get your CSI calculation, you will need to know your calcium level, alkalinity, PH level and temperature. Happy Hunting
Installed the pool today. It's a 9000 gallon pool and added the required 200 pounds of salt. My test strips (after 5 hours) are 1000 ppm instead of 3000ppm lol. I hate this thing already
How long is it safe to operate a pentar intieli chor chlorinator with high salt levels? It says on unit 3600 is normal however reading of water is 4200 . Cant drain pool until next week will it be ok?
@@MiloCK_0991 please be more specific as this is something I deal with on a regular. I keep my ALK around 80 it definitely goes up slower. The higher it is the more acid I have to put in every few days. Don’t understand how some people say they only add acid once in a blue moon or never
We hope this helps you avoid these salt water pool maintenance mistakes! And if you need more help, grab our free Salt Water Pool Cheat Sheet at www.swimuniversity.com/saltwater 👍
Hello, hope you are well! Quick question: my low salt warning has come on and was wondering if water softener salt is just as good as pool salt? It's half the price where I live so thought its worth the question. I've done a little research and if it's not pure white and pure sodium chlorine not to use but I would rather listen to you. Kind regards Matt.
P.s another great video thank you!!!
Too funny, but yeah, I get it
Cool good but you definitely forgot to mention alkalinity and how important it is when you have a pool heater. You also often mention calcium buildup but did not mention how to remove it. Sorry I don't mean to criticize but it would make for a moral wholes ome video
@@mattgoodwin70 water softener salt (without additives, like stain removers) is exactly the same as pool salt. It comes in crystals and pellets, which while coarser than pool salt granules, dissolve just about as quickly, so who cares! It's certainly not worth 1-1/2 to twice the price.
If I use seawater (which I pump from under the ground, it's technically brackish but it can have a salinity of 4000ppm)
Do I still need to use chlorine?
Or can I just change the water on a regular basis?
well this is overwhelming af. filling in my pool with dirt.
You will still drop 8k
Omg I just got so overwhelmed by half video.. ima have to pay someone.. this is hard..
@@rasborojc yeah it really is. Like I need to go to college for this. Haha
I was out with mistake #6 ✌️
It doesnt get any easier then a salt pool.
Clear concise and comprehensive. And no LOUD background music. THANK YOU!
Glad it was helpful!
This and your other videos are straight forward and easy to follow. After owning a saltwater pool for nearly ten years now, I believe I know more than the average owner. It is mostly trial and error and you will learn from every mistake you make. The tougher lessons learned the less likely you will forget that scenario in the future. But one thing is for certain. If you want it beautifully clear and balanced, a swimming pool is like a five-year-old child. You can't take your eyes off of it for a second!
That's a great analogy! 🤣
I saved this video in my Pool folder and refer back to it every Summer. Thank you for all your videos.
This guy is the be all end all of pool maintenance. He is a genius professor. He can help you with whatever ails your pool.
True!!
Wow thank you! So appreciate that
Um, everything here was just crazy... shock once a week? wtf is the point of a salt system then.... (not to mention he aint talking about a real shock he's talking about a salt cell that can't keep up with demand and just adding extra chlorine using a package that says "shock")
Clean the cell when you close AND open the pool.... Check alk once a MONTH? but check salt after a heavy rain? This is nuts...
Great video!
I watched about 15 other videos and this is the first one that seems to have everything in one place in a very short and concise list.
I'll be referencing it many times in the future I'm sure.
Also, I love how you documented each mistake by number. Some I had to listen to several times, and your index was super helpful.
Thank you. My pool has been crystal clear since watching your videos.
Great video and very helpful! My pool service company keeps putting chlorine tabs in the pool, which I never understood since it's a salt pool. Letting them go, and taking over myself with the help of this video. Also going to get your cheat sheets. Thank you!!
Chlorine tabs? I'm glad you decided to take over!
I just bought a home with a salt water pool. After a week and a half of watching your videos, I think I’ve got a basic understanding of how to take care of it, I’m just more of a hands on learner. Keep the salt water pool for dummies videos coming!
Will do! Hope they've helped so far. We have more articles on our website, too.
Awesome. You're a natural teacher!
Beginner here and this was super helpful. thanks!
This is great information breaking it down for someone who moved from the city to a home with a SW pool. The pool cleaner we have is probably doing none of this and the info you provided makes it easy to take it on ourselves and probably do a much better job!
Glad we can help!
Pool guy here. Thanks for pointing out that salt pools still are chlorine! I can show this to customers who get upset when I tell them this.....
It’s a gimmick….upset customers get dumped over here
There’s a reason why mechanics don’t let customers in the garage. Everyone thinks they are a mechanic.
Long time pool owner here. Agree with everything except the part about having to shock the pool regularly. If your pool chemistry is fine and the water remains clear algae free there is no need to shock the pool. Only time i shock is when i open and close the pool for the season.
That's great. If you have a pool that doesn't cause you issues and you don't get lots of rain or debris inside, that makes sense you don't need to shock it often.
Shocking helps to remove your combine available chlorine, which is basically just dead chlorine. Depending on the pool, and how much usage it gets, this can build up and cause a strong chlorine smell, as well as skin irritation. you can use a non chlorine shock (potassium monosulfate) every 1-2 weeks or as needed
@@payceanderson1310 I guess if you have a build up of CC then you would have to shock the pool. I keep my pool fairly clean, daily light clean and weekly vacuum, and I test the chemistry every week. I don't think i've once shocked the pool in the past 10 yrs of doing this. If you keep having a buildup of CC then I think maybe you are letting dirt buildup in the pool for too many days or you're keeping your chlorine level too low.
@@SwimUniversity If you have any clue as to what you are doing lol... you are not shocking regularly ... like... shock regularly... but check your alk once a month... but check your salt after a heavy rain???????????? These directions are crazy... Using boost? Who has a salt cell not running 100% (all that does is put it it to 100%... shock once a week? wtf? Not to mention a real shock is 10X your chlorine level so... 3 is ideal... once a week you need to bring the pool to 30? LOL oh god...
The best had to be a tie with
add salt slow...
Why not just oh idk... calculate the right amount... to add?
and then clean the salt cell when you open and close the pool...
So pool is closed... salt cell is dry and clean
Open pool.... Better clean it again... rofl...
Long time pool maintenance man here and your wrong.It’s guys like you that help keep us in business.😄
I do appreciate not feeling of chlorine after getting out of my salt water pool. I also have to add muriatic acid regularly. Great pointers!
You may have your generator turned up too high. I have most of my pools set at percentages that give me 2.0 -3.0 readings and still have clear water with no algae. Of course every pool is different and your pool may not be able to get away with a reading like that. If it is getting more sun exposure, has a smaller filter, and/or more usage then you'll have to make adjustments.
You can lower your pH without affecting alkalinity by injecting CO2.
I’ve had the Hayward aqua rite chlorinator and the t-9 cell going on 10 years now with no problems.
I’m waiting for something to mess up but so far so good.
Fingers crossed.
Ur the MAN!!!! Thx for spreading the knowledge, been following u for a cpl of years now, and I must say Ive learned a lot!! I've told all in my circle that own a pool about u :)
I've applied for the salt pool engineering graduate program at Harward to be able to maintain my pool
Outstanding information for a new pool owner. Thank you 🙏🏾
Glad it was helpful!
An amazing and concise pack of very useful advices. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the tips!
We were making all but one of the mistakes!
Salt pools i keep Alchalinity at 80 and Calcium at 200, salt 3600, stabalizer 70, this helps keep scaling down since PH generally runs at 8.0. And I almost never shock a salt pool.
Very interesting information. I just upgraded the above the ground pool, it was 8x 30, now, 18 Ft by "52 deep Intex. We are working the set up and we are going to use the Intex salt system. Can I do that without a problem? If so, what should I watch for?
Thanks 👍
Thank you for that great info. You really broke it down for easy understanding.
In the "adding too much salt to quickly" section, you speak of adding more water and show a picture of a hose filter; do you recommend a specific brand of hose filter? Our well water is chock full of calcium. (I've had to add a lot of water to our pool this hot, dry summer in Panhandle Florida.)
Because salt systems always bounce the PH up, and you need to lower the PH weekly, I would add Sulfuric acid (no fume) instead of muriatic acid. You are only trying to lower the PH, not the alkalinity. Muriatic acid lowers both more rapidly. Also, if you're in a area where the calcium levels in the source water are high. You'll want to keep the alkalinity a little bit lower than you might normally keep in a pool where you're adding chlorine manually. That way you won't get the calcium granules blowing back into the pool when the cell reverses polarity to clean itself.
That's a great tip, thanks!
I can see why it's the kids who flunked high school chemistry that end up as pool boys. What you say about pH is absolute nonsense, you can't lower pH AND alkalinity, they are opposites. Low pH is acidity, high pH is alkalinity 🤯.
Muriatic acid is simply HCl (strictly speaking H3O+Cl-). It's an ACID (proton doner); it can ONLY lower pH! Salt is merely the Cl buffer in the system. As the cell dissassociates NaCl, the Cl is consumed by biological processes and sunlight and Na increases. Na is an alkali metal, so raises pH. Adding hydrochloric (muriatic) acid replaces the lost Cl by re-forming salt (NaOH + HCl -> NaCl + H2O) and drops pH. It is the HCl that is the ultimate source of renewable Cl in your pool. Adding sulphuric acid (H2SO4) will drop PH but not replace the Cl. It will also increase sulphate levels.
@@stephengrimmer35 Take a perfectly balanced pool, add a gallon of muratic acid. Test again and then open your mouth.
@@stephengrimmer35 And this is why internet chemists aren’t pool guys. Different chemicals have different buoyancy due to their density when they are IN water, therefor when or if the pool isn’t circulating you have different layers of chemicals, sodium base tends to sink, such as your sodium hypochlorites, and sodium bicarbonates. And your acid bases such as your hydrochloric and cynarics will layer above. When you’re dealing with chemical PPM in water every chemical you add will effect one of the others. If your alkalinity is at a 30ppm and you need to raise it to 100ppm the addition of (let’s say 10lbs in a 15k gallon pool) sodium bicarbonate which is a BASE will raise your PH. Now if your alkalinity is high due to someone not calculating their doses properly and you straight pour or “tunnel” your hydrochloric acid in a high volume into the water you’ll blow a hole in your alkalinity layer and neutralize the alkalinity creating carbon dioxide gas. It’s called a neutralization reaction. But they must not have taught you any of that in internet chemist class.
@@xxxSiMoN18xxx When your pool isn't running? So how long exactly do you let a pool rest before you test the water? I'll take the advice of the guy you try to make fun of while talking about non moving water
Should i get an intex saltwater gen with the ozone option for double the cost?
Very informative! Thank you :)
Very good. Concise and well organized. Thank you.
Thanks! Instructions are very clear!
Hi !
Quick pool question.
I need to add salt. What setting should I have it on ? Filtration ? Recirculate?
I started renting my buddies house which has a salt water pool, watching this video helped my understand that I have a lot to keep in mind for pool care...any other tips for a new pool man like myself???
Hire a pool cleaner or your in for a hell of a ride 😂
for some reasons, my pool PH is always fine and I have a saltwater system, I never have to add anything (except salt when opening it) .. I used to have a spa (bromine) and it was the opposite, PH needed to be adjusted often
Us pool guys should vote whether we like salt systems or not, would be interesting to see the results lol. I personally don't like them unless we install an acid feeder, especially in plaster pools
I dont like them unless the homeowner is terrible at maintaining their pool.
I'm a homeowner who is terrible at pool maintenance, love the salt system lol
I'm a non-chemist homeowner with a brand-new 18ft dia x 4ft deep aboveground pool (approx 6400gal). I don't plan to be horrible at maintaining it, but I hope the somewhat over-sized Intex sand filter/pump & chlorine generator unit will simplify things.
I just setup the pool yesterday, and I've got the hoses, fittings, and filter/pump/chlorine generator unit installed . I've leak-tested the hoses & fittings, and the pump & filter appear to be working. Now I'm heading outside to add salt for the chlorine generator.
You basically swap dumping in chlorine for dumping in more acid. I have one, I think this its overrated. The cells themselves also just dont last that long in my climate.
I was planning to swap my bromine pool to salt when we do the liner next year but after reading more about it I decided we're just going to swap to chlorine. The "savings" of using cheap salt get eaten up quickly by the salt cells only lasting 3-7 years. I've always had a crystal clear pool and it's really a simple task if you put in a minimal amount of effort REGULARLY so the appeal of a more automated system isn't huge for me.
Thank you so much. I am learning to maintain my pool.
Thank you!
I may have overstated the pool what should I do now
I was thinking about digging a well and using filtered well water
This was very helpful. Thank you
This was very helpful. Thank youl
Hi and great work. Can you recommend any good digital salinity readers? Thanks.
Great video. Thanks!
This was fantastic. Thanks 👍
Excellent information. Thank you#
Ok watched again this IS the best video!
Glad you think so!
Mistake 8 haveing a pool
This was a really great tutorial! Easy to follow and helped me understand the logical connections in pool chemistry. THANKS!
Excellent review. Very informative. Thank you.
Very informative. Great 👍 video
glorious thank you!
Fantastic info here - thank you! 😊
You can use your boost mode to temporarily superchlorinate, but doing so adds wear to the cell. Salt cells unfortunately have a limited service life. Frequent use of the boost mode will shorten the lifespan of the cell. In most instances, sodium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite are cheap and easy for shocking. Their results are immediate and don’t require any messing with your cell. Good video though!
I wouldn't advise using Calcium Hypochlorite in a Pool with a Salt Water Chlorinator / Generator.
Using Sodium Hypochlorite is fine, or any Sodium based Chlorines is fine, but beware, these granular Sodium base chlorines contain Cyanuric Acid, so watch your Stabilizer / Sunscreen levels
@@user-zc8zx6jl5g Can you tell me what kind of product that is to avoid? Are you referring to all the bag\bottle shocks available at the pool and big box stores? Is there one preferred over the other? Is liquid the best choice vs powder?
@@FirstnameLastname-tb9dr bleach is pure sodium hypochlorite, and has nothing else. Tablets have cyanuric acid, which can build up to a point where they go from protecting chlorine to disabling it. Cal-hypo (powder in bags) isn't awful, but yes, you need to watch your calcium level to avoid scaling.
HI good day to you thanks for your informative videos I'm a first salt user and the last times I hade the pool on it was a mess. I have two questions if you can be so kind to help me 1st do I have to have the sand pump and salt system on every day and 2nd what do I do if my reading salt is 2,820 do I add more salt and if so how much or do I have to wait till my salt system reads low on salt my pool is an Intex of 4,440 gal. Salt its supposed to be from 3,000 to 3,400
Thank you!!!! Very helpful!!!
I have a strange issue. My pool looks great, PH is great, free chlorine, salt levels are all good, I cleaned my DE filter about a month ago. The problem is, I can tell water pressure is increased, by adding a 1/2 a cup to one gallon of water, to my pool skimmers, within 2 minutes it increases and runs steady for about 4-6 hours… I don’t understand why this happens. It does the same thing as backwashing my filter, it just doesn’t last as long. I am thinking I need to clean my filter again, but I normally don’t have to do this but once a quarter
This was very helpful
Do I need to worry about calcium in an above ground pool? That may be a dumb question but I’m new at this and I really don’t know.
So you can test free chlorine levels with the old standard test kits ?
With the 5 drops of R0001?
What hose filter brand works best?
Great video!
I would love to just use the boost option but it needs to run for 36-48 hours.
I read somewhere that chlorine should be 7,5% of CYA because of the reduced effectiveness at higher levels. That would mean, at your mentioned 80ppm CYA level, 6 ppm of chlorine would be required. What du you suggest?
how does this change if it's an indoor pool?
If it's an indoor pool that doesn't get direct sunlight, you don't need to worry about stabilizer/cyanuric acid
Great video!!!
I’ve been through this and knew exactly how it would end. Salt cell is next… 😅
I was hooping salt pool would be easier to maintain... Now i am not so sure.
Great Content it is appreciated
I bought a blue works system for a 15000 gallon pool mine is a 10'000 the cell produces very little chlorine, the tech support said it is to small and I need to by a bigger cell which is not going to happen this year but I was curious what will happen if I just run it at 100% other than wearing out a cell that really isn't worth a crap anyway.
Salt sucks, lol... run it at 100% and set the pump to run as long as needed to keep chlorine in the pool...
What's the best way to remove the salt cylinder? I did it once before with a big wrench but I try to do it yesterday and I was scared I was going to break something. My friend told me to use an oil filter wrench but I went to Home Depot and I saw this clamp that looked like it would fit around the outside thread but it didn't have enough torque to turn the cylinder locks to unthread them. So I'll return that today and get the oil filter wrench. I just don't want to break anything by putting too much pressure on it
Why does my ppm always reset everyday. It goes below the 2500 ppm every time i have to re calibrate and it works.
Thank you😊
So informative! Thank you from a new salt water pool owner. I have taking care if pools for many years but when it’s yours, it seems a bit different.😂. Thank you!
I have a fiberglass pool with a salt system. How do I clean off the salt ring that builds up around the inside of the pool at the water line? Thanks!
I have a fiberglass pool with a salt system. I've never heard of a salt ring building up at the water line. Salt dissolves easily in water so it would be difficult for it to form. It could be calcium. Try to grab a little bit of the build up and pour muriatic acid on it. If it fizzes it's calcium.
@@sd0753 Thanks for your reply. Yep! I’m sure it is a hard water build up. What is the best way to clean it off without harming the fiberglass pool? Thanks!
I'm not sure. I'm just a homeowner. I would think lowering the water and washing with muriatic acid would work. To prevent it from happening again, you'd need to lower the calcium hardness in your water. Depending on where you are, that could be impossible
there seem to be some mistakes here. added confusion for most i'm sure not discussing the differences for oxidizing and super chlorination in comparison with chlorinated shock. In addition having salt pool anodes. for a commoner though, it's enough to get by.
What is best shock for salt pool? Do you have link?
Liquid chlorine or dichlor shock. Or use your super chlorinate button on your salt water generator.
So what does it mean if I am having to clean my salt cell every other week due to calcium build up? Water is super clear. Should I replace the cell?
Very good video
Thanks
I have the Tcell940 what should my setting be on my system 15,9,5,3
Cheat Sheet never downloads -- has it moved to a different page or are you not offering it anymore?
I just get the spinning arrow once I put in my email and click in the reCaptcha box.
Don't forget to add a dash of pepper!
My pool is balanced and chlorine levels are good but I still see algae growth
Check your CYA level BEFORE using Dichlor or Trichlor to shock your pool. AFTER is too late.
Pool ownership is a blast lol, it’s not that bad folks but definitely madness to keep water in the condition we prefer for swimming pools, love lakes kept up by the good lord for free.
Great video as usual.
Great stuff.
I’ve tried both salt and chlorine… chlorine is far easier to maintain. Liquid chlorine is the “secret”..
Yes easier but the salt pool is so much better for hair, skin and eyes.
Lol…chlorine is chlorine
@@poolmonkey7479 no sir.. pellets don’t get it done.. for me anyway.. 12% liquid is the ticket ..
If my cya levels are good , should I just shock pool with liquid shock ? Is that safe for the pool because isn’t it just bleach ? Thanks
Matt- If I have a vinyl liner, in-ground pool that I drain a few inches under my skimmer for the winter, should I care about water hardness? Thanks - Matt
Yes, if it's an inground pool with a vinyl liner your calcium hardness levels should be maintained between 175 and 225 PPM.
Thanks
@@SwimUniversity Vinyl, the one that matters the least to have it balanced... tell me SU... why are we not keeping ALL pools regardless of type balanced? Why is it only in ground vinyl pools?
Thank you!
Is there a way to get rid of Calcium Silicate? it does not dissolve with household acid
Thanks great video
how long should your salt clorinater each day
Why don't you mention using boric acid to buffer against rising pH?
C- :Some good info, but overall I give this video a “C-“. If you aren’t checking your Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) then you are doing yourself a disservice. A high CSI (0.5 or greater) means your water is scaling which means calcium deposits form on your tiles, ladder and equipment including your salt cell. If you’re using a pumice stone to clean your pool, then your saturation level is too high. If your CSI is low, then the water will aggressively remove calcium from tile, grout, etc., and you will damage your pool.
You can use a manual wheel calculator or a calculator online to find your CSI. To get your CSI calculation, you will need to know your calcium level, alkalinity, PH level and temperature. Happy Hunting
Installed the pool today. It's a 9000 gallon pool and added the required 200 pounds of salt. My test strips (after 5 hours) are 1000 ppm instead of 3000ppm lol. I hate this thing already
How long is it safe to operate a pentar intieli chor chlorinator with high salt levels? It says on unit 3600 is normal however reading of water is 4200 . Cant drain pool until next week will it be ok?
Can you make a video of how home owners can try plastering their own pool?
wouldn't recommend plastering your own pool. would practice plastering a fish pond for practice first
Lol i’ve been building Pools for 10 years this is not something I would recommend.
Why do you recommend running alkalinity so high? It causes my PH to raise even faster
pH and Alkalinity only goes up when outside factors affect it. the question is which one is causing it to raise so quickly.
@@MiloCK_0991 please be more specific as this is something I deal with on a regular. I keep my ALK around 80 it definitely goes up slower. The higher it is the more acid I have to put in every few days. Don’t understand how some people say they only add acid once in a blue moon or never
Alkalinity 80-100ppm is your best bet. Imo