Thank you for explaining the choice so clearly. It's interesting about the system generating its own chlorine, and it looks as if the switch is less costly than I expected.
Tu lyps, salt water pools are great! Check out our blog post for more information on converting your pool: www.inyopools.com/blog/converting-your-pool-to-saltwater/
I don't see any link for "installation step by step instructions" in the description below. Any chance you can add that or answer this comment with the link?
You'd think the manufacturer already built in some tolerance in their system. If a system rated for 20K cannot handle a 20K pool then something isn't right.
Tree climber here. A lot of our equipment is rated for a maximum of 25,000lbs shock load. That doesn't mean you should do that. That means it's the max it can take without breaking. If you redline your cars rpms for too long, you can blow your engine. It pretty much applies to everything, the max doesn't mean take it there. Hope this helps.
Is this an attachment that works with the current pool filter/pump (something you add on to your system) or does the current pool filter need to be replaced by this? (throw out my old system/pump?)
Do I have empty the current water out before I switch to salt? I currently have a sand pump filtration system. Also what is the best filtration system for the buck. Thank you.
No, you do not need to empty the current water before switching to salt. We recommend a cartridge system. Quad cartridge systems are nice because they hold a lot of debris and don't have to be cleaned as often as single cartridge systems.
What kind of anode is that with the bonding strap. I would like one that i can keep in my strainer basket, but has a bonding strap that goes to the metal frame so that i functions properly.
You could convert an inflatable jacuzzi to salt water. You'd want to find a bromine salt system designed for spas. Gecko makes one called the in-clear but there are probably some other options out there.
So since a salt water generator is always continually creating chlorine, does the amount of stabilizer go down as compared to a traditional chlorine pool. I have a 40k gallon pool in direct sunlight. I had an extremely hard time keeping chlorine in the water, and I was constantly adding stabilizer.
The stabilizer level should be maintained at 30-50 ppm. You shouldn't have to add it very often with a salt pool. It's been a year since I added it to my salt water pool.
You have full sun on pool and swg, so 60-80ppm of cya stabilizer is recommended. 30-50ppm a bit too low, you will be forced to increase the generation time to make up for lost chlorine due to the full sun.
@@Inyopools if @Kyle Weiss has an outdoor pool, a lot of rain could dilute the cyanuric acid or chlorine stabilizer to water ratio. Splashing water out, backwashing the filter and vacuuming to waste also normally remove water, along with everything the pool water contains, from the pool. It is easy to forget replacing the water does not replace the stuff in the water. With low stabilizer proportions and in a pinch, I have had some success increasing SWG % in my client's pools at night the same way you only add non-stabilized chlorine at night in a freshwater pool. In a world with rolling blackouts, keep the stabilizer proportion right for best SWG energy use. If CFL and LED light bulbs make sense to save a few watts, so does this.
How often you add salt will really depend on how often fresh water (rain) is added to the pool and how often you have to drain water. My pool is 10k gallons and I had to add a 50 bag every other month between April and September. Outside of that, I have not had to add any.
Would like to go to salt but worried about the steel frame of the above ground pool. Was thinking about using pvc but don't think it would be strong enough. ?
Salt water can impact the steel top rails, plates, and rims. I'd switch those parts to resin if that's an option for your pool. Do you know the make and model of your above ground pool?
I have been handling chlorine for over 30 years with no problem. Chlorine dangerous to handle??? Give me a break with that BS, more dangerous to put gas in my lawnmower or snowblower. Believe what you want. I'm sticking with my current system. It is more important to learn how much liquid chlorine to add and when to add it based on the size of your pool, sun exposure,etc.
Maybe look at an extreme low-salt model running at 800ppm which is about the same as tap water. Australia has the Saltigem XSL model and a few others but there would be a competitive model somewhere in the your zone.
Wow, I can't believe you guys are still using inline cell housings. Here in Australia (millions of pools here!) we seem to be eons ahead technologically-speaking. A standard salt chlorinator here has side-entry housings and often vertical unions, reverse polarity (so massively minimised calcification), inbuild pH-control modules for acid feeder upgrade (either sensor driven or algarhythmic), digital timers with backup batteries, auto pump shutdown incorporated into gas sensors, detailed information onscreen, and more. That design you are showing is fundamentally flawed. I doubt you guys would be buying Australian Chlorinators, but at least look up North at the Canadian company Astral (or Fluidra, or Hurlcon, they have a few names) at their units, the E-series is good for the money.
I'm considering switching to salt, what are these systems you're speaking of? I'm sure we have access everything in the US. If anyone is familiar, I'd like some more info.
1-3 PPM Chlorine and 70-80 PPM CYA will have algae growing in no time. Don’t you need high chlorine levels in a salt water pool? It should be around 9-10 PPM chlorine for the water to stay clean and sanitary at that level of CYA.
Adding a sacrificial zinc anode to the system will prevent rust on any of the metals in the water. It may not help in every application. Steel above ground pools and old stainless steel filters seem to have an issue with salt systems.
I turned my above ground pool to salt. Big mistake. The wall started to rust around the skimmer. The top rails rusted and the edges would fall in the pool over the winter and rust stain the liner. My deck screws rusted and boards popped up. Huge mistake. I thought I would save money on chlorine and had to buy a new cell every other year anyway and still had to replace the pool within 9 years. Huge waste
Afternoon gentlemen, I think you need to go and correct the Table that says zero calcium is in balance. It should be 150 at the bare minimum but 200 per industry-standard.
I have been cleaning pools for 27 years professionally. I will tell you what I tell my customers, you will never get back the money that you will spend putting in one of these systems. They are overpriced, and very misrepresented. This system will not sustain itself in hot climates. During the very hot summer months, you will still need to add liquid chlorine because of the increased humidity and bather load. Your ph levels will need to be adjusted on a weekly basis. You will be adding a lot of acid! On average of 1-2 quarts a week. I can tell you that it is almost impossible to maintain a chlorine level that is appropriate. Most of the time the chlor level is either to high or to low. Your salt cell will need to be cleaned and maintained as well. Even listening to expenses listed by these gentlemen in the video, even at the prices a couple of years ago, it is much cheaper to have a professional pool service maintain your pool and you won't have to worry about personally handling the liquid chlorine. Salt cells now average twice the cost that they just quoted. Not to mention, you will also need to drain and refill your pool water every two years. Some customers tell me that they like the way the pool water feels with the salt. You can add a bag or two of the salt to your current pool and have the same feeling. The comments about the skin and eye irritation is usually because the ph and alkalinity are out of balance. Those are adjusted with sodium bicarb to raise low levels, or acid to lower high levels. Both of which will irritate you.
Hello Tom - Thank you for the feedback. I live in Florida and have a salt system. My pool has never had an issue with keeping up with the chlorine demand in the hottest months of the year. The key is to oversize the salt system if you live in a warm climate. Oversizing the system will not only ensure that the chlorine demand is met, it also lengthens the lifespan of the cell. I do agree with you about the acid demand. I have to add a couple cups of acid once a week. As far as draining, I have not heard of having to drain a salt water pool every two years. On the other hand, pool owners who use chlorine tablets all the time occasionally have to partially drain the pool due to high CYA levels.
You will never get back anything when dealing with a pool. Why is the swg any different? A depreciating assett, so it comes down to how does the owner want to care for their pool. For me nearly 15 years of maintaining my pool with a swg and had very little issues. Hard for me to go back to the old school.
what? Yeah you are a pool cleaner. You know nothing about pool chemistry and it shows. Explain why you would need to drain your pool every 2 years. Thats makes zero sense. I never had to drain mine and never had a problem maintaining a chlorine level. And no you cant add a bag or 2 of salt and have the same feeling of a salt water pool. Thats a ridiculous comment. And its a fact that chlorine pools do irritate swimmers even when the ph is perfect because he chlorine is much higher and is an irritant. I know at least 10 people that have salt pools and would never even think about getting a chlorine pool. You seem to make up these delusional problems that dont exist. Salt cells are twice what they quoted? The quoted 200-700. So you are telling me salt cells are 1400? LOL. The entire system is cheaper than that. My cell for a 40K gallon pool is $350. So that over say 5 year average is what? $70 a year. Pool service is anywhere from 150-400 a MONTH. Do research if you dont have a clue. Ok kiddo?
John C it’s true. Salt is the way to go. I’m in the northeast but my brother is in southern Florida. Most people in his area have salt pools. The people that don’t have a salt pool don’t because they never heard of a salt pool and or never have been in one. I was sold first time I was in one. Zero chlorine smell, zero salt taste. Tastes like fresh water.
James Ervin as with anything, it’s probably best not to paint with such a broad brush. Right James? Some people may see more benefits than other from switching while others would see more benefit staying away from a salt system. It’s a very case-by-case type of deal...
1.) "Salt pools is no good." FALSE. My salt water pool is very good, thank you very much. 2.) "salt is a water softener". FALSE. A salt water generator can not soften water. Why? Because it doesn't remove calcium. Calcium harness primarily dictates the softness of your water. Adding salt does nothing to this process. A true water softener physically removes calcium by binding them to resin and rinsing the binded ions (with salt brine or potassium) down the drain when full. 3.) "you still need a chlorine sticks". FALSE. More of a want, not a need if everything is balanced. This situation depends on the pool and the person who cares for it. Even when I start my pool up for the season, my SWG is more than capable of shocking the water. I have backup pucks and bleach at home (who doesn't have bleach at home anyway?) in case of an emergency. Salt water pool owner for nearly 14 years. I wouldn't have it any other way.
Agree 100% with you. I have been handling chlorine for over 30 years with no problem. Chlorine dangerous to handle??? Give me a break with that BS, more dangerous to put gas in my lawnmower or snowblower. Others can believe what they want.
Thank you for explaining the choice so clearly. It's interesting about the system generating its own chlorine, and it looks as if the switch is less costly than I expected.
Tu lyps, salt water pools are great! Check out our blog post for more information on converting your pool: www.inyopools.com/blog/converting-your-pool-to-saltwater/
I don't see any link for "installation step by step instructions" in the description below. Any chance you can add that or answer this comment with the link?
You'd think the manufacturer already built in some tolerance in their system. If a system rated for 20K cannot handle a 20K pool then something isn't right.
Tree climber here. A lot of our equipment is rated for a maximum of 25,000lbs shock load. That doesn't mean you should do that. That means it's the max it can take without breaking. If you redline your cars rpms for too long, you can blow your engine.
It pretty much applies to everything, the max doesn't mean take it there.
Hope this helps.
+ Great video guys!!! Short, informative & straight to the point. Awesome!!!
This was awesome! Thank you!
Is this an attachment that works with the current pool filter/pump (something you add on to your system) or does the current pool filter need to be replaced by this? (throw out my old system/pump?)
A salt chlorine generator can be added to the current pump/filter system. You would not need to get rid of the existing equipment.
The unit can it be mounted either way vertically or horizontal?
Thx for making this easy to understand.
Wow, just the information no one else provides -- how to get the chlorine production system going by setting it to 50% and then testing... thank you
We like to keep it simple.
Thank you for breaking this down.
This was a very informative video, and easy to follow. Thanks guys! 😎
Thanks guys!
This is great guys thank you for the advice 😊
Can salt system be used on aluminum pool?
When I initially dump the salt in my pool should I keep my pump running? I'm thinking my filter won't enjoy 500lbs of salt running through it right?
Inyo Pools is awesome so helpful and their prices are good.
Awesome video. So well done. Thank you!
I thought it would be a lot tougher than that. Wonderful!!😀
Do I have empty the current water out before I switch to salt? I currently have a sand pump filtration system. Also what is the best filtration system for the buck. Thank you.
No, you do not need to empty the current water before switching to salt. We recommend a cartridge system. Quad cartridge systems are nice because they hold a lot of debris and don't have to be cleaned as often as single cartridge systems.
Thanks
Great video! Thank you so much!
What kind of anode is that with the bonding strap. I would like one that i can keep in my strainer basket, but has a bonding strap that goes to the metal frame so that i functions properly.
Hi Kyle, you can check out our selection of zinc anodes here: bit.ly/3ggWP2b
@@Inyopools Your website offers ball and disk shaped anodes that go in the skimmer basket. How can they work if not attached to a ground wire?
Awesome video guys. Easy to understand.
Where’s the DIY installation video they reference? Don’t see it in the description
In our most recent DIY salt system installation video, we install a Pentair Intellichlor. ruclips.net/video/2mr3J8M1qr8/видео.html
@@Inyopools Not really a DIY installation video. They just replace an existing unit.
Thanks for the informative video.
You bet!
Can i convert my inflatable jacuzzi to salt or is there one popularly sold?
You could convert an inflatable jacuzzi to salt water. You'd want to find a bromine salt system designed for spas. Gecko makes one called the in-clear but there are probably some other options out there.
So since a salt water generator is always continually creating chlorine, does the amount of stabilizer go down as compared to a traditional chlorine pool. I have a 40k gallon pool in direct sunlight. I had an extremely hard time keeping chlorine in the water, and I was constantly adding stabilizer.
The stabilizer level should be maintained at 30-50 ppm. You shouldn't have to add it very often with a salt pool. It's been a year since I added it to my salt water pool.
You have full sun on pool and swg, so 60-80ppm of cya stabilizer is recommended. 30-50ppm a bit too low, you will be forced to increase the generation time to make up for lost chlorine due to the full sun.
@@Inyopools if @Kyle Weiss has an outdoor pool, a lot of rain could dilute the cyanuric acid or chlorine stabilizer to water ratio. Splashing water out, backwashing the filter and vacuuming to waste also normally remove water, along with everything the pool water contains, from the pool. It is easy to forget replacing the water does not replace the stuff in the water. With low stabilizer proportions and in a pinch, I have had some success increasing SWG % in my client's pools at night the same way you only add non-stabilized chlorine at night in a freshwater pool. In a world with rolling blackouts, keep the stabilizer proportion right for best SWG energy use. If CFL and LED light bulbs make sense to save a few watts, so does this.
Is a sand filter still necessary?
Some sort of filter is still necessary. It can be a cartridge, sand or a DE filter.
Great information
Thanks how often do you need to add the salt?
How often you add salt will really depend on how often fresh water (rain) is added to the pool and how often you have to drain water. My pool is 10k gallons and I had to add a 50 bag every other month between April and September. Outside of that, I have not had to add any.
Would like to go to salt but worried about the steel frame of the above ground pool. Was thinking about using pvc but don't think it would be strong enough. ?
Salt water can impact the steel top rails, plates, and rims. I'd switch those parts to resin if that's an option for your pool. Do you know the make and model of your above ground pool?
@@Inyopools it's an Intex pool. 15 foot
I have been handling chlorine for over 30 years with no problem. Chlorine dangerous to handle??? Give me a break with that BS, more dangerous to put gas in my lawnmower or snowblower. Believe what you want. I'm sticking with my current system. It is more important to learn how much liquid chlorine to add and when to add it based on the size of your pool, sun exposure,etc.
Maybe look at an extreme low-salt model running at 800ppm which is about the same as tap water. Australia has the Saltigem XSL model and a few others but there would be a competitive model somewhere in the your zone.
Rob really looks and sounds like Adam Neely here. They could be brothers!
Great video, thank you!
Great video guys but, please don't add pricing.
HI HOW TO INCREASE CL IN SALT WATER
CURRENT READING
PH 78 & CL 0.6
baby racing pH 78....
You basically ded boi
It’s not physically possible. Maximum pH is 14. He meant 7.8 which is ok
Wow, I can't believe you guys are still using inline cell housings. Here in Australia (millions of pools here!) we seem to be eons ahead technologically-speaking. A standard salt chlorinator here has side-entry housings and often vertical unions, reverse polarity (so massively minimised calcification), inbuild pH-control modules for acid feeder upgrade (either sensor driven or algarhythmic), digital timers with backup batteries, auto pump shutdown incorporated into gas sensors, detailed information onscreen, and more. That design you are showing is fundamentally flawed. I doubt you guys would be buying Australian Chlorinators, but at least look up North at the Canadian company Astral (or Fluidra, or Hurlcon, they have a few names) at their units, the E-series is good for the money.
Video is literally over three years old.. an awful lot's happened since then, in tech too 👀
I'm considering switching to salt, what are these systems you're speaking of? I'm sure we have access everything in the US. If anyone is familiar, I'd like some more info.
I would have to take out 3 mortgages to afford it if they brought that over.
1-3 PPM Chlorine and 70-80 PPM CYA will have algae growing in no time. Don’t you need high chlorine levels in a salt water pool? It should be around 9-10 PPM chlorine for the water to stay clean and sanitary at that level of CYA.
no
I have a salt water pool and maintain my chlorine at 1-3ppm with a CYA level between 50-70. No algae.
YOU GUYS GOT ME PUMPED THE FUCK UP!!!!
YEAAAA!!!!!!!
We had a saltwater pool. Everything rusted out.
Adding a sacrificial zinc anode to the system will prevent rust on any of the metals in the water. It may not help in every application. Steel above ground pools and old stainless steel filters seem to have an issue with salt systems.
I turned my above ground pool to salt. Big mistake. The wall started to rust around the skimmer. The top rails rusted and the edges would fall in the pool over the winter and rust stain the liner. My deck screws rusted and boards popped up. Huge mistake. I thought I would save money on chlorine and had to buy a new cell every other year anyway and still had to replace the pool within 9 years. Huge waste
SODIUM CHLORIDE - CHLORINE...
The world is full of first class DA's
Chlorine at HomeDepot today..... 18 bucks for 2 gallons. The price has doubled. Hence I'm here.
The prices are skyrocketing. I was just at Home Depot yesterday and a box of 4 gallons was $36. I'm pretty sure it was around $15 last year.
@@Inyopools my salt is ready, power supply is here, just waiting on the chlorinator. PH is all set. thnx for taking the time to make the videos.
Can you float on the salty pool?
Yes, you can float in a salt pool.
@@Inyopools are you sure?
@@KingPope13 the saltier the water ... the easier you float
With most pool salt water systems you are running about 3000ppm, the ocean water is about 35000ppm.
how to shift if chlorine now ? CL is ok so throw in 10 bags of salt to dissolved first; then turn on ?
Loaded with dodads! Everyone goes runnin when they see a dodad in the pool! ;)
Afternoon gentlemen, I think you need to go and correct the Table that says zero calcium is in balance. It should be 150 at the bare minimum but 200 per industry-standard.
Thank you for the feedback. We usually recommend the industry-standard of 200 ppm of calcium.
W.O.W.
Inyo pools are the best pool distributor with high skilled Engineers
Running my pump for 24 hours costs me $13.00.
I have been cleaning pools for 27 years professionally. I will tell you what I tell my customers, you will never get back the money that you will spend putting in one of these systems. They are overpriced, and very misrepresented. This system will not sustain itself in hot climates. During the very hot summer months, you will still need to add liquid chlorine because of the increased humidity and bather load. Your ph levels will need to be adjusted on a weekly basis. You will be adding a lot of acid! On average of 1-2 quarts a week. I can tell you that it is almost impossible to maintain a chlorine level that is appropriate. Most of the time the chlor level is either to high or to low. Your salt cell will need to be cleaned and maintained as well.
Even listening to expenses listed by these gentlemen in the video, even at the prices a couple of years ago, it is much cheaper to have a professional pool service maintain your pool and you won't have to worry about personally handling the liquid chlorine. Salt cells now average twice the cost that they just quoted. Not to mention, you will also need to drain and refill your pool water every two years.
Some customers tell me that they like the way the pool water feels with the salt. You can add a bag or two of the salt to your current pool and have the same feeling. The comments about the skin and eye irritation is usually because the ph and alkalinity are out of balance. Those are adjusted with sodium bicarb to raise low levels, or acid to lower high levels. Both of which will irritate you.
Hello Tom - Thank you for the feedback. I live in Florida and have a salt system. My pool has never had an issue with keeping up with the chlorine demand in the hottest months of the year. The key is to oversize the salt system if you live in a warm climate. Oversizing the system will not only ensure that the chlorine demand is met, it also lengthens the lifespan of the cell. I do agree with you about the acid demand. I have to add a couple cups of acid once a week. As far as draining, I have not heard of having to drain a salt water pool every two years. On the other hand, pool owners who use chlorine tablets all the time occasionally have to partially drain the pool due to high CYA levels.
You will never get back anything when dealing with a pool. Why is the swg any different? A depreciating assett, so it comes down to how does the owner want to care for their pool.
For me nearly 15 years of maintaining my pool with a swg and had very little issues. Hard for me to go back to the old school.
what? Yeah you are a pool cleaner. You know nothing about pool chemistry and it shows. Explain why you would need to drain your pool every 2 years. Thats makes zero sense. I never had to drain mine and never had a problem maintaining a chlorine level. And no you cant add a bag or 2 of salt and have the same feeling of a salt water pool. Thats a ridiculous comment. And its a fact that chlorine pools do irritate swimmers even when the ph is perfect because he chlorine is much higher and is an irritant. I know at least 10 people that have salt pools and would never even think about getting a chlorine pool. You seem to make up these delusional problems that dont exist. Salt cells are twice what they quoted? The quoted 200-700. So you are telling me salt cells are 1400? LOL. The entire system is cheaper than that. My cell for a 40K gallon pool is $350. So that over say 5 year average is what? $70 a year. Pool service is anywhere from 150-400 a MONTH. Do research if you dont have a clue. Ok kiddo?
@@Executiveinvestments- wow appreciate that comment!
John C it’s true. Salt is the way to go. I’m in the northeast but my brother is in southern Florida. Most people in his area have salt pools. The people that don’t have a salt pool don’t because they never heard of a salt pool and or never have been in one. I was sold first time I was in one. Zero chlorine smell, zero salt taste. Tastes like fresh water.
A saltwater pool is a chlorine pool.But salt is a bad thing to introduce to your pool and equipment due to it's extreme corrosiveness.
Salt pools is no good. salt is a water softener having a salt pool you still need a chlorine sticks. Servicing pools over 20 years
James Ervin as with anything, it’s probably best not to paint with such a broad brush. Right James? Some people may see more benefits than other from switching while others would see more benefit staying away from a salt system. It’s a very case-by-case type of deal...
1.) "Salt pools is no good." FALSE. My salt water pool is very good, thank you very much.
2.) "salt is a water softener". FALSE. A salt water generator can not soften water. Why? Because it doesn't remove calcium. Calcium harness primarily dictates the softness of your water. Adding salt does nothing to this process. A true water softener physically removes calcium by binding them to resin and rinsing the binded ions (with salt brine or potassium) down the drain when full.
3.) "you still need a chlorine sticks". FALSE. More of a want, not a need if everything is balanced. This situation depends on the pool and the person who cares for it. Even when I start my pool up for the season, my SWG is more than capable of shocking the water. I have backup pucks and bleach at home (who doesn't have bleach at home anyway?) in case of an emergency.
Salt water pool owner for nearly 14 years. I wouldn't have it any other way.
James Ervin see what you did James, that dude typed a bunch. He mad bro.
Zepper2019
I tried to warn him. Let’s find out where he works and get him fired. The only logical conclusion.
Agree 100% with you. I have been handling chlorine for over 30 years with no problem. Chlorine dangerous to handle??? Give me a break with that BS, more dangerous to put gas in my lawnmower or snowblower. Others can believe what they want.