Pentair Intellichlor Salt Water Chlorine Generator Operation
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 июн 2018
- A short to the point video explaining the functions of the Pentair Intellichlor system. This is the newest generation as of this date, some older units may not have all the functions or led's.
Openings, closings and everything in between, call Bob's Pool Service at 732 251 0951 for all your in-ground swimming pool needs in Central NJ.
Website: www.bobspoolservice.com
Facebook: / bobs-pool-service-2183...
![Corvette Vs Mustang Cobra [ BeamNG]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6kY_9Hv2pL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for an excellent explanation. I read the manual, however you told us things not in the manual and made them simple. Very helpful video.
Excellent video. Good explanation of all the features, and not too long. Thanks!
Thank you for THOROUGHLY explaining how the chlorine generator works and all the nuances of operation.
Thank you soooo much! I've looked everywhere for directions (on their website) with no luck. Thanks for explaining so clearly.
Really glad it served to help out. I'm a visual/hands on person myself so I totally understand how watching a video makes learning easier. This is the talk I generally have with all of my customers after we install a new unit.
Thank you so much for this. Very helpful.
Very nice video. I learned some things about explaining the units functions during consultations.
Very easy to understand and I appreciate the assistance. Thank you
Great information! Very clear and helpful. Thank you for posting!!!!
Thank you so much for this information. I had no idea why sometimes the cell light was green and sometimes off. Great explanation!
Yeah, that's a bit confusing how it works. We get several calls a year saying it's "blinking" when it's merely turning on and off. Glad I was able to explain it.
Excellently executed. Hat off.
Thank you so much for these great details!
Wow! what a great video Bob. Thanks a lot!
Awesome informative video. Just installed a new pool and my pool school guy didn't explain this device nearly as good as you.. Thanks
Glad it helped
Oh my gosh thank you! My cell has been driving me nuts with the low output mode glad I checked RUclips before putting in a service call!
Outstanding video, very informative.
Thank you for this video. I had a hard time finding information on the Cell light going on for a period then going off. I knew it wasn’t ‘flashing’ but wanted to understand the behavior. On when producing chlorine, off when not. Your video helped explain this section of the owners manual:
0% No LEDs lit - No chlorine produced - IntelliChlor SCG is off.
2% 1 LED blinking Produces chlorine for 64 seconds of every hour.
4% 2 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 127 seconds of every hour.
6% 3 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 16 seconds of each 5 minute period.
8% 4 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 21 seconds of each 5 minute period.
10% 5 LEDs blinking Produces chlorine for 27 seconds of each 5 minute period.
20% 1 LED solid Produces chlorine for 53 seconds of each 5 minute period.
40% 2 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 106 seconds of each 5 minute period.
60% 3 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 159 seconds of each 5 minute period.
80% 4 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 212 seconds of each 5 minute period.
100%5 LEDs solid Produces chlorine for 265 seconds of each 5 minute period.
Thanks for all the technical info Adam, I wasn't aware of these exact production times, even a seasoned pool guy can learn from his viewers. I would have though all 5 LED's would be 300 seconds but I guess it needs a break and shuts down for a short duration. Having installed and used all the different brand SWCG I still prefer the Pentair over all others, it may not have things like a salt PPM readout but overall we find the units have a much smaller failure rate than some other popular brands. Glad you found the video helpful and thanks for the comments.
This was great I was getting ready to take this chlorinator in for servicing because it was flashing 100% on the lower scale and your video clarified why it was doing this. Keep up the awesome work!
Glad the video helped!
Excellent video on this unit. Thank you for the great and easy details for the operation!
Glad you liked it!
You are awesome! I had mine flashing at 2% and wasn’t sure how to get back up to solid green. Thanks for taking the time to make this video
Yes, the literature isn't always great and prior models didn't have this feature either. Glad the video solved your question.
@@BobsPoolService Question my system is stating that my salt is low. Do I add it to the pool and then hit the buttons simultaneously so it can channel through the system?
@@BobsPoolService All my lights are like yours accept my salt is basic red and the last row is all solid green all the way up to 10%
What type of salt should I use for my system?
@@GodisAlwaysLove you should have the water checked with an accurate salt meter and then add the appropriate amount of salt. The salt is added directly to the pool, let it circulate for 48 hours to get mixed up into the water and the red light should turn to green showing proper salt levels in the pool. You don't need to do anything with the IC 40 to activate the salt. Hope this helps.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Your video helped me tremendously. I hadn't understood the flashing lights versus the solid lights when it comes to chlorine output. I couldn't figure out why my chlorine was so low on my new unit. Pentair was zero help.
Glad it helped, even as a pool pro I've found the literature included with many products to be confusing. I'm a visual learner myself.
Great video and to the point!! I needed a little refresher this season. Also, if you hold the more button it will give you the life left of your cell.
Yes, it definitely will tell you how much life has been used used up. They're rated for about 10,000 hours of operation. We've had really good experiences with the Pentair units overall and a few are going on over 8 years and still working perfectly.
Great info, thanks!
Great explanation!!
Good video informative!
Thanks for making this video. Big help!
Glad it helped!
Great video! Really explains how this darn thing works! Thanks!
Great information here!!!
Thank you so much this was very helpful turns out that my pool guy turned off my salt cell and my pool was green I shocked the pool and this video helped me fix my pool THANK YOU
Glad the video explained it for you!
Thank you for this great tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the knowledge !!!
Good simple explanation
So helpful! 👍 I worked for a pool company for 15 years and knew my chlorine pool inside and out. But last Sept 2022 I switched to a salt water pool, and wow, this is a whole new ballgame! My salt cell has a constant red light on low. I'm hoping I just have to add some salt and that nothing is wrong with the salt cell seeing that it's only 7 months old? 😊
I'd check the salt with an accurate meter to make sure the cell isn't reading it incorrectly. If you just opened the pool and get rain it can be common to have low salt levels, we often need to add 300 lbs of salt in the spring time.
Great Video!!
Excellent, thank you!
Thank you! I now understand WTF is meant by a "salt water pool" and what's going on with my salt cell - previous owner ignored it and just added chlorine. Big help, thank you!
So you CAN put chlorine in your salt pool, the salt cell simply produces chlorine by electrolysis of the salt water. However, I wouldn't have an automatic chlorinator on the same system with the salt cell, it would eat it up.
@@BobsPoolService right now the pool doesn’t have salt in it and is just being treated as a normal chlorine pool - cell flashing low salt. I’ll test the cell when I’m there next and decide if I want to use it or not. At least I now understand how it works and the mystery of “salt pools” I kept seeing advertised!
Thanks needed a quick 101 and this helped!
Excellent, glad it was helpful.
@@BobsPoolService Yes I have my own pool service out here in CA and most of my customers have Salt Cells. So although I understand them I needed that extra course. Thanks again
Thank you very helpful
Awesome video! Thank you so much for all of that. I would have loved to see some comments on what settings should be maintained for XX gallons/size of pool. Maybe another video? :)
Hey Travel Geek, I wish I could do that but there's SO many variables a video like that would be of little use. Every pool and situation has a different demand and that can also vary with weather, shade and even as the units get older. What I can say is if you can afford the larger models it behooves you to upsize as much as possible, I've putting IC60 units on 25,000 gallon pools, with the new design you can turn them down to very small percentages and by oversizing your cell will always be enough and also last longer. The amount of time the customer runs the pump also has to be taken into account. Typically when I install a unit I set it to 60% output and have the customer check to see if the chlorine level is building or falling then adjust the unit accordingly. It's too bad self monitoring setups aren't practical for home use, they are made but maintenance and cost is extremely high so it only works for high end commercial applications.
@@BobsPoolService Thanks, Bob, for taking the time to answer my question. Very insightful! Cheers, -L
This was super helpful! Now I just need to know how to clean it.
I'm glad it was helpful, I haven't made a video on cleaning for the reason that it involves somewhat hazardous acids that if handled improperly could be dangerous, for example if you add water TO acid it can react and explode, you need to always add the acid to the water yet I've seen many instructional cleaning videos on youtube where the company did it incorrectly. The instructions for cleaning/acid washing are in the manual but frankly there's a "feel" do cleaning the cells, you don't want to use more acid than necessary because it shortens the life of the cell yet you do want to have it cleaned regularly so it functions efficiently and you don't get a situation with a lot of scale and built up material. We clean the cells for most of our customers over the winter and return the cells in the spring time when we open the pool.
@@BobsPoolService i worked in a dupont chem lab and one of the old timers used to say "acid in the water like ya oughter"
Great tutorial
Thanks and glad it helped!
Appreciate the video - I just installed the new cell and it's on a continuous pump. Do I need to add a timer or can I set the chlorine production level lower and achieve the same results?
The newer pentair units can be set to a very low percentage, many of our customers run their pumps 24x7 and do not have an issue with overproduction. I have never seen a chlorine generator hooked to a stand-alone timer however when we install them we always hook them to the load side of the timer (or other device) that powers the pump. If you look at the install manual it also depicts this configuration.
thank you very much ;-)
Thanks for the video. It is very informative. What happens when cell light is not on?
It just means it isn't producing chlorine at that moment, it will cycle on and off to show when it's active. If it NEVER comes on something is wrong. If you want to check, turn your cell up to 100% output and the cell light should come on and stay on.
@@BobsPoolService thanks fir the quick reply.
Well done video. Short into the point! One question if I had a chlorine pool where I had to add chlorine tablets can I convert it to a saltwater pool by simply installing one of the salt generators?
You absolutely can. Something a lot of people don't realize is salt water generators PRODUCE chlorine and "salt" pools are indeed chlorine pools. The only thing I wouldn't do is have a chlorinator on the system along with the salt cell because the acidic fumes from the trichlor tablets can ruin the plates inside there. When we install these generators we generally remove the chlorinator for the system and often even put the generator cell where it used to be. Also if you get a salt system keep any granular chlorine you may have, in fact it's always good to have granular or liquid on hand for shocking the pool. Even though the cell has a "boost" mode it's not the same as shocking where you get that strong initial dose all at once. It's akin to going to the ER and getting an IV versus pills for antibiotics, that strong dose can destroy algae. I hope this helps.
Thank you.
Your explanation of “cell” being ON GREEN or OFF GREEN really helped. I recently set it to 20% lowest setting and was freaking out because the green went to off. Now I realize it means to only turn in 20% of the time. I have a 33k gallon pool and have the IC40. I also have the salt generator hooked up to the same electrical timer / circuit as the filter - is this recommended? Or should it be on its own timer? Also, does a higher PPM of Salt generate more chlorine? Thank you.
So your two questions in here, first your unit is hooked up correctly if it's coming on with the pool pump timer. There is a flow switch inside the unit to prevent it from coming on when there's no water flow but I wouldn't depend on that so you're good with your installation. Second, will the higher PPM generate more chlorine? In short, yes, also warmer water will also make the system more efficient but typically warmer water requires more sanitizer so generally it works out to be equal. I wouldn't put in more salt however to regulate chlorine generation, just keep the level at the recommended 3400 ppm and you should be good. Not many people (or sometimes pool stores) have an accurate calibrated meter so oftentimes we're working within an acceptable range not an absolute value. Hope this helps!
Outstanding video Sir ...On the older IC40 units ..Does the water temp designed to operate the same way as the new models ?
The old and new operate the same but on the really old units there's no "cold water" LED, it simply doesn't produce. I believe this confused people which is why they added it. The old units also didn't allow turning down the production less than 20%, it lacked the mode to go into less power.
Thank you Sir for your correspondence on this issue…
Hi! Your video is amazing. But I need help. We opened our pool and all our chemicals are in line but out chlorine is super low. And we haven’t added stabilizer, algeacide or clearifer yet. Only added Alka plus and ph plus, shock and salt bags. (We had our water tested at the shop) My system shows “low salt” we added 3 bags of salt, and just turned the system on, should we keep the sanitization button at 100% ? The weather is warm but not that warm. Will it still generate salt into chlorine? Does weather affect it ? How long should I keep it on for ?
Upon opening a pool that's sat all winter without chlorine I always recommend shocking the pool with a granular chlorine like Calcium Hypochlorite or liquid chlorine (bleach). I would not recommend keeping the sanitation button at 100%, think of a salt generator for slow release and maintainer not a way to shock the pool. If the system says low salt it won't generate chlorine, my suggestion is to run the system for 36 hours before adding salt though because the water in your pool need to mix and homogenize to get an accurate reading. Checking the salt level with a myron meter or strips is more accurate than using the lights on the Pentair system to determine how much salt you need to add. If your intellichlor is set at 100% something is amiss, either your chemistry is off, you're not running the system long enough, the cell is undersized for the pool or the cell needs cleaning or perhaps replacement. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the video and explaining everything. Have you experience one of these salt generators not allowing to change the sanitizer output? I’ll press more or less and it won’t adjust. If I press and hold less or more the lights will move but then after a few seconds it’ll just go back to 80%. Seems like mine is just stuck at 80%…
I had one where the button went bad like that but that's out of 100's we see so pretty obscure case. I even ripped it apart to see if it was repairable but inside the unity everything is potted in some kind of a resin making none of the parts under that panel replaceable. Of course the flow sensor can be changed but that's about it. That's unfortunate... sometimes I have noticed the less and more buttons can be quite hard to press and might take extra pressure to activate. I don't know if this would work for you but you could just keep yours at 80% where it's stuck and vary your filter timer to get correct output if it falls inside 8 to 24 hours or runtime, you could also wire in another timer to turn the power center for the cell on and off if you wanted to regulate it that way. When the cell is set to 80% it isn't like the power or output varies, much like a thermostat it simply toggles it on and off every few minutes so its' on 80% of the time. You may want to reach out to Pentair and see if they'll do anything for you although their warrant varies depending on if you bought it online for from a dealer. We've had very few units fail under 3 years which is the maximum warranty period and most of the failures were either a bad flow switch or the fuse inside the power center went out from an electrical surge. We get a few calls every time after a big thunderstorm hits with "dead" units, I carry 10A fuses of each style in our work truck. Hope this helps, sorry your unit is giving you problems.
@@BobsPoolService thank you for your response. It’s unfortunate that I may have a faulty device. I’ll look into wiring a timer on it. I appreciate the insight and you taking the time to explain! You’re very kind.
Thanks for the video. I just had my water tested and my chlorine is at zero. I took the cell off and cleaned it although there really wasn’t any buildup on the unit at all. All the lights are green and it says it’s good. I held the “More” button down for three seconds to read the life of the unit. It went to 80%. My pool is starting to get cloudy. Does it sound like the unit is going out? Would it be normal for the unit to be above 8000 hours and still read that the cell is okay? I moved into this house last July so I’m not exactly sure how old the cell is but it probably is around 5 years old.
Generally the units last about 5 to 7 years in our experience if you are able to put in the spacers for sale to bypass the unit and get power to it you can test it by placing it in a 5 gallon bucket of water and holding down the flow switch with a wooden dowel if you see bubbles in the bucket and of course the water is chlorinated you know your cell is still working
Is there a difference in keeping it on 100% & boost function other than it reverting to original settings within 24hrs. I have a hotel pool that just don’t seem to keep up with the necessary Chlorine. Is high cyanuric acid preventing it that much? Thanks for the informative video
100% boost doesn't increase the power any more than turning it up to 100% by just hitting the up buttons, it simply prevents someone from accidentally leaving it up that high. If you're having problems maintaining enough chlorine I would check first that the unit is sized correctly, I like to size them 1/3 larger or more. For example a 25,000 gallon pool I'd use an IC40 on which is rated for 40,000 gallons. For a 40K pool I'd use an IC60. As for the cyanuric acid, yes, if it's high it can create a situation where the chlorine has to very high to maintain the pool and keep it free of algae. It's one of those things where the right amount is important, too much causes issues. The only way to really get that out is drain some water and replace it. Also check your pH, if the pH is too high that makes chlorine less effective but of course don't let it get too low or you'll have eyes burning and corrosive issues. Lastly check the life of the cell, you can do this by pressing and holding the more button for 3 seconds. The lights should scroll through and leave a few of the percentage lights lit up. The amount of lights corresponds to the amount of life used. If the first three lights are lit (20, 40, and 60%) then you’ve used 6,000 hours of the expected 10,000.
Excellent training video. But what does it mean when all lights are off, does that mean my intellichlor is done? Needs to be replaced?
Make sure there's power going to the transformer, also the bayonet connector where the cord goes into that can be a failure point. Lastly there's a fuse inside the power center, I'd check that too. It's possible your cell is dead but it's more likely it's not receiving power.
Thank you for this video! helped me out so much, I just got this installed and also just opened the pool. My salt PPM was 0 so salt level low I added enough to get it to go green. But I noticed that it was doing "the dance" 100% for 24hrs and stuff was coming out of the returns, this like a cloudy mist leaving a white almost soapy thing on top of the pool, the minute I went back to 20% it stopped. Any idea why that happened?
Usually something that forms on the top of the pool like that is a reaction between chemicals most often caused by algaecides. There's really nothing in the saltwater chlorine generator that would produce that. The only thing you do see sometimes are small bubbles coming out when it's on because it's producing chlorine gas.
@@BobsPoolService thank you for the response....can a pool heater react with algaecide? Soon as I turned on the heater got those white suds on top of the pool.
@@andyreinoso6139 Not sure if a heater can react with it but I've seen running the system turn a pool into a gray bath of bubbles. The only algaecides I really think are worth using are polyquats.
Great video! Recently I have had an issue where pushing the “less” button doesn’t work. It’s stuck at 60 percent and won’t go down lower. Any recommendations? I tried cutting power to the unit and restarting but no change.
That sounds like the button itself is the issue. Unfortunately there's no way to replace it, the entire unit inside there is potted with a compound (I cut one apart once to look inside). I've seen a few units where I really had to press the button firmly to get it to change. If the unit is under warranty I'd reach out to your installer, if not or if it's over 5 years old you may just want to consider changing the cell. Last option would be to put the generator on a timer to reduce the output but that might be fairly difficult depending on how it's wired.
Cool thanks
Great video! Quick question: my unit is displaying solid red ‘Low’ however my local pool store said my salt level was good. Will it stay red until it detects 3600ppm? All other indicators functioning properly. Thanks!
You probably need to change the sensor, it's connected to the flow sensor and they sell a kit with wire connectors. It should not be red unless you're under 2700ppm. Is your water cold? if it is that could also cause this. There's a temp sensor built into the flow switch that may have gone bad.
@@BobsPoolService thanks for the advice. Probably need to change the sensor since the water isn’t cold, all other lights are green as expected and my water tested at salt levels of 3400ppm
Amazing
I am trying to boost or increase the sanitizer output. I hold the less/more down simultaneously and it will do the dance once, but then turn back to what it’s set on (6%/60%). It is this one with the cold water function. While I’m trying to do this, salt level is solid green.
Is it a stand-alone installation or do you have an automated controller? If it's the former then likely the unit has a problem but in the latter (automated controller) it may not allow adjustment on the unit itself. I've never see one do this.
Thanks for the great video. If I turn the sanitizer output all the way down, does that mean the system is "off" for purposes of adding salt to the pool and waiting the recommended 24 hours?
Yes, that should be sufficient or if you find it easier you can just unplug the cell from the power center. We generally don't change the cell setting when adding salt but we never add salt through the skimmer or put it directly into the system, we're careful to spread it across the shallow end of the pool and not push it towards the drains. The salt dissolves naturally this way and usually takes about 2 days of running the system for it to homogenize with the water.
@@BobsPoolService got it thank you! Owning a pool can be frustrating at times but folks like you make it a bit easier.
Our former pool guys who did an awesome job last year left us to dry this year from being understaffed (being understaffed I'm totally empathetic to of course, lack of communication in telling me they wouldn't be coming by anymore after doing the opening, less so).
So new pool guys are coming tomorrow and I'm trying to get it as clear as possible so they can vacuum. Glad to know in the meantime I can effectively shock the pool at least while I wait for the salt I dumped to dissolve!
Thanks for the kind words, we really do want people to enjoy their pools, sadly that's not always the case. We can totally relate to staffing problems, it's become very difficult to find qualified people to work for us and putting someone on a job without experience can often be worse than just giving up new clients. Right now I think every pool company worth their salt is in this same situation with more work than they can possibly do. Good luck with your new pool guys, hopefully they work out and yes, if your salt system ever goes down just put some liquid chlorine (bleach) in the pool until it's operating again. Salt systems really just produce chlorine from the salt so it's totally compatible with chlorine and in fact IS a chlorine system. Just don't do something like put tablets inside the skimmer, they're highly acidic and that could damage the plates on your cell, use a floater or better just use liquid or granular until your salt system is once again working.
question regarding VS pumps - what is the lowest rpm on the pump for you to get flow? when i am running low speed i dont get a green light for flow, wondering what speed i need to be at. thanks
That's a good question that I don't think could be answered as simply as a percentage of max pump speed, it would also depend on back pressure of the system, absolute flow and perhaps the spring tension of the sensor inside the unit to a small degree. I'd experiment with my VS pump and a clean or dirty filter and see where it shows a green light then plan a safe percentage above that to insure it's enough.
Things to remember with a salt cell they don't actually measure salinity they measure the continuity of water. The continuity of water changes with water temperature, so never add salt or drain to lower salt level without performing a standalone salt test. Otherwise the salt level will be too high or too low when swim season starts
Absolutely true, the cells give a rough idea but we always use our Myron meter to get accurate readings. Another BIG mistake people make is in the spring time they test the water before letting it circulate and homogenize thus measuring the rainwater that's stratified and laying on top! If you take a sample from a pool that's been covered all winter, expecially with a mesh style cover it will read close to 0 salt. Still we have some clients that want us to test the water when we open the pool but doing so is a terrible practice and inaccurate. I suggest just adding a shock and letting the pool circulate for 48 hours before making any adjustments to the chemistry.
Which direction should cell go on if the tubing was put in vertical? Always have put flow word going towards pool even though it's pointing to ground and words are upside down. Changes last year so flow sign went towards sky and called pentair and said I needed a new cell? It's 4 yrs old, I'm putting on today so it's backwards like the yrs proir to last year to see if that was it, Your thoughts??
Vertical or horizontal the flow arrow has to point towards the pipe going TO the pool. Sometimes this can mean the unit appears upside down but that is how it has to be. We often do a bit more plumbing so the cell can sit horizontally or at least with the text not inverted but some installs are tight and it has to be that way.
what happens when both the green and red are flashing for the salt level?? I noticed the pool guy has left the sanitizer at max all 5 lights are solid on? thank you Lanny
When the lights are all flashing like that it's doing a self check, sort of a boot up phase. Once it's on though for 10 minutes or more that should settle in and stop, if not something could be wrong.
1:08 - are you referring to the “Low” light at this point? Otherwise, you skipped that one. And mines lit lol. I’m assuming I’m out. How often should these run low? This was installed brand new last fall, “Low” is lit at opening this year. Does that sound reasonable?
How much salt you lose over the winter all depends on the type of cover you have and amount of rainfall. If you have a solid cover that doesn't let any rain through and you keep it pumped off so rainwater never accumulates on the top (and displaces pool water) you will lose no salt over the winter unless your pool has a leak. On the other hand if you have a mesh cover or even a solid cover and allow water to accumulate on top displacing the pool water over the winter you will lose salinity. Also make sure you run your system for a full 48 hours before testing the salinity, what tends to happen is rainwater is less dense than salt water and will just sit on the stop stratified, if you take a sample you'll find it reads extremely low. Once the system runs and homogenizes the water you'll get an accurate reading. For pools here in New Jersey with mesh covers I'm finding almost all of them are opening with about 2200ppm of salt necessitating adding another 1200ppm, for most pools that's about 8 bags of salt. As for the lights they are a warning that it's too low for the system to operate but it behooves you to take a test and actually measure the salinity before calculating and adding salt to the pool. Hope this helps.
Great video.. If I may ask two questions. why % should that sanitizer output be on.. Mine is at 80% but you have yours on 40%....
and my biggest question is my flow light and all lights area green in the morning when the system comes on, BUT after 1.5 hours the flow from the jets is almost coknmpletetly off and that flow light comes on red and stays red. The pool is only 3 years old and we just bought this house so this is all new... The pool guys have been out here a number of times and can't figure it out... (tossing faith in these guys although they built this system and pool)... they have take n flaps off the skimmer, level is good,... I can only get the jets on by turning the filter button off, waiting 2 mins and then turn it back on.. The system lights are all green and the jets work for 1.5 hours and then back to red and no jet water.....
We tried to back wash and no water came out... Do you think the system is a dud?
So for your first question, nobody can say what percentage it should be set at because there are so many variable, size of the pool, demand for chlorine, amount of sunlight and how often you run the system. If you cell is at 100% however all the time something isn't right, either the system is undersized or you're not running the filter long enough or your chemisty may be off. As for your second question if you're losing flow after 1.5 hours that sounds like your filter is getting clogged up, if it's a sand filter sometimes changing the sand will help and backwashing but if it's DE or cartridge the element may need an acid wash or replacement. I'm surprised you pool guy isn't figuring it out, most flow problems are a clogged pump impeller or an obstruction such as a clogged filter. There's way too many variable to diagnose youtube however.
Wonderful Video! Thank you! My system is showing Cold water system off, but the temperature is 68 degrees. Has anyone seen this happen?
That light shouldn't come on unless the water is 52 degrees plus or minus 3 degrees of accuracy. There's a thermistor inside the flow switch that measures the temperature and I'm guessing it's gone bad. If the cell is older than 5 years you may want to just replace the entire cell.
Thank for the video. My ispection cell light blinking green, i have cleaned the cell and put it back in service but the light still flash
Inspection cell light continues to blink green after i clean the generator cell
You may need a new cell especially if it's over 4 years old.. If it's a fast blinking there is a problem, i would contact a local pool company and have them look at it.
What does it mean when the "good and low" lights for salt content are both flashing simultaneously and the flow light is also solid red? I know i have adequate flow, the pool strainer and pump strainer are clear and the cartridge filter is clean. I have the IC15 model for a small plunge pool. Could it just be a bad flow switch or does the salt content lights both flashing mean something else?
I've only seen that behavior on start up, typically when the power to the pump is turned on so it the power to the salt cell and it's normal to have the salt lights blinking as you describe, however after 5 minutes or so it should settle in and stop. If it doesn't I would check the flow switch, in rare instances I've seen the paddle break off that senses the water coming through the unit.
great video did did you discuss diagnostic mode?
diagnostic mode: by pressing MORE button 3 seconds
I did not discuss it because it goes beyond the scope of this video. Moreover, some of the features that used to be available in such modes along with some of the calibration process has changed over the years depending upon the model year. Some things have also been totally eliminated.
this was just a simple operation video and the manufacture changes things like diagnostic mode over the years as well.
Not yet.
Great video All my lights are green, but the "Cell" light under Status goes off from time to time. It doesn't blink, just goes from solid green to off when the cell is running. I have output set to 40%. My free chlorine is registering low. Do I need to bump to 60%? What does the Cell light mean when it shuffles between solid green and completely off? Thank you.
Additionally, I've recently cleaned the cell and it was installed mid last summer.
It is normal for the cell light to turn on and off but not blink under normal operation in simply telling you when it's illuminated that the unit is generating chlorine at that time
Hey nice video. I want to turn my salt cell off for 24 hours as I ad salt. I can’t get mine lower than 20% ?
Hey Joe, sorry for the delay, we've been crazy busy with work. To answer your question if you keep hitting the less button the led's should blink putting you into the 2-10% range unless you have a much older cell, those only went down to 20%. You can tell by looking at the cell, if it has 2 cales, 2-10% and 20-100% once you're at 20% just keep pushing the "less" button and it should go to the low range. Another way to totally turn off the cell is simply unplug the connector from the power center, there's a ring that rotates counterclockwise then the connector will just pull out.
after I cleaned my cell, how do I get the clean cell notice off the panel and how do I get the green cell light to stop flashing? Thought it would reset itself?
Hi Sherri there is no reset per se and if the cell is still flashing that would be indicative of either a worn-out cell that needs replacement or perhaps a more aggressive cleaning as needed. How old is the cell? Up here in the Northeast we found most cells last anywhere from 5 to 7 years but we have a season which is only about half the year. I would suggest visually inspecting the plates inside with a flashlight if there's still build up or scale on them you may want to try a stronger acid washing.
I have a Pentair Pool Chlorinator (Model: Intellichlor IC40). The flow and salt level lights are green yet the unit is not producing chlorine. I need to add liquid chlorine every 7 days to prevent green algae growth. I understand that there may be a couple of parts within the unit that could have failed and need to be replaced? The unit is only 3 years old.
Hey Kelley, there aren't many parts inside the cell itself that are replaceable, the flow switch certainly is but beyond that the entire cell is generally swapped. You should really remove your cell and inspect it to make sure you don't have scale or buildup on the plates, also if you have a pool that's 30,000 gallons or more and the IC-40 you need to make sure the system is run long enough to allow it to have time to produce enough sanitizer for your pool. Be sure your pH isn't too high and check your chemistry as well, not enough cyanuric acid (stabilizer) can cause a higher demand for chlorine in the presence of UV light. I'm certainly not a representative for Pentair but having installed Pentair, Hayward, Jandy and other brands of generators they have been by far the least problematic and with proper annual cleanings generally last our customers 7 seasons. The most common repair we do on these units are the fuse in the power center blows (usually after a thunderstorm we get the call) or in some rare instances the metal arm that holds the flow switch breaks off requiring that part to be replaced. If you found you're running your system on a higher output setting when the unit was new you may want to consider the IC-60 instead of another IC-40 for your next replacement. All the units do essentially the same thing but the larger units have more plates inside and are capable of producing more chlorine in the same time period with the added benefit that the larger unit will generally last long as well. The only time putting a larger unit on a pool can be a problem is if you're not able to regulate the chlorine output low enough for a given pool but with that said we have put IC-60's on 20,000 gallon pools without issues. Hope this helps, definitely inspect your cell and clean as necessary.
Just had a big storm so had to drain the pool a bit to get the level down. Now the low light is red, but the cell light still goes green meaning it's producing chlorine right, thought if the salt was low and red it wouldn't produce chlorine? I added 2 bags of salt waiting for it to get back to green.
I didn't think they'd produce chlorine if red, i'll have to see if the green cell light comes on next time I run into that situation. Maybe in some cases it can if it's not TOO low in salt and just under where it turns red.
Great video review ! What if the lights under salt level keeps going from green “good” to “red” low … back and forth
That's just part of the start-up routine, it should settle in and stop doing that back an forth thing after a few minutes. I should have included that in the video.
Thx for the reply !! Yes I learned this the hard way as no one not even the manual had it .. and all this time I was thinking it might need more salt so I kept adding until someone said noooo you need to wait at least 3-4 min … I waited 1 min every time … at the end I had an extra bag of salt added , it’s not the end of the world but I definitely would have save more time :)
@@Richoecreate I always recommend testing the salt with strips or even a myron meter (expensive but accurate). The lights on the unit may give a rough idea even when working correctly but accuracy can drift. As a side note the salt level being a little bit high won't hurt anything, older salt systems required nearly double the salinity of new ones. I'd even surmise a slightly higher salt level makes the unit a bit more efficient, I know when salt is at the lower end of the operational range the units produce less chlorine at the same setting. We get serveral calls a year regarding the flashing lights, I make a point to demonstrate teh units we install with each customer but people forget, new homeowners move in, etc.
@@BobsPoolService thank you so much for taking the time to reply Bob I truly appreciate it ! This helps me !
What about if it keeps flashing for hours, not just 3-4 min? Thx!!
Does it have to be mounted in vertical position as manual says?
We mount them vertically and horizontally, can be oriented either way.
I bave a low salt indication red light. It is becoming winter and nobody is swimming. All I really want to do is run the pump at night not to freeze. The water is clear. Should I just wait until Spring, swimming season to add salt. Like I said I just want to run the pump. Thanks for any info. First time pool owner.
Have you considering closing the pool by putting on a cover and having the pipes/filter/heater winterized? Up here in NJ people generally close pools when they're finished for the seasons. If you live in a climate where you want to keep it open year round even if you're not using it you still need to maintain the water chemistry and sanitizer. If the water is too cold though your generator won't work so you'd need to add chlorine directly into the pool (granular or liquid). If the generator isn't indicating "cold water" though I'd add the salt now and use it. If you're closing the pool (covering it) then I would't add the salt until you open it but you should balance the chemicals, things like low pH can ruin liners and plaster.
Our inground pool is only 1 year old. The less/more buttons on our salt cell have recently become impossible to press - they are not responding to pressing. Any ideas on why this would happen? Thanks so much for your videos!
No, but I have noticed they need to be pushed quite hard. We're not the manufacturer but that is something I'll pass on since you're not the first person to say that.
What "Salt Water Chlorine Generator" to buy which can be control from my PLC home automation? thanks.
Sorry I don't have a good answer for this, we install 95% of them as stand-alone units and the other 5% with intellitouch controllers from the same company. Pool automation has been around for awhile but generally unless our customers have a genuine need I tend to steer them away, more complexity and more things to break, I'm also not a fan of the easily cut by landscaper wires that go to the sensors for on any installations, can't tell you how many calls I've gotten when a weed whacker took out those.
Can you help? My intellichlor says salt low (app says 1000), but Leslie's and a salinity tester I bought both say 5000+. How should I approach this? Algae has started so would it help to go through shock steps first and reassess or is my Intellichlor defintely toast? Thanks!
I would definitely trust the salinity tester readings over what the cell is reporting, I've seen this many times and it's caused people to put way too much salt in their pools, in fact I always suggest taking a reading of the water and never using the unit to check it. With that said, there's a couple of things I'd suggest doing, first see how many hours are on your unit, you can press and hold the "more" buttom for 5 seconds and it'll illuminiate the percentage of usage with the LED"s. Units last 10,000 hours, if all the LED are list or even 80% of them you're near the end of the cell's life. If the unit however is newer, I'd suggest removing the cell and doing a proper acid cleaning. If you google IC 40 acid cleaning you'll likely find the information, you can use muriatic acid or if you have the time even vinegar may work overnight. When you have it apart inspect the innards, see if you have scaling or something caught in between the plates. Hope this helps - Bob
my water temp is 45 and the cold water light is not on nor is the cell light on --- all of the other lights are the same as you have. A dealer told me that I need to put a dummy piece in to save its life but if it turns off is that not as good?
Well, anytime water is passing through something it will shorten it's life. If your water is only 45 degrees I can't imagine you're swimming in the pool or using it but I do understand you want to run the filter at least a few hours to keep the water clean and pick up debris. Are you intending to run the pool at these low temperatures for an extended period? Up here in my state most pools get winterized and closed in the colder months so wearing out the cell when it's not being used isn't something we've ever thought about. I have never heard that cold water in itself will wear out a cell any faster than warmer water but I do know they're less efficient when the water temperature is cold which is why the units don't try to produce chlorine below a certain temperature. If you're going to run the pool for months at temperatures where the system can't produce chlorine putting in a dummy cell which is just a piece of plastic with threads can't hurt but I think Pentair charges something like $50 for the piece. When we close pools and remove the cell unless the customer already owns a dummy cell we just plug the pipes with rubber winterizing plugs rather than sell this piece. We do have a few we keep for instances where a customer needs to have their generator serviced and in those cases we "loan" ours out and let the customer use it until the cell is serviced or replaced. Don't forget if you remove the generator or if it's too cold to function add chlorine to your pool and keep the level between 1 and 3 parts per million. If the water is cold enough algae usually won't grow but why take a chance if for some reason it warms up enough due to weather changes and then you could have a green pool.
So the a green cell light means its producing chlorine, so that doesn't have to be green all the time? Mine is like yours in the video, will go on when I switch from 20 to 40 for example and then shuts off.
The light will illuminate to green when it's actively producing chlorine. So if you set the output to 50% it would be illuminated green half the time and off the other half of the time.
So what's the optimal percentage for the sanitizer output? Mine is currently 60%. Thanks
Optimally for the life of the cell the lower the better, however you need to run the cell at a level where your chlorine is at 1 to 3 ppm and the only way to determine that is testing. Every pool is different and some systems are larger in relation to the given pool so it's impossible to say what percentage the unit should be at without running it and testing. Oftentimes if the level has to be raised upwards of 80% I suggest checking your chemistry and making sure that you're running the system enough hours of the day. If running the pump longer and good chemistry are observed then when you change the cell I would suggest a larger unit. There's 3 sizes of this model, the IC20, IC40 and IC60. For really large pools multiple units can be used.
If the Status is Cold Water, should the flow light or sanitizer output lights be lit or is all that "off" because of the Cold Water status? The water is 52 degrees.
The sanitizer light shouldn't come on but the flow light should be green when the pump is running properly. When it's too cold it won't turn on to produce sanitizer hence that light not being illuminated.
Is there a way to calibrate the salt level? It says low but took my water in to get tested and they said it's good
There is but only for older units, versions 1.9 and earlier, however be absolutely certain you've thoroughly cleaned the cell before re-calibration. I have yet to see one go out very far, also realize the cell is a rough estimate of your salt level, a tester will always be more accurate. Anyways, here are the steps:
Step 1
If the Intellichlor has been in operation for a few weeks, remove and acid clean the salt cell before field re-calibrating. This will give the most accurate starting point.
Step 2
Manually test the salt level with salt test strips or an electronic salt tester. If the salt level is in the proper range of 3000-4200, proceed to step 3. If not, adjust the salt level to the proper parameters before re-calibrating.
Step 3
With the pump running, verify the "Flow" light on the cell is green. This indicates good water flow through the cell.
Step 4
Press and hold the "More" button for 3 seconds to enter system status mode. All the lights will scroll across the panel, and then go dark. Only the "Power", "Cell", "Life", and "Low" lights will be lit.
Step 5
After a few moments, the "Good", "Add", and "Low" salt lights will begin to scroll, indicating the salt level is being read. It may take up to one minute to read the salt.
Step 6
The salt scrolling will stop and one of the salt lights will be displayed. The "Sanitizer Output 20%" light will turn on to indicate changes are now allowed. Press the "More" button to cycle through each salt level, and then press the "Less" button to choose and save the display as the new salt level. The "PWR", "Cell", "Life", and "Flow" lights will flash 4 times, then the mode exits to normal.
Step 7
The unit is now re-calibrated to the salt level of the pool. The display will now be normal, showing the output percentage, flow status, etc. The field calibrate mode will exit in 5 seconds if no buttons are pressed.
Hope this helps, sorry I didn't see your question until, sometimes youtube doesn't do alerts properly.
How does this receive power? Battery powered? Sorry if that's a silly question, I don't see any plugs in it to power the LEDs. And I know it must use more than batteries to do the salt to chlorine conversion. So I guess there is a wire somewhere.
Yes, there is a wire to power the unit. The system has two components, the cell (shown in this video) and the power center which is a stop down transformer that converts the 240 or 120 VAC down to 24 volts for safety reasons. The power center is wired into the load side of the timer or switch that operates the swimming pool circulation pump so the system only comes on if the pump is on.
What if your Salt Level has a green light on and a red light? I've had our water tested (today actually) and our salt level is fine, but for some reason our system isn't producing chlorine (we're at 0%). Our flow light is also blinking red, but I just backwashed and risned a few days ago and shocked it. Once place said the unit might need to be replaced and the other said it could be a fuse. Any thoughts?
Hello Heather. I doubt there's a fuse problem, the actual cell doesn't have a fuse, it's a sealed unit. There is a fuse in the transformer (the tan box the cell plugs into), however, if that fuse blows (which they do sometimes) you'd see no lights illuminated on your cell. You may want to take the unions off and inspect the cell, this should be done every 3 months and it should be acid cleaned if necessary. There's a possibility the flow sensor which looks like a little paddle that you'll see on the inlet side of the cell had broken off. Out of the 100 or so we install a season I'd say we see this happen on maybe 5% of the units by the 3rd year. Hope this is of some help, you may need to contact a local pool company to come out and look at it in person.
is it ok for the flow light to be green if the filter isnt running?
No that should not be happening.
Thanks for your video. My system keeps turning red for flow every time I try to vacuum. Why would that be?
Hooking up a vacuum always restricts the flow somewhat so the flow is likely enough when you have it hooked up to satisfy the flow sensor in your pentair unit. If it only turns red when you're vacuuming i wouldn't be too concerned if it returns to normal when you're done. There's a myriad of things that could be restricting your flow when vacuuming, the most common is air being introduced into the system through the plumbing or a leaky vacuum hose.
Thanks so much for your reply! Only problem is when it turns red it’s shutting off the pump and then I don’t get any suction to vacuum because it turns everything off. Any suggestions?
Is it possible the electrician wired it backwards and that’s why it’s turning of my pump? When I turn the pump off my Ic40 LED lights still stay on
I was able to do this using the Easy Touch panel, I couldn't get it to accept the changes manually. It kept defaulting to the current setup. I don't know if that helps anyone. It took me a bit to figure out. I don't know if it's because it's wired to only be configurable through the panel or if there are other install options without that panel. Idk. Thank you for the video, it was super helpful too.
Yes, if you have easytouch or any automated controls they override the unit itself. This video was just an explanation of the stand-alone units which are far more common at least in our area.
Ok I’m trying to do it manually and it is doing the same thing it won’t accept it. I’m going to keep trying thank you!
What should sanitizer output be set at?
Depends on a lot of factors, you'll need to check your levels with a test kit and then adjust the output accordingly. We generally oversize our systems somewhat for the pool and start around 40%, let it run 48 hours and test the water. This is usually based on a 12 hour pump runtime. the units do not self monitor.
My IC15 Pentair currently has the flow light is red and then after awhile turns green. The salt level lights are both flashing. The green light indicating a good level of salt and the low light is flashing red. I have cleaned the cartridge filters. There seems to be enough flow for the heater to work. Any suggestions?
A red flow light means the flow sensor isn't completing the circuit. If you indeed have sufficient flow and nothing is obstructing the sensor it could be going bad, it is a replaceable part. I can't say I've ever seen one "act up" though like that, usually the metal paddle deteriorates and it stops working totally staying red. Heaters generally work on pressure not flow so that isn't a reliable indicator, if there's something impeding the flow beyond the heater (return pipes to the pool eyeballs, etc) it will create enough pressure fo the heater t o fire however would not allow your IC15's flow sensor to establish a connection.
Our pool builder told us to keep the sanitizer output at 100%. Not sure why? Is this damaging to the system?
If the unit is undersized or you're not running the system for enough hours it's possible to have a situation where your unit has to be run at 100%. Other cause could be incorrect chemistry, ie too much or not enough stabilizer or high pH. What you should really do is TEST your water to see if you have proper chlorine levels with the unit running this way, if your water balance is good and your chlorine is between 1-3ppm then I suppose running it at 100% is ok, however that doesn't give you anywhere to "go" if you need more during hot months. Also note this video is for a standalone installation of the unit, NOT with automation so if you have one of those systems that could be why.
So if the top one is flashing green and the next one down is flashing red, does that mean the salt level is high? Just want to be sure I understood correctly! Thank you so much!!
No, actually that means it's booting up and calibrating itself, give it a few minutes and it should settle in. The top lights flash back and forth when it's in that process.
@@BobsPoolService thank you!
How do you determine what % the sanitizer output should?
You have to test the pool water and adjust accordingly. Also establish a consistent pump run time. If you increase your pump from 10 to 20 hours you're going to be producing 2x the sanitizer. I usually start ours at 40 - 60 percent then check the water in 2 days, if the chlorine is too high, I reduce the setting, too low and I increase it. There is no intelligence on the cells or monitoring of your water so you need to test it.
My cell was just cleaned, after they cleaned it it was fine but then the flow light went dead meaning it didn't turn on at all. They replaced the flow sensor and then tell me the cell is completely dead and need a new one. Which I don't understand, it has about 2200 hours of usage(North East here) so only use it for 4 months a year this would be my 3rd season. My flow light is off and the good and low salt level lights just keep flashing and neither stay stable. I have heard that I may need to add salt but idk is it completely fried? Waiting a call back from pool company.
Sounds like a lot of different things going on. I have seen a small percentage of flow sensors go bad prematurely. I can't speculate but hopefully the new sensor was installed correctly, it's a bit of a finicky process and pentair changed the design so not all sensors are universal now, I'm guessing because they wanted to put a stop to 3rd party knockoffs (which actually worked fine). I would test your salinity with a meter, don't trust what the cell says and go from there. Your flow light shouldn't be off, it should be green or red, if it's red I'd surmise the flow sensor still isn't working. As for the hours of usage 2200 would be very low, they're rated for 10,000.
I have this exact same pentair unit. Recently my pool started to become greenish/murky... I increased the level/boost to the max. 100% .. All my lights were green. However, after a few hours I went back and looked and my flow light turned red? What is causing this? It seems like if I bring it back to a lower level the flow light goes back to green. My pool is still murky and not as clean as it should be.
A red flow light means there isn't sufficient water going through the unit (often a clogged filter) or the flow sensor is bad. Since you said your pool was green likely the filter is going it's job catching that algae but it's getting clogged as a result and needs to be cleaned or backwashed.
all lights indicate chlorinating but no chlorine. water test good for salt. How do you tell if you need the chlorinator or the control box
The way we tested some units was put the unit in a bucket of water (with salt), hold down the flow switch and turn on the power to the cell, if you see bubbles it is working. If you have power though to the unit I don't believe your transformer is bad. The cells do have a lifespan fo 5-7 years, here in NJ with seasonal operation they seem to be lasting at least 7 for most of my customers.
All my lights are green, but my less button for sanitizer output isn’t doing anything. Do you think my cell is bad? So it’s stuck on 100% output right now.
If pushing the less button doesn't reduce the setting then the switch has probably gone bad, really try pushing it firmly, even move your finger around as you do. If this doesn't work then you'll need to replace the cell, the only part on the cell that can be changed out is the flow sensor, everything else is sealed and potted in a compound.