Pentair iChlor Salt Cell: What Do all the Lights Indicate? A Video Guide
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- The Pentair iChlor is a great salt water system and the control panel is very user friendly. There are al ot of different lights and functions so to clear things up for you I made a short video going over all of the lights and functions.
The Status LED indicates the following on the iChlor Salt System.
Cell Status: Shows the status of the iChlor.
Green: iChlor is operating normally and producing chlorine.
No Light: iChlor is off and not producing chlorine. It may be in an off-period of the sanitizing cycle and
will return on shortly. This happens if the percentage is set to less than 100%. If you set it at 20% the iChlor will be running for 12 minutes every hour and off for 48 minutes. So the cell light will be off when it is not producing during that time. There is nothing wrong with the unit.
Red: iChlor is in “Standby” mode (system off, no chlorine production) due to a cold water condition. The iChlor will resume to normal operation mode, including salinity report, once water temperature rises above 52° F (11° C). In this mode, the display will read “COLD” to indicate the condition. The salt cell will not function or produce salt in water temperatures below 52° F (11° C).
Short Red Flash: Unit has detected a malfunction on the temperature sensor, and will indicate it with
short red flashes either while the cell is off (LED off), or while the cell is ON (Green LED). The unit will
continue normal operation, but salinity indication might not be accurate until flow switch is replaced.
Green (Flashing): iChlor needs to be inspected. The blades may have calcium buildup or any other
condition that cause a lack of conductivity. The iChlor is not producing chlorine.
In this mode, the display will read “CELL” to indicate the condition. Clean the salt cell at this time to remove the calcium build up.
Flow Status: This light indicates the status of water flowing through the iChlor.
Red: Insufficient water flow through the iChlor, no chlorine is being produced.
Green: Sufficient water flow to produce chlorine.
Short Flickering: Short flickering: iChlor is in communication with an IntelliFlo pump, and it is monitoring
the pump status. This short flickering will be present as long as there is communication with the pump,
either with no flow (RED FLOW LED) or with good flow (GREEN FLOW LED).
Here is what the Salt Level LED Light indicates.
Green LED: Good salt level. The pool water salt level is between 3000 ppm and 4500.
Green LED (Flashing): Salt level is above 4500 ppm. The salt level is too high
Red LED: Low salt. The salt level is between 2600 ppm and 3000 ppm. Ithe iChlor will stillproduce chlorine but at a reduced level.
Red LED (Flashing) Very low salt. The salt level is between 2000 ppm and 2600 ppm. The iChlor
will produce chlorine at a very reduced rate.
Red LED (Flashing): Not enough salt. The salt level has fallen below 2000 ppm. The iChlor will not produce chlorine.
Digital Display Overview:
The iChlor Display shows the “output %” and cell polarity, while it is operating.
To adjust output percentage simply press either LESS or MORE button. If your iChlor is connected and controlled by a Pentair Automated system you will not be able to adjust the output from the cell, only from the automated system settings or the app.
Once the output begins to flash on the digital display, this indicates that the iChlor is ready to change output levels. While output is flashing, press LESS or MORE button, to change output in 1% increments.
Note: Press and hold LESS or MORE button to change output in larger increments (5% jumps).
Once the desired setting is programmed and you stop changing the setting, the digital display will stop flashing after a few seconds.
The last setting after the digital display stops flashing will be the new set output level.
Cell polarity indicator:
Cell polarity is displayed as a small rotating character on the left side of the output % display. Clockwise rotation indicates Forward polarity on the blades. Counterclockwise rotation indicates Reverse polarity on the blades. The rotating feature also indicates chlorine production. If the cell is OFF, the character will not be displayed.
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Hello. Thank you for the video. What is a blinking GREEN in salt frame?
So what if all lights are solid green, but the cell display reads CELL?
What means salt light blinking in green ?
What is the red light stays on the whole time under the salt function where it says good, add, low? Was not covered
My issue too
Any answer on this?
Would you want your cell light to always be on? Thank you And if it's set at 20 is that okay or what is the optimal that it should be set at?
Cell light is only always on at 100% output. So you may want it on only 50% of the time 30 minutes making chlorine and 30 minutes off. Depending on pool size and how much chlorine you need.
Thank you so much for posting this video, im a nurse busy bee trying to manage my own pool! Your video have saved me so much headache, please keep uploading more
How do you flip the control panel?
Hi can you do at video explaining why my ichlor said CELL and is not producing chlorine
I've done some podcasts on the subject. Many factors are invloved. Maybe pull it up and listen to it.
Great video and spent my weekend watching many of your channel. Replaced my IC20 for iChlor today. Bought it from local pool supply store. Due to COVID, they could not install it, but as another video you posted, an 11-year old can install this. My IC20 died prematurely. I think it's the flow switch and may try to replace it to keep unit as spare. Regarding the iChlor, any idea if if the 2020 models have any flow switch issues? How reliable have the units been for you in the field? Thanks again Dave.
Glad you got it installed. I hear the 2020 models so far seem to not have the flow switch issue.
Good to hear and fingers crossed. Thank you for the response and all the helpful videos.
What does it mean if the cell light is green with a slow flash to red?
What does it mean when my SALT LIGHT blinks on & off with the GREEN COLORED LIGHT?
Dirty salt cell
What if the cell light is blinking red?
Great info thanks i
does anyone know what a AC on my Pentair salt cell mean and the cell is flashing red?
Thank you for your video. My salt button flashes red. I have salt level at 3900 checked with test and salt generator says the same. Any idea what it could be?
Maybe clean the cell and then see how it is the next day.
thank you
Hello, add salt level is flashing green so that means I have to much salt in my pool. My output level is at 50, should I lower the output level to 30? Or less?
Maybe drain 2-4 inches of water and refill to lower the salt level.
Dave way my ichor30 is blinking green On the tio light
First light links green
Low salt maybe
Una pregunta tengo dos sistema que pone la palabra cell en la pantalla
What if the cell light is blinking red
Not enough salt indicator.
Low salt
@@SPL I confused I that the salt light tells you when to add salt...and the cell light tells you when it's on standby or water is too cold.
Mine is CELL light is flashing red and green . Please help.
Question: My iChlor is showing CELL and flashing Green for cell. I just cleaned it with muranic acid to get all of the calcium build up off. What does it mean when it says CELL and green light is flashing on cell?
It might be that after the cleaning the sensor read the salt as high. It should be fine in a few hours.
Any idea what would cause my output screen on my pentair ichlor 30 to not work or light up?
Possibly the power unit not receiving power.
Why does my iChlor say "AC" on the output screen? It also has all 3 flashing red lights. Any insight on this?
Give Pentair a call - it sounds like a voltage issue.
Is it ok that the iChlor 30 stays on when the pump is turned off (like during the night)? Or should I turn off the power to the iChlor 30 as well? Thanks.
You might need a seperate timer to turn it off if you are using a VS pump as your primary pool pump.
For all wondering… here are all the LEDs…
Solid Green LED : Good Salt
Green LED Flashing : Salt > 4500 PPM
Solid Red LED : Low Salt (between 2600 PPM - 3000 PPM)
Flashing Red LED : Very low salt or not enough salt
This is directly from the owners manual.
Thank you!! Solid red salt light
How about if show CELL on the display screen
What about a blank salt light?
Is it ok if the flow light is slowly flashing green?
It might be defective. Pentair had a run of bad sensors. It clips on totthe front of the cell so maybe replace it.
New subscriber here I have a question I go to a pool shop and get my water tested but recently my chlorine has been high all other levels are good I do my shock weekly I adjusted the chlorinate down still chlorine is high days after doing that, what’s the fix at keeping the chlorine down or is it the shock causing it to rise?
Yes, with a salt water system you don't need to shock it. Would stop adding chlorine manually each week.
My iChlor 30 has flashing red light on Cell indicating low salt. My test strips show salt at 3800 ppm. I even bought new test strips. Any help appreciated.
Maybe cell needs to be cleaned.
The solid red salt light indicator was not covered in this specific video, was pleased with the overall video but mine is solid red and was not discussed...
Hmm. Thought I got all of them 😁👍
@@SPL So what is the answer if the red salt light indicator is solid red? I did not see it either in the video, only the blinking red. Thanks!
LOL he still didn't cover solid red light my issue too..
Nope. Any answer?
The OUTPUT display is blank on our iChlor 30 unit and will not display any number when pushing the UP and DOWN buttons. The SALT and STATUS lights are working. The unit is not producing any chlorine. The pool tech says I need to replace the cell for a cost of $1030! Any ideas of what the problem might be?
How old is the unit? I wonder if it could be a warranty call?
I have same problem… pentagram has been terrible providing an answer regarding warranty. Blames everything but the product itself
Pentair **
Dave good video I wonder if it's cost effective to switch over to salt? Thanks for the video.👍👍👍👍
No its not. Salt always breaks down. Stay chlorine, unless money is no object
Salt is more for convenience Lou. It won't save you money but you won't have to add chlorine to your pool either during the season. It's more of a luxury item really.
@@ElPajaroMosca Thank you.
@@SPL Thanks Dave
I switched my home pool to salt last year. Warning... this comes with a whole new set of issue you will need to be aware of. Pool chemistry is a must or the system will not generate chlorine properly. Maintaining the system within this small window is almost impossible so you will need to clean your salt cell about every 2-3 months to ensure proper operation. I’ve seen a reduction in cost for Chlorine since I use very little over the last year. The system generates enough and salt is $7 a bag and you will use a bag about every few months to maintain 3500 ppm. On the plus side, it’s a different swim. Not overly salty like I originally thought. Very mild saltiness but kind of silky feel to the water. So my family likes it. Overall, my system cost about $1000 all included and I installed it. I’m on the fence on whether to recommend this expense or not. I decided not to switch my rental to salt since the maintenance is a little more involved. I guess I would suggest to Stick with Chlorine if you don’t have that time to dedicate.
Hello I just had my ichlor 15 installed this weekend. But all the lights stay on all night even though the pumps is off. Is that how it Hass to be?
That could be a number or reasons. I would have the installer check the wiring and if it is on a stand alone VS the salt system will need it's own timer.
Thank you , I will check that out. Yes 👍
my salt light keeps flashing green but the pool store says my salt level is correct. I've tried draining some water and adding fresh water but no difference. any ideas?
What does the iChlor say the salt level is at?
@@SPL my model does not have the display. I have model kr 30.
I have a red light on my salt indicator but it never flashes, its just solid red.
That would be the flow I believe they had a bunch of defective flow sensors.
I just noticed the Cell light on mine is on solid green and will go off from time to time and then come back on. What exactly does it mean? I hadn’t noticed it being on before. The pool was installed about 3 months ago.
That is normal is the output is not set at 100% . It will turn off when it is not producing chlorine.
My ICHLOR 30 cell light is always off when pump runs. Display shows "0". I then set level to say 20%, and cell starts producing chlorine - cell light goes green, the little spinner light goes around. So all good. Next time the pump turns on, cell light stays off again and I have to manually jack up the chlorine to get the cell to start producing chlorine. When testing water, chlorine is consistently 4-5ppm.
Does the cell turn itself off if chorine level is >5ppm???
mine is flashing CELL pool went green??
Take it off and clean the cell.
Is there a "shock" mode?
Not really. All the boost mode does with salt systems is run them at 100% output if they were set for a lower % output.
Mine is set to output 100 and I would like to drop it to 50 percent but the output will not go down? All other functions are working. Any advise?
Is it connected to an automated system?
@@SPL No unfortunately.
@@SPL I have an automated system but the salt cell in not tied into the automated system
Only seventy-four thousand subscribers? Pick it up ,buddy
Yeah, I know. People just find me on Google. When their problem is solved they are done with me. I don't sing or play the Cello. 😜👍
I subscribed
What does it mean when the salt light blinks red & green alternately?
Usually happens when the system is starting up. Until there is enough flow to get it working.
@@SPL thank you Dave. I checked it later today and it had stopped blinking and was solid green without me doing anything.
My cell light flashes red and green ,what does that mean?
No flow. No water flowing in the pipes. It should turn solid green after a few minutes.
@haumea6166- did you ever figure out what the issue was? Mine is doing the same thing but all my valves are opened. 😖
I have the Pentair Ichlor 30
I check the diagnostics and my pool (24' above ground) salt reading is around 3200 however, all lights are green except for the Cell light which is off. Does the cell turn on and off as needed or is it supposed to remain on constantly (cell light always green)?
Thx for any help you can offer!
If the output is not set at 100% the light will turn off when the cell is not producing chlorine.
@@SPL thanks for the prompt response.
Should the cell always be producing chlorine? I have the output set to 40. Should I set it to 100% and leave it there? Or leave it at 40 and allow the cell to turn on and off as needed?
Thx
@@nardz1645 Set it to the level where it is maintaining a good chlorine level. Typically 3 ppm to 5 ppm on your tester. If you need to you can raise it up to 50% or 100% but only if you need to.
In my icell chloronitor display shows CELL. what this mind?
All light green but in the out put display shows CELL. ???
Means low salt - but it could also be reading lower salt because water is colder.
@@SPL I don't think is because low salt or cold water because this started in summer time I thinking may be the cells life time is over, do you how long or how many hrs or years this ichlor last?
@@alejandropalazuelosleis6553 If I remember it is 10,000 hours.
@@SPL and there's any way to know how many hours have a cell chloronitor?
I saw another video that mentioned that the cell would clean itself when rotating green circle next to output number is moving counter clockwise..... I'm not sure what they meant, have you heard about this ..???
Would say maybe referring to reverse polarity which in my opinion doesn't clean much of the calcium off of a cell.
Do you know anything about “The Simple Blue Simple Salt Water System” with Copper ionizer. I just bought an Above Ground Pool and was sold this system. I should have done more research but I cannot a lot about it on the internet. I think I will have to replace it soon because I don’t understand it. It’s not a Salt System but I put 40lbs if Salt in it. I am confused.
Never heard of it. Do you have a website link?
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL
www.simplecleansystem.com/index.php/simple-salt-system-main-menu
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL Were you ever able to look at the link I sent you? I was not looking to have a salt water system and they said it isn’t but i had to put in 40lbs of Salt. Should I abandon the ionizer and just do your BBB System?
It is an odd product. I will have to contact the manufacturer and look into it. Seems to mix borates with copper and salt.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL Any help would be great. If I have to scrap it that is what I will do but it sucks since I have only had it a week. But it does me no good if I or anyone else doesn’t understand it. Leslie pools doesn’t under stand it either. But it is all my fault for not researching and just trusting sales guy and pool company(not Leslie) which are pretty reputable.
I have been toying around with the idea of converting my pool to salt. But in your working and installing the product have you found issues with this salt generator? I always seem to find less then stellar reviews on it's longevity
figure 3-5 years with any salt cell.
@@SPL thank you sir. Last question would there be an issue with plumbing the chlorinator on 1.5" piping? It looks like the unions are for 2" and my return line on my equipment pad is 1.5" if need be I'll change the outlet from the filter to 2" into the ichlor and then maybe a few inches after then reduce to 1.5"
What does a solid red light mean salt column?
What output level (number)do you suggest setting the salt output to?
40-50% is usually ideal
I have a ichlor 30 flashing AC in the output screen. The other side just scrolls through each one with a red light. Can u please help?
Did you found what it was? I have the same problem
@@cuellorojo7117 I reached out to the company and they said it was defective. They sent me another unit
My generator keeps having flow issues and flow is in the red alot. It's everything seems to be working and have good flow except generator not reading good flow. The inside is clean like new. Any ideas?
Where is the damn salt cell that can actually monitor the chlorine level and just adjust the effing output based upon the chlorine reading??? It’s 2023… let’s gooooo😂😂😂 you shouldn’t have to buy anything extra to make it happen either it should just be built right in. WTF!!!!
Makes sense to me as well. All you need is a chlorine sensor. Easy enough as they are available.
@@SPL you’re talking about having to buy a full on ORP set up though aren’t you? Or the water guru? What is the least expensive and quickest solution?
Anyone know what it could mean when the Cell and Flow lights are green, but the Salt light is totally off? Diagnostic numbers seem fine, just no light.
Hi my reader just went blank
How do I get it to come back on todays is 7-10-24 it’s 12:28 pm please let me know what to do is it the breaker switch do I have to go and turn that on and off
Could be a fuse in the power unit.
Can you be more in detail about determining how much salt your pool needs. I’m still confuse about how much bags of salt to pour into my pool.
3000-4000 ppm depending on the system. The back of the bag has a guide. Then you would just retest the next week with a digital tester
What if salt reads 4140 but my status lights are all green on my ichlor30. However my pool does not have any chlorine? Salt sell was cleaned a few months back?
Run your pool for 24 hours and salt output at 100%. See if you get a reading the next day. Also make sure your CYA level is at 50 ppm or higher.
@@SPL So I just checked the salt reading on the cell and now it reads 4500 and the light is blinking green. What's wierd is after I drained about 8 inches of water it went to solid green and now a week later it's blinking again.
What does it mean if the cell light is flashing red?
Slow it down brother...
My display says cell after I cleaned it today any ideas what that means ??
If everything is green you should be fine.
I had an IChlor15 installed by my pool/pump guy about 4 years ago. I run it 10 hours/day at 100% to achieve anything close to an acceptable chlorine level. I believe the unit is undersized for my 20,000+ gallon pool. Question: can I simply switch it out with an iChlor30 and use the same electrical box?
Gotta say the iChlor15 has been more reliable than the three Aqua Rite Turbo Cells it replaced although I do get the nonsensical high temperature reading.
Yes, the power unit works with all the iChlor as well as the Intellichlor cells. You can upgrade safely to the larger cell.
@@SPL Thanks a bunch!
Hello Dave! My IC30 is less than 1 year old and started indicating a absurd high temperature (120+) and now just dashes for the indication. The cell indicator flashes red (not a steady blink) as though it knows the temperature sensor is messed up. Have you seen this before? Any ideas how to fix? Salt has gone from 3500 to 5400 now but thinking its reading incorrect because no temperature factor. TIA!
That should be a warranty issue. Give Pentair a call right away and they will swap out that cell.
What does the salt light indicate if it’s blinking green?
High salt
i had one of these cells installed and im not getting any chlorine reading even after turning it up to 80 altho my cell i have to use the less button to raise the numbers ive called the company that installed the cell and they came out and told me it was working just fine i never had this problem with my old ic 40 i had before it failed on me any advice would be great
Turn it up to 100% and run your pool for 18-24 hours at 3450 RPM - if you have a VS pump. It should make 1 lbs. of chlorine in that time. See if that works.
Your pool might need some conditioner so the sun does not burn off the chlorine.
What if the cell light is blinking red?
If I remember that is a bad temp sensor warning. Should be under Pentair Warranty.
What if the cell light is flashing red does that also mean it needs to be cleaned?
Yes. That indicates a dirty cell.
@@SPL so what if I clean the salt cell and both the cell light and the good light are both still flashing green?
Salt flashing green wahts that mean
high salt
Thnks
Thanks for all your videos! If I want to increase the free chlorine in the pool because my salt light blink red do I need to increase or decrease the the output?
Increase the output.
Thank you for your response.🙏
Just add liquid chlorine and stabilizer every 2 weeks. And disconnect your salt system