For small to medium sized jobs use an angle grinder and a mortar raking bit like the one in the vid which I bought from Screwfix (widely available elsewhere). For much larger jobs use a mortar raking disc/blade instead.
my day was a builder till he was 72 and he use to put 2 angle grinder (thick) disks back to back, and it made it like a hot knife through butter could do a gable in a day
Should look at the Morta Sorta kit, which includes a guiding plate attached to a dust extractor collar, which would all but eliminate the dust and make the guiding of the rake much easier
Great video.Thanks very much for this. I was previously using a masonry bit in my drill as the mortar was very sandy and didn't want to use a disc in my grinder due to the mess. I will get one of these tomorrow 👍
The raking tool is an absolute game changer, so thanks for making the video as the job was so much easier than I thought it would be. I’m currently working on the gable end of the house and wasn’t sure if it’s safe to rake out all the joints in one go or do a row at a time and point it. What do you usually do? I noticed on the closeup you were only using the tip of the mortar raker and not using the full depth. Compared to my original pointing which is extremely crumbly yours look very solid.
Hi there and thanks for watching my friend. You do NOT need to use the full depth of the raking bit. Rake out a depth of 15 - 20mm or thereabouts but no more - that'll do fine. Rake out a good few rows at a time if this is new to you rather than doing the whole lot. Realistically though it shouldn't really matter unless there will be significant delays in repointing a big area or the brickwork is very unstable. The thing is, you don't want to rake out a huge area and leave it exposed and vulnerable to the elements if adverse weather is a possibility. Equally, you don't want to repoint with new mortar and then contaminate it by raking out old mortar which is a messy procedure and may affect the finish of the new mortar (if that makes sense). You'll work it out after a short while and will be able to decide how much you can rake out and repoint in a given time period. It's not rocket science. Important: don't repoint lower brickwork and then start raking out rows above this as it will obviously contaminate the work you've just completed. Hope this helps, Des
Thanks Des. Something which you maybe interested in if your ever planning on doing a project with type 1 mot is to use a technique called ‘soil stabilisation’. It will save you so much money. Here’s a video I found ruclips.net/video/tNoWVPVb6Mo/видео.htmlsi=48kJX4_NK1dwACLw. I know totally unrelated to this video topic.
Good to see you have tried one of these bits. The close up footage was really good to see it in action, it certainly made light work of the mortar. Would be curious to hear what you think about it's longevity? Is it quieter than the discs? You didn't seem to have hearing protection on. Think I would still wear ear defenders personally with my Makita angle grinder as it is damn noisy as a tool. 👍
Hi buddy. I don't think longevity will be as great as the disc and it's probably more suitable for small to medium sized jobs? The disc is going to be better for much bigger jobs and will be far quicker. Not sure about the noise comparison. I agree that ear defenders are always preferable. However, I was balancing on a ladder, wearing gloves and eye protection and a brimmed hat. I think there comes a point where too much PPE can be counter productive and may actually pose more risks that not wearing due to discomfort and restricted vision and hearing? Ultimately, everyone has to do their own personal risk assessment and work out their own priorities given the circumstances. I agree that your Makita angle grinder is damn noisy and I'm patiently awaiting a more modern replacement? Hope Derby is treating you well mate. Best wishes.
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for the info about the bit. On the job I have upcoming I think I will stick to a disc for the horizontal runs and then use a bit afterwards for the verticals where it will be harder to avoid catching the brick with a disc. Agree that PPE can go over the top, though I do try to always wear some form of ear protection as I know someone with tinnitus and it appears to be pretty horrible to have. I am tempted to upgrade and buy a bare Makita battery powered grinder as the times I do use it I find the lead can get in the way and hopefully these newer ones will be quieter than my older model and I think an electric break is more common now. Mine can keep turning for a good while after turning it off. Thankfully I am not from Derby, couldn't think of anything worse 🤣 More a Forest/County man.
If you're doing quite a bit of repointing then I would agree that it's normally better to spend more to get a better quality product. However, for smaller to medium jobs these are perfect. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 maybe more expensive but I've used both and imo the irwin mortar rake is cheaper and better quality. Get the kit that connects to the vacuum and it turns your grinder into a router for joints. Anyway thank you for your content and good luck on your journey 👍💩
Do not use that mortar raker like this man, just waiting for a accident to happen, these are supposed to be used with a guide that fits on the grinder, them bits are crap they wear out quickly or snap, the Irwin ones are best.
For small to medium sized jobs use an angle grinder and a mortar raking bit like the one in the vid which I bought from Screwfix (widely available elsewhere). For much larger jobs use a mortar raking disc/blade instead.
my day was a builder till he was 72 and he use to put 2 angle grinder (thick) disks back to back, and it made it like a hot knife through butter could do a gable in a day
If the mortar is hard, you'll need a disc.
Should look at the Morta Sorta kit, which includes a guiding plate attached to a dust extractor collar, which would all but eliminate the dust and make the guiding of the rake much easier
I bought a similar set up
And it virtually no dust
Great video.Thanks very much for this. I was previously using a masonry bit in my drill as the mortar was very sandy and didn't want to use a disc in my grinder due to the mess. I will get one of these tomorrow 👍
Hi there. Can understand the masonry drill bit - particularly for smaller areas. However, it'll be a dream using one of these mate. Enjoy. ATB, Des
Loving the cable tie cufflinks. 😎 Thanks for the helpful video. 👍🏻
My pleasure. ATB, Des
Great Vid! Have been looking for this kind of tool! Where can we find and buy?! Thank you!
The raking tool is an absolute game changer, so thanks for making the video as the job was so much easier than I thought it would be. I’m currently working on the gable end of the house and wasn’t sure if it’s safe to rake out all the joints in one go or do a row at a time and point it. What do you usually do? I noticed on the closeup you were only using the tip of the mortar raker and not using the full depth. Compared to my original pointing which is extremely crumbly yours look very solid.
Hi there and thanks for watching my friend. You do NOT need to use the full depth of the raking bit. Rake out a depth of 15 - 20mm or thereabouts but no more - that'll do fine. Rake out a good few rows at a time if this is new to you rather than doing the whole lot. Realistically though it shouldn't really matter unless there will be significant delays in repointing a big area or the brickwork is very unstable. The thing is, you don't want to rake out a huge area and leave it exposed and vulnerable to the elements if adverse weather is a possibility. Equally, you don't want to repoint with new mortar and then contaminate it by raking out old mortar which is a messy procedure and may affect the finish of the new mortar (if that makes sense). You'll work it out after a short while and will be able to decide how much you can rake out and repoint in a given time period. It's not rocket science. Important: don't repoint lower brickwork and then start raking out rows above this as it will obviously contaminate the work you've just completed. Hope this helps, Des
Thanks Des. Something which you maybe interested in if your ever planning on doing a project with type 1 mot is to use a technique called ‘soil stabilisation’. It will save you so much money. Here’s a video I found ruclips.net/video/tNoWVPVb6Mo/видео.htmlsi=48kJX4_NK1dwACLw. I know totally unrelated to this video topic.
Hey Chris, will check it out mate. Always willing to learn. Appreciate the link my friend. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 your welcome mate, hope you find it useful
Are you using a standard sanding disc
there. No, it's one specifically for mortar. ATB, Des
Nice, thanks!
My pleasure. Des
witch bit you used for removing a old motor.
watch bit fused in old rotor
Good to see you have tried one of these bits. The close up footage was really good to see it in action, it certainly made light work of the mortar. Would be curious to hear what you think about it's longevity? Is it quieter than the discs? You didn't seem to have hearing protection on. Think I would still wear ear defenders personally with my Makita angle grinder as it is damn noisy as a tool. 👍
Hi buddy. I don't think longevity will be as great as the disc and it's probably more suitable for small to medium sized jobs? The disc is going to be better for much bigger jobs and will be far quicker. Not sure about the noise comparison. I agree that ear defenders are always preferable. However, I was balancing on a ladder, wearing gloves and eye protection and a brimmed hat. I think there comes a point where too much PPE can be counter productive and may actually pose more risks that not wearing due to discomfort and restricted vision and hearing? Ultimately, everyone has to do their own personal risk assessment and work out their own priorities given the circumstances. I agree that your Makita angle grinder is damn noisy and I'm patiently awaiting a more modern replacement? Hope Derby is treating you well mate. Best wishes.
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for the info about the bit. On the job I have upcoming I think I will stick to a disc for the horizontal runs and then use a bit afterwards for the verticals where it will be harder to avoid catching the brick with a disc.
Agree that PPE can go over the top, though I do try to always wear some form of ear protection as I know someone with tinnitus and it appears to be pretty horrible to have.
I am tempted to upgrade and buy a bare Makita battery powered grinder as the times I do use it I find the lead can get in the way and hopefully these newer ones will be quieter than my older model and I think an electric break is more common now. Mine can keep turning for a good while after turning it off.
Thankfully I am not from Derby, couldn't think of anything worse 🤣 More a Forest/County man.
Great video.......thanks !!!!
My pleasure. ATB, Des
Needs a diamond bit and a shop,vac attachment!
Irwin mortar rake is what you need
If you're doing quite a bit of repointing then I would agree that it's normally better to spend more to get a better quality product. However, for smaller to medium jobs these are perfect. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 maybe more expensive but I've used both and imo the irwin mortar rake is cheaper and better quality. Get the kit that connects to the vacuum and it turns your grinder into a router for joints. Anyway thank you for your content and good luck on your journey 👍💩
Very hard on the hands
Yes, it can be for sure. Best thing is to do bits at a time to give your hands a break if it causes issues. ATB, Des
The wheel is much faster
Yes it is for sure. But, it is also much messier and creates heaps of mortar dust. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 that’s for sure!
Bet your shoes where full when you finished. 🙂
Do not use that mortar raker like this man, just waiting for a accident to happen, these are supposed to be used with a guide that fits on the grinder, them bits are crap they wear out quickly or snap, the Irwin ones are best.
I wouldn't grind out for a gold pig or even a gold elephant! Never Again.
Done wrong
Hi there. How's that? Please explain. Thanks, Des