@@tipr8739 I don't have any us links I'm afraid, but thank you for the thought. It depends on what you are pointing around and the age of the building as to what mortar you would use, here is a link to a us. site that you may find helpful www.thespruce.com/recommended-guide-for-selection-of-mortar-mix-type-844821
This was a very informative lesson. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this job the right way! You make it look easy. That’s always the sign of a pro.
This is the proper way a professional repoints brickwork. Using a hawk and pointer is superior to a grout bag and the powered pointers because it insures no voids in the joint. I have 30 years experience in masonry in the U.S. and the last several years have been masonry restoration.
I disagree, I have almost no experience, but I have done my own home and the previous "professional" who did the repointing on my home did not push in the mortar fully in many places, and the mortar dried to quickly making it almost like sand. He did the home the traditional way. I tried both techniques, using a mortar gun and doing it traditionally. With both it's very easy to see when the joints are filled enough, because you always should finish by pushing them in and removing the excess material. Also, the mortar in the gun needs to be more "runny" making it so that you need to water it down less often afterwards.
You do really good job 👍 old school used to do loads of pointing 40 years experienced stone work and old church ragstone . weather struck on old red rubbers brick my mix use to gauge it 4 soft sand/ half cement /half lime and little nib of ronfix in mix or went spr came out it gives it better stability 👍 I've watched a few your videos on RUclips and I am pressure with your work 👍 who taught you 👍
Twenty years ago we moved into a house badly in need of some repointing low down where plants had been, so I read up on everything and practiced on an old brick toilet in the back yard. Managed quite well - bit messy, but OK. Now some other bricks need a bit of work. You've shown me how I can use different tools for an easier and better job. Thanks so much.
Thanks Chris, yeah I’ve done it for so long now, could probably do it with my eyes closed 🤣 anything you found difficult that maybe I missed out explaining?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think you covered everything, the little dryer tip was really good for me as a novice. I suppose PPE is important for a someone without experience, I did use gloves because I lacked skill 👍I also used knee pads. Great instructional video delivered in a nice way.
Thank you, it was one of the first videos I had done, I have got a better mic now and will bring out some new videos once the weather warms up. Thanks for watching 👍
Been pointing for more years than I care to remember. Pointing with a hawk and trowel very out dated. I use a pointing gun and king fisher pointing. Excellent product. Quick and easy to use.
Good day, and just remember all the best spots and trades people are cack handed as an X Brighton boy, just like to say pointing and joining 1. made up my own hawk from offcut 10mil ply 35cm X 150mm ... basic tools 10mm tuck pointer and dotting pointer trowel for pirps...the wider hawk just gives a better spread for bed joining and dotter just more comfortable and speedy however why oh why don't you use a hose as mostly face brickwork is Bone-dry... working from top down for cutting out is less dust for 1. and when pointing then onto damp bricks gives so much better for larger areas pointing and lass striking joints with bucket handle finish ... the general job will also be sound and your lungs will also thank you into your happy pointing future 😊 Malcs in Perth WA ♥️
Never seen repointing carries out so efficiently as demonstrated here and this is a useful practical demonstration of repointing a modern brick wall. If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authourative further information, including recommended mortar mixes, when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
A good deal of scruffy and untidy work and in particular the incorrect use of modern cement rich mortar use on old walls that should have been pointed with lime based materials. Many modern bricklayers do not learn about lime but thankfully some are now realizing the benefits of this tried and tested material. This is all explained in BRE Good Repair Guide No 24.
Again thanks, yours I found the most yours the most useful tips. Cement arrived today so I made a start. 'Extras' I would have liked to see: 1. Uneven brickwork - e.g. new apprentice work, poor string work, perps varying 6-15mm, hawk kept slipping! 2. Working in warm sunshine? How often do you 'wet it'? 3. With such uneven beds, do you go for the narrowest tuck trowel or keep two handy? 4. You show working to an external corner, what about an internal corner? 5. (note I'm a newbie) - working top to bottom, how 'wide' a strip would you suggest please? As with many manual skills, the pro's make it look easy... until you try to emulate them 🙂
Nice job. I’ve done a lot of repointing and never used my hawk. I use my hawk for plastering or compound or stucco. I will be trying it. I’m ambidextrous so if one side gets tired I switch. Keep up the good work.
Great video mate I'm just about to do front of my house I'm a painter to trade pointed a bit years ago but watching this has been very beneficial thank you
Glad you have found it useful 👍 that’s what it’s all about. Good luck with the pointing. If there is anything you would like me to explain better, just let me know.
Normally on a fairly modern property like this it’s a 4 sand : 1 cement mix. Mix them together dry until it’s a uniform colour and fine powder with no lumps. Add some plasticiser or integral waterproofer if pointing below the damp proof course, I like to use Sika products. Just don’t add loads of water, you will get a better consistency if you add little bits and keep mixing.
? Your link is to the 8mm tuckpointing trowel, you name it as 10mm? Which do you use please (or is it brickwork dependent?). Please turn up the mic - you're very soft spoken. Informative, thanks.
Thanks for letting me know. I generally have a selection of sizes for different sized joints. It’s always best to ensure the trowel fits into the joint, so you can push that mortar right to the back of the joint.
Great vid....im doing the front of my house in a couple of weeks ( just pricing the scaffold up now......wow) i did a bit of pointing many moons ago when i was a young lad so you vid has come in very handy ...keep up the good work and ive subbed
Thanks for the comment 👍 has it solved your damp problem? Normally pointing isn’t really the cure and there is another underlying issue like a bridged cavity, condensation, window placement etc if you need further help send me an email with a picture and I can try and advise further.
Wet the wall first to see roughly the colour of the mortar when wet, then go to your local builders merchants and view the building sand available ( take a couple of samples if you can). Colour of mortars depend on the aggregate used and the binder I.e cement, lime and the ratio. If in doubt email me a picture.
Get a margin trowel that’s around 1” or so, flatten the mortar on the hawk to just less than the joint size, pick up the mortar on the top of the margin trowel and apply to the joint with a slight sideways motion to enable the mortar to adhere. Make sure you clean the trowel after each stroke to avoid smudging.
I need to repoint the front of my house, it gets a lot of weather. I googled mortar mixes for repointing and got a lot of different answers, what would you suggest i use and what additives ? Thanks in advance.
What’s the age of the property? If you send an email to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.uk with a picture of your property, a close up of the mortar and address, I can give you a good idea on what mix to use along with any additives you may require.
Using red building sand (as opposed to yellow building sand) will give a more sandy coloured final mortar finish which is preferable in my opinion. Would you recommend spraying with a brickwork waterproofing product when the mortar is fully dry. Great video and very useful thanks
Depends how exposed the wall is and how wet the bricks are etc. If wet weather is forecast, I find it handy to add a touch of waterproofer in the mix instead of plasticiser
What if the existing wall is already painted? I want to flash point my fireplace but it's already painted. So I am trying to find out whether and how to remove the existing paint to flash repoint it.
Just about to start, daunting task. I appreciate all the tips. I have picked out a lots of old mortar, some of it wet. Should I leave and just take out enough to repoint? Very old home.
Sieve the sand before adding cement or just make sure that when combined that no lumps exist, and the mix is a uniform colour, add a splash of plasticiser to the water and gradually add the water, too much water and you’ve made soup.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I live in a 100 year old house which needs a lots of repointing work. I'd just like to try get close to the original lime mortar so the new pointing doesn't stand out against the old. I did a small area recently using 3 plastering sand, 1 sharp sand and 1 and a half lime and it was a lot lighter. I wonder if I should have used less lime or more sand etc
My suggestion would be to have a look at Cornish limes website or Mike wye associates they have biscuits of coloured mortar samples that may match your desired colour if not then it would be a case of buying some natural pigments and testing or get the mortar analysed to achieve a perfect result.
Great video!One of the most informative I've seen. That's one job I'm not looking forward to!I imagine the racking out before hand to be the worst part.I thought I would use a 4 and a half inch angle grinder rigged up to a vacuum cleaner,any thoughts would be welcome from a pro!🙂👍
Thank you, don’t dread it, enjoy the learning curve. You can use a 4 1/2” angle grinder just go deep with the blade as best as you can. If your talking about using a normal vacuum cleaner then you may as well not use one, once the dust gets sucked in it will clog the filter in a matter of minutes. Hire one from a tool hire place and it will do the job. 👍 good luck!
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your advice, I'm thinking about buying an industrial wet and dry vacuum cleaner, as I will have other uses for it aswell. 😀👍
I’m coming up to 40 years old and really want to get off site work. I’ve only ever repointed one bungalow but I really fancy giving it a go full time. Have you ever found it hard to keep the work coming in ? Great video 👍
Go for it, never been a day out of work. I would recommend doing all the back work first I.e website etc then book work a month in advance as quotes start to come in, before quitting your day job.
👍 take your time and check the drying speed as you go, you don’t want it to dry to quick. Good luck! Send me a pic of you can to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.Uk would be good to see.
After watching your video I have begun to point garage and also bottom 2 horizontals on house upto damp course membrane. It doesn't look half bad for a complete novice. Let's see how long it stays in for 😆
Hi Jody, did you brush off your work with a soft brush? If the mortar has cured then a light acid wash should remove the mortar on the face of the brick. It’s best to dilute the brick acid with water, apply to the area, brush area and then rinse off straight after.
I did brush it off but in turn I've smudged onto brick faces too when it was still wet. I've managed to get most of it off with a wire brush. Acid washing is another option 👍. Thanks
We use a much dryer mixture here. First we moisturize the wall. Then the mortar is applied and finished in the specific joint shape. For example brushed, recessed, cut, etc. The mortar is only moistened up to the point that you can form a ball with it in your hand and it stays together, but cannot press out any water at all. You can work very fast that way. The mortar hardens perfectly and you will have no problems with smudging. Only never do this while it's freezing, raining or when you have full sunshine on the wall. On a cloudy and cool day it's perfect to do this kind of work. But that is probably the way you work as well. We use a fine kind of sand, called silver sand, for jointing here. It's much finer than the sand used for masonry. I have put down some links below: ruclips.net/video/v2Ig7C2XhAc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/UwegIy6xfJA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/PkMb3MvOQ0A/видео.html
Thanks for the comment it was good to watch how others point in another country, we use silver sand also depending on the mortar needed on each property, it’s great to work with and leaves a great smooth finish but like you say the weather conditions have to be just right.
Great video! Just one question, apologies if you have mentioned this in the video, but what size finger trowel do I use? Does it have to be small enough to actually fit inside the joint (Gap)?
Thank you, I have put a link in the description for the finger trowel it’s a 10mm, always better to use a smaller finger trowel to be able to push the mortar into the joint. 👍
I point with lots of different mixes, the most common is a 4 sand 1 cement ratio but it depends on the property and what mix was used when it was built. Another common mix was 6 sand 1 hydrated lime and 1 cement. The sand and cement you use has a great impact on the overall colour of the pointing. Thanks for watching.
Hi mate great videos. Really informative and to the point. I've just bought a house and building reports suggest the whole thing needs re pointing. Would you rake out a whole wall then go back and point or do bottom half then top half? Got a hell of a job on my hands. I'm also in sussex so may give you a shout 😁🤟
Hi, great video, but the mortar gaps on my house are 5mm and less. When I am grinding out I am cutting into the bricks and something is telling me this is not good. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers. 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your swift reply, I am doing the pointing now but it makes it difficult when the gaps between the bricks is narrower than my 6mm striker, you make it look so easy 😬
Get the striker going in almost flat to avoid mortar going over the top brick, it may pay to have a stiffer mix to prevent mortar stains too. If you go with a stiffer mix make sure that you mist spray not long after putting it in.
Not quite pointing. What would you use if you had to bag rub Engineering brick.(Red Mortar or red sand with a red dye) Or something else. was thinking of oiling the brickwork after. Thanks..
I’ll be honest I’ve never had the opportunity to use the bag rub method, but I would say that if you were to have to use this method you would use a lime mortar with red oxide and lime wash after. Is this a job you have to carry out using this method?
Great tutorial thanks, I'm considering repointing my small kitchen extension but after seeing videos about different types of cement to use ( general purpose, lime mortar, etc, ) I'm not entirely sure which mortar to use , my house is a terraced house built in the early 1900s ,but the extension is a lot newer but built before I moved in , is there a way of telling which mortar they used by looking at it , I know it's not a good idea to use cement mortar onto existing lime mortar so not sure which to buy , and also would you use normal building sand or sharp sand?? Thanks..
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thankyou , could you tell me what mix I would need exactly (sorry complete novice at pointing) how many parts sand , how many lime etc which sand, lime to buy, also when will I know when it's about time to rub up the joints etc , sorry for all these questions but after watching your tutorials you've given me the confidence to try it myself .thanks .
It’s hard to say without seeing it in person. But you would be looking at a NHL 3.5 hydraulic lime @ a 3:1 ratio 3 parts sand and 1 part lime. The sand would be a washed sand but again without seeing it in person I couldn’t tell you the exact sand. As for when it is ready for jointing depends greatly on how well you have reduced the suction of the brickwork by wetting prior to pointing, temperature, and how dry the mix is. If you go to @mike wye www.mikewye.co.uk you may get a suitable premixed bag that suits your colour
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Great, thanks for the advise I'll wait until weather gets warmer before I start it and see how it goes , keep up the good work with the tutorials though learning a lot from them ..
Nice work and very well presented video. Not really knowing anything about repointing, can I ask what you think of electric mortar pointing guns and why you use the hawk and towel instead?
Thank you it’s really appreciated, I haven’t used an electric mortar gun for a long enough period to say it’s not good, but the reason I use a hawk and trowel is that you can really force the mortar into deep voids and also use a variety of different mortars. Mortar guns you have to have the mix wet enough to pump through the gun and also you are limited to how far the mortar will successfully fill deep voids.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks, that makes sense. I potentially have a large area (100m2) to do and the 'ease' of the electric gun looked tempting. The mortar mix is a NHL2:SharpSand in 1:2.5. Brickwork is brand new, but had what I think is a frost issue so needs repointing. Using a mortar rake looks easy enough, but hawk and trowel looks like experience would really pay off on an area that size, unless you think the electric mortar gun would be OK with that mix.
Thanks for the demo and advice! Just found your channel and have subscribed. Do you have any tips for repointing the joint where the damp proof course is? Do you cover it with mortar or leave it showing through a bit? Mine is quite recessed in places. Nice to see West Sussex :)
Just be careful not to damage it. A small amount of mortar covering the external damp proof course isn’t going to cause you an issue with damp especially if you have a clear cavity with no insulation. Just make it look nice and tidy and you will be fine. If you feel you might damage it, it’s best to leave it.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Ok great, thanks for the reply - I'll be extra careful. A great help! Keep up the good work, I'll look forward to more vids!
Hi thanks for watching, if your doing a stiffer mix then you will need to ensure that the brickwork is well soaked. I would look to run the hose on it at least three times beforehand. Also if your making a stiff mix it’s vital that the sand and cement is well mixed prior to adding water. If your using a hawk and finger trowel a stiff mix might make your wrists a bit sore but it’s certainly something you can do. Hope I’ve answered your question. If you need anymore advice, let me know.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hi again thanks for reply. I was only thinking stiffer mix so less chance of staining faces of brick. Am going to start today, il do a mix same as you and hopefully goes to plan lol. Thanks again 👌👍
You could go a bit stiffer to avoid smudging, take your time and don’t try and scrape anything off as you go. Good luck, is it your first time pointing?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Well chuffed thanks to your videos and your advice. Just done wall on on side of house as a tester (8ft x 6ft). I raked out yesterday so could have a crack today. I found it harder with stiffer mix, so had similar consistency to your motar in video and found it much better. It took me around 4hrs 🙈🤣 but looks good no mess on bricks at all. Definitely gave me the confidence to start on gable end of house now. Il split it up into sections and do bit day by day, il soon have it done. Thanks again👌👌👍
Hi Randy, yes if you brush the wall with a soft coco brush about an hour or so after, depending on how well it is curing. You shouldn’t need to brick acid after, the trick is if you over fill the joints don’t remove the mortar off the bricks straight away, leave it until it’s ready to shape. If the bricks you are pointing are of a smooth nature then consider having a slightly dryer mix but remember to pre soak the wall and allow to dry off slightly.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks! This is very helpful. I was thinking that I could keep the bricks clean enough while pointing and then striking to avoid having to acid wash after brushing, like you say. Appreciate the advice!
Don’t forget to subscribe for your chance to win a Hilti angle grinder, applies to the first 1000 subscribers only!!!
Do you have US amazon affiliate links? I’m happy to send you the commission. Also what kind of mortar and plasticizer should I get?
@@tipr8739 I don't have any us links I'm afraid, but thank you for the thought. It depends on what you are pointing around and the age of the building as to what mortar you would use, here is a link to a us. site that you may find helpful www.thespruce.com/recommended-guide-for-selection-of-mortar-mix-type-844821
This was a very informative lesson. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this job the right way! You make it look easy. That’s always the sign of a pro.
This is the proper way a professional repoints brickwork. Using a hawk and pointer is superior to a grout bag and the powered pointers because it insures no voids in the joint. I have 30 years experience in masonry in the U.S. and the last several years have been masonry restoration.
Thanks Owen, I agree completely.
No it's not... ffs man...
I disagree, I have almost no experience, but I have done my own home and the previous "professional" who did the repointing on my home did not push in the mortar fully in many places, and the mortar dried to quickly making it almost like sand. He did the home the traditional way. I tried both techniques, using a mortar gun and doing it traditionally. With both it's very easy to see when the joints are filled enough, because you always should finish by pushing them in and removing the excess material. Also, the mortar in the gun needs to be more "runny" making it so that you need to water it down less often afterwards.
There is always new ways of doing things doesnt mean old ways are obsolete. We should embrace technological advancement as it creates choices
I was having difficulty pointing the verticals. Your upturn of the hawk while scraping is the trick I needed. Cheers.
It’s one of the things I struggled with when first starting many years ago 🤣 glad I helped you out.
Using that hawk the way you do is the best way I've seen this done. It make for a less messy and neat repair.
Excellent job!
You do really good job 👍 old school used to do loads of pointing 40 years experienced stone work and old church ragstone . weather struck on old red rubbers brick my mix use to gauge it 4 soft sand/ half cement /half lime and little nib of ronfix in mix or went spr came out it gives it better stability 👍 I've watched a few your videos on RUclips and I am pressure with your work 👍 who taught you 👍
Brilliant. I just realized after watching several videos that I will be more comfortable doing this left handed. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
Twenty years ago we moved into a house badly in need of some repointing low down where plants had been, so I read up on everything and practiced on an old brick toilet in the back yard. Managed quite well - bit messy, but OK. Now some other bricks need a bit of work. You've shown me how I can use different tools for an easier and better job. Thanks so much.
Best pointing video I have watched , wish I had watched it before i did my bay window !! 🤣
Just finished pointing after your video, a true tradesmen fantastic tips and skill, you make it look a easier than it is 😁
Thanks Chris, yeah I’ve done it for so long now, could probably do it with my eyes closed 🤣 anything you found difficult that maybe I missed out explaining?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think you covered everything, the little dryer tip was really good for me as a novice. I suppose PPE is important for a someone without experience, I did use gloves because I lacked skill 👍I also used knee pads.
Great instructional video delivered in a nice way.
Most helpful video I have found about the basics of repointing. The volume is pretty low though, I had to turn it WAY up to hear it properly.
Thank you, it was one of the first videos I had done, I have got a better mic now and will bring out some new videos once the weather warms up. Thanks for watching 👍
Been pointing for more years than I care to remember. Pointing with a hawk and trowel very out dated. I use a pointing gun and king fisher pointing. Excellent product. Quick and easy to use.
It is old school but it has its advantages.
you're technique is so slick top work here, thanks for taking the time to share.
Best demo I’ve found. Thanks
Thank you, I’ll be putting out a better quality video in the coming weeks, with a little more detail and some closer shots
Very helpful. Well explained and demonstrated. Thanks
Beautiful work and a great explanation. Cheers from a fellow left hander!
Thank you, could be better quality but glad you have found it useful none the less 👍
Good teacher. Congratulations
Good day, and just remember all the best spots and trades people are cack handed as an X Brighton boy, just like to say pointing and joining 1. made up my own hawk from offcut 10mil ply 35cm X 150mm ... basic tools 10mm tuck pointer and dotting pointer trowel for pirps...the wider hawk just gives a better spread for bed joining and dotter just more comfortable and speedy however why oh why don't you use a hose as mostly face brickwork is Bone-dry... working from top down for cutting out is less dust for 1. and when pointing then onto damp bricks gives so much better for larger areas pointing and lass striking joints with bucket handle finish ... the general job will also be sound and your lungs will also thank you into your happy pointing future 😊 Malcs in Perth WA ♥️
Can't believe how wobbly that wall was !!! 🙂
Never seen repointing carries out so efficiently as demonstrated here and this is a useful practical demonstration of repointing a modern brick wall. If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authourative further information, including recommended mortar mixes, when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
And what would your previous sighting have been that were different
\
A good deal of scruffy and untidy work and in particular the incorrect use of modern cement rich mortar use on old walls that should have been pointed with lime based materials. Many modern bricklayers do not learn about lime but thankfully some are now realizing the benefits of this tried and tested material. This is all explained in BRE Good Repair Guide No 24.
expert level tips - thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I find this hypnotic. It's a new form of ASMR! ☺
Subscribed and watch... just because it's so mesmerizing to watch tuck pointing
Thanks for the tips , it was a great help. Can I just mention it seems hard to get trade people to do small jobs nowadays.
brilliant!!!!! really informative and shows best way to do this.
Glad it was helpful!
Again thanks, yours I found the most yours the most useful tips. Cement arrived today so I made a start.
'Extras' I would have liked to see:
1. Uneven brickwork - e.g. new apprentice work, poor string work, perps varying 6-15mm, hawk kept slipping!
2. Working in warm sunshine? How often do you 'wet it'?
3. With such uneven beds, do you go for the narrowest tuck trowel or keep two handy?
4. You show working to an external corner, what about an internal corner?
5. (note I'm a newbie) - working top to bottom, how 'wide' a strip would you suggest please?
As with many manual skills, the pro's make it look easy... until you try to emulate them 🙂
Very helpful. Outstanding work and great explanation
Thanks Nick 👍
Excellent video, many thanks
Great technique 👌
You do great work mate
Thanks Jamie 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I'm from Massachusetts USA, what do u charge for spalling brick replacement? How much in USA dollars by the brick
Just subscribed pal very informative videos gonna binge watch a few as we speak
Very good teacher!
Amen.
Nice job. I’ve done a lot of repointing and never used my hawk. I use my hawk for plastering or compound or stucco. I will be trying it. I’m ambidextrous so if one side gets tired I switch. Keep up the good work.
The hawk for plastering is larger than the one typically used for tuckpointing
Great video mate I'm just about to do front of my house I'm a painter to trade pointed a bit years ago but watching this has been very beneficial thank you
Glad you have found it useful 👍 that’s what it’s all about. Good luck with the pointing. If there is anything you would like me to explain better, just let me know.
Brilliant, thanks so much
Have you got a video for flush finish pointing?
This video really helped me to point quickly with hawk. Very good method.
How long does 30 square meters take you roughly, raked out and repointed?
I would normally allow 1 man day for 15m2 cut and point. Thanks for watching and glad this video helped 👍
Thank you for posting this video.
You're welcome
Professional job, thanks
great video, very helpful, but i thought i was seeing things as the wall rocked back and forward, but it was the scaffold lol
Thanks for making the video very helpful
I needed to do some brickwork at home. Your video and the explanations have helped me so much to tackle the job. Thankyou
I’m left handed (plasterer) I point exactly the same way 👍
Great video homie
You calm boy and good boy
I think it is enough for you
Excellent training videos - Very skill-full. Really interested in learning more. Just subscribed.
When you're ready Wendy , my house needs doing . 😊
Hello , what is the ratio for your mortar mix ,any additives, how long to mix .Thank you for sharing 👍
Normally on a fairly modern property like this it’s a 4 sand : 1 cement mix. Mix them together dry until it’s a uniform colour and fine powder with no lumps. Add some plasticiser or integral waterproofer if pointing below the damp proof course, I like to use Sika products. Just don’t add loads of water, you will get a better consistency if you add little bits and keep mixing.
? Your link is to the 8mm tuckpointing trowel, you name it as 10mm?
Which do you use please (or is it brickwork dependent?).
Please turn up the mic - you're very soft spoken.
Informative, thanks.
Thanks for letting me know. I generally have a selection of sizes for different sized joints. It’s always best to ensure the trowel fits into the joint, so you can push that mortar right to the back of the joint.
Great job
Brilliance 👍🏻
Thanks
Thanks for this
Watching this 4 years later 💯
🤣 I should really do a better one
Excellent
Great vid....im doing the front of my house in a couple of weeks ( just pricing the scaffold up now......wow) i did a bit of pointing many moons ago when i was a young lad so you vid has come in very handy ...keep up the good work and ive subbed
Thanks for the comment and subscribing 👍 if you have any questions just let me know. Good luck.
Thanks for the video, exactly what i was looking for to fix a damp issue around front bay window.
Thanks for the comment 👍 has it solved your damp problem? Normally pointing isn’t really the cure and there is another underlying issue like a bridged cavity, condensation, window placement etc if you need further help send me an email with a picture and I can try and advise further.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks for the offer. It's a rental property and I haven't done the work yet but i will send you photos when i get them.
Thank you very useful.
Would you wet the brick if you was pointing indoors, eg brick slips ?
I would certainly give it a mist spray quite a few times to reduce suction rate and help with adhesion 👍
Nice work there buddy.
Thanks 👍
Thank you!
Your welcome
Cheers for this.
Any tips on matching mortar colour when there's only a few parts that need repointing?
Wet the wall first to see roughly the colour of the mortar when wet, then go to your local builders merchants and view the building sand available ( take a couple of samples if you can). Colour of mortars depend on the aggregate used and the binder I.e cement, lime and the ratio. If in doubt email me a picture.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington cheers, that was very helpful. If I have any questions I'll definitely email you!
Any tips or vids on how to point on convex corners so the mortar doesn't drop out 🤯🤯 Thanks for the great videos
Get a margin trowel that’s around 1” or so, flatten the mortar on the hawk to just less than the joint size, pick up the mortar on the top of the margin trowel and apply to the joint with a slight sideways motion to enable the mortar to adhere. Make sure you clean the trowel after each stroke to avoid smudging.
I liked your video. You look like you are very good at what you do. Very informative. Just need to speak up a little.
Thanks Patrick, I have purchased a better microphone since then. Keep an eye out for more videos in the new year 👍
Only thing I'd add is use the whole tool. Tip toe the mud in a small amount at a time gets hard on the hands.
Yeah I do but couldn’t really show anyone starting to just fire it in straight away 🤣
I need to repoint the front of my house, it gets a lot of weather. I googled mortar mixes for repointing and got a lot of different answers, what would you suggest i use and what additives ? Thanks in advance.
What’s the age of the property? If you send an email to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.uk with a picture of your property, a close up of the mortar and address, I can give you a good idea on what mix to use along with any additives you may require.
Using red building sand (as opposed to yellow building sand) will give a more sandy coloured final mortar finish which is preferable in my opinion. Would you recommend spraying with a brickwork waterproofing product when the mortar is fully dry. Great video and very useful thanks
Rain forecast 3pm, can I start repointing at 0800? How long to leave it before 'rain' please?
Depends how exposed the wall is and how wet the bricks are etc. If wet weather is forecast, I find it handy to add a touch of waterproofer in the mix instead of plasticiser
Excellent job/do you use a mortar gun these days, what mix would you do on a job on the sea front? Many thanks
What if the existing wall is already painted? I want to flash point my fireplace but it's already painted. So I am trying to find out whether and how to remove the existing paint to flash repoint it.
That’s how it is done!!
I have a Hawk, I named it, Tony. It's Tony Hawk!🤖
Just about to start, daunting task. I appreciate all the tips. I have picked out a lots of old mortar, some of it wet. Should I leave and just take out enough to repoint? Very old home.
Thank you! 👍 😊
You're welcome 😊
Very handy video as i am left handed too. How deep did you take the old mortar out ?
As deep as you can get the blade generally, aim for 25mm
How do you get your mortar more fluffy and sticky?
Is it mixing the mortar longer and letting it sit before you use it?
Thank you!
Sieve the sand before adding cement or just make sure that when combined that no lumps exist, and the mix is a uniform colour, add a splash of plasticiser to the water and gradually add the water, too much water and you’ve made soup.
Great tutorial, subscribed ... Any tips on matching up mortar colour .... Specifically lime mortar..?
Thank you, what kind of colour are you looking to achieve? Colour matching mortars will be the next video.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I live in a 100 year old house which needs a lots of repointing work. I'd just like to try get close to the original lime mortar so the new pointing doesn't stand out against the old. I did a small area recently using 3 plastering sand, 1 sharp sand and 1 and a half lime and it was a lot lighter. I wonder if I should have used less lime or more sand etc
My suggestion would be to have a look at Cornish limes website or Mike wye associates they have biscuits of coloured mortar samples that may match your desired colour if not then it would be a case of buying some natural pigments and testing or get the mortar analysed to achieve a perfect result.
Great video!One of the most informative I've seen. That's one job I'm not looking forward to!I imagine the racking out before hand to be the worst part.I thought I would use a 4 and a half inch angle grinder rigged up to a vacuum cleaner,any thoughts would be welcome from a pro!🙂👍
Thank you, don’t dread it, enjoy the learning curve. You can use a 4 1/2” angle grinder just go deep with the blade as best as you can. If your talking about using a normal vacuum cleaner then you may as well not use one, once the dust gets sucked in it will clog the filter in a matter of minutes. Hire one from a tool hire place and it will do the job. 👍 good luck!
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your advice, I'm thinking about buying an industrial wet and dry vacuum cleaner, as I will have other uses for it aswell. 😀👍
I’m coming up to 40 years old and really want to get off site work. I’ve only ever repointed one bungalow but I really fancy giving it a go full time. Have you ever found it hard to keep the work coming in ? Great video 👍
Go for it, never been a day out of work. I would recommend doing all the back work first I.e website etc then book work a month in advance as quotes start to come in, before quitting your day job.
That’s a good skill mate, gonna have a crack at it tomorrow.
👍 take your time and check the drying speed as you go, you don’t want it to dry to quick. Good luck! Send me a pic of you can to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.Uk would be good to see.
Good Training Video. Thanks
Your welcome 👍 if you have any questions or would like a video on a specific matter just let me know.
Strange optical illusion - the wall looks like it is moving - but it is the scaffolding moving - because the camera is on the scaffolding...
After watching your video I have begun to point garage and also bottom 2 horizontals on house upto damp course membrane. It doesn't look half bad for a complete novice. Let's see how long it stays in for 😆
Nice 👍 well done. How did you find doing the perps at ground level?
Easier lower level tbh 👍
Quite abit of dried mortar on the brick faces. What's the best way to get that off?
Hi Jody, did you brush off your work with a soft brush? If the mortar has cured then a light acid wash should remove the mortar on the face of the brick. It’s best to dilute the brick acid with water, apply to the area, brush area and then rinse off straight after.
I did brush it off but in turn I've smudged onto brick faces too when it was still wet. I've managed to get most of it off with a wire brush. Acid washing is another option 👍. Thanks
We use a much dryer mixture here. First we moisturize the wall. Then the mortar is applied and finished in the specific joint shape. For example brushed, recessed, cut, etc. The mortar is only moistened up to the point that you can form a ball with it in your hand and it stays together, but cannot press out any water at all. You can work very fast that way. The mortar hardens perfectly and you will have no problems with smudging. Only never do this while it's freezing, raining or when you have full sunshine on the wall. On a cloudy and cool day it's perfect to do this kind of work. But that is probably the way you work as well. We use a fine kind of sand, called silver sand, for jointing here. It's much finer than the sand used for masonry. I have put down some links below:
ruclips.net/video/v2Ig7C2XhAc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/UwegIy6xfJA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/PkMb3MvOQ0A/видео.html
Thanks for the comment it was good to watch how others point in another country, we use silver sand also depending on the mortar needed on each property, it’s great to work with and leaves a great smooth finish but like you say the weather conditions have to be just right.
Great video! Just one question, apologies if you have mentioned this in the video, but what size finger trowel do I use? Does it have to be small enough to actually fit inside the joint (Gap)?
Thank you, I have put a link in the description for the finger trowel it’s a 10mm, always better to use a smaller finger trowel to be able to push the mortar into the joint. 👍
Thanks for the prompt reply. Not working on a Bank Holiday? Whatever next. LOL!!
amazing!
Nice work- though I was trained to do purp joints 1st
Good man🕌
Old school rules 😊
I want to learn (from Indonesia)
What mix you using for repointing? Thx for a great vid👍
I point with lots of different mixes, the most common is a 4 sand 1 cement ratio but it depends on the property and what mix was used when it was built. Another common mix was 6 sand 1 hydrated lime and 1 cement. The sand and cement you use has a great impact on the overall colour of the pointing. Thanks for watching.
Hi mate great videos. Really informative and to the point. I've just bought a house and building reports suggest the whole thing needs re pointing. Would you rake out a whole wall then go back and point or do bottom half then top half? Got a hell of a job on my hands. I'm also in sussex so may give you a shout 😁🤟
Thank you 👍 I would take out an elevation at a time and point from top down. If you need anymore tips I’ll be happy to help.
Hi, great video, but the mortar gaps on my house are 5mm and less. When I am grinding out I am cutting into the bricks and something is telling me this is not good. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers. 👍
Hi John, get a diamond cutting blade rather than a mortar raking blade, they will be 3mm and stop the cutting in the brick.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Many thanks for your swift reply, I am doing the pointing now but it makes it difficult when the gaps between the bricks is narrower than my 6mm striker, you make it look so easy 😬
Get the striker going in almost flat to avoid mortar going over the top brick, it may pay to have a stiffer mix to prevent mortar stains too. If you go with a stiffer mix make sure that you mist spray not long after putting it in.
Not quite pointing. What would you use if you had to bag rub Engineering brick.(Red Mortar or red sand with a red dye) Or something else. was thinking of oiling the brickwork after. Thanks..
I’ll be honest I’ve never had the opportunity to use the bag rub method, but I would say that if you were to have to use this method you would use a lime mortar with red oxide and lime wash after. Is this a job you have to carry out using this method?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I can point it up, but the joints are very narrow. I would say this is specialist pointing, and very slow.
Also would the lime not come through and stain the brick..
It would be good to see a picture Reg, I can then advise on the best method if you like?
Thank u
Great tutorial thanks, I'm considering repointing my small kitchen extension but after seeing videos about different types of cement to use ( general purpose, lime mortar, etc, ) I'm not entirely sure which mortar to use , my house is a terraced house built in the early 1900s ,but the extension is a lot newer but built before I moved in , is there a way of telling which mortar they used by looking at it , I know it's not a good idea to use cement mortar onto existing lime mortar so not sure which to buy , and also would you use normal building sand or sharp sand?? Thanks..
Hi Carl, going on the pictures the you sent over, I would say that it was a lime mortar.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Thankyou , could you tell me what mix I would need exactly (sorry complete novice at pointing) how many parts sand , how many lime etc which sand, lime to buy, also when will I know when it's about time to rub up the joints etc , sorry for all these questions but after watching your tutorials you've given me the confidence to try it myself .thanks .
It’s hard to say without seeing it in person. But you would be looking at a NHL 3.5 hydraulic lime @ a 3:1 ratio 3 parts sand and 1 part lime. The sand would be a washed sand but again without seeing it in person I couldn’t tell you the exact sand. As for when it is ready for jointing depends greatly on how well you have reduced the suction of the brickwork by wetting prior to pointing, temperature, and how dry the mix is. If you go to @mike wye www.mikewye.co.uk you may get a suitable premixed bag that suits your colour
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Great, thanks for the advise I'll wait until weather gets warmer before I start it and see how it goes , keep up the good work with the tutorials though learning a lot from them ..
Nice work and very well presented video. Not really knowing anything about repointing, can I ask what you think of electric mortar pointing guns and why you use the hawk and towel instead?
Thank you it’s really appreciated, I haven’t used an electric mortar gun for a long enough period to say it’s not good, but the reason I use a hawk and trowel is that you can really force the mortar into deep voids and also use a variety of different mortars. Mortar guns you have to have the mix wet enough to pump through the gun and also you are limited to how far the mortar will successfully fill deep voids.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks, that makes sense. I potentially have a large area (100m2) to do and the 'ease' of the electric gun looked tempting. The mortar mix is a NHL2:SharpSand in 1:2.5. Brickwork is brand new, but had what I think is a frost issue so needs repointing. Using a mortar rake looks easy enough, but hawk and trowel looks like experience would really pay off on an area that size, unless you think the electric mortar gun would be OK with that mix.
excellent!
Hi, what width is your tuck trowel. Not sure of the right width to buy.
Thanks for the demo and advice! Just found your channel and have subscribed. Do you have any tips for repointing the joint where the damp proof course is? Do you cover it with mortar or leave it showing through a bit? Mine is quite recessed in places. Nice to see West Sussex :)
Just be careful not to damage it. A small amount of mortar covering the external damp proof course isn’t going to cause you an issue with damp especially if you have a clear cavity with no insulation. Just make it look nice and tidy and you will be fine. If you feel you might damage it, it’s best to leave it.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Ok great, thanks for the reply - I'll be extra careful. A great help! Keep up the good work, I'll look forward to more vids!
Hi been watching your videos for advice. Just quick question. Is ok to point with a stiffer mix? Ive got gable end on my house to do. Cheers
Hi thanks for watching, if your doing a stiffer mix then you will need to ensure that the brickwork is well soaked. I would look to run the hose on it at least three times beforehand. Also if your making a stiff mix it’s vital that the sand and cement is well mixed prior to adding water. If your using a hawk and finger trowel a stiff mix might make your wrists a bit sore but it’s certainly something you can do.
Hope I’ve answered your question.
If you need anymore advice, let me know.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hi again thanks for reply. I was only thinking stiffer mix so less chance of staining faces of brick. Am going to start today, il do a mix same as you and hopefully goes to plan lol. Thanks again 👌👍
You could go a bit stiffer to avoid smudging, take your time and don’t try and scrape anything off as you go. Good luck, is it your first time pointing?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Well chuffed thanks to your videos and your advice. Just done wall on on side of house as a tester (8ft x 6ft). I raked out yesterday so could have a crack today. I found it harder with stiffer mix, so had similar consistency to your motar in video and found it much better. It took me around 4hrs 🙈🤣 but looks good no mess on bricks at all. Definitely gave me the confidence to start on gable end of house now. Il split it up into sections and do bit day by day, il soon have it done. Thanks again👌👌👍
Nice, that’s what I like to hear. Glad the videos have helped you and well done for giving it a go. 👍
Do you brush the wall after finishing the joints? Seems like some folks do, but then you need to come back and acid wash the brick to clean, right?
Hi Randy, yes if you brush the wall with a soft coco brush about an hour or so after, depending on how well it is curing. You shouldn’t need to brick acid after, the trick is if you over fill the joints don’t remove the mortar off the bricks straight away, leave it until it’s ready to shape. If the bricks you are pointing are of a smooth nature then consider having a slightly dryer mix but remember to pre soak the wall and allow to dry off slightly.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks! This is very helpful. I was thinking that I could keep the bricks clean enough while pointing and then striking to avoid having to acid wash after brushing, like you say. Appreciate the advice!
Yeah you’ll be fine, just take your time and pay attention to how much your putting in 👍