@@tipr8739 I don't have any us links I'm afraid, but thank you for the thought. It depends on what you are pointing around and the age of the building as to what mortar you would use, here is a link to a us. site that you may find helpful www.thespruce.com/recommended-guide-for-selection-of-mortar-mix-type-844821
You do really good job 👍 old school used to do loads of pointing 40 years experienced stone work and old church ragstone . weather struck on old red rubbers brick my mix use to gauge it 4 soft sand/ half cement /half lime and little nib of ronfix in mix or went spr came out it gives it better stability 👍 I've watched a few your videos on RUclips and I am pressure with your work 👍 who taught you 👍
This is the proper way a professional repoints brickwork. Using a hawk and pointer is superior to a grout bag and the powered pointers because it insures no voids in the joint. I have 30 years experience in masonry in the U.S. and the last several years have been masonry restoration.
I disagree, I have almost no experience, but I have done my own home and the previous "professional" who did the repointing on my home did not push in the mortar fully in many places, and the mortar dried to quickly making it almost like sand. He did the home the traditional way. I tried both techniques, using a mortar gun and doing it traditionally. With both it's very easy to see when the joints are filled enough, because you always should finish by pushing them in and removing the excess material. Also, the mortar in the gun needs to be more "runny" making it so that you need to water it down less often afterwards.
Thanks Chris, yeah I’ve done it for so long now, could probably do it with my eyes closed 🤣 anything you found difficult that maybe I missed out explaining?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think you covered everything, the little dryer tip was really good for me as a novice. I suppose PPE is important for a someone without experience, I did use gloves because I lacked skill 👍I also used knee pads. Great instructional video delivered in a nice way.
This was a very informative lesson. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this job the right way! You make it look easy. That’s always the sign of a pro.
Twenty years ago we moved into a house badly in need of some repointing low down where plants had been, so I read up on everything and practiced on an old brick toilet in the back yard. Managed quite well - bit messy, but OK. Now some other bricks need a bit of work. You've shown me how I can use different tools for an easier and better job. Thanks so much.
Been pointing for more years than I care to remember. Pointing with a hawk and trowel very out dated. I use a pointing gun and king fisher pointing. Excellent product. Quick and easy to use.
Great video mate I'm just about to do front of my house I'm a painter to trade pointed a bit years ago but watching this has been very beneficial thank you
Glad you have found it useful 👍 that’s what it’s all about. Good luck with the pointing. If there is anything you would like me to explain better, just let me know.
Nice job. I’ve done a lot of repointing and never used my hawk. I use my hawk for plastering or compound or stucco. I will be trying it. I’m ambidextrous so if one side gets tired I switch. Keep up the good work.
Again thanks, yours I found the most yours the most useful tips. Cement arrived today so I made a start. 'Extras' I would have liked to see: 1. Uneven brickwork - e.g. new apprentice work, poor string work, perps varying 6-15mm, hawk kept slipping! 2. Working in warm sunshine? How often do you 'wet it'? 3. With such uneven beds, do you go for the narrowest tuck trowel or keep two handy? 4. You show working to an external corner, what about an internal corner? 5. (note I'm a newbie) - working top to bottom, how 'wide' a strip would you suggest please? As with many manual skills, the pro's make it look easy... until you try to emulate them 🙂
Thanks for the comment 👍 has it solved your damp problem? Normally pointing isn’t really the cure and there is another underlying issue like a bridged cavity, condensation, window placement etc if you need further help send me an email with a picture and I can try and advise further.
Great vid....im doing the front of my house in a couple of weeks ( just pricing the scaffold up now......wow) i did a bit of pointing many moons ago when i was a young lad so you vid has come in very handy ...keep up the good work and ive subbed
👍 take your time and check the drying speed as you go, you don’t want it to dry to quick. Good luck! Send me a pic of you can to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.Uk would be good to see.
Great video!One of the most informative I've seen. That's one job I'm not looking forward to!I imagine the racking out before hand to be the worst part.I thought I would use a 4 and a half inch angle grinder rigged up to a vacuum cleaner,any thoughts would be welcome from a pro!🙂👍
Thank you, don’t dread it, enjoy the learning curve. You can use a 4 1/2” angle grinder just go deep with the blade as best as you can. If your talking about using a normal vacuum cleaner then you may as well not use one, once the dust gets sucked in it will clog the filter in a matter of minutes. Hire one from a tool hire place and it will do the job. 👍 good luck!
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your advice, I'm thinking about buying an industrial wet and dry vacuum cleaner, as I will have other uses for it aswell. 😀👍
Using red building sand (as opposed to yellow building sand) will give a more sandy coloured final mortar finish which is preferable in my opinion. Would you recommend spraying with a brickwork waterproofing product when the mortar is fully dry. Great video and very useful thanks
I’m coming up to 40 years old and really want to get off site work. I’ve only ever repointed one bungalow but I really fancy giving it a go full time. Have you ever found it hard to keep the work coming in ? Great video 👍
Go for it, never been a day out of work. I would recommend doing all the back work first I.e website etc then book work a month in advance as quotes start to come in, before quitting your day job.
Get a margin trowel that’s around 1” or so, flatten the mortar on the hawk to just less than the joint size, pick up the mortar on the top of the margin trowel and apply to the joint with a slight sideways motion to enable the mortar to adhere. Make sure you clean the trowel after each stroke to avoid smudging.
Hi mate great videos. Really informative and to the point. I've just bought a house and building reports suggest the whole thing needs re pointing. Would you rake out a whole wall then go back and point or do bottom half then top half? Got a hell of a job on my hands. I'm also in sussex so may give you a shout 😁🤟
I need to repoint the front of my house, it gets a lot of weather. I googled mortar mixes for repointing and got a lot of different answers, what would you suggest i use and what additives ? Thanks in advance.
What’s the age of the property? If you send an email to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.uk with a picture of your property, a close up of the mortar and address, I can give you a good idea on what mix to use along with any additives you may require.
Depends how exposed the wall is and how wet the bricks are etc. If wet weather is forecast, I find it handy to add a touch of waterproofer in the mix instead of plasticiser
? Your link is to the 8mm tuckpointing trowel, you name it as 10mm? Which do you use please (or is it brickwork dependent?). Please turn up the mic - you're very soft spoken. Informative, thanks.
Thanks for letting me know. I generally have a selection of sizes for different sized joints. It’s always best to ensure the trowel fits into the joint, so you can push that mortar right to the back of the joint.
Great video! Just one question, apologies if you have mentioned this in the video, but what size finger trowel do I use? Does it have to be small enough to actually fit inside the joint (Gap)?
Thank you, I have put a link in the description for the finger trowel it’s a 10mm, always better to use a smaller finger trowel to be able to push the mortar into the joint. 👍
Wet the wall first to see roughly the colour of the mortar when wet, then go to your local builders merchants and view the building sand available ( take a couple of samples if you can). Colour of mortars depend on the aggregate used and the binder I.e cement, lime and the ratio. If in doubt email me a picture.
Mate quick bit of advice first excellent video very informative. Second your doing a video for tradies ? Most of whom are likely half dead and your talking low ? Can you speak louder or wear a microphone or adjust levels after on future videos ?
Thanks for the comment Shane, it was the first video and have updated the microphone since. The video was made for anyone undertaking a repointing job with very little experience. 👍
Sieve the sand before adding cement or just make sure that when combined that no lumps exist, and the mix is a uniform colour, add a splash of plasticiser to the water and gradually add the water, too much water and you’ve made soup.
Thanks for the demo and advice! Just found your channel and have subscribed. Do you have any tips for repointing the joint where the damp proof course is? Do you cover it with mortar or leave it showing through a bit? Mine is quite recessed in places. Nice to see West Sussex :)
Just be careful not to damage it. A small amount of mortar covering the external damp proof course isn’t going to cause you an issue with damp especially if you have a clear cavity with no insulation. Just make it look nice and tidy and you will be fine. If you feel you might damage it, it’s best to leave it.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Ok great, thanks for the reply - I'll be extra careful. A great help! Keep up the good work, I'll look forward to more vids!
Nice work and very well presented video. Not really knowing anything about repointing, can I ask what you think of electric mortar pointing guns and why you use the hawk and towel instead?
Thank you it’s really appreciated, I haven’t used an electric mortar gun for a long enough period to say it’s not good, but the reason I use a hawk and trowel is that you can really force the mortar into deep voids and also use a variety of different mortars. Mortar guns you have to have the mix wet enough to pump through the gun and also you are limited to how far the mortar will successfully fill deep voids.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks, that makes sense. I potentially have a large area (100m2) to do and the 'ease' of the electric gun looked tempting. The mortar mix is a NHL2:SharpSand in 1:2.5. Brickwork is brand new, but had what I think is a frost issue so needs repointing. Using a mortar rake looks easy enough, but hawk and trowel looks like experience would really pay off on an area that size, unless you think the electric mortar gun would be OK with that mix.
I’ve got a a smallish area to repoint (no more than 5 sq metres) can I use a bucket of ready mixed mortar for this or are they not mixed in the right proportions? Great video by the way
Thank you, if you buy two bags of building sand and a bag of cement, this would be better than than pre mixed. I don’t think a ready mix would be enough for 5m2 . If you do 2 buckets of sand and 1/2 bucket cement this would give you enough mortar for about 6m2
On this one it was just a standard 4 sand: 1 cement. Keep an eye out for our next video showing in more detail how to repoint, I will cover different styles of pointing too. 👍
Hi, great video, but the mortar gaps on my house are 5mm and less. When I am grinding out I am cutting into the bricks and something is telling me this is not good. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers. 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your swift reply, I am doing the pointing now but it makes it difficult when the gaps between the bricks is narrower than my 6mm striker, you make it look so easy 😬
Get the striker going in almost flat to avoid mortar going over the top brick, it may pay to have a stiffer mix to prevent mortar stains too. If you go with a stiffer mix make sure that you mist spray not long after putting it in.
Volume very low, couldnt hear very much ..........but do You not find it takes longer to do it this way, Your more or less pointing twice. Also does anyone not re-point using a Pointing Trowel using the Weathered method any more ...? all I seem to see on RUclips is basically a narrow Mastic knife or a jointer . Not criticising, You did a good job, just commenting on how things have changed since I served My Apprentiship .
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Yes Your spot on there, it is ...........During My Bricklaying Life Ive tended to Joint new Work, and Point (with a Pointing Trowel) when re-pointing older Brickwork, but times change eh .......LOL, Thanks for the reply, look forward to watching more of Your Videos . P.S. Ive never got round to trying a Pointing / Mortar Gun, but theres still time yet ......LOL .
The older the property, the more I enjoy repointing, anyone can repoint to a bucket handle finish really. I wouldn’t worry about ever using a mortar gun, your not missing much. Stick with the pointing trowel 👍 thanks for your comment.
Great tutorial thanks, I'm considering repointing my small kitchen extension but after seeing videos about different types of cement to use ( general purpose, lime mortar, etc, ) I'm not entirely sure which mortar to use , my house is a terraced house built in the early 1900s ,but the extension is a lot newer but built before I moved in , is there a way of telling which mortar they used by looking at it , I know it's not a good idea to use cement mortar onto existing lime mortar so not sure which to buy , and also would you use normal building sand or sharp sand?? Thanks..
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thankyou , could you tell me what mix I would need exactly (sorry complete novice at pointing) how many parts sand , how many lime etc which sand, lime to buy, also when will I know when it's about time to rub up the joints etc , sorry for all these questions but after watching your tutorials you've given me the confidence to try it myself .thanks .
It’s hard to say without seeing it in person. But you would be looking at a NHL 3.5 hydraulic lime @ a 3:1 ratio 3 parts sand and 1 part lime. The sand would be a washed sand but again without seeing it in person I couldn’t tell you the exact sand. As for when it is ready for jointing depends greatly on how well you have reduced the suction of the brickwork by wetting prior to pointing, temperature, and how dry the mix is. If you go to @mike wye www.mikewye.co.uk you may get a suitable premixed bag that suits your colour
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Great, thanks for the advise I'll wait until weather gets warmer before I start it and see how it goes , keep up the good work with the tutorials though learning a lot from them ..
Hi yes that is correct it is more than likely a lime mortar. If you repoint with a cement based mortar over a lime mortar, it can potentially cause damp to be retained within the masonry due to cement based mortars being less permeable than lime mortars. This will then lead to faster decay of the masonry.
Hi Randy, yes if you brush the wall with a soft coco brush about an hour or so after, depending on how well it is curing. You shouldn’t need to brick acid after, the trick is if you over fill the joints don’t remove the mortar off the bricks straight away, leave it until it’s ready to shape. If the bricks you are pointing are of a smooth nature then consider having a slightly dryer mix but remember to pre soak the wall and allow to dry off slightly.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks! This is very helpful. I was thinking that I could keep the bricks clean enough while pointing and then striking to avoid having to acid wash after brushing, like you say. Appreciate the advice!
Hi thanks for watching, if your doing a stiffer mix then you will need to ensure that the brickwork is well soaked. I would look to run the hose on it at least three times beforehand. Also if your making a stiff mix it’s vital that the sand and cement is well mixed prior to adding water. If your using a hawk and finger trowel a stiff mix might make your wrists a bit sore but it’s certainly something you can do. Hope I’ve answered your question. If you need anymore advice, let me know.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hi again thanks for reply. I was only thinking stiffer mix so less chance of staining faces of brick. Am going to start today, il do a mix same as you and hopefully goes to plan lol. Thanks again 👌👍
You could go a bit stiffer to avoid smudging, take your time and don’t try and scrape anything off as you go. Good luck, is it your first time pointing?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Well chuffed thanks to your videos and your advice. Just done wall on on side of house as a tester (8ft x 6ft). I raked out yesterday so could have a crack today. I found it harder with stiffer mix, so had similar consistency to your motar in video and found it much better. It took me around 4hrs 🙈🤣 but looks good no mess on bricks at all. Definitely gave me the confidence to start on gable end of house now. Il split it up into sections and do bit day by day, il soon have it done. Thanks again👌👌👍
Personally we don’t do it in the winter due to the risk of frost damage. But if you absolutely have to then ensure the sand isn’t frozen, do not point if the temp is or going to drop below zero degrees. Double up some hessian to cover new work and leave until cured. Hope this helps 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Good pointing can make poor brickwork look good, and good brickwork look poor. When I think of pointing, I think of weather struck, Penny roll, Tuck pointing etc, unlike cheap unskilled half round bucket handle cheap and nasty Jointing. You can fool some of the people all the time (see other comments ) but you cant fooll old time Bricklayers.🤫
Who said I’m trying to fool anyone Denis, I agree repointing is much more than bucket handle finish but unfortunately a lazy nation opts for speed and cost effectiveness rather than traditional artisan work.
Don’t forget to subscribe for your chance to win a Hilti angle grinder, applies to the first 1000 subscribers only!!!
Do you have US amazon affiliate links? I’m happy to send you the commission. Also what kind of mortar and plasticizer should I get?
@@tipr8739 I don't have any us links I'm afraid, but thank you for the thought. It depends on what you are pointing around and the age of the building as to what mortar you would use, here is a link to a us. site that you may find helpful www.thespruce.com/recommended-guide-for-selection-of-mortar-mix-type-844821
I was having difficulty pointing the verticals. Your upturn of the hawk while scraping is the trick I needed. Cheers.
It’s one of the things I struggled with when first starting many years ago 🤣 glad I helped you out.
You do really good job 👍 old school used to do loads of pointing 40 years experienced stone work and old church ragstone . weather struck on old red rubbers brick my mix use to gauge it 4 soft sand/ half cement /half lime and little nib of ronfix in mix or went spr came out it gives it better stability 👍 I've watched a few your videos on RUclips and I am pressure with your work 👍 who taught you 👍
Can't believe how wobbly that wall was !!! 🙂
This is the proper way a professional repoints brickwork. Using a hawk and pointer is superior to a grout bag and the powered pointers because it insures no voids in the joint. I have 30 years experience in masonry in the U.S. and the last several years have been masonry restoration.
Thanks Owen, I agree completely.
No it's not... ffs man...
I disagree, I have almost no experience, but I have done my own home and the previous "professional" who did the repointing on my home did not push in the mortar fully in many places, and the mortar dried to quickly making it almost like sand. He did the home the traditional way. I tried both techniques, using a mortar gun and doing it traditionally. With both it's very easy to see when the joints are filled enough, because you always should finish by pushing them in and removing the excess material. Also, the mortar in the gun needs to be more "runny" making it so that you need to water it down less often afterwards.
Im in the process of having my gable end repointed...and am watching your videos to educate myself on how its done ... Thanks
Brilliant. I just realized after watching several videos that I will be more comfortable doing this left handed. Thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
Just finished pointing after your video, a true tradesmen fantastic tips and skill, you make it look a easier than it is 😁
Thanks Chris, yeah I’ve done it for so long now, could probably do it with my eyes closed 🤣 anything you found difficult that maybe I missed out explaining?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think you covered everything, the little dryer tip was really good for me as a novice. I suppose PPE is important for a someone without experience, I did use gloves because I lacked skill 👍I also used knee pads.
Great instructional video delivered in a nice way.
Best pointing video I have watched , wish I had watched it before i did my bay window !! 🤣
This was a very informative lesson. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this job the right way! You make it look easy. That’s always the sign of a pro.
I find this hypnotic. It's a new form of ASMR! ☺
Thanks for the tips , it was a great help. Can I just mention it seems hard to get trade people to do small jobs nowadays.
Twenty years ago we moved into a house badly in need of some repointing low down where plants had been, so I read up on everything and practiced on an old brick toilet in the back yard. Managed quite well - bit messy, but OK. Now some other bricks need a bit of work. You've shown me how I can use different tools for an easier and better job. Thanks so much.
Beautiful work and a great explanation. Cheers from a fellow left hander!
Thank you, could be better quality but glad you have found it useful none the less 👍
Best demo I’ve found. Thanks
Thank you, I’ll be putting out a better quality video in the coming weeks, with a little more detail and some closer shots
you're technique is so slick top work here, thanks for taking the time to share.
Very helpful. Well explained and demonstrated. Thanks
Good man🕌
Been pointing for more years than I care to remember. Pointing with a hawk and trowel very out dated. I use a pointing gun and king fisher pointing. Excellent product. Quick and easy to use.
It is old school but it has its advantages.
Brilliant, thanks so much
Great video mate I'm just about to do front of my house I'm a painter to trade pointed a bit years ago but watching this has been very beneficial thank you
Glad you have found it useful 👍 that’s what it’s all about. Good luck with the pointing. If there is anything you would like me to explain better, just let me know.
Very helpful. Outstanding work and great explanation
Thanks Nick 👍
Great technique 👌
Nice job. I’ve done a lot of repointing and never used my hawk. I use my hawk for plastering or compound or stucco. I will be trying it. I’m ambidextrous so if one side gets tired I switch. Keep up the good work.
The hawk for plastering is larger than the one typically used for tuckpointing
Subscribed and watch... just because it's so mesmerizing to watch tuck pointing
You calm boy and good boy
I think it is enough for you
amazing!
Thanks for making the video very helpful
Again thanks, yours I found the most yours the most useful tips. Cement arrived today so I made a start.
'Extras' I would have liked to see:
1. Uneven brickwork - e.g. new apprentice work, poor string work, perps varying 6-15mm, hawk kept slipping!
2. Working in warm sunshine? How often do you 'wet it'?
3. With such uneven beds, do you go for the narrowest tuck trowel or keep two handy?
4. You show working to an external corner, what about an internal corner?
5. (note I'm a newbie) - working top to bottom, how 'wide' a strip would you suggest please?
As with many manual skills, the pro's make it look easy... until you try to emulate them 🙂
Thanks for this
Thank you for posting this video.
You're welcome
Great job
Excellent
Just subscribed pal very informative videos gonna binge watch a few as we speak
Thank you!
Your welcome
You do great work mate
Thanks Jamie 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I'm from Massachusetts USA, what do u charge for spalling brick replacement? How much in USA dollars by the brick
Thank you very useful.
Thanks for the video, exactly what i was looking for to fix a damp issue around front bay window.
Thanks for the comment 👍 has it solved your damp problem? Normally pointing isn’t really the cure and there is another underlying issue like a bridged cavity, condensation, window placement etc if you need further help send me an email with a picture and I can try and advise further.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks for the offer. It's a rental property and I haven't done the work yet but i will send you photos when i get them.
I have a Hawk, I named it, Tony. It's Tony Hawk!🤖
Excellent training videos - Very skill-full. Really interested in learning more. Just subscribed.
When you're ready Wendy , my house needs doing . 😊
Professional job, thanks
Great vid....im doing the front of my house in a couple of weeks ( just pricing the scaffold up now......wow) i did a bit of pointing many moons ago when i was a young lad so you vid has come in very handy ...keep up the good work and ive subbed
Thanks for the comment and subscribing 👍 if you have any questions just let me know. Good luck.
Old school rules 😊
Strange optical illusion - the wall looks like it is moving - but it is the scaffolding moving - because the camera is on the scaffolding...
That’s how it is done!!
I liked your video. You look like you are very good at what you do. Very informative. Just need to speak up a little.
Thanks Patrick, I have purchased a better microphone since then. Keep an eye out for more videos in the new year 👍
That’s a good skill mate, gonna have a crack at it tomorrow.
👍 take your time and check the drying speed as you go, you don’t want it to dry to quick. Good luck! Send me a pic of you can to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.Uk would be good to see.
excellent!
Only thing I'd add is use the whole tool. Tip toe the mud in a small amount at a time gets hard on the hands.
Yeah I do but couldn’t really show anyone starting to just fire it in straight away 🤣
Good Training Video. Thanks
Your welcome 👍 if you have any questions or would like a video on a specific matter just let me know.
Great video!One of the most informative I've seen. That's one job I'm not looking forward to!I imagine the racking out before hand to be the worst part.I thought I would use a 4 and a half inch angle grinder rigged up to a vacuum cleaner,any thoughts would be welcome from a pro!🙂👍
Thank you, don’t dread it, enjoy the learning curve. You can use a 4 1/2” angle grinder just go deep with the blade as best as you can. If your talking about using a normal vacuum cleaner then you may as well not use one, once the dust gets sucked in it will clog the filter in a matter of minutes. Hire one from a tool hire place and it will do the job. 👍 good luck!
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Many thanks for your advice, I'm thinking about buying an industrial wet and dry vacuum cleaner, as I will have other uses for it aswell. 😀👍
Using red building sand (as opposed to yellow building sand) will give a more sandy coloured final mortar finish which is preferable in my opinion. Would you recommend spraying with a brickwork waterproofing product when the mortar is fully dry. Great video and very useful thanks
Nice work there buddy.
Thanks 👍
👍👍
Using that hawk the way you do is the best way I've seen this done. It make for a less messy and neat repair.
Excellent job!
Bro, can't you come over and do my house... It's nearly a hundred years old!!! Needs tlc for defo
I’m coming up to 40 years old and really want to get off site work. I’ve only ever repointed one bungalow but I really fancy giving it a go full time. Have you ever found it hard to keep the work coming in ? Great video 👍
Go for it, never been a day out of work. I would recommend doing all the back work first I.e website etc then book work a month in advance as quotes start to come in, before quitting your day job.
Any tips or vids on how to point on convex corners so the mortar doesn't drop out 🤯🤯 Thanks for the great videos
Get a margin trowel that’s around 1” or so, flatten the mortar on the hawk to just less than the joint size, pick up the mortar on the top of the margin trowel and apply to the joint with a slight sideways motion to enable the mortar to adhere. Make sure you clean the trowel after each stroke to avoid smudging.
Have you got a video for flush finish pointing?
This video really helped me to point quickly with hawk. Very good method.
How long does 30 square meters take you roughly, raked out and repointed?
I would normally allow 1 man day for 15m2 cut and point. Thanks for watching and glad this video helped 👍
Nice job 🙌 thanks for the video
Thanks Charlie 👍
Would you wet the brick if you was pointing indoors, eg brick slips ?
I would certainly give it a mist spray quite a few times to reduce suction rate and help with adhesion 👍
Hi mate great videos. Really informative and to the point. I've just bought a house and building reports suggest the whole thing needs re pointing. Would you rake out a whole wall then go back and point or do bottom half then top half? Got a hell of a job on my hands. I'm also in sussex so may give you a shout 😁🤟
Thank you 👍 I would take out an elevation at a time and point from top down. If you need anymore tips I’ll be happy to help.
I need to repoint the front of my house, it gets a lot of weather. I googled mortar mixes for repointing and got a lot of different answers, what would you suggest i use and what additives ? Thanks in advance.
What’s the age of the property? If you send an email to enquiries@coastalwallties.co.uk with a picture of your property, a close up of the mortar and address, I can give you a good idea on what mix to use along with any additives you may require.
Tooop👍
Excellent job/do you use a mortar gun these days, what mix would you do on a job on the sea front? Many thanks
Very handy video as i am left handed too. How deep did you take the old mortar out ?
As deep as you can get the blade generally, aim for 25mm
Rain forecast 3pm, can I start repointing at 0800? How long to leave it before 'rain' please?
Depends how exposed the wall is and how wet the bricks are etc. If wet weather is forecast, I find it handy to add a touch of waterproofer in the mix instead of plasticiser
? Your link is to the 8mm tuckpointing trowel, you name it as 10mm?
Which do you use please (or is it brickwork dependent?).
Please turn up the mic - you're very soft spoken.
Informative, thanks.
Thanks for letting me know. I generally have a selection of sizes for different sized joints. It’s always best to ensure the trowel fits into the joint, so you can push that mortar right to the back of the joint.
Enjoyed the video. Just a little bit quiet.
Great video! Just one question, apologies if you have mentioned this in the video, but what size finger trowel do I use? Does it have to be small enough to actually fit inside the joint (Gap)?
Thank you, I have put a link in the description for the finger trowel it’s a 10mm, always better to use a smaller finger trowel to be able to push the mortar into the joint. 👍
Thanks for the prompt reply. Not working on a Bank Holiday? Whatever next. LOL!!
Sound rubbish, But the video excellent
It was awful, I’ll do another one to compensate for the poor sound quality, maybe even in HD 🤣
Cheers for this.
Any tips on matching mortar colour when there's only a few parts that need repointing?
Wet the wall first to see roughly the colour of the mortar when wet, then go to your local builders merchants and view the building sand available ( take a couple of samples if you can). Colour of mortars depend on the aggregate used and the binder I.e cement, lime and the ratio. If in doubt email me a picture.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington cheers, that was very helpful. If I have any questions I'll definitely email you!
Mortar bag is much easier for me
Mate quick bit of advice first excellent video very informative. Second your doing a video for tradies ?
Most of whom are likely half dead and your talking low ?
Can you speak louder or wear a microphone or adjust levels after on future videos ?
Thanks for the comment Shane, it was the first video and have updated the microphone since. The video was made for anyone undertaking a repointing job with very little experience. 👍
How do you get your mortar more fluffy and sticky?
Is it mixing the mortar longer and letting it sit before you use it?
Thank you!
Sieve the sand before adding cement or just make sure that when combined that no lumps exist, and the mix is a uniform colour, add a splash of plasticiser to the water and gradually add the water, too much water and you’ve made soup.
Using a grout bag you could have finished that section in 10 minutes
If I wasn’t doing a video, I could have done it in 5 minutes 🤪
Grout bag was that not the witch out of rod and emu haha leave the lad alone hes got some good tips👍😉
Thanks for the demo and advice! Just found your channel and have subscribed. Do you have any tips for repointing the joint where the damp proof course is? Do you cover it with mortar or leave it showing through a bit? Mine is quite recessed in places. Nice to see West Sussex :)
Just be careful not to damage it. A small amount of mortar covering the external damp proof course isn’t going to cause you an issue with damp especially if you have a clear cavity with no insulation. Just make it look nice and tidy and you will be fine. If you feel you might damage it, it’s best to leave it.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Ok great, thanks for the reply - I'll be extra careful. A great help! Keep up the good work, I'll look forward to more vids!
Nice work and very well presented video. Not really knowing anything about repointing, can I ask what you think of electric mortar pointing guns and why you use the hawk and towel instead?
Thank you it’s really appreciated, I haven’t used an electric mortar gun for a long enough period to say it’s not good, but the reason I use a hawk and trowel is that you can really force the mortar into deep voids and also use a variety of different mortars. Mortar guns you have to have the mix wet enough to pump through the gun and also you are limited to how far the mortar will successfully fill deep voids.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks, that makes sense. I potentially have a large area (100m2) to do and the 'ease' of the electric gun looked tempting. The mortar mix is a NHL2:SharpSand in 1:2.5. Brickwork is brand new, but had what I think is a frost issue so needs repointing. Using a mortar rake looks easy enough, but hawk and trowel looks like experience would really pay off on an area that size, unless you think the electric mortar gun would be OK with that mix.
Volume!
I’ve got a a smallish area to repoint (no more than 5 sq metres) can I use a bucket of ready mixed mortar for this or are they not mixed in the right proportions? Great video by the way
Thank you, if you buy two bags of building sand and a bag of cement, this would be better than than pre mixed. I don’t think a ready mix would be enough for 5m2 . If you do 2 buckets of sand and 1/2 bucket cement this would give you enough mortar for about 6m2
Looks good
What’s the mix ?
On this one it was just a standard 4 sand: 1 cement. Keep an eye out for our next video showing in more detail how to repoint, I will cover different styles of pointing too. 👍
This is the same way I have done it for the past 20 years. I find it quick and neat. Great job mate.
Nice, yeah prefer this method over guns for sure. Thanks for the comment. 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Why not as a substitute for portland cement?
Hi, great video, but the mortar gaps on my house are 5mm and less. When I am grinding out I am cutting into the bricks and something is telling me this is not good. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers. 👍
Hi John, get a diamond cutting blade rather than a mortar raking blade, they will be 3mm and stop the cutting in the brick.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Many thanks for your swift reply, I am doing the pointing now but it makes it difficult when the gaps between the bricks is narrower than my 6mm striker, you make it look so easy 😬
Get the striker going in almost flat to avoid mortar going over the top brick, it may pay to have a stiffer mix to prevent mortar stains too. If you go with a stiffer mix make sure that you mist spray not long after putting it in.
Volume very low, couldnt hear very much ..........but do You not find it takes longer to do it this way, Your more or less pointing twice. Also does anyone not re-point using a Pointing Trowel using the Weathered method any more ...? all I seem to see on RUclips is basically a narrow Mastic knife or a jointer . Not criticising, You did a good job, just commenting on how things have changed since I served My Apprentiship .
Sorry, this is one of our first videos. We do lots of weather struck pointing, it’s a nicer look too 👍 but as you
know, nowadays it’s all about speed.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Yes Your spot on there, it is ...........During My Bricklaying Life Ive tended to Joint new Work, and Point (with a Pointing Trowel) when re-pointing older Brickwork, but times change eh .......LOL, Thanks for the reply, look forward to watching more of Your Videos . P.S. Ive never got round to trying a Pointing / Mortar Gun, but theres still time yet ......LOL .
The older the property, the more I enjoy repointing, anyone can repoint to a bucket handle finish really. I wouldn’t worry about ever using a mortar gun, your not missing much. Stick with the pointing trowel 👍 thanks for your comment.
Great tutorial thanks, I'm considering repointing my small kitchen extension but after seeing videos about different types of cement to use ( general purpose, lime mortar, etc, ) I'm not entirely sure which mortar to use , my house is a terraced house built in the early 1900s ,but the extension is a lot newer but built before I moved in , is there a way of telling which mortar they used by looking at it , I know it's not a good idea to use cement mortar onto existing lime mortar so not sure which to buy , and also would you use normal building sand or sharp sand?? Thanks..
Hi Carl, going on the pictures the you sent over, I would say that it was a lime mortar.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Thankyou , could you tell me what mix I would need exactly (sorry complete novice at pointing) how many parts sand , how many lime etc which sand, lime to buy, also when will I know when it's about time to rub up the joints etc , sorry for all these questions but after watching your tutorials you've given me the confidence to try it myself .thanks .
It’s hard to say without seeing it in person. But you would be looking at a NHL 3.5 hydraulic lime @ a 3:1 ratio 3 parts sand and 1 part lime. The sand would be a washed sand but again without seeing it in person I couldn’t tell you the exact sand. As for when it is ready for jointing depends greatly on how well you have reduced the suction of the brickwork by wetting prior to pointing, temperature, and how dry the mix is. If you go to @mike wye www.mikewye.co.uk you may get a suitable premixed bag that suits your colour
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Great, thanks for the advise I'll wait until weather gets warmer before I start it and see how it goes , keep up the good work with the tutorials though learning a lot from them ..
Could speak just alot louder!
Amen.
I have invested in a microphone so stay tuned for more videos when the days gets warmer. 👍
My house is just over 100 years old but needs repointing. I have been advised to use Lime mortar instead of cement. Is this correct..?
Hi yes that is correct it is more than likely a lime mortar. If you repoint with a cement based mortar over a lime mortar, it can potentially cause damp to be retained within the masonry due to cement based mortars being less permeable than lime mortars. This will then lead to faster decay of the masonry.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated. A pity you don't live nearby. I'd give you the work !!
Do you brush the wall after finishing the joints? Seems like some folks do, but then you need to come back and acid wash the brick to clean, right?
Hi Randy, yes if you brush the wall with a soft coco brush about an hour or so after, depending on how well it is curing. You shouldn’t need to brick acid after, the trick is if you over fill the joints don’t remove the mortar off the bricks straight away, leave it until it’s ready to shape. If the bricks you are pointing are of a smooth nature then consider having a slightly dryer mix but remember to pre soak the wall and allow to dry off slightly.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks! This is very helpful. I was thinking that I could keep the bricks clean enough while pointing and then striking to avoid having to acid wash after brushing, like you say. Appreciate the advice!
Yeah you’ll be fine, just take your time and pay attention to how much your putting in 👍
Hi. What size striker are you using? Thanks
Usually a 10mm but it’s worth having a varied selection to accommodate joint sizes and style 👍
Thanks for that. It didn't look like you'd raked out any old mortar, is that worth doing prior to repointing?
100% you need to take the mortar out to at least 25mm otherwise you may as well not bother doing it. It will just fall out if you don’t prep it well.
Hi been watching your videos for advice. Just quick question. Is ok to point with a stiffer mix? Ive got gable end on my house to do. Cheers
Hi thanks for watching, if your doing a stiffer mix then you will need to ensure that the brickwork is well soaked. I would look to run the hose on it at least three times beforehand. Also if your making a stiff mix it’s vital that the sand and cement is well mixed prior to adding water. If your using a hawk and finger trowel a stiff mix might make your wrists a bit sore but it’s certainly something you can do.
Hope I’ve answered your question.
If you need anymore advice, let me know.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hi again thanks for reply. I was only thinking stiffer mix so less chance of staining faces of brick. Am going to start today, il do a mix same as you and hopefully goes to plan lol. Thanks again 👌👍
You could go a bit stiffer to avoid smudging, take your time and don’t try and scrape anything off as you go. Good luck, is it your first time pointing?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Well chuffed thanks to your videos and your advice. Just done wall on on side of house as a tester (8ft x 6ft). I raked out yesterday so could have a crack today. I found it harder with stiffer mix, so had similar consistency to your motar in video and found it much better. It took me around 4hrs 🙈🤣 but looks good no mess on bricks at all. Definitely gave me the confidence to start on gable end of house now. Il split it up into sections and do bit day by day, il soon have it done. Thanks again👌👌👍
Nice, that’s what I like to hear. Glad the videos have helped you and well done for giving it a go. 👍
How would you go about pointing a wall in wintertime when it’s prone to frosting? Thanks in advance
Personally we don’t do it in the winter due to the risk of frost damage. But if you absolutely have to then ensure the sand isn’t frozen, do not point if the temp is or going to drop below zero degrees. Double up some hessian to cover new work and leave until cured.
Hope this helps 👍
You also want frostproofer in the mix if you are using sand and cement 👍
Noooooooo the hawk isn't suspose to touch the wall at all
Why should it matter if the overall result is the same if not better?
Speaking too softly. Have my phone turned up all the way. can barely hear you. Otherwise good job explaining.
VOLUME IS A LITTLE LOW
Thats chit! The title is Re Pointing. This is just simple joimting.
Oh I’m so sorry. Just curious but in your journey to being an expert, did you look up the meaning of repointing? 🤣
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Jointing is not Pointing! Simples. 74 year old Bricklayer.
Just for clarification what do you class as pointing? Hat off to you for you for your long service
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Good pointing can make poor brickwork look good, and good brickwork look poor. When I think of pointing, I think of weather struck, Penny roll, Tuck pointing etc, unlike cheap unskilled half round bucket handle cheap and nasty Jointing. You can fool some of the people all the time (see other comments ) but you cant fooll old time Bricklayers.🤫
Who said I’m trying to fool anyone Denis, I agree repointing is much more than bucket handle finish but unfortunately a lazy nation opts for speed and cost effectiveness rather than traditional artisan work.
🏗️🏘️🏘️🏘️🏘️🏘️
Wet the wall first
I did mate, I drench the wall several times before pointing to control suction and help adhesion
Not the best that tbf
gf.me/u/zk9b44
Please speak up.
Brought a new microphone so future videos will be better quality.