I used to mix for a pointing gang in Germany some 40 years ago (can't believe I just wrote that - where did those years go..!). Over there the brickies on a new build didn't point the wall as they went along. A specialist pointing gang would come in after the brickwork was done and finish off the pointing later. We'd use a much drier mx than shown here - it was just damp, and use a straight trowel the same as shown in the video - not a UK style pointing trowel, which is really slow as Roger says - and a curved hawk - always home made. And man, those German pointers were REALLY fast. thinking back it was about 10 seconds for a linear metre. They'd finish off with a bent piece of 15mm copper pipe bent in the same shape as the pointing trowel (Roger is using a bit of wood here) and a soft brush as suggested. They'd always have a beer on the go too... No, really. Happy days.
If you are right handed Roger, fill your bed joints from right to left. That way you are always pushing back against what you have just placed so you have no voids. It will be a lot faster. Cheers mate
A subject close to my heart! Glad you started this video by talking about the importance of matching the mix strength with existing wall. This is so very important. Can't remember if mentioned this already, but we repointed most of our lower ground floor of our house (about 60 sq m of wall) with a lime mortar last year. (NHL3.5) Keep explaining to people the reason we bothered using lime. The idea is that the mortar must be sacrificial to the brick, not the other way around. The walls are 185 years old. Shove cement mortar in them, and they will last another 5 years, continue with lime and they are good for another 150. Once you see a lime mortar wall repointed in cement mortar, you can't unsee it. Then you see it everywhere you go! Everywhere you see it, the faces of bricks have crumbled out and come off. No other reason. Such a shame. The whole process of raking out and repointing took three of us a good week. It was very painful on the hands (not like what you showed here, because the brick was very different and we packed the mortar in very hard). Hundreds of bags of dust came out when we raked out. I have some great before/after pics. The stuff was black and crumbly before we repointed, it fell out when you touched it. We raked back 20mm, partly because stuff was falling out already to that depth before we even raked out. In fact entire bricks were loose and dodgy so we needed to pull some out here and there and re-snap them the correct size to get them back in. Lot of hard work. Now it's amazing, firm, no dust comes off when you brush the bricks, lovely. As we went overseas straight afterwards we asked Anna's mum to come around and water the walls twice a day, which was pretty amusing for all. Walls look gorgeous now, as well - so will be keeping some of them exposed. However we accidentally bought too much NHL3.5, so if you know anyone who needs about 9 bags of the stuff (not cheap) then let me know - I'd rather it go to a good home than go off. We kept it off the floor in a reasonable warm and very well ventilated place
@@MatSmithLondon, I really like your approach to the repointing. Three questions: Besides the NHL, did you add anything else to the mix (like hydrated lime)? What mixing ratio did you use? Did you consider using a gun for the job?
As a novice - and non builder - I first repointed an Edwardian town house. Really good bricklaying on the front. Getting shabbier round the back and the bits that only the neighbours saw was not good at all. Luckily I had an excellent old guy "pointing" me in the right direction. Good lad, our Den. Moved to a Georgian/Victorian hunting lodge with 33 rooms, 29 chimneys, 50 foot tower and on and on. HugeVictorian bricks, tiny Georgian ones, really tight gage lines and a dragon of a listed building enforcer. Fortunately the County's monuments guy was a star and again pointed us in the right direction. We had to use all lime mortar, I found plastering sand worked well at matching the existing finish. Took f..n years. Keep up the good work - and stay safe everyone.
Hi Roger, another good video, one of the most difficult jobs you ever have to undertake. I struggled with it for years tried all sorts of tricks, one job in Cambridge I got it all raked out and washed off, and because I wanted to use a wet lime mortar (7 soft sand 1 lime 1torment(OPC)) mix which would stain the bricks I decided to use an oil based barrier on the bricks, I use a bottle of Mazola from a local shop!, it worked an absolute treat, got the job done in no time and washed of the snots as soon as it had dried a bit. I was delighted and when back a few months later to admire it, to my everlasting shame and embarrassment all the brickwork had gone almost black as the oil degraded!, I never tried that again!. One of the things II was told was that any attempt to wash fresh pointing with water would just make matters worse but if the brickwork and the muck are too dry it cracks and dries before it can chemically cure, if you are lucky you can brush off the worst a half-hour after you put it in. When I did the front of the house that I'm living in now I decided to wash the wall with the garden hose and apply dryish mortar (old yellow brick with lime mortar) to very wet bricks, again went in a treat, this time I chose to just leave it to dry completely and brush it off the next day - wrong again - I did the job now 15 years ago and the smears of muck are still showing all over the edges!, it is going to stay there for sure!. The next bit I tried was just a little patch, this time as before but I decided to try another tack, this time I cut a very deep chase , wet it thoroughly, pointed it up, struck it off with the trowel, put a bit of a skin on it, left it for twenty minutes then washed over it all with gallons of clean water and a soft sponge - at last - I cracked it!, apart from the mess on the ground!, absolutely perfect, if only I'd known that before. The last big pointing job a few years ago came in at about sixty pounds a square metre which I think is not too bad for a job that should last for as long as the house!. Cheers, Richard.
We point a lot of houses mainly brick for the council we use a pointing gun 2 lads do about 25sq metre a day 1 lad putting it in gun and 1 lad using a jointing iron . We use 1 lime 3 building sand 1 silver abit of motor plasticiser and abit of dye if needed so new pointing doesn’t look out of place
In America, we grind out as much old mortar as possible before applying the new mortar because it adds more surface area for the new mortar(and more of it) to adhere to and makes it less likely that water will be able to get in between your new mortar and the old mortar and frost heaving your new stuff clean off the chimney/wall. All too often you come to do roof flashing work on a chimney(that the customer claims was "recently repointed") and there's little 1/8" thick rectangular chunks of mortar laying on the roof and hanging out of the mortar beds, and usually(not all the time) that's because they just smeared a paper thin layer on top of the old stuff(that stuck to nothing) and called it a day. If you're not going to be doing any grinding, it's good to at least pressure wash what you're planning on repointing first to remove anything from the surface of the wall/chimney that that might interfere with adhesion of the new mortar to the old mortar whether it be dirt, dust, oil, plant material, or what have you, and also to dislodge any loose pieces of mortar or brick, because obviously you don't want to put your new stuff up against something that's fixin' to fall out. If possible, it's also good to figure out if the bricks you plan to repoint are high suction(capillary suction) bricks, because that will affect how wet your mortar mix will need to be or if you have to wet the brick first before applying the new mortar. Some bricks are thirsty and will drink the water right out of your mortar before it's done doing its thing, and that's no good. The science: canadamasonrydesigncentre.com/download/9th_symposium/MORJTS06.pdf
I am going to use this time to Sharpen my chisels, clean the van out and reorganize my power tools and clean them , keep safe everyone regards from Ireland Darren
I echo all the other comments - what a great video! Clear,concise and no nonsense, why aren't they all like you? Many thanks for sharing your skills and enthusiasms, much appreciated...
20 minutes watching you putting some sand and cement back in a wall and chirp away about this and that... Loved every minute! And what a real world moment at the end - hours of care and attention followed by one slight mishap - story of my life and no doubt many others lol! Great video once again Roger . Nice one.
Brilliant advice as always Rodger. A plumber myself I love pointing around pipes, flues etc. Building in missing brick and making good walls. Very satisfying job I find. Keep up the good work!
It isn't brilliant advice, it's the worst thing you can do to an old house. The pointing should be sacrificial, but if you use cement pointing then the brick or stone disappears. You must have seen this on old walls.
Everyone has their methods, but i normally use a 4:1 mix but knock it up fairly dry and water untill it can keep its shape that way you don’t smear on the brick work, I use a modified tuck pointer as well, spray the brickwork before so the mix doesn’t dry before curing. This method works well for all types of pointing and jointing finishes including bastard tuck pointing with putty.
Spot on , you can't compress water . This pointing will dry brilliant white and turn to dust in a week . Everything about it was wrong , This will now be deleted .
Given that there are so many types of masonry walls, getting the pointing right is not quite so simple as it might first appear. Generally speaking, joints should be raked out to at least twice their width, mortar pointing is a sacrificial material and should be weaker and more porous than the bricks, and the finished profile should ideally match the original design. Mortar must be compatible with the original materials and this is critical in the case of solid walls built using lime mortar as they need to dry out by evaporation. If you require reliable guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity. As a general rule, impermeable finishes should not be applied to external walls as this inhibits evapourative during and tends to trap moisture.
Brilliant video . Just a little tip, its a little easier if right handed, to start on right and pull the mortar into what you have already squeezed in.
I've just re watched this and realised that you work left to right just the same as I do, I've been advised so many times to work from right to left as to pack the mortar more easily, But I'm good and fast at pointing (probably because I hate doing it so want to get it over with without any call back) Your a wealth of experience and knowledge, thanks.
after pointing for nearly 20 yrs ive tried every type, trick, tip, method going and i can safely say ive seen people do cracking work using every type. its down to the skill of the tradesman doing the work mostly!
I’ve got an old walled garden which needs pointing, its £30 per square metre, which I can’t afford, but I’ve decided to try it myself, thanks for a very clear demonstration and helping me believe I can do it! 👍
Hi Roger, your pulling out every trick in the book to keep the videos coming, thank you its much appreciated! Hopefully your subscribers go through the roof! suppose you can turn a negative into a postive! Stay safe mate your a ledgend
It isn't brilliant advice, it's the worst thing you can do to an old house. The pointing should be sacrificial, but if you use cement pointing then the brick or stone disappears. You must have seen this on old walls.
good you pointed out about not using a strong mix otherwise it can take the face of the bricks off as well as all the other issues you mentioned. The odd occasion I've repointed, and if large enough area I'll use a manual 'caulking style' pointing gun, but to stop bung-ups you need to sieve the sand, sounds a faff but it's still quicker and produces a nice result. Like someone already said, after the soaking I'll use a hand spray to 'top-up' the wall to help stop that suction. Hanging damp sacking over helps keep the sun and wind off to let it go off and not just dry out. My preference is 1x portland, 1x lime, 4x sand, that way you can get the fat up without bother to give a nice waterproof finish. Keep the videos coming!! Best wishes.
Believe it or not I used to be plumber years ago then went into bench joinery and manufacturing. I've done all my own pointing. I do it the same way you showed however thanks for the tip with a scraper for the perp's. I have my garage gable to do this summer. Great tip👍
As a DIY’er I thought it was taking me hours to repoint brickwork. Whilst I’m nowhere near as quick as you are you have shown that these things do take time to do properly. Thank you for showing that it’s worth taking your time.
Brilliant. l watched this wondering why my new pointing gun isn't working and you answered that. l am using a pre-mixed mortor but it wont come out of the gun. The only way to get any movement was to take the nozzle off completely but that was very messy, if slightly effective.
Pointing guns are alright, I've used one today. The mortar has to be very well mixed otherwise you just push the water out, plus you need the joints to be properly raked out to at least a depth of 30mm and more if you can. The pointing gun will really push the mortar well in as well, but when you are only repointing shallow joints that are barely 10mm deep like you are a tuck pointer, trowel and hawk like you are doing is the best. Its always a good idea to soak the wall this time of year as well.
We use tuckpointers on certain occasions.. but , we do tons and tons of pointing work ..we use grout bags . If one uses them properly , they are 10 times faster and much neater than using trowels and pointers. Give it a serious go mate , we literally do hundreds of make readies for realtors and repairs for homeowners every year .. we color match any mortar , sometimes replace bad bricks if needed . But we always , always use grout bags .
Good idea to hose the dust out once the raking is done, beats brushing it out. If it’s sunny or windy it stops the wall sucking the life out of the mortar.
This an arduous and tedious task as well as being hard work on your hands and arms. Patience and a careful approach is essential. Not a job to be rushed. Rogers’s advice on the 5 to 1 mix is crucial in getting the right consistency.
Nice job, I did mine some years back and used this exact method as it’s so fast. I’m just refreshing my mind as I have some more to do. Before it finally goes off I give it the once over with a soft brush to get rid of any crumbs and dust.
That's the best video I've seen for a long time! I've got a lot to do and a lot to learn. I've got 1920's and Victorian needing a LOT of work - a big project for the summer. Your tips about the mix is absolutely fantastic. I can now see where all old repairs (done by professionals apparently!) have failed and pinked the bricks out with them. All the original stuff is lime mortar and its been badly bodged over the years with really nasty grey super hard cement doing more damage. I've got a big job on but you have just inspired me to tackle it and I will enjoy doing it a bit at a time. Thank you so much!
If you require reliable guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime mortar on old walls. Its only 4 pages long and at about £18 is good value for money.
if its a lime mortar built property , it should be repointed using lime mortar. asking for trouble using cement, even a weak mix will cause trouble down the line .
Nice one Roger , love a bit of pointing, it’s like having a rest away from the mud and the trench blocks .love the “how not to drop a wall” at the end ..... you muppet 😱😂😂🧱🧱👍🏼
Perfect timing thanks Roger, I've been putting off repointing my 100yr old garden wall but I can't escape it any longer in lockdown! You said not to wet the wall down first to avoid cement marks but lots of other instructions online say get it wet first! What's the deal?
Hi Beth I am sorry if I rambled a bit here. I said not to wet the wall but I meant immediately prior to pointing. Somewhere else I said I would hose this down the day before but I am not sure now if it got edited out. So to clarify. Give the wall a good soaking the day before or in the morning, That will wash the dust out of the joints and stop it sucking all the moisture out of your new mix. I am going to redo this video because there is a lot of information about lime etc. that needs adding and I can make a more concise edit
Your right of course , so many people mix whatever they think is ok Like standard 5-1 ratio mix when actually it is all dependent on the brick type soft or hard! Personally I always put in a bit of lime too.
Hi Roger nice job,I use a 1 inch flat tool and load the hawk to the appropriate thickness of bed and smash in the perps 5 sq a time,Then clean them up a bit striking waste off top and bottom then lay in the bed but working from right to left so your continuous pushing into the previously layer in pointing,Iron in then gently brush but if it's on the front I won't use brush but double ding instead and clean any flakey bits with the tool
@@SkillBuilder yeah you used to be able to get 3 at toolstation for about a tenner,I used to do weatherstruck pointing for nottinghill housing trust about 10 years ago,We were doing so much of it for so long we used to strike it off almost as you go with that tool as well instead of using a level,Which sounds rough but it actually looked really good,I think the video's are great mate I wish everybody had as much enthusiasm in their craft as you and Robin.
Good vid, thanks. I’m repointing the whole side wall of my house and it’s coming along ok. The bricks are textured though with diagonal ridges which makes it quite difficult.
Hi ya, just some info I picked up on while you was filling the Beds, as your right handed start a Bed from the right side working left, it's easier to fill and leavds a nice finish without to much work. I used to do repointing on blocks of flats. Give it a try. Left handed start from the left and work to the right.
Thanks Richard, lots of people are telling me this and I will do it. I thought it was being obscured by my hand so for clarity I went nearest the lens and worked away. I have done it both ways in the past. Next video will be by the book with lime.
Just bought a hand board from pointmaster best thing I have bought for a while used to use a 6"hawk from faithfull, I was just going to say you don't need to knock that wall down then oooops good vid👍
Great vid and ideas. I’m in the process of repointing the whole side wall of my 3 bed semi detached property. There’s a garage on the side so can access from the roof. Considering 3 to 1 sand/cement mix with plasticiser as the wall is exposed to the elements but having seen this, I’m not sure.
Will you be doing a "how to" on replacing broken fence panels? And then the wind catches the fence panel and swings it into the neighbour's greenhouse, leading to a greenhouse repair video.
I came across your video as I’m looking to repoint under my bay window. Couldn’t believe it when you said your name at the beginning. I called in a couple of times to ask your advice when you used to be on LBC radio with Steve Allen 20 years ago. You must have been a teenager then!
I started on LBC first with Therese Birch when I was around 32 years old and did the show for 15 years. I loved doing it but LBC has changed into a purely political station now and there is no scope for that kind of show. Hence Skill Builder...
Great video, what type of lime and mix would you use for Victorian property, can you show a video of you doing that? There seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there, people make it seem really complex.
Great tip for the perps! The only good bit of pointing is driving away from a well finished job! So any tip that makes it easier and quicker is golden! The half round finish is known as bucket handle finish up north, from the days of steel buckets so I've been told. Any tips to make raking out easier? And did I really just see you point a wall that is about to be demolished? Or is lock down making me hallucinate? Love your dedication to a good job, no matter what it is 👍
Yeah , old steel fire buckets used to have handles that were like half a pipe , so were repurposed . Now you can buy the half round tools in differing widths
I've found plastering sand works well with a cement gun. Not too soft and has bit of stone. Also I find if you point too soon you get stains. There's no right or wrong way. Nice work bud
tuck pointing is when you point red brick arches usualy with a lime joint you will need a special trowel to do so if you are weather pointing use a 5 and 6 inch marshaltown american trowels ..Having done thousands of yards of weather pointing i always used soft building sand at 3 to 1 mix cement also i always used a small decoraters plastic hawk less combersome than the large hawk the rule can be made of a peace of plain architrave about 3 feet long .place thin upright strips of thin ply to the back to hold the rule of the wall allowing the snots to fall ....a french man can be made from a steel knife file the end to a point hold over a gas flame and bend up to form a small plough shape..make sure the rest of the knife is not sharp file the edge off so that it does not cut into the rule .Finally gently brush the pointing when dry with a fine brush...it takes a bit of practice ,but you can do it..lastly when i used to build say stock brick exstentions i always raked the joints and weather pointed the wall Today builders just dong the joint or finish with a bucket handle joint is thet progress doute it forget the video lastly i rebuild a large flank of a house in Fulham london using morter with a little bit ot cement mixed in stuff is the old name for morter..end of lesson
Can someone tell me how I make a lime mortar mix? What grade lime? What sand do I use and lastly what ratio? Thanks in advance for your help with this.
Is was always taught to point towards the mortar I've already put in so did example I start on the right hand side then point from left to right so your drawing and anything the new mortar in to the least bit your pointed in (the same applies to pointing left to right). Roger your doing it opposite not that I'm saying your in the wrong it just suprised me a little. Good video! 👍🙂
You are right I should have worked into the previous. I thought it was easier for the camera to see it but on reflection it would have made no difference.
@@SkillBuilder it got the job done, it just seemed strange seeing it find that way which was why I commented. Probably the best how to pointing video I've seen, it will hopefully inspire some people to try it themselves. It would give them something to do during this lockdown, if they can get a hold of the tools and or the materials. 👍🙂 Great channel btw
I much prefer the tuck pointer, fast and easy. Even a cheap one for a couple of quid works nicely. You can do perps with them too if you are not good at doing it with the trowel which I certainly am not lol. Just use the same method as for the horizontals.
Would say as long as you're using the right size jointer, use that to put the mortar in the bed joint straight off the hawk. Wet the brickwork down a bit first, mortar a bit dry so cuts down on staining, and let the soft brush work it's magic.
@@SkillBuilder that little bit of flex on the tuc jointer does feel more responsive but using the jointer with the right mix, skips out a step and gives the same result. Horses for courses.
Great video Roger. I’ve got a 100yr old stone garden wall here in Scotland that’s falling apart. What kind of mix would you use for that? The stones are maybe 30-40cm wide and so the gaps are pretty big. Thanks in advance
Hello, bigger the gap between the stones you can use sharp sand. We used stones from a fish tank, sometimes we have sieved stones that were too big. Motar we use is hydraulic lime. Called a strength of 5. So you ask for NHL 5.IF the stone wall is constant wet you use NHL 3,5 it's a stronger lime. Mix would normally be 3 Building sand. 1.5 sharpsand. 2 handfuls of Grit (fishtank gravel). Then 1.5 of Nhl 5 lime. If the pointing is wet still in the wall (No sun on it) it will take a while to go off. We use a plastic like shoe brush to get a finish on it after a three hours. Can take a week to go off. Sometimes we use the back of a chisel (flat edge basically) to give a racked out look. Use a soft brush dust pan brush. NO CEMENT IS USED AT ALL.. cover the work over at night, protect from the sun as well and the wind.
I've done a strong 3.1 mix of sand/cement for a 30cm, below ground, section of blockwork on a garden retaining wall. I will have 4 rows of salvaged victorian house bricks on top of this blockwork. These will surely require a different mix, correct? Any ideas? Ideally I'd like to be able to clean up the bricks easily if the wall fails further down the line. 3.1 just feels way too strong! I have some white cement and yellow sand I'd like to use up if possible.
Ah I was trying to figure out by myself on a test wall and got to the hawk and finger trowel (what they call it over here) as my approach for the horizontals. Verticals were a pain. All gaps horizontal and vertical, were different widths and depths, a crazy wall... Fingers... that was what was most effective for verticals the majority of the time!! I wanted the bent mental tool you showed for scraping - but couldn't get one anywhere. Bought a few different diameter pipes, cut down and ach, it for sure needs to be bent to be more effective... will try for the next half of the wall :) Your mix was definitely looking more wet than mine... its all drying nicely though... would maybe be easier with wetter, to do those verticals... now just to think whether I should really try to do it different and risk to much contrast between the halves of the wall! 5x3.5m wall being done!
What you want is a tuck pointer with a heel on it, not a square/welded join to the handle, this will help you tool it and you can even cut the fluff off the mortar. Connex are good for tuck pointers
Marshalltown Tools tools are made in Marshalltown IA, and Fayetteville AR. Fayetteville in fact has open factory positions currently listed. If there are any Tool and Die machinists in the area, take a look. Maybe they use Chinese steel (like almost everyone else), but the tools for the most part are made in the states.
Nice one you give me idear how to repoint walls thankyou i would have give this job to some one to repoint my old walls he were asking me 200 pounds to do this job but mate you show me how to repoint walls i have done it my self and saved 200 pounds mate only cost me 30 pounds for stuff to buy and did it my self i am very happy mate very easy job how to repoint walls thankyou very much to save my money allah bless you .
I bend my finger trowel. Helps when you polish up your pointing too say when you do a recess joint. Also Roger you should really go 20mm when raking out. Cheers
Enjoyed your video. I need to repoint a part of my house wall close to ground level. The house is 150 years old, in Merseyside. I have seen a tub of proprietary mortar mix in the ratio 6:1:1. Is this a suitable mix? Is one part lime enough? Is it ok to have 1 part cement? Cheers.
6 1.1 should be fine. Use hydrated lime from your merchant. It is fine for the job. Don't put in more hydrated lime than cement because it won't set. Hydraulic lime is a different proposition. You can use it but generallt a 6.1.1 mix is as good as a 3.5NHL lime.
soft brush west minster smudge as a young man my uncle give me a job during the holes from school hoidening bricks and the raking out and pointing weather struck six weeks i got good at it but seeing bricks in me sleep its hard work i am now a 40 yrs plus plumber still remember it lol.
I used to mix for a pointing gang in Germany some 40 years ago (can't believe I just wrote that - where did those years go..!). Over there the brickies on a new build didn't point the wall as they went along. A specialist pointing gang would come in after the brickwork was done and finish off the pointing later. We'd use a much drier mx than shown here - it was just damp, and use a straight trowel the same as shown in the video - not a UK style pointing trowel, which is really slow as Roger says - and a curved hawk - always home made. And man, those German pointers were REALLY fast. thinking back it was about 10 seconds for a linear metre. They'd finish off with a bent piece of 15mm copper pipe bent in the same shape as the pointing trowel (Roger is using a bit of wood here) and a soft brush as suggested. They'd always have a beer on the go too... No, really. Happy days.
If you are right handed Roger, fill your bed joints from right to left. That way you are always pushing back against what you have just placed so you have no voids. It will be a lot faster. Cheers mate
Thanks and you are right.
Hope you and your family are all well mate in this crazy time. Cheers 👍
Great tip thanks
That's correct, the right way for a right handed must be from right to left
A subject close to my heart! Glad you started this video by talking about the importance of matching the mix strength with existing wall. This is so very important. Can't remember if mentioned this already, but we repointed most of our lower ground floor of our house (about 60 sq m of wall) with a lime mortar last year. (NHL3.5) Keep explaining to people the reason we bothered using lime. The idea is that the mortar must be sacrificial to the brick, not the other way around. The walls are 185 years old. Shove cement mortar in them, and they will last another 5 years, continue with lime and they are good for another 150. Once you see a lime mortar wall repointed in cement mortar, you can't unsee it. Then you see it everywhere you go! Everywhere you see it, the faces of bricks have crumbled out and come off. No other reason. Such a shame. The whole process of raking out and repointing took three of us a good week. It was very painful on the hands (not like what you showed here, because the brick was very different and we packed the mortar in very hard). Hundreds of bags of dust came out when we raked out. I have some great before/after pics. The stuff was black and crumbly before we repointed, it fell out when you touched it. We raked back 20mm, partly because stuff was falling out already to that depth before we even raked out. In fact entire bricks were loose and dodgy so we needed to pull some out here and there and re-snap them the correct size to get them back in. Lot of hard work. Now it's amazing, firm, no dust comes off when you brush the bricks, lovely. As we went overseas straight afterwards we asked Anna's mum to come around and water the walls twice a day, which was pretty amusing for all. Walls look gorgeous now, as well - so will be keeping some of them exposed. However we accidentally bought too much NHL3.5, so if you know anyone who needs about 9 bags of the stuff (not cheap) then let me know - I'd rather it go to a good home than go off. We kept it off the floor in a reasonable warm and very well ventilated place
Thanks Mat. I might buy that mortar from you and do a video. We have a listed building to do so it would be good. What is the colour.
Skill Builder end result is quite white. I’ll send you a pic. It’s Secil.
@@Jim_Newlands sorry but cement colouring is not suitable for lime...
Can you share the before and after pictures?
@@MatSmithLondon, I really like your approach to the repointing.
Three questions:
Besides the NHL, did you add anything else to the mix (like hydrated lime)?
What mixing ratio did you use?
Did you consider using a gun for the job?
I pretty much renovated my whole house thanks to this man!
Take some of the credit too, you exerted the effort required, even if Roger showed you how.... well done!!!
As a novice - and non builder - I first repointed an Edwardian town house. Really good bricklaying on the front. Getting shabbier round the back and the bits that only the neighbours saw was not good at all. Luckily I had an excellent old guy "pointing" me in the right direction. Good lad, our Den.
Moved to a Georgian/Victorian hunting lodge with 33 rooms, 29 chimneys, 50 foot tower and on and on. HugeVictorian bricks, tiny Georgian ones, really tight gage lines and a dragon of a listed building enforcer. Fortunately the County's monuments guy was a star and again pointed us in the right direction. We had to use all lime mortar, I found plastering sand worked well at matching the existing finish. Took f..n years.
Keep up the good work - and stay safe everyone.
Hi Roger, another good video, one of the most difficult jobs you ever have to undertake. I struggled with it for years tried all sorts of tricks, one job in Cambridge I got it all raked out and washed off, and because I wanted to use a wet lime mortar (7 soft sand 1 lime 1torment(OPC)) mix which would stain the bricks I decided to use an oil based barrier on the bricks, I use a bottle of Mazola from a local shop!, it worked an absolute treat, got the job done in no time and washed of the snots as soon as it had dried a bit. I was delighted and when back a few months later to admire it, to my everlasting shame and embarrassment all the brickwork had gone almost black as the oil degraded!, I never tried that again!.
One of the things II was told was that any attempt to wash fresh pointing with water would just make matters worse but if the brickwork and the muck are too dry it cracks and dries before it can chemically cure, if you are lucky you can brush off the worst a half-hour after you put it in.
When I did the front of the house that I'm living in now I decided to wash the wall with the garden hose and apply dryish mortar (old yellow brick with lime mortar) to very wet bricks, again went in a treat, this time I chose to just leave it to dry completely and brush it off the next day - wrong again - I did the job now 15 years ago and the smears of muck are still showing all over the edges!, it is going to stay there for sure!.
The next bit I tried was just a little patch, this time as before but I decided to try another tack, this time I cut a very deep chase , wet it thoroughly, pointed it up, struck it off with the trowel, put a bit of a skin on it, left it for twenty minutes then washed over it all with gallons of clean water and a soft sponge - at last - I cracked it!, apart from the mess on the ground!, absolutely perfect, if only I'd known that before. The last big pointing job a few years ago came in at about sixty pounds a square metre which I think is not too bad for a job that should last for as long as the house!. Cheers, Richard.
Great information. I will try that sponge on the next one
Can't beat an old fella with lots of experience. Best video i have seen on this.
We point a lot of houses mainly brick for the council we use a pointing gun 2 lads do about 25sq metre a day 1 lad putting it in gun and 1 lad using a jointing iron . We use 1 lime 3 building sand 1 silver abit of motor plasticiser and abit of dye if needed so new pointing doesn’t look out of place
In America, we grind out as much old mortar as possible before applying the new mortar because it adds more surface area for the new mortar(and more of it) to adhere to and makes it less likely that water will be able to get in between your new mortar and the old mortar and frost heaving your new stuff clean off the chimney/wall. All too often you come to do roof flashing work on a chimney(that the customer claims was "recently repointed") and there's little 1/8" thick rectangular chunks of mortar laying on the roof and hanging out of the mortar beds, and usually(not all the time) that's because they just smeared a paper thin layer on top of the old stuff(that stuck to nothing) and called it a day.
If you're not going to be doing any grinding, it's good to at least pressure wash what you're planning on repointing first to remove anything from the surface of the wall/chimney that that might interfere with adhesion of the new mortar to the old mortar whether it be dirt, dust, oil, plant material, or what have you, and also to dislodge any loose pieces of mortar or brick, because obviously you don't want to put your new stuff up against something that's fixin' to fall out. If possible, it's also good to figure out if the bricks you plan to repoint are high suction(capillary suction) bricks, because that will affect how wet your mortar mix will need to be or if you have to wet the brick first before applying the new mortar. Some bricks are thirsty and will drink the water right out of your mortar before it's done doing its thing, and that's no good. The science: canadamasonrydesigncentre.com/download/9th_symposium/MORJTS06.pdf
I am going to use this time to Sharpen my chisels, clean the van out and reorganize my power tools and clean them , keep safe everyone regards from Ireland Darren
This is a timely video for me i need to do this to my 1926 laundry/outhouse turned workshops. Thanks for the tip.
I echo all the other comments - what a great video! Clear,concise and no nonsense, why aren't they all like you? Many thanks for sharing your skills and enthusiasms, much appreciated...
20 minutes watching you putting some sand and cement back in a wall and chirp away about this and that... Loved every minute! And what a real world moment at the end - hours of care and attention followed by one slight mishap - story of my life and no doubt many others lol! Great video once again Roger . Nice one.
Brilliant advice as always Rodger. A plumber myself I love pointing around pipes, flues etc. Building in missing brick and making good walls. Very satisfying job I find. Keep up the good work!
It isn't brilliant advice, it's the worst thing you can do to an old house. The pointing should be sacrificial, but if you use cement pointing then the brick or stone disappears. You must have seen this on old walls.
@@possel4747 yawn go back In your cave troll
Everyone has their methods, but i normally use a 4:1 mix but knock it up fairly dry and water untill it can keep its shape that way you don’t smear on the brick work, I use a modified tuck pointer as well, spray the brickwork before so the mix doesn’t dry before curing. This method works well for all types of pointing and jointing finishes including bastard tuck pointing with putty.
Spot on , you can't compress water . This pointing will dry brilliant white and turn to dust in a week . Everything about it was wrong , This will now be deleted .
Given that there are so many types of masonry walls, getting the pointing right is not quite so simple as it might first appear. Generally speaking, joints should be raked out to at least twice their width, mortar pointing is a sacrificial material and should be weaker and more porous than the bricks, and the finished profile should ideally match the original design. Mortar must be compatible with the original materials and this is critical in the case of solid walls built using lime mortar as they need to dry out by evaporation. If you require reliable guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity. As a general rule, impermeable finishes should not be applied to external walls as this inhibits evapourative during and tends to trap moisture.
Still a pleasure watching someone take so much pride in every task. Used to enjoy your articles in builder mags years ago
I love this, I wish women were taught these skills when younger too. Gonna try this next year.
Brilliant video . Just a little tip, its a little easier if right handed, to start on right and pull the mortar into what you have already squeezed in.
Yeah he is working backwards . Also curl the mortar into your slicker for the head joints. Start opposite and kinda flick it into the slicker.
Thank you so much you saved me hundreds of pounds, never did any pointed did the front of my house and I'm so proud that I did it, a big thank you
I've just re watched this and realised that you work left to right just the same as I do,
I've been advised so many times to work from right to left as to pack the mortar more easily,
But I'm good and fast at pointing (probably because I hate doing it so want to get it over with without any call back)
Your a wealth of experience and knowledge, thanks.
I also noticed he should have been working towards the filled pointing bed. Great video though, learnt from it.
after pointing for nearly 20 yrs ive tried every type, trick, tip, method going and i can safely say ive seen people do cracking work using every type. its down to the skill of the tradesman doing the work mostly!
I’ve got an old walled garden which needs pointing, its £30 per square metre, which I can’t afford, but I’ve decided to try it myself, thanks for a very clear demonstration and helping me believe I can do it! 👍
Hi Roger, your pulling out every trick in the book to keep the videos coming, thank you its much appreciated! Hopefully your subscribers go through the roof! suppose you can turn a negative into a postive! Stay safe mate your a ledgend
It isn't brilliant advice, it's the worst thing you can do to an old house. The pointing should be sacrificial, but if you use cement pointing then the brick or stone disappears. You must have seen this on old walls.
@@possel4747 yawn go back In your cave troll
Best repointing vid I've seen by far!
good you pointed out about not using a strong mix otherwise it can take the face of the bricks off as well as all the other issues you mentioned. The odd occasion I've repointed, and if large enough area I'll use a manual 'caulking style' pointing gun, but to stop bung-ups you need to sieve the sand, sounds a faff but it's still quicker and produces a nice result. Like someone already said, after the soaking I'll use a hand spray to 'top-up' the wall to help stop that suction. Hanging damp sacking over helps keep the sun and wind off to let it go off and not just dry out. My preference is 1x portland, 1x lime, 4x sand, that way you can get the fat up without bother to give a nice waterproof finish. Keep the videos coming!! Best wishes.
Believe it or not I used to be plumber years ago then went into bench joinery and manufacturing.
I've done all my own pointing. I do it the same way you showed however thanks for the tip with a scraper for the perp's.
I have my garage gable to do this summer. Great tip👍
As a DIY’er I thought it was taking me hours to repoint brickwork. Whilst I’m nowhere near as quick as you are you have shown that these things do take time to do properly. Thank you for showing that it’s worth taking your time.
Backhanded compliment
Brilliant. l watched this wondering why my new pointing gun isn't working and you answered that. l am using a pre-mixed mortor but it wont come out of the gun. The only way to get any movement was to take the nozzle off completely but that was very messy, if slightly effective.
The great Roger Bisby. Class and character.
Pointing guns are alright, I've used one today. The mortar has to be very well mixed otherwise you just push the water out, plus you need the joints to be properly raked out to at least a depth of 30mm and more if you can. The pointing gun will really push the mortar well in as well, but when you are only repointing shallow joints that are barely 10mm deep like you are a tuck pointer, trowel and hawk like you are doing is the best. Its always a good idea to soak the wall this time of year as well.
Thanks for the video, very informative and helpful. Great attitude and humility considering the wealth of knowledge you are sharing.
This guy is such an excellent teacher
We use tuckpointers on certain occasions.. but , we do tons and tons of pointing work ..we use grout bags . If one uses them properly , they are 10 times faster and much neater than using trowels and pointers.
Give it a serious go mate , we literally do hundreds of make readies for realtors and repairs for homeowners every year .. we color match any mortar , sometimes replace bad bricks if needed . But we always , always use grout bags .
Good idea to hose the dust out once the raking is done, beats brushing it out. If it’s sunny or windy it stops the wall sucking the life out of the mortar.
Thanks for that as I’m just about to re-point my window bay, has given me the confidence, being a amateur 👍
This an arduous and tedious task as well as being hard work on your hands and arms. Patience and a careful approach is essential. Not a job to be rushed. Rogers’s advice on the 5 to 1 mix is crucial in getting the right consistency.
This is good stuff. The algorithm got it right this time.
Used this excellent video to redo my pointing. Thanks!
"It takes no skill" I have found the right channel!
Nice job, I did mine some years back and used this exact method as it’s so fast. I’m just refreshing my mind as I have some more to do. Before it finally goes off I give it the once over with a soft brush to get rid of any crumbs and dust.
Great tip!
That's the best video I've seen for a long time! I've got a lot to do and a lot to learn. I've got 1920's and Victorian needing a LOT of work - a big project for the summer. Your tips about the mix is absolutely fantastic. I can now see where all old repairs (done by professionals apparently!) have failed and pinked the bricks out with them. All the original stuff is lime mortar and its been badly bodged over the years with really nasty grey super hard cement doing more damage. I've got a big job on but you have just inspired me to tackle it and I will enjoy doing it a bit at a time. Thank you so much!
If you require reliable guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime mortar on old walls. Its only 4 pages long and at about £18 is good value for money.
if its a lime mortar built property , it should be repointed using lime mortar. asking for trouble using cement, even a weak mix will cause trouble down the line .
To rebuild the top of a stone chimney stack, what mortar mix would you use? The. To repoint remainder? Never really used lime. NHL lime? Thanks
@@borntohula nhl 5
Just watched this again - it really is an excellent video. Fantastic for the DIYer.
I have my dad's pointing trowel. Completely rounded, short, worn for a right hander. Its one of my favourite possessions.
Nice one Roger , love a bit of pointing, it’s like having a rest away from the mud and the trench blocks .love the “how not to drop a wall” at the end ..... you muppet 😱😂😂🧱🧱👍🏼
Yes no clever with the demolition but I had an idea it would make a good video.
Skill Builder can’t beat a good blooper 😂😂👌🏼🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild 😂😂
Perfect timing thanks Roger, I've been putting off repointing my 100yr old garden wall but I can't escape it any longer in lockdown! You said not to wet the wall down first to avoid cement marks but lots of other instructions online say get it wet first! What's the deal?
Hi Beth
I am sorry if I rambled a bit here. I said not to wet the wall but I meant immediately prior to pointing. Somewhere else I said
I would hose this down the day before but I am not sure now if it got edited out. So to clarify. Give the wall a good soaking the day before or in the morning, That will wash the dust out of the joints and stop it sucking all the moisture out of your new mix.
I am going to redo this video because there is a lot of information about lime etc. that needs adding and I can make a more concise edit
@@SkillBuilder- I hope you amend it to take account of needing to use lime mortar on an old lime wall, NOT cement!
4" Marshalltown pointing trowel & tuck pointer tamping your mortar to 12mm on a hawk or trowel. Prepping wall is just as important.
Your right of course , so many people mix whatever they think is ok Like standard 5-1 ratio mix when actually it is all dependent on the brick type soft or hard!
Personally I always put in a bit of lime too.
I like lime and we will redo this video with lime when the breakout happens
Great job I'm surprised you've not mentioned the half round jointer . Most common finish. That also pushes/compresses thr mortar
Hi Roger nice job,I use a 1 inch flat tool and load the hawk to the appropriate thickness of bed and smash in the perps 5 sq a time,Then clean them up a bit striking waste off top and bottom then lay in the bed but working from right to left so your continuous pushing into the previously layer in pointing,Iron in then gently brush but if it's on the front I won't use brush but double ding instead and clean any flakey bits with the tool
Good advice. I will use all these tips in the next video and see how it goes. The 1" flat tool, is that a margin trowel?
@@SkillBuilder yeah you used to be able to get 3 at toolstation for about a tenner,I used to do weatherstruck pointing for nottinghill housing trust about 10 years ago,We were doing so much of it for so long we used to strike it off almost as you go with that tool as well instead of using a level,Which sounds rough but it actually looked really good,I think the video's are great mate I wish everybody had as much enthusiasm in their craft as you and Robin.
Good vid, thanks.
I’m repointing the whole side wall of my house and it’s coming along ok. The bricks are textured though with diagonal ridges which makes it quite difficult.
The best advice yet......loved all your tidbits of info!
Roger, thank you for this. Excellent instruction and great tips to make the job easier. Glad you didn't fall off the Savoy!
My home was pointed by my grandfather in the 1950s who was a Bricky/pointer and my joints look identical to yours Thanks for sharing
Hi ya, just some info I picked up on while you was filling the Beds, as your right handed start a Bed from the right side working left, it's easier to fill and leavds a nice finish without to much work. I used to do repointing on blocks of flats. Give it a try. Left handed start from the left and work to the right.
Thanks Richard, lots of people are telling me this and I will do it. I thought it was being obscured by my hand so for clarity I went nearest the lens and worked away. I have done it both ways in the past. Next video will be by the book with lime.
Your welcome my friend
Cheers Roger, pointing guns are frustrating tools to use, a Marshalltown Tuck Pointer is just what I needed 👍
"There I was on the Savoy, dangling about!!" Great work Roger
Just bought a hand board from pointmaster best thing I have bought for a while used to use a 6"hawk from faithfull, I was just going to say you don't need to knock that wall down then oooops good vid👍
I have one of those knocking about. Again it was a fiddle to fill and use
@@SkillBuilder to be truthfull it's practice 😁 thanks for vid stay safe😷
Love the ending, nice segway to the next video, "how to repair a garden fence" 😂
Great vid and ideas. I’m in the process of repointing the whole side wall of my 3 bed semi detached property. There’s a garage on the side so can access from the roof.
Considering 3 to 1 sand/cement mix with plasticiser as the wall is exposed to the elements but having seen this, I’m not sure.
Will you be doing a "how to" on replacing broken fence panels?
And then the wind catches the fence panel and swings it into the neighbour's greenhouse, leading to a greenhouse repair video.
Yes we could get a whole series out of it
I came across your video as I’m looking to repoint under my bay window.
Couldn’t believe it when you said your name at the beginning.
I called in a couple of times to ask your advice when you used to be on LBC radio with Steve Allen 20 years ago.
You must have been a teenager then!
I started on LBC first with Therese Birch when I was around 32 years old and did the show for 15 years. I loved doing it but LBC has changed into a purely political station now and there is no scope for that kind of show. Hence Skill Builder...
Great instruction I’ve never been good at this. Now I understand Thank You Sir from Corpus Christi Texas USA
Should you grind out the old mortar to enable the new to get a better purchase?
Thanks for the video, and really nice music!
Have you covered spalling bricks in a previous video? Especially below DPC..
Sorry the answer is no but we will
Excellent! Thanks Rodger-YOU THE MAN!!!
I have got to re-point my inglenook fire place. Lime mortar of course. Me thinks a Marshaltown purchase could be on the horizon
Great video, what type of lime and mix would you use for Victorian property, can you show a video of you doing that? There seems to be a lot of conflicting information out there, people make it seem really complex.
That felt very much like learning to paint with Bob Foss. Loved it
You can learn more on this channel.
Well done Roger for keeping the videos coming 👍👍
Great tip for the perps! The only good bit of pointing is driving away from a well finished job! So any tip that makes it easier and quicker is golden!
The half round finish is known as bucket handle finish up north, from the days of steel buckets so I've been told. Any tips to make raking out easier?
And did I really just see you point a wall that is about to be demolished? Or is lock down making me hallucinate?
Love your dedication to a good job, no matter what it is 👍
Yeah , old steel fire buckets used to have handles that were like half a pipe , so were repurposed . Now you can buy the half round tools in differing widths
Superb! I need the back of a terraced house done top to bottom.
I've found plastering sand works well with a cement gun. Not too soft and has bit of stone. Also I find if you point too soon you get stains. There's no right or wrong way. Nice work bud
What about yellow or white mortar? How do you mix those up?
tuck pointing is when you point red brick arches usualy with a lime joint you will need a special trowel to do so if you are weather pointing use a 5 and 6 inch marshaltown american trowels ..Having done thousands of yards of weather pointing i always used soft building sand at 3 to 1 mix cement also i always used a small decoraters plastic hawk less combersome than the large hawk the rule can be made of a peace of plain architrave about 3 feet long .place thin upright strips of thin ply to the back to hold the rule of the wall allowing the snots to fall ....a french man can be made from a steel knife file the end to a point hold over a gas flame and bend up to form a small plough shape..make sure the rest of the knife is not sharp file the edge off so that it does not cut into the rule .Finally gently brush the pointing when dry with a fine brush...it takes a bit of practice ,but you can do it..lastly when i used to build say stock brick exstentions i always raked the joints and weather pointed the wall Today builders just dong the joint or finish with a bucket handle joint is thet progress doute it forget the video lastly i rebuild a large flank of a house in Fulham london using morter with a little bit ot cement mixed in stuff is the old name for morter..end of lesson
Can someone tell me how I make a lime mortar mix? What grade lime? What sand do I use and lastly what ratio? Thanks in advance for your help with this.
Is was always taught to point towards the mortar I've already put in so did example I start on the right hand side then point from left to right so your drawing and anything the new mortar in to the least bit your pointed in (the same applies to pointing left to right). Roger your doing it opposite not that I'm saying your in the wrong it just suprised me a little. Good video! 👍🙂
You are right I should have worked into the previous. I thought it was easier for the camera to see it but on reflection it would have made no difference.
@@SkillBuilder it got the job done, it just seemed strange seeing it find that way which was why I commented. Probably the best how to pointing video I've seen, it will hopefully inspire some people to try it themselves. It would give them something to do during this lockdown, if they can get a hold of the tools and or the materials. 👍🙂 Great channel btw
Brilliant as ever!
I much prefer the tuck pointer, fast and easy. Even a cheap one for a couple of quid works nicely. You can do perps with them too if you are not good at doing it with the trowel which I certainly am not lol. Just use the same method as for the horizontals.
have got some to do first timer so thanks for this it is appreciated
Would say as long as you're using the right size jointer, use that to put the mortar in the bed joint straight off the hawk.
Wet the brickwork down a bit first, mortar a bit dry so cuts down on staining, and let the soft brush work it's magic.
All good tips but I still hate the jointer. It has no feel
@@SkillBuilder that little bit of flex on the tuc jointer does feel more responsive but using the jointer with the right mix, skips out a step and gives the same result.
Horses for courses.
That was a fair explanation to all the non bricklayers on the basics of pointing, Fancy pushing the wall into the fence 🙈
Another fantastic video...yet again you've provided clear and helpful advice! Will definitely be putting these tips into practice. Thanks!
I'm useless with a pointing trowel, much prefer a tuck pointer and it gets crammed in there much better.
Hi, my house was built in the 1930s. I’m looking to get the house repointed, would I use lime?
Great video Roger. I’ve got a 100yr old stone garden wall here in Scotland that’s falling apart. What kind of mix would you use for that? The stones are maybe 30-40cm wide and so the gaps are pretty big. Thanks in advance
Hello, bigger the gap between the stones you can use sharp sand. We used stones from a fish tank, sometimes we have sieved stones that were too big. Motar we use is hydraulic lime. Called a strength of 5. So you ask for NHL 5.IF the stone wall is constant wet you use NHL 3,5 it's a stronger lime. Mix would normally be 3 Building sand. 1.5 sharpsand. 2 handfuls of Grit (fishtank gravel). Then 1.5 of Nhl 5 lime. If the pointing is wet still in the wall (No sun on it) it will take a while to go off. We use a plastic like shoe brush to get a finish on it after a three hours. Can take a week to go off. Sometimes we use the back of a chisel (flat edge basically) to give a racked out look. Use a soft brush dust pan brush. NO CEMENT IS USED AT ALL.. cover the work over at night, protect from the sun as well and the wind.
I've done a strong 3.1 mix of sand/cement for a 30cm, below ground, section of blockwork on a garden retaining wall. I will have 4 rows of salvaged victorian house bricks on top of this blockwork. These will surely require a different mix, correct? Any ideas? Ideally I'd like to be able to clean up the bricks easily if the wall fails further down the line. 3.1 just feels way too strong! I have some white cement and yellow sand I'd like to use up if possible.
Great video 👏👏👏
When I'm mixing mortar for re-pointing a brick wall, 4 to 1 mix, I'm using SBR+. Can I use it neat or is their a ratio? Cheers.
Ah I was trying to figure out by myself on a test wall and got to the hawk and finger trowel (what they call it over here) as my approach for the horizontals. Verticals were a pain. All gaps horizontal and vertical, were different widths and depths, a crazy wall... Fingers... that was what was most effective for verticals the majority of the time!!
I wanted the bent mental tool you showed for scraping - but couldn't get one anywhere. Bought a few different diameter pipes, cut down and ach, it for sure needs to be bent to be more effective... will try for the next half of the wall :) Your mix was definitely looking more wet than mine... its all drying nicely though... would maybe be easier with wetter, to do those verticals... now just to think whether I should really try to do it different and risk to much contrast between the halves of the wall! 5x3.5m wall being done!
What you want is a tuck pointer with a heel on it, not a square/welded join to the handle, this will help you tool it and you can even cut the fluff off the mortar. Connex are good for tuck pointers
Thanks for the tip. I will look them up
Marshalltown Tools tools are made in Marshalltown IA, and Fayetteville AR. Fayetteville in fact has open factory positions currently listed. If there are any Tool and Die machinists in the area, take a look. Maybe they use Chinese steel (like almost everyone else), but the tools for the most part are made in the states.
Really useful to see, but I wonder would you use lime mortar if that's what was already there? Thanks
Yes,sand and cement traps moisture
Lime mortar breathes and moisture evaporates
Nice one you give me idear how to repoint walls thankyou i would have give this job to some one to repoint my old walls he were asking me 200 pounds to do this job but mate you show me how to repoint walls i have done it my self and saved 200 pounds mate only cost me 30 pounds for stuff to buy and did it my self i am very happy mate very easy job how to repoint walls thankyou very much to save my money allah bless you .
Try cutting down a tuck pointer for your perps..👍
That is a great idea. It will hurt but I will do it.
@@SkillBuilder That's when you buy a cheap one and cut it down.
I bend my finger trowel. Helps when you polish up your pointing too say when you do a recess joint. Also Roger you should really go 20mm when raking out. Cheers
Enjoyed your video. I need to repoint a part of my house wall close to ground level. The house is 150 years old, in Merseyside. I have seen a tub of proprietary mortar mix in the ratio 6:1:1. Is this a suitable mix? Is one part lime enough? Is it ok to have 1 part cement? Cheers.
Shouldn’t mix like with cement. Plently of company’s out there that will sell your a premix lime where you just add water
6 1.1 should be fine. Use hydrated lime from your merchant. It is fine for the job. Don't put in more hydrated lime than cement because it won't set. Hydraulic lime is a different proposition. You can use it but generallt a 6.1.1 mix is as good as a 3.5NHL lime.
soft brush west minster smudge as a young man my uncle give me a job during the holes from school hoidening bricks and the raking out and pointing weather struck six weeks i got good at it but seeing bricks in me sleep its hard work i am now a 40 yrs plus plumber still remember it lol.
Great work matey , love your sense of humour too , Thank you .