NHL lime mortar is good as it lets the rain, on the brickwork evaporate through the pointing, as well, which in turn stops the bricks " spalling " due to frost, and pointing should be sacrificial, not the brickwork, because it's easier to replace the pointing, rather than the brickwork, maybe once every 50 years or so. you are doing every body a good turn.
Iam a bricklayer and the videos you do are very helpful and informative..cement pointing NHL lime and hot lime all have there places for different jobs ..your Always going get abuse of key board warriors because they don't like you giving tips away ..very good video pal very 👍
I'm repointing similar bricks. Some spalled or cracked replaced. Had to stain the new bricks to blend in. Just keeping an eye on temperature Glenn. Using Lime Base pre-mixed and nearly done a ton bag. Pump spray I've found great for keeping the mortar damp. Great video 👍
The house I'm on now has just over a tonne and a half I mix my own I don't use premixed I couldn't replace 50% as it's single skin in places 6 degrees and rising I don't use a really wet mix so I just cover over for a week Most people think the worst time to point is the winter imo it's not the summer is as the mix dries out quicker and you use more water keeping it damp
Lots of good tips here from someone who clearly understands what they're doing and looking to do a quality job. Compare this with videos repointing around the drain pipes, no PPE, and no consideration for a nice clean face finish. Thank you
Sad seeing the bricks get slight damage from the pick, wish there was an easier way. Thanks for showing us though. I have seen people use angle grinder or drill to get out the main portion of mortar, both look very difficult not to damage bricks really. Looks even harder when it's all over the face too. Thanks for your tuition. I did a bit of emergency amature bodge job filling of missing bits of pointing on about 6 bricks below my damp course 😂 but the rest of my wall was good so it's nice to know how to rake out and repoint properly in the future. Your tips very helpful.
Excellent video. Just what I need for my Victorian terraced house. Some clever good for nothing has decided to patch areas up with cement so I’ve got some rectifying to do.
@@markslack6593 only if you use sand that's grey in colour Use brown sharp grit sand Put some of your sharp sand into a bucket just a hand full and over wet it if your sand makes the water a dirty grey colour or if the sand is mainly grey Don't use it I've done a video on different sands have a watch of that one see if your sands similar
Great video mate, thanks. just did a cavity reclaimed brick wall with NHL 3.5 and leaving it overnight to use my churn brush, hope it turns out as nice as yours.
Thanks mate I use a stick to push it back first then a churn brush Good luck take your time do a small area first Try not to over work it with the churn brush
Hi mate just wondering what your views are on using NHL the day after its been mixed if covered with water in a bucket over night and knocked back up in the mixer ? cheers
Hi depending on what NHL you are using You can use it the next day If you read the data sheet it says use within 4 or 5 hrs as when you add water that's when the chemical reaction starts So yes you can use it the next day If there's not much I do a fresh mix and add it back into the mix so it's knocking up again Lime is made to be reused I even use the water again that I've cleaned the mixer and buckets with You will find Aggregate sits at the bottom Lime sits on top in a slurry then clean water sits on top Hope that helps
Hi thanks for the information. It's been a bit of a running grey area especially with some clients who are against the Idea. We cover with water to slow the chemical reaction? And often add a mini mix to it the next day after draining off the water. We use 5 and 3.5 namely singleton birch. I find the mix a much better consistency than freshly made mortar
@@leecarbines6767 hi yes it allowed to get fatty they call it works more like a putty You can ask 10 lime experts and get 10 different ways of doing it if it's what you prefer stick to it As long as it doesn't shrink or crack it's fine I always use mine on the dryer side and can easily use a full mix in the day so I never usually have any left over lol
Wish I watched your videos before i started pointing my wall 😪. I have an old wall in my garden which probably dates back to early 1800s and its got lime which is crumbling away. I put on a 40mm angle grinder raking attachment and took out all the loose lime and removed and replaced a load of blown out bricks which were literally obliterated. I then stated repointed the wall with a portland based cement with building sand. I have repointed 30% of the wall but havent done the rest as its such a big wall. Would you still advise using an NHL 3.5 or can I get away with the portland based cement mix with building sand?
@garywilliams2226 if it was built with lime I always put lime back Old bricks can't take the pressure of cement and water can't escape through cement What mix ratio did you do with cement
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd i did a 4 to 1 mix. To be honest, it looks as if there have been multiple repairs on the brick wall and it looks as if someone has previously applied a portland cement and sand mix to the bottom of the wall the mortar is very hard but the top and mid section of the wall it looks quite bad but as mentioned ive removed the blown out bricks and rebuilt parts of the wall in portland cement with building sand.
I should have mentioned its a double brick wall and the neighbours side doesnt look too bad but he too has lime mortar the very soft mortar which crumbles away.
Hi there mate really like your videos and what you’re doing. I’m doing a little job on my house. It’s a Victorian house so I want to use a 3.5 nhl lime. What sand would you recommend and is the 4:1 with no cement? Sorry for the silly question, it’s just I’m a beginner. Do I also have to use placitser too?
Hi nhl 3.5 you have good and bad I use lafarge or Saint astier I mix at a 1:3 I've done a video on how to mix nhl If you wattsapp me some pictures what your doing I can give you better advice if needed
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Hi mate is there any chance I can WhatsApp you to recommend what mortar to point two buildings with. My building and my parents. Thanks
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd hi mate how can I send you these photos? Also another question if this is OK? What would I expect to pay if I decided to get someone in to do it. Raking out and pointing on a sqm basis just so I don't get ripped off. I'm a electrician by trade and useful with tools but sometimes it's easier to go to work and then pay someone but don't want to get ripped off.( however I do like a challenge and would keep me busy on the weekends when I'm not busy as hate watching TV 👍) Thanks for your time
The cement has been removed from the joints a little still remains on the face of the brick It's lime built so I'm pointing lime back on top of lime I've done a couple of videos on this property you see on them that I'm removing cement pointing because it's destroying the bricks and locking moisture in the walls
@ianwhitehead3086 yes lime was present I used a nhl 2 and 3.5 because of the high wind heavy rain area Hot lime won't last There's a large wood store in one of the videos that actually blew over and 100 trees in a 2 mile area blew over one was as wide as my van
I have a problem where the stone toppers of a wall and top few courses of brick were pulled off and reinstalled using cement mortar. Will the cement destroy the brick? Do I need to completely remove and reinstall using lime mortar?
@Stashman94 it depends how old the bricks are and how strong a cement mix they used If you wattsapp me some pictures or email I'll give you a better idea if I can see it
Hi Hessian is damp or wet in hot months it stops the wind heat sun drying the lime out to quick In winter it stops frost from attacking the lime it clings to the hessian In winter I will use hessian bubble wrap and a tarpaulin sheet to protect it
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltdit would be nice to see you hanging the hessian and how you fixed it to stay in place. I'll have to check out your other videos.
Thanks for the informative demonstration. I am needing to address similar on my house but as I am quite close to you (Bunbury), you will likely receive a call from me when I next get home. Many thanks.
Hi Glenn. I see you pointed a scrape back and used your churn brush after around 10 minutes. Can you do that or is it best to fo that the day after. Thanks
@davidbridgewater4670 hi no leave it longer these bricks sucked the moisture in so dried the lime quicker After you point, leave it till it's finger print hard If you churn, brush it off too soon it will stick to the churn Depends on the air temperature Depends on how wet your mix is Depends on how absorbent the bricks are Hope that helps
Thank you for another great video. Quick question if I may? How much would I charge for this type of pointing? I currently charge £70 per metre to rake out and repoint with cement in bucket handle but trying to expand into lime pointing. Thank you Liam
@Liam-h3v £ 70 for cement and bucket handle is a good price It depends on the lime you are using Send me some pictures of your work on wattsapp and the area you cover
Is Cement mortar alright for a 1930's house? One wall of my house has just been repointed with 4 parts sand : 1 part Cement. As a complete novice home owner I'm now wondering how do I tell if its ok to point the rest of the house also with 4:1 sand / cement, or if it needs lime based mortar.
@vc6769 I'd never recommend a 4:1 on any building that's a mix for laying bricks 1 hydrated lime 1 cement 5 sand is the strongest I'd go with cement A house that age, depending on your area, most probably was built in lime On an old part of the house, put some white vinegar on the pointing if it starts to fizz its lime So you should use lime Lime will let moisture out of the pointing Where cement doesn't
Very informative, thank you. Does that brush have a specific name or will any reasonabley stuff brush do to wack in the mortar? Thanks. I need to do this to a wall made from rock or sandstone. The mortar is crumbling to the touch.
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thanks for your quick reply. I'll try to find something similar. I'm in Germany but have similar places to screw fix. Theres also lots of infill between timbersbto rebuild with the original rocks. The old mortar or whatever was used is like mud or sand and just falls away. Ive never seen anything like it. I know some folk replace the rock infill with blocks and render over them but I'd like to keep it as original as possible.
@@paulklasmann1218 earth mortar it will probably be I'm on wattsapp and email if you want any advice or if you want to send some pictures Just Google gmt pointing specialists ltd I'd do a before and after and put it on my RUclips channel no pressure like lol
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you very much, that's very kind of you. Sure, I'll take some pictures send them to you in a few days. I'm still busy moving stuff to the house. The oldest part was built in 1725 and most of the rest in 1821. I'll email you with some pictires of the kind of walls I need to restore. 👍
I’ve got a 1930s bay window to repoint on my house. It’s been over pointed in cement mortar which is obviously now very brittle and cracking out. Behind is a more red/pink coloured softer mortar. Would this be like mortar? I know some used hydrated lime in a cement mix. I’m thinking an nhl 3.5 for the job. As for below the damp proof course down to floor level (about 5 course) would 3.5 be ok or a stronger lime mix such as an NHL 5? Many thanks .
Hello Glen, I've enjoyed watching your valuable instruction videos; thanks for uploading them. I'm considering buying "Lime Green Buff Coloured Natural Hydraulic Lime Mortar Nhl 3.5 (25Kg)" to re-point an 1892 orange brick back garden wall, is that a product you are familiar enough with to recommend? I'm from Carlisle, and detect what I think is a south west Scotland accent in you - am I right?
Great videos. I have a 1910 terraced house and its needs repointing externally plus i have to replace some bricks on my fireplace im wanting to plqce a multi fuel stove. What lime mortar mix would you recommend for both external and fireplaces?
Hi depends where abouts in the country you are You can use a good quality nhl 2 or 3.5( lafarge ) if you are in a high wind heavy rain part of the country If its more mild weather low winds you can use a putty or nhl 2
I'm re-pointing an old chapel from 1875. What mortar mix would you recommend using? The mix you are using here looks pretty good. What is it and what alternatives might there be. Cheers, Don.
This is a NHL 3.5 I'm using 1 lime 3 brown washed sharp sand Take some of the old lime out the chapel put it in a bucket add a little water see what colour it is Then if you can go to your local quarry and ask what they have close to it If it's in a well protected area you can use ready mix lime putty Or do a 1 to 3 mix with quick lime also known as hot lime you can use it hot or cold Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thanks for the quick reply. Just had a trial run with a mix on my own old Victorian house today. 2 yellow sand, 1 brown sharp sand, 1.5 reddish sand, 2 NHL 3.5. (5:2 ratio) using 3 different kinds of sand. Don't know the name of the red sand but it seems to make the mortar more pliable.Drys dark but lightens up
@@donquixote3820 1:2.5 mix Same as 2:5 so good mix Make sure it's not building sand and it's washed sand keep it damp as long as you can and protect it from the sun Good luck with your project
Hot limes are ok but the hot lime we use today is not what they used years ago around 45 to 50% free lime content not the 90% we use today Where I am in north Wales hot limes will eat away at the sandstone And fail at the high winds and driven rain I use a good quality NHL ranging from 30% to 45 % free lime content People say NHL is to strong but if something is to strong Why haven't they come up with a mix like 1:4 1:5 do tests on that mix I only use hot lime in protected areas And my videos on hot lime is aimed at beginners Hope that helps
Glenn, hope you are doing well. The use of NHL 3.5 or 5. Will these mortars dissipate water in the same way as hydrated lime mortar? I realize they are harder and the rule of thumb is never having a mortar harder than the material. For instance, can NHL 5 be used for brickwork in an area where you have a freeze thaw cycle throughout the winter.?
Nhl have a bad reputation for being hard that's only on poor quality limes Nhl 3.5 or 5 is fine at wicking away water make sure you use a sharp sand not building sand Where abouts do you live
Glenn, I live in Pennsylvania. NHL3.5 is very expensive here. It is about $47 a bag. We have a variety and readily available sands. We call sands with aggregates concrete sand. Glenn, thanks for responding. Hope you are well.
Great video. I'm looking to get into the stone masonry soon hopefully get an adult apprenticeship, what would be the main thing you would recommend researching first skills wise thanks.
@@shauntaylor479 contact the Scottish lime centre See if they can Help Contact stone masons near your area see what kind of work they do see if your interested in the type of work they do Check to see if you can get a government grant To help you
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers man I will do like appreciate it. Iv done some lime pointing on an old house I was labouring in and shadowing a stone mason
@@shauntaylor479 nice one good luck with it If you need any advice give me a message Just make sure who you learn from is good at what they do Everyone has different ways of doing the same job so stay open minded
I am redoing the damp course and have bought a kit to do it with. I watched a few videos and in one the guy backfilled the holes with cement after injecting with the kiesol. Is this something i shouldnt do based on what you have said in this video?
Can you tell me what kit I didn't understand the question Are you pointing bellow a damp proof course or are you injecting liquid under the damp course ?
@vincentput I've never had a problem with nhl 3.5 mixed correctly at 1.2.5 sharp sand I'm in North Wales If your mix is to strong it will lock moisture into the chimney
I can't really answer without more info You will need lime mortar If you want it black again use a Coal ash or soot or a black pigment not a cement dye You could send a piece lime away to be analyzed If it's a protected are you can use a lime putty Or if it's in a high wind and heavy rain area use a NHL 2 or 3.5 Lafarge or saint astier are the 2 brands I'd recommend
@@WilliamAhmed-k8l mid 70s It will normally be built with sand and cement So I'd use a 1 hydrated lime 1 opc 5 or 6 sand The lime helps it stick to the cement
Hang from gutters I use roof battens if I have scaffolding I prop it against the kick board If I have a double inside board I use my pop ups and hang it off them
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers buddy. Just on a job at the minute and had to lean timbers and pray they don't shift! No scaf or gutters unfortunately
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers buddy. Just on a job at the minute and had to lean timbers and pray they don't shift! No scaf or gutters unfortunately
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd used your advice today (first time pointing). Thanks again. Was amazed by how quickly my bricks dried out, even in the misty weather. Got everything covered with Hessian (and a tarp for the rain tomorrow). Do you recommend continuing to mist the brickwork & Hessian for a few days? Looking at highs of 10c and lows of 5c this week here.
Pretty sure my house (built 1947) has the lime mortar. What mix of NHL do you recommend, and to what ratio of sand? I've read through the comments, and it seems like it can vary a bit. I can't find a company in my city who can analyze the mortar.... But what blend is breathable for softer brickwork of the 40's? Thank so much for your help. 🙂
Can you send me some pictures on wattsapp or fb You can take a piece of lime mortar out the wall put it in a bowl put a bit of white vinegar on it let it break down and you can see the colour of the sand used It's mainly local sand Do you have a local quarry near bye
A good quality nhl 2 or 3.5 lafarge Saint astier lafarge Or a hot lime putty if they are really soft brick in a well protected area If you send me pictures on wattsapp or Facebook I can advise you a lot better
Hi I'm new to your channel. Just seen some of your videos and I've already picked up some good tips and advice as well. What's the name of your tool you use ie when your re pointing that holds your muck.
@@jamescraven5001 I've used them for 25 years I can't use anything else it takes a little bit of skill to use it but if you get stuck message me and I will show you
Why did your builder advise against it I've pointed a new build house built in sand and cement reclaimed bricks in nhl 2 lafage it depends on what you are trying to achieve
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd something about inadequate protection for outer shell and that lime is only meant for 9” + solid walls. He recommended a 1:1:7 mix (cement/Hydrated Lime/building sand)
Hi, I’ve got an 1870’s place to replace 16 bricks on a gable. It’s lime but repointed with sand/cement. The building is 100’ long and only happened on that one gable. Bricks are separately spread around gable randomly. Would I be best laying the bricks with a lime mortar and later matching weather struck later with sand/ cement or would I get away with s/c for the whole mortar? 9” bond. Cheers
I'd bed it on lime 100 year old bricks can't handle how strong cement sets I would remove the cement pointing as it will stop the brick wicking away moisture
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok cheers. It’s a huge place and money not on the job to replace pointing which is pretty old too and bricks only bad on that end in a few places so needs to match etc. If I laid them on lime then used sand/cement pointing when dry, would that minimise spalling or cracking? Or is there anything I could add to the cement mix when pointing? Cheers
@t-rex4211 no problem Just let the people know who own the building it should be lime and cement is too hard for the bricks If its built in lime always use lime If you need any help in the future just send me a message thanks
The churn brush is compacting the soft and sharp sand together You can weather strike it I dont as it shows every flaw up on the brickwork I prefer the look of flush or slightly brushed back I use a finger trowel as you don't get as much on the face of the brick or stone
@Syst3mSh0ck yes you also can use hypo or bio wash hydrochloric acid. Many different chemicals, but my videos are aimed at beginners, so I wouldn't adbmvise them using chemicals
Hi Glenn I'm going to repoint the gable wall on my house with lime mortar . I'm not sure what aggregate to use . washed sand ? grit ? . A blend of both ? Can you advise please
I will never repoint any property in bucket handle as it was originally called barrel half round as some people call it roughly 1965 you seen it used on some not all buildings No old property was pointed in that style this house was built 100 years before bucket handle was first used. it's no good for areas in high wind driving rain locations, so I don't agree with your comment
Hi love your videos! But you never explain the morter how you make it and what kind!!!! Can you please tell me what to use what kind? And is it mortar or should i get grout? Or is grout the same thing? Grout is finer sand right? Etc? Thank you would really appreciate your wisdom and help!!!!!
Hi thank you If you put gmt pointing specialists ltd in you tube you will see loads of videos on this house on mixing nhl 2 and 3.5 on the sands I use Most of my videos I'll mention lafarge or Saint astier nhl 2 or 3.5 The sand I use is local to North wales so no good if you live down south If you wattsapp me pictures of your project you are under taking I can help you that way as one lime doesn't fit every building
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Can you use buoldkng sand
I wouldn't
You need a soft grit or sharpsand something angular to compact back into the joints with a churn brush
The most important tool here! The Patience of a Saint!!!!
NHL lime mortar is good as it lets the rain, on the brickwork evaporate through the pointing, as well, which in turn stops the bricks " spalling " due to frost, and pointing should be sacrificial, not the brickwork, because it's easier to replace the pointing, rather than the brickwork, maybe once every 50 years or so.
you are doing every body a good turn.
There's someone who knows!
NHL is setting too hard a lot of us have been on hotlime mixes for years now
Iam a bricklayer and the videos you do are very helpful and informative..cement pointing NHL lime and hot lime all have there places for different jobs ..your Always going get abuse of key board warriors because they don't like you giving tips away ..very good video pal very 👍
Thank you much appreciated
put your business name in a comment I like to share other trades details
I love you so much, dont need anymore videos on how to lay bricks! Need more from you! 👍👍👍
First time at lime pointing and your videos have been fantastic help. Thank you very much 😊
@Liam-kl9qq thank you means a lot. If you ever need help just message me. I'm here to help
Brilliant demonstration covering virtually all aspects of this tradition.
@2icelollys1goat thank you for your kind words. I have over aa 100 videos on my channel if you like lime pointing
Good stuff, Glenn, top-class, extended demo.
Will refer to your tutorials each time you upload, hopefully start my own work again come next Spring 👍
No probs if I can help let me know
I've one more job to do then that's me I've had a busy year some difficult jobs my body needs a rest lol
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Aye, you deserve a couple of pints, pal 🏆
I'm repointing similar bricks. Some spalled or cracked replaced. Had to stain the new bricks to blend in. Just keeping an eye on temperature Glenn. Using Lime Base pre-mixed and nearly done a ton bag. Pump spray I've found great for keeping the mortar damp. Great video 👍
The house I'm on now has just over a tonne and a half I mix my own I don't use premixed
I couldn't replace 50% as it's single skin in places
6 degrees and rising
I don't use a really wet mix so I just cover over for a week
Most people think the worst time to point is the winter imo it's not the summer is as the mix dries out quicker and you use more water keeping it damp
Love the piece of wood!!! Makes sense to me and saves a few quid!
@@NAFO_Badger_Brigade thank you
Lots of good tips here from someone who clearly understands what they're doing and looking to do a quality job. Compare this with videos repointing around the drain pipes, no PPE, and no consideration for a nice clean face finish. Thank you
Thank you
Yes top man he is, helped me learn with his video
This is a great video. Thank you. Also not seen a pointing hod before - looks a much better option than a hawk.
Thank you
I've always used a hod they are only cheap
And last a long time
They keep the moisture in the hod as well
Highly recommended them
Sad seeing the bricks get slight damage from the pick, wish there was an easier way. Thanks for showing us though.
I have seen people use angle grinder or drill to get out the main portion of mortar, both look very difficult not to damage bricks really. Looks even harder when it's all over the face too.
Thanks for your tuition.
I did a bit of emergency amature bodge job filling of missing bits of pointing on about 6 bricks below my damp course 😂 but the rest of my wall was good so it's nice to know how to rake out and repoint properly in the future.
Your tips very helpful.
Excellent video. Just what I need for my Victorian terraced house. Some clever good for nothing has decided to patch areas up with cement so I’ve got some rectifying to do.
Good luck with your
Project
if I can be of any help give me a wattsapp message of a night time
@@markslack6593 hi I used a good quality NHL
I also used a mix of washed sharp and grit
About 5 different grades of brown sand
@@markslack6593 only if you use sand that's grey in colour
Use brown sharp grit sand
Put some of your sharp sand into a bucket just a hand full and over wet it if your sand makes the water a dirty grey colour or if the sand is mainly grey
Don't use it I've done a video on different sands have a watch of that one see if your sands similar
Great video mate, thanks. just did a cavity reclaimed brick wall with NHL 3.5 and leaving it overnight to use my churn brush, hope it turns out as nice as yours.
Thanks mate I use a stick to push it back first then a churn brush
Good luck take your time do a small area first
Try not to over work it with the churn brush
Hi mate just wondering what your views are on using NHL the day after its been mixed if covered with water in a bucket over night and knocked back up in the mixer ? cheers
Hi depending on what NHL you are using
You can use it the next day
If you read the data sheet it says use within
4 or 5 hrs as when you add water that's when the chemical reaction starts
So yes you can use it the next day
If there's not much I do a fresh mix and add it back into the mix so it's knocking up again
Lime is made to be reused
I even use the water again that I've cleaned the mixer and buckets with
You will find
Aggregate sits at the bottom
Lime sits on top in a slurry then clean water sits on top
Hope that helps
Hi thanks for the information. It's been a bit of a running grey area especially with some clients who are against the Idea. We cover with water to slow the chemical reaction? And often add a mini mix to it the next day after draining off the water. We use 5 and 3.5 namely singleton birch. I find the mix a much better consistency than freshly made mortar
@@leecarbines6767 hi yes it allowed to get fatty they call it works more like a putty
You can ask 10 lime experts and get 10 different ways of doing it if it's what you prefer stick to it
As long as it doesn't shrink or crack it's fine
I always use mine on the dryer side and can easily use a full mix in the day so I never usually have any left over lol
Thanks pal much appreciated
Wish I watched your videos before i started pointing my wall 😪. I have an old wall in my garden which probably dates back to early 1800s and its got lime which is crumbling away. I put on a 40mm angle grinder raking attachment and took out all the loose lime and removed and replaced a load of blown out bricks which were literally obliterated. I then stated repointed the wall with a portland based cement with building sand. I have repointed 30% of the wall but havent done the rest as its such a big wall. Would you still advise using an NHL 3.5 or can I get away with the portland based cement mix with building sand?
@garywilliams2226 if it was built with lime I always put lime back
Old bricks can't take the pressure of cement and water can't escape through cement
What mix ratio did you do with cement
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd i did a 4 to 1 mix. To be honest, it looks as if there have been multiple repairs on the brick wall and it looks as if someone has previously applied a portland cement and sand mix to the bottom of the wall the mortar is very hard but the top and mid section of the wall it looks quite bad but as mentioned ive removed the blown out bricks and rebuilt parts of the wall in portland cement with building sand.
I should have mentioned its a double brick wall and the neighbours side doesnt look too bad but he too has lime mortar the very soft mortar which crumbles away.
That's what you want when it crumbles you repoint it
4:1 sand and cement is too strong for old bricks
excellent educational video Glenn thanks mate
No problems just ask if you need any advice
Feel free to subscribe or hit the notification button as I'll be doing a few more videos
Hi Glenn
just wondering where did you buy the hawk and what’s it called 👍grt videos
Lol I'm Glenn 😁
If you go on eBay put mini pointing hod in it should pop up
Or Facebook
C & e pointing hod
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks Glenn
Hi there mate really like your videos and what you’re doing. I’m doing a little job on my house. It’s a Victorian house so I want to use a 3.5 nhl lime. What sand would you recommend and is the 4:1 with no cement? Sorry for the silly question, it’s just I’m a beginner. Do I also have to use placitser too?
Hi nhl 3.5 you have good and bad
I use lafarge or Saint astier
I mix at a 1:3
I've done a video on how to mix nhl
If you wattsapp me some pictures what your doing I can give you better advice if needed
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd
Hi mate is there any chance I can WhatsApp you to recommend what mortar to point two buildings with. My building and my parents. Thanks
Yes mate do some close up pictures as well
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd hi mate how can I send you these photos?
Also another question if this is OK? What would I expect to pay if I decided to get someone in to do it. Raking out and pointing on a sqm basis just so I don't get ripped off. I'm a electrician by trade and useful with tools but sometimes it's easier to go to work and then pay someone but don't want to get ripped off.( however I do like a challenge and would keep me busy on the weekends when I'm not busy as hate watching TV 👍)
Thanks for your time
@@Charlie-d4e google gmt pointing specialists lts and wattsapp them me
I’ve got to do my 1890 house. Is pre mixed ok? Also any tips on engineering brick
Yeah premixed is fine
Don't at to much water to it as you will have tight joints
Sponge any overspill of the bricks before it sets
Good morning. Thanks for the video - why was a like render used as opposed to a cement render. Thanks, Jeff
I'm not sure what your question is
There's no render here this is lime pointing
I’m sorry - I’m using the incorrect terms - what I meant was - why was a lime mortar being used instead of a cement based mortar. Thanks, Jeff
@JeffHill-ig9os because the house was built in lime
So you put lime back in
Cement will destroy the bricks and lock moisture into the wall
Just a query. What value does pointing with lime have when the rest of the mortar is still cement ?
The cement has been removed from the joints a little still remains on the face of the brick
It's lime built so I'm pointing lime back on top of lime
I've done a couple of videos on this property you see on them that I'm removing cement pointing because it's destroying the bricks and locking moisture in the walls
Glenn: we need you in Canada. So many amazing stone buildings are being hurt…
Apparently hot lime was used for the original bedding mortar ..? Any indication of the original pointing mortar left?
@ianwhitehead3086 yes lime was present
I used a nhl 2 and 3.5 because of the high wind heavy rain area
Hot lime won't last
There's a large wood store in one of the videos that actually blew over and 100 trees in a 2 mile area blew over one was as wide as my van
How long do you leave it until you wash down the brickwork?
After pointing, keep misting it for 2 or 3 days then you can wash the walls down
But you will have hessian on the walls
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd how many times a dsy roughly would you say to mist it as we just finished the pointing and have left hessian damp
@db_0042 Every time the hessian dries out
In this heat, you have to be careful
The lime doesnt dry out too quickly
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd okay thank you
Great video very helpful where do you get your pointing hod from please mate
eBay
Search mini pointing hod about £10
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thank you super fast reply
I have a problem where the stone toppers of a wall and top few courses of brick were pulled off and reinstalled using cement mortar. Will the cement destroy the brick? Do I need to completely remove and reinstall using lime mortar?
@Stashman94 it depends how old the bricks are and how strong a cement mix they used
If you wattsapp me some pictures or email I'll give you a better idea if I can see it
Hi whats the purpose of the Hessian cloth and does it need to be wet
How long do you leave that on for ?
Thanks
Akhtar
Hi
Hessian is damp or wet in hot months it stops the wind heat sun drying the lime out to quick
In winter it stops frost from attacking the lime it clings to the hessian
In winter I will use hessian bubble wrap and a tarpaulin sheet to protect it
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltdit would be nice to see you hanging the hessian and how you fixed it to stay in place. I'll have to check out your other videos.
Can lime pointing be used on garden retaining wall? Or would cement and lime mix be better but with weep vents in that senario?
@@BlueVelvetBear you can do both but if it was built in lime I always replace in lime
Thanks for the informative demonstration. I am needing to address similar on my house but as I am quite close to you (Bunbury), you will likely receive a call from me when I next get home.
Many thanks.
Hi Glenn. I see you pointed a scrape back and used your churn brush after around 10 minutes. Can you do that or is it best to fo that the day after. Thanks
@davidbridgewater4670 hi no leave it longer these bricks sucked the moisture in so dried the lime quicker
After you point, leave it till it's finger print hard
If you churn, brush it off too soon it will stick to the churn
Depends on the air temperature
Depends on how wet your mix is
Depends on how absorbent the bricks are
Hope that helps
Thank you for another great video.
Quick question if I may? How much would I charge for this type of pointing?
I currently charge £70 per metre to rake out and repoint with cement in bucket handle but trying to expand into lime pointing.
Thank you
Liam
@Liam-h3v £ 70 for cement and bucket handle is a good price
It depends on the lime you are using
Send me some pictures of your work on wattsapp and the area you cover
Is Cement mortar alright for a 1930's house? One wall of my house has just been repointed with 4 parts sand : 1 part Cement. As a complete novice home owner I'm now wondering how do I tell if its ok to point the rest of the house also with 4:1 sand / cement, or if it needs lime based mortar.
@vc6769 I'd never recommend a 4:1 on any building that's a mix for laying bricks
1 hydrated lime
1 cement
5 sand is the strongest I'd go with cement
A house that age, depending on your area, most probably was built in lime
On an old part of the house, put some white vinegar on the pointing if it starts to fizz its lime
So you should use lime
Lime will let moisture out of the pointing
Where cement doesn't
I really appreciate your advice, thank you, that's the best explanation I've had, a real game changer for this DIYer.
My you tube channel is to help people like yourself
If you have any questions feel free to ask
Very informative, thank you. Does that brush have a specific name or will any reasonabley stuff brush do to wack in the mortar? Thanks. I need to do this to a wall made from rock or sandstone. The mortar is crumbling to the touch.
Thank you it's called a churn brush cocoanut hair the one I prefer to use
you can get a synthetic from Screwfix or Toolstation only about a fiver
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thanks for your quick reply. I'll try to find something similar. I'm in Germany but have similar places to screw fix. Theres also lots of infill between timbersbto rebuild with the original rocks. The old mortar or whatever was used is like mud or sand and just falls away. Ive never seen anything like it. I know some folk replace the rock infill with blocks and render over them but I'd like to keep it as original as possible.
@@paulklasmann1218 earth mortar it will probably be I'm on wattsapp and email if you want any advice or if you want to send some pictures
Just Google gmt pointing specialists ltd
I'd do a before and after and put it on my RUclips channel no pressure like lol
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you very much, that's very kind of you. Sure, I'll take some pictures send them to you in a few days. I'm still busy moving stuff to the house. The oldest part was built in 1725 and most of the rest in 1821. I'll email you with some pictires of the kind of walls I need to restore. 👍
@@paulklasmann1218 that's great thanks
I’ve got a 1930s bay window to repoint on my house. It’s been over pointed in cement mortar which is obviously now very brittle and cracking out. Behind is a more red/pink coloured softer mortar. Would this be like mortar? I know some used hydrated lime in a cement mix. I’m thinking an nhl 3.5 for the job. As for below the damp proof course down to floor level (about 5 course) would 3.5 be ok or a stronger lime mix such as an NHL 5? Many thanks .
Hi just use a nhl 3.5 lafarge or Saint astier
Use a washer grit or sharp sand
Don't use building sand
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks for your reply. Can you get it in bags ready mixed ie just add water? Think I’ve seen them online somewhere?
@LifeOfMarc1990 google lime suppliers near me and see who has the best price
Very helpful videos - thanks!
Thank you. If you have any questions feel free to ask
Or wattsapp me your project and I will chat to you about it its free
Hello Glen, I've enjoyed watching your valuable instruction videos; thanks for uploading them. I'm considering buying "Lime Green Buff Coloured Natural Hydraulic Lime Mortar Nhl 3.5 (25Kg)" to re-point an 1892 orange brick back garden wall, is that a product you are familiar enough with to recommend? I'm from Carlisle, and detect what I think is a south west Scotland accent in you - am I right?
Hi yes thank you and yes Dalry area I was raised
Yes lime green products are good
Masons mortar is close to you
So may supply people in your area
Great videos. I have a 1910 terraced house and its needs repointing externally plus i have to replace some bricks on my fireplace im wanting to plqce a multi fuel stove. What lime mortar mix would you recommend for both external and fireplaces?
Hi depends where abouts in the country you are
You can use a good quality nhl 2 or 3.5( lafarge ) if you are in a high wind heavy rain part of the country
If its more mild weather low winds you can use a putty or nhl 2
Top draw mate well done
@@flyingrabbit829 thanks
What kind of a mix would you use to re point limestone blocks?
I need a bit more info
Is this blocks on
A house
Retaining wall or footpath ?
House retaining wall
@@JulianJakimowicz could you wattsapp some pictures over
Or face book them I will take a look for you
I'm re-pointing an old chapel from 1875. What mortar mix would you recommend using? The mix you are using here looks pretty good. What is it and what alternatives might there be. Cheers, Don.
This is a NHL 3.5
I'm using 1 lime 3 brown washed sharp sand
Take some of the old lime out the chapel put it in a bucket add a little water see what colour it is
Then if you can go to your local quarry and ask what they have close to it
If it's in a well protected area you can use ready mix lime putty
Or do a 1 to 3 mix with quick lime also known as hot lime you can use it hot or cold
Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thanks for the quick reply. Just had a trial run with a mix on my own old Victorian house today. 2 yellow sand, 1 brown sharp sand, 1.5 reddish sand, 2 NHL 3.5. (5:2 ratio) using 3 different kinds of sand. Don't know the name of the red sand but it seems to make the mortar more pliable.Drys dark but lightens up
@@donquixote3820 1:2.5 mix
Same as 2:5 so good mix
Make sure it's not building sand and it's washed sand
keep it damp as long as you can and protect it from the sun
Good luck with your project
Ever tried a more traditional hot lime? It's better than NHL limes. Good fun to mix too. Just be careful!
Hot limes are ok
but the hot lime we use today is not what they used years ago around 45 to 50% free lime content not the 90% we use today
Where I am in north Wales hot limes will eat away at the sandstone
And fail at the high winds and driven rain
I use a good quality NHL ranging from 30% to 45 % free lime content
People say NHL is to strong but if something is to strong
Why haven't they come up with a mix like 1:4 1:5 do tests on that mix
I only use hot lime in protected areas
And my videos on hot lime is aimed at beginners
Hope that helps
Great demonstration!
Glenn, hope you are doing well. The use of NHL 3.5 or 5. Will these mortars dissipate water in the same way as hydrated lime mortar? I realize they are harder and the rule of thumb is never having a mortar harder than the material. For instance, can NHL 5 be used for brickwork in an area where you have a freeze thaw cycle throughout the winter.?
Nhl have a bad reputation for being hard that's only on poor quality limes
Nhl 3.5 or 5 is fine at wicking away water make sure you use a sharp sand not building sand
Where abouts do you live
Glenn, I live in Pennsylvania. NHL3.5 is very expensive here. It is about $47 a bag. We have a variety and readily available sands. We call sands with aggregates concrete sand. Glenn, thanks for responding. Hope you are well.
@peterfcoyle9127 that's it concreting sand
What make of nhl do you have over there
Here to help do you have a lot of pointing to do
Great video. I'm looking to get into the stone masonry soon hopefully get an adult apprenticeship, what would be the main thing you would recommend researching first skills wise thanks.
What area do you live in
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd in conon bridge near Inverness (highlands)
@@shauntaylor479 contact the Scottish lime centre
See if they can
Help
Contact stone masons near your area see what kind of work they do see if your interested in the type of work they do
Check to see if you can get a government grant
To help you
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers man I will do like appreciate it.
Iv done some lime pointing on an old house I was labouring in and shadowing a stone mason
@@shauntaylor479 nice one good luck with it
If you need any advice give me a message
Just make sure who you learn from is good at what they do
Everyone has different ways of doing the same job so stay open minded
Hi what are you holding the mortar in before you put the mortar into the joints
A pointing hod
I've used them for 25 years
I am redoing the damp course and have bought a kit to do it with. I watched a few videos and in one the guy backfilled the holes with cement after injecting with the kiesol. Is this something i shouldnt do based on what you have said in this video?
Sorry...this was meant to be commented on your other video!
Can you tell me what kit
I didn't understand the question
Are you pointing bellow a damp proof course or are you injecting liquid under the damp course ?
Hi, when would you use NHL5?
Underground or on a sea wall I've never used a nhl 5
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd so for exposed walls (westerly gusts) an 3.5 is fine? Bricks are coal fired and rock hard so not a problem
@vincentput I've never had a problem with nhl 3.5 mixed correctly at 1.2.5 sharp sand
I'm in North Wales
If your mix is to strong it will lock moisture into the chimney
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks for the info mate. Greetings from Eastern Belgium :)
Where did you get the hawk from? Cheers
Ebay put in mini pointing hod
Or go on my video mini pointing hod it gives you the fb page
Hi great video, could you tell me what I should be using to point over the old black motar and what mix ratio thank you
I can't really answer without more info
You will need lime mortar
If you want it black again use a
Coal ash or soot or a black pigment not a cement dye
You could send a piece lime away to be analyzed
If it's a protected are you can use a lime putty
Or if it's in a high wind and heavy rain area use a NHL 2 or 3.5
Lafarge or saint astier are the 2 brands I'd recommend
What’s best mix for repointing a gable end can I use a bag of lime instead of bag of cement
How olds the property
What lime are you using ?
What's best mix for a sea front repointing job, I'm gonna be using nhl5
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd mids 70s
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltdnhl
@@WilliamAhmed-k8l mid 70s
It will normally be built with sand and cement
So I'd use a
1 hydrated lime
1 opc
5 or 6 sand
The lime helps it stick to the cement
Sounds daft, but how do you put Hessian over? Do you hang it off guttering or prop using timbers? Cheers and great vid
Hang from gutters
I use roof battens if I have scaffolding I prop it against the kick board
If I have a double inside board I use my pop ups and hang it off them
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers buddy. Just on a job at the minute and had to lean timbers and pray they don't shift! No scaf or gutters unfortunately
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers buddy. Just on a job at the minute and had to lean timbers and pray they don't shift! No scaf or gutters unfortunately
@@markwilson8959 hi nail it into the wall and when you remove it just fill the holes where the nails went in
Only way you can do it some times
Great video! Thank you
Thanks for the info. How long did you leave those top joints before scraping off?
It varies on the
Bricks
Air Temperature
You can knock back 20 minutes later or even the next day
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd much appreciated thanks for the response
@@vulcan1154 if it hardens up before you use the stick and churn brush just most it over it will soften it up again
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd used your advice today (first time pointing). Thanks again. Was amazed by how quickly my bricks dried out, even in the misty weather. Got everything covered with Hessian (and a tarp for the rain tomorrow).
Do you recommend continuing to mist the brickwork & Hessian for a few days? Looking at highs of 10c and lows of 5c this week here.
@@vulcan1154 yeah keep it damp for a few days perfect weather atm it won't dry out to quick
Pretty sure my house (built 1947) has the lime mortar. What mix of NHL do you recommend, and to what ratio of sand? I've read through the comments, and it seems like it can vary a bit. I can't find a company in my city who can analyze the mortar.... But what blend is breathable for softer brickwork of the 40's? Thank so much for your help. 🙂
Can you send me some pictures on wattsapp or fb
You can take a piece of lime mortar out the wall put it in a bowl put a bit of white vinegar on it let it break down and you can see the colour of the sand used
It's mainly local sand
Do you have a local quarry near bye
Hi mate whats the best mix for lime pointing brickwork
A good quality nhl 2 or 3.5 lafarge Saint astier lafarge
Or a hot lime putty if they are really soft brick in a well protected area
If you send me pictures on wattsapp or Facebook I can advise you a lot better
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd will do mate and do you use grit sand and buolding sand
@matthewingham7806 no I never use building sand or sea dredged
I only use a soft grit or a sharp sand
I have 4 different types I use
Hi I'm new to your channel. Just seen some of your videos and I've already picked up some good tips and advice as well. What's the name of your tool you use ie when your re pointing that holds your muck.
It's a pointing hod
I think they are about £8 on ebay
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ohh fantastic thanks for that I shall definitely be getting one. Looks so much easier with that.. Subscribed
@@jamescraven5001 I've used them for 25 years I can't use anything else it takes a little bit of skill to use it
but if you get stuck message me and I will show you
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd yeah i will do. Thank you I appreciate that.
What ratio did you use?
1 lafarge nhl 2 3 brown sharp sand
The weatherside I used lafarge nhl 3.5 1:3 mix
But it depends on your bricks
What mix to use
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thank you, do you recommend to just use sharp sand when pointing with lime?
@@db_0042 sharp or grit
I dont use building sand or sea dredged as I always tamper it back with a churn brush
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd perfect. thank you
Have you ever pointed a post war house with a cavity wall in lime? If so, what type did you use? I’ve been advised against it by a builder
Why did your builder advise against it
I've pointed a new build house built in sand and cement reclaimed bricks in nhl 2 lafage it depends on what you are trying to achieve
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd something about inadequate protection for outer shell and that lime is only meant for 9” + solid walls. He recommended a 1:1:7 mix (cement/Hydrated Lime/building sand)
@@MikeGarnett-u8b what age is your property
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd 30s
@user-fv9ld8yf4k good chance it's built in lime mortar so use lime no cement on a building that age
Nice work!
@@NAFO_Badger_Brigade thank you if you need any advice just ask
Hi, I’ve got an 1870’s place to replace 16 bricks on a gable. It’s lime but repointed with sand/cement. The building is 100’ long and only happened on that one gable. Bricks are separately spread around gable randomly. Would I be best laying the bricks with a lime mortar and later matching weather struck later with sand/ cement or would I get away with s/c for the whole mortar? 9” bond. Cheers
I'd bed it on lime
100 year old bricks can't handle how strong cement sets
I would remove the cement pointing as it will stop the brick wicking away moisture
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok cheers. It’s a huge place and money not on the job to replace pointing which is pretty old too and bricks only bad on that end in a few places so needs to match etc. If I laid them on lime then used sand/cement pointing when dry, would that minimise spalling or cracking? Or is there anything I could add to the cement mix when pointing? Cheers
@t-rex4211 no there's nothing you can do apart from do a weak sand cement mix
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok, many thanks 👍
@t-rex4211 no problem
Just let the people know who own the building it should be lime and cement is too hard for the bricks
If its built in lime always use lime
If you need any help in the future just send me a message thanks
Can you weather point to lime mortar with ordinary pointing trowel.? Or must you brush hitting, flush joints ? Anyone !?
The churn brush is compacting the soft and sharp sand together
You can weather strike it
I dont as it shows every flaw up on the brickwork
I prefer the look of flush or slightly brushed back
I use a finger trowel as you don't get as much on the face of the brick or stone
You can use muriatic acid and a stiff synthetic brush to wash off moss, algae and detritus 👍
@Syst3mSh0ck yes you also can use hypo or bio wash hydrochloric acid. Many different chemicals, but my videos are aimed at beginners, so I wouldn't adbmvise them using chemicals
The depth needs to be greater than the width
Yes, normally twice the depth of the width or as deep as your blade will go
great vid, thank you
Thank you
If you have any questions or I can help just ask
Hi Glenn
I'm going to repoint the gable wall on my house with lime mortar . I'm not sure what aggregate to use . washed sand ? grit ? . A blend of both ? Can you advise please
Always washed sharp or grit
The pointing will go light but then it will go to the colour of the sand
Brilliant video
I was doing some yesterday and some idiot as used cement instead of lime 🤨
It winds me up I can't remember the last job I didn't have to remove cement pointing
What area do you cover for pointing work
I'm going to repoint a chinney breast that i opened up in my 1870 house.
This makes it look so satisfyingly, cant wait to give it a go.
Good luck if you need any advice, just send a message
With it being inside you need to watch for it drying out too quickly
3:36 3:37 yeah you could put your phone on mute
I do these videos to help people my phone ringing or messaging gets me the work to make videos
Barrel jointer goes a long ways
I will never repoint any property in bucket handle as it was originally called barrel half round as some people call it roughly 1965 you seen it used on some not all buildings
No old property was pointed in that style this house was built 100 years before bucket handle was first used. it's no good for areas in high wind driving rain locations, so I don't agree with your comment
very slowly work... You won't earn for life...
@KlausBOLS1 I'm doing a video to show people how to do pointing
And I earn a good living
So you are wrong
Hi love your videos! But you never explain the morter how you make it and what kind!!!! Can you please tell me what to use what kind? And is it mortar or should i get grout? Or is grout the same thing? Grout is finer sand right? Etc? Thank you would really appreciate your wisdom and help!!!!!
Hi thank you
If you put gmt pointing specialists ltd in you tube you will see loads of videos
on this house
on mixing nhl 2 and 3.5
on the sands I use
Most of my videos I'll mention lafarge or Saint astier nhl 2 or 3.5
The sand I use is local to North wales so no good if you live down south
If you wattsapp me pictures of your project you are under taking I can help you that way as one lime doesn't fit every building