Repointing a Stone Wall with Lime Mortar
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- Time to take a short break from the roof and get started on the west gable end wall. This wall had been pointed with cement and needs to be restored back to the far more suitable lime mortar to keep the wall breathable and make sure that the stone is better preserved.
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#limemortar #stonewall #repointingwithlime
Lime! The very job which caused me to find your channel in the first place. I must have binged the whole lot over the past 18 months!
Great channel. I love when people do things right and not the easy and stupid way.
Me too. 👍
I’m just doing this myself. Some of our stones are really close together and it’s taking a good while. Labour of love.
Dressed stone should have a 3mm joint so that it is difficult to point however, it rarely needs pointing as the erosion should not be more than 3mm deep
Tim, the attention to detail is superb. Re-pointing tip from an old-school bricklayer - do the perpends (vertical joints) first.
I was taught with flush pointing the beds first and what is surprising how much gets pushed up the perp and same at the other end when you come to the perps a lot of them are already filled up and just needs one swipe. Weather struck opposite way, perps first and it takes longer up to 3 or 4 goes once if your lucky. I use a hawk and a tray which is 0.5 metre ideal for flush pointing when used straight on the wall pushing the cement straight of tray onto wall i find this way fills the joints up better and quicker. What a great job, i love working on old buildings churches and the like brick and flint. Forgot to mention i was taught to mix a big batch cover it and leave it for about 2 weeks that's with no cement
Seen this on Instagram earlier and been looking forward to it. Hope you and the family are safe and well tim 👍
Shot and edited the same day, that rarely happens! 😁
You have the patience of Jobe, looking forward to no more scaffolding and you indoors on another project.
Always wondered how and why like mortar is used. Great vid. From an old retired US contractor!
That was not only satisfying but looked stunning after it was brushed...I could watch you do the whole wall...just keep the camera rolling 🤣🤣🙋🏻♀️💕🇬🇧
I love working with lime over cement. I’ve done a load of brickwork repairs recently with nhl 3.5 and it’s so nice to point up with, even if you get some on the face it cleans up so easily
Hi Abell, do you believe type n mortar is bad to use on a 1890 stone foundation? Thx Charlie
@@charliegalanti8765 I’m not familiar with Type N mortar I’m afraid
Good to see it done properly. Lots of historic homes round my way and 90% have had gypsum cement or render. Lots of hundred year old oak frames that have been destroyed only in the last 50years
That lime based mortar looks so much better. Well done!
Nice pointing, wrong time of year for line work, particularly lime putty mortars. NHL mortars have a slightly better chance, but generally lime season is from April to October. Use a pan mixer to mix rather than paddle mixer or normal bell mixer. Pan mixer crushes the mortar and makes it far more plastic and pliable. You have been lucky so far in November it’s been relatively mild, but you will need to protect that area through the winter from below 5 degree temperatures, otherwise it will blow and fail, rain and drying winds will also exacerbate problems. Likely to shrink so you’ll need to retool it. I believe lime mortars cure at a rate of about 3 mm depth per month, so although the surface may have a hard skin, beneath it will be soft and vulnerable to frost blowing; the surface flakes off. Wait until spring and do it then. Ex English Heritage I am a QS who works for conservation companies.
I live in Brittany and need to repoint some walls both internal and external so I am watching lots of tutorials presently. Your advice re suitable months to do is simply priceless and can save a lot of heartache and money. Is it correct that I use; sharp sand (?) of a suitable colour to complement the stones and lime in a 3/4/5:1 ratio? Much appreciated if you could advise in due course..regards Will
@@willmoore7582 we tend to use sharp sand and NHL 2 or 3.5 at 5 : 2 Sharp sand to lime, , also I would sieve the sharp sand as well as they tend to have quite a lot of bigger aggregates. we have recently found some premix from the old house store which comes in powder form and you just need to add some water, and mix well
Totally agree.
I'm repointing an old cottage in Northern Scotland, so you can imagine how short the 'lime season' is up there. Basically, up here if you're not being bitten by something it's too early or late. 😁
I've had a few shrinkage failures so using damp sheets and loose plastic (not enough to prevent air access) which seems to be better. So much nicer than working with OPC.
The English Heritage tome on using lime is superb by the way, although not cheap and not a 5-minute read. Glad I bought it though.
It's 3 mm per year if you're lucky
If he was going to use a pan mixer he could of paid someone else to do the job as they are 3 grand minimum
April till October
What about July August when the air temp is to high
You may be a q's but you have never been on the tools by the sounds of it
Putty is for inside not out it was used for decorative work not outside work
What a load of tosh. You must live in la la land
You have a rather large brain and a heart to match.
Thank you for sharing.
So very cool to experience what you and your wife have accomplished with your projects, but especially your children.
The world needs lots more of you.
I like how you are keeping to the historic building traditions. A labor of love.
Well done, you are willing to give anything a bash. I tend to point it really proud then brush it when dry. a bigger key might help also 👍👍
I really love these videos where you show how your trying to do things the correct, and old way of things.
Get an old plastic bucket lid and cut it in half. Cheap lightweight hawk which can hold a lot of putty. That and a short tuck pointer is all you need. Problem now will be the weather and protecting the work for the winter. Hope all goes well 👍
Best advice is to work back into the mortar you have just put in it will make your life easier 😎👍
Tool is a heart and square, beautiful job Tim well worth all the effort 👍
That's looking so good. It's gonna be beautiful when the entire house is completed.
Tip for pointing like that... right handed go from right to left then when you’re pushing the mortar in you can really press it in against what’s already there. 👍🏻.
Also, do the perps first
And bash it with the churning brush to compact it.
Perps 1st . Always wet the stone . Horrible job raking and pointing . I'd run the grinder over it after you've brok it all out. Helps to keep a nice square edge
@@partybwoy8521it's alright when you're on price
I would be really interested in more lime videos. As a fellow DIY’er always interested in seeing other peoples experiences with such products which good knowledge is hard to find.
Pointing is fiddly I stumbled across the same tool for some lime pointing. Found it to be really good. Also got a cheap plastic hawk, as I found it much easier to hold up next to the wall. Lime loved the expensive aluminium hawk, as it ate it
Such patience needed but so worth it. Looking amazing.
Great work as always. Nice to see (but not seen) someone up there with you. Impressive on IG you said “get the video up tonight” and here it is 🙌🏽. Is this Jo’s editing work? 🤔. I saw a gentleman on TikTok doing finish work on a pantry entryway. He put pocket holes in the baseboard to attach it to the the door frame; made me think of you, then glued a matching laminate over the baseboard inside and out. Really nice finish work ... in the comment section some said “What was the point of doing the laminate on the inside where nobody would see it, why not just leave it bare wood” 😱🤯 ...I left a complimentary comment for the creator on his finish work. Tim I know you think you do over kill on some projects BUT it is such a breath of fresh air to see someone do clean work. Watching you take time (research) and care on projects and me knowing someone is watching, learning and appreciating what can be had by doing the same.
You have just saved your house Tim . Wish these so called builders would follow your example
Non-hydraulic lime will set and harden through drying out and absorbing carbon dioxide from the air. This means they have a very slow set: CO2 is only absorbed when certain conditions are met. They are the softest, most breathable limes available. (-0AD not known to 1900AD) This is the type of lime you want for historical accuracy and very soft stone
Hydraulic limes set under water and are made in the same way as non-hydraulic lime but using different limestone. They are sold as NHL (Natural Hydraulic Lime). and have an initial set when water is added, followed by hardening while they absorb carbon dioxide. The more hydraulic a lime is the faster it sets and the higher it's final strength, but this means that it is less breathable and flexible. (used from 1890 AD, first patented by John Smeaton in 1756. used 1800 to around 1930 when OPC/cement took over)
Lime putty can be made from either type of lime, Hydraulic lime putty will set underwater within hours or days making them impractical, whereas non-hydraulic lime putty will remain plastic and improve with age.
Softer Stone (e.g., Sandstone, Limestone, etc.): Non-hydraulic lime or Non-hydraulic lime putty is often preferred due to its softer, more flexible nature. It's less likely to cause stress or damage to softer stones and provides a good, gentle bond.
Harder Stone (e.g., Granite, Basalt, etc.): NHL (Natural Hydraulic Lime) can be a suitable choice, especially if the stone is very hard and impermeable. NHL has hydraulic properties that allow it to set in the presence of water, which can be advantageous for these types of surfaces.
NHL (Natural Hydraulic Lime) CAN also be used with Sandstone, limestone, especially if it's a harder, denser type of limestone, hope this helps people.
its so funny fella every time i have a job to do on my house and need some help, i find a vid of you doing it haha
top man, And job looks awesome!
Looks fantastic, keep up the amazing work!!
We’ve recently moved into an old cottage (approximately 350 years old) which from an external appearance has been ruined with the application of ‘modern’ render - most of it (thankfully) sounds hollow to the knocking stick (!!) as expected. We’re just beginning to get quotes in for stripping off the old portland & sand cement mix to be replaced with lime render over the cob elements and then lime repointing for the stonework. Interestingly none of the specialists would advocate doing any lime work at this time of year. Apparently it’ll take weeks before reaching full strength & until that happens rain & frost are the biggest enemies of lime.
I’ll certainly be watching your future episodes (along with any others, of course!) and may take on parts of the pointing work here - but then, as someone probably famous once may have said, ‘Work fascinates me - I could sit and watch it all day’. From that you could be forgiven for thinking that I fall into the ‘reluctant diy’er camp!!
I love this - I drive past your old house several times a week and it still looks good. Pointing done well enhances the look of a house so much, and there's so much bad pointing out there, particularly in this area! We have a lot of this to do to our detached 5 bed, and I was thinking that going around and removing all the old pointing first would make sense, then doing the repointing, but I imagine this would leave joints exposed for months or more. Do you think that's a problem?
Looks good, I am doing the same at the top of a gable wall at the moment. Just started putting a bit of pozzolan in due to the time of year (Argical). I know it is a risk this late but I have my own scaffolding so can fix any problems if it gets damaged by frost, etc., next year. Better than the holes in the wall there are now and it will at least protect what is left of the exposed common (earth) mortar used in the centre of the wall. The latter seems to be made of yellow clay subsoil stabilised with lime which definitely does not do well if it gets wet (it crumbles to dust) but stays stiff as long as it is dry. The hot mixed lime mortar will act as a sacrificial layer pulling water out by capillary action as soon as it has dried at the surface, even before it carbonated to full strength as I understand it. Hot mixing using quicklime and applying immediately also seems to give an earlier stiffness to the mortar with less shrinkage and has more free lime to heal micro-cracks and to assist with the moisture transport mechanism. It is also an east facing wall with overhanging eaves so rarely gets driving rain.
Hi I’ve been watching Tim’s lime pointing video and reading the comments. I’m in exactly the same scenario as you were a year ago , hot lime pointing in winter . Just out of interest if you don’t mind me asking , how did your pointing fair ? , and any pointers that might help ? Many thanks in advance
Another excellent video. Your work is amazing!!
I done brick work with lime mortar and instead of brushing it with a churn brush we use to beat the beds and purps bring out the aggregate
I was always trained to do ( Perp joints 1st ) & then Bed joints ) but your making it work for you.
And work upwards. Rake down, point up.
Really enjoyed the vid. Good to see that you used an SDS hammer drill to remove the old mortar. I’ve seen some ‘restoration experts’ use an angle grinder, resulting in damage to the face of the stone or brickwork where the disc has strayed from the joints.
That's generally my method, I SDS the joints, where they cross in an +, then pick the beds by hand. Works well and reduces damage to the face of the stone.
Sometimes those SDS drills can be brought back with new piston seals and a change of oil, saved my big ol’ Bosch from the scrap heap.
Just a pointer to those thinking of removing cement mortar to go back to lime, which is the correct way to go, I would suggest using a thin diamond cutting disc on an angle grinder to cut a slot in the cement pointing to the depth of the cement pointing. This allows the pointing to be tapped out with a chisel and you don't get damage to the stone edges. Very important on sandstone as using the sds chisel removes the corners of softer stone and rounds them off making the "gap" larger. I also agree with an above comment you work right to left pushing the mortar in hard for RH people.
I disagree with the using an angle grinder, these can equally damage the corners of both stone and brick. A specialist cutter like the arbotech brick and mortar saw is more suitable, shame they are a lot more expensive though!
@@jonathanpounds7143 Jonathan you use a diamond cutting disc, a thin one and you slice down the middle of the cement not touching the stone, it's an easy cut but you don't touch the stone. After you just tap the cement with a hand chisel and the remaining cement "falls" off the stone without belting it. This is the least damaging on the stone you are trying to preserve and restore. It is also quick.
@@jonathanpounds7143 on brick i use a mortar rake wich is c. 5mm thick and a diamond type disc. Yes you keep it off the brick but once at depth it's easy to guide, I use a cover with a vacuum attachment to suck the dust away it's only plastic but works well a metal one is pricey.
@@jonathanpounds7143 I have come across other people also recommending the Arbortech masonry saw for this sort of raking work. Are there any other brands that do this type of tool? Seems like Arbortech has cornered the market, the price certainly reflects that...
Hi Dave, is type N mortar with cement really that bad on a stone foundation above grade? Don't you think if they had it in 1890 they would have used it? Whats your thoughts?Why do they use it on newer buildings now when similar stone is laid.Thx,Charlie
Looks beautiful
Good videos keep up the good work
Lovely. really enjoying this series
Fantastic work it's great that your doing it all old school
You are supposed to strike with the brush (per widespread UK traditional method). Lime mortar always has a lot of shrinkage and needs to be compressed.
As said above! Leaving it to dry so it has a leathery texture and then beating it with a churn brush will compact the lime and also bring the grain out and will result in a better finish! But none the less good job!
New follower, love the video. Shows how time consuming repointing is... But also that it is doable even (I hope) for me.
I hope that the links you have offer you a bit from, I ordered 2 of the pointing tools via your link
Nice work Tim, really enjoy watching the progress, patience and skill that you show. Keep going 👍🏻
Could you apply the initial layer with a grout bag and then press into the joint with the tool?
Hello
Great video, hard work and beautiful result
Wanted to ask, in your opinion is possible to use cement (for better setting) with hydrated lime and sand (0,5:1:5 ratio) for rendering a brick wall layed with lime mortar, as it is quite difficult to find hydraulic lime in our region?
Or even small amounts of cement will trap moisture, make wall unbreathable and ruin the bricks?
Thank you
Great job, work does you great credit.
Looking good mate , get your sen a proper hand board or little pointing hod.
Point on to what’s already there so back on your self if that makes sense .
Start higher up if it’s warmer and you need to re soak the wall then you won’t damage what you’ve just done .
Looks great and good to see use of the lime mortar .
Really nice job
Suggest you get a churn brush to finish it with. Also worth having some vinegar eye wash with you or the proper eye wash. Don’t use water if the lime gets in your eyes.
I’ve been wanting to use lime since attending a SPAB day a few years back, this has inspired me
Sad news about the drill though, wounded in action :(
Well done for having a go
Lime pointing is a mind field people will say do it this way or that way
Use this lime not that lime
So well done
All I will say is people think cold weather is a bad time but you will get a slow set 1mm a month
But not many will say don't do it in full sun in the summer that's a terrible time to do it so
Keep up the good work
This is quite true, everyone says their way is the best way, me included really. The one that gets me though is all the experts who say the mix must be like this, like that etc etc etc, the reality is, the old boys who used to do it mixed whatever they felt like with lime, whatever was cheap or free and close by. This summer I repointed the gable of a 350 year old cottage, there was large areas pointed up with lime and what can only be ash and debris from the fire place. Was very stable too. Lots of local buildings have lime mixed with the slag from local metal works, black lime is the result. Looks ok, but doing any work on the inside of these properties, drilling walls for example, is an unpleasant business.
That Titan drill owes you nothing. It’s been a seriously good drill for you since nearly the start I think. Just proves you don’t need to spend crazy money. Great job on the house Tim 👍🏻
Perfect drill for a DIYer, however a professional using that drill every day would want something much more robust. Machinemart has what you need!
I'm a big fan of compressed air tools. Rugged, and the air itself often does the job. Need face protection though.
very impressive ..... great results
Would you ever use a primer in the joints before applying lime render?
Good job, well done!
Good to see that dodgey Cement GO!! :-)
I was taught to wet the joint prior to pointing. Looks great 👍
Yes all showered down well first. 👍
Amazing job great finish, Just saw on the video that your slates on the edge are moving quite a lot in the wind, hope that won't be a problem in the future
Rae S hope not!! Can only assume camera movement because they are pretty much locked down. 👍
Looking great 👍
wow what a tedious job...takes a certain kinda person for this! nice job!
I would be very interested to know where you got the Lime mortar from in Somerset, please advise, thanks
Link in the description. 👍
I have heard the lime mortar referred to as Lime Putty, not sure if they are the same but the stuff you had in your hand after mixing seemed putty like?
November for lime work, you know it can't drop below 5 deg or it will fuck up the lime for months
What SDS chisel bit are you using there, a flat chisel or more of a point/spike chisel?
Bloody good job well done, puts most so called professionals to shame
Excellent thanks for sharing.
Made a nice job that hammer drill. And no dust win win 👍👍👍👍👌👌
Love the vids mark 👍🏻
@@skaterguy52 👍👍👍
Looking great so far fella, are you going to clean the stonework around the windows?
if you are right handed start from the right hand side so you are pushing it against itself you will find it easier and quicker
Where are you getting your lime from ?
Nice looking job 👍🏿
But I guess everybody's 25mm is different.
Sorry if I'm being a bit dim, is this lime putty being used, as no water needs to be added. Therefore not hydraulic? I need to point my whole 1895ish house, and I think I want putty, but I'm not completely sure why..
Does the same technique and material applies to old clay bricks?
Great job. Do all these projects cause you any stress? I’m in a similar situation and the thought of all the projects I need to complete is sometimes overwhelming.
would all houses have lime mortar if built back in the 1890s. Our house has red brick and was built back then and I need to do a small repair on a lose brick. I suppose I need to figure out if its been redone with cement at some point as well.
Yes it would have been built and pointed with lime as cement was unusual in house building even as late as the 1930's. Cement started to pick up particularly in general building after WWII as it was the new thing and was faster if not better for the buildings.
Might find it easy to apply the pointing against the bit you have already filled.
Looks good
Bit risky lime in November. Did you have any frost?
Is there anyway that you could give my personal advice on a house project that I have to do that requires this kind of job.? I have no experience but my uncle told me that it’s really easy.
what type of stone is this?
Where do you get the energy from?
Are the pre-mix bags expensive? def takes all’s the head scratching and worry out of mixing line up. Looks a lovely mix/batch.
About £8 a bag if you can collect. Great stuff
for lime mortar you need some soft sand in the mix with sharp sand for those looking to do it. I use NHL5 plus 10% white Portland cement 3 parts sharp sand and 1 part soft sand I also add some pozzolan. Also Very Very important you must wet the old pointing before puting the new on top the old mortar needs to be damp. I am on west coast of Scotland so suffer hard winters thus the formula and method above. You have to tidy up pointing same day as cement will accelerate the hardening.
Absolutely not, NEVER EVER add cement to lime mortar and for most applications NHL 5 is highly inappropriate. Chimneys very possibly NHL 5 but for most other applications it will be far too hard. NHL 3.5 or 2 are options if exposed but otherwise a lime putty is the best option.
@@tomgargrave6032 historic Scotland used to recommend a formula with cement then changed. I have used this formula and it is holding up way better than my neighbours that had traditionalists come repoint their sandstone walls. So I would strongly disagree with you as it's working very well here on the west coast of Scotland with an exposed west facing wall 12m tall 1km for the shore. I suspect the tradionalists will be back repointing my neighbours gable wall, that is not exposed like mine, in a few years as it is failing already after 2 winters. Both houses were done at the same time so a very good comparison.
Tom an NHL 2 would last one winter here in Scotland NHL 3.5 might last 3 or 4 years. . I have used 3.5 but prefer the 5 it holds up better. Soft lime mortar may be fine in old poorly structured walls that move. I find the tradionalists very peculiar in their protestations. I have experimented and observed performance and my formula works very well as the exposed wall has not loaded up with water as much in winter since being redone and I see a very good evaporation pattern on the stone and mortar when dry days appear in winter after storms I am not a trained mason but I am a petroleum engineer that has studied sandstone properties and fluid movement in them so I start from a position of some insight to fluid in stone and it's mechanical properties. If I had walls that moved I might agree but this house is 125 years old and if movement and hardness was a problem I would have seen that evidenced in fractures in the cement pointing I removed. No fractured cement but water evaporation issues remedied with the nhl5 plus cement recipe I used on my pointing. I will he putting up a RUclips channel at some point with the evidence and demonstration of performance versus my neighbour that handsomely paid a local celebrity company to come do what I consider a bodge job, they also used an sds chisel to gouge out a cement pointing and damaged the edge of the sandstone. It had been ok for 125 years until a tradionalists expert turned up... They should have cut it with a thin diamond disc first as I did. my advice to anyone is experiment and think for yourself like the restoration couple do, don't be fooled by tradesmen claiming expert insight when these things are straightforward to figure out especially when you have channels like this one and people that actually think.
@@daveramsay8598 Sorry Dave but what you are advocating, soft sand and the addition of cement in a lime mortar is wrong. If you are in an extremely exposed area, which no one could argue the west coast of Scotland is not ! Then a NHl 5 on the gable ends/chinmeys ext is fine. For the vast bulk of old houses not on the west coast of Scotland a NHL 5 will be far too strong and the addition of cement will make the mix non breathable and far too strong as the ratios of sand for a lime mix. 1:2 would mean you have almost 1:1 sand cement. Some of the world oldest building are constructed using lime putty, still standing today ! yes, you are absolutely right to cut a cement joint in the middle first and then break it inwards rather than try and take it out whole.
@@tomgargrave6032 Tom define breathable. I think what you are trying to elude to is the property called permeability. It is a property that requires porosity in a medium to exist. It is measured using Darcys law.I You are implying any addition of cement creates zero permeability. It is the case that a cement slurry can be made to have almost no porosity or permeability and this is achieved with G class cement used to cement metal casing in oil and gas wells sometimes down to 3 or 4 miles below the surface to eliminate the migratikn of high pressure gas. Adding 10% volume of cement to a lime mortar mix DOES NOT destroy porosity or permeability. It will reduce it marginally but not enough to remove the desired property of permeability to water to allow the mortar to draw moisture from the sandstone through capillary action and evaporation to facilitate the drying cycle of the stone mortar matrix in a wall. I have observed and tested this with a moisture meter in my walls the mortar IS permeable. I have also extensively tested sandstone from north sea gas wells and oil wells using mini permeameters to directly measure permeability in rock. I have measured the performance of what I have done it works just fine no loss is permeability have yoh actually tested what you say? 100% cement mortar will be very low permeability not zero though but close enough. If a person wants to determine what permeability is just put yournpuckered lips to a sandstone and blow, you will be able to blow into a stone that has permeability probably not a tight sandstone but most buildings you will be able to. Trying on the mortar will alsomindicate permeability tonnes- If It takes gas from your lips it will take water. I 've done this to make sure what iwas doing would work because don't want yo Donne job twice.
YES walls with lime putty and lime mortar are still standing after centuries , that said my walls have some of the mortar no powdery in the middle as is often the case in these houses. I have repointed walls inside and out where needed to restore them. At 2 feet thick the walls are fine repoited good for another century.
If you have experimented and tried different formulas I would be interested to know the actual results and measurements/ evidence, untested opinion I have heard many times. I do know there is difference of opinion amongst masons when I have watched a highly regarded local firm do a job thats already failing and they went traditional on their pointing job, fortunately my neighbour is not short of a bob or two.
Looks amazing. Great video on something that isn't often well covered. As others have said, lime mortar needs more coverage. You'd think it is witchcraft..
Nice video. Thanks for posting.
It's amazing how many 'professional' builders have fleeced homeowners by pointing over lime with OPC. I was looking at some houses in East Anglia where some genius had pointed Victorian soft redbrick houses with OPC and caused the brick faces to delaminate as a result. It took thousands off the value of the properties. Such a shame, and so avoidable.
What is the name of the tool you are using to push the mortar into the joints? Would like to get one for my walls
Ragni R314 Trowel and Square Small Tool 1/2in
Beautiful. . . .
Oh my god ,I have a new found respect for people who do that for a job . How mind numbing is that
its very satisfying at the same time. how many office jobs can you step back and admire your beautiful work?
Did you insulate the internal wall and if you did, what type of insulation did you use. As you know stone walls, need to breathe
No. Only internal wall insulation of any form was a lime hemp plaster we used on the ground floor but no wood boards or breathable insulation’s used as we put our insulation efforts in to roof, floor and draft proofing.
@@TheRestorationCouplelime hemp plaster on the floor!? How is it doing so far? I have a stone foundation and its pretty wet and damp usually..how can I remediate this? The floorboards to the first floor are pine. Floor boards..and have gaps in between... I see strips of wood on the other gaps..but how was this done? Shave a small piece little by little? And ...could I ..should I? Insulate the bottom of the first floorboards with hemp lime plaster?
Highly appreciate it, if you could reply.. thank you
Another great video. Would it not be better to use one of those repointing gun things that look like an over sized caulking gun that they sell at Screwfix, Toolstation or machine mart.
How long will that mortar last inside the bag I’ve never seen something like?
Should last for years
If it is a pure lime mix as long as you keep it damp and airtight, almost indefinitely. Once it has been opened keep the remainder packed down in a bucket with lid and little water covering the surface. Tip the water off before you knock it up to a sticky consistency (you don't want it too wet). If it has a pozzolan already mixed in or it is a hydraulic lime mix you don't have as long as the pozzolan induces a chemical set (rather than a set by absorbing CO2 for pure lime). The early chemical set protects the surface a bit when working this late in the year but frost can still damage it as already mentioned until it has properly carbonated.
If it was me I'd invest in a mini plastic hawk or a plasterers hawk for holding the lime, saves a lot of wastage
Hope it's a hot lime mortar your using
Really cool job, well it is November! Take a look at Mike Eye on RUclips, I found it helpful in understanding lime mortar and the reason for potsolan. Hope this helps. Great work!
What would happen if you had just knocked off the concrete pointing without replacing with lime?
Thanks for the really useful videos on this and all the helpful links.
Looking good! Did an internal chimney breast exactly like this earlier in the year and now it's fully cured it looks great.
Are those the new Isotunes ear defenders you're wearing at the end? Would love to get your thoughts on them - considering putting them on my Christmas list!
When you point, pull towards your work, not away from it.
I prefer to see lime mortar made up on site as then you are likely to get the local matching sand that then colours the job. Bagged lime mortar whilst convenient, is not guaranteed to match the stone or previous mortar.
Historically people would have used whatever they had access to. So they weren’t that fussy.
@@jameswatkins2596 Precisely, the local sand was always used because it was convenient. In our modern global world it can be just as cheap to source some building products from far afield. Interestingly, when I was the Architect on Coombe Abbey (a Grade 1 listed building) we had to source the sand from a quarry more than 40 miles away to get a match because over the years the local quarries had migrated away from the original pits and the sand constituents and colour had changed measurably.
That is a lot of pointing. A hawk and a couple of tuc pointers to suit the size of the joints. Rub it up with a old towel
That’s going to take forever