A Yorkshireman with dreadlocks wearing a leather kilt lime pointing an ancient millworkers’ cottage. There’s nothing right in that sentence yet the video had me enthralled for every single second. Bloody fabulous 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
That's probably as many times as I can watch the video in a bid to put off back pointing a section of my house! Super informative thanks, and only now do I dare even attempt this!
I've been wondering who you remind me of, so I closed my eyes and listened - I have it! "If you make one mistake, it's half a day out with the undertaker.“ You are sir, the Fred Dibnah of Lime Work.
Thank you for the videos, I have a 220 year old cottage and steading near Dunkeld in Scotland that has cement pointing. That is my challenge for next year.
Great video. Thanks so much. Question from me. I am planning to use some small sandstones as part of a repointing project. Do I need to wash/clean them first and what is the best way to do this? All the best...
Cheers @AspectRampage. If you are to use stones from round about site, you would be best to ensure that there is no soil on them first. Soil will create air pockets between the mortar and stone as it contracts which could blow the mortar if the soil or entrained moisture freezes.
Hi, the bit where you scratch back the back pointing, I have copied you on an internal wall around a fireplace. As its inside, I am spraying it with water. Should I still scrape back even though I don't appear to have any 'snots'? Also, is it important to do this the day after, or can I do it just before finish pointing? Great videos BTW.
Hi there. Whether inside or out, the backpointing should, in my opinion be scraped back. When it is scraped back, the fat is removed from the surface of the backpointing. This scraping off leaves a textured finish, ready to key to the finish pointing. You can leave the backpointing for a couple of days before finish pointing to get to that green hard set. The longer left the better to be honest.
Hi, thanks for your comment. The leaky gutter on this dwelling caused damp ingress through the wall in the top bedroom. Since fixing the leak, the wall has dried out. This may be due to a combination of the gutter not leaking anymore and the lime pointing allowing moisture trapped in the stone skin to egress the property.
@dportercontracting9974 lots of stone built terrace houses here in Abergavenny. I'm a structural engineer and often do house surveys and find so many houses with cement pointing over the lime mortar. I've also been doing some Internet research and whereas many people say blithely that gypsum plaster doesn't allow a wall to breathe is simply not true. What is the killer is using modern emulsion paints.
Thanks for the props! It depends on many variants as to whether you use hydrated or hydraulic lime. Hydrated lime has the addition of argillaceous clays which add to the weather repellency of the cured mortar but slightly reduce the breathability of the cured mortar. Hydraulic limes such as lime putty have the reverse performance and are more suitable for use as a constructional mortar component.
@@dportercontracting9974 thanks for taking the time to explain. I watched your video then repointed my 1902 Victorian place and used hydrated from googles advice before I found you here. Hopefully it will be OK. I was having damp issues inside and some cowboy had semi repointed using sand and cement. Its an west facing wall and gets a lot of weather on it. Hopefully it'll cure the damp now its done IF I used the right lime 😆 Cheers bud.
@@worthingrentals5944 the lime putty mortar will definitely perform better than any cementitious mortar as long as there is some prolonged dry spells at some point throughout the year. Top work on addressing the issue yourself. Are you pleased with the result aesthetically?
@@dportercontracting9974 OK nice to know. Looks wise I can definitely say it's an acquired skill, I used the right tools just the gap between the wall and the adjacent wall was around 1m narrowing to 0cm so it made things super difficult. No builder would do it, got 3 guys round but all were too chunky to fit so none would quote. You can't really see the finished job due to where the adjacent wall is which is lucky as its not terrible but I definitely wouldn't want that look for the front of the property! Haha
@@dportercontracting9974 Thank you. I have a 200 year old cottage near Dunkeld in Scotland that is pointed in cement. Having watched your videos repeatedly I am going to make a start in spring. It is a pity you don’t run classes / workshops. I am sure loads of people would pay for a day’s tuition. Look after yourself . Jason
@@MargotCottam Hi Margot, I'm afraid I'm not taking on any more work currently as I'm booked up for the next couple of years with the work schedule I have in front of me already.
Looks more like an earth lime mortar than an ash lime mortar. Also, arent you pointing way too deep in one go? Isnt the rule no more than 20mm depth at a time.
@@dportercontracting9974 fair point and my fault for not watching further on. I've got ash mortar on my house but it's rock solid, almost stone like. I also have earth mortar and it's pretty much soil. Interesting these old houses
@@hugh3sy7 They sure are interesting when you scratch the surface and see how the various tradesmen through the story of the structure performed their craft. Good luck with your renovation!👍
@@hugh3sy7 when we dug out the old cess pit in my garden we had a heap of horrible yellow clay for a few days, before the new clargester went in. Fast forward a few years and for the past two weeks I've been breaking out the old render and pointing ready for re-pointing the walls of the house and guess what...they used that same horrible old yellow clay to bind the stone together, over 400 years ago.
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A Yorkshireman with dreadlocks wearing a leather kilt lime pointing an ancient millworkers’ cottage. There’s nothing right in that sentence yet the video had me enthralled for every single second. Bloody fabulous 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks Danny. Watched the videos. Bought the stuff. Now just need the courage to start.
You are amazing, a pleasure to hear your knowledge and watch your skilled work. I am going to learn.on a 15c.house😮
That's probably as many times as I can watch the video in a bid to put off back pointing a section of my house! Super informative thanks, and only now do I dare even attempt this!
DITTO!
I've made a start, at last. You DO get more confident in a couple of hours
Dude you gave me the confidence to do my own cottage repoint and render, you’ve a great skill at presenting too boot, cheers dude
I've been wondering who you remind me of, so I closed my eyes and listened - I have it! "If you make one mistake, it's half a day out with the undertaker.“
You are sir, the Fred Dibnah of Lime Work.
Thank you for the videos, I have a 220 year old cottage and steading near Dunkeld in Scotland that has cement pointing. That is my challenge for next year.
A beautiful 200 year old cottage, great pointing, shame they have plastic windows!
And that bloody awful front door! Why? Just why?
Oooo, lovely! A feature length production! 😁
What a great video, very informative, thank you for posting.🍷🍷
Mate, you're back!
👍❤️
Great video. Thanks so much. Question from me. I am planning to use some small sandstones as part of a repointing project. Do I need to wash/clean them first and what is the best way to do this? All the best...
Cheers @AspectRampage.
If you are to use stones from round about site, you would be best to ensure that there is no soil on them first. Soil will create air pockets between the mortar and stone as it contracts which could blow the mortar if the soil or entrained moisture freezes.
Hi, the bit where you scratch back the back pointing, I have copied you on an internal wall around a fireplace. As its inside, I am spraying it with water. Should I still scrape back even though I don't appear to have any 'snots'? Also, is it important to do this the day after, or can I do it just before finish pointing?
Great videos BTW.
Hi there. Whether inside or out, the backpointing should, in my opinion be scraped back. When it is scraped back, the fat is removed from the surface of the backpointing. This scraping off leaves a textured finish, ready to key to the finish pointing. You can leave the backpointing for a couple of days before finish pointing to get to that green hard set. The longer left the better to be honest.
It's not a hod!. It's a hawk!..
Thanks for your opinion. Did you enjoy the video?
was there any damp internally and if so, has it helped the internal damp all your work externally?
Hi, thanks for your comment. The leaky gutter on this dwelling caused damp ingress through the wall in the top bedroom. Since fixing the leak, the wall has dried out. This may be due to a combination of the gutter not leaking anymore and the lime pointing allowing moisture trapped in the stone skin to egress the property.
@dportercontracting9974 lots of stone built terrace houses here in Abergavenny. I'm a structural engineer and often do house surveys and find so many houses with cement pointing over the lime mortar. I've also been doing some Internet research and whereas many people say blithely that gypsum plaster doesn't allow a wall to breathe is simply not true. What is the killer is using modern emulsion paints.
Great video. One question, hydrated or hydraulic lime?
Thanks for the props! It depends on many variants as to whether you use hydrated or hydraulic lime. Hydrated lime has the addition of argillaceous clays which add to the weather repellency of the cured mortar but slightly reduce the breathability of the cured mortar. Hydraulic limes such as lime putty have the reverse performance and are more suitable for use as a constructional mortar component.
@@dportercontracting9974 thanks for taking the time to explain. I watched your video then repointed my 1902 Victorian place and used hydrated from googles advice before I found you here. Hopefully it will be OK. I was having damp issues inside and some cowboy had semi repointed using sand and cement. Its an west facing wall and gets a lot of weather on it. Hopefully it'll cure the damp now its done IF I used the right lime 😆
Cheers bud.
@@worthingrentals5944 the lime putty mortar will definitely perform better than any cementitious mortar as long as there is some prolonged dry spells at some point throughout the year. Top work on addressing the issue yourself. Are you pleased with the result aesthetically?
@@dportercontracting9974 OK nice to know. Looks wise I can definitely say it's an acquired skill, I used the right tools just the gap between the wall and the adjacent wall was around 1m narrowing to 0cm so it made things super difficult. No builder would do it, got 3 guys round but all were too chunky to fit so none would quote. You can't really see the finished job due to where the adjacent wall is which is lucky as its not terrible but I definitely wouldn't want that look for the front of the property! Haha
Can I ask how you it took you to complete the whole project? Assuming you did the whole house.
This was around ten days or so from start to finish. It's around double the time with lime compared to a cementitious repoint.
@@dportercontracting9974 Thank you. I have a 200 year old cottage near Dunkeld in Scotland that is pointed in cement. Having watched your videos repeatedly I am going to make a start in spring. It is a pity you don’t run classes / workshops. I am sure loads of people would pay for a day’s tuition. Look after yourself . Jason
How do I contact you to get a price for a job. Cannot find your website
@@MargotCottam Hi Margot, I'm afraid I'm not taking on any more work currently as I'm booked up for the next couple of years with the work schedule I have in front of me already.
Looks more like an earth lime mortar than an ash lime mortar.
Also, arent you pointing way too deep in one go? Isnt the rule no more than 20mm depth at a time.
Definitely an ash lime mortar matey. This is my full time job..
If you watch the video to the end you'll see what's going on here.
@@dportercontracting9974 fair point and my fault for not watching further on. I've got ash mortar on my house but it's rock solid, almost stone like. I also have earth mortar and it's pretty much soil. Interesting these old houses
@@hugh3sy7
They sure are interesting when you scratch the surface and see how the various tradesmen through the story of the structure performed their craft. Good luck with your renovation!👍
@@hugh3sy7 when we dug out the old cess pit in my garden we had a heap of horrible yellow clay for a few days, before the new clargester went in.
Fast forward a few years and for the past two weeks I've been breaking out the old render and pointing ready for re-pointing the walls of the house and guess what...they used that same horrible old yellow clay to bind the stone together, over 400 years ago.