So informative. Love to see someone who appreciates the history of a building and knows how to preserve it. Unfortunately where I am, in the competition between preservation expense and knocking down and rebuilding, the new building usually wins.
If you start a course on lime, I’ll be the first one to book the course, amazing content, detailed explanations on lime and how to point, keep going you are doing a fantastic job, I have acquired so much knowledge by just watching your vlogs🫶
Yo porter I've just watched part 1&2 and I have to commend you on the choice of the bigger aggregate, it became quite evident when you beat it back and gave it a final rub. It almost seems a shame to lime wash over it. Job well done fella 👍
How come in your last mix video you used nhl 5 and added Granite dust but changed for this job? Is it because of the type of stone and salt in the air?
Good question @Aquilla86. In this video, the walls were laden with moisture to the point where the mix had turned to a soil like substance. I believe that the 3.5 would expel the moisture over time and the addition of the course, large aggregate granite would stop the sea fret and salt. Each job requires a different outcome and the mix can be adjusted accordingly. Hope this helps?
@@LisaCottrell-r3j Hairline cracks can be normal when you haven't sprayed down the curing mortar as often as required. When you scrape the green hard mortar off and tamp the mortar back, they disappear. The cracks only run into the fat of the curing mortar, if it has been applied suitably. Keep the mortar covered with the damp hessian after you have tamped it back for a week and all will be grand!
Wonderful video. I am pointing my limestone foundation here in Northern Missouri(USA). The house was built mid 1800's. The joints are large, so would you suggest increasing the size of the agragate? Or, at least adding a larger agrate to my sand? I am using river sand at this point. Seems to be ok. My formulation is 4 lime(hydrated), 6 sand, and 1 white portland. John in Bethel, Missouri. USA.
Hi John. If you increase the size of the stone used and do the pointing in two applications, it will be ideal for pointing up your foundation lift. A backpointing mix first with bigger stone aggregate in the mix, then a finish pointing application with smaller stone. As regarding the constituents of the mortar, the back pointing mix can be a bit weaker than the finish mortar. 4 lime, 8 sharp sand and 2x 20-30mm aggregate. The finish mortar can be 4 lime, 8 sharp sand and 1 6-10mm aggregate. With some careful application, no cement is required. If you add cement to the mix, the stonework won't lock moisture into the structure. Had a look at Bethel, Missouri and it looks like an old wild west town. Is the nearby Salem the one where the witch trials were?
Thanks for all the tutorials they’ve helped a lot on my own renovation in Caithness How far north do you travel as I’ve another1800s gate house in the pipeline also in Caithness
Not a problem in the slightest matey. Glad you found them of use on your projects. We are back up on the West Coast in September and a couple more times before the end of the year. Caithness would be a tad too far for me to travel for work as I've plenty booked up a couple of years ahead of me anyways. It would be fascinating to see your renovation of the project though!
@@dportercontracting9974 youtube.com/@ourunlimitedchoices Here’s our renovation channel if your interested We are renovating a former mill/smiddy the roof alone is 300m2 so it’s been a challenge no help up here either ha ha
@@dportercontracting9974 Wow booked up for a couple of years?! That just goes to show what a skilled craftsman you are. I was going to ask if you are available for work in North Wales.....your comment has answered my question without asking! Keep uploading the videos, great content.
Glad you enjoyed it FranLuckyflute! I'm afraid I don't work in Cornwall. Hoping to visit next year but not for work. Have a bash yourself at 6our engine house. You'll adore the process and finished article.
Ive just finished lime pointing my gable wall. First time lime pointing for me. I was recommended Easy Fast NHL5 applied with Masons Mortar drill hod. It s a coarse aggregate for bigger holes. For your time sensitive job that may have been an idea
Is there any instance where you would add a little bit of cement to a lime mortar to add more strength? I need to repair my brick courtyard wall. Part needs rebuilding and most of it needs repointing. Lime was used originally to build the wall. The top bricks were loose- probably due to the Ivy that has been removed now. I have got NHL 3.5 Lime but think I should have got 5? Will adding a little cement work and make up that difference? Would appreciate any advice. Kind regards Alison
Hi Alison. The only instance where cement would be added to a mix is where a bedding mortar such as placing copings on a wall top is being used. Lime in its technical set provides a moderately strong mortar. A lime mortar provides a cushion to the substrates used in the wall to allow for a degree of movement in the structure over time. If a stronger mix ie hard cement is used then cracks in the joints will appear over time. NHL 5 can be used on engineering projects or chimney stacks where constant, hard weather is experienced by the substrate.
Thanks 👍🏼that’s really helpful advice. I’ve got NHL 3.5 for the wall- will that suffice? It’s only 2 meters high but it is exposed and the capping will only be a rowlock course? Also- I will eventually be building a glass bottle brick wall for the backrest of my ‘L’ shaped seating area. Which lime is best to use for that and would you add any additives to it? It needs to be flexible as the bottles will heat up and expand. I would want to reduce the risk of bottles breaking? Thanks. Alison
@@alisondowell2999 The 3.5 will be fine and dandy for a repoint. For a constructional mortar, I'd add a splash more mortar to make a creamier mix to bed your substrate onto. For bedding the glass bottles into the wall, a lime putty /sharp sand mix would be perfect as it allows for more movement on the bed with the expansion/contraction of the sunlight through the glass. It will act like a cushion around the glass instead of a harder mix that would be more prone to cracking.
I really appreciate your advice. I've asked so many other Tradesmen about the glass bottles and they haven't a clue! I feel confident enough to get the job now 👍 Thanks for replying 🙂
Hi, finally getting round to actually rebuilding my courtyard wall today! For a constructional mortar, what ingredient ratio would you use please? Of NHL lime, granite dust, sharp sand??
![[BLACKSWAN] ‘Roll Up’ Official Music Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ulvCwyKrwqw/mqdefault.jpg)
So informative. Love to see someone who appreciates the history of a building and knows how to preserve it.
Unfortunately where I am, in the competition between preservation expense and knocking down and rebuilding, the new building usually wins.
If you start a course on lime, I’ll be the first one to book the course, amazing content, detailed explanations on lime and how to point, keep going you are doing a fantastic job, I have acquired so much knowledge by just watching your vlogs🫶
Probably the best explanation and example of lime pointing in Scotland a great upload covers everything needed for the job thanks for the uploads 😊
You're making great video content my friend! You are a very knowledgeable and informative chap. You deserve a much bigger audience. 👍
Thanks for the kind words my friend!
As long as the videos are useful to those who have a forthcoming project in mind, I'm happy.
Can't thank you enough for your videos. You've been quite the saviour!! God speed with your work and God bless!
Very nice job indeed 👋. Very informative. You've given me the confidence to re-point the south facing wall on my granite property now 👍
Yo porter I've just watched part 1&2 and I have to commend you on the choice of the bigger aggregate, it became quite evident when you beat it back and gave it a final rub. It almost seems a shame to lime wash over it. Job well done fella 👍
Absolutely beautiful work 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great place to work and good on you !!
Very informative thank you!
Quality craftmanship
👌🏻 lovely
Great vids love watching them ,Time to get them Dreads of ol lad..
Thanks for your opinion.
I think "off" is the the idiom that you were looking for.
@@dportercontracting9974 That is the idiom,thank you .
@@dportercontracting9974 You leave them dreds where they are.
Great video, a lot of knowledge.
Is it practice gained or you have studied this masonry?
Many thanks for the comment.
My experience has been gathered from my own work and many hours of reading many various classic books on the subject.
How come in your last mix video you used nhl 5 and added Granite dust but changed for this job? Is it because of the type of stone and salt in the air?
Good question @Aquilla86. In this video, the walls were laden with moisture to the point where the mix had turned to a soil like substance. I believe that the 3.5 would expel the moisture over time and the addition of the course, large aggregate granite would stop the sea fret and salt. Each job requires a different outcome and the mix can be adjusted accordingly. Hope this helps?
I like your pointing hawk, with the angled handle. Who makes those? Are they sold online?
They are made by a company called Kubala and are available on Amazon and eBay over in the UK.
great explanation . whats the name of the tool that holds the morter ?
Cheers matey. The tool I use is called "The Pointmaster." You can pick them up on Amazon or eBay.
what can you do if you do get hairline cracks? can you mist it and scrap back?
@@LisaCottrell-r3j Hairline cracks can be normal when you haven't sprayed down the curing mortar as often as required. When you scrape the green hard mortar off and tamp the mortar back, they disappear.
The cracks only run into the fat of the curing mortar, if it has been applied suitably.
Keep the mortar covered with the damp hessian after you have tamped it back for a week and all will be grand!
Wonderful video. I am pointing my limestone foundation here in Northern Missouri(USA). The house was built mid 1800's. The joints are large, so would you suggest increasing the size of the agragate? Or, at least adding a larger agrate to my sand? I am using river sand at this point. Seems to be ok. My formulation is 4 lime(hydrated), 6 sand, and 1 white portland.
John in Bethel, Missouri. USA.
Hi John. If you increase the size of the stone used and do the pointing in two applications, it will be ideal for pointing up your foundation lift. A backpointing mix first with bigger stone aggregate in the mix, then a finish pointing application with smaller stone.
As regarding the constituents of the mortar, the back pointing mix can be a bit weaker than the finish mortar. 4 lime, 8 sharp sand and 2x 20-30mm aggregate. The finish mortar can be 4 lime, 8 sharp sand and 1 6-10mm aggregate. With some careful application, no cement is required. If you add cement to the mix, the stonework won't lock moisture into the structure.
Had a look at Bethel, Missouri and it looks like an old wild west town. Is the nearby Salem the one where the witch trials were?
Thanks for all the tutorials they’ve helped a lot on my own renovation in Caithness
How far north do you travel as I’ve another1800s gate house in the pipeline also in Caithness
Not a problem in the slightest matey. Glad you found them of use on your projects. We are back up on the West Coast in September and a couple more times before the end of the year. Caithness would be a tad too far for me to travel for work as I've plenty booked up a couple of years ahead of me anyways.
It would be fascinating to see your renovation of the project though!
@@dportercontracting9974
youtube.com/@ourunlimitedchoices
Here’s our renovation channel if your interested
We are renovating a former mill/smiddy the roof alone is 300m2 so it’s been a challenge no help up here either ha ha
@@dportercontracting9974 Wow booked up for a couple of years?! That just goes to show what a skilled craftsman you are. I was going to ask if you are available for work in North Wales.....your comment has answered my question without asking! Keep uploading the videos, great content.
That was amazingly interesting. Do you ever work in Cornwall ? I have an Historical Engine House that needs repointing ?
Glad you enjoyed it FranLuckyflute!
I'm afraid I don't work in Cornwall. Hoping to visit next year but not for work. Have a bash yourself at 6our engine house. You'll adore the process and finished article.
Ive just finished lime pointing my gable wall. First time lime pointing for me. I was recommended Easy Fast NHL5 applied with Masons Mortar drill hod. It s a coarse aggregate for bigger holes. For your time sensitive job that may have been an idea
Is there any instance where you would add a little bit of cement to a lime mortar to add more strength? I need to repair my brick courtyard wall. Part needs rebuilding and most of it needs repointing. Lime was used originally to build the wall. The top bricks were loose- probably due to the Ivy that has been removed now. I have got NHL 3.5 Lime but think I should have got 5? Will adding a little cement work and make up that difference? Would appreciate any advice.
Kind regards
Alison
Hi Alison. The only instance where cement would be added to a mix is where a bedding mortar such as placing copings on a wall top is being used. Lime in its technical set provides a moderately strong mortar.
A lime mortar provides a cushion to the substrates used in the wall to allow for a degree of movement in the structure over time. If a stronger mix ie hard cement is used then cracks in the joints will appear over time.
NHL 5 can be used on engineering projects or chimney stacks where constant, hard weather is experienced by the substrate.
Thanks 👍🏼that’s really helpful advice. I’ve got NHL 3.5 for the wall- will that suffice? It’s only 2 meters high but it is exposed and the capping will only be a rowlock course?
Also- I will eventually be building a glass bottle brick wall for the backrest of my ‘L’ shaped seating area. Which lime is best to use for that and would you add any additives to it? It needs to be flexible as the bottles will heat up and expand. I would want to reduce the risk of bottles breaking? Thanks. Alison
@@alisondowell2999 The 3.5 will be fine and dandy for a repoint. For a constructional mortar, I'd add a splash more mortar to make a creamier mix to bed your substrate onto.
For bedding the glass bottles into the wall, a lime putty /sharp sand mix would be perfect as it allows for more movement on the bed with the expansion/contraction of the sunlight through the glass. It will act like a cushion around the glass instead of a harder mix that would be more prone to cracking.
I really appreciate your advice. I've asked so many other Tradesmen about the glass bottles and they haven't a clue! I feel confident enough to get the job now 👍
Thanks for replying 🙂
Hi, finally getting round to actually rebuilding my courtyard wall today! For a constructional mortar, what ingredient ratio would you use please? Of NHL lime, granite dust, sharp sand??
*promo sm* 🌸