I'm currently renovating an old house in Southern Germany. Your videos are giving me the knowledge and confidence to do the job by myself , thereby saving a huge amount of money. It's fun as well as hard work. Most importantly, it's given me an appreciation of the knowledge and skills people like you have. Thanks.
Fantastic videos. Having bought a Welsh stone and lime cottage that has been covered in cement. Inside and out in the 70's. I wish you had been doing the videos 15 years ago. I was searching for advice on YT then and there was nothing.
Outstanding presentation and content. I’m a relative newcomer to lime mortar but I’ll never used concrete again if I can avoid it. Lime mortar has such character, especially when you add something special like decomposed granite to give color and texture to the finished product. Thanks from Australia!
D porter your videos are very interesting , building and tree work, i'm an arborist my self so i've been watching your forestry,tree work. It's good to find someone that actually knows his stuff and to learn from... , so thank you. If you ever need an extra pair of hands with forestry or residential tree work I would be very interested 😁!! , thanks
You are a hero ❤🎉 for owners of old properties. The respectful way you try to understand what the locals dealt with 🙏 bit about how they removed salt from beach sand to put into mix is is superb info! Can we get a video on lime rendering for exterior walls ? I have a project to start and I don’t know whether to repoint before I render with lime,render base coat…
Cheers Robert! Those old properties will be standing for generations to come so it's only fair that we take the time, toil and sweat to ensure their steadfastness for future generations to enjoy and thrive healthily in. Later on this summer there is a project coming up with a large lump of lime rendering from start to finish on so stay tuned my friend.
Hi I've been a pasteter for 44 years when I lime render walls inside or out if the bed and perp joints are badly degraded I rake them out and point them flush It doesn't have to be to pretty I give that about two weeks then I go over it with a lime NHL 1:3 scratch coat with hair or fibers agai I wait another 14 days then give it a final float coat at the same ratio The walls want a good wetting down before and sometimes during between coats Hope this helps I use the same kind of sharp sand for pointing or rendering Good luck oh and don't forget to cover with Hessian
@@richardgrimbleby7853 thank you so much ! Yeah, my first project is exterior lime render. I will take your advice and clean out the joints and repoint before applying the base coat.
Cheers for the props Rhys! Jump on the career change now. You only get one shot at this game.. There is so much demand for lime work so you will defo find a new career in the industry once you get proficient with the mortar.
All good and very informative ,I’m from down south and not sure we get material like your using ,yes we can get the lime but the aggregate we have building sand , washed grit which I supposed it bit like your course material but is grey and wouldn’t give the same finished colour, any advice please
Thanks for the kind words Joe. You can order decent river sands from companies such as limestuff.co.uk to make ideal mixes with. Nothing wrong with making your own course sand mix though with mixing the building sand with the washed grit. Each mix will have a different finish colour to it. I guess that's the joy of lime work, each job is unique and has it's own particular qualities down to the constituents of the mix used.
What an incredible back drop. Stunning location. Just wondered if you considered doing a vid on the application of different lime morters. What idealy would you use hot lime morter for, vs NhL limes etc. I'm confused with a possible up coming project I may or may not undertake with a 1870s brick boundary wall. Any advise would be gratefully received. Thanks. Rob.
Thanks for the positive vibes! I personally don't use hot lime as I get the finish and performance from the mortars I use (predominantly NHL and putty) Whatever you choose to use, steer clear of cement with the renovation of the 1870s property where possible. The dwelling will adore you for it..
Thanks for these videos. I have an old stone block/lime mortar/bathstone house in s wales and this is helping me tackle it myself. Did you have a suggestion for a supplier for NHL 3.5 lime you could suggest?
These videos are great. Thanks so much. What is your opinion of lime products like conserv which are already prepared and you just mix with water? They look easier for folks like me who don't have a cement mixer.
Glad you have found use from them matey! The ready mix mortars are superb quality products. There is no worries about fluffing up a mix if you have sourced the constituents yourself. You can prepare the mortars with a simple bucket of water and a trowel. A piece of plywood and shovel is another way of mixing up. In fact, that's how mortars were mixer before the arrival of the electric mixer..
Thanks so much. As I understand from your videos I need to mix for 45 mins approx. with a ratio of 1:3 with sand based on weight. Sand should be washed fine or grit sand. I am trying to patch up a wall on an old farmhouse on the tops above Todmorden, just down the road from Pendle (in fact you can see Pendle Hill from the house). It’s previously been pointed with cement which is why the mortar is cracking and popping out. I am planning to start with a lower/ground section of the wall as this is one part that needs repointing and it’s my first time doing this sort of thing. Once I get a bit more confident I will do the top of the wall as this will involve going up a ladder or hiring scaffolding. One concern I have is about the weather as it’s been quite cold here recently and we had frost the other day. Is it OK to point now if I cover the work with a cotton or hessian sheet to protect it? Also, I have been recommended lime mortar of 3.5 NHL, but, as I see from your videos, it’s better to use one at 5 NHL for a wall that gets a lot of stick from the weather. Many thanks and apologies for so many questions @@dportercontracting9974
@@bengray8633 The ready mixed stuff you can get from vendors like limestuff.com is already proportioned so it just needs water and a good mixing to get it ready to point up. I'd stay clear of any fine sands in a lime mortar mix. They will cause shrinkage and cracking in your mortar. If you need some scaffolding then give Uprite at Padiham a call. Chris and Declan are great to deal with and very reasonably priced for access solutions. The colder weather of late means it will soon be coming to an end in the north for this pointing season. I'll usually give over when the daytime temperature is 5° or less. This time of year means it is best to double drape the pointing with Hessians to protect it. That 30-60 days after application is vital for a full technical set of the mortar. If you are getting battered by the weather on your aspect of the wall or chimney stack for example, then I'd recommend using a 5. You can't get ready mix in NHL 5 though so would have to mix your mortar by hand.
Thanks so much. Do you know where I can get NHL 5 in or around Burnley? My local supplier is Fielden Factors, but they only have NHL 3.5 and hydrated lime. @@dportercontracting9974
Sorry, another question. Do you have any videos that discuss how to point a wall where there is a gap going all the way through to the space behind it? I presume you need to put in some ballast (chippings or an appropriately sized stone) to fill it. @@dportercontracting9974
![MURDER DRONES Series Finale [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/p6mhC5Iatns/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm currently renovating an old house in Southern Germany. Your videos are giving me the knowledge and confidence to do the job by myself , thereby saving a huge amount of money. It's fun as well as hard work.
Most importantly, it's given me an appreciation of the knowledge and skills people like you have. Thanks.
Fantastic videos. Having bought a Welsh stone and lime cottage that has been covered in cement. Inside and out in the 70's. I wish you had been doing the videos 15 years ago. I was searching for advice on YT then and there was nothing.
Outstanding presentation and content. I’m a relative newcomer to lime mortar but I’ll never used concrete again if I can avoid it. Lime mortar has such character, especially when you add something special like decomposed granite to give color and texture to the finished product. Thanks from Australia!
D porter
your videos are very interesting , building and tree work, i'm an arborist my self so i've been watching your forestry,tree work. It's good to find someone that actually knows his stuff and to learn from... , so thank you.
If you ever need an extra pair of hands with forestry or residential tree work I would be very interested 😁!! , thanks
Good to see you again! Thanks for sharing!
You are a hero ❤🎉 for owners of old properties. The respectful way you try to understand what the locals dealt with 🙏 bit about how they removed salt from beach sand to put into mix is is superb info!
Can we get a video on lime rendering for exterior walls ? I have a project to start and I don’t know whether to repoint before I render with lime,render base coat…
Cheers Robert! Those old properties will be standing for generations to come so it's only fair that we take the time, toil and sweat to ensure their steadfastness for future generations to enjoy and thrive healthily in.
Later on this summer there is a project coming up with a large lump of lime rendering from start to finish on so stay tuned my friend.
Hi I've been a pasteter for 44 years when I lime render walls inside or out if the bed and perp joints are badly degraded I rake them out and point them flush It doesn't have to be to pretty I give that about two weeks then I go over it with a lime NHL 1:3 scratch coat with hair or fibers agai I wait another 14 days then give it a final float coat at the same ratio The walls want a good wetting down before and sometimes during between coats Hope this helps I use the same kind of sharp sand for pointing or rendering Good luck oh and don't forget to cover with Hessian
@@richardgrimbleby7853 thank you so much ! Yeah, my first project is exterior lime render. I will take your advice and clean out the joints and repoint before applying the base coat.
Brilliant these videos pal. Makes me want a career change.
Maybe in my next life. Keep it up!
Cheers for the props Rhys! Jump on the career change now. You only get one shot at this game.. There is so much demand for lime work so you will defo find a new career in the industry once you get proficient with the mortar.
I Live in Oban Lovely people, I do miss it I must admit😊
Lucky chap! It's a bonny gateway to the isles. There's some interesting fisherfolk on a night out out there...!😳
That granite house will stand forever
All good and very informative ,I’m from down south and not sure we get material like your using ,yes we can get the lime but the aggregate we have building sand , washed grit which I supposed it bit like your course material but is grey and wouldn’t give the same finished colour, any advice please
Thanks for the kind words Joe. You can order decent river sands from companies such as limestuff.co.uk to make ideal mixes with. Nothing wrong with making your own course sand mix though with mixing the building sand with the washed grit. Each mix will have a different finish colour to it. I guess that's the joy of lime work, each job is unique and has it's own particular qualities down to the constituents of the mix used.
What an incredible back drop. Stunning location. Just wondered if you considered doing a vid on the application of different lime morters. What idealy would you use hot lime morter for, vs NhL limes etc. I'm confused with a possible up coming project I may or may not undertake with a 1870s brick boundary wall. Any advise would be gratefully received.
Thanks.
Rob.
Thanks for the positive vibes!
I personally don't use hot lime as I get the finish and performance from the mortars I use (predominantly NHL and putty)
Whatever you choose to use, steer clear of cement with the renovation of the 1870s property where possible. The dwelling will adore you for it..
So u can use hydrated lime for pointing? 🤔 just won’t set as hard ?
The regular cheap, off the shelf stuff from the builders merchants isn't worth bothering with. Go for at least an NHL 3.5
Thanks for these videos. I have an old stone block/lime mortar/bathstone house in s wales and this is helping me tackle it myself. Did you have a suggestion for a supplier for NHL 3.5 lime you could suggest?
Sorry, just answered by own question by watching! ionic NHL 3.5.
These videos are great. Thanks so much. What is your opinion of lime products like conserv which are already prepared and you just mix with water? They look easier for folks like me who don't have a cement mixer.
Glad you have found use from them matey!
The ready mix mortars are superb quality products. There is no worries about fluffing up a mix if you have sourced the constituents yourself.
You can prepare the mortars with a simple bucket of water and a trowel. A piece of plywood and shovel is another way of mixing up. In fact, that's how mortars were mixer before the arrival of the electric mixer..
Thanks so much. As I understand from your videos I need to mix for 45 mins approx. with a ratio of 1:3 with sand based on weight. Sand should be washed fine or grit sand.
I am trying to patch up a wall on an old farmhouse on the tops above Todmorden, just down the road from Pendle (in fact you can see Pendle Hill from the house). It’s previously been pointed with cement which is why the mortar is cracking and popping out.
I am planning to start with a lower/ground section of the wall as this is one part that needs repointing and it’s my first time doing this sort of thing. Once I get a bit more confident I will do the top of the wall as this will involve going up a ladder or hiring scaffolding.
One concern I have is about the weather as it’s been quite cold here recently and we had frost the other day. Is it OK to point now if I cover the work with a cotton or hessian sheet to protect it?
Also, I have been recommended lime mortar of 3.5 NHL, but, as I see from your videos, it’s better to use one at 5 NHL for a wall that gets a lot of stick from the weather.
Many thanks and apologies for so many questions
@@dportercontracting9974
@@bengray8633 The ready mixed stuff you can get from vendors like limestuff.com is already proportioned so it just needs water and a good mixing to get it ready to point up.
I'd stay clear of any fine sands in a lime mortar mix. They will cause shrinkage and cracking in your mortar.
If you need some scaffolding then give Uprite at Padiham a call. Chris and Declan are great to deal with and very reasonably priced for access solutions.
The colder weather of late means it will soon be coming to an end in the north for this pointing season. I'll usually give over when the daytime temperature is 5° or less. This time of year means it is best to double drape the pointing with Hessians to protect it. That 30-60 days after application is vital for a full technical set of the mortar.
If you are getting battered by the weather on your aspect of the wall or chimney stack for example, then I'd recommend using a 5. You can't get ready mix in NHL 5 though so would have to mix your mortar by hand.
Thanks so much. Do you know where I can get NHL 5 in or around Burnley? My local supplier is Fielden Factors, but they only have NHL 3.5 and hydrated lime. @@dportercontracting9974
Sorry, another question. Do you have any videos that discuss how to point a wall where there is a gap going all the way through to the space behind it? I presume you need to put in some ballast (chippings or an appropriately sized stone) to fill it. @@dportercontracting9974