Like the "shorts" Izzy. A good extra to the main vids, explaining in more detail various techniques, in this case, lime mortar. Nice one, appreciate you taking the time to do this. 👍
Izzy, I work as a volunteer on the Buildings Team at the Chiltern Open Air Museum. The Museum saves condemned buildings from the Chilterns, takes them down and rebuilds them on site using traditional methods of construction. At the moment we are repointing the Toll House from High Wycombe with lime mortar. I’ve never done this before but have seen your videos which I have shared with my co-workers; we all use your work as a guide and it’s beginning to look amazing. Thanks so much.
Hiya mate, that's amazing what your doing, restoring old buildings! Really pleased that my video was able to help you and your co workers 🙂🙂 please send me some pictures of the project ☺️ All the best
Proper lime mortar for stone buildings is hot lime mortar or lime putty. Lime powder or kibble ( calcium oxide) made from limestone rock ( calcium carbonate) during slacking becomes calcium hydroxide and during curing by carbonation becomes calcium carbonate again. Carbon neutral material and best for stone walls. Little bit of pozzolan can be added to achieve feebly hydrolic mortar. NHL is modern substitute of lime that is way different ( worse for stone walls) than traditional lime mortar.
You can find PPE in the description below. If you'd like me to make a How to video on a topic your interested in, let me know in the comments below 👇 Side note regarding the mixer. Andy, from Bricklayers world wide, mentioned in my previous video, that using a paddle mixer (used for plastering) is a great alternative to using the bell mixer 💪
Thanks so much, good to see your exact recipe. I'm researching for completely covering an old stone interior wall in Italy. I first need to do a round of "dubbing out" to roughly fill in the very uneven original mortar (never pointed, it was a barn....albeit a very thick-walled and sturdy one). Is this mix you describe here good for dubbing out? I'm not clear on what is the best ratios of soft sand, sharp sand, and NHL for filling and levelling, RATHER than just repointing. Thanks!
For consistency of across mixes why not use a smaller tub to measure each substrate? Fill and flatten down and across the top with the trowel will get a better measurement. The big tub that is used here means that the sand and lime is thrown several times, instead of just tipped in from a small tub, causing the lime to be cast up into the air more than necessary. The strength of the mix ought to be adjusted according to the hardness/softness of the bricks to ensure that the mortar is the weaker.
Hi, can I ask you what sand you would use for a 120 year old house with lime mortar? I keep getting told sharp is best but can you use a mix of sharp and plastering dav to be able to use in a mortar gun? I do re-pointing now and again but only with traditional sand and cement in the guns. Thanks
Hey Isaac, is it ok to use any type of lime mortar like ( hydrated like with sand ) like “ brixment type S , it has lime and cement we add the sand over old lime mortar….are this ok to use over like work ? How do you text if is lime or cement? Thanks man God bless you.
Izzy. I am commenting on your video and really hope I can help anyone out on this subject. Lime is a very vague subject amongst tradesmen these days and a vast amount of knowledge has been lost over the past 80 years. As you know it's expensive and not a very good way to earn vast profit. I have lost countless nights sleep over it. 2m2 per day is about my estimate these days. If you get a sample tested you will find the mix to be around 1:1 maybe 1:2 All will depend on where you are in the country as material never generally travelled far. The use of soft sand is absolutely no benefit. If you can find the original sand source you are safe ( a local fresh water river bed source as in some area's of Kent) A sieve analysis will give you the correct sand grading ( part of the mortar test ) This all seems a lot of fuss but you will have the correct info on which to spec your mortar. I have been on some repointing jobs for more than 2 years. It's a lot of work to put it right and this is because the client is normally wealthy and can easily take one to the cleaners so you will have to correct it. There has been vast amounts of research into lime and it's a known fact that you cannot get modern lime to behave like the old this has a lot to do with purity and the old limes where dirty and this stems from the burning of the calcium. Our limes are pure in contrast mainly due to modern pollution concerns. The safest solution is to get your mix specified by a professional that has an indemnity insurance. It will cost you but you will have support. The good workmanship is down to you and that's another story.
Oh wow that's amazing Darrin, I, probably like everyone else besides a few people, had no idea about all of that information you just shared. Appreciate your knowledge on the subject ☺️ where have you been working buddy?
@@IzzytheBrickyThank you for your kind reply Izzy. I work in East Kent and 90% of my time on my own. Due to this I will often be employed by a well to do client that just wants their old property repaired etc. This often involves the use of Lime and reclaimed materials I have a few builder friends that just can't be arsed to fiddle about with stuff resulting in me having to sort out old traditional stuff. I was very fortunate to have been around old long gone tradesmen that knew how much I liked old work so they used to pass on all manner of knowledge. With old buildings come wealthy people and they normally have a very sharp educated brain. I never try to out smart them and try my best to get on with things properly this means you have to know the answer to their questions. Say a surgeon that can understand a lime technical leaflet in a few seconds. Lime is a big subject amongst the middle-class folks and they don't like dirty hands. The proper tuck pointing boys have all number of secrets on the subject that keeps them nicely employed. I have made some serious mistakes when working for ignorant builders that think the £15000 repoint is just big load of profit. If you know your product and have the right technique you can earn reasonable but I am afraid money makes people do funny things.
3.5nhl is probably too hard for most historical stone/brick applications. NHL 1 or 2 or even a mature lime putty mix would be better. The mortar should always be softer than the building material when fully hardened. The 3.5 refers to mortar strength in mpa developed at 28 days. Nhl can continue to get harder after this time. The mortar is intended to be sacrificial it should be the main conduit for damp evaporating in a wall, it is helpful to see mortar as shock absorber rather than a glue. Buildings tend to move due to ground changes, expansion and contraction, a well made lime mortar has flexibility which can accommodate movement without cracking. If cracking occurs lime mortar can self heal by migrating free lime to the site of the crack. Natural hydraulic lime can cure under water due to the chemical reaction of the constituents, ordinary lime putty has to rely on absorption of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It is important to dampen the substrate before application and protect the mortar from wind/ sunlight to keep as much water in the mix for it to cure successfully.
@@ingevansand9180 No, hydrated lime is mainly used as a plasticiser in bricklaying mortar, it is a poor substitute for lime putty. Hydrated lime is widely available whereas lime putty is generally sold by specialist suppliers who have a delivery network. Hydrated lime is often mistaken for hydraulic lime.
Just a practical tip If like me you live in a stone cottage exposed to welsh mountain weather lime mortar doesn’t last a year it’s exposed to extreme weather I’ve tried it
36 years at this game Izzy and I know almost nothing about lime . We only used it for the first time last year when we worked with the A&E boys . Every day is a school day . Those mics work well too, couldn’t hear the mixer 🎤👌🏼🧱👍🏽
Just a note...those masks are ok to begin with but over years the rubber perishes and splits...I use masks almost daily and now I would never buy anything other than sundstroms...about the same price but far superior! I'm a chippy of 20yrs fyi and my decorator agrees the same 👍
Izzy you are confusing hydrolic lime with hydrated lime. You should not knock it up the next day as hydrolic will loose its chemical strength same as cement its a chemical setting process not a carbonating process like hydrated lime which you could knock back up any time
This is totally wrong on almost everything, why talk about something that you clearly dont have the most basic understanding of ? 1. NEVER use building sand with lime. Using two parts of building sand like this is categorically wrong and will produce a very poor mortar. This also looks like unwashed building sand, even worse, especially with NHL's. 2. USE a washed sharp or course sand for all the parts of the aggregate, preferably well graded, if a specific colour is required a very small portion of unwashed sand can be used to add colour. 3. NEVER let the mix ball up like he does, add in 2 parts sand and one lime first and then enough water to make the mix start rolling over immediately, do not flood the mix, add in the last part of sand. 4. You do not need to mix the first 3 parts dry for ten minutes, a minute would be fine just to blend the mix a bit. Once the last water has been added 10-15 minutes is fine for NHls. For best results mix for 15, leave for 5 to settle then mix again for 5. 5. NHLs Do react with water, that is the whole idea dummy ...... natural hydraulic lime...... its in the name ...... NHl 2 is 30/70 water/ air. NHL 3.5 60/40 NHl 5 80/20. Once mixed NHL 3.5 and 5 should be used fairly much straight away, especially in the summer. NHL 2 is more workable but will start to carbonate as soon as water its added. The only form of lime that reacts only with air is lime putty. Which he probably should have been using anyway. 6. NHLs are, at least 3.5 and 5, very strong compared to historic lime mixes. 5 is basically weak cement and too strong for everything apart from chimneys. 3.5 is again fairly strong but mixed at 1/3 is acceptable in exposed areas. NHL 2 is a better option or even lime putty with a pozzaline. Most important of all, never listen to some chump on RUclips who knows nothing about lime, stick to knocking up cement blocks mate.
I'm a total noob about this, but am trying to patch some small areas on an old house we bought. Can you recommend any particular pre-mixed lime mortar, and what do you think of the LIMELITE stuff? Cheers.
First off its getting into the wrong time of year for external lime work. If you have to do it now then a NHl is your only option, putty wont set enough before winter, or its not worth risking it anyway. you will not destroy your house using the limelite NHL 3.5 at 1 part lime to 3 parts sharp/grit sand. but a less strong lime might also be better. the key is to make he mortar the sacrificial element to the stone/brickwork. if the mortar is stonier than the brick/masonry then they get damaged. You're on the right path already so well done !@@Showing_the_car_
Pre mixed means lime putty. As above its a bit late in the year for that. Call a local lime merchant, in the south we have rose of Jericho. they are a great source of help and information.@@Showing_the_car_
One of the most informative, well explained videos I've seen. No daft music or gimmicks. Thankyou.
Thanks so much mate
Like the "shorts" Izzy. A good extra to the main vids, explaining in more detail various techniques, in this case, lime mortar. Nice one, appreciate you taking the time to do this. 👍
Really helpful video. Clear and concise. Thanks!
Hey Izzy, just subscribed mate.
Great video. Nice to seeing lime being used, great tutorial as well 👌
Always good to learn new things.
First time I saw Lime mortar getting used was Mr Songer's videos many moons ago 👍🏻
Thanks for this Izzy, great vid and very helpful
Izzy, I work as a volunteer on the Buildings Team at the Chiltern Open Air Museum. The Museum saves condemned buildings from the Chilterns, takes them down and rebuilds them on site using traditional methods of construction. At the moment we are repointing the Toll House from High Wycombe with lime mortar. I’ve never done this before but have seen your videos which I have shared with my co-workers; we all use your work as a guide and it’s beginning to look amazing. Thanks so much.
Hiya mate, that's amazing what your doing, restoring old buildings! Really pleased that my video was able to help you and your co workers 🙂🙂 please send me some pictures of the project ☺️
All the best
Proper lime mortar for stone buildings is hot lime mortar or lime putty. Lime powder or kibble ( calcium oxide) made from limestone rock ( calcium carbonate) during slacking becomes calcium hydroxide and during curing by carbonation becomes calcium carbonate again. Carbon neutral material and best for stone walls. Little bit of pozzolan can be added to achieve feebly hydrolic mortar. NHL is modern substitute of lime that is way different ( worse for stone walls) than traditional lime mortar.
Boss mate! Thank you for uploading this!
Thanks. Really clear and well put.
You can find PPE in the description below. If you'd like me to make a How to video on a topic your interested in, let me know in the comments below 👇
Side note regarding the mixer. Andy, from Bricklayers world wide, mentioned in my previous video, that using a paddle mixer (used for plastering) is a great alternative to using the bell mixer 💪
Nice to see the old skills being used
Top notch mate as ever 👏😎
Excellent tutorial and very informative. You are a natural teacher. Many thanks and all the best.
Thanks so much Andrew! Have a great weekend
Alright Izzy been really busy last few weeks so I AV a bit of catching up to do hope your well bro
Thanks so much, good to see your exact recipe. I'm researching for completely covering an old stone interior wall in Italy. I first need to do a round of "dubbing out" to roughly fill in the very uneven original mortar (never pointed, it was a barn....albeit a very thick-walled and sturdy one). Is this mix you describe here good for dubbing out? I'm not clear on what is the best ratios of soft sand, sharp sand, and NHL for filling and levelling, RATHER than just repointing. Thanks!
Just using plastering sand and lime makes a great flush joint by finishing with a wire brush, gives it a heritage look
Try mixing you're mortar wetter and knocking it up the next day. 2:1 ratio is also an amazing ratio.
🎉 nice...what you use to record your videos m8?
Nice vid btw
Any tips for removing stains caused when you add water to the old joint after you have cleaned it out?
NHL actually sets because of the water not air carbonation.
You’re thinking of hydrated lime rather than natural hydraulic lime.
For consistency of across mixes why not use a smaller tub to measure each substrate? Fill and flatten down and across the top with the trowel will get a better measurement. The big tub that is used here means that the sand and lime is thrown several times, instead of just tipped in from a small tub, causing the lime to be cast up into the air more than necessary. The strength of the mix ought to be adjusted according to the hardness/softness of the bricks to ensure that the mortar is the weaker.
3.5 is not the softest because its not 100% Lime
Nice video 👍
Hi, can I ask you what sand you would use for a 120 year old house with lime mortar? I keep getting told sharp is best but can you use a mix of sharp and plastering dav to be able to use in a mortar gun? I do re-pointing now and again but only with traditional sand and cement in the guns.
Thanks
Good video, Izzy. Lime mortar is such a great product. We need to get away from Portland.
Thanks mate glad you enjoyed it!
Hi there, do you use only the 3.5 nhl or you use cement based pointing too?
Hey Isaac, is it ok to use any type of lime mortar like ( hydrated like with sand ) like “ brixment type S , it has lime and cement we add the sand over old lime mortar….are this ok to use over like work ?
How do you text if is lime or cement?
Thanks man God bless you.
Helpful video, thanks! I need to repoint a Victorian retaining wall. How can I find out what mix I should use? The existing joints seem very soft.
I'd go for quite a weak mix. Perhaps 4/1 or even 5/1 do a little research 😊
@@IzzytheBricky Thank you, I was thinking 5/1. This is research 😉
Should all repointing be done with a lime mortar mix to allow the building to breathe or are there occasions where sand and cement will suffice?
Great video - thanks. But no eye protection when throwing lime around......goggles?
Where did you get that hawk ?
Can you knock up without a mixer ? By hand ?
Its same way that i do it buddy👍
Eye protection? Otherwise really good
Hi Izzy is there no requirement for plasticiser? I am about to start grinding out and repoint my 1930s house in Cheshire
Stick a dustbin lid over the mixer izzy
A suggestion to stop it from balling, put a rock or two in the mixer.
Safety goggles, that lime mess up👀 end in 😭
Izzy.
I am commenting on your video and really hope I can help anyone out on this subject.
Lime is a very vague subject amongst tradesmen these days and a vast amount of knowledge has been lost over the past 80 years.
As you know it's expensive and not a very good way to earn vast profit.
I have lost countless nights sleep over it.
2m2 per day is about my estimate these days.
If you get a sample tested you will find the mix to be around 1:1 maybe 1:2
All will depend on where you are in the country as material never generally travelled far.
The use of soft sand is absolutely no benefit.
If you can find the original sand source you are safe ( a local fresh water river bed source as in some area's of Kent)
A sieve analysis will give you the correct sand grading ( part of the mortar test )
This all seems a lot of fuss but you will have the correct info on which to spec your mortar.
I have been on some repointing jobs for more than 2 years.
It's a lot of work to put it right and this is because the client is normally wealthy and can easily take one to the cleaners so you will have to correct it.
There has been vast amounts of research into lime and it's a known fact that you cannot get modern lime to behave like the old this has a lot to do with purity and the old limes where dirty and this stems from the burning of the calcium.
Our limes are pure in contrast mainly due to modern pollution concerns.
The safest solution is to get your mix specified by a professional that has an indemnity insurance.
It will cost you but you will have support.
The good workmanship is down to you and that's another story.
Oh wow that's amazing Darrin, I, probably like everyone else besides a few people, had no idea about all of that information you just shared. Appreciate your knowledge on the subject ☺️ where have you been working buddy?
@@IzzytheBrickyThank you for your kind reply Izzy.
I work in East Kent and 90% of my time on my own.
Due to this I will often be employed by a well to do client that just wants their old property repaired etc.
This often involves the use of Lime and reclaimed materials I have a few builder friends that just can't be arsed to fiddle about with stuff resulting in me having to sort out old traditional stuff.
I was very fortunate to have been around old long gone tradesmen that knew how much I liked old work so they used to pass on all manner of knowledge.
With old buildings come wealthy people and they normally have a very sharp educated brain.
I never try to out smart them and try my best to get on with things properly this means you have to know the answer to their questions.
Say a surgeon that can understand a lime technical leaflet in a few seconds.
Lime is a big subject amongst the middle-class folks and they don't like dirty hands.
The proper tuck pointing boys have all number of secrets on the subject that keeps them nicely employed.
I have made some serious mistakes when working for ignorant builders that think the £15000 repoint is just big load of profit.
If you know your product and have the right technique you can earn reasonable but I am afraid money makes people do funny things.
Izzy that was confusing the way you explained the ratio
So is it 2 parts sand 1 part sharp sand and 1 part NHL????
Look at the state of your tools and mixer.
Another question: Why not use a lime putty?
3.5nhl is probably too hard for most historical stone/brick applications. NHL 1 or 2 or even a mature lime putty mix would be better. The mortar should always be softer than the building material when fully hardened. The 3.5 refers to mortar strength in mpa developed at 28 days. Nhl can continue to get harder after this time. The mortar is intended to be sacrificial it should be the main conduit for damp evaporating in a wall, it is helpful to see mortar as shock absorber rather than a glue. Buildings tend to move due to ground changes, expansion and contraction, a well made lime mortar has flexibility which can accommodate movement without cracking. If cracking occurs lime mortar can self heal by migrating free lime to the site of the crack. Natural hydraulic lime can cure under water due to the chemical reaction of the constituents, ordinary lime putty has to rely on absorption of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It is important to dampen the substrate before application and protect the mortar from wind/ sunlight to keep as much water in the mix for it to cure successfully.
Is it better with hydrated lime?
@@ingevansand9180 No, hydrated lime is mainly used as a plasticiser in bricklaying mortar, it is a poor substitute for lime putty. Hydrated lime is widely available whereas lime putty is generally sold by specialist suppliers who have a delivery network. Hydrated lime is often mistaken for hydraulic lime.
Use a hotlime mix Calbux 90. 1 lime, 3 sharp sand. This way you know what you’re getting.
Fully agree. I only use hot lime now!
You can mix it then store it in tubs with water on top and a lid.
Not this stuff, you need quicklime to be able to store, not nhl i believe.
Yes, you will need lime hydrated lime rather than nhl for long term storage, nhl sets with moisture
Hi , can I use hydrated or NHL for any lime work?
How do you test if is Lime ?
Thanks
Izzy. Love the videos, however, NHL 3.5 is too hard for older buildings. NHL 2.. maybe but preferable to use Quicklime, with soft bricks.
Just a practical tip
If like me you live in a stone cottage exposed to welsh mountain weather lime mortar doesn’t last a year it’s exposed to extreme weather I’ve tried it
You can NHL 5 for areas like that.
36 years at this game Izzy and I know almost nothing about lime . We only used it for the first time last year when we worked with the A&E boys .
Every day is a school day .
Those mics work well too, couldn’t hear the mixer 🎤👌🏼🧱👍🏽
I have found 3.5 to be far too hard. It doesn’t allow walls to breathe. Even some NHL 2 are too hard. I have reverted to using hotlime instead.
Wots hot lime ?
What price per square metre these days ? Cut and struck ! I presume! TIA
He covers cost in the video that came out on Monday. 👍🏻
Just a note...those masks are ok to begin with but over years the rubber perishes and splits...I use masks almost daily and now I would never buy anything other than sundstroms...about the same price but far superior! I'm a chippy of 20yrs fyi and my decorator agrees the same 👍
Shame they only stock hydrated lime locally. You have to pay expensive shipping fees to get any hydraulic 3.5.
Ft
I hear 3.5 is not 100% Lime but contains a high percentage of impurities
You are right. It’s almost as hard as cement. Nothing like the old traditional lime mortars. I always use hot lime.
Izzy you are confusing hydrolic lime with hydrated lime.
You should not knock it up the next day as hydrolic will loose its chemical strength same as cement its a chemical setting process not a carbonating process like hydrated lime which you could knock back up any time
Don’t teach people to put there hand in a mixer it’s bad practice
Their.
@@davidcameron7597 why? Theirs just no need? Troll.
One of my first memories from primary school is hearing about someone’s dad who had broken his arm by reaching into a cement mixer
This is totally wrong on almost everything, why talk about something that you clearly dont have the most basic understanding of ?
1. NEVER use building sand with lime. Using two parts of building sand like this is categorically wrong and will produce a very poor mortar. This also looks like unwashed building sand, even worse, especially with NHL's.
2. USE a washed sharp or course sand for all the parts of the aggregate, preferably well graded, if a specific colour is required a very small portion of unwashed sand can be used to add colour.
3. NEVER let the mix ball up like he does, add in 2 parts sand and one lime first and then enough water to make the mix start rolling over immediately, do not flood the mix, add in the last part of sand.
4. You do not need to mix the first 3 parts dry for ten minutes, a minute would be fine just to blend the mix a bit. Once the last water has been added 10-15 minutes is fine for NHls. For best results mix for 15, leave for 5 to settle then mix again for 5.
5. NHLs Do react with water, that is the whole idea dummy ...... natural hydraulic lime...... its in the name ...... NHl 2 is 30/70 water/ air. NHL 3.5 60/40 NHl 5 80/20. Once mixed NHL 3.5 and 5 should be used fairly much straight away, especially in the summer. NHL 2 is more workable but will start to carbonate as soon as water its added. The only form of lime that reacts only with air is lime putty. Which he probably should have been using anyway.
6. NHLs are, at least 3.5 and 5, very strong compared to historic lime mixes. 5 is basically weak cement and too strong for everything apart from chimneys. 3.5 is again fairly strong but mixed at 1/3 is acceptable in exposed areas. NHL 2 is a better option or even lime putty with a pozzaline.
Most important of all, never listen to some chump on RUclips who knows nothing about lime, stick to knocking up cement blocks mate.
Mixer isn't even on the stand. You need these mixers tipped forward to create the slap when mixing
I'm a total noob about this, but am trying to patch some small areas on an old house we bought. Can you recommend any particular pre-mixed lime mortar, and what do you think of the LIMELITE stuff? Cheers.
First off its getting into the wrong time of year for external lime work. If you have to do it now then a NHl is your only option, putty wont set enough before winter, or its not worth risking it anyway. you will not destroy your house using the limelite NHL 3.5 at 1 part lime to 3 parts sharp/grit sand. but a less strong lime might also be better. the key is to make he mortar the sacrificial element to the stone/brickwork. if the mortar is stonier than the brick/masonry then they get damaged. You're on the right path already so well done !@@Showing_the_car_
@@user-xj5mh3kh9j Can you recommend any particular pre-mixed lime mortar? what do you think about LIMELITE plaster?
Pre mixed means lime putty. As above its a bit late in the year for that. Call a local lime merchant, in the south we have rose of Jericho. they are a great source of help and information.@@Showing_the_car_