Thanks for sharing. Great advice on taking out half the mix whilst it's dry before mixing in water to the other half, just in case you get it too wet... and I love the tarzan phone call interruptions.
Haha A few of my videos I seem to get a call or message If I can help in anyway just ask Or whattsapp me pictures of your project I will try to guide you if needed
This is great advice I did what you said and removed some of the dry mix it worked perfect I always mix it to wet its so simple a thing to do I feel a bit stupid not thinking of it myself
Brilliant vid! Common sense advice that I wouldn’t have thought of until I’d mixed about five over wet mixes. Love the red sandstone wall with all the nubs on the faces of the stones. Cheers!
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd free consultancy? .. I do have one question. I have a wall in the hallway of an Edwardian house which I’ve had to take all the lime plaster off. It was cracked and failing partly due to a WW2 bomb landing close and shaking the foundations. It’s the exterior wall which goes up the stair well so it’s 2 floors high so a big drop to plaster. Seeing as it’s the exterior wall and the wall is Flemish bond I thought that gypsum may cause problems over time for not letting the wall breathe. I was thinking then , instead of lime plastering the enormous was, instead to lime wash it with a watered down lime putty to soften the appearance of the brick and then to paint the lime wash with a good emulsion. I’ve never used lime wash or lime putty. As an idea do you think that lime washing an internal wall like that would be ok? Would I need any aggregate in the mix? Would it take ages to dry? I’m going to have to repoint the house in lime so I’m trying to keep the construction as traditional as possible without introducing too much cement or gypsum in areas I think may cause future issues. Any wisdom would be great fully received.
@@Scribe3168 hi I don't do lime plastering I only do the lime pointing If your on FB search in the lime There plenty of people on there that do internal work
Whatever you do, don’t under any circumstance look directly at the mixer. It gets you, pulls you in. I’ve seen grown men turn into zombies looking into the mixer. You think it won’t happen to you, but boom, 10 minutes in, you’re gone. Stay safe.
It's true. I knew a man once who was happy in life, had a family, money and wanted for nothing. he was in as good a place in life as you could be....... Until the day he looked directly in to the mixer. I'll never forget that day. It was a belle with a Honda engine, petrol, mixed beautifully she did. One minute I was chatting to him about the weather, I turned around and when I looked back he was after doing it, he had looked directly in to it and from that moment his life was irrevocably changed. I tried to pull him away but like a dog with rabies he went for me,..... tried to bite my leg......... doctors did all they could for him but that man is now on the streets, begging for money so he can get his next sand and cement baggy for his mixer fix. He will never be right again. Some say that when he's really desperate he will even try using beach sand...... Makes me shudder to even think of it. So remember kids, when you're tempted to look in to the mixer, just say no!!
I can't believe....as a brickie, I've just watched a video of a mixer going round for 20 minutes! Seriously though, really informative stuff there mate it pays to have a bit of patience to get the perfect result.
Brilliant video. very easy to understand. I hve not been mixing my mortar enough. and putting too much water in it. Subscribed! John Bethel, Missouri. USA
The dry mixing is really important gets the lime coating the whole of the sand When you add the water and finished mixing let it sit for ten minutes then you can use it
All credit to you for mixing out of a bell mixer but far easier with a hopper mixer (upright) way easier to gauge water too ..but I fully agree first thing get a mix on straight away as weather dependent can take a good while for a mix
Its so each grain of sand gets coated with the lime And when you add the water it's so it coats the lime and sand so the calcification kicks in You leave it 10 minutes to fatten up It's good practice to thoroughly mix it
Very informative video ... Thanks! My situation: Remortaring sandstone blocks, live foundation on my 1895 house ( old mortar totally gone to sand). Will use oak wedges to re-level them. Foundation/footer underneath are solid. I'm wondering if I should use a Portland mix of some sort (perhaps mortar mix from builder's supply) to start with (for structural strength), and then follow up with your NHL 3.5 mix for final tuck point ... or should I just use the NHL 3.5 throughout for the re joining the blocks, i.e.,, does it have enough structural strength to hold the blocks?
What's the best way to remove any lime mortar stains on the brickwork? Ive repointed a garden wall from 1905 and the bricks were all over thr place and I was unable to do a tidy finish ...
Hey pal, thanks for the video. Quick question I have a 1900-30 house (not sure exactly when it was built). Someone has previously repointed with cement mortar not lime so I’m gonna get it all out and repoint it properly. I think a 1-3 mix of 3.5 should do it. Would you agree?
Yes NHL 2 or 3.5 You can do it in a hot lime depends on area you live in and how hard or soft your brick work is there's a few factors to take into consideration
Yeah there's always several ways to do somthing I just wanted to show To use a small shovel Not to grip the handle But main thing is stop the mixer So no risk
Hi Glenn. Would you recommend a pre mix lime mortar for beginners for filling a developing crack in a granite house (1870s). Bit confused by all the products out there.
@Rgeneb No mate, it's never had an Aberdeen number. I'm in North Wales 20 minutes from chester,and I've been here since 2004 If you need any advice on a project just message me
Hi thanks loads for video I love on the Isle of Wight In Victorian house the old mortar is dusty falling out, I’m. Beginner at this . Starting on the back of house. I was just wandering on what the best mix would be for this. It’s quite a creamy mix the old stuff. Thanks loads, Jacob
If your a beginner I'd say an NHL 2 or a 3.5 Depends what's local to yourself Or if you can get a premixed putty That will be easier just tip the water out and mix you can choose the colour of putty you want as long as your walls don't get hit with 80 plus miles an HR winds
@@jacobbenger-pereira3514 yes that's powdered lime I use lafarge or saint astier as it has hi free lime content mix at 1 lime to 2.5 or 3 sharp sand read the specs of what lime you use and what you can get local
Great video, very informative. Would you use Natural Hydrated Lime for bricking up a fireplace? It's on the first floor and we're looking to fit a wood burner on the ground floor in future.
@jimmymcmenemie1427 yes hydraulic nhl means natural hydraulic lime Hydrated lime is a plastasiser for cement Sorry I 'm shattered playing international pool in malta atm
Really useful video, thanks. As you're located in North Wales, maybe you'll have experience that'd help me out. I'm looking at matching mortar for a small section of inside wall (previous owner bodged it with cement when they found loose bricks). The house is in the Trevor Basin area, built with Ruabon red brick around 1890. The wall will be left as exposed brick so the mortar colour needs to be a close match to the original. Any idea what sand I should be looking for?
If you whatsapp me some pictures I can advise you a lot better Or take a bit of the original lime out Put it in white vinegar it will eat away at the lime and leave the sand granules
Hello, Is it true that the compression rates of NHL can vary greatly between manufacturers ? Do you know which make of 3.5 has the lowest compression rate? Thank you
@NAFO_Badger_Brigade that was a slip of the tongue I couldn't edit it out. For some reason, over 50000 people have watched that video, and you are the first to notice It was 1 lime 3 sharp sand
Hi yes depending what your data sheet says on the lime your using try to use a good quality nhl It's 1:3 or 1:2.5 When using lime the binder always goes first And mix by volume not weight unless the data sheet says other wise
It depends If your in a protected area you can use a hot lime or a putty If not a NHL 2 or a 3.5 On tight joints make sure you keep it damp for a few days Never use any cement on accringtons
Hi Glenn, For a pointing mix, lots of people say mix by weight, but you recommend by volume? I'm using Hanson 3.5 for a DIY english tuck pointing job. I was going to use washed sharp sand. What would you recommend for a tucking pointing stopping mortar mix? Thanks
Hi if you check the data sheet it always says mix by volume Just put hansons data sheet in Google I use lafarge or Saint astier much better product You will get people saying nhl is as hard as cement only use hot lime I dont do tuck pointing I don't get asked for it Join the fb group the fine art of repointing
@GMT Pointing Specialists Ltd Much appreciated. What's better in your opinion about the lime you use? Yeah, I certainly don't want lime to be hard as cement as my bricks are soft red rubbers. Perhaps I'll mix 4:1 to keep the mortar weak. Facebook group joined much appreciated.
Hi Glenn, thank you for posting these brilliant videos, really informative and well done, especially for DIYers full of doubts like myself! I'm just about to tackle the gable end wall on my victorian end terrace, it has been very badly repointed with cement, so lots of raking out first. I have a few questions if that's ok? 1. Is September ok to repoint, does it give it enough time to harden before winter, and can you repoint in the rain? 2. It's red brick house nr Nottingham, the wall is NE facing (slightly exposed to the elements), am I right in thinking NHL 3.5 1:3 mix like you have done here? 3. I read on one supplier that 6x25kg NHL 3.5 & 1x850kg bulk bag should be enough for 150sqm of repointing? Is
September is ok to point Use a good quality lime Lafarge or Saint astier I use Use a soft and grit sand together Well mixed If the brick work at the bottom under the render is fine just repoint it if not lime render it Make sure you cover your work with damp Hessian And use not to wet a mix as it will dry and shrink on narrow joints Dampen the wall before you start to point and work from the top down pointing in the rain as long as it's not landing on your fresh pointing is fine I just work under a sheet Hope I've answered all your questions
Love your videos just a question can you do smooth point with nhl lime ?just want to know if it still works the same letting moisture in and out only asking because Iam not sure thanks
You would have to use a washed soft sand It won't be smooth it will be slightly stippled as you don't want a skin on lime If the joints are wide you need a sharp sand What project are you doing
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd that's brilliant I've been a site brickie for over 30 years but my back gone I've started doing pointing jobs I've done a few with nhl 3.5 but it's. New learning curve for me
@@timclarke1791 any questions just ask or any videos you want me to put up just let me know Just choose your NHL well there's good and bad NHL 3.5 on the market
Depending on the time of year it's about 8 weeks at the moment Keep it covered as long as possible This weekend is supposed to be a hard frost so would need Hessian sacking Bubble wrap or tarpaulin sheets
Very helpful thank you! One question , if I'm doing pointing for the first time on my 3' High x 20' stone foundation wall , can I mix smaller amount with a hand mixer to control the volume or would that be a waste of time? I'll need to back fill first before the pointing, thx again! Great video
Hi yes you can use a hand mixer Just make sure each particle of sand is covered with lime before you add water Backfill push small stones into the backfilled lime it stops the lime from cracking and you don't use as much lime
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks. Just had an agent from Conserv tell me their stuff is pre-mixed and ready to use with the addition of water. Does that sound right to you?
@@jmabarker1 I have just bought some Conserv NHL 3.5 material. There is a large bag of grits/gravel/sand substrate with a smaller separate sealed pouch of lime inside too. You mix the contents of the lime pouch into the substrate, add water, and it's good to go. All the proportionate and relative quantities (ratios) are are pre-defined at the factory, so I am going to accurately measure one fifth of the lime (by weight) into one fifth of the substrate (by weight) at a time, simply to 'batch' it into smaller 5 kg hand mixed quantities. You could batch it down to 1/4, 1/3 or half, just keep the proportions correct.
That’s a long mix, so, back in the day, before everyone had a mixer and it was knocked up by hand, the tradesman would have had to do all that before starting work. I suppose the up side is it has a long open time. I remember, in the 50’s, a man doing some work for my mother, washed his sand before mixing. Is that still done?
Yes sand is prewashed before it's delivered Mix usually takes 30 minutes Years ago the would have had one or 2 guys doing a mix But back then they used hot lime putty type material with ash and charcoal even gypsum straw in the mix Still much better than cement though lol
Me personally I’d of had a sheet down when mixing I know this is a tutorial for beginners but too much cleaning up at end you’ll know yourself once it splashes out mixer and on road it’ll stain majority of where it lands my point is good rule of thought is preparation is key as it saves a lot of time come cleaning up especially out of a bell mixer but then like most we all learn from our mistakes can honestly say pal from my experiences it’s worth dishing out for a hopper mixer only real chance of spillage is dripping from chute .. All in all tho pal was an interesting watch
Yes thanks I could of put a sheet down but it didn't splatter on to the road as I normally do a dryer mix It's for begginers so tried to keep it simple All input is good If you have any videos put a link to it on a message so people can have a watch Thanks
@@markanderson6969 yes you can the old rubber bin lids were the best or o gorilla bucket but if you mix it properly it won't splatter If it does wash it straight away it won't stain
Yeah I was given it to try I've used a pointing hod for 25 years so I prefer to use the hod as it keeps the moisture in the mix the pointsman I didn't like very much tbh
Ive seen somewhere on here but this was years back. Your work looks really nice i would like to to more of the historical work but at the moment just currently doing house bashing
I've looked at another video on mixing nhl lime You mix in a bucket the same as the sand He said lime is always done by weight and his is a 3 to 1 as well I'm finding so many mixed messages by people working with lime
Hi there's different quality of lime The lime I use is mixed by volume just download the data sheet it's free on Google It's 1 lime 3 sand always put the binder first (lime) Lime burns so be careful use PPE
It by volume just read the data sheet Lab testing to see what the strongest possible strength you can get from lime is done by weight as they use a powdered sand and a different type of sand So people who think NHL is to hard at 9 mpa or newton's that's not what we get when we mix on site strongest is about 5 mpa after 200 days
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you! I've watched a dozen or more videos and yours is the first one that actually said look at the data sheet! Thanks again you solved my mystery!
Do you not use a mortar gun with your lime pointing? I repointing an internal wall with lime a few years ago and used te gun, had to make it much wetter than your mix so the gun would work. Much quicker and easier than using a hawk and tuck pointer. Only used lime twice in all my years as a builder, so far from an expert on it. The results of the wall I repointed were great.
Inside is different you use a softersand The wetter the mix more chance of it shrinking I work by myself so it's not quicker for me to use a gun I've done it 25 years 5 different types of pointing guns I still do it by hand the reasons for this is I use a dryer mix I use a mush sharpersand so won't go through a gun the sharper the sand the more it allows watter to wick away You get a neater finish And less shrinkage
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd , Cool, I try to stay away from pointing jobs, especially strap pointing like we have a lot of in Yorkshire. I take my hat off to you fellas who like doing it. Just checked out your video because I have just quoted to lime point a garden wall and rebuild another. I was double checking to see if its Hydralic or hydrated lime to quote for, haha, 30 years in the trade and used lime twice.
@@chrisbow1776 hydrated now a days is just used as a plasticiser for cement on newer bricks If it's old bricks hand mades always use a hydraulic or hot lime used hot or cold
Its means the strength Nh2 has high free lime content, and 3.5 has as well if you use a good quality one Saint astier or lafage 5 has more clay I never use nhl5
I just got a job come up were weve got to do a extension in pre mix 1000k bags . Would the lime take longer to go off as to of you was repointing a house ?
@@kierenboimufc5940 I'd find out what lime it is first sounds like a NHL Then if your adding water If your bricklaying with it you wont be able to go as high with it in a day like cement bricklaying If your pointing with it I'd of got it in smaller bags if you were going to point As how can you know what consistency it is Or if they have used a good high free lime content NHL I always mix my own so I know what ratio it is
I'm rendering my swimming pool can I use this 3-1 mix as a scratch coat with render mesh other wise I was going to do a 4-1 cement 1/4 lime sbr I'm finishing with a 2 pavier sand to 1 white cement 1/2limestone dust sbr
I have never done a swimming pool this is lime 1-3 3-1or 4-1 is cement based you would need to talk to someone that does that type of work to find out the best mix to use
depending on the stone yes You can use a NHL putty or a hot mixed lime Depends on weather and location I'd personally never use putty or hotline in a bad weather area
1 : 3 I use for lafarge nhl3.5 You can do a 1:2.5 depends what your doing What ever make of lime you use just go on Google you can download a free data sheet It will tell you the free lime content and mix ratio Hope that helps
Never had a problem with a bell mixer And I mix on site have you tried picking a forced action mixer up and putting it in a van At the end of a long day Belle mixer £300 to £400 Forced action mixers £2500 to £3500 Massive difference in price These videos are for beginners
@@benweaser9901 I had a Barron was really heavy when I do big jobs and I can secure it on site I use it but small jobs like this I use the belle mixer And like the video says it for beginners to show them that lime takes a while to mix not a couple of minutes in a bucket
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Meaning it takes a long time to have ready to use when you grew up around cement/concrete. BTW that was a very good video. Thank You for sharing and teaching.
You said 1 , 1 , 3 mix don't you mean 3 to 1 mix i have always known each number represents each part of the mix , ie 4 sand 1 lime 1 cement would be 4.1.1 cement/lime being the last number.
Yeah I said 1 1 3 It's another lime I put in that was a slip of the tongue I always try to say the binder first but its hard when I talk to people like yourself I do a mix standard 1 hydraulic lime Nhl 2 or 3.5 lafarge 3 sharp sand or a mix of sharp or soft must be washed no building sand I also do a 1 1 3 mix It's a 1 hydraulic 1 putty 3 sharp sand I must of edited that bit out as I just wanted to keep it as simple as I could I did another video on mixing hydraulic lime If I say 5 1 1 and put the sand first I'm talking about cement mortar 5 sand 1 hydrated lime 1 cement 4 1 1 or 3 1 1 there is too much powder to the sand I'd never mix like that Any questions just message me I'll help you out
What do you mean talk to people like myself, and what is this other lime you put in as well, i,m not criticizing i thought the video was very informative its no good doing a training/information video if you don't like feedback if you were in front of trainees/students would you not ask { any questions } .
@@shaunstewart5400 not building sand to many impurities Read the data sheet free online It will probably say 1:3 sharp or grit sand You don't want to lock moisture into a chimney and that's what building sand will do Search lime suppliers near me and they will tell you what local washed sharp sand is the best for you to use
Please used a wireless body mic because when you walk away from cam mic. We the audience can't hear a word you're saying. I'm definitely want to hear every word.
@user-dx2td9ft6p totally disagrees if you read the data sheet it tells you Just because you do it that way doesn't make it right All my videos are for teaching beginners, so I'm teaching them the correct way
![Mixing NHL3.5 with a belle mixer and what do to if the lime starts to ball [just add more water ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FkBF7C18PwQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mixing NHL3.5 with a belle mixer and what do to if the lime starts to ball [just add more water ]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks for sharing. Great advice on taking out half the mix whilst it's dry before mixing in water to the other half, just in case you get it too wet... and I love the tarzan phone call interruptions.
Haha
A few of my videos I seem to get a call or message
If I can help in anyway just ask
Or whattsapp me pictures of your project I will try to guide you if needed
This is great advice I did what you said and removed some of the dry mix it worked perfect
I always mix it to wet its so simple a thing to do I feel a bit stupid not thinking of it myself
No problem I'm here to help
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, keep up the good work. 👍🛠
Brilliant vid! Common sense advice that I wouldn’t have thought of until I’d mixed about five over wet mixes. Love the red sandstone wall with all the nubs on the faces of the stones. Cheers!
No probs here to help if you need any other tips
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd free consultancy? .. I do have one question. I have a wall in the hallway of an Edwardian house which I’ve had to take all the lime plaster off. It was cracked and failing partly due to a WW2 bomb landing close and shaking the foundations. It’s the exterior wall which goes up the stair well so it’s 2 floors high so a big drop to plaster. Seeing as it’s the exterior wall and the wall is Flemish bond I thought that gypsum may cause problems over time for not letting the wall breathe. I was thinking then , instead of lime plastering the enormous was, instead to lime wash it with a watered down lime putty to soften the appearance of the brick and then to paint the lime wash with a good emulsion. I’ve never used lime wash or lime putty. As an idea do you think that lime washing an internal wall like that would be ok? Would I need any aggregate in the mix? Would it take ages to dry? I’m going to have to repoint the house in lime so I’m trying to keep the construction as traditional as possible without introducing too much cement or gypsum in areas I think may cause future issues. Any wisdom would be great fully received.
@@Scribe3168 hi I don't do lime plastering I only do the lime pointing
If your on FB search in the lime
There plenty of people on there that do internal work
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok. Cheers for your time. I’ll have a look.
Whatever you do, don’t under any circumstance look directly at the mixer. It gets you, pulls you in. I’ve seen grown men turn into zombies looking into the mixer. You think it won’t happen to you, but boom, 10 minutes in, you’re gone. Stay safe.
Lol
It's true. I knew a man once who was happy in life, had a family, money and wanted for nothing. he was in as good a place in life as you could be....... Until the day he looked directly in to the mixer. I'll never forget that day. It was a belle with a Honda engine, petrol, mixed beautifully she did. One minute I was chatting to him about the weather, I turned around and when I looked back he was after doing it, he had looked directly in to it and from that moment his life was irrevocably changed. I tried to pull him away but like a dog with rabies he went for me,..... tried to bite my leg......... doctors did all they could for him but that man is now on the streets, begging for money so he can get his next sand and cement baggy for his mixer fix. He will never be right again. Some say that when he's really desperate he will even try using beach sand...... Makes me shudder to even think of it. So remember kids, when you're tempted to look in to the mixer, just say no!!
I can't believe....as a brickie, I've just watched a video of a mixer going round for 20 minutes! Seriously though, really informative stuff there mate it pays to have a bit of patience to get the perfect result.
Lol yeah it's to show the different stages of mixing
I have a shorter video up 😜
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltdlove the extended videos though! They give a more realistic idea of what it's like to be a repointing apprentice.
@@NAFO_Badger_Brigade I'm after an apprentice if you live near buckley 😁
Brilliant video. very easy to understand. I hve not been mixing my mortar enough. and putting too much water in it. Subscribed!
John
Bethel, Missouri. USA
The dry mixing is really important gets the lime coating the whole of the sand
When you add the water and finished mixing let it sit for ten minutes then you can use it
Many thanks for creating this video. Lots of good tips and advice. Many thanks.
No problem I'm here to help
All credit to you for mixing out of a bell mixer but far easier with a hopper mixer (upright) way easier to gauge water too ..but I fully agree first thing get a mix on straight away as weather dependent can take a good while for a mix
I prefer a bell mixer as it's lighter for me to get in and out of my van
Hi, thanks for the video it’s a great help but why does it have to mix for so long, I ask because I’m mixing by hand in a large bucket, thank you
Its so each grain of sand gets coated with the lime
And when you add the water it's so it coats the lime and sand so the calcification kicks in
You leave it 10 minutes to fatten up
It's good practice to thoroughly mix it
Gruelling!
Love it. You just don’t explain how to do it but also why it is done like that. ❤
Very informative video ... Thanks! My situation: Remortaring sandstone blocks, live foundation on my 1895 house ( old mortar totally gone to sand). Will use oak wedges to re-level them. Foundation/footer underneath are solid. I'm wondering if I should use a Portland mix of some sort (perhaps mortar mix from builder's supply) to start with (for structural strength), and then follow up with your NHL 3.5 mix for final tuck point ... or should I just use the NHL 3.5 throughout for the re joining the blocks, i.e.,, does it have enough structural strength to hold the blocks?
@@davidcongour61 mix it at a 1.2.5 structural mix at a 1.3 pointing
Use a good quality nhl with washed sharp sand
What's the best way to remove any lime mortar stains on the brickwork? Ive repointed a garden wall from 1905 and the bricks were all over thr place and I was unable to do a tidy finish
...
You can use a rough sponge
Wire brush
White vinegar or a light acid
But becarful not to get it on the pointing
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go.
Hey pal, thanks for the video. Quick question I have a 1900-30 house (not sure exactly when it was built). Someone has previously repointed with cement mortar not lime so I’m gonna get it all out and repoint it properly. I think a 1-3 mix of 3.5 should do it. Would you agree?
Yes NHL 2 or 3.5
You can do it in a hot lime depends on area you live in and how hard or soft your brick work is there's a few factors to take into consideration
Also with the shovel stand on the right hand side so it takes it away from you as apposed to pushing it against you
"Learned the hard way "
Yeah there's always several ways to do somthing
I just wanted to show
To use a small shovel
Not to grip the handle
But main thing is stop the mixer
So no risk
Hi Glenn. Would you recommend a pre mix lime mortar for beginners for filling a developing crack in a granite house (1870s). Bit confused by all the products out there.
@Rgeneb No mate, it's never had an Aberdeen number. I'm in North Wales 20 minutes from chester,and I've been here since 2004
If you need any advice on a project just message me
Hi thanks loads for video I love on the Isle of Wight In Victorian house the old mortar is dusty falling out, I’m. Beginner at this . Starting on the back of house. I was just wandering on what the best mix would be for this. It’s quite a creamy mix the old stuff. Thanks loads, Jacob
If your a beginner I'd say an NHL 2 or a 3.5
Depends what's local to yourself
Or if you can get a premixed putty
That will be easier just tip the water out and mix you can choose the colour of putty you want as long as your walls don't get hit with 80 plus miles an HR winds
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks by nhl 2 or 3.5 is that the lime type 😊
@@jacobbenger-pereira3514 yes that's powdered lime I use lafarge or saint astier as it has hi free lime content mix at 1 lime to 2.5 or 3 sharp sand read the specs of what lime you use and what you can get local
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd your a beauty! thank you man !
Hi sorry to bother you on a Sunday trying to get the lime sorted is Hanson lime hydrated ok to use . Hope your having a nice weekend
Can you mix small amounts by hand? Just for little patching up pointing jobs.
Yes just mix it in a cup
But give it a good mix while it's dry
Add as little water as possible and give a good few minutes while it's damp
Great video, very informative. Would you use Natural Hydrated Lime for bricking up a fireplace? It's on the first floor and we're looking to fit a wood burner on the ground floor in future.
Hi yes you can as it's inside use a NHL 2 or 3.5
Or a putty what ever is easier for you to get
@jimmymcmenemie1427 yes hydraulic nhl means natural hydraulic lime
Hydrated lime is a plastasiser for cement
Sorry I 'm shattered playing international pool in malta atm
Really useful video, thanks.
As you're located in North Wales, maybe you'll have experience that'd help me out. I'm looking at matching mortar for a small section of inside wall (previous owner bodged it with cement when they found loose bricks).
The house is in the Trevor Basin area, built with Ruabon red brick around 1890.
The wall will be left as exposed brick so the mortar colour needs to be a close match to the original.
Any idea what sand I should be looking for?
If you whatsapp me some pictures I can advise you a lot better
Or take a bit of the original lime out
Put it in white vinegar it will eat away at the lime and leave the sand granules
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Ah good plan. Yep I've got some sizable chunks of loose lime so I'll do that.
@alexbalrog where you are near wrexham borras sand, was mainly used a brown sharp sand mixed with soft
Hello, Is it true that the compression rates of NHL can vary greatly between manufacturers ? Do you know which make of 3.5 has the lowest compression rate? Thank you
Yes it is saint astier and lafarge are the best in my opinion I mix at a 1:3.
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you. I live in the Cotswolds and so the stone work it soft. I was just told i would be better with NHL 2
@@chrissmith841 yes NHL 2 has a higher free lime content if you use a good quality one
Hi Glen, Love the video. Why is it called a 113 mix when the quantities were 2 sand 1 lime?
@NAFO_Badger_Brigade that was a slip of the tongue I couldn't edit it out. For some reason, over 50000 people have watched that video, and you are the first to notice
It was 1 lime 3 sharp sand
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd I'm Ur virtual apprentice!!!!
@NAFO_Badger_Brigade that will do. If you have a project you want me to talk you through just send me a wattsapp and I will help
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Cool thanks - I will do.
Hi, thanks for putting this video up, what is your exact mix? Is it 3:1 sand to lime?
Hi yes depending what your data sheet says on the lime your using try to use a good quality nhl
It's 1:3 or 1:2.5
When using lime the binder always goes first
And mix by volume not weight unless the data sheet says other wise
What’s the binder?
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks for sharing all this information!
@@ellenphelan6475 the lime is the binder
@@ellenphelan6475 no problem if you have any questions feel free
All I ask is people to subscribe
Great video could you advise me on the mix to use with when pointing accrington brick? Thanks
It depends
If your in a protected area you can use a hot lime or a putty
If not a NHL 2 or a 3.5
On tight joints make sure you keep it damp for a few days
Never use any cement on accringtons
Hi, What sand should you use on Accrington's , Thanks
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd
@mickeytherye hi I use a brown grit sand It compacts perfect
If you look at one of my videos on different sands
Hi Glenn,
For a pointing mix, lots of people say mix by weight, but you recommend by volume?
I'm using Hanson 3.5 for a DIY english tuck pointing job.
I was going to use washed sharp sand. What would you recommend for a tucking pointing stopping mortar mix? Thanks
Hi if you check the data sheet it always says mix by volume
Just put hansons data sheet in Google
I use lafarge or Saint astier much better product
You will get people saying nhl is as hard as cement only use hot lime
I dont do tuck pointing I don't get asked for it
Join the fb group the fine art of repointing
@GMT Pointing Specialists Ltd Much appreciated.
What's better in your opinion about the lime you use?
Yeah, I certainly don't want lime to be hard as cement as my bricks are soft red rubbers. Perhaps I'll mix 4:1 to keep the mortar weak.
Facebook group joined much appreciated.
@plummetplum lafarge and saint astier have a higher free lime content less clay content
If you can use a nhl 2 that's higher free lime than nhl 3.5
Hi Glenn, thank you for posting these brilliant videos, really informative and well done, especially for DIYers full of doubts like myself! I'm just about to tackle the gable end wall on my victorian end terrace, it has been very badly repointed with cement, so lots of raking out first. I have a few questions if that's ok?
1. Is September ok to repoint, does it give it enough time to harden before winter, and can you repoint in the rain?
2. It's red brick house nr Nottingham, the wall is NE facing (slightly exposed to the elements), am I right in thinking NHL 3.5 1:3 mix like you have done here?
3. I read on one supplier that 6x25kg NHL 3.5 & 1x850kg bulk bag should be enough for 150sqm of repointing? Is
September is ok to point
Use a good quality lime
Lafarge or Saint astier I use
Use a soft and grit sand together
Well mixed
If the brick work at the bottom under the render is fine just repoint it
if not lime render it
Make sure you cover your work with damp Hessian
And use not to wet a mix as it will dry and shrink on narrow joints
Dampen the wall before you start to point and work from the top down pointing in the rain as long as it's not landing on your fresh pointing is fine I just work under a sheet
Hope I've answered all your questions
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you, that's great! Really appreciate the advice.
Brilliantly done very informative
Love your videos just a question can you do smooth point with nhl lime ?just want to know if it still works the same letting moisture in and out only asking because Iam not sure thanks
You would have to use a washed soft sand
It won't be smooth it will be slightly stippled as you don't want a skin on lime
If the joints are wide you need a sharp sand
What project are you doing
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd that's brilliant I've been a site brickie for over 30 years but my back gone I've started doing pointing jobs I've done a few with nhl 3.5 but it's. New learning curve for me
Many thanks for the reply
@@timclarke1791 any questions just ask or any videos you want me to put up just let me know
Just choose your NHL well there's good and bad NHL 3.5 on the market
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd that's brilliant would love see you pointing with nhl and washed sand .. I use saint astier 3.5 is that good stuff
6 weeks to cure and is it susceptible to freezing temperatures for all 6 weeks?
Depending on the time of year it's about 8 weeks at the moment
Keep it covered as long as possible
This weekend is supposed to be a hard frost so would need Hessian sacking
Bubble wrap or tarpaulin sheets
Very helpful thank you! One question , if I'm doing pointing for the first time on my 3' High x 20' stone foundation wall , can I mix smaller amount with a hand mixer to control the volume or would that be a waste of time? I'll need to back fill first before the pointing, thx again! Great video
Hi yes you can use a hand mixer
Just make sure each particle of sand is covered with lime before you add water
Backfill push small stones into the backfilled lime it stops the lime from cracking and you don't use as much lime
Love your channel. What ratio would you recommend on a 50’s semi? Originally done in lime (bright white) and redone over the years in Portland
@@jmabarker1 the ratio on the data sheet of most bags of good quality lime is 1:2.5
I do a 1:3
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks. Just had an agent from Conserv tell me their stuff is pre-mixed and ready to use with the addition of water. Does that sound right to you?
@@jmabarker1 I have just bought some Conserv NHL 3.5 material. There is a large bag of grits/gravel/sand substrate with a smaller separate sealed pouch of lime inside too. You mix the contents of the lime pouch into the substrate, add water, and it's good to go.
All the proportionate and relative quantities (ratios) are are pre-defined at the factory, so I am going to accurately measure one fifth of the lime (by weight) into one fifth of the substrate (by weight) at a time, simply to 'batch' it into smaller 5 kg hand mixed quantities. You could batch it down to 1/4, 1/3 or half, just keep the proportions correct.
That’s a long mix, so, back in the day, before everyone had a mixer and it was knocked up by hand, the tradesman would have had to do all that before starting work. I suppose the up side is it has a long open time. I remember, in the 50’s, a man doing some work for my mother, washed his sand before mixing. Is that still done?
Yes sand is prewashed before it's delivered
Mix usually takes 30 minutes
Years ago the would have had one or 2 guys doing a mix
But back then they used hot lime putty type material with ash and charcoal even gypsum straw in the mix
Still much better than cement though lol
Me personally I’d of had a sheet down when mixing I know this is a tutorial for beginners but too much cleaning up at end you’ll know yourself once it splashes out mixer and on road it’ll stain majority of where it lands my point is good rule of thought is preparation is key as it saves a lot of time come cleaning up especially out of a bell mixer but then like most we all learn from our mistakes can honestly say pal from my experiences it’s worth dishing out for a hopper mixer only real chance of spillage is dripping from chute ..
All in all tho pal was an interesting watch
Yes thanks I could of put a sheet down but it didn't splatter on to the road as I normally do a dryer mix
It's for begginers so tried to keep it simple
All input is good
If you have any videos put a link to it on a message so people can have a watch
Thanks
Can always use a dustbin lid to stop splashes
@@markanderson6969 yes you can the old rubber bin lids were the best or o gorilla bucket
but if you mix it properly it won't splatter
If it does wash it straight away it won't stain
Great advice thank you
See you got a pointsman found them really good hawks to use
Yeah I was given it to try I've used a pointing hod for 25 years so I prefer to use the hod as it keeps the moisture in the mix the pointsman I didn't like very much tbh
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd its ok for weather struck because of the lip but they are expensive for what they are
@@kierenboimufc5940
yeah thought I'd try it f
But I work with lime so I don't do wether struck
If you have any videos feel free to put a link
Ive seen somewhere on here but this was years back. Your work looks really nice i would like to to more of the historical work but at the moment just currently doing house bashing
@@kierenboimufc5940 thank you
I've only just started doing the videos on here I normally just put them on my FB page
But I will start adding more soon
I've looked at another video on mixing nhl lime
You mix in a bucket the same as the sand
He said lime is always done by weight and his is a 3 to 1 as well
I'm finding so many mixed messages by people working with lime
Hi there's different quality of lime
The lime I use is mixed by volume just download the data sheet it's free on Google
It's 1 lime 3 sand always put the binder first (lime)
Lime burns so be careful use PPE
Yes, you probably watched the guy with the dreads 😃 same as me and I had your question.
It by volume just read the data sheet
Lab testing to see what the strongest possible strength you can get from lime is done by weight as they use a powdered sand and a different type of sand
So people who think NHL is to hard at 9 mpa or newton's that's not what we get when we mix on site strongest is about 5 mpa after 200 days
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you! I've watched a dozen or more videos and yours is the first one that actually said look at the data sheet! Thanks again you solved my mystery!
Do you not use a mortar gun with your lime pointing? I repointing an internal wall with lime a few years ago and used te gun, had to make it much wetter than your mix so the gun would work. Much quicker and easier than using a hawk and tuck pointer. Only used lime twice in all my years as a builder, so far from an expert on it. The results of the wall I repointed were great.
Inside is different you use a softersand
The wetter the mix more chance of it shrinking
I work by myself so it's not quicker for me to use a gun
I've done it 25 years 5 different types of pointing guns
I still do it by hand the reasons for this is
I use a dryer mix
I use a mush sharpersand so won't go through a gun the sharper the sand the more it allows watter to wick away
You get a neater finish
And less shrinkage
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd , Cool, I try to stay away from pointing jobs, especially strap pointing like we have a lot of in Yorkshire. I take my hat off to you fellas who like doing it. Just checked out your video because I have just quoted to lime point a garden wall and rebuild another. I was double checking to see if its Hydralic or hydrated lime to quote for, haha, 30 years in the trade and used lime twice.
@@chrisbow1776 hydrated now a days is just used as a plasticiser for cement on newer bricks
If it's old bricks hand mades always use a hydraulic or hot lime used hot or cold
NHL lime ... when u chose lime numbers what is mean 3,5 .2,5 and l think 5 also house wall south hard stones built farm house
Its means the strength
Nh2 has high free lime content, and 3.5 has as well if you use a good quality one Saint astier or lafage
5 has more clay I never use nhl5
I just got a job come up were weve got to do a extension in pre mix 1000k bags . Would the lime take longer to go off as to of you was repointing a house ?
Is it a putty that it's premixed with
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd its in a jumbo bag your just chuck straight into mixer and add water
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd its all sealed its 450 pound for a jumbo bag
@@kierenboimufc5940 I'd find out what lime it is first
sounds like a NHL
Then if your adding water
If your bricklaying with it you wont be able to go as high with it in a day like cement bricklaying
If your pointing with it I'd of got it in smaller bags if you were going to point
As how can you know what consistency it is
Or if they have used a good high free lime content NHL
I always mix my own so I know what ratio it is
I like your content mate
What area you in
Thanks new to all this RUclips stuff I prefer to be behind the camera
I'm from North Wales not far from Chester
What area do you cover
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd I’m literally on the south coast near Brighton
A lot of salt in the air around here.
You have a new subscriber mate
You're a good bloke. 👍
I'm rendering my swimming pool can I use this 3-1 mix as a scratch coat with render mesh other wise I was going to do a 4-1 cement 1/4 lime sbr I'm finishing with a 2 pavier sand to 1 white cement 1/2limestone dust sbr
I have never done a swimming pool this is lime 1-3
3-1or 4-1 is cement based you would need to talk to someone that does that type of work to find out the best mix to use
Is this the same mix you use for building a stone and lime mortar wall?
depending on the stone yes
You can use a NHL putty or a hot mixed lime
Depends on weather and location
I'd personally never use putty or hotline in a bad weather area
What lime are you using thanks in advance good video
I'm using lafarge nhl 3.5
What was the ratio mix again?
1 : 3 I use for lafarge nhl3.5
You can do a 1:2.5 depends what your doing
What ever make of lime you use just go on Google you can download a free data sheet
It will tell you the free lime content and mix ratio
Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thanks mate. Just for repointing a sandstone cellar wall which let damp in recently. Wet lower to the ground.
Might make your mortar better with a forced action mixer.
Never had a problem with a bell mixer
And I mix on site have you tried picking a forced action mixer up and putting it in a van
At the end of a long day
Belle mixer £300 to £400
Forced action mixers
£2500 to £3500
Massive difference in price
These videos are for beginners
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd yep I use a baten to roll it up. I suppose it is a specialist bit of equipment. Not everyone's cup of tea.
@@benweaser9901 I had a Barron was really heavy when I do big jobs and I can secure it on site I use it but small jobs like this I use the belle mixer
And like the video says it for beginners to show them that lime takes a while to mix not a couple of minutes in a bucket
Looks like you don't wake up and decide to fix a wall that day. More like start mixing and hope the weather is good in a week or three.
I dont really understand that comment
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Meaning it takes a long time to have ready to use when you grew up around cement/concrete. BTW that was a very good video. Thank You for sharing and teaching.
@normhowes2975 yeah the video was to show it take 25 minutes to mix but you can do other things while it's mixing
Thanks for your kind words
You said 1 , 1 , 3 mix don't you mean 3 to 1 mix i have always known each number represents each part of the mix , ie 4 sand 1 lime 1 cement would be 4.1.1 cement/lime being the last number.
Yeah I said 1 1 3
It's another lime I put in that was a slip of the tongue I always try to say the binder first but its hard when I talk to people like yourself
I do a mix standard
1 hydraulic lime
Nhl 2 or 3.5 lafarge
3 sharp sand or a mix of sharp or soft must be washed no building sand
I also do a 1 1 3 mix
It's a 1 hydraulic 1 putty 3 sharp sand I must of edited that bit out as I just wanted to keep it as simple as I could
I did another video on mixing hydraulic lime
If I say 5 1 1 and put the sand first
I'm talking about cement mortar
5 sand 1 hydrated lime 1 cement
4 1 1 or 3 1 1 there is too much powder to the sand I'd never mix like that
Any questions just message me
I'll help you out
What do you mean talk to people like myself, and what is this other lime you put in as well, i,m not criticizing i thought the video was very informative its no good doing a training/information video if you don't like feedback if you were in front of trainees/students would you not ask { any questions } .
@horserider9578 people like yourself that say sand first not binder first
And don't mind people asking questions that's the whole idea of my channel
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltdwhat is the purpose of adding the extra free lime?
@Smuggler300 as the sandstone was very poor in places, it softens the compressive strength of the lime
What’s a good mix for granite pointing skews chimney etc nhl 5 ? What sand and type of sand what ratio ?
Always read the data sheet on what lime you use
Normally a 1:2.5 or 1:3
NHL 5 if it's in a high wind heavy rain area or if not you can use a 3.5
Always use a washed sharp sand you can compact it back well and it lets moisture in and out
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd it’s north east scotland so nhl5 1 sharp sand 3 building sand and one lime I was recommended.
@@shaunstewart5400 not building sand to many impurities
Read the data sheet free online
It will probably say 1:3 sharp or grit sand
You don't want to lock moisture into a chimney and that's what building sand will do
Search lime suppliers near me and they will tell you what local washed sharp sand is the best for you to use
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok what about the mix ratio what would be best then ? Just all washed sharp sand yes?
Please used a wireless body mic because when you walk away from cam mic. We the audience can't hear a word you're saying. I'm definitely want to hear every word.
Ok can you recommend one that's cheap as I do this free
If you press cc on the video it puts subtitles on it gets 95% of the words I say lol
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Boya BX-XM6 wireless mics.
@onanysundrymule3144 OK thanks ill have a look at them
Don't stick your hand in the mixer, just someones head. Lol.
the mast is a must, i try to hold my breath run away take another breath and repeat, a mask saves this time, lime is nasty stuff
Yeah bad for lungs and eyes
Good mix but no way cud spend that long mixing if building stone ..mixes very well if water in first ..three sand one lime away U go.
@user-dx2td9ft6p totally disagrees if you read the data sheet it tells you
Just because you do it that way doesn't make it right
All my videos are for teaching beginners, so I'm teaching them the correct way