I used to spend days doing lead work like that when I was as Plumber, it’s all roofers etc now I guess, a real skill, and still enjoy seeing work I did years ago still looking great. 👍
It is a real pleasure to watch a real professional at work, gives Great joy. Not like that cowboy, mister slice and dice, and a tube of silicone cowboy.
I'm a roofer so I can do nice lead work but when it comes to aprons and back gutters and valley ends etc we depend on good lead welders like yourself to make our jobs . Amazing mate
Your excellent. My former trade was a panel beater, i changed to see how I'd do at roofing, got to do lead work, and I found I had a touch for it from shaping metal with a hammer and dolly, from my body work days. I used to braze very light metal with oxygen an acetylene tiny flame. So I'm going to practice lead welding. Great learning videos 👌
I am a carpenter in New Zealand tht has been throwen onto a lead flashing job as there is no one else tht can do it die to labour supply issues. Loving it and thinking of up skillng and do this full time. It is paying three times my current charge out rate. Great video, I learnt a hell of a lot.
Superb, working on my lead work but I'm making alot of mistakes but enjoy doing it never had a call back but I just stick to valleys, skews and aprons would like to get into lead burning hats of to the pros that do this
Is the wood roll mitre cut set right on the front edge of the drip or is it supposed to sit back a bit? And is it always cut at 45 °? And how much material do you aim to have protruding the drip edge prior to bossing the wood roll ends. Before it’s trimmed. And then what size d’ya trim it back to, like 70 mm or something? If you had a standard timber deck do you have only a 25 mm of timber over the fascias to carry the lead sheet into the gutter or do you have more like 45-50 mm bringing you about halfway into the gutter? Would you have drip battens screwed to a finished deck or d’ya prefer the ply to be finished in one piece all the way into the gutter? And so avoiding seeing a line where the two timbers would join at the roof edge? I hope I’m clear with these questions. One more. I’d like to see you boss the rear internal corners. Bothe under and over. Or would u always burn the overcloak? It’s alot to dress over isn’t it?
Yes it’s very important that the front of the wood roll goes right to the front edge. It’s not set back at all. I Always cut mine to 45 degrees but you don’t have to. It can be steeper if you like. But not anymore shallow. And I generally aim to have 150mm of lead sailing past the front edge. This makes it easier to boss the roll ends. And then yes trimmed back to around 75 mm or 50 mm. I usually put a tile batten around to give me my drip edge. 25 mm is fine for going into the gutter. Well actually on the vid I’m currently working on all the backs of the rolls have been bossed. Although I would usually cut and burn them.
I have lead flashing on top of my downstairs window and one of the telecom engineers have lent their ladder against my lead,leaving dents. Is there any way of getting dents out of lead, do you have any videos on this?
@@slbleadworks works a treat, get the blue and white ones from Screwfix, cheap as chips then just cut them with a wood saw. Simple to do and they act as setting sticks flip them over you got your mallet. Good luck and great vid.
Panic lol😳😂. Well luckily I haven’t split once since my apprentice days. Hope I haven’t spoken too soon. It depends how bad and where the split is. But you can fill it in with weld and then smooth it off to hide the weld.
Hey Stuart nice work as always. Have you got any detail on how to cut/weld the other ends of the rolls against an upstand for example? I keep practicing bits but it's become and expensive hobby haha. Happy doing stuff flat but anything incline or vertical always ends up in a puddle 🤣
Hi Lee thank you glad your enjoying the vids. I haven’t got any vids on how to cut the back of the roll yet. But I can try and make one soon hopefully. Some advice I’d give with any vertical welding. Is to weld down from the top first with a welding rod. Then come back up from the bottom. It’s so much easier than just coming straight up from the bottom. Just make sure you’ve got a low flame.
@slb lead works Thanks ever so much for your advice. I'm OK with flashings and general roof stuff but anything welded we always had an old lead guy in sadly he's retired now. Always said its a dying trade with most just wanting grp or felt as cheap alternatives but I've always been fascinated and admired the traditional ways. I've done a few aprons and back gutters but have done them on the safety of a bench lol love doing it but don't want to be practicing new stuff on people's jobs. But keep up the great work and thanks again for taking the time to share the vids
Your stretching with a rubber mallet, not bossing. Your skil is ok but not how the craft is done. And hitting your main tools with a hammer, that's why they damage, should be done with a hitting mallet.
Oh really. To he honest I’ve only started heating roll ends up in the last couple of years. It started on a big code 6 flat roof I was doing. Just made it so much easier.
@@tonyb7779 I love seeing all the old leadwork. Proper skills. I look at some things and think wow. My regret is that I never been shown how to boss a lead finial. Is that something you used to do ?.
When I was an apprentice back in 1960 - 65 we had at tech hard and soft metals and a teacher only for lead !!!! but he is doing it all wrong !!!!! no rubber hammer !!!!!! use only box wood tools !!!!!
Love watching these videos. Proper craftsmanship so had to subscribe
Thank you I really appreciate it. And thanks for watching.
Man your a living artisan! Much respect! I plan on doing this to the top of my bay windows! The lead looks like it needs some love after 200 years
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Great job Stuart
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I used to spend days doing lead work like that when I was as Plumber, it’s all roofers etc now I guess, a real skill, and still enjoy seeing work I did years ago still looking great. 👍
Thank you . I’ve been working with lead for 24 years and still enjoy it now
I love watching Craftsman at work
These Skills and knowledge is unparalleled .
I really hope he passes it on to the next generation
Thank you. I hope your still enjoying the vids ?.
Well I’ll see if my son is interested in learning the trade. But at the moment he wants to be an accountant.
It is a real pleasure to watch a real professional at work, gives Great joy. Not like that cowboy, mister slice and dice, and a tube of silicone cowboy.
Thank you so much. I’m glad you enjoyed the vid.
Thanks for watching.
I'm a roofer so I can do nice lead work but when it comes to aprons and back gutters and valley ends etc we depend on good lead welders like yourself to make our jobs . Amazing mate
Thank you. And thanks for watching the vid.
got questions for you?
Your excellent. My former trade was a panel beater, i changed to see how I'd do at roofing, got to do lead work, and I found I had a touch for it from shaping metal with a hammer and dolly, from my body work days. I used to braze very light metal with oxygen an acetylene tiny flame. So I'm going to practice lead welding. Great learning videos 👌
Thank you I’m glad your enjoying the vids and good luck with your lead working career.
Addicted viewing with so many great tips.
Thanks once again
Your welcome and thank you.
Thanks for putting up that video of bossing roll end. You make it look so easy.Sign of a Pro.
Thank you
I am a carpenter in New Zealand tht has been throwen onto a lead flashing job as there is no one else tht can do it die to labour supply issues. Loving it and thinking of up skillng and do this full time. It is paying three times my current charge out rate.
Great video, I learnt a hell of a lot.
Thank you I’m glad you learned something from it.
Hi, fascinating as ever. What do you use the heat for? It looks like you’re 'shrinking' the lead. Have you ever 'torn through' the sheet?
Thank you. I use the heat to soften the lead to help it move.
And yes I have torn through. Mostly in my apprenticeship days thankfully 😳😂
@slbleadworks nice work mate.
Can you recommend a leadworking course or and good way to get started in the leadwork trade.
Thanks
Superb, working on my lead work but I'm making alot of mistakes but enjoy doing it never had a call back but I just stick to valleys, skews and aprons would like to get into lead burning hats of to the pros that do this
Thank you. Just keep doing what your doing and it will become like second nature.
Lovely work ,looks a really nice build
Thank you. It was a nice job to be fair. Just quite far away. But you have to go where the work is
Is the wood roll mitre cut set right on the front edge of the drip or is it supposed to sit back a bit? And is it always cut at 45 °?
And how much material do you aim to have protruding the drip edge prior to bossing the wood roll ends. Before it’s trimmed. And then what size d’ya trim it back to, like 70 mm or something?
If you had a standard timber deck do you have only a 25 mm of timber over the fascias to carry the lead sheet into the gutter or do you have more like 45-50 mm bringing you about halfway into the gutter? Would you have drip battens screwed to a finished deck or d’ya prefer the ply to be finished in one piece all the way into the gutter? And so avoiding seeing a line where the two timbers would join at the roof edge? I hope I’m clear with these questions.
One more. I’d like to see you boss the rear internal corners. Bothe under and over. Or would u always burn the overcloak? It’s alot to dress over isn’t it?
Yes it’s very important that the front of the wood roll goes right to the front edge. It’s not set back at all. I Always cut mine to 45 degrees but you don’t have to. It can be steeper if you like. But not anymore shallow.
And I generally aim to have 150mm of lead sailing past the front edge. This makes it easier to boss the roll ends.
And then yes trimmed back to around 75 mm or 50 mm. I usually put a tile batten around to give me my drip edge. 25 mm is fine for going into the gutter.
Well actually on the vid I’m currently working on all the backs of the rolls have been bossed. Although I would usually cut and burn them.
@@slbleadworks many thanks for taking the time to reply. All very useful and helpful stuff. Keep on truckin’.
Another great job, always alot of dressing on the end roll
Thank you. Yes but I must admit I quite enjoy doing them.
Nice work👍👍
Thank you
I have lead flashing on top of my downstairs window and one of the telecom engineers have lent their ladder against my lead,leaving dents. Is there any way of getting dents out of lead, do you have any videos on this?
Can you send me a pic on Instagram
Makes it look so easy
Thank you. The heat really helps. Just be gentle .
Nice job again. Have you ever put up a video of bossed lead ridge into a chimney stack/wall?
Thank you. No not yet. But maybe in the future.
Lovely job!
Thank you
I purchased 2 rubber mallets and cut the ends at 45 degrees leaving a 1cm blade,
I cut 1 vertical and 1 horizontal.
They are a god send for rolls.
I’ve seen another lead worker that’s done that. I’ll have to give it a try.
@@slbleadworks works a treat, get the blue and white ones from Screwfix, cheap as chips then just cut them with a wood saw.
Simple to do and they act as setting sticks flip them over you got your mallet.
Good luck and great vid.
What width of lead do you use for that?
I can’t remember exactly but it’s usually around 800 code 5.
Nice work. What do you do if you split it?
Panic lol😳😂. Well luckily I haven’t split once since my apprentice days. Hope I haven’t spoken too soon. It depends how bad and where the split is. But you can fill it in with weld and then smooth it off to hide the weld.
Nice, do you find it easier to have a lower angle on the wood roll?
I usually cut them at 45 degrees. Definitely much easier than a steeper angle.
Thanks, much appreciated , keep up the videos,
Hello mate,
can you make a video on vertical welding?
Thanks
Yes no problem. I’ve got one coming up soon
Where do you get that blow torch from mate ?
It’s from a plumbers merchant. Makes life so much easier
Quality 👍
Wow you know you’re stuff 👏👏👏👏
Thank you and thanks for watching the vid
Must get myself a small rubber mallet 🤙👋☘️🇮🇪
Yes definitely. I use Thor 952. It’s even better if you can round the edges
Nice work. Is that mallet rubber or ebonite?
Thank you. It’s a rubber mallet that I’m using.
Hey Stuart nice work as always. Have you got any detail on how to cut/weld the other ends of the rolls against an upstand for example? I keep practicing bits but it's become and expensive hobby haha. Happy doing stuff flat but anything incline or vertical always ends up in a puddle 🤣
Hi Lee thank you glad your enjoying the vids.
I haven’t got any vids on how to cut the back of the roll yet. But I can try and make one soon hopefully. Some advice I’d give with any vertical welding. Is to weld down from the top first with a welding rod. Then come back up from the bottom. It’s so much easier than just coming straight up from the bottom. Just make sure you’ve got a low flame.
@slb lead works Thanks ever so much for your advice. I'm OK with flashings and general roof stuff but anything welded we always had an old lead guy in sadly he's retired now. Always said its a dying trade with most just wanting grp or felt as cheap alternatives but I've always been fascinated and admired the traditional ways. I've done a few aprons and back gutters but have done them on the safety of a bench lol love doing it but don't want to be practicing new stuff on people's jobs. But keep up the great work and thanks again for taking the time to share the vids
I think I have a clip of this on my expansion joint gutter bay vid
@@cba1424 no worries thanks for commenting it helps the channel grow.
@slb lead works Get them paid adverts going and retire lol
Thank u
Thanks for watching
yo good work faster than me i just fucked one of them up twice i like the torch
Thank you. Just need to take your time with it and you’ll master it.
I also use a rubber mallet, it's perfect for bossing lead.
Yep. I’ve rounded mine off too to take away the sharp edges
Your stretching with a rubber mallet, not bossing. Your skil is ok but not how the craft is done. And hitting your main tools with a hammer, that's why they damage, should be done with a hitting mallet.
Thanks for watching
Not for the amateur , or faint hearted . ☺
I feel like Ive just seen a miracle compared to the speed i do them
I think the heat really helps. It makes it a lot less effort.
I would have immediately failed my City & Guilds using a torch to soften lead and that looks like 7lb lead instead of the 4lb we were made to use.
Oh really. To he honest I’ve only started heating roll ends up in the last couple of years. It started on a big code 6 flat roof I was doing. Just made it so much easier.
@@slbleadworks I agree. In my days (1960s) we were never allowed to do anything the easy way. Bloody old timers for you.
@@tonyb7779 I love seeing all the old leadwork. Proper skills. I look at some things and think wow.
My regret is that I never been shown how to boss a lead finial. Is that something you used to do ?.
Now to figure out how to stop the dodgy scrappers ripping it off the roof & weighing it in 🤷
Who ever thinks that up will be laughing all the way to the bank.
When I was an apprentice back in 1960 - 65 we had at tech hard and soft metals and a teacher only for lead !!!! but he is doing it all wrong !!!!! no rubber hammer !!!!!! use only box wood tools !!!!!
I used to have a lovely wooden bossing mallet.