Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.
That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.
As a soldering pro I very much approve of this. Your method is pretty much foolproof. A tip: have some molten solder on the soldering iron tip to act as a heat conductor. That way you avoid the long heat up times like you had in your example.
for me as someone who has never done anything in life in terms of electronics this is a very important video for me to watch at 4 am instead of sleeping yes :)
I bought a soldering station last year. It changed my whole view on soldering. It never takes that long to heat up, and it is amazing how easy it is to solder now. Also, always use small solder. It heats up and melts faster and makes life easier. Great video as always.
@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!
@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.
Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.
You “tin” the tip of your iron to help avoid corrosion when not in use. You also tin the tip to improve heat conductivity. You’ll notice the difference when applying solder to a non-tinned tip vs a tinned one. The joining of the wire in this video was perfect technique, which I’m totally stealing. The reason it was taking so long for the flux to activate was that the wire was conducting away the heat from the solder gun. The point where the two objects being soldered meet is called a “joint”. You should apply heat to the joint, and apply solder to where the solder gun and the joint meet. This technique will help transfer heat to the joint faster, getting ahead of the heat dissipation the wires introduce. Great video. Thank you for making it.
@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together. The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.
I like the reference to your grandfather. I’m out in the shop tonight soldering some wires and thought I’d just do a RUclips search to see what other guys are doing. I’m actually using my grandfather’s old Weller gun and I use the exact same method as you. Great video for those who are attempting to solder wires for the first time!
If you’re going to solder wires in a car or truck, just be sure it isn’t in a harness with any movement at all, since soldering makes the wire end more brittle right near the joint. You’ll notice almost all wire connections are crimped from the factory in an automobile because of vibration, for this reason.
If you want to solder faster use wet tip (wet with solder), it will eliminate micro gap and transfer the heat faster onto the wire. That way you wont melt the wire.
The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently
I've had terrible luck soldering wires together, and after watching this video, I can see why I've failed !! Thank you very much for taking the time to make it. VERY informative and well done. Bob in Grand Rapids, MI
Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult
Have to agree with some of the comments below. Although Cody has done an excellent job connecting two wires, and one that, for most purposes, will be quite serviceable, there is no mechanical connection. I was a certified in the Air Force for high reliability soldering, and the first rule for soldering anything is to ensure a strong mechanical connection, since solder has very little physical strength to it. The linesman splice is preferable. Good job Cody!
Nice joint! And, thanks for suggesting the dielectric silicon grease. It should be noted that quite often, the joint will be made between either two long pieces of wire or two wires that may already be joined to something at the other ends, so the shrink tubing can't be slipped on easily or at all, after the soldering is done. There are two ways to address this: One way is to put an appropriate length of shrink tubing onto one of the wires before soldering, but it should be slid well away from the site of the soldering or it will shrink and not slide over the joint. The other way is to get some self-fusing electrical tape to wrap around the joint after the soldering is done. This may not always be the best method, but sometimes may be the method of choice... especially if one is simply soldering a wire to a connector of some sort, or "oops! I forgot to put the shrink tubing on before applying the solder.". Best wishes.
As a mechanic I really like that you are using information passed down to you from your granddad, it is really cool to know that this information is legit because of that
I spent a semester in MIL-spec soldering. You never untwist stranded wire. Tin both ends, bend a hook in each end, hook them on each other, flow some solder. Far stronger than this mess in the video. If you really want something awesome, get some 63/37 eutectic solder and you’ll be in heaven.
If the other ends of the wires are permanently attached to devices, don't forget, step 1 is to thread the shrink tubing on first. If you have to cut apart your tediously soldered wiring harness once you won't likely forget again. The silicone is a great idea I wasn't aware of.
I don’t use a fancy new gun, I have my grandfathers soldering iron kit, with the old stile wands that look like a wood burner. A fine tipped one and a bulky one. He was a master electrician and used them for decades, now I use them, both still work great.
Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆
@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment that's the wannabe do it all the "it's not dumb if it works"
The reason you tin the iron before touching the connection is so the heat can transfer better to the wires that you are soldering. There’s the potential of way more hot surface area (to melt the solder on top of the wires) when the solder is on the iron as opposed to just having the solderless iron try and heat up the wires
What you just did will work perfectly fine for most applications. But if you're interested in real strong splices, bare back the wires an inch or so, meet them, bend them 90 degrees, then twist them together in opposite directions. It's called a western union splice, the harder you pull on it the tighter it gets (until it breaks). Also the preferred spot to add solder is directly between the iron and the wire. And soldering wires together you don't really need paste flux as long as you use flux core (AKA rosin core) solder. And you don't want solder to flow into the insulation of the wire. But I was taught mil-spec soldering you don't need to get that fancy for general purpose stuff :)
@@dwaynemcallister7231 2 year old comment wow haha. That could be true. I'm not sure. We used it for stranded in school. But either way it works :). The main thing I was taught is that it doesn't really matter what form of splice you use, it has to be inspectable. Meaning you have to be able to see the adhesion of the solder joint and not just a blob of solder, and if the solder wicks up into the insulation it's no longer inspectable.
I worked as an electrician and this method is so time consuming and, in 99.9% of the jobs, unwarranted that titling it "Like a pro" is pretty funny. More like: "How to solder wires like a control freak". I'd recommend a pen style soldering tool, they are easier to handle, lighter and less likely to break than a big solder gun, they are wireless too so you aren't limited by cable lengths. Also, shrink tubes are enough to insulate the wire most of the times, unless they are gonna be directly exposed and you live in an area really damp and with frequent winds that rattle the cable all day, and if you leave the wire in those conditions, that silicone won't do anything anyways. Also, we just used a plain old lighter to shrink them, no need to add yet another tool when you're trying to solder hundreds of wires, it just takes time and costs even more than just something you can put in your pocket.
Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.
Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁
Cody, in practice any application where there is a chance for wire movement it is better to use crimp connectors. In the marine and aircraft industry soldering wires is not allowed unless the wire is supported and not allowed to move. There is no doubt that a solder connection provides the best connection. It come down to the movement of the wires. Also if you are using core solder there is no need to use paste on the wires. Never use acid core solder on electrical connections either
Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!
It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.
Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?
You can also use the side of the soldering iron (gun in your case) to shrink the tubing. That is what I use and it works just fine. Just rub it over the top of the tubing - yup, rub it.
Not too shabby for an amateur. Here are a few tips for beginners: Since the other ends of the wires are likely connected to something, you may want to slip the heat shrink material down one wire before soldering. WS was lucky and had an open end to do this with. Flux isn't always needed, but is helpful to promote good solder flow. Good quality solder is a plus. Steer away from solder that has an acid base. That is a specialized type and not used for normal solder jobs.
I do agree with you on how to heat shrink tube. I have very close friends of mine that are Master mechanics and they even have some sort of special certificate for automotive wiring. When a solder a connection and put a piece of shrink tube on all of them use a cigarette lighter. I tried that a few times and it never worked out well for me. Also you do the same thing that I do before shrinking a tube around it. We just use different brands of dielectric grease. I'm definitely going to pick up a bottle of what you were using. I have the shop size dielectric grease it comes in a tube. that brush that you have I buy them and big bags from harbor freight. I'm glad to see that you use the soldering iron that you did. I have the same sort of one as yours and really never figured out how to use it correctly. It was my father's and it's almost as old as I am and that's saying something. I never did ask him to show me how to use it. I always had a cheap one from radio shack. I enjoyed your video and look forward to watching other ones.
As a little note, clean off the rosin flux with rubbing alcohol before you put the shrink tubing on. The rosin is acidic and will eventually eat through the wires.
You can find heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. It oozes out and seals at the edge. Also I like to get a high shrink ratio so its more versatile, such as soldering two wires on one side to a single wire on the other. That way a larger tube can shrink around the single wire, yet be large enough to slide over the two wires.
For love nor money, there’s no way I could solder properly even with tin solder containing flux. This video is a godsend and I’m well on my way to finishing my new Corvette Head Unit connections. Thank you so very much!
@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to
While not wrong in cases where load on wire is not a big concern this is fine. Ford actually foregoes solder and just uses shrink wrap. Their thought process being its easier and faster to replace shrink wrap than the whole soldering process or so I guess. For context sake remember that in a car it's suppose to last multiple repairs with today's electronics.
fun fact: It took roughly 60 years for wire splice technology to go from simple WU splices, to soldered WU splice, "shotgun" twist sleeves, to the Nicopress sleeves , developed just before WWII, to be eclipsed by IDC connectors used today, such as B-connectors, UG/UY/UR, Picabond/TelSplice... Much of the innovation can be traced directly to Bell Labs research, and the telephone industry looking for the lowest loss/easiest/cheapest way to join two wires together.
That's a really great way to ensure joins won't break, but unfortunately it's a bit unrealistic in a lot of scenarios wherethe length of this solder joints is sometimes the whole wire length we have to work. In those cases what i do is try to peel the cables around the same length, make a cross, and twist them in opposite directions, which makes for a pretty solid joint as well in very tight spaces. I'd like to try and apply what was shown here though.
Hey Cody, while it can't hurt, the use of flux paste with rosin core solder in this type of soldering is redundant. Flux paste should be used when existing connections are re-exposed to heat, such as in the case of soldering adjacent connectors, etc. Flux inhibits oxidation at the site of heating, which results in better connections. Also, flux should be removed following soldering so as to minimize corrosion. A lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol are adequate for this application. Dielectric grease is a corrosion inhibitor, so it's great for exposed electrical connections. Especially the mechanical type, such as a lug and bolt. Properly applied, hear shrink tubing will seal connections, and it's also optional in this application. It should be noted that solder and flux are available for specialized purposed, and that plumbing flux and solder should not be used to solder electrical connections. Lastly, do not directly touch solder to the iron. This is the reason why it took so long to initially heat the conductors. Heat the leads, then touch the solder to the leads to "flow" solder across the connection. Wipe any flux and solder residue from the tip of the iron, and repeat. Great video, as usual. Keep up the great work.
As I understand it, Cody was right to want to tin the iron. Though he ended up keeping a blob of solder on the iron. To tin, he needed to apply the solder then flick excess off, thus keeping a thin layer on iron only.
I know you should use proper flux for the proper job but I've used an old tin can (or steel? not sure) of nokorode that's been in the family since my great grandfather, and while there's still flux left in there we probably won't buy anything new because it does the job and it does it really well, provided you clean up afterwards (isopropyl and a nail brush). The only issue with it is the fact the binder is a really nasty thick grease, but honestly I'd rather take that over the horrible liquid flux that's really popular, I should also say I would probably get real electronics flux paste if it was sold where I live, but it isn't so no luck on that front.
A 20+ yr Electronics Tech that solders 300 pin micro connectors for the F18 reviewed my solder job following your video and said "your solder joint looks d@#n good!". Thanks, it had been a couple decades since i tried last and so was hesitant. I bought a little helping hands with alligator hands and magnifier at #harborfreight for dirt cheap like 5$ i think. I ended up adding the shrink tube on the alligator clips after the 1st round because they do bite into the wire that was a great idea. Thank you to you and your granddad who took time to teach you things in life
You don’t need the silicone paste with shrink tubing. It keeps the glue from tubing from sealing properly. Only use silicone on stuff not shrink tubed. Like spade but connectors
At 3:43 Grandad was right. Wet your tip with a little solder to help transfer the heat from the tip to the joint more efficiently. Your tip was still a little dry and needed more solder where it met the wire. That's why it took so long and why your wire turned black.
It's actually a good idea to touch the soldering iron tip so there is a thermal connection between the wire and the soldering iron. After there is a good thermal connection feed the solder into the wire and the solder will wick through the wire. For the rest it's a good video, I like the silicone trick
I enjoyed this video a lot. I am 72 and 50 years ago I was rebuilding these small block engines. Its nice to see I was doing it right and you still are.
U did a great job. I was unfamiliar with how to solder electrical wires for my headlight on my silverado. Your demonstration was very clear and precise. Thank u.
People need to be wary of any youtube video that declares itself as 'how to do something like a Pro', because 99% are not done by pros, always check the comments for an outcry. Speaking as a Pro, that was pretty good, except most QA instructions will instruct you to twist the wire or do a lineman's splice, what you are doing there has no mechanical integrity. Well done on adding dielectric grease, that's essential. Just to add, you can also use adhesive lined heatshrink for extra sealing, and most solder has a flux core already.
Actually adding the dielectric grease helps retain the tube’s 99.99% seal around the bare wires before they were stripped. using heat shrink alone wouldnt be enough to maintain that seal as there would still be possible air gaps.. i wont explain what the dangers of air gaps are since you seem to “think” you know better..
Another tip, is to use silicone insulated wire when ever you can. Plastic insulated wires can melt while you're soldering or using the heat gun (especially true with very thin wires). Plus, the waterproofing and general heft between silicone and shrink tubing is much better than with plastic. Wire splicing is my arch nemesis. I mostly deal with very thin wires (I build drones), and I hate splicing. Your method with splaying the strands of both wires was an eye opener for me! I usually wet both ends first, then lie them next to each other or butt-solder them. This is *much* better.
I've had an instant Weller since 1969....... 1. You're using the 'edge', not the face of the tip [90 degree wrong] 2. You DO wet the tip with solder - massively increases heat transfer, to the work 3. Took far to long to do it - 5 seconds about right
I've been a subscriber from early on and you are a very good teacher of things,very good instruction, to the point, well spoken.very informative and helpful. Great job
Great job, lots of patience in your explanations and the video was nice and clear. Basically, add the shrink tube prior to soldering and keep it far enough away so it doesn’t start to shrink from the work being done..then slide it into place later.
Why did you use the flux? I was taught when I was in school shop class that I did not need flux for electrical wiring and the reason for that was the electrial soder had flux in it.
David Lingelbach yeah if your using the correct solder for electrical, rosin core typically. You do not need flux. If you do use flux it's a good idea to clean the joint once cooled because certain flux can actually cause corrosion in the joint overtime
I've found having liquid solder flux is handy for electrical work, sometimes you need a bit more flux than what's in the solder itself, especially if your iron tip and/or exposed wires have a bit of oxidation. The liquid flux soaks in between the strands of multi-strand wire better than the paste.
Joe Van Cleave yes especially if you have aged components with steel lead wires (like most), if I do any through hole work I'll use rosin flux pen if I have it, if I'm doing surface mount it will be that other stuff with non rosin solder or solder paste with flux in it, it's certainly not a sure thing to use row in core solder for everything but for most people it is adequate but not optimal without additional flux, for joining clean new wires like the demo it would certainly suffice
It's not terrible to touch the soldering iron briefly while waiting for the wire to heat up. The small blob will help conduct heat to the wires faster.
Nice tip about speeding the fibers. It is much smaller joint than the "Western Union Joint" I usually use. By "tinning" it, allows more heat flow from the iron to the wires.
Let me explain a few things... 1. Tinning the tip of the iron is done for a couple of reasons. First is because as the iron remains heated, corrosion forms on the surface of the hot solder. Second is to tin it so you have extra solder to wipe off the corroded solder just like he very poorly wiped it on the sponge. Corroded solder should have come off onto the sponge leaving freshsolder behind. Third, you need a proper amount of solder for sufficient heat transfer. His wires took so long to heat up because he didnt have enough solder on his iron. By having a larger fluid surface, you come into more contact with the wires surface faster than pressing just the iron. Notice how once he started adding more solder it wicked up the wires and how once it was 90% coated he was able to reflow it super fast? Proper amount of solder makes for faster heat transfer. 2. Joining method doesnt matter as much as how well the solder flows into the wires. If the wires are properly soldered (regardless of joining method) they will be very difficult to pull apart. If they pull apart easy, its likely a cold solder joint or not enough solder/flowed solder. 3. The flux he used is 100%unnecessary if the wires are clean and the solder already has a flux core. However if youre having difficulty creating a good flow of solder, the flux will help tremendously.
Very well rounded information Fun Fact During manufacturing the cans have been Tempered Hardened for durability A soldering iron can’t produce the temperature to melt the hardened tin hence the need to Tin prior to Soldering
I don't recommend the big Weller guns for small soldering jobs. the more old fashioned soldering irons work just fine for small wires and such. The Weller's do work well for most things tho, but they have too much heat for some jobs.
@Leon thecat yep I have several irons and guns. The right tool for the job at hand does wonders. oh, the little drop of solder on the tip gives better heat transfer. you should always get the wires to melt the solder tho for the actual soldering job.
Chuck A's reply hit it on the head. Use the Lineman's Splice and do it to NASA specs and you'll have a good mechanical joint that is secured with the solder. Cody, your joint is depending on the solder to hold it together which could fail.
Lineman Splice is for solid wire. It is much weaker on a stranded wire than on a solid core. The weak point isn't the bind, obviously, it's the stranded wire itself. It's an overkill. Entirely valid and a fantastic bind, but overkill nonetheless
Oh I know, but it doesn't change the fact that weak point becomes the untinned stranded part, making it redundant. The tension resistance of stranded wire is less than what the actual splice will give you. Making a bulky solid splice may sometimes do more harm than good if you think about it (automotive comes to mind) Don't get me wrong, I think mastering the Nasa spec splice is a wonderfull skill to have. I would definitly encourage anyone to master it. I guess my main point is that Cody did a pretty solid splice that will last and do the intended job it's meant to do.
I'd love you to find someone that tins wires for a car or trailer, I've done hundreds or remote start/ alarms as well as other automotive installations and I can tell you that I've never had a single vehicle come back because of a solder issue, you people mentioning NASA like your building something for space.... give me a break ps using the right solder for electrical work makes all the difference in the world
4:07 Yes, you do. It melts a lot faster that way, and you don't overheat the thing being soldered. As soon as the wires are hot enough, the solder will flow right in from the tip of the iron.
Wow! Put ten people in a room and ask them to demonstrate their method of joining two wires and you'll probably get any number of variations covering from one end of the spectrum to the other. The only constant will be that each person is convinced that their way is the "right way". Sometimes, it boils down to simply making a repair with what you have and where you are at the time of needed repair and sometimes you are in your shop with the tools and time to make a better job of it. Cody simply showed you a decent way that works - be glad!
1. Live in a pool (create a flow of solder and keep it liquid) 2. Solder will travel to the heat once the pool is formed 3. Don't use too much heat 4. Don't get the solder in the insulation from using too much solder (check by bending the wire, you'll know if it's stiff).
we are watching you live in the waiting room, thank you for creative commons and one of my viewers actually knows you. now i am subbed, will check out more!
Thank you for showing us. But why don't you place the heat shrink tube over the wire first, then pulled to the one side of the cable, then solder the wire together? Regards Gary Tangeman
because the wire was free on either side so he didnt have to. if this was a real connection he was making then yes u would put the heat shrink first to one side
Not true. Rosin flux is not corrosive. I have aviation radios from the 1940's and 1950's with rosin flux residue on them: the solder joints are still fine after 3/4 century. You are confusing rosin flux with acid flux, used for plumbing work.
You said to not touch the solder to the iron. When I’ve seen people put the solder on the iron first, then put it on the wire and heat it, but can’t remember if they used flux or not. This is so confusing. Your way seemed good though. I’m just a perfectionist so until I understand the exact science of why to do it one way over the other I cannot commit on any single method. The way you joined the wires together before soldering though is definitely the best way. Thank you.
@@waltermercado2937 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@jordanhaslam9269 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@Anyone700 "Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning" yes, he mentioned that in his video, I'm not sure why you're repeating it
Solid! I just wanted to share with you somthing because you helped me and this might help you! I seen your video before but I could never get the solder to work because I couldn't find the proper flux. Turns out I had this old masters flux for stained glass windows. I thought about it, then said to myself "wires are copper and stained glass windows are fused from using copper" sure enough it worked and held the tires perfect! I know because as you said plumbers flux won't work and I tried that, so in this case at least it will either work or not! Thiers no inbetween! Cheers hope this might help!
Tip 1, get a soldering Iron not a gun. make sure it's 25 watts at least. Chisel tips are wonderful. Tip 2, flux is built into most electronics solder so you don't need to use flux before hand.
Theres alot more to consider when choosing solder such as what your wire is made out of along with other factors in this process dont get me wrong what you did will definitely do the job. Im an aircraft electrician so my expertise is really honed in on this topic. All in all youve achieved the result you are looking for though
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Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.
That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.
Slip the shrink tube on before you make the connection in case you can’t slide it over an end of the wire! Just a tip!
can you put your belt up on the store?
Great video.. I myself switched to using the self silicone shrink tube.. It works great with one less step.. Peace!!
For me the hardest part of wire soldering is to remember put shrink tube before soldering those two wires.
AND keep it far enough away from the soldering job that it doesn't shrink up before you can use it...! >_
@@simonbelanger3923 ⛪
Been there brother.
Ha ha, I’ve done that a few times myself...very annoying.
@@simonbelanger3923 Exactly, and normally you don´t solder a black wire ( - ) together with a red wire (+) ... :)
Always connect black and red wires. Can never go wrong.
That is correct
kaboom
Ofcourse
Looks like an led trailer light plug/harness so it wouldn't matter
Lol thats pro
As a soldering pro I very much approve of this. Your method is pretty much foolproof. A tip: have some molten solder on the soldering iron tip to act as a heat conductor. That way you avoid the long heat up times like you had in your example.
3:44
"grand dad said" then mumble..... Tin it. Is all.i got
for me as someone who has never done anything in life in terms of electronics this is a very important video for me to watch at 4 am instead of sleeping yes :)
Same, because you never know, amirite?💫
@@Fgbjdhdbccvx we are all subject to the algorithm
I am literally watching this at 4:36 am after coming home drunk from a party in a dormitory
4:15 am ... so close
this info is useful for fixing copper pipes, too
I bought a soldering station last year. It changed my whole view on soldering. It never takes that long to heat up, and it is amazing how easy it is to solder now. Also, always use small solder. It heats up and melts faster and makes life easier. Great video as always.
I must not be the only one disturbed by a tutorial showing a red and black wire being soldered together
Haha awesome 👏 didn’t even notice, I’m sure it’s for demonstration purpose, since it’s a soldering tutorial not a wiring tutorial
That's not what bothers me the most, it's the way you Yanks pronounce 'sodder' and still call your language English!
@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!
you son of a bi---
@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.
Don't forget to put the shrink tube on the wires before you solder if you can't slide them on whenever you're done soldering.
I've done that more than I'd care to admit lol
Looks like i'm not the only one
Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.
Was anyone worried that he was soldering a red wire to a black wire...?
Viktor Orban In the USA, Black is Live and White is Neutral.
You “tin” the tip of your iron to help avoid corrosion when not in use.
You also tin the tip to improve heat conductivity. You’ll notice the difference when applying solder to a non-tinned tip vs a tinned one.
The joining of the wire in this video was perfect technique, which I’m totally stealing.
The reason it was taking so long for the flux to activate was that the wire was conducting away the heat from the solder gun.
The point where the two objects being soldered meet is called a “joint”.
You should apply heat to the joint, and apply solder to where the solder gun and the joint meet. This technique will help transfer heat to the joint faster, getting ahead of the heat dissipation the wires introduce.
Great video. Thank you for making it.
Do you know what the black strand he was holding over the wires? Was he melting something into it?
@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together.
The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.
The dab on your iron helps to transfer heat and also cleans your iron a little with the rosin.
Double wall heat shrink will really seal it up.
Tinning the iron does the double duty of transferring the heat faster and it protects the tip from corrosion while it's hot.
Without it, I tend to melt some insulation by the time the solder flows through.
I like the reference to your grandfather. I’m out in the shop tonight soldering some wires and thought I’d just do a RUclips search to see what other guys are doing. I’m actually using my grandfather’s old Weller gun and I use the exact same method as you. Great video for those who are attempting to solder wires for the first time!
After 50+ years in electronics including ham radio I learned some valuable techniques....many thanks!
With you bud👍🏻😉😊 🇬🇧
Like what exactly...?
Like how not to solder wires together.
@@ehtcom
What was wrong with what he did?
If you’re going to solder wires in a car or truck, just be sure it isn’t in a harness with any movement at all, since soldering makes the wire end more brittle right near the joint. You’ll notice almost all wire connections are crimped from the factory in an automobile because of vibration, for this reason.
If you want to solder faster use wet tip (wet with solder), it will eliminate micro gap and transfer the heat faster onto the wire. That way you wont melt the wire.
Use a mini butane torch and it’s three times faster
I appreciate how often you take a moment to say "thats always how grand dad did it" it reminds me of my own grandpa teaching me skills like this.
The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently
I mean they meet up somewhere
The heat shrink on the alligator clamps is genius.
I've had terrible luck soldering wires together, and after watching this video, I can see why I've failed !! Thank you very much for taking the time to make it. VERY informative and well done. Bob in Grand Rapids, MI
Its easy to twist wires when they are detached like that, its a different story when they are actually attached to something and in tight spot :D
Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult
So true! I always seem to end up with a twisted up mess!
I'm with you, everything is easy on the bench with clamps... hardly real world
Just means you didn't take enough things off to make it not so tight!
Have to agree with some of the comments below. Although Cody has done an excellent job connecting two wires, and one that, for most purposes, will be quite serviceable, there is no mechanical connection. I was a certified in the Air Force for high reliability soldering, and the first rule for soldering anything is to ensure a strong mechanical connection, since solder has very little physical strength to it. The linesman splice is preferable. Good job Cody!
Is it true that the lineman splice or Western Union slice is designed for solid wire?
Nice joint! And, thanks for suggesting the dielectric silicon grease.
It should be noted that quite often, the joint will be made between either two long pieces of wire or two wires that may already be joined to something at the other ends, so the shrink tubing can't be slipped on easily or at all, after the soldering is done.
There are two ways to address this:
One way is to put an appropriate length of shrink tubing onto one of the wires before soldering, but it should be slid well away from the site of the soldering or it will shrink and not slide over the joint.
The other way is to get some self-fusing electrical tape to wrap around the joint after the soldering is done. This may not always be the best method, but sometimes may be the method of choice... especially if one is simply soldering a wire to a connector of some sort, or "oops! I forgot to put the shrink tubing on before applying the solder.".
Best wishes.
As a mechanic I really like that you are using information passed down to you from your granddad, it is really cool to know that this information is legit because of that
LOL - this made me chuckle 😂
I spent a semester in MIL-spec soldering. You never untwist stranded wire. Tin both ends, bend a hook in each end, hook them on each other, flow some solder. Far stronger than this mess in the video. If you really want something awesome, get some 63/37 eutectic solder and you’ll be in heaven.
Make a video
Mil spec soldering... I'll be dammmmd
I've never used flux before, but recently when soldering wires together, the solder just wouldn't flow and stick, now i know why, great tips thanks.
If the other ends of the wires are permanently attached to devices, don't forget, step 1 is to thread the shrink tubing on first. If you have to cut apart your tediously soldered wiring harness once you won't likely forget again. The silicone is a great idea I wasn't aware of.
Heat from the bottom was the best bit I learned from this. Thanks for the pro tip
I don’t use a fancy new gun, I have my grandfathers soldering iron kit, with the old stile wands that look like a wood burner. A fine tipped one and a bulky one. He was a master electrician and used them for decades, now I use them, both still work great.
Tinning the tip? It's for improved heat transfer.
see how this made you into a pro, wow!
Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆
@@EenChristJesus yeah I only watched a couple of seconds of the video but the guy definitely doesn't seem like a pro
@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment
that's the wannabe do it all
the "it's not dumb if it works"
The reason you tin the iron before touching the connection is so the heat can transfer better to the wires that you are soldering. There’s the potential of way more hot surface area (to melt the solder on top of the wires) when the solder is on the iron as opposed to just having the solderless iron try and heat up the wires
Putting a small amount on the iron helps the heat transfer (tinning)
He did. lol
Freefallpilot65 you do it while heating the wire it useless the way he did it
Absolutely correct. That puddle on the tip helps transfer the heat to the joint. It also helps to put the flat part of the tip on the joint.
Indeed, increases heat transfer. Makes solder flow faster and avoids burning things up.
absolutely, and the wire is probably bare tinned copper no need for flux
What you just did will work perfectly fine for most applications.
But if you're interested in real strong splices, bare back the wires an inch or so, meet them, bend them 90 degrees, then twist them together in opposite directions. It's called a western union splice, the harder you pull on it the tighter it gets (until it breaks). Also the preferred spot to add solder is directly between the iron and the wire. And soldering wires together you don't really need paste flux as long as you use flux core (AKA rosin core) solder. And you don't want solder to flow into the insulation of the wire. But I was taught mil-spec soldering you don't need to get that fancy for general purpose stuff :)
I understand the Western Union splice was designed for solid wire but not stranded wire, is this correct?
@@dwaynemcallister7231 2 year old comment wow haha. That could be true. I'm not sure. We used it for stranded in school. But either way it works :). The main thing I was taught is that it doesn't really matter what form of splice you use, it has to be inspectable. Meaning you have to be able to see the adhesion of the solder joint and not just a blob of solder, and if the solder wicks up into the insulation it's no longer inspectable.
Amazing the direction this dude has gone since this video
Great tips! I couldn't tell you how many times I've forgotten to put the shrink tubing on first 😂
I worked as an electrician and this method is so time consuming and, in 99.9% of the jobs, unwarranted that titling it "Like a pro" is pretty funny. More like: "How to solder wires like a control freak".
I'd recommend a pen style soldering tool, they are easier to handle, lighter and less likely to break than a big solder gun, they are wireless too so you aren't limited by cable lengths. Also, shrink tubes are enough to insulate the wire most of the times, unless they are gonna be directly exposed and you live in an area really damp and with frequent winds that rattle the cable all day, and if you leave the wire in those conditions, that silicone won't do anything anyways. Also, we just used a plain old lighter to shrink them, no need to add yet another tool when you're trying to solder hundreds of wires, it just takes time and costs even more than just something you can put in your pocket.
ok, so to be clear, you don't put loctite on the wires to keep them from coming apart?
rjtumble only put on the loctite when you are using an arc welder °F4000 and a Helium shield.
god damnit! lol
LOL 😆 👋 to the Welder !
Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.
In this particular situation, I would recommend taking a swig of loctite prior to the challenge.
What I do is I use shrink tubing with inner hot glue coating. With this, your wire connections will last till the end of time
True! 3:1 shrink tube with adhesive is my favorite!
Learned more then I've ever learned from my electric class, in this 1 video, thank you so much really appreciate it, keep it up
Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁
Cody, in practice any application where there is a chance for wire movement it is better to use crimp connectors. In the marine and aircraft industry soldering wires is not allowed unless the wire is supported and not allowed to move.
There is no doubt that a solder connection provides the best connection. It come down to the movement of the wires.
Also if you are using core solder there is no need to use paste on the wires. Never use acid core solder on electrical connections either
Dave White stfu no one cares.
Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!
It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.
He's obviously talking for 12v applications, he did say trailer.....
Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?
You can also use the side of the soldering iron (gun in your case) to shrink the tubing. That is what I use and it works just fine. Just rub it over the top of the tubing - yup, rub it.
underneath gives a better spread
Not too shabby for an amateur.
Here are a few tips for beginners:
Since the other ends of the wires are likely connected to something, you may want to slip the heat shrink material down one wire before soldering. WS was lucky and had an open end to do this with.
Flux isn't always needed, but is helpful to promote good solder flow. Good quality solder is a plus.
Steer away from solder that has an acid base. That is a specialized type and not used for normal solder jobs.
Free WiFi
I do agree with you on how to heat shrink tube. I have very close friends of mine that are Master mechanics and they even have some sort of special certificate for automotive wiring. When a solder a connection and put a piece of shrink tube on all of them use a cigarette lighter. I tried that a few times and it never worked out well for me. Also you do the same thing that I do before shrinking a tube around it. We just use different brands of dielectric grease. I'm definitely going to pick up a bottle of what you were using. I have the shop size dielectric grease it comes in a tube. that brush that you have I buy them and big bags from harbor freight. I'm glad to see that you use the soldering iron that you did. I have the same sort of one as yours and really never figured out how to use it correctly. It was my father's and it's almost as old as I am and that's saying something. I never did ask him to show me how to use it. I always had a cheap one from radio shack. I enjoyed your video and look forward to watching other ones.
As a little note, clean off the rosin flux with rubbing alcohol before you put the shrink tubing on. The rosin is acidic and will eventually eat through the wires.
You can find heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. It oozes out and seals at the edge. Also I like to get a high shrink ratio so its more versatile, such as soldering two wires on one side to a single wire on the other. That way a larger tube can shrink around the single wire, yet be large enough to slide over the two wires.
Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤
The 3-1 marine type heat shrink works well. It also hardens afterwards, good for some applications not so for others.
I used this technique for my Line 6 power chord and it worked beautifully thanks to your video! Thank you!
Boss: fix that wiring join them back together
Me: ok
10 minutes later
Boss: WHY IT TAKE 10 MINUTES
"Why it take ten minutes ?"
Guessing you work for "angry Asian".
For love nor money, there’s no way I could solder properly even with tin solder containing flux. This video is a godsend and I’m well on my way to finishing my new Corvette Head Unit connections. Thank you so very much!
I have to say, quite frankly, that was one of the most beautiful videos I have ever seen.
me who uses teeth as a wire cutter/striper and fingers like a soldering iron: thats cute
While the thing is still on
@@MS-fe3vo XD yes
It’s cute that you think anyone cares
@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to
Lineman Splice is better in my opinion
While not wrong in cases where load on wire is not a big concern this is fine. Ford actually foregoes solder and just uses shrink wrap. Their thought process being its easier and faster to replace shrink wrap than the whole soldering process or so I guess. For context sake remember that in a car it's suppose to last multiple repairs with today's electronics.
What world do you live in where you western union splice stranded wires?
Almost any wire can be lineman/western union spliced
fun fact: It took roughly 60 years for wire splice technology to go from simple WU splices, to soldered WU splice, "shotgun" twist sleeves, to the Nicopress sleeves , developed just before WWII, to be eclipsed by IDC connectors used today, such as B-connectors, UG/UY/UR, Picabond/TelSplice...
Much of the innovation can be traced directly to Bell Labs research, and the telephone industry looking for the lowest loss/easiest/cheapest way to join two wires together.
It can be finicky doing a lineman splice with stranded wire, like the ones in this video.
That's a really great way to ensure joins won't break, but unfortunately it's a bit unrealistic in a lot of scenarios wherethe length of this solder joints is sometimes the whole wire length we have to work. In those cases what i do is try to peel the cables around the same length, make a cross, and twist them in opposite directions, which makes for a pretty solid joint as well in very tight spaces. I'd like to try and apply what was shown here though.
Thanks four the easy end simple explenation 👌
Didn’t even realize it was a wranglestar video till he showed his face. Best videos on RUclips!
When soldering, I LIVE by the mantra "skrink tubing hides a lot of sins"
I about passed on this because I thought I knew how to solder. This is a really cool technique. Will definitely be using this!
I thought this was how everyone was taught to solder, how were you doing it?
Same... don't know how strong the joint would be, but it does seems marginally better than just spinning them normally
Hey Cody, while it can't hurt, the use of flux paste with rosin core solder in this type of soldering is redundant. Flux paste should be used when existing connections are re-exposed to heat, such as in the case of soldering adjacent connectors, etc.
Flux inhibits oxidation at the site of heating, which results in better connections.
Also, flux should be removed following soldering so as to minimize corrosion. A lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol are adequate for this application.
Dielectric grease is a corrosion inhibitor, so it's great for exposed electrical connections. Especially the mechanical type, such as a lug and bolt.
Properly applied, hear shrink tubing will seal connections, and it's also optional in this application.
It should be noted that solder and flux are available for specialized purposed, and that plumbing flux and solder should not be used to solder electrical connections.
Lastly, do not directly touch solder to the iron. This is the reason why it took so long to initially heat the conductors. Heat the leads, then touch the solder to the leads to "flow" solder across the connection. Wipe any flux and solder residue from the tip of the iron, and repeat.
Great video, as usual. Keep up the great work.
As I understand it, Cody was right to want to tin the iron. Though he ended up keeping a blob of solder on the iron. To tin, he needed to apply the solder then flick excess off, thus keeping a thin layer on iron only.
I know you should use proper flux for the proper job but I've used an old tin can (or steel? not sure) of nokorode that's been in the family since my great grandfather, and while there's still flux left in there we probably won't buy anything new because it does the job and it does it really well, provided you clean up afterwards (isopropyl and a nail brush). The only issue with it is the fact the binder is a really nasty thick grease, but honestly I'd rather take that over the horrible liquid flux that's really popular, I should also say I would probably get real electronics flux paste if it was sold where I live, but it isn't so no luck on that front.
Hey buddy where can i get electrical flux
From a Flux Capacitor,maybe?
@@samborez8089 true
A 20+ yr Electronics Tech that solders 300 pin micro connectors for the F18 reviewed my solder job following your video and said "your solder joint looks d@#n good!". Thanks, it had been a couple decades since i tried last and so was hesitant. I bought a little helping hands with alligator hands and magnifier at #harborfreight for dirt cheap like 5$ i think. I ended up adding the shrink tube on the alligator clips after the 1st round because they do bite into the wire that was a great idea. Thank you to you and your granddad who took time to teach you things in life
Really clear, to the point video , especially for beginners, greetings from Egypt
You don’t need the silicone paste with shrink tubing. It keeps the glue from tubing from sealing properly. Only use silicone on stuff not shrink tubed. Like spade but connectors
Not all shrink has glue
I appreciate the silicone advice, will use that in the future.
Thanks man... Found this useful... I'm hopeless at soldering.. Hopefully will help.... From Australia.
At 3:43 Grandad was right. Wet your tip with a little solder to help transfer the heat from the tip to the joint more efficiently. Your tip was still a little dry and needed more solder where it met the wire. That's why it took so long and why your wire turned black.
very professional, clean looking solder job. better than 99.9% out there.
It's actually a good idea to touch the soldering iron tip so there is a thermal connection between the wire and the soldering iron. After there is a good thermal connection feed the solder into the wire and the solder will wick through the wire. For the rest it's a good video, I like the silicone trick
Despite some of the comments below I appreciate this video and learned some things. Thank you. Have a great day!.
yea soldering 2 different colours together
I enjoyed this video a lot. I am 72 and 50 years ago I was rebuilding these small block engines. Its nice to see I was doing it right and you still are.
Beautiful video! Genius use of the m3 silicon grease! Never thought of using it like that
U did a great job. I was unfamiliar with how to solder electrical wires for my headlight on my silverado. Your demonstration was very clear and precise. Thank u.
People need to be wary of any youtube video that declares itself as 'how to do something like a Pro', because 99% are not done by pros, always check the comments for an outcry. Speaking as a Pro, that was pretty good, except most QA instructions will instruct you to twist the wire or do a lineman's splice, what you are doing there has no mechanical integrity. Well done on adding dielectric grease, that's essential.
Just to add, you can also use adhesive lined heatshrink for extra sealing, and most solder has a flux core already.
Actually adding the dielectric grease helps retain the tube’s 99.99% seal around the bare wires before they were stripped. using heat shrink alone wouldnt be enough to maintain that seal as there would still be possible air gaps.. i wont explain what the dangers of air gaps are since you seem to “think” you know better..
Where did I suggest 'using heat shrink alone' ? - your point is unclear
My thought exactly!! I cringed at the wire joining method... Then he wondered why the heat wouldn't transfer..
Another tip, is to use silicone insulated wire when ever you can. Plastic insulated wires can melt while you're soldering or using the heat gun (especially true with very thin wires). Plus, the waterproofing and general heft between silicone and shrink tubing is much better than with plastic.
Wire splicing is my arch nemesis. I mostly deal with very thin wires (I build drones), and I hate splicing. Your method with splaying the strands of both wires was an eye opener for me! I usually wet both ends first, then lie them next to each other or butt-solder them. This is *much* better.
I've had an instant Weller since 1969....... 1. You're using the 'edge', not the face of the tip [90 degree wrong] 2. You DO wet the tip with solder - massively increases heat transfer, to the work 3. Took far to long to do it - 5 seconds about right
I've been a subscriber from early on and you are a very good teacher of things,very good instruction, to the point, well spoken.very informative and helpful. Great job
Great job, lots of patience in your explanations and the video was nice and clear. Basically, add the shrink tube prior to soldering and keep it far enough away so it doesn’t start to shrink from the work being done..then slide it into place later.
Why did you use the flux? I was taught when I was in school shop class that I did not need flux for electrical wiring and the reason for that was the electrial soder had flux in it.
David Lingelbach yeah if your using the correct solder for electrical, rosin core typically. You do not need flux. If you do use flux it's a good idea to clean the joint once cooled because certain flux can actually cause corrosion in the joint overtime
if you are joining well vertdegred wires additional flux is a good thing, a new wire would be better but not always an option
Its so the solder dont jend up being just a coat around 2 disjointed clumps of multicored cables.
I've found having liquid solder flux is handy for electrical work, sometimes you need a bit more flux than what's in the solder itself, especially if your iron tip and/or exposed wires have a bit of oxidation. The liquid flux soaks in between the strands of multi-strand wire better than the paste.
Joe Van Cleave yes especially if you have aged components with steel lead wires (like most), if I do any through hole work I'll use rosin flux pen if I have it, if I'm doing surface mount it will be that other stuff with non rosin solder or solder paste with flux in it, it's certainly not a sure thing to use row in core solder for everything but for most people it is adequate but not optimal without additional flux, for joining clean new wires like the demo it would certainly suffice
It's not terrible to touch the soldering iron briefly while waiting for the wire to heat up. The small blob will help conduct heat to the wires faster.
Anybody else get the feeling this guy learns something and, 20 minutes later, makes a video 'teaching" others?
Pretty sure that's the basis of his entire channel haha.
@@Andy-im3kj Yep - and why not? Seems to be working. Might motivate those with higher skills to do a proper instructional.
Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "
Let's see how many likes you get on you cricket remark. Friggin' fanboys.
he does not have a clue!
Nice tip about speeding the fibers. It is much smaller joint than the "Western Union Joint" I usually use.
By "tinning" it, allows more heat flow from the iron to the wires.
Yep you can tin the bare wire when joining to solder pads ECT and also should run the tip, him wiping it on a cloth is not tining anything lol
Let me explain a few things...
1. Tinning the tip of the iron is done for a couple of reasons. First is because as the iron remains heated, corrosion forms on the surface of the hot solder. Second is to tin it so you have extra solder to wipe off the corroded solder just like he very poorly wiped it on the sponge. Corroded solder should have come off onto the sponge leaving freshsolder behind. Third, you need a proper amount of solder for sufficient heat transfer. His wires took so long to heat up because he didnt have enough solder on his iron. By having a larger fluid surface, you come into more contact with the wires surface faster than pressing just the iron. Notice how once he started adding more solder it wicked up the wires and how once it was 90% coated he was able to reflow it super fast? Proper amount of solder makes for faster heat transfer.
2. Joining method doesnt matter as much as how well the solder flows into the wires. If the wires are properly soldered (regardless of joining method) they will be very difficult to pull apart. If they pull apart easy, its likely a cold solder joint or not enough solder/flowed solder.
3. The flux he used is 100%unnecessary if the wires are clean and the solder already has a flux core. However if youre having difficulty creating a good flow of solder, the flux will help tremendously.
Very well rounded information
Fun Fact During manufacturing the cans have been Tempered Hardened for durability
A soldering iron can’t produce the temperature to melt the hardened tin hence the need to Tin prior to Soldering
I don't recommend the big Weller guns for small soldering jobs. the more old fashioned soldering irons work just fine for small wires and such. The Weller's do work well for most things tho, but they have too much heat for some jobs.
@Leon thecat yep I have several irons and guns. The right tool for the job at hand does wonders. oh, the little drop of solder on the tip gives better heat transfer. you should always get the wires to melt the solder tho for the actual soldering job.
This is the definition of breaking a butterfly on a wheel ^^
Chuck A's reply hit it on the head. Use the Lineman's Splice and do it to NASA specs and you'll have a good mechanical joint that is secured with the solder. Cody, your joint is depending on the solder to hold it together which could fail.
Lineman Splice is for solid wire. It is much weaker on a stranded wire than on a solid core. The weak point isn't the bind, obviously, it's the stranded wire itself. It's an overkill. Entirely valid and a fantastic bind, but overkill nonetheless
Maybe if you didn't think you were so smart you clearly see this is for automotive purposes..... Maybe spent less time being a sideline quarterback
Fred- The NASA splice calls for tinning the wire first so it is effectively a solid wire at the splice. ruclips.net/video/O-ymw7d_nYo/видео.html
Oh I know, but it doesn't change the fact that weak point becomes the untinned stranded part, making it redundant. The tension resistance of stranded wire is less than what the actual splice will give you. Making a bulky solid splice may sometimes do more harm than good if you think about it (automotive comes to mind)
Don't get me wrong, I think mastering the Nasa spec splice is a wonderfull skill to have. I would definitly encourage anyone to master it. I guess my main point is that Cody did a pretty solid splice that will last and do the intended job it's meant to do.
I'd love you to find someone that tins wires for a car or trailer, I've done hundreds or remote start/ alarms as well as other automotive installations and I can tell you that I've never had a single vehicle come back because of a solder issue, you people mentioning NASA like your building something for space.... give me a break ps using the right solder for electrical work makes all the difference in the world
4:07 Yes, you do. It melts a lot faster that way, and you don't overheat the thing being soldered. As soon as the wires are hot enough, the solder will flow right in from the tip of the iron.
exactly, the stranded wire is horribly thermally conductive in the radial direction.
been soldering for a long time but it was still a pleasure to watch you vids. thx.
Wow! Put ten people in a room and ask them to demonstrate their method of joining two wires and you'll probably get any number of variations covering from one end of the spectrum to the other. The only constant will be that each person is convinced that their way is the "right way". Sometimes, it boils down to simply making a repair with what you have and where you are at the time of needed repair and sometimes you are in your shop with the tools and time to make a better job of it. Cody simply showed you a decent way that works - be glad!
Robert
Yes, but he said "like a pro"
1. Live in a pool (create a flow of solder and keep it liquid)
2. Solder will travel to the heat once the pool is formed
3. Don't use too much heat
4. Don't get the solder in the insulation from using too much solder (check by bending the wire, you'll know if it's stiff).
You can also buy special heat shrink that have adhesive on the ends so there's no need for the silicone
Hot glue, to be precise, yes.
we are watching you live in the waiting room, thank you for creative commons and one of my viewers actually knows you. now i am subbed, will check out more!
Thank you so much for showing me how to solder. I have always been skeptical of trying it, but now i feel confident.
Your kidding, right?
Thank you for showing us.
But why don't you place the heat shrink tube over the wire first, then pulled to the one side of the cable, then solder the wire together?
Regards Gary Tangeman
because the wire was free on either side so he didnt have to. if this was a real connection he was making then yes u would put the heat shrink first to one side
I was taught this as the birdcage long ago looks good but crimp and sealed wire hold up better to high vibration
You should use flux cleaner to wipe that joint down before sealing it. The left over flux can corrode the joint inside the shrink tube.
too late its crept up the insulation
Not true. Rosin flux is not corrosive. I have aviation radios from the 1940's and 1950's with rosin flux residue on them: the solder joints are still fine after 3/4 century. You are confusing rosin flux with acid flux, used for plumbing work.
Good Stuff! Wish I'd seen this a week ago when I was re-wiring some lights on my Harley :)
You have more things to worry about then wires shaking loose. 🤣😂🤣
You said to not touch the solder to the iron. When I’ve seen people put the solder on the iron first, then put it on the wire and heat it, but can’t remember if they used flux or not.
This is so confusing. Your way seemed good though.
I’m just a perfectionist so until I understand the exact science of why to do it one way over the other I cannot commit on any single method.
The way you joined the wires together before soldering though is definitely the best way. Thank you.
I like the twist you made with the wires. Keeps it in line. But soldering takes to long. It needs to be faster 2-3 seconds. In and out.
"That's gonna be your best connection"
Lineman splice: "Bruh"
@@restopesto9448 saaame, it's amazing, never had an issue with it.
I stopped watching at the"clamp them in your vise". Yes because I have a vise under my dash.. where I solder 90% of the time
Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "
@@waltermercado2937 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@jordanhaslam9269 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@Anyone700 "Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning" yes, he mentioned that in his video, I'm not sure why you're repeating it
You should of stopped when he said soldering is better termination than crimping.
Solid! I just wanted to share with you somthing because you helped me and this might help you! I seen your video before but I could never get the solder to work because I couldn't find the proper flux. Turns out I had this old masters flux for stained glass windows. I thought about it, then said to myself "wires are copper and stained glass windows are fused from using copper" sure enough it worked and held the tires perfect! I know because as you said plumbers flux won't work and I tried that, so in this case at least it will either work or not! Thiers no inbetween! Cheers hope this might help!
Man I’ve seen your woodworking videos now I’m getting electrical advice. Thank you for your knowledge sir.
4:08 "Woah, that took a long time to... heat up, there."
7:15 *Dragon-laughs icicles...*
PS: Most Times ..you have to put the Heat Shrink Tubing .... on First !!
Tip 1, get a soldering Iron not a gun. make sure it's 25 watts at least. Chisel tips are wonderful. Tip 2, flux is built into most electronics solder so you don't need to use flux before hand.
But if your solder doesn't have flux, USE FLUX. Soldering without it is pointless self-torture.
Theres alot more to consider when choosing solder such as what your wire is made out of along with other factors in this process dont get me wrong what you did will definitely do the job. Im an aircraft electrician so my expertise is really honed in on this topic. All in all youve achieved the result you are looking for though