Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.
That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.
@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!
@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.
for me as someone who has never done anything in life in terms of electronics this is a very important video for me to watch at 4 am instead of sleeping yes :)
@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to
Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.
As a soldering pro I very much approve of this. Your method is pretty much foolproof. A tip: have some molten solder on the soldering iron tip to act as a heat conductor. That way you avoid the long heat up times like you had in your example.
Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult
If you’re going to solder wires in a car or truck, just be sure it isn’t in a harness with any movement at all, since soldering makes the wire end more brittle right near the joint. You’ll notice almost all wire connections are crimped from the factory in an automobile because of vibration, for this reason.
I bought a soldering station last year. It changed my whole view on soldering. It never takes that long to heat up, and it is amazing how easy it is to solder now. Also, always use small solder. It heats up and melts faster and makes life easier. Great video as always.
Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆
@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment that's the wannabe do it all the "it's not dumb if it works"
You “tin” the tip of your iron to help avoid corrosion when not in use. You also tin the tip to improve heat conductivity. You’ll notice the difference when applying solder to a non-tinned tip vs a tinned one. The joining of the wire in this video was perfect technique, which I’m totally stealing. The reason it was taking so long for the flux to activate was that the wire was conducting away the heat from the solder gun. The point where the two objects being soldered meet is called a “joint”. You should apply heat to the joint, and apply solder to where the solder gun and the joint meet. This technique will help transfer heat to the joint faster, getting ahead of the heat dissipation the wires introduce. Great video. Thank you for making it.
@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together. The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.
If you want to solder faster use wet tip (wet with solder), it will eliminate micro gap and transfer the heat faster onto the wire. That way you wont melt the wire.
halnywiatr> Cody was soldering stranded wire - is the technique the same? And can you explain exactly what the problem is with the technique he used? What would be the failure point and what amount of stress it would take? I did not address this question to all of the so-called "engineers" and their self-righteous "I know better because I have a degree" BS, without trying to be helpful. Every time I look at some of the products that the "Engineers" have "designed" I think they should be regarded like lawyers, and used care salesmen.
The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently
I turn my iron up pretty high and press it pretty hard against the wires but they never get hot enough to melt the solder. And the wire insulation just ends up melting cuz the wires get hot enough to melt them but not the solder, why. I have a decent iron
Don't press it against the wires like he showed in the video. I usually dip the solder in the greasy stuff (I forgot what its called in English, in my language we just call it paste lmao), then put the iron on the wire (with no solder on it) and put the solder in a spot where it touches both the iron AND the wire. Theat way it melts super quickly but also sticks almost only to the wire
@@waltermercado2937 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@jordanhaslam9269 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@Anyone700 "Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning" yes, he mentioned that in his video, I'm not sure why you're repeating it
Speaking as someone who has been soldering for a living for 3 decades, there is NOTHING in this video that is "Like a Pro". Pros don't use a Weller "Firestarter" inductive-heat soldering gun; we use a temp-controlled iron or gun. That thing is literally a short-circuit with a handle. We NEVER do "twist splice" and solder... that leaves entirely too much exposed bare conductor. We do a simple lap joint, with overlap of approx 2x the diameter of the conductor. Mission-critical connections get a crimp ferrule AND solder before heat-shrinking. Silicone grease under the shrink wrap?!? THIS IS A HORRIBLE IDEA. Lubing up the heat-shrink almost guarantees that when you're pulling cable, the heat-shrink will slide off, leaving the bare conductor exposed at the joint. We use self-sealing heat-shrink. It has heat-bonding sealant already applied inside; and unlike your method, it actually adds mechanical strength to the connection. You can do similar by applying hot-glue BEFORE applying the heat-shrink; apply enough that it encapsulates the joint completely and oozes out the ends when you heat the heat-shrink. This makes a PERMANENT, waterproof splice. PLEASE... go to SOME tech school and actually take a course; learn how to properly prep and solder wires. And take down this horror show before someone burns their house down following your advice. :facepalm:
I was gonna say, I was always taught that a lap joint is the way to go. But that was when I was extending wiring for a motorcycle project. So I thought maybe this video showed a better way. But I am glad you confirmed my belief.
@@per.kallberg - Well, crimped ferrules don't make it airtight; especially the ones that come with heat-shrink already applied. But if you use plain crimp ferrules then sealing heat-shrink after crimping, the resulting splice is considered safe for permanent immersion. This is how submersible pumps are wired.
Calm down, mnemennth, this is just another self-professed youtube "pro" regular joe shmo know-nothing jackoff making videos in his moms basement to make himself feel important. It's mostly what the internet is. It's entertaining, that's the only value to it.
mnemennth- you're spot on here. His shtick seems to be grossly overselling his own knowledge/abilities/aptitudes, demonstrating a tool (as a complete hack who himself watched a RUclips video 10 minutes earlier), then providing an affiliate link. I used to really enjoy this channel for it's folksy, down-home ranch stuff but this new formula is just repellent and completely destroys whatever credibility he once had. He has become a RUclips hack psuedo-expert. Sad.
While not wrong in cases where load on wire is not a big concern this is fine. Ford actually foregoes solder and just uses shrink wrap. Their thought process being its easier and faster to replace shrink wrap than the whole soldering process or so I guess. For context sake remember that in a car it's suppose to last multiple repairs with today's electronics.
fun fact: It took roughly 60 years for wire splice technology to go from simple WU splices, to soldered WU splice, "shotgun" twist sleeves, to the Nicopress sleeves , developed just before WWII, to be eclipsed by IDC connectors used today, such as B-connectors, UG/UY/UR, Picabond/TelSplice... Much of the innovation can be traced directly to Bell Labs research, and the telephone industry looking for the lowest loss/easiest/cheapest way to join two wires together.
Yeah it's not perfect but this is way better than crimp connectors. What would you change/improve? Do you do that "NASA splice" where the two wires are bent into U's and then hooked and twisted around each other before solder is applied?
@@CassidyHansen Fraying wires is a big no-no on contacts, splices, solder, everything. Flux is not necessary unless you busted out a roll of solder from 1980 or you're dealing with something like 8 awg wire. Also ditch the sealing slime and get some shrink sleeves with glue already within, or splice covers that have the little seals at both ends. As for what I use at home, the lineman splice would be my go-to, but I also have access to M81824/1-2s and crimp tools from work. :)
That's because Aircraft wires are subject to the Fuselage expanding and compressing during Flight and a more secure method is needed. With this method on an Aircraft..the twisted wires could Pull apart or Solder Joints could crack during flight and actually CAUSE a Critical System to FAIL!.. So You are Absolutely Correct in your statement.. However in avg home applications this method should be Fine.
@@kayfluff His way is perfect for us guitarists, except for the flux and sealer. Our guitar cavities have limited space and we don't want large knots (as I have seen) or any kind of connectors.
I spent a semester in MIL-spec soldering. You never untwist stranded wire. Tin both ends, bend a hook in each end, hook them on each other, flow some solder. Far stronger than this mess in the video. If you really want something awesome, get some 63/37 eutectic solder and you’ll be in heaven.
Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.
You're lucky that booger isn't that important. You are wrong on so many levels, specially concerning the silicone. And you provided a void of an amateur method of soldering. You have no soldering skills, using a 100-140W "GUN" instead of a ~40W iron. You should have 'flashed' the solder on from the top, with the solder between the iron and wire, thus providing instant thermal conductivity for the solder to flow, and to heat the wire and make subsequent proper connection. I bet the wire is 'cold-solder connected' on the bottom, since you wanted NO 'drip'; easily dealt with by capillarity and adhesion to a properly tinned iron. There WAS NO silicone between the shrink tubing and the red end of the wire, and it did NOT seal because of it, but rather in spite of it. The black end is not stuck at all to the tubing--because of the silicone. Best use the silicone for non-soldered connections only--and then it is a mess to work with anyway. Better to keep water away from such connections, and if you can't--just repair it properly. I have been an electronic Tech for years at a TV shop, but went back to Fuel injection and wire harness repair/troubleshooting of V-Twin KVF750 Kawasaki ATVs, since it pays better, and ppl would rather buy a new cheap stereo/TV/whatever instead of paying to have it fixed. Retired now, the skills I've learned are ever fresh!
I answered and said, "If I have found favor in thy sight, O Lord, show this also to thy servant: whether after death, as soon as every one of us yields up his soul, we shall be kept in rest until those times come when thou wilt renew the creation, or whether we shall be tormented at once?" 76 He answered me and said, "I will show you that also, but do not be associated with those who have shown scorn, nor number yourself among those who are tormented. 77 For you have a treasure of works laid up with the Most High; but it will not be shown to you until the last times. 78 Now, concerning death, the teaching is: When the decisive decree has gone forth from the Most High that a man shall die, as the spirit leaves the body to return again to him who gave it, first of all it adores the glory of the Most High. 79 And if it is one of those who have shown scorn and have not kept the way of the Most High, and who have despised his law, and who have hated those who fear the Most High -- 80 such spirits shall not enter into habitations, but shall immediately wander about in torments, ever grieving and sad, in seven ways. 81 The first way, because they have scorned the law of the Most High. 82 The second way, because they cannot now make a good repentance that they may live. 83 The third way, they shall see the reward laid up for those who have trusted the covenants of the Most High. 84 The fourth way, they shall consider the torment laid up for themselves in the last days. 85 The fifth way, they shall see how the habitations of the others are guarded by angels in profound quiet. 86 The sixth way, they shall see how some of them will pass over into torments. 87 The seventh way, which is worse than all the ways that have been mentioned, because they shall utterly waste away in confusion and be consumed with shame, and shall wither with fear at seeing the glory of the Most High before whom they sinned while they were alive, and before whom they are to be judged in the last times. 88 "Now this is the order of those who have kept the ways of the Most High, when they shall be separated from their mortal body. 89 During the time that they lived in it, they laboriously served the Most High, and withstood danger every hour, that they might keep the law of the Lawgiver perfectly. 90 Therefore this is the teaching concerning them: 91 First of all, they shall see with great joy the glory of him who receives them, for they shall have rest in seven orders. 92 The first order, because they have striven with great effort to overcome the evil thought which was formed with them, that it might not lead them astray from life into death. 93 The second order, because they see the perplexity in which the souls of the unrighteous wander, and the punishment that awaits them. 94 The third order, they see the witness which he who formed them bears concerning them, that while they were alive they kept the law which was given them in trust. 95 The fourth order, they understand the rest which they now enjoy, being gathered into their chambers and guarded by angels in profound quiet, and the glory which awaits them in the last days. 96 The fifth order, they rejoice that they have now escaped what is corruptible, and shall inherit what is to come; and besides they see the straits and toil from which they have been delivered, and the spacious liberty which they are to receive and enjoy in immortality. 97 The sixth order, when it is shown to them how their face is to shine like the sun, and how they are to be made like the light of the stars, being incorruptible from then on. 98 The seventh order, which is greater than all that have been mentioned, because they shall rejoice with boldness, and shall be confident without confusion, and shall be glad without fear, for they hasten to behold the face of him whom they served in life and from whom they are to receive their reward when glorified. 99 This is the order of the souls of the righteous, as henceforth is announced; and the aforesaid are the ways of torment which those who would not give heed shall suffer hereafter." 100 I answered and said, "Will time therefore be given to the souls, after they have been separated from the bodies, to see what you have described to me?" 101 He said to me, "They shall have freedom for seven days, so that during these seven days they may see the things of which you have been told, and afterwards they shall be gathered in their habitations." 102 I answered and said, "If I have found favor in thy sight, show further to me, thy servant, whether on the day of judgment the righteous will be able to intercede for the unrighteous or to entreat the Most High for them, 103 fathers for sons or sons for parents, brothers for brothers, relatives for their kinsmen, or friends for those who are most dear." 104 He answered me and said, "Since you have found favor in my sight, I will show you this also. The day of judgment is decisive and displays to all the seal of truth. Just as now a father does not send his son, or a son his father, or a master his servant, or a friend his dearest friend, to be ill or sleep or eat or be healed in his stead, 105 so no one shall ever pray for another on that day, neither shall any one lay a burden on another; for then every one shall bear his own righteousness and unrighteousness." .....2 Esdras 7:75 ,,,,,,,,,''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
You don’t need the silicone paste with shrink tubing. It keeps the glue from tubing from sealing properly. Only use silicone on stuff not shrink tubed. Like spade but connectors
For small gauge wires like that it’s better to use flux core solder for electronics and you have to tin the tip of the soldering iron with a small amount of solder…that’s what helps make the heat connection….otherwise you’re just over heating the parts.
As a mechanic I really like that you are using information passed down to you from your granddad, it is really cool to know that this information is legit because of that
@@endtimes6869 Flux isn't necessary. It's already in the solder. His iron isn't hot enough. It should be hot enough to heat the wires within seconds. Tin the tip of the iron to help transfer heat to the wires. Otherwise you'll just be burning all the flux away with the solder sitting there heating for so long. I've been in almost no situation where "helping hands" could be used. Usually I'll be up under a car with my arms up in the engine bay soldering a wire that's already connected on both ends.
If the other ends of the wires are permanently attached to devices, don't forget, step 1 is to thread the shrink tubing on first. If you have to cut apart your tediously soldered wiring harness once you won't likely forget again. The silicone is a great idea I wasn't aware of.
I like the reference to your grandfather. I’m out in the shop tonight soldering some wires and thought I’d just do a RUclips search to see what other guys are doing. I’m actually using my grandfather’s old Weller gun and I use the exact same method as you. Great video for those who are attempting to solder wires for the first time!
It's not terrible to touch the soldering iron briefly while waiting for the wire to heat up. The small blob will help conduct heat to the wires faster.
As a little note, clean off the rosin flux with rubbing alcohol before you put the shrink tubing on. The rosin is acidic and will eventually eat through the wires.
Thank you. I cant believe how far i had to scroll down the comments to locate someone that knows what they are doing. Linemans knot is the only PROPER joint when soldering
I don't recommend the big Weller guns for small soldering jobs. the more old fashioned soldering irons work just fine for small wires and such. The Weller's do work well for most things tho, but they have too much heat for some jobs.
@Leon thecat yep I have several irons and guns. The right tool for the job at hand does wonders. oh, the little drop of solder on the tip gives better heat transfer. you should always get the wires to melt the solder tho for the actual soldering job.
"Like a pro"... Pro would go back to the tool crib, get a coffee on the way, get a double ended crimp, get a coffee and a smoke on the way back, and use that instead. Sounds like to much of a hassle? We'll talk again wenn your wire breaks at the end of your tinning. They always do.
Agreed, properly crimped connectors will outlast soldered connections when vibration is present (i.e. autos, boats, planes). Solder is fine for electronics, lamps, toasters, etc.
Nice joint! And, thanks for suggesting the dielectric silicon grease. It should be noted that quite often, the joint will be made between either two long pieces of wire or two wires that may already be joined to something at the other ends, so the shrink tubing can't be slipped on easily or at all, after the soldering is done. There are two ways to address this: One way is to put an appropriate length of shrink tubing onto one of the wires before soldering, but it should be slid well away from the site of the soldering or it will shrink and not slide over the joint. The other way is to get some self-fusing electrical tape to wrap around the joint after the soldering is done. This may not always be the best method, but sometimes may be the method of choice... especially if one is simply soldering a wire to a connector of some sort, or "oops! I forgot to put the shrink tubing on before applying the solder.". Best wishes.
Obviously a comedy clip, excess flux, excess heat, recommending a soldered wire joint for wet/movement area . This video is a lesson in what not to do. Heatshrink is available with glue inside that positively seals and also this is availble on crimp connectors. Flux is acidic and along with the heat changing the annealling of the wire causing it to be brittle is enough to make it fail in an envrinoment that is prone to vibration and moisture. This is why crimping is considered to be industry standard. If there is a need to resist moisture, there are crimps designed especially for that too.
Why did you use the flux? I was taught when I was in school shop class that I did not need flux for electrical wiring and the reason for that was the electrial soder had flux in it.
David Lingelbach yeah if your using the correct solder for electrical, rosin core typically. You do not need flux. If you do use flux it's a good idea to clean the joint once cooled because certain flux can actually cause corrosion in the joint overtime
I've found having liquid solder flux is handy for electrical work, sometimes you need a bit more flux than what's in the solder itself, especially if your iron tip and/or exposed wires have a bit of oxidation. The liquid flux soaks in between the strands of multi-strand wire better than the paste.
Joe Van Cleave yes especially if you have aged components with steel lead wires (like most), if I do any through hole work I'll use rosin flux pen if I have it, if I'm doing surface mount it will be that other stuff with non rosin solder or solder paste with flux in it, it's certainly not a sure thing to use row in core solder for everything but for most people it is adequate but not optimal without additional flux, for joining clean new wires like the demo it would certainly suffice
The reason you tin the iron before touching the connection is so the heat can transfer better to the wires that you are soldering. There’s the potential of way more hot surface area (to melt the solder on top of the wires) when the solder is on the iron as opposed to just having the solderless iron try and heat up the wires
You can also use the side of the soldering iron (gun in your case) to shrink the tubing. That is what I use and it works just fine. Just rub it over the top of the tubing - yup, rub it.
I've had an instant Weller since 1969....... 1. You're using the 'edge', not the face of the tip [90 degree wrong] 2. You DO wet the tip with solder - massively increases heat transfer, to the work 3. Took far to long to do it - 5 seconds about right
That's a really great way to ensure joins won't break, but unfortunately it's a bit unrealistic in a lot of scenarios wherethe length of this solder joints is sometimes the whole wire length we have to work. In those cases what i do is try to peel the cables around the same length, make a cross, and twist them in opposite directions, which makes for a pretty solid joint as well in very tight spaces. I'd like to try and apply what was shown here though.
Aside from the complete hash you made of the actual soldering - risking over-heating and damaging the wire insulation - I can't, for a moment, understand why you would put grease on the joint rather than just use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing!? On top of that, why *on Earth* would you use messy flux paste rather than just very common and cheap rosin-cored solder (which doesn't cause corrosion, for those that think it does) designed for this very process? As a result of the comments to my comments, I watched this again and I am totally gobsmacked by the pedantic and excessively ****LOOOOOOOONG**** way to do an extremely simple job! If this were a heavy gauge wire the technique of meshing the strands together works well but for a small gauge wire like this, the easiest, most reliable and quickest way to do it is to twist the 2 bared ends together and solder that. Then bend it flat and install the heat shrink. The other cosmic failure demonstrated here is that using the 'wet' solder on the iron is by far the better way to get heat transferred to the wire prior to applying the resin-solder. There is 50 times more contact between the molten solder on the iron and the wire strands than using a 'dry' iron. And there is no point in cleaning an already shiny iron on the damp sponge as all it does is drastically cool the iron just when you want it to be hot. Really, this is a far better description of how *not* to do this simple job that would take me about 10 seconds from cut wire ends to heat shrink applied.
He’s using rosin core solder using flux helps with heat transfer and making it easier for the solder to permeate into the wire, it’s unnecessary but not a bad practice.
Tip 1, get a soldering Iron not a gun. make sure it's 25 watts at least. Chisel tips are wonderful. Tip 2, flux is built into most electronics solder so you don't need to use flux before hand.
L. A. Olson well, any stress on this joint will weaken it as the only thing holding the wires together is the solder. You have to wrap the wires around each other if you want it to stand any chance of lasting (see “NASA” splice). Also, in most situations you will not be able to put the stink tubing on once you’ve done the splice.
If you are connecting 2 wires for something like a wire going to a solenoid and it is going to be mounted and is not close to a plug then you don't need to. They are twisted together btw
I worked as an electrician and this method is so time consuming and, in 99.9% of the jobs, unwarranted that titling it "Like a pro" is pretty funny. More like: "How to solder wires like a control freak". I'd recommend a pen style soldering tool, they are easier to handle, lighter and less likely to break than a big solder gun, they are wireless too so you aren't limited by cable lengths. Also, shrink tubes are enough to insulate the wire most of the times, unless they are gonna be directly exposed and you live in an area really damp and with frequent winds that rattle the cable all day, and if you leave the wire in those conditions, that silicone won't do anything anyways. Also, we just used a plain old lighter to shrink them, no need to add yet another tool when you're trying to solder hundreds of wires, it just takes time and costs even more than just something you can put in your pocket.
This is what happens when a plumber tries to solder electronics. Painting the joint with flux beforehand is totally unnecessary. Use electronic grade rosin core solder and the core has enough flux to do the joint. For heating up the wire, touch a small bead to the soldering gun tip and the wire joint to transfer heat then apply solder to the top of joint as showed in your video. Forget the flux paste, you’re soldering wires not pipes! I recommend you watch a good video for soldering electronic components. To others watching this video, this will put you on the wrong track.
Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁
Not true. Rosin flux is not corrosive. I have aviation radios from the 1940's and 1950's with rosin flux residue on them: the solder joints are still fine after 3/4 century. You are confusing rosin flux with acid flux, used for plumbing work.
Cody, in practice any application where there is a chance for wire movement it is better to use crimp connectors. In the marine and aircraft industry soldering wires is not allowed unless the wire is supported and not allowed to move. There is no doubt that a solder connection provides the best connection. It come down to the movement of the wires. Also if you are using core solder there is no need to use paste on the wires. Never use acid core solder on electrical connections either
Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!
It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.
Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?
There is a reason why soldering is abandoned for any application in flight or aerospace. Its not vibrateproof,it stiffens the wires too much in areas where flexibility is needed.If you choose the right crimp style connectors(not the pre insulated ones) with an insulating and contacting crimp they work just fine.
Polk - Pol-k (long o) Polk - Po-k (long o) Polka - Pol-kah (long o) Polka Dot - Po-kah (long o) It’s solder as in solider in some regions in the US, and solder as in sawdust in other regions. I flip flop between the two. I have a feeling solder as in sawdust started in the New England area and spread from there.
Have to agree with some of the comments below. Although Cody has done an excellent job connecting two wires, and one that, for most purposes, will be quite serviceable, there is no mechanical connection. I was a certified in the Air Force for high reliability soldering, and the first rule for soldering anything is to ensure a strong mechanical connection, since solder has very little physical strength to it. The linesman splice is preferable. Good job Cody!
You can find heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. It oozes out and seals at the edge. Also I like to get a high shrink ratio so its more versatile, such as soldering two wires on one side to a single wire on the other. That way a larger tube can shrink around the single wire, yet be large enough to slide over the two wires.
This video demonstrates FIRST soldering the wires together and THEN threading on the shrink tubing. This is a newbie mistake. Normally one has to thread the tubing on first. There is rarely a bare wire end where you can thread on the tubing after making the joint.
Harvey Cohen learned that the hard way. Always embarrassing when I repeat that mistake once in a while. Mostly do small PCB Assembly for guitar pedals so I don’t use the tubing often enough for doing it right to become second nature.
"Probably tougher than the wire itself"... time for a test wouldn't you say? Would be interesting to see if it is. Start pulling at both ends and see where it gives.
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Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.
That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.
Slip the shrink tube on before you make the connection in case you can’t slide it over an end of the wire! Just a tip!
can you put your belt up on the store?
Great video.. I myself switched to using the self silicone shrink tube.. It works great with one less step.. Peace!!
For me the hardest part of wire soldering is to remember put shrink tube before soldering those two wires.
AND keep it far enough away from the soldering job that it doesn't shrink up before you can use it...! >_
@@simonbelanger3923 ⛪
Been there brother.
Ha ha, I’ve done that a few times myself...very annoying.
@@simonbelanger3923 Exactly, and normally you don´t solder a black wire ( - ) together with a red wire (+) ... :)
Always connect black and red wires. Can never go wrong.
That is correct
kaboom
Ofcourse
Looks like an led trailer light plug/harness so it wouldn't matter
Lol thats pro
I must not be the only one disturbed by a tutorial showing a red and black wire being soldered together
Haha awesome 👏 didn’t even notice, I’m sure it’s for demonstration purpose, since it’s a soldering tutorial not a wiring tutorial
That's not what bothers me the most, it's the way you Yanks pronounce 'sodder' and still call your language English!
@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!
you son of a bi---
@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.
for me as someone who has never done anything in life in terms of electronics this is a very important video for me to watch at 4 am instead of sleeping yes :)
Same, because you never know, amirite?💫
@@Fgbjdhdbccvx we are all subject to the algorithm
I am literally watching this at 4:36 am after coming home drunk from a party in a dormitory
4:15 am ... so close
this info is useful for fixing copper pipes, too
me who uses teeth as a wire cutter/striper and fingers like a soldering iron: thats cute
While the thing is still on
@@MS-fe3vo XD yes
It’s cute that you think anyone cares
@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to
Don't forget to put the shrink tube on the wires before you solder if you can't slide them on whenever you're done soldering.
I've done that more than I'd care to admit lol
Looks like i'm not the only one
Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.
Was anyone worried that he was soldering a red wire to a black wire...?
Viktor Orban In the USA, Black is Live and White is Neutral.
Boss: fix that wiring join them back together
Me: ok
10 minutes later
Boss: WHY IT TAKE 10 MINUTES
"Why it take ten minutes ?"
Guessing you work for "angry Asian".
As a soldering pro I very much approve of this. Your method is pretty much foolproof. A tip: have some molten solder on the soldering iron tip to act as a heat conductor. That way you avoid the long heat up times like you had in your example.
3:44
Its easy to twist wires when they are detached like that, its a different story when they are actually attached to something and in tight spot :D
Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult
So true! I always seem to end up with a twisted up mess!
I'm with you, everything is easy on the bench with clamps... hardly real world
The heat shrink on the alligator clamps is genius.
If you’re going to solder wires in a car or truck, just be sure it isn’t in a harness with any movement at all, since soldering makes the wire end more brittle right near the joint. You’ll notice almost all wire connections are crimped from the factory in an automobile because of vibration, for this reason.
The dab on your iron helps to transfer heat and also cleans your iron a little with the rosin.
Double wall heat shrink will really seal it up.
Tinning the iron does the double duty of transferring the heat faster and it protects the tip from corrosion while it's hot.
Without it, I tend to melt some insulation by the time the solder flows through.
I bought a soldering station last year. It changed my whole view on soldering. It never takes that long to heat up, and it is amazing how easy it is to solder now. Also, always use small solder. It heats up and melts faster and makes life easier. Great video as always.
Great tips! I couldn't tell you how many times I've forgotten to put the shrink tubing on first 😂
First, in real life, dont connect red and black wires :))))
Tinning the tip? It's for improved heat transfer.
see how this made you into a pro, wow!
Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆
@@EenChristJesus yeah I only watched a couple of seconds of the video but the guy definitely doesn't seem like a pro
@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment
that's the wannabe do it all
the "it's not dumb if it works"
You “tin” the tip of your iron to help avoid corrosion when not in use.
You also tin the tip to improve heat conductivity. You’ll notice the difference when applying solder to a non-tinned tip vs a tinned one.
The joining of the wire in this video was perfect technique, which I’m totally stealing.
The reason it was taking so long for the flux to activate was that the wire was conducting away the heat from the solder gun.
The point where the two objects being soldered meet is called a “joint”.
You should apply heat to the joint, and apply solder to where the solder gun and the joint meet. This technique will help transfer heat to the joint faster, getting ahead of the heat dissipation the wires introduce.
Great video. Thank you for making it.
Do you know what the black strand he was holding over the wires? Was he melting something into it?
@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together.
The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.
Anybody else get the feeling this guy learns something and, 20 minutes later, makes a video 'teaching" others?
Pretty sure that's the basis of his entire channel haha.
@@Andy-im3kj Yep - and why not? Seems to be working. Might motivate those with higher skills to do a proper instructional.
Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "
Let's see how many likes you get on you cricket remark. Friggin' fanboys.
he does not have a clue!
If you want to solder faster use wet tip (wet with solder), it will eliminate micro gap and transfer the heat faster onto the wire. That way you wont melt the wire.
Use a mini butane torch and it’s three times faster
After 50+ years in electronics including ham radio I learned some valuable techniques....many thanks!
With you bud👍🏻😉😊 🇬🇧
Like what exactly...?
Like how not to solder wires together.
@@ehtcom
What was wrong with what he did?
Cody-
For non-stranded wire there is the NASA approved technique: ruclips.net/video/O-ymw7d_nYo/видео.html
Was hoping that someone had allready put that link here, otherwise I myself would have searched for that great video on a linemans splice.
thanks for the link, I have never heard of this but I also never solder solid wire. I will try this technique out sometime!
Tinning stranded wire has the effect of making it solid; so this techniques works with that as well.
Did not know that was a NASA approved technique. This is the way I was taught in Principals of Technology in the early 90's
halnywiatr> Cody was soldering stranded wire - is the technique the same?
And can you explain exactly what the problem is with the technique he used?
What would be the failure point and what amount of stress it would take?
I did not address this question to all of the so-called "engineers" and their
self-righteous "I know better because I have a degree" BS, without trying to
be helpful. Every time I look at some of the products that the "Engineers"
have "designed" I think they should be regarded like lawyers, and used care salesmen.
What I do is I use shrink tubing with inner hot glue coating. With this, your wire connections will last till the end of time
True! 3:1 shrink tube with adhesive is my favorite!
I appreciate how often you take a moment to say "thats always how grand dad did it" it reminds me of my own grandpa teaching me skills like this.
The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently
I mean they meet up somewhere
I turn my iron up pretty high and press it pretty hard against the wires but they never get hot enough to melt the solder. And the wire insulation just ends up melting cuz the wires get hot enough to melt them but not the solder, why. I have a decent iron
Don't press it against the wires like he showed in the video. I usually dip the solder in the greasy stuff (I forgot what its called in English, in my language we just call it paste lmao), then put the iron on the wire (with no solder on it) and put the solder in a spot where it touches both the iron AND the wire. Theat way it melts super quickly but also sticks almost only to the wire
In reality a bad solder almost never get your stuff burned
What does is using a small wire for large load.
Use correct gauge
Putting a small amount on the iron helps the heat transfer (tinning)
He did. lol
Freefallpilot65 you do it while heating the wire it useless the way he did it
Absolutely correct. That puddle on the tip helps transfer the heat to the joint. It also helps to put the flat part of the tip on the joint.
Indeed, increases heat transfer. Makes solder flow faster and avoids burning things up.
absolutely, and the wire is probably bare tinned copper no need for flux
I stopped watching at the"clamp them in your vise". Yes because I have a vise under my dash.. where I solder 90% of the time
Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "
@@waltermercado2937 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@jordanhaslam9269 this is not how to solder wires like a pro, a pro can solder wire with two hands. No vice needed. This connection has poor strength compared to twisting the wire ends making an X pattern, then with each hand grabbing the insulation of one wire and the twisted wire end of the opposite wire. Twisting them this way is much stronger, and can be done in places you can barely reach with your soldering iron. You only need your two hands, when you go to solder, the wires are self supporting no matter the gague. Also you heat the piece, letting the solder pass through the piece to the heat source. Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning
@@Anyone700 "Never touching the solder to the soldering iron except for the daily tinning" yes, he mentioned that in his video, I'm not sure why you're repeating it
You should of stopped when he said soldering is better termination than crimping.
How to solder like a pro with the worst soldering iron known to man! 🤦🏻♂️🤣
Seems to work for small stuff
@@scott19087 maybe so but they are a terrible iron
It is pronounced "Sol-der". You will have to trust me on this one. The "L" is not silent. Thank you for entertaining and sharing.
Speaking as someone who has been soldering for a living for 3 decades, there is NOTHING in this video that is "Like a Pro".
Pros don't use a Weller "Firestarter" inductive-heat soldering gun; we use a temp-controlled iron or gun. That thing is literally a short-circuit with a handle.
We NEVER do "twist splice" and solder... that leaves entirely too much exposed bare conductor. We do a simple lap joint, with overlap of approx 2x the diameter of the conductor. Mission-critical connections get a crimp ferrule AND solder before heat-shrinking.
Silicone grease under the shrink wrap?!? THIS IS A HORRIBLE IDEA. Lubing up the heat-shrink almost guarantees that when you're pulling cable, the heat-shrink will slide off, leaving the bare conductor exposed at the joint.
We use self-sealing heat-shrink. It has heat-bonding sealant already applied inside; and unlike your method, it actually adds mechanical strength to the connection. You can do similar by applying hot-glue BEFORE applying the heat-shrink; apply enough that it encapsulates the joint completely and oozes out the ends when you heat the heat-shrink. This makes a PERMANENT, waterproof splice.
PLEASE... go to SOME tech school and actually take a course; learn how to properly prep and solder wires. And take down this horror show before someone burns their house down following your advice. :facepalm:
Thanks for the added info in your answer. I was thinking air tight crimped ferrules was the way to go.
I was gonna say, I was always taught that a lap joint is the way to go. But that was when I was extending wiring for a motorcycle project. So I thought maybe this video showed a better way. But I am glad you confirmed my belief.
@@per.kallberg - Well, crimped ferrules don't make it airtight; especially the ones that come with heat-shrink already applied. But if you use plain crimp ferrules then sealing heat-shrink after crimping, the resulting splice is considered safe for permanent immersion. This is how submersible pumps are wired.
Calm down, mnemennth, this is just another self-professed youtube "pro" regular joe shmo know-nothing jackoff making videos in his moms basement to make himself feel important. It's mostly what the internet is. It's entertaining, that's the only value to it.
mnemennth- you're spot on here. His shtick seems to be grossly overselling his own knowledge/abilities/aptitudes, demonstrating a tool (as a complete hack who himself watched a RUclips video 10 minutes earlier), then providing an affiliate link. I used to really enjoy this channel for it's folksy, down-home ranch stuff but this new formula is just repellent and completely destroys whatever credibility he once had. He has become a RUclips hack psuedo-expert. Sad.
Lineman Splice is better in my opinion
While not wrong in cases where load on wire is not a big concern this is fine. Ford actually foregoes solder and just uses shrink wrap. Their thought process being its easier and faster to replace shrink wrap than the whole soldering process or so I guess. For context sake remember that in a car it's suppose to last multiple repairs with today's electronics.
What world do you live in where you western union splice stranded wires?
Almost any wire can be lineman/western union spliced
fun fact: It took roughly 60 years for wire splice technology to go from simple WU splices, to soldered WU splice, "shotgun" twist sleeves, to the Nicopress sleeves , developed just before WWII, to be eclipsed by IDC connectors used today, such as B-connectors, UG/UY/UR, Picabond/TelSplice...
Much of the innovation can be traced directly to Bell Labs research, and the telephone industry looking for the lowest loss/easiest/cheapest way to join two wires together.
It can be finicky doing a lineman splice with stranded wire, like the ones in this video.
I dunno about professional, but as someone with 10+ years in aircraft cable assembly, that solder splice would absolutely get me fired.
Yeah it's not perfect but this is way better than crimp connectors. What would you change/improve? Do you do that "NASA splice" where the two wires are bent into U's and then hooked and twisted around each other before solder is applied?
@@CassidyHansen Fraying wires is a big no-no on contacts, splices, solder, everything. Flux is not necessary unless you busted out a roll of solder from 1980 or you're dealing with something like 8 awg wire. Also ditch the sealing slime and get some shrink sleeves with glue already within, or splice covers that have the little seals at both ends. As for what I use at home, the lineman splice would be my go-to, but I also have access to M81824/1-2s and crimp tools from work. :)
That's because Aircraft wires are subject to the Fuselage expanding and compressing during Flight and a more secure method is needed. With this method on an Aircraft..the twisted wires could Pull apart or Solder Joints could crack during flight and actually CAUSE a Critical System to FAIL!.. So You are Absolutely Correct in your statement.. However in avg home applications this method should be Fine.
@@kayfluff His way is perfect for us guitarists, except for the flux and sealer. Our guitar cavities have limited space and we don't want large knots (as I have seen) or any kind of connectors.
Lmao
I spent a semester in MIL-spec soldering. You never untwist stranded wire. Tin both ends, bend a hook in each end, hook them on each other, flow some solder. Far stronger than this mess in the video. If you really want something awesome, get some 63/37 eutectic solder and you’ll be in heaven.
Make a video
Mil spec soldering... I'll be dammmmd
I've never used flux before, but recently when soldering wires together, the solder just wouldn't flow and stick, now i know why, great tips thanks.
When soldering, I LIVE by the mantra "skrink tubing hides a lot of sins"
ok, so to be clear, you don't put loctite on the wires to keep them from coming apart?
rjtumble only put on the loctite when you are using an arc welder °F4000 and a Helium shield.
god damnit! lol
LOL 😆 👋 to the Welder !
Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.
In this particular situation, I would recommend taking a swig of loctite prior to the challenge.
You're lucky that booger isn't that important. You are wrong on so many levels, specially concerning the silicone. And you provided a void of an amateur method of soldering. You have no soldering skills, using a 100-140W "GUN" instead of a ~40W iron. You should have 'flashed' the solder on from the top, with the solder between the iron and wire, thus providing instant thermal conductivity for the solder to flow, and to heat the wire and make subsequent proper connection. I bet the wire is 'cold-solder connected' on the bottom, since you wanted NO 'drip'; easily dealt with by capillarity and adhesion to a properly tinned iron. There WAS NO silicone between the shrink tubing and the red end of the wire, and it did NOT seal because of it, but rather in spite of it. The black end is not stuck at all to the tubing--because of the silicone. Best use the silicone for non-soldered connections only--and then it is a mess to work with anyway. Better to keep water away from such connections, and if you can't--just repair it properly.
I have been an electronic Tech for years at a TV shop, but went back to Fuel injection and wire harness repair/troubleshooting of V-Twin KVF750 Kawasaki ATVs, since it pays better, and ppl would rather buy a new cheap stereo/TV/whatever instead of paying to have it fixed. Retired now, the skills I've learned are ever fresh!
Cool, do you make videos? If not you should, you sound very knowledgeable and a lot of people could benefit from that.
back here in Scotland we don't have sodder,we have SOLDER....lol
do you go for waLks instead of waaks too?
@@arcadegamesify don't be daft,Walks is pronounced wawks in Scotland.
That was annoying me too lol. I also saw it in another video by an American
I answered and said, "If I have found favor in thy sight, O Lord, show this also to thy servant: whether after death, as soon as every one of us yields up his soul, we shall be kept in rest until those times come when thou wilt renew the creation, or whether we shall be tormented at once?" 76 He answered me and said, "I will show you that also, but do not be associated with those who have shown scorn, nor number yourself among those who are tormented. 77 For you have a treasure of works laid up with the Most High; but it will not be shown to you until the last times. 78 Now, concerning death, the teaching is: When the decisive decree has gone forth from the Most High that a man shall die, as the spirit leaves the body to return again to him who gave it, first of all it adores the glory of the Most High. 79 And if it is one of those who have shown scorn and have not kept the way of the Most High, and who have despised his law, and who have hated those who fear the Most High -- 80 such spirits shall not enter into habitations, but shall immediately wander about in torments, ever grieving and sad, in seven ways. 81 The first way, because they have scorned the law of the Most High. 82 The second way, because they cannot now make a good repentance that they may live. 83 The third way, they shall see the reward laid up for those who have trusted the covenants of the Most High. 84 The fourth way, they shall consider the torment laid up for themselves in the last days. 85 The fifth way, they shall see how the habitations of the others are guarded by angels in profound quiet. 86 The sixth way, they shall see how some of them will pass over into torments. 87 The seventh way, which is worse than all the ways that have been mentioned, because they shall utterly waste away in confusion and be consumed with shame, and shall wither with fear at seeing the glory of the Most High before whom they sinned while they were alive, and before whom they are to be judged in the last times. 88 "Now this is the order of those who have kept the ways of the Most High, when they shall be separated from their mortal body. 89 During the time that they lived in it, they laboriously served the Most High, and withstood danger every hour, that they might keep the law of the Lawgiver perfectly. 90 Therefore this is the teaching concerning them: 91 First of all, they shall see with great joy the glory of him who receives them, for they shall have rest in seven orders. 92 The first order, because they have striven with great effort to overcome the evil thought which was formed with them, that it might not lead them astray from life into death. 93 The second order, because they see the perplexity in which the souls of the unrighteous wander, and the punishment that awaits them. 94 The third order, they see the witness which he who formed them bears concerning them, that while they were alive they kept the law which was given them in trust. 95 The fourth order, they understand the rest which they now enjoy, being gathered into their chambers and guarded by angels in profound quiet, and the glory which awaits them in the last days. 96 The fifth order, they rejoice that they have now escaped what is corruptible, and shall inherit what is to come; and besides they see the straits and toil from which they have been delivered, and the spacious liberty which they are to receive and enjoy in immortality. 97 The sixth order, when it is shown to them how their face is to shine like the sun, and how they are to be made like the light of the stars, being incorruptible from then on. 98 The seventh order, which is greater than all that have been mentioned, because they shall rejoice with boldness, and shall be confident without confusion, and shall be glad without fear, for they hasten to behold the face of him whom they served in life and from whom they are to receive their reward when glorified. 99 This is the order of the souls of the righteous, as henceforth is announced; and the aforesaid are the ways of torment which those who would not give heed shall suffer hereafter." 100 I answered and said, "Will time therefore be given to the souls, after they have been separated from the bodies, to see what you have described to me?" 101 He said to me, "They shall have freedom for seven days, so that during these seven days they may see the things of which you have been told, and afterwards they shall be gathered in their habitations." 102 I answered and said, "If I have found favor in thy sight, show further to me, thy servant, whether on the day of judgment the righteous will be able to intercede for the unrighteous or to entreat the Most High for them, 103 fathers for sons or sons for parents, brothers for brothers, relatives for their kinsmen, or friends for those who are most dear." 104 He answered me and said, "Since you have found favor in my sight, I will show you this also. The day of judgment is decisive and displays to all the seal of truth. Just as now a father does not send his son, or a son his father, or a master his servant, or a friend his dearest friend, to be ill or sleep or eat or be healed in his stead, 105 so no one shall ever pray for another on that day, neither shall any one lay a burden on another; for then every one shall bear his own righteousness and unrighteousness." .....2 Esdras 7:75
,,,,,,,,,''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
For me the hardest part of wire soldering is missing my grandpa
"That's gonna be your best connection"
Lineman splice: "Bruh"
@@restopesto9448 saaame, it's amazing, never had an issue with it.
You don’t need the silicone paste with shrink tubing. It keeps the glue from tubing from sealing properly. Only use silicone on stuff not shrink tubed. Like spade but connectors
Not all shrink has glue
You can also buy special heat shrink that have adhesive on the ends so there's no need for the silicone
Hot glue, to be precise, yes.
For small gauge wires like that it’s better to use flux core solder for electronics and you have to tin the tip of the soldering iron with a small amount of solder…that’s what helps make the heat connection….otherwise you’re just over heating the parts.
As a mechanic I really like that you are using information passed down to you from your granddad, it is really cool to know that this information is legit because of that
LOL - this made me chuckle 😂
PS: Most Times ..you have to put the Heat Shrink Tubing .... on First !!
Oh boy. That was painful to watch. He got views out of it though.
What u mean
Thanks
Yeah, I'm guessing soldering isn't his strongest skill, but still, if it works it works. He's not soldering medical equipment or anything.
I agree lol
@@endtimes6869 Flux isn't necessary. It's already in the solder. His iron isn't hot enough. It should be hot enough to heat the wires within seconds. Tin the tip of the iron to help transfer heat to the wires. Otherwise you'll just be burning all the flux away with the solder sitting there heating for so long. I've been in almost no situation where "helping hands" could be used. Usually I'll be up under a car with my arms up in the engine bay soldering a wire that's already connected on both ends.
If the other ends of the wires are permanently attached to devices, don't forget, step 1 is to thread the shrink tubing on first. If you have to cut apart your tediously soldered wiring harness once you won't likely forget again. The silicone is a great idea I wasn't aware of.
I have to agree a proper soldering with flex
Thumbs up just for the alligator clip idea.
This must be one of them “for entertainment only” videos.
I like the reference to your grandfather. I’m out in the shop tonight soldering some wires and thought I’d just do a RUclips search to see what other guys are doing. I’m actually using my grandfather’s old Weller gun and I use the exact same method as you. Great video for those who are attempting to solder wires for the first time!
It's not terrible to touch the soldering iron briefly while waiting for the wire to heat up. The small blob will help conduct heat to the wires faster.
As a little note, clean off the rosin flux with rubbing alcohol before you put the shrink tubing on. The rosin is acidic and will eventually eat through the wires.
The worst soldering i have ever seen...
Are you familiar with the linemans splice?
Thank you. I cant believe how far i had to scroll down the comments to locate someone that knows what they are doing. Linemans knot is the only PROPER joint when soldering
I don't recommend the big Weller guns for small soldering jobs. the more old fashioned soldering irons work just fine for small wires and such. The Weller's do work well for most things tho, but they have too much heat for some jobs.
@Leon thecat yep I have several irons and guns. The right tool for the job at hand does wonders. oh, the little drop of solder on the tip gives better heat transfer. you should always get the wires to melt the solder tho for the actual soldering job.
I about passed on this because I thought I knew how to solder. This is a really cool technique. Will definitely be using this!
I thought this was how everyone was taught to solder, how were you doing it?
Same... don't know how strong the joint would be, but it does seems marginally better than just spinning them normally
This is the definition of breaking a butterfly on a wheel ^^
Thanks man... Found this useful... I'm hopeless at soldering.. Hopefully will help.... From Australia.
"Like a pro"... Pro would go back to the tool crib, get a coffee on the way, get a double ended crimp, get a coffee and a smoke on the way back, and use that instead. Sounds like to much of a hassle? We'll talk again wenn your wire breaks at the end of your tinning. They always do.
Yup
Agreed, properly crimped connectors will outlast soldered connections when vibration is present (i.e. autos, boats, planes). Solder is fine for electronics, lamps, toasters, etc.
Not bad but not the best. Would consider you research mil-spec soldering.
Nice joint! And, thanks for suggesting the dielectric silicon grease.
It should be noted that quite often, the joint will be made between either two long pieces of wire or two wires that may already be joined to something at the other ends, so the shrink tubing can't be slipped on easily or at all, after the soldering is done.
There are two ways to address this:
One way is to put an appropriate length of shrink tubing onto one of the wires before soldering, but it should be slid well away from the site of the soldering or it will shrink and not slide over the joint.
The other way is to get some self-fusing electrical tape to wrap around the joint after the soldering is done. This may not always be the best method, but sometimes may be the method of choice... especially if one is simply soldering a wire to a connector of some sort, or "oops! I forgot to put the shrink tubing on before applying the solder.".
Best wishes.
In the near future......decide to not speak. Your how to on soldering is not only wrong but terrible. Re take whatever wiring repair you took.
Take your own advice.
If your gonna reply next time think about your reply first. Better luck next time.
Obviously a comedy clip, excess flux, excess heat, recommending a soldered wire joint for wet/movement area . This video is a lesson in what not to do. Heatshrink is available with glue inside that positively seals and also this is availble on crimp connectors. Flux is acidic and along with the heat changing the annealling of the wire causing it to be brittle is enough to make it fail in an envrinoment that is prone to vibration and moisture. This is why crimping is considered to be industry standard. If there is a need to resist moisture, there are crimps designed especially for that too.
grant Rothwell this was certainly a hack job at best, I’d fire someone who did that in my shop.
Juan horn then why does someone need to “make a video” for you? Plenty of good examples on the internet, Louis Rossman comes to mind.
Why did you use the flux? I was taught when I was in school shop class that I did not need flux for electrical wiring and the reason for that was the electrial soder had flux in it.
David Lingelbach yeah if your using the correct solder for electrical, rosin core typically. You do not need flux. If you do use flux it's a good idea to clean the joint once cooled because certain flux can actually cause corrosion in the joint overtime
if you are joining well vertdegred wires additional flux is a good thing, a new wire would be better but not always an option
Its so the solder dont jend up being just a coat around 2 disjointed clumps of multicored cables.
I've found having liquid solder flux is handy for electrical work, sometimes you need a bit more flux than what's in the solder itself, especially if your iron tip and/or exposed wires have a bit of oxidation. The liquid flux soaks in between the strands of multi-strand wire better than the paste.
Joe Van Cleave yes especially if you have aged components with steel lead wires (like most), if I do any through hole work I'll use rosin flux pen if I have it, if I'm doing surface mount it will be that other stuff with non rosin solder or solder paste with flux in it, it's certainly not a sure thing to use row in core solder for everything but for most people it is adequate but not optimal without additional flux, for joining clean new wires like the demo it would certainly suffice
The reason you tin the iron before touching the connection is so the heat can transfer better to the wires that you are soldering. There’s the potential of way more hot surface area (to melt the solder on top of the wires) when the solder is on the iron as opposed to just having the solderless iron try and heat up the wires
This induction iron is not recommended for circuit board applications it will destroy electronic circuits
No need to paint on the Flux if the solder is already Flux cored. Neat join I like it.
I appreciate the silicone advice, will use that in the future.
Why add the extra flux? Isn't that the point of rosin core soldering wire lol
Well your done,lunch time, two more wires call it a day!!😂😂😂😂😂🚮
You think people who solder for a living are watching videos on how to solder? Dumb
Dont forget to bring back your vise
You can also use the side of the soldering iron (gun in your case) to shrink the tubing. That is what I use and it works just fine. Just rub it over the top of the tubing - yup, rub it.
underneath gives a better spread
I invested in a pair of good strippers, but they graduated and moved away.
You should not be teaching at all!!!! First practice and understand.
I've had an instant Weller since 1969....... 1. You're using the 'edge', not the face of the tip [90 degree wrong] 2. You DO wet the tip with solder - massively increases heat transfer, to the work 3. Took far to long to do it - 5 seconds about right
That's a really great way to ensure joins won't break, but unfortunately it's a bit unrealistic in a lot of scenarios wherethe length of this solder joints is sometimes the whole wire length we have to work. In those cases what i do is try to peel the cables around the same length, make a cross, and twist them in opposite directions, which makes for a pretty solid joint as well in very tight spaces. I'd like to try and apply what was shown here though.
Aside from the complete hash you made of the actual soldering - risking over-heating and damaging the wire insulation - I can't, for a moment, understand why you would put grease on the joint rather than just use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing!? On top of that, why *on Earth* would you use messy flux paste rather than just very common and cheap rosin-cored solder (which doesn't cause corrosion, for those that think it does) designed for this very process?
As a result of the comments to my comments, I watched this again and I am totally gobsmacked by the pedantic and excessively ****LOOOOOOOONG**** way to do an extremely simple job! If this were a heavy gauge wire the technique of meshing the strands together works well but for a small gauge wire like this, the easiest, most reliable and quickest way to do it is to twist the 2 bared ends together and solder that. Then bend it flat and install the heat shrink. The other cosmic failure demonstrated here is that using the 'wet' solder on the iron is by far the better way to get heat transferred to the wire prior to applying the resin-solder. There is 50 times more contact between the molten solder on the iron and the wire strands than using a 'dry' iron. And there is no point in cleaning an already shiny iron on the damp sponge as all it does is drastically cool the iron just when you want it to be hot. Really, this is a far better description of how *not* to do this simple job that would take me about 10 seconds from cut wire ends to heat shrink applied.
He mentioning I think it was his grandpa he may not have known anything else lol
He’s using rosin core solder using flux helps with heat transfer and making it easier for the solder to permeate into the wire, it’s unnecessary but not a bad practice.
Tip 1, get a soldering Iron not a gun. make sure it's 25 watts at least. Chisel tips are wonderful. Tip 2, flux is built into most electronics solder so you don't need to use flux before hand.
But if your solder doesn't have flux, USE FLUX. Soldering without it is pointless self-torture.
why is the flux important?
Jeremy Eden It just makes the solder spread easier and cleans the wires, but wipe it off after you heat shrink.
Comedy gold 😂
No. Just... no.
Explanation?
L. A. Olson well, any stress on this joint will weaken it as the only thing holding the wires together is the solder. You have to wrap the wires around each other if you want it to stand any chance of lasting (see “NASA” splice). Also, in most situations you will not be able to put the stink tubing on once you’ve done the splice.
If you are connecting 2 wires for something like a wire going to a solenoid and it is going to be mounted and is not close to a plug then you don't need to. They are twisted together btw
There exists rosin core solder so you don't have to apply flux each time.
I worked as an electrician and this method is so time consuming and, in 99.9% of the jobs, unwarranted that titling it "Like a pro" is pretty funny. More like: "How to solder wires like a control freak".
I'd recommend a pen style soldering tool, they are easier to handle, lighter and less likely to break than a big solder gun, they are wireless too so you aren't limited by cable lengths. Also, shrink tubes are enough to insulate the wire most of the times, unless they are gonna be directly exposed and you live in an area really damp and with frequent winds that rattle the cable all day, and if you leave the wire in those conditions, that silicone won't do anything anyways. Also, we just used a plain old lighter to shrink them, no need to add yet another tool when you're trying to solder hundreds of wires, it just takes time and costs even more than just something you can put in your pocket.
Thanks four the easy end simple explenation 👌
You don't need to apply flux if it's already in the solder.
I was taught this as the birdcage long ago looks good but crimp and sealed wire hold up better to high vibration
Despite some of the comments below I appreciate this video and learned some things. Thank you. Have a great day!.
yea soldering 2 different colours together
There is only 3 types of accepted solder joints.
1. Tap 'T'
2.Western Union
3. Rat tail
what about graph ?
This is what happens when a plumber tries to solder electronics. Painting the joint with flux beforehand is totally unnecessary. Use electronic grade rosin core solder and the core has enough flux to do the joint. For heating up the wire, touch a small bead to the soldering gun tip and the wire joint to transfer heat then apply solder to the top of joint as showed in your video. Forget the flux paste, you’re soldering wires not pipes! I recommend you watch a good video for soldering electronic components. To others watching this video, this will put you on the wrong track.
i was thinking the same thing
Learned more then I've ever learned from my electric class, in this 1 video, thank you so much really appreciate it, keep it up
Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁
You should use flux cleaner to wipe that joint down before sealing it. The left over flux can corrode the joint inside the shrink tube.
too late its crept up the insulation
Not true. Rosin flux is not corrosive. I have aviation radios from the 1940's and 1950's with rosin flux residue on them: the solder joints are still fine after 3/4 century. You are confusing rosin flux with acid flux, used for plumbing work.
That is not correct. Why would you label this video as to wire like a professional if it's not? A lineman splice is the correct way.
The Dude what’s that? Are you going to educate us?
I am curious what a Lineman Splice is? Did you work for "Ma Bell"? ;-)
Cody, in practice any application where there is a chance for wire movement it is better to use crimp connectors. In the marine and aircraft industry soldering wires is not allowed unless the wire is supported and not allowed to move.
There is no doubt that a solder connection provides the best connection. It come down to the movement of the wires.
Also if you are using core solder there is no need to use paste on the wires. Never use acid core solder on electrical connections either
Dave White stfu no one cares.
Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!
It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.
He's obviously talking for 12v applications, he did say trailer.....
Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?
There is a reason why soldering is abandoned for any application in flight or aerospace.
Its not vibrateproof,it stiffens the wires too much in areas where flexibility is needed.If you choose the right crimp style connectors(not the pre insulated ones) with an insulating and contacting crimp they work just fine.
Bull
I would love to know the origin or reason why Americans say "solder" like "sawder". Like, why not "it's cawder in winter"??
Polk - Pol-k (long o)
Polk - Po-k (long o)
Polka - Pol-kah (long o)
Polka Dot - Po-kah (long o)
It’s solder as in solider in some regions in the US, and solder as in sawdust in other regions. I flip flop between the two. I have a feeling solder as in sawdust started in the New England area and spread from there.
Have to agree with some of the comments below. Although Cody has done an excellent job connecting two wires, and one that, for most purposes, will be quite serviceable, there is no mechanical connection. I was a certified in the Air Force for high reliability soldering, and the first rule for soldering anything is to ensure a strong mechanical connection, since solder has very little physical strength to it. The linesman splice is preferable. Good job Cody!
Is it true that the lineman splice or Western Union slice is designed for solid wire?
You can find heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. It oozes out and seals at the edge. Also I like to get a high shrink ratio so its more versatile, such as soldering two wires on one side to a single wire on the other. That way a larger tube can shrink around the single wire, yet be large enough to slide over the two wires.
Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤
The 3-1 marine type heat shrink works well. It also hardens afterwards, good for some applications not so for others.
This video demonstrates FIRST soldering the wires together and THEN threading on the shrink tubing. This is a newbie mistake. Normally one has to thread the tubing on first. There is rarely a bare wire end where you can thread on the tubing after making the joint.
Harvey Cohen learned that the hard way. Always embarrassing when I repeat that mistake once in a while. Mostly do small PCB Assembly for guitar pedals so I don’t use the tubing often enough for doing it right to become second nature.
I was wiring LED's up on my motorcycle. made that mistake. had to redo 6 different soldering points
do u really think this guy even thought of that? 😂😂😂😂
"Probably tougher than the wire itself"... time for a test wouldn't you say? Would be interesting to see if it is. Start pulling at both ends and see where it gives.