How To Splice Wires Like A Pro
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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EXCELLENT video. It was short, fast pace, no music, great audio, and had unique information. EASILY the best video you have made thus far.
Tsk that was naughty, people aren't "NASA certified", but the wiring standards across industry are pretty much the same. If you saw someone trying to fell a tree with a rock then you'd sigh too. If you want to impress us then buy a ratchet crimp tool, I'll tell you straight you'd be the only guy on RUclips with one, everyone else is using crimp pliers or a hammer.
People don't always appreciate that other professions have their own professional standards too. I can't stand watching other people cook because they do everything wrong. Go feed the dog or something.
So you are equating his soldering job to someone using a rock to fell a tree. His soldering is perfectly serviceable while no one would try to fell a tree with a rock. I wasn't aware false equivalence was being taught in soldering school. Shame.
@@Azathoth43 They do in Minecraft?
Did I see a jump cut? Lol awesome video
TheRockwell25 very dishonest😉 lol
I did TOO! And just when I thought he was going to explain how to transfer heat to the wire with a puddle of solder and then apply solder from the opposite side to make sure you have full penetration... WRANGLERSTAR, you failed us!!
Nice solder in the end though. 😉
That was a good solder joint and soldering technique. You heated the wire and applied the solder to the hot wire.
Overall, I think this video demonstrates good work! At work, they call me an "electronics technician", and as such, I have a few things I'd like to share.
I prefer to use a good quality adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. In your example, I would have unseated one of the connector pins to slide the heat shrink tubing over the splice. If no connector was available nearby, I would have simply cut the wire in half and soldered it back after sliding the heat shrink tubing over it. After soldering and shrinking the tubing, I like to apply Scotchkote to the tubing, especially the ends, for some extra insurance. Afterwards, I like to wrap the whole thing in Scotch Super 88.
I don't worry much about twisting the wires together prior to soldering. Usually, I'll independently wet both components of the splice with solder, then touch them together and apply heat so they bond. I see a lot of the "NASA" soldering stuff, but that really doesn't add any real-world benefit to your work and it often leads to a big ugly lump in your spliced harness.
As an electrician for many years, real good work.
Yup, those strippers are the way to go. I've had a pair of those for MANY moons, and love 'em every time I use 'em. What's the difference between that silicone paste and dielectric grease? My only gripe with dielectric grease is, the tube gets old, cracks, and starts oozing out from there too. LOL Another great product is Corrosion X, which was developed for Boeing and the aerospace industry. The Marine industry in the Seattle area have found that if they're able to do a quick recovery of a boat which has sunk in salt water, hosing the electrical system with this stuff has saved many things from being trashed by the salt water. It's not cheap, but I've had good luck with it on my motorcycle electrical connections for decades now. Being a spray can product, ease of application is a plus, a rag wipes away residue where you don't want it.
If you are going to solder the splice you might as well cut the wire and that way you can use waterproof heat shrink but there is nothing wrong with your soldering.
"there is nothing wrong with your soldering"
.. except the aspects of his technique that you simply had to criticize.
"there is nothing wrong with your soldering"
.. except the aspects of his technique that you simply had to criticize.
I would have spread the wires and woven them first before wrapping the wire.
@@stevegreedo5687 it's actually true. No reason not to cut the wires if they're going to be soldered. It's always better to use shrink tubing.
Actually you don't even have to cut the wires why didn't he use a set of wire release keys 4 wire plugs they look like keys and they release the wires out of your little plastic plugs that's what I always do it doesn't take any longer you release the wire out of the plug that you're going to want the heat shrink tube on Slide the heat shrink tube over it and you're done put the wire back in the plug I do it all the time.... I've got three or four sets of them master wire plug release keys they're very inexpensive and they are super handy
Believe it or not, I was NASA-STD-8739.3(.7) back in the day for technical and assembly work I was doing. I'll forgive you for not using flux! ;) Btw, here's my wire stripper - instagram.com/p/BuC5NoxnG8I/?
It was flux core wire and he soldered virgin copper wire.. The word NASA means to deceive in Hebrew. Who is the ultimate deciever? Satan! Let God be true and every man a liar! Evolution is a lie!!! The big bang is a lie!!! The earth is the center of God's creation... The word horizon means horizontal. Synonymous words for horizontal are:
FLAT ... LEVEL ... EVEN ... PLANE???
Alaska grows the largest vegetables in the world at 60 degrees north latitude... At 60 degrees south latitude no plant life grows at all??? They are both equal distance from the equator?
By definition a LEVEL line can't have curvature.. Standing water is ALWAYS LEVEL. 70% of Earths surface is LEVEL water.. This means the earth is FLAT
Lake Michigan is 577 ft above sea LEVEL... Lake Huron is 577 feet above sea LEVEL.. They are both equal? No change. No curve. No (((GLOBE)))
Thanks Cody. I see the experts are already showing up. :)
Very nice! Thank you.
Also zip tie the extra wire down to give it ability to pull against the solder joint. Also can use liquid tape for a waterproof protection cover of the cut.
Once you try the liquid electric tape. You’ll never go back. Works great!!
I love that stuff!
That stuff works well.
It's messy but I was about to type something similar.
Yes but I still use shrink tube or tape to protect against chafing.
I agree.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
Great Soldering Cody and well done for doing it in front of the camera too you should be proud of that.
Speaking as the current top NASA soldering expert...
...looks good.
What soldering equipment/brands do you use?
Nice soldering.
I'm happy when I can do it on a bench with a third hand and an exhaust fan vs field expedient through a keyhole upside down in the dark during a blizzard with frozen fingers and a dog snuffling your ear.
Oh,and don't forget the asshole foreman telling you to hurry up. Lol.
That wasn't a dog snuffing your ear, it was a wolverine. ;)
That pig tail is cool I’ll be buying some for the shop
I believe you have done this before. but a bit of a refresh for the mind.
When faced with a large connector like that, you can normally release the pin in it. They normally have a one way barb on them and by getting a very small screwdriver or piece of wire, you can push down the barb to release it to get suitable heat shrink tubing over the connection. But nothing wrong with what you've done or the soldering! :D
I like your videos, especially because you research your material before making the video. However, I have to disagree with your splicing. Solder is never used in a professional motorsport wiring harness. A good crimp is generally stronger than the wire itself. Also, solder in a high vibration environment like a vehicle is not recommended because it can break from flexing. Further, you might mention that stranded rather than solid wire is preferred, again due to the vibration and flexing in a vehicle. I waterproof my connections with a base silicone tape, followed by a UV resistant outer tape. If necessary, the tape can be removed without leaving a sticky residue.
You should mention that you need to use rosin core solder for electrical work and NEVER use acid core solder for electrical work.
I think the viewer should take at least a little initiative here, I mean, he didn't show how to plug in the soldering gun either...
But my smart-assed reply aside, there are a surprising number of people that don't know the difference. I have seen many repair jobs soldered with plumbing solder...
Same goes for flux. If you've got something you need to flux for the ease of soldering it, dont use plumbing solder.
I mean.. if a person is watching this video they probably have no idea what they're doing.
Try the 3M mastic sealing tape
I like the searchability idea.
I admit I've had this problem finding your old videos.
One nice thing about instructionals is they're less likely to get "hidden" (I'm looking at you, RUclips Algorithm).
It's also annoying when the title is so vague that it does not give a hint as to what the video is actually about. For example: "We found something in the forest" or "TRAGEDY STRIKES THE HOMESTEAD", the latter being about a chipped tooth on a saw.
the only thing i could suggest you do differently is using self amalgamating tape instead of elec tape, it is waterproof, will never come undone and the one i use is rated to 10,000v
I saw the title and winced because I thought you were going to mess this up, but actually that was OK-ish. Electrical tape isn't the best though, it dries out and then slides down the wire after a few years. Try using self-amalgamating tape, I've got joints that are 15 years old and still feel squishy.
Yeh that butyl tape is great, you cut it and it just reseals. I put fabric tape on top to stop it sticking to everything
I use it on my outside PIR lights, all my neighbours driveway lights failed years ago but mine are as dry as a bone. Anything external is going to get wet and that's the only stuff that works long term, electricians tape is garbage.
Now I have to go look up amalgamating. thanks alot.
After being in the racecar industry I learned early on you can never solder connections that will be subject to any vibration. They will break and fairly quickly because they are too brittle. So we used aircraft quality crimp terminals after that happened a couple times and never had an issue again. It really sucked to be knocked out of a race because of something you thought was the best kind of splice.
With any soldered connection, you cannot rely on simply the solder to make the connection. You must first make a mechanical connection with the conductors, then you solder the joint. With a properly made mechanical connection there will not be a failure due to vibration as you speak of. There are hundreds of electrical connections in a vehicle that rely upon mechanical connections already, and they didn't always have interlocking plastic shrouds to back them up.
Yeah I started using the heatshrink ones with the solder in them,I really like them
@@benningtoncamper2852 That is not true. They were twisted together. They would break right where the solder ended where the connection was the thinnest and most brittle. I talked to many other race teams and NOBODY uses soldered joints that has been in the business for any length of time. It isn't an issue if the wires can be tied down so they won't move but it was industry standard to use very high quality DTM connectors and a DMC AF8 crimper. Most of the time you avoid splices anyway and use a connector that is crimped on. Here is a video of a guy that has the DMC AF8 tool. ruclips.net/video/JiyXpDF4Ca4/видео.html They are not cheap. I think it was about $450 back when I got one about 15 years ago.
@@reiserx you're right. NEVER solder a splice to be used in a vibrating environement.
YES, no one believes me when i tell them crimping is the way to go.
Butyl tape is good for this, just make sure it's covered by that braid
The silicone is a good idea. I usually use Dielectric grease that I get on connections but I need though about using it on soldered connections.
Myself I am fickle about the way my connections look. I would cut the wire and twist in a way so it's straight and use shrink tubing.
But soldered connections are best the plastic wire splices are junk and should only be used in an emergency.
Dielectric grease / and brake slider grease is same thing, also silicone based.
I was fuxing a car inwith were only black wires en we cut them all off en started with some more collors, en we used ony the plastic contetors en they never faild of us
Pry some paint cans with your para 3.
Not uploading HD in your channel should be a crime 😤
Question: lets say you made the poor choice of using one of those splice connectors and you now have 2 bite marks on your wire. Is there a recommended way to seal those up if you can’t get shrink wrap around them? Any kind of rubber paint or filler?
Hey Cody, Official NASA Certified Soldering Expert (NCSE) here. Your soldering looks great. So long as the solder flows smoothly through all joints, it's great. You can see when it's finished when the entire solder is smooth liquid.
10/10
If your splice is exposed to the elements of water, sun ect, try out vulcanic tape instead of electrical tape.
Self amalgamating tape you are talking about?
I have that same stripper but mine is like 50 years old. And solder everything.
Vinyl electrical tape is not weather proof. I work at Chrysler and it’s only for indoor or in vehicle repairs. Any tape on the outside of the vehicle exposed to weather is a hockey style fabric tape approved for water and dirt.
Get some brush on liquid electrical tape. Lasts forever and seals so well it is used on submersible pump wires that will be submerged past the splice.
you should have used a black wire again to really drive them nuts
its a million dollar video
I've been using those fuse taps for YEARS. They are reversible, easy to use and work great. They only two problems are how much space they take up and finding always on circuits. Because they overlap neighboring fuses, you can only use them about every 4 fuses. If you need it to be powered when the key is removed, the only real option is to tap the door locks or security system fuse. If you need it on while turning no further than the accessories position, then you also have everything associated with the radio and maybe a 12V outlet. Putting those taps on anything else, you will want to add a switch and make sure you have that switch open while starting your vehicle, otherwise the spike from the starter kicking off could fry whatever is attached to it, particularly LED control boxes.
Nice soldering
what a minute, are you claiming to get rid of your CLICKBATE video titles!? GOOD about time
crimp not solder, it is the way
This was VERY helpful. I have a lot of stuff down, but wiring and electricity...not so much. I've been shocked more than once. Thank you.
Careful! You said "trigger"! The demonitizer might be "triggered"!
I know. I comment on the strangest things.
You don’t know how to Sauter
Another amazing teaching moment. I have a trailer to require and would have done it half way. Now I know better. Thanks
Please tell me you are not going to use the Trace/Xantrex charge controller you briefly held up!!! As a solar engineer I am watching closely to your endeavors...
That harness looks like its from a Prodigy brake controller.
I have a soldering gun like the one you have and it’s Garbage it doesn’t even work I think it was my grandpa’s
Weller is the best...
@@benningtoncamper2852 no doubt...
My buddy suggested I start using Liquid Electrical Tape, it has been amazing for when you can not get shrink tubing on a connection.
I have to admit that you are kind of my guilty pleasure as some of your views on life are a little "out there" for a socialistic swede like myself... But damn i respect your NO bullshit opinions and views on everything.
Do likes and dislike have an effect on your revenue?
It's known as a T-splice, also see Western Union splice for joining two wires.
Cody I work as a part time instructor and I am a service manager at a truck dealership I find no problem with your technique but might I make some suggestions 1 if you use a pin removal tools to remove the pin from the connector so you could slide you shrink tube 2 if you cut the wire use a non insulated barrel connector that you can crimp and solder and the use your shrink tube always use shrink tube with glue so it seals your connection this is the suggested method that I teach in my electrical classes I teach keep up the good video very good content
How you liking that para 3?
solder joint looked good. might need to start cleaning the flux residue off. also get a kit to pull the pins out of the connectors so you can run the dual wall heat shrink.
One slight misnomer was evident in the video. The insulation covering the wire is not a shield. If this were a shielded wire, a different process would need to be used to create the connection. Hey, in shooting videos, anyone can misspeak calling a widget a whatsit.
Cut, crimp, and weatherproof the connection. No solder. That makes the wire brittle and prone to breakage.
That factory end has no solder. It is properly crimped and weatherproofed. There is a reason why.
RUclips: This is how NASA solders.
Viewers: Why didn't you solder it like NASA says to solder ?
RUclips channels: I'm not NASA.
Me: NASA is doing a linesman splice.
Reply 1: No that's a NASA solder.
Reply 2: Why didn't you do the NASA solder ?
It's really an annoying cycle....
@@tylerpearce2000 I was just referring to how the comment sections in any videos with soldering videos became after the video about how NASA does it.
If we didn't have standards that everyone agreed were the best way to do something, then we'd still be living in Detroit. I'm OK with doing things that NASA thinks is OK and ignoring people who just do what their Dad did
Just de-pin it to get shrink tubing on. Use two pieces, a small one for the single wire side, big for 2 wire side then overlap them.
Nice video. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
I'm not NASA certified, but I am PACE certified. I think you did a nice job. If your up for some suggestions. You could have removed the connector from the connector block and then slipped the shrink tubing on and then pushed the pin back in. You typically just need something like a paper clip to remove the pin from the block. Another option is to cut the wire and then used a number of splice joints to get it all back together. My favorite splice is the "Western Union", super strong and very reliable. You would've ended up with a shorter red wire so I understand why you did what you did. I would've removed the connector pin from the connector block to slip the shrink tubing onto the wire. Again, what you did was fine though you would not have passed the certification testing. LOL :)
I see Cody got a Para 3 to replace his Bugout! Can’t go wrong with the paramilitary series
Not a spyderco fan myself. Something about that hole in every blade they make just annoys the hell out of me, it just looks stupid in my opinion.
@@beakerunrefined4230 I agree to a certain extent, some of their models it works and just flows with the rest of the design. Others it looks just tacked on just because it's their thing.
The "sheath" you are cutting is INSULATION not "shielding". "Shielding" is a covering that prevents the emission of electromagnetic radiation. It looks something like the mesh wire loom you have on the harness but it's a braided conductor. Coaxial cable typically has a grounded shield around the conductor. Your harness doesn't.
Here’s your NASA solder nasty comment (just so you’re not disappointed). Grumble, grumble, gripe, gripe. You should have done it this way, this is how my grandpa taught me, I’ve always done it like this, the best way is like this, it will never work like that. All in good fun, love the videos and am learning so very much. I didn’t grow up with someone to teach me these things, so at 50+ years old maybe I can impart some wisdom to my grandson. Thanks again.
Electrical tape turns nasty after a while. The glue on the tape never really cures and makes a sticky mess after a couple of years.
Use "self amalgamating tape" for splices and for re-wrapping a loom where you've removed the factory wrapping. I only found out about the stuff last year after my ATV wiring got eaten by mice, it makes a watertight non-sticky cover over the whole thing and works great.
---
EDIT: Just saw that about a million other folks have said the same thing ...Yeah, what they said.
Splicing is hardly ever an ideal solution although it is sometimes necessary. Solder creeping up the jacket can cause the cable strands to fray as it bends. IDCs don't work well on stranded cable and also introduce resistance.
As far as insulation goes, electrical tape is my least favorite because it always goes gummy, especially in a hot, moist environment like an engine compartment.
A good insulator might be something like Sugru, Steelstik or some other moldable glue or epoxy product.
Also 3M (and probably others) make an electrical wrap without adhesive which might do well in this kind of application.
Aircraft electrician here, take pro out of the title, a pro would extract the terminated wire from the connector and slide the proper shrink tubing over the splice. Seriously?
"Cause if you use quality shrink tubing it kinda almost has something kinda built in...." Yeah, it's called adhesive. And I like how we mock critique on proper soldering but then realize the wire was spliced in from the wrong direction, again stuff that a pro would have fitted first to see if that would actually work before making a permanent splice. Lol. It's called flux and its purpose is to ensure that you get heat into the wire quickly without overheating the insulation and a proper wick/wetting is achieved with a clean weld. Even if the solder has flux in it, for this job it would make sense to apply flux to the joint first. Professionals don't tend to take chances with melting things and taking forever.
1) splices in vibrating environements ARE NOT to be soldered. the splicing itself will mechanically hold just fine. where the solder has entered the copper by capillarity, ta stiff section will be in direct contact to a flexible one, where solder didn't reach. this makes for a perfect point of failure and theerefors shouldn't bedone, a good crimp is the way to go.
2) your "error" about the direction of the splicing is actually what you NEED to do to provide your newly wired splice some give, or strain relief so that pulling on that cable does not directly pull on the splice but on the small margin given by that small crease or loop.
I enjoy your “How-to” vids. That fuse/splice tap is pretty cool!
Hi Cody, apart for the fact that this video was very interesting, please test the effectiveness of dish soap as class a and b foam, that would be super cool!
Keep up those content- packed video
Ok, this is a fine way to splice a wire that is not exposed to vibration or moisture, but this is not how a pro would do it. I've been professionally building automotive wiring harnesses for 5 years and you are not supposed to use solder or electrical tape. Solder will wick through the wire and cause it to lose it's flexibility. Also, a pro would de-pin the connector or cut the wire so that heat shrink could be placed over the splice. The splice in this video has no strain relief at all. Sure, it will get you on the road in a hurry, and probably for quite a while, but one day this wire will fatigue and break.
You are the only commenter i found that speaks of removing the wire from the plug, making the modification or repair and then re-assembling. It seems like our repairs would amaze most on here. Great days to you !
12:32 am in new Zealand but stuff it I saw the notification and couldn't wait till morning/ ps please do more axe videos
Are you watching New Zealand vs India match ?
Why didn't he just release the wire out of the plug it's easy to get them wires to come out of the plugs especially if you have a set of them release keys they're very inexpensive release the wire crimp out of the plug slide it out slide your heat shrink tube over it put the wire back in the plug and done then you don't have to cut the wiring or cobble anyting up it's done the best way possible.... and there's actually a braid technique that you do when you are splicing wiring like that that will not pull apart..... I'm sure there's videos on RUclips showing that technique as well..... also there is a really good liquid electrical tape out there now better than that cheap stuff they have that works really well also if the heat shrink tube is not a possibility...... I guess to each their own but if I was going to be showing someone how to splice wiring and didn't know really what I was doing I would want to watch a few videos and make sure I had the technique down before I had my million plus subscribers performing the task in a shotty way there's a lot of people who probably watch this video and do it that way I'm sure it works just fine but why not do it the proper way and the best way possible that's what makes RUclips and the internet so wonderful you can do a little research in advance and make sure you're doing it the best way possible especially when you have a lot of people counting on you and taking your advice.....
Doing it, stripping wire, with a sharp knife also scores the wire which is a problem on smaller wires especially in an application where the wiring has to flex/move during operation and can lead to connection issues over time. It's even more of a problem if anyone goes behind the work and lots of bending and flexing. Its is more common issue encountered when encountering abdulla the butchers fine craftsmanship as a saboteur whos technique was evolving
This is a bad idea. Soldering wires on vehicles is not smart. It is prohibited by the FAA to solder any wires on an airplane. It is always better to cut the wire and use a crimp connector. The reason is the solder causes rigidity where it Wicks into the strands and what was once a flexible wire now is stiff and vibration and motion will cause the wire to eventually crack and fail. I tell you the FAA explicitly prohibited the practice on airplanes decades ago.
if you're this close to a connector end just make up a "piggyback" a no cut way to take power from a factory harness. Look up wiring piggy back if you don't understand how it works.
I am reluctant to say this.. but!!!... if you can get that Electrical Tape TIGHT??!! IT will give you a water tight seal
any ideas on soldering if all you have on hand is 12v? suck your battery with an inverter? run your car while you use it?
I have limited 12v power out in the forest and I generally hand wire everything because heating elements use far too much power.
I call those blue connectors "cheaters" , if u want a wire to corrode and fall apart then use one of those. Same as black tape. That stuff should be outlawed for use on copper. I only use it for taping wires and loom together... it is NOT for splices or joints.
At NASA, they generally solder wires in spacecraft. Its a tried and tested under high stress, high shake environments, as long as its done properly.
I really wish more people would just try to do there best. They may not succeed so long as they try. Every day that I go out you see where people instead of doing the job right cut Corners ended up working harder trying not to do the work then if they just done it right the first time and went on. And it's never their fault. It's always someone or something else like there's this giant Cosmic spirit that just will not let them succeed.
I don't mean to be "that guy", but some (rarely) wires are woven anti-clock wise so you might need to look at the braid pattern before you twist the wire just so you don't start untwisting them.
If you have trouble with solder joints breaking for any reason, chances are good you don"t solder correctly (cold joints, etc.).
But you didn't use flux that was the first thing they taught us at NASA 😆
Why always twist the wire clockwise? If you aren’t using screw on connectors does it really matter?
Enlighten me.
I have a question wouldn't it have been easier to just cut the wire, strip both ends and then tie all three wires together. Then you could have slide some shrink tubing on, and also you would be a lot less likely to damage the wire.
Why can't you cut the shrink tubing and wrap it around and overlap tubing and shrink it?
The funniest thing is that the linesman joint is now called Nasa joint - even though NASA calls it linesman joint.
This has probably already been said but you can depin most connectors to use shrink tubing.
Your soldering is fine, but how do you manage with the hair piece slipping over your eyes? :)
Never use a scotch lock as a retired ASE tech I used a fresh single edge razor blade to do the same thing then liquid wire tape and regular electrical tape
Not bad, but also consider liquid electrical tape as an insulator, but don't get it on your hands, it's a nasty chemical after all.
Nice video ... but I like your trick with the crocodile clips, I never thought of doing that :)
Nice soldering but you should probably get a decent soldering iron not a soldering gun like that
Great video! May I ask what if u got six wires to splice, three for each end in particular. THX
I do a lot of electrical, and use the dorman liquid electrical tape to seal, and protect connections like this.
I call those wire strippers “reverse alligators”
Don’t ask me why but it makes sense to me 😂