Pro Tip: ***contrary to the instructions on this video, the proper way to solder is to completely coat the exposed wire with solder were you can no longer see individual strands, this ensures complete depth and prevents hot spots in the wire joint...remember, to apply enough solder that it complete covers every strand without excess run off***
@@shouldabeengone what he did is perfectly fine, if you it like in the video you will pretty much get a perfect connection every time, what truckers wall of shame said is to presolder the ends of the wire, which is sonething youd do when soldering the wird to a connector or something but certainly not when connecting 2 wires. Just du it like he did in the video, preferably the first method, hope i can help you ✌🏻
@@shouldabeengone even though he probable got a full connection, he used to little...people forget that the melting point of solder is lower than the burn point of the insulation. Electrical wiring can get hot enough to melt solder., when doing electrical wires you want the most amount of solder possible to dissipate the heat...because of this, he used to little...dont get me wrong, I'm not bashing him...his technique is good, just needed to add a bit more solder
Agreed. He didnt use enough solder in the first joint. You should not be able to see bare copper the way you can at the bottom of his 1st connection. To boot, the silicone paste should be on the insulation as well as the bare wire before installing the heat shrink tubing. This will ensure 100% waterproof behind the heat srink as well as the joint.
Touching the solder to the iron, just a little bit to melt a small blob on the wire/iron junction while warming the wire will help it heat much faster as the liquid metal provides a better thermal conduction than two solid round metal things rubbing.
If you are soldering delicate electronics with that "chip-hammer" you are risking melting the jackets, or something along the cable or circuit board. A dab of solder on a pencil tip is more than enough if you can't control the heat when it's too much!
I work in electronics manufacturing and I don't 100% agree. Especially the grease on the wires is not needed. There are many ways to connect wires. All the industrially accepted wire connection methods are in the IPC standards. There are many shrink tubes with hot melt inside, that is corrosion resistant without silicon grease. Also don't use this soldering pistol for electronics soldering.
those self solder heat shrink tubes are my new favorite thing for quick jobs in the workshop or a car/trailer. also perfect for keeping in the ute when all you need is a heat source to do the whole job.
Thank you. And he didn't mention matching the flux to the solder being used. If the solder has a flux core, the flux used MUST match the type used in the core. Same goes for solder wick. Best way to go is unfluxed so that you can just use what you have. And yeah, those gun irons suck for any kind of precision as well as heat control. PVC 300V has the tendency to melt, shrink back, and burn with too much heat applied. It really is best to put a bit of solder on the iron and use the flux in the core to start the flow rather than getting 8" of the wire up to 250 degrees and melting everything.
As someone who's worked in a radiator Manufacturing facility and worked with solder, Brazing and Different types of torches for 30 years, this video is a Thumbs up 👍🏻
I would not recommend that giant clunky Weller. There are tons of inexpensive and smaller units that are waaaaay easier to hold. Some even have adjustable temps. Dont buy the Weller gun
I agree. A soldering gun with over 200 watts of power is overkill if you're just soldering together a couple of low voltage wires. A 30 or 40 watt soldering iron is more reasonable for the application. Weller also makes smaller soldering irons as well as more precise temperature-controlled soldering stations.
That’s what I was thinking too. I haven’t had to use one of those since the 90s. But it does have a trigger to control the heat and a lot of the cheaper lighter ones just stay on and hot as long as they’re plugged in.
The Weller soldering iron is hilarious. It's ok to melt the solder on the iron, this isn't copper pipe and a torch. "Super charging" your solder joint with silicone is not needed. Just clean the flux off and it won't corrode... This is a bad tutorial.
Totally agreed My dad is an engineer watching him soldering wires from my childhood he never put iron underneath the wire to heat it up and melting solder on top of the wire He melt the solder on iron and apply it all over wire basically covers the whole naked wire in solder
Flux for plumbing is different than for electronics. Don't ever use plumbing flux as it will corrode everything. Don't buy a soldering iron pistol for soldering electronics, they are overpowered. Buy a normal soldering iron.
This is not the right type of tool for this job. I far prefer a chonky weller iron (100w) with a thick fat tip. The gun type you have does not have a lot of thermal mass and you have more chance of damaging components aroud the iron by "waiting" for the wire to get hot.
These type of guns have loads of excess power instead. Usually over 200W. They work really well when working thicker wiring when no thermal mass of any iron could keep up.
This video is for making waterproof connections. You need these for places that regularly come in contact with water. Like in industrial water purifiers, rooftop solar panels or even garden wiring that will be buried under earth.
First, the rosin will melt and wick into the wire mesh once heat is applied so there is no need to waste time working it in. Second, isopropyl alcohol will clean off the flux after the solder is applied. Third, it is important to slide the heat shrink tubing over one of the wires before making the connection; it must be slipped over an open end and frequently the connection joins the last two ends.
@@jonmayer This kinda comment is exactly why I keep coming back to the interwebs. It’s almost like an abusive relationship, where these golden moments of sarcasm, satire, and irony are what make enduring all the other insanity and bovine scatology worthwhile. A long winded way of saying “keep smackin’ her,” metaphorically speaking;)
Dielectric grease is a waste of time, causes the shrink tube to slide off over time and prevent the glue from sealing, heating the wire from below puts too much heat in the wire and damages the insulation, its fine on small wires but larger ones will cause issues. Melt the solder over the wire with the iron and heat from below when theres more surface contact area to transfer heat in to the area instead of 6" down the conductor melting the insulation. Heating the entire wire also causes the solder to flow further down the wire causing the entire area to be come stiff, its also a giant waste of time. Ive soldered thousands of joints that lasted my entire career.
Thank you for pointing out the grease causing the tubing to slide off. Just get the tubing with the adhesive and problem solved no need for fancy grease
Pro-Tip: use these heat shrink tubes with glue (they are a little bit shinier than the normal ones on the inside). They won't slide of and they're helping by making the Wire stiffer, so that the wire won't Break at the end of the solder Connection...
@@leaftye I often use different Layers of heat shrink tubes. In my cables are often two or more wires. So I am insulating the wires one by one and after that I will push one ore two Heat shrink tubes over THWe whole cable, so that the repaired Part is fully covered within these upper heat shrink tubes.
Because it's a British spelling of a French word. Even thought there's an English version too! Everything is wrong to someone else! I mean, RP, based on society women with speech impediments, somehow took hold after the colonists declared independence and now many brits don't pronounce final rhotic "r"!
Personal preference but I have moved away from silicone grease and sponge method of tip cleaning. Hot glue lined heatshrink all the way and those 'coiled brass' scrubbers are amazing time savers. Love the video.
Was gonna post the same thing, but all these tutorial vids are made the same way we would probably make them, for instruction, then it is up to the repairer to apply these principles the best way possible, lying on your back, in the mud, under the truck, in the winter, 30 mph wind, or cramped up, in your bobcat, or under the hood of the car, 100 degrees out ,max humidity, mosquitos and ants all over you.
@@treeguyable i wouldnt advise solder if the cable is going to flex or vibrates a lot, there are better and quicker methods for that (clamping them together with a connection piece idk if there is an english term)
Messed up. The isolation is overheated and melted. If that was multiple phase hi-voltage wire that would cause the fire hazard. Mistake was about melting the tin through the wire directly. Took too much time. If you drop the melted tin on the cold wire covered the flux, it would be saturate exactly the same way.
You wouldn't want to solder a joint on a high voltage cable, I imagine that's against the regs, you would need to use a clamp joint, and faulty cables should be replaced, not repaired if at all possible. Remembering high voltage is 35 to 230 Kv.
Yeah should note I've never soldered anything over 24v. My note of the strength of high voltage insulation comes from heat shrink covering crimped lugs.
@@joewoodchuck3824 they heat up way way faster than pen-style irons at the same price Edit: and they provide full electical isolation from mains, cheap soldering irons can fuck that up and screw you and your electronics with 120/240v
the original was to be set upon word was to be aluminum, apparently editors or some science thing decided to stick another i just because it goes with -ium. aluminum sounds way better and more consistent than Al U MiN EE uM. especially al/lumium which were the first thought of words when the metal was found before settling on aluminum and having it pointlessly changed to aluminium. solder isnt even with an l in older forms such as sou-der or -dure. unless you go all the way back to solid-are and solid-us. the british-english who often dwell on things to compensate for their lack of intelligence unlike those of them who probably paved the way for them, and are more productive, dont seem to get anywhere except to pointless problems.
@@rockefelleragent1357Flux is phenomenal. But these channels are all jazzed about preventing corrosion and shrink tubes and silicon grease BUT THEY NEVER CLEAN THE EXCESS FLUX OFF
I suggest washing off extra flux with isopropyl or flux off. The lingering flux is a corrosive and will crew away at the wire over time. It's not as effective when cold vs when it's hot. However it's going to react with the wire just like it does when it's hot. Washing it off helps with the longevity of the solder joint.
First Rule: DO NOT WEAR VIOLET GLOVES ! They must be green with red polka dots. Second Rule: Do not use silicone grease or transparent shrink tubing, use shrink tubing with hot melt glue inside.
Great video. I prefer marine heat shrink. It has a waterproof material inside that melts when you heat it causing a waterproof seal without applying anything else. It’s just one less step.
Why use flux paste when using rosin core solder? I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the only time I find you need flux is when using acid core solder and joining copper pipes.
My rule of thumb is a mechanical bond first (bend each wire into the other and twist), followed by the solder. Working around vehicles and wiring them up, they are subject to vibrations and solder loves to crack with vibrations if the wires arent mechanically bonded first. Followed up with Marine Grade heatshrink, the internal glue further reinforces that mechanical bond and creates a weatherproof seal.
You should be using cold welds instead of solder due to this. It sounds counter-intuitive, but crimps are the way to go. Cold weld joints are much more durable, even if that sounds weird
@@dwaynemcallister7231Absolutely, factually, incorrect. I'm sure you're happy with the hairline fractures that develope in a vibrating environment in the soldered connection as well as the fact that you're going against the grain of the marine and aviation industries.
Pro tip: If you are doing wiring repairs in an automotive application keep it to a minimum and only do so on circuits that are securely held in a loom with minimal vibration or flexing. Soldering makes the wire brittle, which is why very few wire connections are soldered by manufacturers. Factory style terminal crimps, or Quality weather proof connectors are the best option.
Except in the wire bundle from the cab to the door. Those breaks are a nightmare and even the best crimp will fail. Best to add a good piece of wire to the broken area and solder and shrink with dual wall rather than anything else. Give it a dogbone outside the crush area, fold and tie with waxed thread.
If you want to solder like a pro, upgrade that outdated soldering iron for a hakko. Remember to turn the wire around after you soldered -- chances are it didn't flow to the back side. Put the shrink wrap on first. And use marine grade shrink tube because it has a glue in it. This video is all about how not to be a 'Pro'.
@@miguelcastaneda7236 that doesn't mean anything.. Not everyone needs subscribers attention! But I get it.. He could have said it in a different way! Also every one can develop their own techniques. I don't use the dielectric grease for soldering.. Only for plug connections! If soldering for wet conditions I use marine heatshrink, it's not 100% all the time or forever, but it's pretty good!
@@polla2256 the battlefield also provides you with electric energy to weld right? on the battlefield you just use solderseal wireconnectors, clamp it and heat with lighter or just tape it together till in a safe area
Scientists and engineers at JPL/NASA do NOT suggest using the twist bindings you show. I was taught how to solder by one of their scientists. Most likely, the type of twist is relative to the job. You should probably state that.
Love your videos, but I think this one should be revisited. NASA uses the Lineman's Splice for a reason - it's better. Also called the Western Union Splice. Skip the grease and use waterproof adhesive heat shrink. Normal heat shrink has no adhesive and the only keeping it slid over the joint is friction and shape. With the waterproof heat shrink the adhesive on the inside glues it to the insulator, solder joint, everything. Lastly, I'd use a soldering iron vs gun for this.
Me when I want to make a water tight connection I use small pieces of hot glue that I put in the heat shrink tube and when I apply heat it melt the glue and seals everything. The plus with the hot glue is that the solder now has a strain relief and it won't break as easy just beside the solder in an application where the wire would band alot.
Pro tip, after touching the sodding iron to the wire for a second or two, add a little solder right where the iron is touching the wire to make it conduct heat much faster to avoid melting the insulation.
@@bartoszhuptysiowski1855 it's the same idea of a shampoo two in one, they try to simplify things in a single object but end up making something half good in two things.
@@williamgodoi9971 Yeah, and that's why energetic companies using this to repair high voltage cables. I'm using it in Offroad vehicles with no complaints. Try first to say something about quality.
This video should be named how to waste solder on excessively large joints. Whats happened to just tinning each wire and splice together. So much neater, easier, faster, less waste. These tips are horrendous.
@@craigjohnstone87 Your method may be ok for the lightest duty stuff with thin wire, but for anything more than that a western union splice is best. I agree there is excessive solder though. A fraction of this would suffice.
Nice presentation. It is good to note that the lineman's splice is used in situations where the wire may be under strain. It is so called because it was traditionally used in the telephone industry to patch phone line. If done properly, the splice is stronger than the wire.
Ideally you would just want to tin each end and then solder the two tinned ends together. IPC recommends never twisting a copper wire because copper becomes more brittle the more you bend it and this will be amplified in environments with temperature extremes. Contorting wires like this video does would make it more likely that solder does not make full coverage on each individual strand. Also dialectic grease is a bit unnecessary. I think a good appropriately sized shrink tubing with adhesive should seal it and insulate well. If you are really worried, just layer the tubing
When you say "solder the two tinned ends together", do you mean just placing the two ends side by side so they overlap, then just touching them with the iron so the existing tin joins the ends? Or use fresh tin?
@@kingcrumpet the first thing you said. Tinning just refers to flowing solder on the wire. I will say that doing this by hand isn't always simple, but something I did when I did this in a production line was make wooden races for different gauge wires and then I wouldn't need 3 arms to hold the 2 wires while soldering.
@@tunina6421 Understood, thank you for replying so quickly. I need to solder in a new section of ignition coil wiring tomorrow to get my friend's car running again. I think rats chewed through it! Nothing like working on a production line to make you good at something!
The wire will break before a good solder joint breaks. No need for fancy twisting/joining of the wires before soldering unless it just makes it easier to hold the wire while soldering. I tin both of the exposed wires, then solder them together side by side. Keeps a low profile for heat shrink and is easier for me.
@@dustin9258 Ofcourse it does. Just look up metal conductivity table. For your usage it doesnt matter, but for accurate measuring devices it does make a slight difference. And slight is sometimes important
@@dustin9258 Solder is about 10x worse conductor than copper, if you get better contact area between copper wires, the resistance will be lower, thus the voltage drop will be lower too. Its a small difference but a difference is a difference.
Things to watch out for. Modern wires can be copper coated on steel. Saves on copper and makes cable cheaper. Solder for electrical, electronic use is mainly lead free. Not accepted in military equipment. Silicon sealant building grade has acetic acid in. Again should not be used. Cheers from old George Forgot to mention soldering guns that have large current at tip create a magnetic field that can damage some electronic components and can attract steel particles into solder. Such as metal dust from filing metal etc.
Hey friend or whoever has soldered, the solder joint should be uniform and shiny without cracks or edges or tin, also I do not recommend using the weller to tin cables, I recommend using a pencil soldering iron for rough use for the joints and clean the excess of tin with isopropyl alcohol, another tip is to sand the wires a little to ensure the union of the wires, I have been soldering for 10 years and I was surprised to see this typical rookie mistake, greetings ;)
The puddle on the iron transfers heat faster. Feed a puddle before holding against the wire, the puddle actually transfers the heat to the project, but if you're using this style of soldering gun, it's irrelevant because the surface area of the tip.
Electrician here, keep note these create what we call hot zones. All those wires clumped together cause the amperage to change, basically it's like pushing water through a smaller tube after being in a bigger one. Except instead of water it's electricity and it creates heat. Only use this with smaller voltages like in computers.
if you get the marine heat shrink, it has the goop inside it already. The purpose of flux is to break surface tension of liquid solder, but it really helps move the heat too, so I gob it on then alcohol it off afterward.
Safety tip: notice how he has gloves on any time he applies the flux paste. I highly recommend wearing gloves and if you do a lot of this type of work, I highly recommend wearing a respirator and definitely DO NOT breathe in the fumes... it will cause damage to your lungs and throat. Great video.
Your video is excellent. Just a couple of points. I prefer to keep the soldering gun above the work to avoid excess solder and flux running down the tip. Also, in electronics, especially fine connection work, I disagree with heat up the work first. The reason for this is you can damage components and melt insulation of wire. Instead what I've learned and practiced for decades is to get make sure the tip of the soldering tool is hot, and to apply the solder to the place where the tip meets the work, usually at the same time the tip touches the work. Because tips tend to be round and the work as in the case of wire is round, the actual contact area between the two is small and so heat transfer is slow. By applying the solder to the place where both contact, you use the solder itself to instantly expand the contact area instantly and heat transfer rate significantly. This seems to create much better results. If you try it you will see what I mean. FYI - the notion of heat the work first is still around but it's origins I believe are from things like plumbing and soldering tin, etc. Not the best for electrical from what I've experienced.
Spend a little more money on adhesive lined heat shrink and you won't need that 3m silicone paste. It will make a stronger connection by gluing both wires insulation together so the connection doesn't have to rely on only the solder.
Don't clean the iron before you put it away, leave it covered in solder to protect the tip. Dab a small amount of solder to the tip before you start, it will help transfer the heat. Clean the flux of before you put the silicon on. And most importantly, if you ever plan on removing this connection, then don't do anything you see here. Just tin each wire, then lay them side by side, and heat the solder to join them.
Ive got a cheap soldering iron and it works fine. Been using for years The 2nd one is how i first started soldering, also started by using solder against soldering iron. Then my dad learnt the proper way then showed me
There are better brands to solder with. Different tips, solder and fluxes. Also, the heating iron. They have awesome types to choose, better than that solder gun. Its ancient. Look at solder stations. Hakko brand is sweet! Interchangeable iron tips too!!
@@SilverCymbal Did you get the one with the separate mppt controller that you plug in as well, you no, the one that hobotech got. If so, I have my own victron mppt controller but I need some information first like float charge equalization voltage & so on. If you could get that information from your external mppt controller they give you then I can use my own mppt controller instead of the junk they give you with it. If you don't mind that is. Lol
Some basic tips, but the chosen soldering iron definitely looks like it can get too hot for smaller wires. Always keep that in mind. Also, if you have enough wire to really solder properly, always go for the western union splice, AKA the one used by NASA standards. ;)
@@tylercampbell3134 only partially, if you don't use solder. It has does a perfect connection with these strandedwires as well using solder. Only downside is the large wire area that becomes "stiff", but I never actually found that to be a problem, as I don't even try to attempt the western union splice if the wire isn't long enough due to lack of fine motor skill :(
Adhesive lined shrink tubing is far superior to applying silicone grease and using regular heat shrink. It's kinda expensive but it's worth buying the good stuff.
Thanks for watching - PLEASE LIKE & SUBSCRIBE 🔥My favorite tools: www.amazon.com/shop/silvercymbal
You should've had the NASA method ,just to show people what overkill looks like
Finally someone who can show how to solder... Thank you
@@engineer_pirate_hunter Or all of the IPC approved methods. I actually use the NASA method for solid wire or components to stranded wire.
@@engineer_pirate_hunter 0
Тот момент когда паяешь такие провода обычной зажигалкой с турбинкой
Pro tip: Remember to slide the heat shrink on the wire BEFORE soldering the joint!
Very good point!!!!!
lols i wish i have seen this tip a year ago
For sure. There's nothing worse than attaching a complex connector and then discovering you forgot to slide on the heat shrink! :-)
When you screw it up, liquid electrical tape can save your butt.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 that would be preferable.
Pro tip is to use an ACTUAL soldering iron, not that weird ass thing you got.
Or a soldering station with which you can vary the temperature
I prefer the electric pen style myself with the variable temperature. Not all solder is created equal.
Yes ...get a 25 watt soldering pen..
that's a soldering iron 🤨
Lmao 😂😂😂yeah
Pro Tip: ***contrary to the instructions on this video, the proper way to solder is to completely coat the exposed wire with solder were you can no longer see individual strands, this ensures complete depth and prevents hot spots in the wire joint...remember, to apply enough solder that it complete covers every strand without excess run off***
So did he use too little? Other people in the comments are saying he used wayyy too much.
@@shouldabeengone what he did is perfectly fine, if you it like in the video you will pretty much get a perfect connection every time, what truckers wall of shame said is to presolder the ends of the wire, which is sonething youd do when soldering the wird to a connector or something but certainly not when connecting 2 wires. Just du it like he did in the video, preferably the first method, hope i can help you ✌🏻
@@shouldabeengone even though he probable got a full connection, he used to little...people forget that the melting point of solder is lower than the burn point of the insulation.
Electrical wiring can get hot enough to melt solder., when doing electrical wires you want the most amount of solder possible to dissipate the heat...because of this, he used to little...dont get me wrong, I'm not bashing him...his technique is good, just needed to add a bit more solder
Agreed. He didnt use enough solder in the first joint. You should not be able to see bare copper the way you can at the bottom of his 1st connection. To boot, the silicone paste should be on the insulation as well as the bare wire before installing the heat shrink tubing. This will ensure 100% waterproof behind the heat srink as well as the joint.
Spot on you tin the wire before soldering it 👍👍
Touching the solder to the iron, just a little bit to melt a small blob on the wire/iron junction while warming the wire will help it heat much faster as the liquid metal provides a better thermal conduction than two solid round metal things rubbing.
I keep trying that the coil solder would drop off about a half inch of it at a time
Yeah, the never touch the solder to the iron rule is too overly cautious, just don't do a cold solder.
Yes yes
If you are soldering delicate electronics with that "chip-hammer" you are risking melting the jackets, or something along the cable or circuit board. A dab of solder on a pencil tip is more than enough if you can't control the heat when it's too much!
Came here to say exactly this.
I work in electronics manufacturing and I don't 100% agree. Especially the grease on the wires is not needed. There are many ways to connect wires. All the industrially accepted wire connection methods are in the IPC standards. There are many shrink tubes with hot melt inside, that is corrosion resistant without silicon grease.
Also don't use this soldering pistol for electronics soldering.
those self solder heat shrink tubes are my new favorite thing for quick jobs in the workshop or a car/trailer. also perfect for keeping in the ute when all you need is a heat source to do the whole job.
Personally i dont see a problem with using dielectric grease with heat shrink, may not need it but it definitely doesnt hurt.
@@DigitalIP That's what I've done, and I agree .
Thank you. And he didn't mention matching the flux to the solder being used. If the solder has a flux core, the flux used MUST match the type used in the core. Same goes for solder wick. Best way to go is unfluxed so that you can just use what you have. And yeah, those gun irons suck for any kind of precision as well as heat control. PVC 300V has the tendency to melt, shrink back, and burn with too much heat applied. It really is best to put a bit of solder on the iron and use the flux in the core to start the flow rather than getting 8" of the wire up to 250 degrees and melting everything.
I use IPC 620 standards at work myself and found this video to be mostly inaccurate.
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Remind the person that’s since the wires do not normally have a running end it’s best to slid the shrink tubing on before soldering.
Today I learned everyone in the comments section has a PhD in soldering lol
As someone who's had a J-STD-001 Solder Certification, this is a good video! Thumbs up!
As someone who's worked in a radiator Manufacturing facility and worked with solder, Brazing and Different types of torches for 30 years, this video is a Thumbs up 👍🏻
I would not recommend that giant clunky Weller. There are tons of inexpensive and smaller units that are waaaaay easier to hold. Some even have adjustable temps.
Dont buy the Weller gun
I agree. A soldering gun with over 200 watts of power is overkill if you're just soldering together a couple of low voltage wires.
A 30 or 40 watt soldering iron is more reasonable for the application. Weller also makes smaller soldering irons as well as more precise temperature-controlled soldering stations.
That’s what I was thinking too. I haven’t had to use one of those since the 90s. But it does have a trigger to control the heat and a lot of the cheaper lighter ones just stay on and hot as long as they’re plugged in.
Agreed 👍
Don't get me wrong, but this is the less practical solder I've ever seen.
The Weller soldering iron is hilarious.
It's ok to melt the solder on the iron, this isn't copper pipe and a torch.
"Super charging" your solder joint with silicone is not needed. Just clean the flux off and it won't corrode...
This is a bad tutorial.
Totally agreed
My dad is an engineer watching him soldering wires from my childhood he never put iron underneath the wire to heat it up and melting solder on top of the wire
He melt the solder on iron and apply it all over wire basically covers the whole naked wire in solder
Flux for plumbing is different than for electronics. Don't ever use plumbing flux as it will corrode everything.
Don't buy a soldering iron pistol for soldering electronics, they are overpowered. Buy a normal soldering iron.
This is not the right type of tool for this job. I far prefer a chonky weller iron (100w) with a thick fat tip.
The gun type you have does not have a lot of thermal mass and you have more chance of damaging components aroud the iron by "waiting" for the wire to get hot.
But it's not a "cheap" iron 😂 even though he boasts everything can be done for less than $40...
These type of guns have loads of excess power instead. Usually over 200W. They work really well when working thicker wiring when no thermal mass of any iron could keep up.
This was video made sodering wires way more complicated than it needs to be.
This video is for making waterproof connections.
You need these for places that regularly come in contact with water. Like in industrial water purifiers, rooftop solar panels or even garden wiring that will be buried under earth.
Advertising products a lot
Congratulations you made two mistakes in your comment while trying to be a smart ass
First, the rosin will melt and wick into the wire mesh once heat is applied so there is no need to waste time working it in. Second, isopropyl alcohol will clean off the flux after the solder is applied. Third, it is important to slide the heat shrink tubing over one of the wires before making the connection; it must be slipped over an open end and frequently the connection joins the last two ends.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Yes, your comment is a better tutorial than this whole video.
@@jonmayer This kinda comment is exactly why I keep coming back to the interwebs.
It’s almost like an abusive relationship, where these golden moments of sarcasm, satire, and irony are what make enduring all the other insanity and bovine scatology worthwhile.
A long winded way of saying “keep smackin’ her,” metaphorically speaking;)
"and frequently the connection joins the last two ends."
I don't understand this last sentence, what does it mean? 🤔
@@bodeine454 Do you understand what "end" means?
Thank you for sharing I learned a few things that I didn't know before thank you very much
Синяя изолента заменит все эти понты
Такими кривыми руками ему даже собственный хрен держать доверить нельзя, а он ещё научить людей пытается. Ютуб куда ты катишься...
Put a little bit of solder on the tip of the solder gun first, it will transfer the heat to the wire faster and more efficiently.
Dielectric grease is a waste of time, causes the shrink tube to slide off over time and prevent the glue from sealing, heating the wire from below puts too much heat in the wire and damages the insulation, its fine on small wires but larger ones will cause issues. Melt the solder over the wire with the iron and heat from below when theres more surface contact area to transfer heat in to the area instead of 6" down the conductor melting the insulation. Heating the entire wire also causes the solder to flow further down the wire causing the entire area to be come stiff, its also a giant waste of time. Ive soldered thousands of joints that lasted my entire career.
Thank you for pointing out the grease causing the tubing to slide off. Just get the tubing with the adhesive and problem solved no need for fancy grease
Thanks will try that today. Doing a throttle bidy 8plug replacement.
Pro-Tip: use these heat shrink tubes with glue (they are a little bit shinier than the normal ones on the inside). They won't slide of and they're helping by making the Wire stiffer, so that the wire won't Break at the end of the solder Connection...
Or can work fine if a second longer heat shrink with adhesive is used over it.
@@leaftye I often use different Layers of heat shrink tubes. In my cables are often two or more wires. So I am insulating the wires one by one and after that I will push one ore two Heat shrink tubes over THWe whole cable, so that the repaired Part is fully covered within these upper heat shrink tubes.
Great video. Lots of pro tips for sure.
Why is it that Nth Americans can't pronounce 'solder' properly?
Because it's a British spelling of a French word. Even thought there's an English version too! Everything is wrong to someone else! I mean, RP, based on society women with speech impediments, somehow took hold after the colonists declared independence and now many brits don't pronounce final rhotic "r"!
@@xochj Sooo... how does one pronounce your surname?
@@the510wagon Ha! Anglicized: SO-ch-mill
Personal preference but I have moved away from silicone grease and sponge method of tip cleaning. Hot glue lined heatshrink all the way and those 'coiled brass' scrubbers are amazing time savers. Love the video.
Almost anyone can do this when the you have such easy access to the wires. In most cases it’s not easy to access the wires you need to work on.
Was gonna post the same thing, but all these tutorial vids are made the same way we would probably make them, for instruction, then it is up to the repairer to apply these principles the best way possible, lying on your back, in the mud, under the truck, in the winter, 30 mph wind, or cramped up, in your bobcat, or under the hood of the car, 100 degrees out ,max humidity, mosquitos and ants all over you.
bluethooth on ear heqdphones😂😂😂😂😂
and there are also lots of devices, where they isolate the wire with paint, or the core is made out of plastic 🤧very bruh
sorry, fiber glass*
@@treeguyable i wouldnt advise solder if the cable is going to flex or vibrates a lot, there are better and quicker methods for that (clamping them together with a connection piece idk if there is an english term)
Messed up. The isolation is overheated and melted. If that was multiple phase hi-voltage wire that would cause the fire hazard.
Mistake was about melting the tin through the wire directly. Took too much time.
If you drop the melted tin on the cold wire covered the flux, it would be saturate exactly the same way.
Fine for ultra low voltage, high voltage insulation also doesn't bubble and warp anywhere near as easily
You wouldn't want to solder a joint on a high voltage cable, I imagine that's against the regs, you would need to use a clamp joint, and faulty cables should be replaced, not repaired if at all possible. Remembering high voltage is 35 to 230 Kv.
Right @ d dpo1r
Yeah should note I've never soldered anything over 24v. My note of the strength of high voltage insulation comes from heat shrink covering crimped lugs.
@@Cola.Cube. for navy regs and all shipwork they specify its fineable offense, and I know thats consistent in all ports in the US where the navy is.
Alternate title: Fighting with an Archaic Soldering Iron for 10 Minutes
I didn't even think they were still made. I don't see any point to them.
@@joewoodchuck3824 they heat up way way faster than pen-style irons at the same price
Edit: and they provide full electical isolation from mains, cheap soldering irons can fuck that up and screw you and your electronics with 120/240v
@@alanowa123 you can buy a usb-c powered pinecil or miniware TS100 for around 30 usd that heats up to 300C in less than 15 seconds
I always get a giggle when Americans say solder and aluminium 😆
How do you say solder?
Probably pronounce it SOLD Errr
Aloominum. Lol
In America it’s called aluminum not aluminium, in fact when I spell it that way it shows up with a squiggly red line to show that I spelled it wrong.
the original was to be set upon word was to be aluminum, apparently editors or some science thing decided to stick another i just because it goes with -ium.
aluminum sounds way better and more consistent than Al U MiN EE uM. especially al/lumium which were the first thought of words when the metal was found before settling on aluminum and having it pointlessly changed to aluminium.
solder isnt even with an l in older forms such as sou-der or -dure.
unless you go all the way back to solid-are and solid-us.
the british-english who often dwell on things to compensate for their lack of intelligence unlike those of them who probably paved the way for them, and are more productive, dont seem to get anywhere except to pointless problems.
Explains the best way to solder, proceeds to show us the WOSRT soldering I have ever seen.
God told me that this soldering technique is fine minus the use of flux... you don't need flux.
@@rockefelleragent1357Flux is phenomenal. But these channels are all jazzed about preventing corrosion and shrink tubes and silicon grease BUT THEY NEVER CLEAN THE EXCESS FLUX OFF
@@rockefelleragent1357 I've only seen flux used when you're melting a connection, such as to remove a chip from a circuit board.
I suggest washing off extra flux with isopropyl or flux off. The lingering flux is a corrosive and will crew away at the wire over time. It's not as effective when cold vs when it's hot. However it's going to react with the wire just like it does when it's hot. Washing it off helps with the longevity of the solder joint.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Капиталисты дают конечно... Зачем все это, если есть изолента?)) И никогда не видел, чтобы медь ржавела...
This is one of my favorite videos on this subject. Great process to learn and perfect. Good strong and sound instructions. Thank You!
First Rule: DO NOT WEAR VIOLET GLOVES ! They must be green with red polka dots.
Second Rule: Do not use silicone grease or transparent shrink tubing, use shrink tubing with hot melt glue inside.
if you can't be helpful, be quiet.
Great video. I prefer marine heat shrink. It has a waterproof material inside that melts when you heat it causing a waterproof seal without applying anything else. It’s just one less step.
Why use flux paste when using rosin core solder? I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the only time I find you need flux is when using acid core solder and joining copper pipes.
there isn't enough to fully 'wet' the copper
There is no need. The only reason would be if you're trying to get the solder to penetrate further into the joint.
Extra flux can be a life safer imo. It makes some jobs much easier, although that's on pcbs in my experience.
I like to add a bit of no-clean liquid flux. Solder wets out better. But it is not necessary.
Extra flux helps the solder flow and wet the wires. It especially helps when using lead-free solder.
Soldering videos are my cryptonite!
Remove flux residue, and clean the connection, with alcohol after soldering.
Saludos, este es un trabajo profesional y seguro, así se debe de trabajar y con herramienta y matereales de calidad...
My rule of thumb is a mechanical bond first (bend each wire into the other and twist), followed by the solder. Working around vehicles and wiring them up, they are subject to vibrations and solder loves to crack with vibrations if the wires arent mechanically bonded first. Followed up with Marine Grade heatshrink, the internal glue further reinforces that mechanical bond and creates a weatherproof seal.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
You should be using cold welds instead of solder due to this. It sounds counter-intuitive, but crimps are the way to go. Cold weld joints are much more durable, even if that sounds weird
@@JustAPersonalUseBarb As long as you don't mind more resistance
tf is “marine grade heat shrink”
@@dwaynemcallister7231Absolutely, factually, incorrect. I'm sure you're happy with the hairline fractures that develope in a vibrating environment in the soldered connection as well as the fact that you're going against the grain of the marine and aviation industries.
Thanks I learned a lot from this video👍🏾
Here’s a pro tip when you don’t have all this! 1. Twist both fronts together, 2. Use electrical tape to make sure you’re safe! 3. You’re done
A soldering iron is dirt cheap...
@@gursisingh1940 wanna know what’s still cheaper? Electrical tape.
Pro tip: If you are doing wiring repairs in an automotive application keep it to a minimum and only do so on circuits that are securely held in a loom with minimal vibration or flexing. Soldering makes the wire brittle, which is why very few wire connections are soldered by manufacturers. Factory style terminal crimps, or Quality weather proof connectors are the best option.
Except in the wire bundle from the cab to the door. Those breaks are a nightmare and even the best crimp will fail. Best to add a good piece of wire to the broken area and solder and shrink with dual wall rather than anything else. Give it a dogbone outside the crush area, fold and tie with waxed thread.
facepalm
If you want to solder like a pro, upgrade that outdated soldering iron for a hakko. Remember to turn the wire around after you soldered -- chances are it didn't flow to the back side. Put the shrink wrap on first. And use marine grade shrink tube because it has a glue in it. This video is all about how not to be a 'Pro'.
so ahh you and your two subscribers huh
@@miguelcastaneda7236 that doesn't mean anything.. Not everyone needs subscribers attention! But I get it.. He could have said it in a different way! Also every one can develop their own techniques. I don't use the dielectric grease for soldering.. Only for plug connections! If soldering for wet conditions I use marine heatshrink, it's not 100% all the time or forever, but it's pretty good!
@@miguelcastaneda7236 just because he doesn’t have a following on RUclips doesn’t make him wrong. He’s spot on.
exactly
Quick, informative, concise. Very cool video, definitely helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Wires can be soldered, only for static positioning, otherwise in a machinery enviroment, vibrations will break the wire next to the soldered area 😉
The battle field says just get the damn thing working and back into the fight.
@@polla2256 the battlefield also provides you with electric energy to weld right? on the battlefield you just use solderseal wireconnectors, clamp it and heat with lighter or just tape it together till in a safe area
I dont own a soldering kit nor do I have need to do. It but atleast I know i can now and it's not too difficult
Scientists and engineers at JPL/NASA do NOT suggest using the twist bindings you show. I was taught how to solder by one of their scientists. Most likely, the type of twist is relative to the job. You should probably state that.
Greetings, this is a professional and safe job, this is how you must work and with quality tools and materials ...
i need to solder allot of wires. im trying to build an army! oh wait i need a soldier video.
First time I saw this video and said wow. Great idea. Thank u for the video.
Love your videos, but I think this one should be revisited. NASA uses the Lineman's Splice for a reason - it's better. Also called the Western Union Splice.
Skip the grease and use waterproof adhesive heat shrink. Normal heat shrink has no adhesive and the only keeping it slid over the joint is friction and shape. With the waterproof heat shrink the adhesive on the inside glues it to the insulator, solder joint, everything.
Lastly, I'd use a soldering iron vs gun for this.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Just getting back into electrical work, nice video.
Just go to ur local Walmart and get a $5 iron, twist those wires together and throw some solder on there. That’s my way😂😂😂
Thanks for showing the linesman's splice. I never knew what it was called.
Me when I want to make a water tight connection I use small pieces of hot glue that I put in the heat shrink tube and when I apply heat it melt the glue and seals everything. The plus with the hot glue is that the solder now has a strain relief and it won't break as easy just beside the solder in an application where the wire would band alot.
Well done, Imo putting heat shrink is before soldering cuz you might not be able to put in after.... and vacuum will be great.
That's an *excellent* presentation; everything was included: tools, techniques, and operational concerns. Well done and thank you!
Too bad the information in the video is incorrect.
@@jonmayer Care to share how/why the information is incorrect?
@@jonmayer Thanks for the troll sighting!
Great video thank you Sir...God Bless
Pro tip, after touching the sodding iron to the wire for a second or two, add a little solder right where the iron is touching the wire to make it conduct heat much faster to avoid melting the insulation.
Love this channel. I’m glad to see you’re getting the number of subscribers you deserve.
Next pro tip: buy heat shrink with glue inside, then you don't need silicone grease ;)
Sounds a tool with bad quality
Why?
@@bartoszhuptysiowski1855 it's the same idea of a shampoo two in one, they try to simplify things in a single object but end up making something half good in two things.
@@williamgodoi9971 Yeah, and that's why energetic companies using this to repair high voltage cables. I'm using it in Offroad vehicles with no complaints. Try first to say something about quality.
Excellent DIY video
No pro tips here. I wouldn't follow these instructions, and I've been doing this stuff for 60 years.
This video should be named how to waste solder on excessively large joints.
Whats happened to just tinning each wire and splice together. So much neater, easier, faster, less waste.
These tips are horrendous.
@@craigjohnstone87 Your method may be ok for the lightest duty stuff with thin wire, but for anything more than that a western union splice is best. I agree there is excessive solder though. A fraction of this would suffice.
Unfortunately video has 6M views and mostly thumbs up, people will believe this is how you do it and ignore any professionals.
Brother new subscriber❤❤🇮🇳🇮🇳
Nice presentation. It is good to note that the lineman's splice is used in situations where the wire may be under strain. It is so called because it was traditionally used in the telephone industry to patch phone line. If done properly, the splice is stronger than the wire.
This would never pass QA in an aerospace application.
I don't remember seeing that in the IPC standard. Splitting wires is usually a no no. Be better to line the trimmed ends side by side and solder.
Anyone else here to watch the video again before you do it yourself 😂
Ideally you would just want to tin each end and then solder the two tinned ends together. IPC recommends never twisting a copper wire because copper becomes more brittle the more you bend it and this will be amplified in environments with temperature extremes. Contorting wires like this video does would make it more likely that solder does not make full coverage on each individual strand. Also dialectic grease is a bit unnecessary. I think a good appropriately sized shrink tubing with adhesive should seal it and insulate well. If you are really worried, just layer the tubing
When you say "solder the two tinned ends together", do you mean just placing the two ends side by side so they overlap, then just touching them with the iron so the existing tin joins the ends? Or use fresh tin?
@@kingcrumpet the first thing you said. Tinning just refers to flowing solder on the wire. I will say that doing this by hand isn't always simple, but something I did when I did this in a production line was make wooden races for different gauge wires and then I wouldn't need 3 arms to hold the 2 wires while soldering.
@@tunina6421 Understood, thank you for replying so quickly. I need to solder in a new section of ignition coil wiring tomorrow to get my friend's car running again. I think rats chewed through it! Nothing like working on a production line to make you good at something!
You should put some lead on the solder tip before soldering to make solder faster and easier. That way the heat will transfer much faster.
Woah, okay Weller makes a good iron on the top end but for a cheaper iron the ts-100 is hands down the best
The wire will break before a good solder joint breaks. No need for fancy twisting/joining of the wires before soldering unless it just makes it easier to hold the wire while soldering. I tin both of the exposed wires, then solder them together side by side. Keeps a low profile for heat shrink and is easier for me.
If you need a shitty connection that just works, yeah. If you need a high quality, low resistance connection its better to twist them
@@Zyczu55 wrong. it makes no difference in resistance.
@@dustin9258 Ofcourse it does. Just look up metal conductivity table. For your usage it doesnt matter, but for accurate measuring devices it does make a slight difference. And slight is sometimes important
@@Zyczu55 metal conductivity has nothing to do with soldering wires together. It’s all about the surface area of the connection and solder coverage.
@@dustin9258 Solder is about 10x worse conductor than copper, if you get better contact area between copper wires, the resistance will be lower, thus the voltage drop will be lower too. Its a small difference but a difference is a difference.
First😁
Things to watch out for. Modern wires can be copper coated on steel. Saves on copper and makes cable cheaper. Solder for electrical, electronic use is mainly lead free. Not accepted in military equipment. Silicon sealant building grade has acetic acid in. Again should not be used. Cheers from old George Forgot to mention soldering guns that have large current at tip create a magnetic field that can damage some electronic components and can attract steel particles into solder. Such as metal dust from filing metal etc.
"Waterproof" ... prove that Darwin is right if you trust this!
You can also buy marine grade heat shrink that already has that sealant built into it.
I've had bad experiences with Weller soldering guns. Bought a ts 100 recently and it works much better
My Weller iron at work sucked so bad, I switched to a hakko and it was 100% easier than the Weller.
The TS-100 and TS-80 are absolute beasts
You are working with thick wires. You can use ducktape and a butane torch for that. The art or soldering is you soldering very small stuff.
Pro tip: Turn power OFF before working on wires connected to the supply.
Hey friend or whoever has soldered, the solder joint should be uniform and shiny without cracks or edges or tin, also I do not recommend using the weller to tin cables, I recommend using a pencil soldering iron for rough use for the joints and clean the excess of tin with isopropyl alcohol, another tip is to sand the wires a little to ensure the union of the wires, I have been soldering for 10 years and I was surprised to see this typical rookie mistake, greetings ;)
The puddle on the iron transfers heat faster.
Feed a puddle before holding against the wire, the puddle actually transfers the heat to the project, but if you're using this style of soldering gun, it's irrelevant because the surface area of the tip.
Glad I came to the comments because I was thinking the whole time, “wait… what is he saying? No… wait that’s not right… wtf is THAT thing??”
Awesome techniques. The only improvement would be a small fume extractor. Well worth the few dollars to save your lungs.
Definitely! or work outside if possible.
if you use grape or cherry flux you don't have to worry about it
@@russellzauner lol
when I was arc welding in trade college, I actually liked the fumes
Decent fume extractors are expensive as hell if not d.i.y. unfortunately.
Electrician here, keep note these create what we call hot zones. All those wires clumped together cause the amperage to change, basically it's like pushing water through a smaller tube after being in a bigger one. Except instead of water it's electricity and it creates heat. Only use this with smaller voltages like in computers.
if you get the marine heat shrink, it has the goop inside it already.
The purpose of flux is to break surface tension of liquid solder, but it really helps move the heat too, so I gob it on then alcohol it off afterward.
Flux chemically cleans the wire
Safety tip: notice how he has gloves on any time he applies the flux paste. I highly recommend wearing gloves and if you do a lot of this type of work, I highly recommend wearing a respirator and definitely DO NOT breathe in the fumes... it will cause damage to your lungs and throat.
Great video.
Your video is excellent. Just a couple of points. I prefer to keep the soldering gun above the work to avoid excess solder and flux running down the tip. Also, in electronics, especially fine connection work, I disagree with heat up the work first. The reason for this is you can damage components and melt insulation of wire. Instead what I've learned and practiced for decades is to get make sure the tip of the soldering tool is hot, and to apply the solder to the place where the tip meets the work, usually at the same time the tip touches the work. Because tips tend to be round and the work as in the case of wire is round, the actual contact area between the two is small and so heat transfer is slow. By applying the solder to the place where both contact, you use the solder itself to instantly expand the contact area instantly and heat transfer rate significantly. This seems to create much better results. If you try it you will see what I mean.
FYI - the notion of heat the work first is still around but it's origins I believe are from things like plumbing and soldering tin, etc. Not the best for electrical from what I've experienced.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Pro tip: you should solder every wire separately for better conductivity
Spend a little more money on adhesive lined heat shrink and you won't need that 3m silicone paste. It will make a stronger connection by gluing both wires insulation together so the connection doesn't have to rely on only the solder.
Don't clean the iron before you put it away, leave it covered in solder to protect the tip. Dab a small amount of solder to the tip before you start, it will help transfer the heat. Clean the flux of before you put the silicon on. And most importantly, if you ever plan on removing this connection, then don't do anything you see here. Just tin each wire, then lay them side by side, and heat the solder to join them.
Кто-нибудь, расскажите им о синей изоленте!
Так он даже паять нормально не умеет...
Ive got a cheap soldering iron and it works fine. Been using for years
The 2nd one is how i first started soldering, also started by using solder against soldering iron. Then my dad learnt the proper way then showed me
There are better brands to solder with. Different tips, solder and fluxes. Also, the heating iron. They have awesome types to choose, better than that solder gun. Its ancient. Look at solder stations. Hakko brand is sweet! Interchangeable iron tips too!!
Grate video bud. Can you tell me when you doing a review of the finished leoch. Thanks.
Unfortunately the one I received had shipping damage internally so I wasn't able to use it. I am working with them on a replacement.
@@SilverCymbal ok bud thanks.
@@SilverCymbal Did you get the one with the separate mppt controller that you plug in as well, you no, the one that hobotech got. If so, I have my own victron mppt controller but I need some information first like float charge equalization voltage & so on. If you could get that information from your external mppt controller they give you then I can use my own mppt controller instead of the junk they give you with it. If you don't mind that is. Lol
Great video!
Some basic tips, but the chosen soldering iron definitely looks like it can get too hot for smaller wires. Always keep that in mind.
Also, if you have enough wire to really solder properly, always go for the western union splice, AKA the one used by NASA standards. ;)
I thought the western union splice was more of a solid core thing?
@@tylercampbell3134 only partially, if you don't use solder. It has does a perfect connection with these strandedwires as well using solder. Only downside is the large wire area that becomes "stiff", but I never actually found that to be a problem, as I don't even try to attempt the western union splice if the wire isn't long enough due to lack of fine motor skill :(
Aka the lineman splice
GoodStuff,GreatTips😀👍🏿
Adhesive lined shrink tubing is far superior to applying silicone grease and using regular heat shrink. It's kinda expensive but it's worth buying the good stuff.
Eu tenho uma dessa, e é muito boa!!