Touching the solder to the iron, just a little bit to melt a small blob on the wire/iron junction while warming the wire will help it heat much faster as the liquid metal provides a better thermal conduction than two solid round metal things rubbing.
If you are soldering delicate electronics with that "chip-hammer" you are risking melting the jackets, or something along the cable or circuit board. A dab of solder on a pencil tip is more than enough if you can't control the heat when it's too much!
First, the rosin will melt and wick into the wire mesh once heat is applied so there is no need to waste time working it in. Second, isopropyl alcohol will clean off the flux after the solder is applied. Third, it is important to slide the heat shrink tubing over one of the wires before making the connection; it must be slipped over an open end and frequently the connection joins the last two ends.
@@jonmayer This kinda comment is exactly why I keep coming back to the interwebs. It’s almost like an abusive relationship, where these golden moments of sarcasm, satire, and irony are what make enduring all the other insanity and bovine scatology worthwhile. A long winded way of saying “keep smackin’ her,” metaphorically speaking;)
As someone who's worked in a radiator Manufacturing facility and worked with solder, Brazing and Different types of torches for 30 years, this video is a Thumbs up 👍🏻
@@rockefelleragent1357Flux is phenomenal. But these channels are all jazzed about preventing corrosion and shrink tubes and silicon grease BUT THEY NEVER CLEAN THE EXCESS FLUX OFF
My rule of thumb is a mechanical bond first (bend each wire into the other and twist), followed by the solder. Working around vehicles and wiring them up, they are subject to vibrations and solder loves to crack with vibrations if the wires arent mechanically bonded first. Followed up with Marine Grade heatshrink, the internal glue further reinforces that mechanical bond and creates a weatherproof seal.
You should be using cold welds instead of solder due to this. It sounds counter-intuitive, but crimps are the way to go. Cold weld joints are much more durable, even if that sounds weird
@@dwaynemcallister7231Absolutely, factually, incorrect. I'm sure you're happy with the hairline fractures that develope in a vibrating environment in the soldered connection as well as the fact that you're going against the grain of the marine and aviation industries.
Pro Tip: ***contrary to the instructions on this video, the proper way to solder is to completely coat the exposed wire with solder were you can no longer see individual strands, this ensures complete depth and prevents hot spots in the wire joint...remember, to apply enough solder that it complete covers every strand without excess run off***
@@shouldabeengone what he did is perfectly fine, if you it like in the video you will pretty much get a perfect connection every time, what truckers wall of shame said is to presolder the ends of the wire, which is sonething youd do when soldering the wird to a connector or something but certainly not when connecting 2 wires. Just du it like he did in the video, preferably the first method, hope i can help you ✌🏻
@@shouldabeengone even though he probable got a full connection, he used to little...people forget that the melting point of solder is lower than the burn point of the insulation. Electrical wiring can get hot enough to melt solder., when doing electrical wires you want the most amount of solder possible to dissipate the heat...because of this, he used to little...dont get me wrong, I'm not bashing him...his technique is good, just needed to add a bit more solder
Agreed. He didnt use enough solder in the first joint. You should not be able to see bare copper the way you can at the bottom of his 1st connection. To boot, the silicone paste should be on the insulation as well as the bare wire before installing the heat shrink tubing. This will ensure 100% waterproof behind the heat srink as well as the joint.
Electrician here, keep note these create what we call hot zones. All those wires clumped together cause the amperage to change, basically it's like pushing water through a smaller tube after being in a bigger one. Except instead of water it's electricity and it creates heat. Only use this with smaller voltages like in computers.
I work in electronics manufacturing and I don't 100% agree. Especially the grease on the wires is not needed. There are many ways to connect wires. All the industrially accepted wire connection methods are in the IPC standards. There are many shrink tubes with hot melt inside, that is corrosion resistant without silicon grease. Also don't use this soldering pistol for electronics soldering.
those self solder heat shrink tubes are my new favorite thing for quick jobs in the workshop or a car/trailer. also perfect for keeping in the ute when all you need is a heat source to do the whole job.
Thank you. And he didn't mention matching the flux to the solder being used. If the solder has a flux core, the flux used MUST match the type used in the core. Same goes for solder wick. Best way to go is unfluxed so that you can just use what you have. And yeah, those gun irons suck for any kind of precision as well as heat control. PVC 300V has the tendency to melt, shrink back, and burn with too much heat applied. It really is best to put a bit of solder on the iron and use the flux in the core to start the flow rather than getting 8" of the wire up to 250 degrees and melting everything.
Ive got a cheap soldering iron and it works fine. Been using for years The 2nd one is how i first started soldering, also started by using solder against soldering iron. Then my dad learnt the proper way then showed me
Nice presentation. It is good to note that the lineman's splice is used in situations where the wire may be under strain. It is so called because it was traditionally used in the telephone industry to patch phone line. If done properly, the splice is stronger than the wire.
Best short tutorial on soldering I've seen. ALL tutorials should be as clear and direct as this, regardless of the subject. Others should take a lesson from you!
Amazing job. Cleaning with acetone before and after helps as well. Also, if you add a little bit of solder to the tip before applying it to the wire, it forms a heat bridge and heats up the local area quicker and the application of solder to the conductor will be really quick. I love the tips regarding rosin flux and silicone grease. Nice work!
I am glad to see this. I did this for 17 years making custom looms for trucks. I would have my tape ready so I could wrap it while it was hot. It helped the tape to seal. I used the fist method.
This video is for making waterproof connections. You need these for places that regularly come in contact with water. Like in industrial water purifiers, rooftop solar panels or even garden wiring that will be buried under earth.
_Most of the people do these kinds of work just for the heck of it & that's quite temporary_ *But this work looks neat, smooth & durable* _I wish electricians/technians in my area work with such detailing & precision_ ⚡️
Sir you absolutely save me so much aggravation. I was really never good at soldering until using your tips and tricks. You have got the best DIY and review channel on RUclips!!! Thank you so very much for all your awesome vids. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK
Pro tip, after touching the sodding iron to the wire for a second or two, add a little solder right where the iron is touching the wire to make it conduct heat much faster to avoid melting the insulation.
Messed up. The isolation is overheated and melted. If that was multiple phase hi-voltage wire that would cause the fire hazard. Mistake was about melting the tin through the wire directly. Took too much time. If you drop the melted tin on the cold wire covered the flux, it would be saturate exactly the same way.
You wouldn't want to solder a joint on a high voltage cable, I imagine that's against the regs, you would need to use a clamp joint, and faulty cables should be replaced, not repaired if at all possible. Remembering high voltage is 35 to 230 Kv.
Yeah should note I've never soldered anything over 24v. My note of the strength of high voltage insulation comes from heat shrink covering crimped lugs.
thank you for the up. when i learned this back in college they skipped quite some steps but everything still holds. can recommend the dremel rod that uses lighter gas. will spend on the electric big boy later
Ideally you would just want to tin each end and then solder the two tinned ends together. IPC recommends never twisting a copper wire because copper becomes more brittle the more you bend it and this will be amplified in environments with temperature extremes. Contorting wires like this video does would make it more likely that solder does not make full coverage on each individual strand. Also dialectic grease is a bit unnecessary. I think a good appropriately sized shrink tubing with adhesive should seal it and insulate well. If you are really worried, just layer the tubing
When you say "solder the two tinned ends together", do you mean just placing the two ends side by side so they overlap, then just touching them with the iron so the existing tin joins the ends? Or use fresh tin?
@@kingcrumpet the first thing you said. Tinning just refers to flowing solder on the wire. I will say that doing this by hand isn't always simple, but something I did when I did this in a production line was make wooden races for different gauge wires and then I wouldn't need 3 arms to hold the 2 wires while soldering.
@@tunina6421 Understood, thank you for replying so quickly. I need to solder in a new section of ignition coil wiring tomorrow to get my friend's car running again. I think rats chewed through it! Nothing like working on a production line to make you good at something!
Rosin core solder is also acceptable without the additional flux treatment beforehand. The 3m silicone and heat shrink is a must for any wet low voltage locations. Great video.
@@polla2256 the battlefield also provides you with electric energy to weld right? on the battlefield you just use solderseal wireconnectors, clamp it and heat with lighter or just tape it together till in a safe area
Great video now to apply this to a real world repair on a vehicle . Video is great for demonstration on how to do it , I would love to see your methods when you have a word to repair in a place like under the dash or anywhere on a vehicle .
Was gonna post the same thing, but all these tutorial vids are made the same way we would probably make them, for instruction, then it is up to the repairer to apply these principles the best way possible, lying on your back, in the mud, under the truck, in the winter, 30 mph wind, or cramped up, in your bobcat, or under the hood of the car, 100 degrees out ,max humidity, mosquitos and ants all over you.
@@treeguyable i wouldnt advise solder if the cable is going to flex or vibrates a lot, there are better and quicker methods for that (clamping them together with a connection piece idk if there is an english term)
Bro, this is Simon from Amritsar, India. You helped me a lot,today only I was installing the wires for my ac and this time I was make all wires under wall. You saved my money
The puddle on the iron transfers heat faster. Feed a puddle before holding against the wire, the puddle actually transfers the heat to the project, but if you're using this style of soldering gun, it's irrelevant because the surface area of the tip.
I would not recommend that giant clunky Weller. There are tons of inexpensive and smaller units that are waaaaay easier to hold. Some even have adjustable temps. Dont buy the Weller gun
I agree. A soldering gun with over 200 watts of power is overkill if you're just soldering together a couple of low voltage wires. A 30 or 40 watt soldering iron is more reasonable for the application. Weller also makes smaller soldering irons as well as more precise temperature-controlled soldering stations.
That’s what I was thinking too. I haven’t had to use one of those since the 90s. But it does have a trigger to control the heat and a lot of the cheaper lighter ones just stay on and hot as long as they’re plugged in.
Me when I want to make a water tight connection I use small pieces of hot glue that I put in the heat shrink tube and when I apply heat it melt the glue and seals everything. The plus with the hot glue is that the solder now has a strain relief and it won't break as easy just beside the solder in an application where the wire would band alot.
Dielectric grease is a waste of time, causes the shrink tube to slide off over time and prevent the glue from sealing, heating the wire from below puts too much heat in the wire and damages the insulation, its fine on small wires but larger ones will cause issues. Melt the solder over the wire with the iron and heat from below when theres more surface contact area to transfer heat in to the area instead of 6" down the conductor melting the insulation. Heating the entire wire also causes the solder to flow further down the wire causing the entire area to be come stiff, its also a giant waste of time. Ive soldered thousands of joints that lasted my entire career.
Thank you for pointing out the grease causing the tubing to slide off. Just get the tubing with the adhesive and problem solved no need for fancy grease
Pro-Tip: use these heat shrink tubes with glue (they are a little bit shinier than the normal ones on the inside). They won't slide of and they're helping by making the Wire stiffer, so that the wire won't Break at the end of the solder Connection...
@@leaftye I often use different Layers of heat shrink tubes. In my cables are often two or more wires. So I am insulating the wires one by one and after that I will push one ore two Heat shrink tubes over THWe whole cable, so that the repaired Part is fully covered within these upper heat shrink tubes.
@@joewoodchuck3824 they heat up way way faster than pen-style irons at the same price Edit: and they provide full electical isolation from mains, cheap soldering irons can fuck that up and screw you and your electronics with 120/240v
Your video is excellent. Just a couple of points. I prefer to keep the soldering gun above the work to avoid excess solder and flux running down the tip. Also, in electronics, especially fine connection work, I disagree with heat up the work first. The reason for this is you can damage components and melt insulation of wire. Instead what I've learned and practiced for decades is to get make sure the tip of the soldering tool is hot, and to apply the solder to the place where the tip meets the work, usually at the same time the tip touches the work. Because tips tend to be round and the work as in the case of wire is round, the actual contact area between the two is small and so heat transfer is slow. By applying the solder to the place where both contact, you use the solder itself to instantly expand the contact area instantly and heat transfer rate significantly. This seems to create much better results. If you try it you will see what I mean. FYI - the notion of heat the work first is still around but it's origins I believe are from things like plumbing and soldering tin, etc. Not the best for electrical from what I've experienced.
Love your videos, but I think this one should be revisited. NASA uses the Lineman's Splice for a reason - it's better. Also called the Western Union Splice. Skip the grease and use waterproof adhesive heat shrink. Normal heat shrink has no adhesive and the only keeping it slid over the joint is friction and shape. With the waterproof heat shrink the adhesive on the inside glues it to the insulator, solder joint, everything. Lastly, I'd use a soldering iron vs gun for this.
Another soldering sponge tip is to get a old film canisters you use to drop your film off in stores to develop and fold your sponge into it. Most sponges that come with your irons don't need to be cut and you can just keep the sponge moist when you put the cap back on. The film canisters can also store brass type solder cleaners.
if you get the marine heat shrink, it has the goop inside it already. The purpose of flux is to break surface tension of liquid solder, but it really helps move the heat too, so I gob it on then alcohol it off afterward.
Went through 50 solder videos 2 months ago when trying to patch two light strips together - none of them covered everything as succinctly as this video.
As a former motorcycle mechanic whose workshop specialised in electrical issues I like this video! The worst horrors were usually electrical related, and had any actual care been taken by the owner, they would never have become problematic! I really enjoyed seeing your excellent video and your connection looked superb.
I've had that Weller soldering iron for over 40 years & it still works amazing and I've done some serious soldering with it. I use to tub out my models with it. Pull the trigger and cut through the plastic. I cleaned the same tip off when I got older and it's still mint...!
Don't clean the iron before you put it away, leave it covered in solder to protect the tip. Dab a small amount of solder to the tip before you start, it will help transfer the heat. Clean the flux of before you put the silicon on. And most importantly, if you ever plan on removing this connection, then don't do anything you see here. Just tin each wire, then lay them side by side, and heat the solder to join them.
@@SilverCymbal Did you get the one with the separate mppt controller that you plug in as well, you no, the one that hobotech got. If so, I have my own victron mppt controller but I need some information first like float charge equalization voltage & so on. If you could get that information from your external mppt controller they give you then I can use my own mppt controller instead of the junk they give you with it. If you don't mind that is. Lol
Why use flux paste when using rosin core solder? I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the only time I find you need flux is when using acid core solder and joining copper pipes.
Awesome video, I've soldered hundreds of wires as an automotive technician, never did i think of using dielectric after the solder! Makes sense, considering i use it on connections! Thanks for the tip!! Glad I watched to see how you solder lol
Some basic tips, but the chosen soldering iron definitely looks like it can get too hot for smaller wires. Always keep that in mind. Also, if you have enough wire to really solder properly, always go for the western union splice, AKA the one used by NASA standards. ;)
@@tylercampbell3134 only partially, if you don't use solder. It has does a perfect connection with these strandedwires as well using solder. Only downside is the large wire area that becomes "stiff", but I never actually found that to be a problem, as I don't even try to attempt the western union splice if the wire isn't long enough due to lack of fine motor skill :(
Great video. A lot of "pros" in the comments. I'm ex AF and would say he hits the major points. If you really need to dig in, Google NASA soldering and read up! Great vid
Adhesive lined shrink tubing is far superior to applying silicone grease and using regular heat shrink. It's kinda expensive but it's worth buying the good stuff.
@@bartoszhuptysiowski1855 it's the same idea of a shampoo two in one, they try to simplify things in a single object but end up making something half good in two things.
@@williamgodoi9971 Yeah, and that's why energetic companies using this to repair high voltage cables. I'm using it in Offroad vehicles with no complaints. Try first to say something about quality.
Scientists and engineers at JPL/NASA do NOT suggest using the twist bindings you show. I was taught how to solder by one of their scientists. Most likely, the type of twist is relative to the job. You should probably state that.
the original was to be set upon word was to be aluminum, apparently editors or some science thing decided to stick another i just because it goes with -ium. aluminum sounds way better and more consistent than Al U MiN EE uM. especially al/lumium which were the first thought of words when the metal was found before settling on aluminum and having it pointlessly changed to aluminium. solder isnt even with an l in older forms such as sou-der or -dure. unless you go all the way back to solid-are and solid-us. the british-english who often dwell on things to compensate for their lack of intelligence unlike those of them who probably paved the way for them, and are more productive, dont seem to get anywhere except to pointless problems.
Thanks for watching - PLEASE LIKE & SUBSCRIBE 🔥My favorite tools: www.amazon.com/shop/silvercymbal
You should've had the NASA method ,just to show people what overkill looks like
Finally someone who can show how to solder... Thank you
@@engineer_pirate_hunter Or all of the IPC approved methods. I actually use the NASA method for solid wire or components to stranded wire.
@@engineer_pirate_hunter 0
Тот момент когда паяешь такие провода обычной зажигалкой с турбинкой
Pro tip: Remember to slide the heat shrink on the wire BEFORE soldering the joint!
Very good point!!!!!
lols i wish i have seen this tip a year ago
For sure. There's nothing worse than attaching a complex connector and then discovering you forgot to slide on the heat shrink! :-)
When you screw it up, liquid electrical tape can save your butt.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 that would be preferable.
Touching the solder to the iron, just a little bit to melt a small blob on the wire/iron junction while warming the wire will help it heat much faster as the liquid metal provides a better thermal conduction than two solid round metal things rubbing.
I keep trying that the coil solder would drop off about a half inch of it at a time
Yeah, the never touch the solder to the iron rule is too overly cautious, just don't do a cold solder.
Yes yes
If you are soldering delicate electronics with that "chip-hammer" you are risking melting the jackets, or something along the cable or circuit board. A dab of solder on a pencil tip is more than enough if you can't control the heat when it's too much!
Came here to say exactly this.
First, the rosin will melt and wick into the wire mesh once heat is applied so there is no need to waste time working it in. Second, isopropyl alcohol will clean off the flux after the solder is applied. Third, it is important to slide the heat shrink tubing over one of the wires before making the connection; it must be slipped over an open end and frequently the connection joins the last two ends.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Yes, your comment is a better tutorial than this whole video.
@@jonmayer This kinda comment is exactly why I keep coming back to the interwebs.
It’s almost like an abusive relationship, where these golden moments of sarcasm, satire, and irony are what make enduring all the other insanity and bovine scatology worthwhile.
A long winded way of saying “keep smackin’ her,” metaphorically speaking;)
"and frequently the connection joins the last two ends."
I don't understand this last sentence, what does it mean? 🤔
@@bodeine454 Do you understand what "end" means?
As someone who's worked in a radiator Manufacturing facility and worked with solder, Brazing and Different types of torches for 30 years, this video is a Thumbs up 👍🏻
Remind the person that’s since the wires do not normally have a running end it’s best to slid the shrink tubing on before soldering.
Explains the best way to solder, proceeds to show us the WOSRT soldering I have ever seen.
God told me that this soldering technique is fine minus the use of flux... you don't need flux.
@@rockefelleragent1357Flux is phenomenal. But these channels are all jazzed about preventing corrosion and shrink tubes and silicon grease BUT THEY NEVER CLEAN THE EXCESS FLUX OFF
@@rockefelleragent1357 I've only seen flux used when you're melting a connection, such as to remove a chip from a circuit board.
WOSRT?
My rule of thumb is a mechanical bond first (bend each wire into the other and twist), followed by the solder. Working around vehicles and wiring them up, they are subject to vibrations and solder loves to crack with vibrations if the wires arent mechanically bonded first. Followed up with Marine Grade heatshrink, the internal glue further reinforces that mechanical bond and creates a weatherproof seal.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
You should be using cold welds instead of solder due to this. It sounds counter-intuitive, but crimps are the way to go. Cold weld joints are much more durable, even if that sounds weird
@@JustAPersonalUseBarb As long as you don't mind more resistance
tf is “marine grade heat shrink”
@@dwaynemcallister7231Absolutely, factually, incorrect. I'm sure you're happy with the hairline fractures that develope in a vibrating environment in the soldered connection as well as the fact that you're going against the grain of the marine and aviation industries.
Pro Tip: ***contrary to the instructions on this video, the proper way to solder is to completely coat the exposed wire with solder were you can no longer see individual strands, this ensures complete depth and prevents hot spots in the wire joint...remember, to apply enough solder that it complete covers every strand without excess run off***
So did he use too little? Other people in the comments are saying he used wayyy too much.
@@shouldabeengone what he did is perfectly fine, if you it like in the video you will pretty much get a perfect connection every time, what truckers wall of shame said is to presolder the ends of the wire, which is sonething youd do when soldering the wird to a connector or something but certainly not when connecting 2 wires. Just du it like he did in the video, preferably the first method, hope i can help you ✌🏻
@@shouldabeengone even though he probable got a full connection, he used to little...people forget that the melting point of solder is lower than the burn point of the insulation.
Electrical wiring can get hot enough to melt solder., when doing electrical wires you want the most amount of solder possible to dissipate the heat...because of this, he used to little...dont get me wrong, I'm not bashing him...his technique is good, just needed to add a bit more solder
Agreed. He didnt use enough solder in the first joint. You should not be able to see bare copper the way you can at the bottom of his 1st connection. To boot, the silicone paste should be on the insulation as well as the bare wire before installing the heat shrink tubing. This will ensure 100% waterproof behind the heat srink as well as the joint.
Spot on you tin the wire before soldering it 👍👍
Electrician here, keep note these create what we call hot zones. All those wires clumped together cause the amperage to change, basically it's like pushing water through a smaller tube after being in a bigger one. Except instead of water it's electricity and it creates heat. Only use this with smaller voltages like in computers.
As someone who's had a J-STD-001 Solder Certification, this is a good video! Thumbs up!
I work in electronics manufacturing and I don't 100% agree. Especially the grease on the wires is not needed. There are many ways to connect wires. All the industrially accepted wire connection methods are in the IPC standards. There are many shrink tubes with hot melt inside, that is corrosion resistant without silicon grease.
Also don't use this soldering pistol for electronics soldering.
those self solder heat shrink tubes are my new favorite thing for quick jobs in the workshop or a car/trailer. also perfect for keeping in the ute when all you need is a heat source to do the whole job.
Personally i dont see a problem with using dielectric grease with heat shrink, may not need it but it definitely doesnt hurt.
@@DigitalIP That's what I've done, and I agree .
Thank you. And he didn't mention matching the flux to the solder being used. If the solder has a flux core, the flux used MUST match the type used in the core. Same goes for solder wick. Best way to go is unfluxed so that you can just use what you have. And yeah, those gun irons suck for any kind of precision as well as heat control. PVC 300V has the tendency to melt, shrink back, and burn with too much heat applied. It really is best to put a bit of solder on the iron and use the flux in the core to start the flow rather than getting 8" of the wire up to 250 degrees and melting everything.
I use IPC 620 standards at work myself and found this video to be mostly inaccurate.
Ive got a cheap soldering iron and it works fine. Been using for years
The 2nd one is how i first started soldering, also started by using solder against soldering iron. Then my dad learnt the proper way then showed me
Nice presentation. It is good to note that the lineman's splice is used in situations where the wire may be under strain. It is so called because it was traditionally used in the telephone industry to patch phone line. If done properly, the splice is stronger than the wire.
That's an *excellent* presentation; everything was included: tools, techniques, and operational concerns. Well done and thank you!
Too bad the information in the video is incorrect.
@@jonmayer Care to share how/why the information is incorrect?
@@jonmayer Thanks for the troll sighting!
Thank you for sharing this video! Lots of young people nowadays have never used a soldering iron/gun.
Best short tutorial on soldering I've seen.
ALL tutorials should be as clear and direct as this, regardless of the subject. Others should take a lesson from you!
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate it
@@SilverCymbal You got it. When something's good, it's good. And that should be acknowledged!
Best - 👍
Agreed.
🤡
@@johnjordan6736 You're saying I'm a clown? Right back at ya. If that's the case.
Ich habe eine Wellerlötpistole die ist 40 Jahre alt und funktioniert noch immer. Tolle Qualität!!!!
Amazing job. Cleaning with acetone before and after helps as well. Also, if you add a little bit of solder to the tip before applying it to the wire, it forms a heat bridge and heats up the local area quicker and the application of solder to the conductor will be really quick. I love the tips regarding rosin flux and silicone grease. Nice work!
I am glad to see this. I did this for 17 years making custom looms for trucks. I would have my tape ready so I could wrap it while it was hot. It helped the tape to seal. I used the fist method.
Don't know why RUclips recommended me this. I'm never going to solder wire but I still enjoyed the video for some reason.
Yeah, oh no that Bazel sound again...
Must stop it with my Insect Glaive
@@LeDragoX The dive bomber just wants a hug
@@bagelgeuse5736 Nooooooo! ! !
Put a little bit of solder on the tip of the solder gun first, it will transfer the heat to the wire faster and more efficiently.
This was video made sodering wires way more complicated than it needs to be.
This video is for making waterproof connections.
You need these for places that regularly come in contact with water. Like in industrial water purifiers, rooftop solar panels or even garden wiring that will be buried under earth.
Advertising products a lot
Congratulations you made two mistakes in your comment while trying to be a smart ass
Excellent way to wind the wires. The solder joint was pretty good, too! Considering most electricians don't care.
I've had bad experiences with Weller soldering guns. Bought a ts 100 recently and it works much better
My Weller iron at work sucked so bad, I switched to a hakko and it was 100% easier than the Weller.
The TS-100 and TS-80 are absolute beasts
_Most of the people do these kinds of work just for the heck of it & that's quite temporary_
*But this work looks neat, smooth & durable*
_I wish electricians/technians in my area work with such detailing & precision_ ⚡️
Sir you absolutely save me so much aggravation. I was really never good at soldering until using your tips and tricks. You have got the best DIY and review channel on RUclips!!! Thank you so very much for all your awesome vids. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK
100
there are many how to solder videos out there but for me this is the most concise with the best tips for a beginner
Pro tip, after touching the sodding iron to the wire for a second or two, add a little solder right where the iron is touching the wire to make it conduct heat much faster to avoid melting the insulation.
You make it interesting yet you sound smart enough that I trust you implicitly
Messed up. The isolation is overheated and melted. If that was multiple phase hi-voltage wire that would cause the fire hazard.
Mistake was about melting the tin through the wire directly. Took too much time.
If you drop the melted tin on the cold wire covered the flux, it would be saturate exactly the same way.
Fine for ultra low voltage, high voltage insulation also doesn't bubble and warp anywhere near as easily
You wouldn't want to solder a joint on a high voltage cable, I imagine that's against the regs, you would need to use a clamp joint, and faulty cables should be replaced, not repaired if at all possible. Remembering high voltage is 35 to 230 Kv.
Right @ d dpo1r
Yeah should note I've never soldered anything over 24v. My note of the strength of high voltage insulation comes from heat shrink covering crimped lugs.
@@Cola.Cube. for navy regs and all shipwork they specify its fineable offense, and I know thats consistent in all ports in the US where the navy is.
Soldering videos are my cryptonite!
Today I learned everyone in the comments section has a PhD in soldering lol
thank you for the up. when i learned this back in college they skipped quite some steps but everything still holds. can recommend the dremel rod that uses lighter gas. will spend on the electric big boy later
Thank you for sharing I learned a few things that I didn't know before thank you very much
Just saw this in my feed and decided to watch, very informational, who knows if I may need this in the future
Ideally you would just want to tin each end and then solder the two tinned ends together. IPC recommends never twisting a copper wire because copper becomes more brittle the more you bend it and this will be amplified in environments with temperature extremes. Contorting wires like this video does would make it more likely that solder does not make full coverage on each individual strand. Also dialectic grease is a bit unnecessary. I think a good appropriately sized shrink tubing with adhesive should seal it and insulate well. If you are really worried, just layer the tubing
When you say "solder the two tinned ends together", do you mean just placing the two ends side by side so they overlap, then just touching them with the iron so the existing tin joins the ends? Or use fresh tin?
@@kingcrumpet the first thing you said. Tinning just refers to flowing solder on the wire. I will say that doing this by hand isn't always simple, but something I did when I did this in a production line was make wooden races for different gauge wires and then I wouldn't need 3 arms to hold the 2 wires while soldering.
@@tunina6421 Understood, thank you for replying so quickly. I need to solder in a new section of ignition coil wiring tomorrow to get my friend's car running again. I think rats chewed through it! Nothing like working on a production line to make you good at something!
Yes,make sure you put your heat shrink tube on the wire before you put wires together then add your stuff. Great tips!
Rosin core solder is also acceptable without the additional flux treatment beforehand. The 3m silicone and heat shrink is a must for any wet low voltage locations. Great video.
Most thorough, professional, step by step video I’ve ever seen on this topic. Keep it up!
Glad it was helpful!
Wires can be soldered, only for static positioning, otherwise in a machinery enviroment, vibrations will break the wire next to the soldered area 😉
The battle field says just get the damn thing working and back into the fight.
@@polla2256 the battlefield also provides you with electric energy to weld right? on the battlefield you just use solderseal wireconnectors, clamp it and heat with lighter or just tape it together till in a safe area
Nice.
Now I actually understand soldering.
i dont even solder, but this vid got recommended to me, and i was pleased
Totally pro this vedio was so helpful 👏
New subscriber here love it keep the wiring and electrical tips coming
Thanks for the sub!
Great video now to apply this to a real world repair on a vehicle . Video is great for demonstration on how to do it , I would love to see your methods when you have a word to repair in a place like under the dash or anywhere on a vehicle .
Almost anyone can do this when the you have such easy access to the wires. In most cases it’s not easy to access the wires you need to work on.
Was gonna post the same thing, but all these tutorial vids are made the same way we would probably make them, for instruction, then it is up to the repairer to apply these principles the best way possible, lying on your back, in the mud, under the truck, in the winter, 30 mph wind, or cramped up, in your bobcat, or under the hood of the car, 100 degrees out ,max humidity, mosquitos and ants all over you.
bluethooth on ear heqdphones😂😂😂😂😂
and there are also lots of devices, where they isolate the wire with paint, or the core is made out of plastic 🤧very bruh
sorry, fiber glass*
@@treeguyable i wouldnt advise solder if the cable is going to flex or vibrates a lot, there are better and quicker methods for that (clamping them together with a connection piece idk if there is an english term)
Very good. I now feel like I can solder some wire more successfully. Thanks for posting!
Woah, okay Weller makes a good iron on the top end but for a cheaper iron the ts-100 is hands down the best
Thanks!
Another great video Mr Silver! I will follow your instruction to the T. You really should have your own DIY TV show, you’re very good at it!
Thank you, you are very kind!
Bro, this is Simon from Amritsar, India. You helped me a lot,today only I was installing the wires for my ac and this time I was make all wires under wall. You saved my money
The puddle on the iron transfers heat faster.
Feed a puddle before holding against the wire, the puddle actually transfers the heat to the project, but if you're using this style of soldering gun, it's irrelevant because the surface area of the tip.
1 min in and already so many good tips. Thank you.
I would not recommend that giant clunky Weller. There are tons of inexpensive and smaller units that are waaaaay easier to hold. Some even have adjustable temps.
Dont buy the Weller gun
I agree. A soldering gun with over 200 watts of power is overkill if you're just soldering together a couple of low voltage wires.
A 30 or 40 watt soldering iron is more reasonable for the application. Weller also makes smaller soldering irons as well as more precise temperature-controlled soldering stations.
That’s what I was thinking too. I haven’t had to use one of those since the 90s. But it does have a trigger to control the heat and a lot of the cheaper lighter ones just stay on and hot as long as they’re plugged in.
Agreed 👍
Love this channel. I’m glad to see you’re getting the number of subscribers you deserve.
Me when I want to make a water tight connection I use small pieces of hot glue that I put in the heat shrink tube and when I apply heat it melt the glue and seals everything. The plus with the hot glue is that the solder now has a strain relief and it won't break as easy just beside the solder in an application where the wire would band alot.
Plumbing solder works just fine on electrical, used it hundreds of times. 👍👍
Dielectric grease is a waste of time, causes the shrink tube to slide off over time and prevent the glue from sealing, heating the wire from below puts too much heat in the wire and damages the insulation, its fine on small wires but larger ones will cause issues. Melt the solder over the wire with the iron and heat from below when theres more surface contact area to transfer heat in to the area instead of 6" down the conductor melting the insulation. Heating the entire wire also causes the solder to flow further down the wire causing the entire area to be come stiff, its also a giant waste of time. Ive soldered thousands of joints that lasted my entire career.
Thank you for pointing out the grease causing the tubing to slide off. Just get the tubing with the adhesive and problem solved no need for fancy grease
Thanks will try that today. Doing a throttle bidy 8plug replacement.
Pro-Tip: use these heat shrink tubes with glue (they are a little bit shinier than the normal ones on the inside). They won't slide of and they're helping by making the Wire stiffer, so that the wire won't Break at the end of the solder Connection...
Or can work fine if a second longer heat shrink with adhesive is used over it.
@@leaftye I often use different Layers of heat shrink tubes. In my cables are often two or more wires. So I am insulating the wires one by one and after that I will push one ore two Heat shrink tubes over THWe whole cable, so that the repaired Part is fully covered within these upper heat shrink tubes.
Great job my friend! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Alternate title: Fighting with an Archaic Soldering Iron for 10 Minutes
I didn't even think they were still made. I don't see any point to them.
@@joewoodchuck3824 they heat up way way faster than pen-style irons at the same price
Edit: and they provide full electical isolation from mains, cheap soldering irons can fuck that up and screw you and your electronics with 120/240v
@@alanowa123 you can buy a usb-c powered pinecil or miniware TS100 for around 30 usd that heats up to 300C in less than 15 seconds
Your how to video will be a fine addition to my collection.
Your video is excellent. Just a couple of points. I prefer to keep the soldering gun above the work to avoid excess solder and flux running down the tip. Also, in electronics, especially fine connection work, I disagree with heat up the work first. The reason for this is you can damage components and melt insulation of wire. Instead what I've learned and practiced for decades is to get make sure the tip of the soldering tool is hot, and to apply the solder to the place where the tip meets the work, usually at the same time the tip touches the work. Because tips tend to be round and the work as in the case of wire is round, the actual contact area between the two is small and so heat transfer is slow. By applying the solder to the place where both contact, you use the solder itself to instantly expand the contact area instantly and heat transfer rate significantly. This seems to create much better results. If you try it you will see what I mean.
FYI - the notion of heat the work first is still around but it's origins I believe are from things like plumbing and soldering tin, etc. Not the best for electrical from what I've experienced.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Love watching videos that speak to us like 4 year old children
Love your videos, but I think this one should be revisited. NASA uses the Lineman's Splice for a reason - it's better. Also called the Western Union Splice.
Skip the grease and use waterproof adhesive heat shrink. Normal heat shrink has no adhesive and the only keeping it slid over the joint is friction and shape. With the waterproof heat shrink the adhesive on the inside glues it to the insulator, solder joint, everything.
Lastly, I'd use a soldering iron vs gun for this.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
Really thank you for these valuable info in that short and polite and balanced video
Another soldering sponge tip is to get a old film canisters you use to drop your film off in stores to develop and fold your sponge into it. Most sponges that come with your irons don't need to be cut and you can just keep the sponge moist when you put the cap back on. The film canisters can also store brass type solder cleaners.
ruclips.net/video/upkEr2xKmTY/видео.html
What year are you living in buddy? I forgot those film canisters even existed 🤣
Thanks I learned a lot from this video👍🏾
if you get the marine heat shrink, it has the goop inside it already.
The purpose of flux is to break surface tension of liquid solder, but it really helps move the heat too, so I gob it on then alcohol it off afterward.
Flux chemically cleans the wire
Another great tips and training video. Thx
Went through 50 solder videos 2 months ago when trying to patch two light strips together - none of them covered everything as succinctly as this video.
Great and informative video. Thank you.
Awesome techniques. The only improvement would be a small fume extractor. Well worth the few dollars to save your lungs.
Definitely! or work outside if possible.
if you use grape or cherry flux you don't have to worry about it
@@russellzauner lol
when I was arc welding in trade college, I actually liked the fumes
Decent fume extractors are expensive as hell if not d.i.y. unfortunately.
As a former motorcycle mechanic whose workshop specialised in electrical issues I like this video!
The worst horrors were usually electrical related, and had any actual care been taken by the owner, they would never have become problematic!
I really enjoyed seeing your excellent video and your connection looked superb.
You'd be better using wagos
Remove flux residue, and clean the connection, with alcohol after soldering.
I've had that Weller soldering iron for over 40 years & it still works amazing and I've done some serious soldering with it. I use to tub out my models with it. Pull the trigger and cut through the plastic. I cleaned the same tip off when I got older and it's still mint...!
Don't clean the iron before you put it away, leave it covered in solder to protect the tip. Dab a small amount of solder to the tip before you start, it will help transfer the heat. Clean the flux of before you put the silicon on. And most importantly, if you ever plan on removing this connection, then don't do anything you see here. Just tin each wire, then lay them side by side, and heat the solder to join them.
Very informative and well presented. Thanks.
I don't remember seeing that in the IPC standard. Splitting wires is usually a no no. Be better to line the trimmed ends side by side and solder.
This man speaks the Truth!
Grate video bud. Can you tell me when you doing a review of the finished leoch. Thanks.
Unfortunately the one I received had shipping damage internally so I wasn't able to use it. I am working with them on a replacement.
@@SilverCymbal ok bud thanks.
@@SilverCymbal Did you get the one with the separate mppt controller that you plug in as well, you no, the one that hobotech got. If so, I have my own victron mppt controller but I need some information first like float charge equalization voltage & so on. If you could get that information from your external mppt controller they give you then I can use my own mppt controller instead of the junk they give you with it. If you don't mind that is. Lol
First time I saw this video and said wow. Great idea. Thank u for the video.
Why use flux paste when using rosin core solder? I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the only time I find you need flux is when using acid core solder and joining copper pipes.
there isn't enough to fully 'wet' the copper
There is no need. The only reason would be if you're trying to get the solder to penetrate further into the joint.
Extra flux can be a life safer imo. It makes some jobs much easier, although that's on pcbs in my experience.
I like to add a bit of no-clean liquid flux. Solder wets out better. But it is not necessary.
Extra flux helps the solder flow and wet the wires. It especially helps when using lead-free solder.
Awesome video, I've soldered hundreds of wires as an automotive technician, never did i think of using dielectric after the solder! Makes sense, considering i use it on connections! Thanks for the tip!! Glad I watched to see how you solder lol
Some basic tips, but the chosen soldering iron definitely looks like it can get too hot for smaller wires. Always keep that in mind.
Also, if you have enough wire to really solder properly, always go for the western union splice, AKA the one used by NASA standards. ;)
I thought the western union splice was more of a solid core thing?
@@tylercampbell3134 only partially, if you don't use solder. It has does a perfect connection with these strandedwires as well using solder. Only downside is the large wire area that becomes "stiff", but I never actually found that to be a problem, as I don't even try to attempt the western union splice if the wire isn't long enough due to lack of fine motor skill :(
Aka the lineman splice
I really needed this video 2 years ago when I was working on my GameCube controllers
Pro tip is to use an ACTUAL soldering iron, not that weird ass thing you got.
Or a soldering station with which you can vary the temperature
I prefer the electric pen style myself with the variable temperature. Not all solder is created equal.
Yes ...get a 25 watt soldering pen..
that's a soldering iron 🤨
Lmao 😂😂😂yeah
Great video. A lot of "pros" in the comments. I'm ex AF and would say he hits the major points. If you really need to dig in, Google NASA soldering and read up! Great vid
Adhesive lined shrink tubing is far superior to applying silicone grease and using regular heat shrink. It's kinda expensive but it's worth buying the good stuff.
Now I see why I have been soldering it wrong all along thanks for the tips !!!
Next pro tip: buy heat shrink with glue inside, then you don't need silicone grease ;)
Sounds a tool with bad quality
Why?
@@bartoszhuptysiowski1855 it's the same idea of a shampoo two in one, they try to simplify things in a single object but end up making something half good in two things.
@@williamgodoi9971 Yeah, and that's why energetic companies using this to repair high voltage cables. I'm using it in Offroad vehicles with no complaints. Try first to say something about quality.
Nice move using transparent shrink tubing leaving repaired wires visible!
Scientists and engineers at JPL/NASA do NOT suggest using the twist bindings you show. I was taught how to solder by one of their scientists. Most likely, the type of twist is relative to the job. You should probably state that.
Just getting back into electrical work, nice video.
i need to solder allot of wires. im trying to build an army! oh wait i need a soldier video.
Quick, informative, concise. Very cool video, definitely helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Great video the linesman splice is known as a western union splice
Brother new subscriber❤❤🇮🇳🇮🇳
I always get a giggle when Americans say solder and aluminium 😆
How do you say solder?
Probably pronounce it SOLD Errr
Aloominum. Lol
In America it’s called aluminum not aluminium, in fact when I spell it that way it shows up with a squiggly red line to show that I spelled it wrong.
the original was to be set upon word was to be aluminum, apparently editors or some science thing decided to stick another i just because it goes with -ium.
aluminum sounds way better and more consistent than Al U MiN EE uM. especially al/lumium which were the first thought of words when the metal was found before settling on aluminum and having it pointlessly changed to aluminium.
solder isnt even with an l in older forms such as sou-der or -dure.
unless you go all the way back to solid-are and solid-us.
the british-english who often dwell on things to compensate for their lack of intelligence unlike those of them who probably paved the way for them, and are more productive, dont seem to get anywhere except to pointless problems.
Excellent Video! The correct way to solder wire!!!