I use LOTS of connectors on my 36' hot shot gooseneck. I pull it all over the US and through every road and weather condition you can imagine. The connections are exposed to constant corrosion and movement from trailer bouncing. I used crimp on connecters for years and what I found was the crimp style would re-break right at the crimp within a few months. I even tried double shrink wrapping a few inches long to help support the wire connection and always the break was at the crimped section. Mind you most of my work was done in rest areas and truck stop parking lots. Switched to this style and use a butane torch and the re-breaking issue is gone. What I do is strip a decent length on both pieces and slide the connecter over one, twist the wires together and center the connector before heating.
Hello, At the facility where I retired from, We had a vendor demo some of these type connectors which the person making the presentation cooled off the connector and offered the connector to one of us to pull apart. We routinely used the seamless butt connectors crimped with crimping pliers along with the heavy walled self adhesive heat shrink tubing which worked very well for the type of wiring that was performed on our trucks & equipment. There was absolutely no benefit in changing the type of connectors from what really worked for us to the Solder Seal type connectors. I think that you were more than fair with your presentations regarding the connectors and very willing to change your approach when being criticized. Thanks for your informative videos.
The fact that you can solder and waterproof a connection one handed is priceless in my life. I don't think full penetration of the solder is required in most situations either, although I can certainly think of a few. If you aren't seeing any resistance in the connection it comes down to how durable the connection is and this design is looking pretty damn good.
I question that these are really waterproof. Here's a test -- apply the insulation part only to the end of a wire, use a razor to slice down the length of the connectors insulation, and then see how easily the butt connector peels off. Repeat the exercise, but instead of cutting the connector's insulation, put it in a vise and see how hard it is to pull it off your wire. Now repeat the exercise with a quality adhesive heat shrink. In my testing these performed no better than non-adhesive heat shrink. With the lack of full solder penetration that I observed, that makes me concerned that in a wet/corrosive environment (like the underside of a car) over time these will develop corrosion inside and become high resistance joints.
I know that it's been over a year, but I appreciate you going back and doing this test again. I was one of those commenters, the friendly but questioning type, who poked a few holes in the technique and the particular versions that you were using. I've had okay results with some of the knockoffs but also do prefer finding better ones. When you're upside down under a dashboard, these are a way better option than trying to solder against gravity. I actually wouldn't compare them to soldering directly, I compare them to using cheap butt connectors or other second rate splices from the hardware store. In that case, these come out way on top.
One thing that's often overlooked in this type of video, is a discussion regarding access to the area to be repaired. A repair completed on a work bench is always going to easier than a repair in the field. I recently discovered a bunch of wires were chewed through on my Yamaha outboard. Ideally, I would have soldered them and then used a heat shrink tube over that. However, given the tight quarters, it wasn't possible to properly twist the wires together to solder. I could do it "well-enough" for a solder seal connector. All the same, great video! Thanks!
Good video. I just got some of the “knock offs” through Amazon. Only after that did I run across your video. Your first review of the knock offs didn’t seem to flow the solder. I just tried one of mine and used the torch. Mine flowed so well it actually had a small bead come out the end. I believe if you tried one of the first knock offs and applied good heat your results would be more favorable. I cut mine open and tried the stress test. Guess what. It simply pulled apart! And that solder was really melted! Which tells me the solder melts but the strands don’t get hot enough to bond to the solder. My assessment is these are junk. I’ll stick to hand soldering and shrink tubing.
if you want more of the penetration and yet maintain the simplicity but make it even better. put flux on the strands before you use the solder seal or the knock off. that will allow the solder to flow much better and quicker giving a much better flow and joint
doesn’t help, you’re not getting the copper hot enough for flux to work properly and draw in solder. i’ve cut them open both ways and no difference. The only way to get a little bit better bond is to tin them first. Still get a decent bond without it though if done properly.
@@MegaTapdog T&E Connectivity makes a version and specifies a tool they sell for installation. These guys are like Molex and Amophenol, i.e. big name in the crimp terminal market which means their stuff is heavily specced tested and certified but the tooling costs an arm and a leg.
That’s a great point. I will try that to see if it makes a difference. I’ve found staying on it for a while with a heat gun until I see the solder ring change its state to liquid seems to work for me. Thank you for that suggestion. May God Bless.
We were trained to do that but I took to it right away. We always got inspections of our work and I never had a reject. We used the standard industrial heat gun.
If you want to do a proper measurement to check for resistance across the different methods you will need to put a load through the connection and measure voltage drop across the connection. The higher the voltage drop measured across the joint, the higher the resistance in the joint. Can be calculated by the measured amps and volts. R=v/a (ohm’s law) Hope this helps. Would love to see the results.
YES! I was thinking the same thing. There is a test called "meggering" which does this for testing motor windings, transformers, etc.. Simply measuring resistance with an ohm meter is not valid. That said, I'm pretty sure these connectors are better than a crimp style for automotive purposes.
@@jerryvikla3925The resistance, in ohms, is the same no matter the load. A higher load will suffer a larger voltage drop for any given resistance, but it will not matter what load you apply, as long as you are not creating significant heating (which slightly increases resistance in most conductors regardless of whether there is a joint or not, and which may decrease joint integrity), you will get the same value for the resistance in ohms that the meter gets... The meter is applying a voltage and measuring the current that flows, which is just a rearrangement of the equation using a known load (current), and measuring the voltage drop.
I realize it’s been a few years but I just came across your interesting subject. I appreciate what you’re doing here in an almost perfect environment on the bench. I’m not sure if I missed you mentioning this, but in my opinion, doing these tests in the field (like under a car hood or dash while lying upside down or on a trailer in realistic different weather conditions) would be the best demonstration for the best connector methods. I’m not at all suggesting you do thisI however, noting this factor would help some of us get this to work in realistic situations. I haven’t seen any demos soldering in a realistic situation on a car like many of us will be doing where the success rate is questionable at best. Certainly, learning to properly to solder wire and using different terminals on the bench first is absolutely necessary for determining what terminals to use and how as your demo depicts. As I’m sure you are aware, applying this in the field is the real challenge. Not at all discounting your efforts and the bench is the best place to start, just voicing how I look at this because sometimes it is quite difficult to create just the right environment for soldering off the bench and which connectors are best to use considering the applications. Thank you for the pointers and demonstration. May God Bless.
Watching the video on the solder seal link from your video it’s stating to use a hot air gun only as a heat source. Watching another you tuber, he pushed the wires into each other and did not twist before applying heat and seemed to get great penetration. People in the comments of many you tube channels get nasty as people have power for the moment. It was nice to see you revisit the topic and try again. I think these items are a nice alternative provided they can keep a proper seal and not let corrosion into the joint. Nice video.
I appreciate the heads up on your update. This is much closer to what my experience has been using these. I mainly started using them because the majority of the wiring I do is in cars with extremely limited access. After getting better at it I generally use these for most applications now because it saves a few steps by not having to solder and then follow up with heat shrink. The only time I go for traditional solder now is when using thicker gauge wire as I've found that these things melt before the solder actually flows. Either way, great follow up and update!
I used these on auto applications too with a Butane Lexivon(?) torch. Able to do it upside and portable with no reason to go to Butt connector crimps. Decade long on the oldest ones I did and still working. Not as good as myself soldering it but pretty close to it I think and the glued double ends (water seal) is just a bonus in something like a Jeep or a convertible. Thanks for doing a follow up video.
Thanks for your humility to do a "partial redemption video." I didn't see the original one as I've just discovered solder seal. Seriously considering it for my Techs doing Church and School AVL installs.
These work fantastic in tight quarters and at odd angles where you aren't given enough wire length to begin with. I don't rely on the solder to make the electoral connection. I always twist the wires together. That way the solder really only has to mechanically lock the strands together. You'll have to have a DLRO resistance tester to measure resistance that low. Like is used checking electric motors.
Its great to see RUclipsrs really take note of comments and go out to address some of the issues, thank you for taking the time to do this. I play in the amateur radio world and spend a lot of my time out in the field portable. If I have a power line break, or any other simple wire break, then I have used the all on one jobs no problems. The pull test shows that there is bonding within the joint, but the amount of pulling shown on your video will never happen in my case but a really good example of what can be achieved. The other area they are really handy is in confined spaces. If I have to put a power lead through the bulkhead, rather than deconstruct the plug, just snip the wires and quickly join them again, easy. Great vlog and again, thanks for sharing.
id love to know what brand of connectors are being used? Can someone please link them if they are good? ALSO- would tinning the wires first with a low temp solder help the bond i wonder??
Good video. Do you know if there is a US distributor for the solderseal brand connectors? Shipping overseas to the US would probably double the cost of a small box of these connectors?
Just wired my boat with these and heat shrink. Rosin core flux and thin diameter solder wrapped around your splice help these out tremendously. The cheap ones i got off Amazon just simply didnt have enough soder for a proper connection.
I bought the knock of box like yours for A$6.00 from Temu they seem to work fine for me, I changed light fittings and cctv connections on the roof and they seem to be holding up well after 6 month in the elements. Plus it was easier using a heatgun while standing on the ladder.
I remember trying these things out about 45 years ago, when I was still in the Air Force. We were given quite a few of them to try in the shop. All of us were impressed, and saw great potential in them. We used heat guns to melt the solder/shrink the wrap. Never had an issue with continuity, and the speed of use, compared to soldering wires together could make or break an aircraft performing it's mission.
I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU DID THIS TEST THE WAY YOU DID!! SPECIALLY AFTER ALREADY HAVING DONE THIS TEST ALREADY!!!... I would have done it the same exact way lol. GREAT DATA! 👍 👌 thank you!!
Im a motorbike rider and i used to carry a small bag with a solder iron flux heat shrink and solder just in case it was ever needed. I found my gas soldering iron would be empty when eventually i pulled it out the bike for other jobs this lead to me carrying a can of gas as well. I was recently given a pack of these by a mechanic and instead of carrying a small bag i carry a small mint tin with a mix of these and a mini blowtorch lighter. I ride a honda st1300 which is super reliable so the tools and bits i carry are usually in case a mate breaks down
I had a mate that used a bare flame by his bike. It ignited the petrol fumes, we dropped the bike and watched it go up in flames. For us it was the funniest thing we ever saw but for him it was a total disaster because he wasn’t supposed to be out on the bike and he had to go home and show his dad 😂. Don’t use naked flames near motorbikes you are asking for trouble.
I bought the knock-offs and couldn't get the solder to flow at all without burning the shield. I did try a lower setting (heat gun) on another piece and it took forever to get the insulator to shrink and the solder did not appear to flow at all. I kept them on anyway because I was getting signal through them by virtue of twisted wires. I assumed the solder was going to be the lower heat type and easy to flow. Disappointing experience for me.
I have to ask. In the first vid you were pointing at your soldering station like it cost less than those knock off connectors. When the one on your amazon kickback list doesn't even have adjustable temp or an actual station it's just a bunch of individual pieces. How much was the solder station on your work bench?
A full solder station is going to run $50 and up, but to do basic soldering, like soldering two wires together a full station with adjustability isn’t necessary. I have a full station because I do a lot of work soldering components to boards which needs the variability.
Thank you so much for both of these videos. You certainly didnt deserve nastiness for trying to present useful first-person information. Good to know that there's a difference in product quality. Having just done a minor bit of auto wiring, I can appreciate the benefits of soldered connections versus crimping. The portability issue can be important to those of us who live in apartments and don't have a ready source of AC power at their vehicles. That makes these attractive, and you've provided a good practical look at them.
Thanks honest review! the originals are a thousand times better than the knock off's it ok when you're just want to do a quick solder away from electric power they work, but buy the originals!
Also being smaller and more compact, especially if working under dash.. the connectors make sure a drip of molten metal also does not land on your hand or face.
I'm soldering under the dash of my 71 Scamp. For the time being, I just soldered the connections for the flasher relay with a soldering iron. SUCH A PAIN!!! No real place to support the wires, unless I grew a third arm and hand, and am seriously considering the solder sleeves with the butane heatgun(?). I found myself using thin wires to tie up the wire to be soldered and with not much room, was successful but there was always the chance of touching another wire with the soldering iron, which is never good. I just watched both of your videos back-to-back, and appreciate you retesting the sleeves. Makes me feel much more comfortable especially in those hard to reach areas. I'm not a yoga master and trying to use a soldering iron lying on my back is NO fun at all while arching my lower back across the door sill plate lol Thank you, Sir, and nice work! P.S. Do you have an item description or link for the ORIGINAL solder sleeves? Thanks!
for that kind of in-place soldering you can make or buy a mini junction holding jig. Picture a x "C" with 90-degree bends and heavy alligator clips on each end.
you need to heat the wires first , dip in flux , then twist then sleeve then heat , as with all soldering it depends on the wire , some wires don’t like solder
Using flux on the wire will make the solder flow and stick better. It looks like the solder you are using has a rosin core; the test is not an "apples-to-apples" comparison. I do like the one-stop solder and heat shrink versus having to do a two-step (solder and then heat shrink) method. Since I am going to do a lot of outdoor wiring, I will give this a try.
I have noticed the solder not going all shiny as well i think its juat an oxide layer that says i do doubt they get the wire hot enough to bond but they seem fine
Have used them a lot, they are very good if you have the space to maneuver your heat source around the connection hovever often you will be using them to repair wires in cramped spaces then they are rubbish. Problem is that too much heat will burn though the plastic tube and getting to heat the rear side is not always possible (example. headlight wiring on cars)
the best ones ive used are the TE / raychem ones but they are dumb-expensive. like a dollar each. ive found that the key to success with these products is to use a shorter exposed section than you would normally. no more than double the width of the solder band.
TE Connectivity are definitely the better ones I've used as well. You can get them on Mouser for much cheaper though, as pricing is for 100 per unit. So about 3.10 bucks for a pack of 100.
I have used the knock off solder seal connectors for years in my service van and trailer, mainly for the reason I didn't need to drag out a cord and everything needed for a true solder connection. Yes convionounse over longevity. On emergency repairs the cordless heat gun is readily available. One of the other people mentioned and I will also state, I am not looking for a 100% water tite seal just keeping water from making direct contact. hoping it will either evaporate off or freeze solid before it works its way in. Now if I was making connections for a boat trailer or something in direct contact with water I certainly would make sure it was 100% water tight, but yet serviceable. As far as the connectivity being a issue I cant say it was a problem with the company, but a error on my part. I will buy the tur solder seal product on my next purchase but I am well stocked for a while. In a couple of years there will be something even better on the market to replace even this product... Now if someone could invent a better long-term grounding connection for trucks and tailers I am interested? Always an issue....
When I worked at GE in the harness department, we used solder sleeve connections exclusively. The went on military aircraft and would experience a lot of vibration and worked fine.
I spent too many hours to mention a couple winters ago experimenting with these solder seal butt connectors. My conclusions? 1)They work better and the solder penetrates better if you put a dab of flux on the joint before putting the connector over the joint. 2)The quality of the joint using the solder seal butt connectors varies with the brand. 3)To get the solder to melt/wick you have to be right on the verge of melting the insulation. Obviously not good. 4)Solder seal connectors will work in a pinch but I would not trust them for a permanent repair in a harder to access area.
When I was still working as an engineer and project manager, the old saying was Quality, Cost and Time, you only get to pick two. These solder sleeves save time, but at the sacrifice of both cost and quality. If cost and quality don’t matter to you and you just want a quick joint, than have at it. I won’t use these for any connection that really matters. For a quick and dirty connection on something I plan to sell within a year, then maybe.
Lots of folks have said connectors of this type are used extensively in aviation. If they are approved for aviation, there must have been a lot of testing for quality of connection.
@@dansanger5340 They aren't approved in aviation. In fact, AC 43.13-1B, acceptable methods, techniques and practices, Chapter 11, Section 13, paragraph 11-167 with the most recent revision doesn't even allow for any solder joints in aircraft wiring. The previous revision accepted solder joints but did not recommend them. The current revision doesn't allow them at all. The favored method of splicing wiring on aircraft is a self insulated butt splice connector (heat shrinkable butt splice connector). Non-insulated butt splice connectors are accepted when used with heat shrink sheathing and double walled heat shrink (aka: environmentally sealed splice) is required for applications where moisture is a concern. This is all for aviation but for non-aviation use the best way to connect two wires is to use a double walled, marine grade butt splice connector with a ratcheting crimping tool. The heat shrink has sealing glue (the double wall aspect) that melts and makes an air-tight seal around the butt splice connector.
im a farmer. in the places i have to join two happy electrode highways i dont have the benefit of plug-in electrical power. ive been using these on boats, trailers, my trucky, farm equipment, security systems, etc. etc. so far so good, plus its easy to use.
You should consider doing a test with the te/raychem version. They are amazing, although a bit expensive. They are qualified for use in aircraft and munitions.
I realize that it wouldn't be as convenient. But, would it be a good idea to tin the wires before using the solder seal connectors? I'm guessing that this would just add to the strength of the connection.
Good video. Only issue I have is you have to decide “to stache or not to stache because when your sponsor break came on, I was like “now who the hell is this goofball?! Lol
I love having these Solder shrink wraps In my shop for the few times a year, I solder wires. It would be different if I was using them often. I find that it’s actually encourages me to solder the wires rather than just wrap and use black tape. So while you’re comparing it to our proper soldering, I’m comparing it to a twist and tape. L O L so in my situation, it’s always preferable to use the solder wraps.
Loved your response to the nasty commentors... "Hi..??" Excellent response. So much negativity when people are hiding behind their keyboard. I didn't think you were unfair in the first video, my only comment on that one would have been to set your camera to manual focus and focus it yourself so it doesn't keep shifting the focus. I found these incredibly helpful as I had also seen these connectors all over the place and kept wondering if they were really all that good, or if we were being bamboozled. I'm in the middle of a restoration project on an older Jeep CJ-5, and it's getting close to the point where the electrical work will be starting so I really am glad I found your review. Seemed to me you took pains to be honest and open, and I thank you for that.
Did you happen to ever check the resistance of the knockoffs? Since you melted them better in this video I wish you'd have checked the resistance of them.
I use the Amazon ones, haven't really noticed a difference in quality but what it does allow me to do is make a permanent repair thats water proof. So for working on powersports stuff, it's my go to for repairing wire. Otherwise, it's heat shrink, soldier working in super limited space, only 1 hand to hold wire. With these guys, its strip it back slide one on, make the mechanical splice, sleeve it and heat. All done.
The ohmmeter was off the scale for the yellow wire and for both of the red wires. It was very close to full scale for the first wire you checked too, so all we saw is that the resistance was less with the conventional joint, but couldn't see how much less it was. It's not good practice to take readings on any instrument at more than 90% of full scale or less than 10% of full scale.
I'm also curious what the results using the soldering sleeves might be but applying some solder flux to the wires before sliding the sleeve on and then heating it? Do you think it may cause more solder penetration throughout the splice?
Horses for courses. I mostly do not need tensile strength in the automotive where I use the solder seal connectors. But, ease of use is high on priority. In some more demanding where access is easier, I join wires, push solder seal away as far as possible tin and solder with solder iron, let cool and slide back the solder seal connector and as normal. The heat in the latter process is sufficient to melt the SSWC solder but not sufficient to effect the original solder. The old solder method also creates a definite break in solder penetration furthest away from the solder. In cases where you have a lot of wire flex, e,g, motorcycle handles the likelihood of concentrated stress points in the wire is greater. Choose appropriately for the best of both worlds.
Great Video, Thank You for Your Time! I used a so-called premium version off Amazon, and sadly had the same result as your first video. Using a heat gun simply did not melt the solder very well, and the heat shrink ends darned near burned and still no good solder flow. I question whether these things are better than crimp connectors. I know in my heart that they are not better as an old school solder joint. Again, I thank you for your time.
These don’t work for me test pulling they come right apart Idk what I’m doing wrong here but I’ll be using but connectors was worth a shot but the solders not going all the way through on my connection.
You need an apples to apples comparison. The solder seal connections also provide you with an insulator around the joint, which is waterproof in one step. Standard soldering requires you to have heat-shrink tubing to apply over the soldered connection using a heat gun or other heat source, so it is an extra step
Thanks for your super detailed video - one observation however: when measuring resistance through a joint, keep your fingers away from the wires and DVOM leads....why? Your body has a large resistance and so your measurement will be inaccurate. If the joint is correctly soldered there must be NO/MINIMUM resistance recorded . Happy day!
Who taught you to check resistance like that ?? You cant have your body in the circuit. When you hold the wire to the meter contacts with your fingers you will get the same reading by putting a thumb on each contact The meter can read across your shoulders . A better comparison would be with a crimped joint than soldered joint that you put three inches of solder into
Nice comparison but the resistance test is a bit flawed. The ohmmeter you are using is not capable of measuring micro-ohms or mili-ohms. If you don’t have a DLRO (digital low resistance ohmmeter), measuring voltage drop across the splice while under a known load is the best way to determine resistance. Use ohms law, R= V/A to calculate resistance. (DLRO uses a 4 wire kelvin bridge to do the same thing)With that said, others have completed this test and only found a few mili-ohms variance in resistance between the solder seal connectors and a conventional solder joint. Even with the lack of solder through the joint. One can calculate the wattage across the joint and do a relative comparison of generated heat at the splice joint. Watts = A*V. Typically just a few watts difference between the types of joints, not enough to matter. In most situations, the solder seal connecter is fine for the loads they are designed for. Where one would get into trouble with solder seal connectors is under high current loads but the conductor sizes that are compatible with solder seal connectors aren’t capable of high current loads. Over current protection would open the circuit. Areas with high ambient heat, engine compartments, enclosed electronics, etc, could present an issue. High heat will increase resistance and effectively create more heat in the joint. If running max amperage through a conductor in a hot environment, the joint could potentially fail. As a reliability engineer, would I allow solder seal connectors to be used in less critical applications with light loads, Yes. In a critical application that might result in equipment damage, downtime or injury, No.
@farmerjim-fat-man-do First, I have to say it's nice to see a comment as long or even longer than I would usually make... I cop so much grief for them but I like detail. To your point... The meter was at full scale for the first wire and actually off scale for the next three wires, so would a super low reading meter be any use? I don't know what the scale was but I doubt the resistance was in the micro ohm range for those wires even without any joint in them. Also, isn't the resistance independent of the load? A higher load will suffer a larger voltage drop for any given resistance, but as long as you're not causing significant heating, the resistance in ohms will be the same for a half amp load and a 5A load... with or without a joint in the wire. Also, the purpose was to see which gave a lower resistance, as opposed to determining the exact resistance. The meter being at or beyond full scale prevented that comparison, a fact of which he seems to be unaware, but other than that, wouldn't a simple meter with sufficiently high range enable such a comparison, even if it may not be within 10% of the true value?
The resistance test is a waste of time. Once the stranded wires are intertwined, the ohm reading is going to be zero without any solder. No difference than touching the meter leads together, especially using a non-TRMS meter.
I use a version of these at work. We only use the smallest 3 and use an electric 240v heat gun. No burning with the heat gun, and the ones we use are just as quick. If you want a good joint, don't use a flame. We also don't twist them together. It's just a straight job with one on to of the other. I know it's a Yank thing... but please remember there's an L in soLder! It's not sodder 😅 bit you do miss the i out of aluminium.
'Solder' is pronounced 'sodder,' genius. Either be very, very quiet, or become educated. Here's another one: go back to the meat packing plant, petro- chemical or other such nonsense and sweep your designated floor areas.
You've got the right idea but that end, on your heat gun, does not center the heat on the solder part of the connector. Youneed to rotate the joint and center the heat on the solder. It should flow around the wire. With the diveertor it will heat the insulation too much before the solder melts. Thanks for the location of these heat shrink connectors. The cheap ones are useless.
One thing that still makes this test unfair is the amount of solder on each joint. You have a certain amount of solder in the solder seal but you can keep putting solder on your own joint until you see full penetration. Next time take the solder out of the solder seal and weight it and use the same amount on your own joint. I realize the whole point is to show that one way is better but if you're going to do a stress test fairly. Also when using the solder seal try using a tooth pick to put some flux inside of the solder ring. Nice video though.
Doing it the way you suggested makes the test unfair. This test shows the difference between the solder seal and a properly soldered joint. If the solder seal doesn’t contain enough solder to properly solder a joint this demonstrates that. Being able to add solder until the joint has been properly soldered together demonstrates a flaw with the solder seal. This also demonstrates that the solder seal lacks significant flux. In a real world application no one is going to be pulling out tooth pics and adding flux to the inside of the seal. What your suggesting would be giving the solder seal an unfair and impractical advantage.
You were probably unaware of the drama that goes along with this subject. There are some really lame people who have their method, and are very quick to tell you you're doing it wrong, and you're an irresponsible person for doing it the way you are.
Regarding solderseal, you said "...these are the authentic ones not the knock off ones...". But solderseal's ARE knockoffs. So you previously tested knockoffs of knockoffs. The original and authentic ones are Raychem, now owned by TE Connectivity.
I just wanted to point out that soldering is not the best way for all applications, for a example, high vibrations because it makes the wire hard and can literally break off. I prefer to use uninsulated nickel plated copper connectors and heat shrink
So the reason use soldeeseal type is because I can't solder even if my life depended on it. Being able to solder the traditional method takes a lot of practice and experience which I just don't have. I'm sure pros that do this for a living have the skills to solder and make it the best connection possible)e. On the flipside is someone like moi. Who isn't a professional and only need to solder from time to time as need arise. There's no way I can solder like a pro . So solderseals makes it easy for me to tackle these needs that Come up every once in a while.
Your bias lol your just sad that a dumb cheap connector renders your big fancy soldering skills useless 😅 your first video almost turned me off of these great little things. Thanks for the follow up vid. Great job 👏
@@DoItYourselfDad he was quite obviously joking. but aside from him, where are all the people that think that? I genuinely don't know one single person.. Unless you were joking too
Dude, you can't effectively measure resistance of a wire with a simple, non-digital multimeter! Basically all you're going to see is if there's some kind of connection. You would have gotten the same reading even if only one single strand of the wire was touching one other strand, not even being soldered. So the resistance test, the way you did it, was completely without value. You would actually need something that could measure down to thousandths of an ohm or less if you really wanted to compare the efficacy of the solder seal connectors. And the value of these things is going to totally be determined by what the wire is being used for. Is it an automotive wire, where all you're doing is routing 12 Volts from one place to another without a lot of Amps? In that case these things are probably perfect. You just need a decent electrical connection, and one that won't come apart. Or is it something where the wire will be conducting a lot of Amps, like I frequently do with r/c motors? (Maybe 50 to 120 Amps.) In that case it has to have a near perfect connection that can handle the Amps and not melt. (I really question if these connectors would be good for that purpose.) Or is it in some electronic circuit carrying high frequency signals? You probably won't use these there either but in such a case it absolutely must not have a "cold" or crystalized solder joint. So testing should really be in relation to where it will be used. And just as an aside, resistance is not actually bad. It's a necessary element in electronic circuits. It's only bad when you have too little or too much in the wrong place or for the wrong purpose.
you're still not doing it correctly. You twist the wires together not just push it together. Also, you have to move the heat around, so you don't overheat in one spot.
I understand that people want this to be the answer. but it is not. you need to understand the difference between cold solder and solder used to make reliable connections. these are effectively dry joints and they will crack. Resistance tested over a few cm is never an indication either. Do not use in a car. Solder doesn't belong in car wiring looms. A ratchet crimper and a kit of 459 U shaped butt splice crimps is a much better and cheap option. About $30 for hundreds
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Get the real deal connectors here: amzn.to/4h55OUM
I use LOTS of connectors on my 36' hot shot gooseneck. I pull it all over the US and through every road and weather condition you can imagine. The connections are exposed to constant corrosion and movement from trailer bouncing. I used crimp on connecters for years and what I found was the crimp style would re-break right at the crimp within a few months. I even tried double shrink wrapping a few inches long to help support the wire connection and always the break was at the crimped section. Mind you most of my work was done in rest areas and truck stop parking lots.
Switched to this style and use a butane torch and the re-breaking issue is gone. What I do is strip a decent length on both pieces and slide the connecter over one, twist the wires together and center the connector before heating.
Hello, At the facility where I retired from, We had a vendor demo some of these type connectors which the person making the presentation cooled off the connector and offered the connector to one of us to pull apart. We routinely used the seamless butt connectors crimped with crimping pliers along with the heavy walled self adhesive heat shrink tubing which worked very well for the type of wiring that was performed on our trucks & equipment.
There was absolutely no benefit in changing the type of connectors from what really worked for us to the Solder Seal type connectors.
I think that you were more than fair with your presentations regarding the connectors and very willing to change your approach when being criticized. Thanks for your informative videos.
The fact that you can solder and waterproof a connection one handed is priceless in my life. I don't think full penetration of the solder is required in most situations either, although I can certainly think of a few. If you aren't seeing any resistance in the connection it comes down to how durable the connection is and this design is looking pretty damn good.
I question that these are really waterproof. Here's a test -- apply the insulation part only to the end of a wire, use a razor to slice down the length of the connectors insulation, and then see how easily the butt connector peels off. Repeat the exercise, but instead of cutting the connector's insulation, put it in a vise and see how hard it is to pull it off your wire. Now repeat the exercise with a quality adhesive heat shrink. In my testing these performed no better than non-adhesive heat shrink. With the lack of full solder penetration that I observed, that makes me concerned that in a wet/corrosive environment (like the underside of a car) over time these will develop corrosion inside and become high resistance joints.
It's cold solder. guaranteed dry joint in a car. Probable in other environments. Perfect for the home handyman.
Penetration of the solder isn’t necessary. Remember the current flows on the outside of the wire, not inside.
@@jamescaneda9515No, DC does NOT flow on the outside of the wire.
@@LTVoyager Higher amps require more power, hence more fine wires are needed. If what you say is true, then a Single solid wire would be sufficient.
I know that it's been over a year, but I appreciate you going back and doing this test again. I was one of those commenters, the friendly but questioning type, who poked a few holes in the technique and the particular versions that you were using. I've had okay results with some of the knockoffs but also do prefer finding better ones. When you're upside down under a dashboard, these are a way better option than trying to solder against gravity. I actually wouldn't compare them to soldering directly, I compare them to using cheap butt connectors or other second rate splices from the hardware store. In that case, these come out way on top.
How did you get the authentic connectors when the website isn't operational?
Great point trying to solder upside-down.👍
One thing that's often overlooked in this type of video, is a discussion regarding access to the area to be repaired. A repair completed on a work bench is always going to easier than a repair in the field. I recently discovered a bunch of wires were chewed through on my Yamaha outboard. Ideally, I would have soldered them and then used a heat shrink tube over that. However, given the tight quarters, it wasn't possible to properly twist the wires together to solder. I could do it "well-enough" for a solder seal connector. All the same, great video! Thanks!
Very good point!
Good video. I just got some of the “knock offs” through Amazon. Only after that did I run across your video. Your first review of the knock offs didn’t seem to flow the solder. I just tried one of mine and used the torch. Mine flowed so well it actually had a small bead come out the end. I believe if you tried one of the first knock offs and applied good heat your results would be more favorable. I cut mine open and tried the stress test. Guess what. It simply pulled apart! And that solder was really melted! Which tells me the solder melts but the strands don’t get hot enough to bond to the solder. My assessment is these are junk. I’ll stick to hand soldering and shrink tubing.
Very interesting, thank you....
if you want more of the penetration and yet maintain the simplicity but make it even better. put flux on the strands before you use the solder seal or the knock off. that will allow the solder to flow much better and quicker giving a much better flow and joint
doesn’t help, you’re not getting the copper hot enough for flux to work properly and draw in solder. i’ve cut them open both ways and no difference. The only way to get a little bit better bond is to tin them first. Still get a decent bond without it though if done properly.
@@MegaTapdog T&E Connectivity makes a version and specifies a tool they sell for installation. These guys are like Molex and Amophenol, i.e. big name in the crimp terminal market which means their stuff is heavily specced tested and certified but the tooling costs an arm and a leg.
That’s a great point. I will try that to see if it makes a difference. I’ve found staying on it for a while with a heat gun until I see the solder ring change its state to liquid seems to work for me. Thank you for that suggestion. May God Bless.
We were trained to do that but I took to it right away. We always got inspections of our work and I never had a reject. We used the standard industrial heat gun.
If you want to do a proper measurement to check for resistance across the different methods you will need to put a load through the connection and measure voltage drop across the connection. The higher the voltage drop measured across the joint, the higher the resistance in the joint. Can be calculated by the measured amps and volts. R=v/a (ohm’s law)
Hope this helps. Would love to see the results.
YES! I was thinking the same thing. There is a test called "meggering" which does this for testing motor windings, transformers, etc.. Simply measuring resistance with an ohm meter is not valid. That said, I'm pretty sure these connectors are better than a crimp style for automotive purposes.
@@jerryvikla3925The resistance, in ohms, is the same no matter the load. A higher load will suffer a larger voltage drop for any given resistance, but it will not matter what load you apply, as long as you are not creating significant heating (which slightly increases resistance in most conductors regardless of whether there is a joint or not, and which may decrease joint integrity), you will get the same value for the resistance in ohms that the meter gets... The meter is applying a voltage and measuring the current that flows, which is just a rearrangement of the equation using a known load (current), and measuring the voltage drop.
I realize it’s been a few years but I just came across your interesting subject. I appreciate what you’re doing here in an almost perfect environment on the bench. I’m not sure if I missed you mentioning this, but in my opinion, doing these tests in the field (like under a car hood or dash while lying upside down or on a trailer in realistic different weather conditions) would be the best demonstration for the best connector methods. I’m not at all suggesting you do thisI however, noting this factor would help some of us get this to work in realistic situations. I haven’t seen any demos soldering in a realistic situation on a car like many of us will be doing where the success rate is questionable at best. Certainly, learning to properly to solder wire and using different terminals on the bench first is absolutely necessary for determining what terminals to use and how as your demo depicts. As I’m sure you are aware, applying this in the field is the real challenge. Not at all discounting your efforts and the bench is the best place to start, just voicing how I look at this because sometimes it is quite difficult to create just the right environment for soldering off the bench and which connectors are best to use considering the applications. Thank you for the pointers and demonstration. May God Bless.
Watching the video on the solder seal link from your video it’s stating to use a hot air gun only as a heat source. Watching another you tuber, he pushed the wires into each other and did not twist before applying heat and seemed to get great penetration.
People in the comments of many you tube channels get nasty as people have power for the moment. It was nice to see you revisit the topic and try again. I think these items are a nice alternative provided they can keep a proper seal and not let corrosion into the joint. Nice video.
I appreciate the heads up on your update. This is much closer to what my experience has been using these. I mainly started using them because the majority of the wiring I do is in cars with extremely limited access. After getting better at it I generally use these for most applications now because it saves a few steps by not having to solder and then follow up with heat shrink. The only time I go for traditional solder now is when using thicker gauge wire as I've found that these things melt before the solder actually flows.
Either way, great follow up and update!
I used these on auto applications too with a Butane Lexivon(?) torch. Able to do it upside and portable with no reason to go to Butt connector crimps. Decade long on the oldest ones I did and still working. Not as good as myself soldering it but pretty close to it I think and the glued double ends (water seal) is just a bonus in something like a Jeep or a convertible. Thanks for doing a follow up video.
Thanks for your humility to do a "partial redemption video." I didn't see the original one as I've just discovered solder seal. Seriously considering it for my Techs doing Church and School AVL installs.
These work fantastic in tight quarters and at odd angles where you aren't given enough wire length to begin with. I don't rely on the solder to make the electoral connection. I always twist the wires together. That way the solder really only has to mechanically lock the strands together. You'll have to have a DLRO resistance tester to measure resistance that low. Like is used checking electric motors.
Its great to see RUclipsrs really take note of comments and go out to address some of the issues, thank you for taking the time to do this. I play in the amateur radio world and spend a lot of my time out in the field portable. If I have a power line break, or any other simple wire break, then I have used the all on one jobs no problems. The pull test shows that there is bonding within the joint, but the amount of pulling shown on your video will never happen in my case but a really good example of what can be achieved. The other area they are really handy is in confined spaces. If I have to put a power lead through the bulkhead, rather than deconstruct the plug, just snip the wires and quickly join them again, easy. Great vlog and again, thanks for sharing.
id love to know what brand of connectors are being used? Can someone please link them if they are good? ALSO- would tinning the wires first with a low temp solder help the bond i wonder??
Good video. Do you know if there is a US distributor for the solderseal brand connectors? Shipping overseas to the US would probably double the cost of a small box of these connectors?
Just wired my boat with these and heat shrink. Rosin core flux and thin diameter solder wrapped around your splice help these out tremendously. The cheap ones i got off Amazon just simply didnt have enough soder for a proper connection.
I bought the knock of box like yours for A$6.00 from Temu they seem to work fine for me, I changed light fittings and cctv connections on the roof and they seem to be holding up well after 6 month in the elements. Plus it was easier using a heatgun while standing on the ladder.
I remember trying these things out about 45 years ago, when I was still in the Air Force. We were given quite a few of them to try in the shop. All of us were impressed, and saw great potential in them. We used heat guns to melt the solder/shrink the wrap. Never had an issue with continuity, and the speed of use, compared to soldering wires together could make or break an aircraft performing it's mission.
I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU DID THIS TEST THE WAY YOU DID!! SPECIALLY AFTER ALREADY HAVING DONE THIS TEST ALREADY!!!...
I would have done it the same exact way lol. GREAT DATA! 👍 👌 thank you!!
Im a motorbike rider and i used to carry a small bag with a solder iron flux heat shrink and solder just in case it was ever needed. I found my gas soldering iron would be empty when eventually i pulled it out the bike for other jobs this lead to me carrying a can of gas as well. I was recently given a pack of these by a mechanic and instead of carrying a small bag i carry a small mint tin with a mix of these and a mini blowtorch lighter. I ride a honda st1300 which is super reliable so the tools and bits i carry are usually in case a mate breaks down
I had a mate that used a bare flame by his bike. It ignited the petrol fumes, we dropped the bike and watched it go up in flames. For us it was the funniest thing we ever saw but for him it was a total disaster because he wasn’t supposed to be out on the bike and he had to go home and show his dad 😂. Don’t use naked flames near motorbikes you are asking for trouble.
What is the name of the Irish brand of Solder Seal? That link in the description does not work. Thanks!
I bought the knock-offs and couldn't get the solder to flow at all without burning the shield. I did try a lower setting (heat gun) on another piece and it took forever to get the insulator to shrink and the solder did not appear to flow at all. I kept them on anyway because I was getting signal through them by virtue of twisted wires. I assumed the solder was going to be the lower heat type and easy to flow. Disappointing experience for me.
I have to ask. In the first vid you were pointing at your soldering station like it cost less than those knock off connectors. When the one on your amazon kickback list doesn't even have adjustable temp or an actual station it's just a bunch of individual pieces. How much was the solder station on your work bench?
A full solder station is going to run $50 and up, but to do basic soldering, like soldering two wires together a full station with adjustability isn’t necessary. I have a full station because I do a lot of work soldering components to boards which needs the variability.
Thank you so much for both of these videos. You certainly didnt deserve nastiness for trying to present useful first-person information. Good to know that there's a difference in product quality.
Having just done a minor bit of auto wiring, I can appreciate the benefits of soldered connections versus crimping. The portability issue can be important to those of us who live in apartments and don't have a ready source of AC power at their vehicles. That makes these attractive, and you've provided a good practical look at them.
Thanks honest review! the originals are a thousand times better than the knock off's it ok when you're just want to do a quick solder away from electric power they work, but buy the originals!
Exactly, I’ve been much happier with the originals. Still prefer using a soldering iron, but these still come in handy.
Also being smaller and more compact, especially if working under dash.. the connectors make sure a drip of molten metal also does not land on your hand or face.
I'm soldering under the dash of my 71 Scamp. For the time being, I just soldered the connections for the flasher relay with a soldering iron. SUCH A PAIN!!! No real place to support the wires, unless I grew a third arm and hand, and am seriously considering the solder sleeves with the butane heatgun(?).
I found myself using thin wires to tie up the wire to be soldered and with not much room, was successful but there was always the chance of touching another wire with the soldering iron, which is never good.
I just watched both of your videos back-to-back, and appreciate you retesting the sleeves. Makes me feel much more comfortable especially in those hard to reach areas.
I'm not a yoga master and trying to use a soldering iron lying on my back is NO fun at all while arching my lower back across the door sill plate lol
Thank you, Sir, and nice work!
P.S.
Do you have an item description or link for the ORIGINAL solder sleeves?
Thanks!
for that kind of in-place soldering you can make or buy a mini junction holding jig. Picture a x "C" with 90-degree bends and heavy alligator clips on each end.
you need to heat the wires first , dip in flux , then twist then sleeve then heat , as with all soldering it depends on the wire , some wires don’t like solder
Using flux on the wire will make the solder flow and stick better. It looks like the solder you are using has a rosin core; the test is not an "apples-to-apples" comparison.
I do like the one-stop solder and heat shrink versus having to do a two-step (solder and then heat shrink) method. Since I am going to do a lot of outdoor wiring, I will give this a try.
I have noticed the solder not going all shiny as well i think its juat an oxide layer that says i do doubt they get the wire hot enough to bond but they seem fine
Have used them a lot, they are very good if you have the space to maneuver your heat source around the connection hovever often you will be using them to repair wires in cramped spaces then they are rubbish.
Problem is that too much heat will burn though the plastic tube and getting to heat the rear side is not always possible (example. headlight wiring on cars)
the best ones ive used are the TE / raychem ones but they are dumb-expensive. like a dollar each. ive found that the key to success with these products is to use a shorter exposed section than you would normally. no more than double the width of the solder band.
TE Connectivity are definitely the better ones I've used as well. You can get them on Mouser for much cheaper though, as pricing is for 100 per unit. So about 3.10 bucks for a pack of 100.
I have used the knock off solder seal connectors for years in my service van and trailer, mainly for the reason I didn't need to drag out a cord and everything needed for a true solder connection. Yes convionounse over longevity. On emergency repairs the cordless heat gun is readily available. One of the other people mentioned and I will also state, I am not looking for a 100% water tite seal just keeping water from making direct contact. hoping it will either evaporate off or freeze solid before it works its way in.
Now if I was making connections for a boat trailer or something in direct contact with water I certainly would make sure it was 100% water tight, but yet serviceable.
As far as the connectivity being a issue I cant say it was a problem with the company, but a error on my part. I will buy the tur solder seal product on my next purchase but I am well stocked for a while. In a couple of years there will be something even better on the market to replace even this product...
Now if someone could invent a better long-term grounding connection for trucks and tailers I am interested? Always an issue....
When I worked at GE in the harness department, we used solder sleeve connections exclusively.
The went on military aircraft and would experience a lot of vibration and worked fine.
How about doing a moisture resistance test?
I spent too many hours to mention a couple winters ago experimenting with these solder seal butt connectors. My conclusions?
1)They work better and the solder penetrates better if you put a dab of flux on the joint before putting the connector over the joint.
2)The quality of the joint using the solder seal butt connectors varies with the brand.
3)To get the solder to melt/wick you have to be right on the verge of melting the insulation. Obviously not good.
4)Solder seal connectors will work in a pinch but I would not trust them for a permanent repair in a harder to access area.
It appears that the link to the genuine solder seals has expired or the web address has changed.
When I was still working as an engineer and project manager, the old saying was Quality, Cost and Time, you only get to pick two. These solder sleeves save time, but at the sacrifice of both cost and quality. If cost and quality don’t matter to you and you just want a quick joint, than have at it. I won’t use these for any connection that really matters. For a quick and dirty connection on something I plan to sell within a year, then maybe.
Lots of folks have said connectors of this type are used extensively in aviation. If they are approved for aviation, there must have been a lot of testing for quality of connection.
@@dansanger5340 They aren't approved in aviation. In fact, AC 43.13-1B, acceptable methods, techniques and practices, Chapter 11, Section 13, paragraph 11-167 with the most recent revision doesn't even allow for any solder joints in aircraft wiring. The previous revision accepted solder joints but did not recommend them. The current revision doesn't allow them at all. The favored method of splicing wiring on aircraft is a self insulated butt splice connector (heat shrinkable butt splice connector). Non-insulated butt splice connectors are accepted when used with heat shrink sheathing and double walled heat shrink (aka: environmentally sealed splice) is required for applications where moisture is a concern. This is all for aviation but for non-aviation use the best way to connect two wires is to use a double walled, marine grade butt splice connector with a ratcheting crimping tool. The heat shrink has sealing glue (the double wall aspect) that melts and makes an air-tight seal around the butt splice connector.
im a farmer. in the places i have to join two happy electrode highways i dont have the benefit of plug-in electrical power. ive been using these on boats, trailers, my trucky, farm equipment, security systems, etc. etc. so far so good, plus its easy to use.
You should consider doing a test with the te/raychem version. They are amazing, although a bit expensive. They are qualified for use in aircraft and munitions.
Yep. The old Raychem series (now part of TE) are awesome. We use them all the time on military projects.
I realize that it wouldn't be as convenient. But, would it be a good idea to tin the wires before using the solder seal connectors? I'm guessing that this would just add to the strength of the connection.
If your tinning the wires, just solder them with the iron. You’ll have a better bond.
So a year later, anyone know where to get the original brand? The website is not working.
Good video. Only issue I have is you have to decide “to stache or not to stache because when your sponsor break came on, I was like “now who the hell is this goofball?! Lol
My facial chair changes like the seasons….
First time on your channel. To me u did well proving a strong connection, but will it hold a seal again water and moisture?
Have you tested thick to thin wire .
I love having these Solder shrink wraps In my shop for the few times a year, I solder wires. It would be different if I was using them often. I find that it’s actually encourages me to solder the wires rather than just wrap and use black tape. So while you’re comparing it to our proper soldering, I’m comparing it to a twist and tape. L O L so in my situation, it’s always preferable to use the solder wraps.
Loved your response to the nasty commentors... "Hi..??" Excellent response. So much negativity when people are hiding behind their keyboard. I didn't think you were unfair in the first video, my only comment on that one would have been to set your camera to manual focus and focus it yourself so it doesn't keep shifting the focus. I found these incredibly helpful as I had also seen these connectors all over the place and kept wondering if they were really all that good, or if we were being bamboozled. I'm in the middle of a restoration project on an older Jeep CJ-5, and it's getting close to the point where the electrical work will be starting so I really am glad I found your review. Seemed to me you took pains to be honest and open, and I thank you for that.
Thank you for the kind words!
You need a low resistance ohm meter and also a load test,
For comprehensive test and inspect, purposes,
Did you happen to ever check the resistance of the knockoffs? Since you melted them better in this video I wish you'd have checked the resistance of them.
need to pick up one these STANDS - well done!
I use the Amazon ones, haven't really noticed a difference in quality but what it does allow me to do is make a permanent repair thats water proof. So for working on powersports stuff, it's my go to for repairing wire. Otherwise, it's heat shrink, soldier working in super limited space, only 1 hand to hold wire. With these guys, its strip it back slide one on, make the mechanical splice, sleeve it and heat. All done.
The ohmmeter was off the scale for the yellow wire and for both of the red wires. It was very close to full scale for the first wire you checked too, so all we saw is that the resistance was less with the conventional joint, but couldn't see how much less it was.
It's not good practice to take readings on any instrument at more than 90% of full scale or less than 10% of full scale.
I'm also curious what the results using the soldering sleeves might be but applying some solder flux to the wires before sliding the sleeve on and then heating it?
Do you think it may cause more solder penetration throughout the splice?
I agree. Next time I will use flux.
I skipped right to this video from your last one without watching it. Thanks.
Hope you enjoyed it!
Horses for courses. I mostly do not need tensile strength in the automotive where I use the solder seal connectors. But, ease of use is high on priority. In some more demanding where access is easier, I join wires, push solder seal away as far as possible tin and solder with solder iron, let cool and slide back the solder seal connector and as normal. The heat in the latter process is sufficient to melt the SSWC solder but not sufficient to effect the original solder. The old solder method also creates a definite break in solder penetration furthest away from the solder. In cases where you have a lot of wire flex, e,g, motorcycle handles the likelihood of concentrated stress points in the wire is greater. Choose appropriately for the best of both worlds.
A lithger will probably work in a pinch but i don't like using a lighter for heat shrink or anything because the flame is so sote
Great Video, Thank You for Your Time!
I used a so-called premium version off Amazon, and sadly had the same result as your first video. Using a heat gun simply did not melt the solder very well, and the heat shrink ends darned near burned and still no good solder flow. I question whether these things are better than crimp connectors. I know in my heart that they are not better as an old school solder joint.
Again, I thank you for your time.
Solder quality matters
These don’t work for me test pulling they come right apart Idk what I’m doing wrong here but I’ll be using but connectors was worth a shot but the solders not going all the way through on my connection.
The adhesive must of been not as strong on some pieces I imagine they make the “glue” in one big batch so it may have variation to effectiveness
You need an apples to apples comparison. The solder seal connections also provide you with an insulator around the joint, which is waterproof in one step. Standard soldering requires you to have heat-shrink tubing to apply over the soldered connection using a heat gun or other heat source, so it is an extra step
Valid point, but it takes me seconds to throw a piece of shrink wrap on my solders.
I would worry once amps are applied they might cause the low temp soldier to give way.
Thanks for your super detailed video - one observation however: when measuring resistance through a joint, keep your fingers away from the wires and DVOM leads....why? Your body has a large resistance and so your measurement will be inaccurate.
If the joint is correctly soldered there must be NO/MINIMUM resistance recorded . Happy day!
Who taught you to check resistance like that ?? You cant have your body in the circuit. When you hold the wire to the meter contacts with your fingers you will get the same reading by putting a thumb on each contact The meter can read across your shoulders .
A better comparison would be with a crimped joint than soldered joint that you put three inches of solder into
Nice comparison but the resistance test is a bit flawed. The ohmmeter you are using is not capable of measuring micro-ohms or mili-ohms. If you don’t have a DLRO (digital low resistance ohmmeter), measuring voltage drop across the splice while under a known load is the best way to determine resistance. Use ohms law, R= V/A to calculate resistance. (DLRO uses a 4 wire kelvin bridge to do the same thing)With that said, others have completed this test and only found a few mili-ohms variance in resistance between the solder seal connectors and a conventional solder joint. Even with the lack of solder through the joint. One can calculate the wattage across the joint and do a relative comparison of generated heat at the splice joint. Watts = A*V. Typically just a few watts difference between the types of joints, not enough to matter. In most situations, the solder seal connecter is fine for the loads they are designed for. Where one would get into trouble with solder seal connectors is under high current loads but the conductor sizes that are compatible with solder seal connectors aren’t capable of high current loads. Over current protection would open the circuit. Areas with high ambient heat, engine compartments, enclosed electronics, etc, could present an issue. High heat will increase resistance and effectively create more heat in the joint. If running max amperage through a conductor in a hot environment, the joint could potentially fail. As a reliability engineer, would I allow solder seal connectors to be used in less critical applications with light loads, Yes. In a critical application that might result in equipment damage, downtime or injury, No.
@farmerjim-fat-man-do First, I have to say it's nice to see a comment as long or even longer than I would usually make... I cop so much grief for them but I like detail.
To your point... The meter was at full scale for the first wire and actually off scale for the next three wires, so would a super low reading meter be any use? I don't know what the scale was but I doubt the resistance was in the micro ohm range for those wires even without any joint in them.
Also, isn't the resistance independent of the load? A higher load will suffer a larger voltage drop for any given resistance, but as long as you're not causing significant heating, the resistance in ohms will be the same for a half amp load and a 5A load... with or without a joint in the wire.
Also, the purpose was to see which gave a lower resistance, as opposed to determining the exact resistance. The meter being at or beyond full scale prevented that comparison, a fact of which he seems to be unaware, but other than that, wouldn't a simple meter with sufficiently high range enable such a comparison, even if it may not be within 10% of the true value?
Why no resistance test on the alleged 'knock-off' solder seals?
I was more concerned about weather these were a good alternative to soldering, but your right, I should have tested the knock offs as well.
The resistance test is a waste of time. Once the stranded wires are intertwined, the ohm reading is going to be zero without any solder. No difference than touching the meter leads together, especially using a non-TRMS meter.
I use a version of these at work. We only use the smallest 3 and use an electric 240v heat gun. No burning with the heat gun, and the ones we use are just as quick.
If you want a good joint, don't use a flame. We also don't twist them together. It's just a straight job with one on to of the other.
I know it's a Yank thing... but please remember there's an L in soLder! It's not sodder 😅 bit you do miss the i out of aluminium.
'Solder' is pronounced 'sodder,' genius. Either be very, very quiet, or become educated.
Here's another one: go back to the meat packing plant, petro- chemical or other such nonsense and sweep your designated floor areas.
You gotta heat it up slowly can't blast it with a torch and hold it in 1 spot will burn the shrink tube before heat will transfer
Authentic ones have low melt rosin core solder, the other ones do not.
You've got the right idea but that end, on your heat gun, does not center the heat on the solder part of the connector. Youneed to rotate the joint and center the heat on the solder. It should flow around the wire. With the diveertor it will heat the insulation too much before the solder melts. Thanks for the location of these heat shrink connectors. The cheap ones are useless.
One thing that still makes this test unfair is the amount of solder on each joint. You have a certain amount of solder in the solder seal but you can keep putting solder on your own joint until you see full penetration. Next time take the solder out of the solder seal and weight it and use the same amount on your own joint. I realize the whole point is to show that one way is better but if you're going to do a stress test fairly. Also when using the solder seal try using a tooth pick to put some flux inside of the solder ring. Nice video though.
Doing it the way you suggested makes the test unfair. This test shows the difference between the solder seal and a properly soldered joint. If the solder seal doesn’t contain enough solder to properly solder a joint this demonstrates that. Being able to add solder until the joint has been properly soldered together demonstrates a flaw with the solder seal. This also demonstrates that the solder seal lacks significant flux. In a real world application no one is going to be pulling out tooth pics and adding flux to the inside of the seal. What your suggesting would be giving the solder seal an unfair and impractical advantage.
You were probably unaware of the drama that goes along with this subject. There are some really lame people who have their method, and are very quick to tell you you're doing it wrong, and you're an irresponsible person for doing it the way you are.
If you want the solder to flow better, pre-flux the bare wires before inserting into connector
Moustache power 😂. Oh that got me 😂🤣😂
Nice video! Thank you!
thanks so much🤩👍❗
Regarding solderseal, you said "...these are the authentic ones not the knock off ones...". But solderseal's ARE knockoffs. So you previously tested knockoffs of knockoffs. The original and authentic ones are Raychem, now owned by TE Connectivity.
Personally, I would never use them for any wire larger than 18ga.
I just wanted to point out that soldering is not the best way for all applications, for a example, high vibrations because it makes the wire hard and can literally break off. I prefer to use uninsulated nickel plated copper connectors and heat shrink
That’s pretty cool 😎 thanks for sharing
Very good video.
Wheatstone Bridge!
Nasty comments...Hi.... ha ha! That's great.
good luck with that soldering iron when you're a hundred miles from nowhere with only a cigarette lighter.
You mean my butane soldering iron? It works just fine a hundred miles from nowhere.
So the reason use soldeeseal type is because I can't solder even if my life depended on it. Being able to solder the traditional method takes a lot of practice and experience which I just don't have. I'm sure pros that do this for a living have the skills to solder and make it the best connection possible)e.
On the flipside is someone like moi. Who isn't a professional and only need to solder from time to time as need arise. There's no way I can solder like a pro . So solderseals makes it easy for me to tackle these needs that Come up every once in a while.
do not touche the both meter pins bare handed. you get foulty meassuring
A small amount of flux would make the difference.
And you can't buy the name brand anymore. Site is sort of there but in offline mode.
Your bias lol your just sad that a dumb cheap connector renders your big fancy soldering skills useless 😅 your first video almost turned me off of these great little things. Thanks for the follow up vid. Great job 👏
The sad thing people now days think soldering skills are something big and fancy….
@@DoItYourselfDad he was quite obviously joking. but aside from him, where are all the people that think that? I genuinely don't know one single person..
Unless you were joking too
You shouldn’t be twisting the wires together to get a good seal
Im not sure why you thought the multimeter would be useful
It's fine! What r ya worried about? Haha
Dude, you can't effectively measure resistance of a wire with a simple, non-digital multimeter! Basically all you're going to see is if there's some kind of connection. You would have gotten the same reading even if only one single strand of the wire was touching one other strand, not even being soldered. So the resistance test, the way you did it, was completely without value. You would actually need something that could measure down to thousandths of an ohm or less if you really wanted to compare the efficacy of the solder seal connectors. And the value of these things is going to totally be determined by what the wire is being used for. Is it an automotive wire, where all you're doing is routing 12 Volts from one place to another without a lot of Amps? In that case these things are probably perfect. You just need a decent electrical connection, and one that won't come apart. Or is it something where the wire will be conducting a lot of Amps, like I frequently do with r/c motors? (Maybe 50 to 120 Amps.) In that case it has to have a near perfect connection that can handle the Amps and not melt. (I really question if these connectors would be good for that purpose.) Or is it in some electronic circuit carrying high frequency signals? You probably won't use these there either but in such a case it absolutely must not have a "cold" or crystalized solder joint. So testing should really be in relation to where it will be used.
And just as an aside, resistance is not actually bad. It's a necessary element in electronic circuits. It's only bad when you have too little or too much in the wrong place or for the wrong purpose.
you're still not doing it correctly. You twist the wires together not just push it together. Also, you have to move the heat around, so you don't overheat in one spot.
old but great vidieo :)
Weird my solder melts within seconds
lol you never retested the knockoffs
I understand that people want this to be the answer. but it is not. you need to understand the difference between cold solder and solder used to make reliable connections. these are effectively dry joints and they will crack. Resistance tested over a few cm is never an indication either. Do not use in a car. Solder doesn't belong in car wiring looms.
A ratchet crimper and a kit of 459 U shaped butt splice crimps is a much better and cheap option. About $30 for hundreds