BMW E60 M5 Warm Up
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this video we take a look at why it’s important to warm up your S85 engine properly to avoid issues down the line, and the process I use to warm up the M5.
Let me know in the comments below on how you go about warming up your M5/M6.
If you found the video interesting don’t forget to give it a like, and be sure to subscribe to my RUclips channel for more M5 content.
Thanks for watching!
All local road rules where followed in this video 
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I literally drive a Vauxhall here in the U.K. and I do this. Unimaginable that people wouldn’t have mechanical sympathy for a V10
Exactly!
Good advice, I do the same but definitely wait for the cold start procedure to finish before driving off.
Good stuff, sounds like most owners that care about their M5/M6 follow a variation of the procedure
@@MTechGuy ya, its great learning from you and forums ! this engine is a masterpiece ! and will be very collectible one day
Diddo, I wait for the cool warm up procedure to be completed then proceed exactly as M tech guy has explained for my 09' E63. Love you tech work advance coming from the Windy city of Chicago
@@craig1000 Great stuff, thanks for watching!
In my owners manual it says to drive immediately but moderate when cold. I usually wait a minute or 2 though before driving off. And its funny this warm up procedure is the same as mine, block 1 for transmission speed and 400hp mode until fully warm lol.
As much as I love listening to my S85 at high revs, cold starts are just as good. S85s have a very unique metallic sound. If time permits, I get out and listen to all my cold starts. The bucking and idle all over the place during cold start are just amazing to me. After about a minute or so, she comes down and purrs like a kitten. S85 owners understand. That said, proper warm up procedure should be followed to the letter. What a machine.
Great comment- Me too! 😁
Haha I do the same thing ❤
As a fellow m5 owner I concur !
I start my car and maybe wait enough time to pick the music. Then, I am just like you keeping it under 3,000 RPM until it’s at 200-210. I never thought to do the auto mode. I have always used the manual mode, but I love the extra security/ safety that you said the auto mode offers. Might try tomorrow.
I did tune my transmission and it shifts a lot smoother.
Replaced my thermostats a few months ago.
Great help and thank you!
Sounds like you’ve got it well sussed out. It’s always good to get a fresh thermostat in these cars. Thanks for watching!
What’s transmission tune did you go with if you don’t mind me asking?
Good morning. Thats what I do all the time 👍👍. Good advice and explanation. The engine is like a human muscle.. before you train hard you have to warm up. Tanks for all those contents in your videos.
Good advice. Thank you for checking out the channel and watching 👍
Love the video! I have a e64 with 52k on the clock. Like others I am afraid of rod bearings and Vanos but after watching your channel, I now have the knowledge and confidence to own this vehicle. This car was a dream car for me when it first came out. Thank you so much for making these videos! Keep em coming!
That’s great to hear. Thanks for watching!
Have been just letting it idle to warm up. Good to hear a better way
2nd time out in my e60 m5 I wormed her up and instantly got flashed for speeding 3 points and a fine 🤷♂️I will worm her up slowly from now on ❤fantastic video 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯 just waiting for letter from D.V.L.A 😢
I’ve commented on this so many times overs the years because of the tight tolerances in this engine ... this is the reason why the negative comments over the years have dominated the forums .... the scaremongers love this , if only they new the reason of engine failure was caused by thrashing these engines when cold as simple as that .... the problem we have is boy racers with lemonade money running a champagne car as a daily runner skipping services but dropping it off with dodgy john for a full service for a ton 🤦♂️😎👍🇬🇧
Exactly, you’ve hit the nail on the head there Steve 👍🇬🇧
@@MTechGuy .. I’m glad you agree because it winds me up when these scaremongers that have never owned one or driven one dish out negative information as if they’ve had this car for years ...🥴
There’s certainly a lot of misinformation out there about these cars. It’s a completely different story when you know what’s true and what isn’t
@@MTechGuy ... so true 👌
It’s all about looking after the car properly, and living within your means. As long as you can afford to maintain & repair it properly, or carry out jobs yourself within your ability, buy the parts required without braking the bank, and don’t thrash it from cold then it’s all good.
Here in NZ diesels aren’t really any cheaper to run than petrol vehicles due to diesel road user charges
I always warm up my e63 2 to 3 min b4 I drive off. A good indicator is when the I drive system becomes fully functional and you hear the engine turn down. Then you are good to go. I then drive a few blocks before I hit 3,000 rpm's. Being that I live in the city, I hardly ever have room enough to feel the need to press the 'M' button. My beast has 126k on the odometer and runs like a dream. My indy advised me not to replace the rod bearings because the car has been so well taken care of. I use Liqui Moly oil (10/60). It has always been changed on or b4 6k miles. My indy also adds a lubricant to the oil pan b4 the change.
The manual says: Do not allow the engine to warm up by leaving it running while the vehicle remains stationary. Instead, begin to drive at a moderate engine speed.
As I asked BMW a while ago they told me the oil pressure is higher (lubrication) while driving and it is warming up quicker.
I prefer to rev not higher then 3000 rpm the first 5-10 minutes. Depends on the temperature outside. By 90 degress celsius its time to rev higher :)
I’ve never felt comfortable revving the engine up immediately to drive away from stone cold, I give it a minute or two before driving off but essentially allowing to get the car up to temperature while driving at lower revs (approx 10 mins)
Exactly what I do in my E60 M5
.. drive off with minimal load, shifting through gears nice and early. Has the advantage of warming the gearbox and differential at the same time
Great video, I've found your channel really useful as an M5 owner here in the UK, especially during lockdown:-)! I've got a couple of maintenance and repair jobs coming up soon and wondered if you have any videos for them. First is changing front brake discs and pads, second is fixing or replacing the sunroof as mine is jammed open and the reset procedure won't complete, it remains tilted left and right. Anyway thanks for videos, keep them coming.
Thanks man, glad you’ve found some value in them! No current videos on front brake discs & pads- they where fairly new when I got the car. No videos on the sunroof so far, I’ll maybe have to do one in the near future! Try cleaning the tracks, make sure the wind deflector goes down when it should and the glass isn’t hitting it. Try manually winding it with the tool out the boot, check that the motor gear isn’t broken too while you have the cover off 👍
Almost similar procedure in warming up. 1-2 mins until the rev goes down. I manually drive it to 2 - 2.5k rpm on level 3 SMG. I might try your auto procedure, seems more convenient.
I shift mine below 3,000 rpm (Mine is a 6-speed manual) and try to keep the load as low as possible until the oil comes up to temp, and then wait a few more mins to allow the crank and bearings to warm up fully as well, then I gradually increase the rpm and load.
Good plan, sounds like you are taking good care of your V10!
I dont own an e60 or e63(yet:) but i still warm my car up i usually let it idle for around 30 secs just to get the oil running after driving of i dont go above 2 k rvs but thats not hard cuz its a diesel
Btw liked the vid seing that theres people actually taking care of their cars
It’s good practice with any car, and even more so with an S85. Goon on ya for looking after your own BMW properly 👍
Hi, i do the same as you did in the video except i use manual gear skift due to i dont want to start in 2:nd gear as the car do in auto level 1.
Thanks again for your videos👍👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
A bit late but this is pretty much my procedure! However, I never use D mode. Personal preference I suppose but I always use the paddles. Do you think this is ok or is it easier on the cold gearbox in D mode? I change around 2.5k until it’s warmed up… great video again as always mate appreciate it 👍
Cheers Nar-Kotix, D or manual is fine. I find the gearbox itself take s 2-3 mins to warm up, and it shifts better in D1 just because of the clutch slippage involved. As long as you’re shifting at 2.5K or less until the oils up to temp, it’s all good 👍 Thanks for checking out the video
@@MTechGuy thanks for the reply. I’ve been watching for a while and today is the day I brave the oil change, again thanks to your video!
Awesome man, that’s great to hear! Good place to start with an oil change. Keep at it brother 👍
Just had to completely replace the engine in my 2011 128i (E87) because rod bearing No. 6 malfunctioned. Take engine warm up seriously, as I wish I had, because it may just end up costing you a lot of money.
That sucks man. I’ve just bought an E87 130i (same engine) it’s a pre-face lift so doesn’t have the oil temp gauge. Yes, it’s no good thrashing it from cold!
well done ! great tips
Thanks for watching Chris!
You should not be "lugging" that engine below 2,000 rpm because that also puts excessive stress on the conrod bearings. Especially when it is cold.
Thanks bro!
No worries, thanks for watching
Another great video, thanks man! Have plans to change the rod bearings on mine as a preventive measure and have obtained some quotes, ranging from USD 8000 to 3500 (converted from Norwegian currency). One shop claims that changing the rod bearings, according to "factory guidelines", is a 45 hour (!) job. Another that it is "a day's work" for an experienced mechanic. So I'm wondering, what are the facts here? What is "going price" for changing the rod bearings around the world? (I would not mind driving the car to Germany or Poland, or anywhere else in Northern Europe, to save a few thousand dollars and have this as a good "excuse" for going on a road trip with the car!). :-)
Thanks man, sounds like a good plan getting the rod bearings changed out 👍
There are different ways of doing the job so that’s why prices will vary so much. I’d say it’s a 12-14hr job dropping the subframe and working underneath (vs pulling the engine out) so a two day labour + parts quote wouldn’t be unreasonable. Find a shop that is familiar with these cars, they will be the most efficient and get your HP VANOS hose replaced at the same time!
@@MTechGuy That's the plan. Thanks!
I do absolutely same thing before thrashing it. Have you got your rod bearings changed it or any plans on doing em?
Nice one. They where replaced along with the VANOS hp line by the car dealer when I bought the car
thank you
Thanks for checking out the video man
Great advice, my car drives so much better when it’s warmed up
I have had the bearings changed and never thrash the car on cold so I know my bearings should be looked after
Regular oil changes as well
What oil do you use?
Good plan with the new bearings! Always used Castrol supercar 10w60. My rod bearings where replaced when i bought the car
Hi, thanks for great videos, what oil weight do you use, and what do you recommend i just bought one 2008 with 40k miles any recommendations? Thank you
Nice! 10W60 fully synthetic, Castrol supercar is my go to- ruclips.net/video/HdbOHiAnmOc/видео.html
Congrats on the new M5 😎
I do the same procedure. own a 2010 lci m6/ 57k miles
That’s great to hear you’re looking after your coupe properly 👍
Good video! I have a question, now in the winter time i obv dont drive my M5, but should i park her in N or D? Some people say N and some say D, in the summer i always park her in N with ebrake on, but now when i dont drive whats better for the gearbox? Thanks
Thanks! We’re coming into summer here in NZ. Normally I park in in N with the hand brake on. If it’s on a slope, I use the hand brake and leave it in gear (D or R depending on which way the car is facing on the slope)
If your car will be sat over winter for some time- leave the hand brake off and the gearbox in N, but chock the wheels so the car can’t roll either way
@@MTechGuy Got it! Cheers mate
Looking to get one of this as a weekend car, still reasonable in 2022?
Yes, absolutely
@@MTechGuy thanks for your response! I am a full DIYer and I owned a couple german cars before and now as well, question is, how DIY friendly is this car and affordable are the parts? Just curious!!! Thanks in advance!!!
@@josearroyo4575 Not too bad to work on, but parts can be expensive
Hi, judging by the road signs i’m guessing your in New Zealand. Any issues with getting parts shipped/finding any garages willing to work on the major shit? Cheers
Good guess, yes NZ. I order most of my parts from North America, or go to the BMW dealer if I’m in a hurry. I do most of the work on the car myself, and it goes to BMW for WOF’s etc 👍
@@MTechGuy cool another M5 in NZ, where are you at?
@@JunYamog Christchurch
Oil literally takes 3 seconds to get upto pressure so you're fine to drive away as soon as you've started the engine and put your belt on
Cheers George, these engines do build oil pressure quickly- approx. 5 bar for the engine oil & 115 bar for the VANOS, but in order to allow the thick 10W60 to flow properly it’s worth giving it a minute or two (have you ever heard an S85 engine running from stone cold?) You can 100% feel the the difference when you take off too- driving straight away vs after a minute
Some engine builders in the US recommend 5w50 oil and a different thermostat
I hear/ read that a lot. Have you done this?
The recommended Castrol 10W60 oil and OEM thermostat function really well
Sreten (Mr M539) uses 5w50 in his. And IIRC it is popular with guys at The Ring, particularly Porsche GT3s
I always ran Castrol 10w60 in my e61 and at 105,000 the last oil test was good.
Always let the revs settle to 600rpm then moved off gently in D so second gear and left it in D.
Always waited until the rpm rings had moved round and the temp needle stabilised.
Everybody wants to drive a super car before buying but it’s best the see how the owner drives it first.
Hi pal i have question my car e60 m5 2007
My car on cold start seems like a misfire i feel it like 3 shakes and thats all and on cold start the the revs go up and down and again up and down any advice ?
Could be any number of contributing factors, but if the spark plugs haven’t been done for a while a new set should smooth things out
Cold start is what destroys the rod bearings. You really are not prevent rod bearing damage by allowing the engine to warm up. It is because these cars left the factory, with very tight bearing clearances, especially for the weight of oil that is being used.
The cold start applies to areas or countries with colder climates. However, it is the initial start, the first minute or so, is where the damage occurs.
Allowing the engine to warm up, to prevent damage to the bearings is not going to do anything. After 30 secs or so, the oil pump begins to do its job, pumping oil everywhere, however the bearings suffer from lack of lubrication.
Get the rod bearings done, change the weight of oil, to 5w50. There are numerous forums, and many engine experts suggesting change the oil spec.
Allowing the engine to warm up will not save your rod bearings. Change the oil spec. 10w60 is way too thick, for the bearing clearances.
If you rev an S85 engine out without the oil being up to temp it will cause excessive wear to your rod bearings.
10W60 is used for its strength under load.
My warm up is 5w50 oil
I wait 10 minutes before I drive my m6 is that a bad thing?
Not the end of the world but can cause condensation up inside your engine if done regular. Just give it a couple of minutes then take it steady until the oil is warmed up
@@MTechGuy how about abs pump is it hard to do?
Not a big job, it lives behind the front left wheel well. You’ll need the right software to bleed it after fitting
@@MTechGuy I can’t replace it whit out coding?
Will need coding if it’s the complete unit is being replaced
What country/region is this recorded ? South Africa ?
South Island, New Zealand
Additives like zx1 do they help protect the internals of a v10 from excessive wear ?
No more than using a decent modern synthetic engine oil. I wouldn’t advise using additive with these engines
@@MTechGuy yeah I’ve used zx1 on different cars last 10years, but for some reason I’m afraid to use it on the m5, apparently a 5000cc engine needs 500mls as the far more metal surface in a v10, it bonds to the metal, the oil just a transporter around the engine for the zx1, then next service draining oil the xz1 is still there bonded to the metal in engine, I’m intrigued by the theory of it
@@ivanmoore75 I use ceratec of liqui molly both our M5 and Cayenne. There is anecdotal evidence it helps in Cayenne bore scorch issue. Putting ceratec definitely makes both v10 and V8 engines a lot quieter after 100km of use. I have also seen someone who used ceratec that replaced his rod bearings and it wasn’t too bad. I have new rod bearings now, continue to use ceratec through my ownership.
@@JunYamog I must search that brand, any other engine I’d use zx1 but this v10 I’m too scared 😆 unless I know it’s been tried before, but I will search what you are using, thanks bro
@@ivanmoore75 Liqui Moly are good oil manufacturers, they also sell oil with this additive pre-mixed but this oil is not available to me locally. The sound reduction is enough to make me spend for our V10 and V8 cars
How do you get the oil temp reading in your center screen like that?
The oil temp gauge is found in the lower portion of the rev counter
I don’t think mine has it it’s a 2010. I’ve never seen a digital oil temp reading displayed before