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237,000 miles on my 330ci .. $17K purchase price with 60K miles on it. since then, over 11 years, $25K in repairs. Find a good private non-dealer garage. Fit an aluminium CSR radiator, alu water pump and mechanical thermostat, or pay for a new system 4 times like me. All the electrics need swapping at 150K miles. 15,000 mile oil changes worked, and an 80% GM transmission fluid swap at 100K was worth it. 11 years and less than $4k per year - cheap so long as you are invested. The subframe goes south at 300K - so that's as much as you'll get. That said - every hour I spent in it was fab.

Thanks for the tutorial on this. Just completed the job on my M6 and it was quite the challenge. Access is incredibly difficult if you have larger hands and it’s very fiddly trying to do anything in that area. Got there in the end with one broken hose clip on those larger rubber hoses, but the clip still seems to attach and hold firmly so I reckon I can get away with leaving it. May replace down the track.

Hi mate, mine seems to be all working apart from fan speed, could this be it?

Where is the started located at? I don’t see it.

What is the brightest bulb you can put in 1 series which is legal uk?

Update on the M6 SMG fault and codes. Still the same, Red Cog. I removed the ecu box under the scuttle panel under the bonnet and checked the fuses and relays. I removed the SMG module and checked the multi plug and pins on the module and they look clean. like I said the pump is priming when the doors are unlocked. Pump primes periodically while ignition is on. I have looked at live data. I can see the pump comes in when the pressure drops below 750psi and primes up to 960psi. When in activation mode on the scanner I can select all the gears 1 to 7 and reverse, when I try to activate the selector led lights +/-(D/S) N or R they will not light up also can not activate the shift lever lock or shift lever. its like there is no power to the selector at all does anyone know where the power is supplied from, is it from the SMG control module ?? Anyway brand new battery and new relays on the way so I can definitely rule them out. I have been told it could be the SMG wiring harness as they deteriorate and seen a few videos. The car needs to be lifted to have a look at them. I will go there when I have ruled other things out. Could it be the SMG control unit especially if the wires have shorted, but all fuses look good. Still same codes 5002, 5404, 5400 ??????? HELP required TIA

Hi brother do you advice an 'original' bmw part level sensor for the v10? Or can i use an aftermarket too?!

Ah, thank you so much! Been driving almost a year without the sprayer working... 1 hour later... they working like a charm

My 330 Ci has 245,000 km , , only issues were a replaced coolant reservoir , , and a few weeks ago had an issue with a knocking sound toward the back and turned out that I needed a new Tailshaft Centre Bearing which has been replaced and the Beema is back to perfect , , only thing I would love to happen is to buy an E46 M3 !! . . Will drive this 330 Ci forever, best car I have ever owned, looks . . POWER . . Yes I Dusted off a Subaru WRX at the lights . . 0-100 km in 5.8 following a Dynotune just after I bought it . . You can have your Mercs, Audi's etc etc but at the end of the day give me my 330 Ci . . Very affordable these days if you can find one with under 200,000k's do yourself a favour . . Just sayin' 😂

My vanos developed a sort of whine at low rpm’s. Started happening after I changed out the crush washer on the top feed line. I have already bleed the system and it’s still there. Could this be the solenoids? I’m getting no codes btw

Any tips for getting the rubber boot back in? went to a garage who suggested spraying it and removed the rubber boot for me but they pulled the whole thing out and no garage wants to touch it or tells me i need a whole new column so i'm stuck trying to do it, manage to get most back round the white clip thing but not completely. Forgot to say the spray did fix the squeak on my 17 plate 118i but now stuck with engine noise due to boot not being in properly, if your watching this follow what he says when it comes to the boot as this not being in properly causes a whole load of problems lol and getting this rubber boot back on is harder than it looks.

I have an E60 M5 with 207k miles (334k km), I changed my starter motor at 155k miles (250k km). It was preventative, I replaced it because I was already at the transmission fixing a selector shaft seal leak, so I could access the starter bolts easily. I don't know too many people that have failed starter motors. You CAN change the starter motor by just removing the intake (and thus, not needing to remove the bolts facing the bellhousing) however I only learned this after I already changed my starter motor. Maybe I'll post on my channel someday!

what model is this e46? pre facelift or facelife i dont have any idea but i kinda like those bodykit. im not really familliar with bmw model. maybe you can help me out

Hey sir im looking at one at the moment, its a 2006 bmw m5 with 105k miles looks mint its a blue one he has hes paper work he got the rod bearings done at 75k miles hes asking for 12k

Hello, "M Tech Guy" I was analyzing your channel and saw that in your channel have some problem, That's why your channel is not much growing and not getting much engagement, If you can solve these problems, Your channel will grow like a storm. If you tell I can tell these problems. Where can I tell? Here or ig or where?

Hi need help my 2005 BMW m6 v10 SMG gear selector is not lit up and locked in neutral the car starts but I can't select gears The car starts but I can not select gears as the stick is locked I got the yellow cog on the i drive followed by the red cog and the display message transmission fault The car has been stood for about 6 months. I started it up with a new battery and the fault was on. I removed the battery leads and went back to it next morning put the battery back on started the car and the stick was lit up and I was able to select gears. I drove it back and forwards and selected gears fine. I turned the car off and the fault came back. Tried removing the battery leads again but this time the fault stays on and stick not lit up again and locked in neutral. I can hear the pump priming when I put the ignition on. I scanned the codes I've got (5002 Evaluation, shift lever) (5404 Activation, shift lever led N) (5400 Evaluation, shift lock) could you help thanks.

Thanks!

What are the parameters of just the gas spring? I need just that part.

For the benefit of those watching: If the tailgate does lock while the battery is disconnected, there is an emergency release for the top half; it's a small, dark-grey piece of plastic located on the inner left side of the lower tailgate. Prise it out with a screwdriver and it will pop out on a short plastic cord. Pull on it and the top half will unlock.

My sunroof driver (grey bit) doesn’t slide easily or as far forward as yours Any ideas what I can do?

You are the only one to show how to tell faulty sensor without a code reader! Thanks man!

Are you still in nz . Great to hear that you were. I'm just starting to have shifting issues , but I have a ZF trans . Was wondering about relays . Factory reset lasting a week . I'll see if relays are the same ,or if I even have any cheers . O8 ,e60 525i msport . 5series.

Just completed this job on my 130i as the flex disc was causing vibrations... Upon removal, I discovered one of the previous owners had used a front flex disc on the rear, so the holes were 12mm instead of 10mm, and there were no locating washers on the disc, so it had no chance of being centered. No wonder it had vibrated itself to death. Remember to check your part numbers people...

hello. i have rough shifting on me e60 m5 when cold for like a 200 miles and 4-shift. later it feel fine. maybe someone had this problem. good video 💪

My 1 series pump sprays once then won't spray again for at least 1 hour. After spraying when try again can't even hear the pump engage. Any ideas??

A up guy I can only say one thing about my e60 m5 and it is without doubt? If I hadn't found your vids I would NOT ever had peace of mind to bye one ❤ and I have NEVER looked back 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧 I have now got my e60 m5 and love it to bits ❤️ and it's all down to you 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💖

Hi. Thank you for your interesting reviews. I always watch them with big interest. Please tell me which electric motor brushes are you talking about? What can they be used for?

I was wondering, why the hell our M Tech Guy decided to make content about A/C issues in the middle of a freezing winter, but then I remembered you are from NZ :D Great content as always! I had a similar problem and applied the same fix. Thank you again!

SMG pump motor at 130K miles, starter, yes when I did my Dinan 5.8 last year, it was still working. 2008 LCI.

Great video. I have 52K miles on my 2007 M6. I drive her on weekends in the summer only. Should I replace the SMG motor? What should I look for to check on the SMG motor to help prevent anything catastrophic?

you need to clean that carbon build up and hit some redline my friend

Neither yet, smg and starter still ok after 120k miles. Did blow a clutch slave cylinder, had a clock spring that needed cleaning, a relay that caused a no crank or crank no start, and alternator voltage regulator and a thermostat. Currently diagnosing a complete vanos failure, can't say I'm excited to dive in on that one. Maybe it's the hose, maybe it spit the rod bearings and it's done, haha

I had a few cyl misfire codes a few months back .. I decided to throw a dart and an expensive one at that .. i changed both ionic modules ( very easy to change ) on each bank and it worked ! 2010 63k mi

I heard the complaints about the smg motor and so bought the uprated motor shortly after getting the car, 3 years later they're still in the shed unused. I have had a starter fail at 95k miles. To change it I dropped the front of the subframe to lower the engine so I could get at the 3 bolts. 2 go through the box and in the top center is a smaller bolt. I've known of more failures due to a faulty alternator regulator than motor failure. These things need a really good power supply to keep those gremlins at bay. 👍🏻

yes m5 stuff :) . only failure ive had on my m5 was the yaw rate sensor . every dash light came on , limited gear options no abs etc etc , i replaced the sensor and took the old one apart and it had a dry joint on the actual sensor in the yaw rate unit . my car is a 2006 with 83k miles on it , has the original smg pump motor and starter , it did have a clutch at around 50k but i think it had a hard life in its first 10 years

open her up a bit mate lets hear that s v10 roar

wish i can drive mine ..roads all salted by me now

Thank you for the video and putting the part number in the description aswell. Really helpful!

where did you source the screen from, I cant find one anywhere? as I have the same problem... Cheers '~'

I just started getting increased emissions fault… you ever get that?

Gibt es was neues?

Just wishing you all the very best for the new year Guy 2025 is going to be fantastic for ya ❤ as for the video it was fantastic as always im going to order one of these parts today for when i have problems with the blowers 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

Most shocking thing about this is that the kick panel was still in one piece and not even cracked around the bolt holes, especially considering someone's been in there before. Looks a well taken care of car!

What symptoms would come along with bad PCV