Chevy 355 Engine Build Part-1, Cam and Crank Install - 450 Hp Street Engine SBC | Full Install
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Chevy 355 Engine Build Part-1, Cam and Crank Install - 450 Hp Street Engine SBC | Full Install
Engine came out of a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban, Vortec 5.7L with Hydraulic roller cam, two bolt main. In this video you will see Lance Davis (certified ASE Master Technician, retired) help me put this 355ci engine together. (.30 over gives 5 extra cubic inches) We are building this motor for our 1965 Chevy C10.
Block was cleaned and prepped by Central Machine shop in TN.
The block was bored .30 over.
New cam bearing and freeze plugs installed.
Block pained hot rod orange.
Crank was re-ground to .10 under and got new bearings to match.
We decided to go with Speed Pro .30 over Pistons and rings instead of just using over sized rings.
Machine shop pressed in the rod pins to the piston for us, they also did the fitment of the rings and had them installed on the pistons for us, ready to go.
Total cost to have this block machined with all the extra's was $1010.58
Comp Cam Hydraulic Camshaft $338.99
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Bent Oaks Garage
259 Muddy Fork Road
Jonesborough, TN 37659
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This is really similar to my dads camaro. He took a 355 Chevy and completely rebuilt it at a shot that focuses on chevys and I wasn’t even alive then. This is cool to see
FYI, gotta run a pipe cleaner through those oil passages in the crank. Really pay attention to any oil passage in the block too. In the hot tanking process a lot of junk is swimming around with your block. That stuff has to land somewhere. You don't want it in your oil passages. 👍
Wow. Santa Claus builds fast chevys during the off season. Who knew.
Lol, too funny. Thanks for the view.
not one cleaning brush was harmed during this build..... 😅
This is really a great build . thank you for an awesome video. Mine was 4.030" when I got it, although i'm going 4.040" bore when it goes back together it doesn't need it just going to. i'm going with a 6.200 rod.
Thanks for the input.
awesome
You should clean the cam off a bit instead of just installing it straight from thr box
not one oil hole was cleaned. on the block or the crank. thats a no no.... but hey not my zoo
@@redneckswitwheels Right, it'll work I reckon....until it doesn't 😂
Howdy. I’m newer. to wrenching. I have a pro built 355. It came with a dual carb setup. I want to say they were 500s. I can check when I go back to my storage unit. But the motor ran like ass. My neighbor who’s a lifetime hot rodder tossed a new manifold and a 650 he had on. 355 now runs like a bat out of hell. I mean night and day difference. He tuned her up a bit. We swapped out the fuel pump.
I’m not quite sure why it would change the dynamic of the car so much. Technically I have less fuel. Sorry for the newb question. Learning up on this stuff now. Do you know why this would be? Two 500s (new to double check) switching to one 650. I’m in Colorado at elevation if that helps.
Greetings, Picking the right carb for your build is essential for engine performance. A lot of new people to the field believe the more fuel you poor in the faster it can go, not counting on the other factors in play. I added a 600 CFM to my build and it is a little large if you do the math correctly, but I'll live with the numbers the the engine put out cause they are not to shabby.
Basically it breaks down to this: Take your engine displacement times your max RPM. Then take that number and times in .85. Finally take that number and divide it by 3456 and that will give you the ideal CFM carb you will want, add 10% cushion. See example below.
Example: Using a 355 CID engine x 5,500 max rpm = 1,952,500
Take 1,952,500 x .85 = 1,659,625
Then 1,659,625 ÷ 3456 = 480 CFM
10% cushion is 48, so the ideal CFM for that engine is only 530.
Hope this helps.
@@BentOaksGarage damn. That is super helpful! Thanks for responding.
cam I get a shopping list of everything you bought for this build, I would like to copy this exact build
Unfortunately, I only wrote down the highlights of the build and not the specifics. When this went to dyno, it had long tube header on it and not the shorties and please remember this is engine HP and Torque and not at the Wheel. I will most likely lose 1/3 or more to the wheels. If I would build this over again, I would have spent the extra money on a fresh 4 bolt block and had it prepped for a 383 stroker instead of the 355 that I made.
NKB Alum heads, 64cc, 2.02/1.60 729.00
Alum Fab valve covers - polished 73.95
7/16 ARP Rocker Studs & guide plate 69.95
Head gaskets, intake gasket and ARP bolts 128.50
Scorpion Racing Roller Rockers 1.6 7/16 275.00
Custom ground Comp Cams Hyd Roller 309.00
Polished timing chain cover 28.00
Double roller timing chain 104.00
45 Deg water neck 15.00
Oil filler cap 12.00
Polished front dress up kit 449.00
TCI Street fighter Trans TH350 575hp 1135.00
TCI Breakaway Torque Converter 2500 349.00
Milling HV oil pump 70.00
Pick up for 7Qt oil pan 53.00
7qt oil pan 207.00
Oil relocation, cooler, filter 87.00
oil pan gasket 34.00
Valve cover gasket 28.00
Valve cover screw down 30.00
Electric Fuel Pump 50.00
Carb choke cap 40.00
Carb rebuild kit 45.00
Break-in oil 14.00
Adapters for cooler 16.00
Thermostat 15.00
Distributor Cap clamp 8.00
Intake bolt down kit 17.00
"Block machine, .30 over, crank
reground -.10, New pistons, etc" 1010.58
Assembly lube 6.56
Red thread lock 7.65
Gasket Maker x 2 18.66
1/4-20 x .5" three packs of bolts 8.34
8 heatsheild sleeves 20.00
Hei Pigtail 13.79
Ehaust Wrap, Pipe plugs, Hose fitting 56.91
Air cleaner hold down, PVC, Pressure switch, New 5/8" plugs 81.50
Bolts to hold tranny on to engine 1.67
More pipe plugs 7.38
Flex Plate 168 tooth 34.95
"Another set of spark plug wires and starter shims" 54.00
Th350 mount 127.50
PCV hose 11.34
Flex plate shield 35.00
Engine Total $5,887.23
Did you guys reuse the main cap bolts? I have 350 out of a 91 c 1500. When I removed the main caps I had some of those long looking bolts like you got. Just wondering did u purchase new or reused
Greetings, We did re-use most all bolts. As soon as we disassembled the engine, we took all the bolts (except head bolts, tossed them out) over to the wire wheel and cleaned them all up. Getting all the dirt and grime off them is essential, no use starting fresh with nasty dirty bolts. lol
Random comment but did you get that jacket from Cabelas outdoor store?
Actually no, I've never been to a Cabelas before.
What brand assembly lube please? Starting my short block assembly and the choices are overwhelming! Thanks in advance
I prefer to use either Lucas or Ultra Slick
@@BentOaksGarage , think you sir! Thankfully those are the 2 that I got. This may be an astronomically stupid question but what would be the pros and cons of mixing the 2 of these? I'm not saying I would do that but you have to think outside the box or be creative sometimes to potentially get a better result? In this case the weaknesses of both could show up and I doubt it could amplify any of the good aspects.... Maybe I should just keep my mouth shut! 😆 Thank you for taking the time to reply sir. Take care
@@AR_420 I don't know of any Pro's or Cons about mixing. I've seen some old school builders use white lithium on the bearings and moly on the cam, then use either of the two I mentioned for everything else. But in reality, it's just a temporary lubricant till the oil pump buils oil for the first time and starts lubing on its own.
did you dyno the engine or is it a guess ? cheers
This engine was tested several times with different intakes and carb combos. I wanted a good streetable combo and ended up using a performer RPM intake (5500 rpm range) and a 600 carb. With that, I ended up making slightly more than than what I have listed in the video.
Like a parts list for this build if Available what brand cam heads pistons etc
I believe I have one listed in the description of this video: ruclips.net/video/lYD3JHe_rJ4/видео.html but will see if I can get something more detailed put together.
@@BentOaksGarage thanks man building the same motor for my Monte Carlo looking for 400+HP
Specs on the cam please, couldnt read the cam card.
Greetings. Adv Dur: 281/293, Dur @.050: 230/238, Lobe Sep: 111.0, Valve Lift: .510/.526
@@BentOaksGarage Thank you!
wat heads you used?
Please read the comments left by others. I stated their name and size.
What compression ratio is it? Deck height? What else was done to this? I’ve got a more streetable cam, the 280h with 11.5:1 compression with 64cc heads, a zero decked block and an MLS head gasket. It runs perfectly but I haven’t dyno’d it. It’s going in my 66 C10 eventually.
Greetings, I honestly don't remember many of the specs anymore, but I do remember the heads were 200cc intake runner and 64cc Chamber and we used a Fel-pro head gasket. We put this engine together, had it dynoed then installed it in the frame and its been sitting there ever since. This project is the one that we work on as spare money comes in and right now "spare" money is not there with the whole covid thing going on. So its just sitting in the back of the shop under a blanket waiting for the cab to be put back on. This is also my first frame off project and I have to say I was not prepared for all that needed to be done. lol.
BentOaks Garage was the cab super heavy? I’d like to take mine off, but worried about it.
@@Jamiloknid Yes, the cab will take at least 4 grown men to move. We ended up using a forklift and some straps through the doors and lifted from the top. I've also seen it done with an engine hoist. We built 2 roll around carts for the cab to sit on, makes it a lot easier to work on in you shop. One cart made for when it sitting upright, and the other slightly larger one to lay the cab on it back so I could cut out all the rusty floors and weld in new metal.
I’ve never seen assembly used on bolt threads........... why not engine oil or moly?
Lube*
why didnt they clean one oil hole?
Cam specs?
Adv Dur: 281/293, Dur @.050: 230/238, Lobe Sep: 111.0, Valve Lift: .510/.526 and using Scorpion 1.6 race roller rockers.
450hp is not going to happen with your engine.
Thanks for your input, however this one was put on the engine dyno and it pulled 452hp at 5500 rpm (after fixing the jetting on the carb)
why ?