i’ve watched this video countless times over the last 4 months you’ve helped me a lot on my small block build! In a framing carpenter working 40+ hours a week so i’m lucky to put an hour or two at it on weekdays but i’ve spent every weekend working on this project. Anyways thanks man! super knowledgeable 💪
I can’t begin to tell you how much your comment warmed my heart. I am ecstatic that we helped you! Thank you for your support and viewership! Keep on wrenchin buddy!
THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY IS A GREAT ENTRY-LEVEL MOTOR TO LEARN ON. IT HAS BEEN AROUND FIFTY YEARS. THERE IS A LOT OF INFORMATION ON THIS MOTOR. AND PARTS ARE STILL AVAILABLE TODAY!!! THAT IS WHY I LOVE IT!!! I LOVE THE LS ALSO!!!! THANKS FOR LETTING ME SHARE!!!
YOUR COMMENT SCREAMS RETARDATION. ENTRY LEVEL YOU MUST EAT GLUE. THAT IS AN AMERICAN MADE ICON ENGINE AND HAS BENN USED BY MANY REAL MEN SINCE THE BEGINING AND NOT BY LOSERS WHO WANT TO FRANKENSTEIN TRUCKS AND CARS WITH DILDO RAN LS ENGINES.
I like the way that you are using everything original when possible. A decent cam all i would change when reviving an old SBC. ofcourse the bearings rings timing chain etc. should be changed. Good job 👍
Tdc with both valves closed. Its a 4 cycle engine. U have first the intake stroke, then the compression stroke, then the power stroke, then the exhoust stroke is the last one bringing u back to tdc to start it all over again.
That cam works very well if you install it at 106 it has 4 degrees ground into it and use 1.6 rockers used it in many lift rule classes won many races lol
I do like this cam a lot, kinda can’t use all of it in the 3/4 ton truck I put it in but it’s sounds good and runs really good around 4000-5400 rpm. But this engine won’t be in this truck forever and when it comes out it will probably end up in car.
i am 32 years old this is the first time i heard something other than 20/45/55 granted that's just how i was taught, but this is awesome man, motivating me to build my 327 lol
I love that cam have used it a lot on street and it sounds killer with compression.and works great dirt track hobby stock .won 5 champion ships with that cam .run fellpro .014 head gasket with 64 cc get u right at 11 .tight quench wakes them sbc up
Even though the tall valve cover are trendy, they don't mean anything performance wise. They just get in the way when working on the carburetor and so on. Shave down the valve spring seats, drill for 7/16 rocker arm studds to cut down on flexing and put regular valve covers on the heads and just like that, a super sleeper. At least that's what im doing with my SBC 350. I have the same heads with 2" intake valves and bigger double springs. Im going to install a 144 blower and be done with it.
For LSA choices, you should watch the last 2 Cattledog garage videos. He explains HOW to get the correct LSA for a camshaft like no one else has. I purchased Billy Godbold's new book and feel that I wasted my money. Cattle Dog does an excellent job. You will find that your 106 choice may not be optimum. Yes, it will work good and the difference will not be 1.000 h.p. but it will perform better at all rpm ranges while using the rest of the lobe specs. LSA is critical for proper cylinder filling and scavenging. The information provided will take complete attention, possibly stopping and rewinding to get a better grasp. Even David Vizard likes the videos and he is probably one of the most knowledgeable guys on the planet. It is a shame about his daughter and for him to have needed brain surgery, it has affected his recall so he kind of stalls on some of his videos. He has written quite a few books. Your build looks like a nice one and should be fun to drive.
Good video guys, you explained it well. I myself have never built an engine but I would like to get a junkyard engine to freshen up (crate motors are too expensive) also nice ripping guitar for “background music”
Never really referred to it as the overlap stroke, always intake or in this case exhaust stroke. Overlap occurs at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke which is TDC of the exhaust stroke which does makes it correct. 👍
There is only one TDC per cylinder. I did know that term but it has been so long since I have even thought about it. I need to look that up and see if I can find it. If I can find my old Detroit specs, and shop tech books, there is also a dolly position and four or five other position terms about the piston and rod and when your pouring sand molds it is very important I will let you know, you know there is bdc and tdc then intake compression power exhaust. You know you do a great job simple easy I like it good great job Docakasevenonefour
Just use some Permatex liquid teflon on the head bolt threads and your good to go. Also you don't want paint on your intake gasket sealing surfaces. SBC is a great motor to learn on. Good work!
Your going to be somewhere around 300 hp give or take looks to me which is actually pretty decent in a square body with a limited slip diff youll be able to have a blast w 300 hp lol gonna show the break in ? And the burnout i hope ? Lmao fun stuff guys good job
10:24 you should get in the practice of never putting a liquid into a dead end hole as in some application the bolt going in could hydro the hole and cause a crack. maybe not on the cam like you did but still good practice, just put the loctite on the bolt thread, dont even put it on the end of the bolt, cheers
I have a 95 Chevy 1500 with the TBI 305, I want some more power but don’t want to go the LS swap route. What upgrades could I do to a 350 so that I can same money as opposed to doing an LS swap?
All depends on your budget. If it’s a stock bottom end I’d say a set of heads, cam and intake would be your biggest upgrade points. We should have a build video out later this year on a build like that!
Apply the four hotrodding rules: intake; ignition; weight; exhaust. For the 305, just swap to a 350 to begin with. That said, first open up the exhaust by cutting in half the exhaust pipe as close to the collector as possible, cut up the obstruction ahead of the Y, and flatten with the sides of the pipe using a crow bar and long screwdriver. Next swap in a Dynomax Ultra Flow muffler (use the offset/offset for a semblance of stock sound at idle, and sane highway driving) and eliminate the resonator muffler if any. These mods should give more accelaration. Next, install a stage II hot computer chip (hard to find these days) and 160° thermostat. If this isn't enough oomph for your 305 or 350, time for a level II shift kit and lower rear gears.
Honestly this engine could make 400hp + with a set of 1.6 roller rockers and a better intake. We do have a future 350 build coming to the channel later this year with a set of AFRs on it so we can compare then.
@@turbodave231 you are absolutely correct. Advertised duration is just a big number that makes a cam look big. The LSA makes the cam a little odd for the application but it sounds awesome so that’s why I picked it. It’s is a really good combo, I just wish the truck had more rear gear. The 3.23s make the cam useless from 1500 to 3000 rpm but man this engine come to life from 3500-6000.
Good video, good coverage of the assembly, motor looks good, just need a dyno ticket to she what she really does. Highly recommend going to a stiffer rocker, those factory style tend to flex with aggressive cams and you loose valve train stability (mainly at higher RPM). Regardless, should be a great little mill.
Dude I like your attitude and your doing things right you did good with long slot rockers because a lot of guys put performance camshafts in there I don't pay attention with the rocker arms I would have went with the roller tip rockers because you would definitely get just a little bit more horsepower for a just a couple more dollars but that's okay it'll still work good attitude
The roller tips add absolutely 0 HP, the only friction a rocker see's is at the ball. I've been using assault racing SS roller rockers, they are really nice and only cost about 175 bucks a set! Been using them for about 8yrs now with no problems whatsoever!
Excellent video. Are those head bolts just standard bolts that use a 9/16 socket? I have a 97 350 vortec that uses the torque to yield bolts and I was going to switch to standard bolts if they work?
You'll always have the roller option further down the road. I have roasted a lot of tires with flat tappet engines over 40 plus years with no complaints 👌
Yes but no. We know each other well enough to where I understood what he was saying, even though to a normal viewer yes, it was not a direct answer. Basically I was asking if there was so much lube on the cam that it was pushing back out if the bearings. His answer was basically no because it cut the access lube off as it went into the cam bearing.
I bought a set of those edelbrock rocker covers for the states , thinking they where two pease but I was wrong and thay had made ln Taiwan all over them God bless America ????
@@Jshshshe-hj5un A lot of it was being taught and just going out in the shop and doing it trial by fire. All the guys you see in these videos are the people that helped me and along the way.
He is basically telling you he went in the back of a white truck and got robbed . That Snap On T wrench is probably pushing $800.00, you definitely do not need that wrench unless you are using it professionally everyday….. even then but that is a different argument. You can get every bit as accurate and good quality from other names. Gearworks tools is a nice quality wrench for way way less money, the biggest difference is it won’t have that name on it. Save the money and put it into your build where you can have a real difference.
Thanks, this cam worked out reasonably well especially with it being in a 3/4 ton truck with a 2,000 stall converter and 3.23 rear gears in the truck. Duration dramatically effects what rpm the engine make peak numbers at and with the application being a truck motor, it makes zero sense to have a motor of this application make peak power at 6-8k rpm. This cam was a happy medium of it sounds nasty and performs well but it isn’t over kill.
I need help with my engine it’s 350sbc i have problem with the ignition Timing . I Change the distributor it’s hei and it doesn’t work perfectly what can I do ¿
I’d check to see if you have a good coil and ignition module if you don’t have spark. If that’s all good but you are still having problems I’d check to see if you have your distributor clocked in the right position if you or someone else had it out and might not have put it back in right. Hope that helps.
What do you mean it doesn't work perfectly anyway I've run into a lot of them that had sticky or even stuck advance weights and such a good cleaning and greasing and a curve kit makes all the difference in the world now don't even worry about base timing just get it to give you all advance in at say 3000 rpms wherever the base timing lands is irrelevant it could be even 20 deg as long as it starts well and sounds happy it's fine base timing means nothing it's total timing that is what is the most important 35 deg btdc or so some engines like a bit more or less but in a stock motor low compression especially bring the advance in as quickly as possible and you'll swear it's a brand new engine it will be super responsive and just be a super happy engine
@@datz_nice_805 I’ve heard that both Castrol and Valvoline are both decent oils. I am pretty sure Castrol makes a specific oil for the older stuff but I can’t currently recall what they named it. I’ve used Valvoline Synthetics but only in a newer vehicle so I personally haven’t used either of them in a flat tappet engine. I personally stay away from synthetics for older engines if I can.
That is a trick that a lot of guys do, if I’m not mistaken we put a drill on the oil pump and spun the oil pump for 10-15 minutes so the whole system got oiled including the lifters.
Perhaps you should try prescription glasses or contacts since you don’t see. I myself prefer the glasses over the contacts mostly because I don’t like to touch my eye ball. Also FEWWW THANK GOODNESS I TITLED THE VIDEO 375-400 horsepower since it falls short in your judgement but then yet again you might have not seen that either. I recommend contacting your local eye doctor immediately! 🥴👍
@@BoneyardRevivals Just wondering were you think 375 even? It's got no performance parts dished pistons. The thumper cam sounds good but that's about it. Vortec heads ok but nothing special. I don't need glasses lol but good reply. Anyway enjoy your engine it's nice when you build it yourself. It wasn't being an ass lol just curious
@@philbrown8056 I talked to with the guy at the machine shop (who is in the video) and 375-400 at the crank was a realistic number. I am not one to inflate numbers just to get views on RUclips. Some day down the road I would love to strap it down on a dyno and see what it actually makes. Maybe I’ll be wrong… who knows but I feel confident that it would be close to backing up our numbers. Is 400 a bit of a stretch? Maybe but that’s why I said 375 to 400. Kinda covers my tail a bit. We do appreciate your comment because it keeps us on our toes. And even if we are wrong and it doesn’t make the numbers you bet we will tear it down and keep adding parts until it does!
She actually runs out to 6. But yea she’s probably making peak numbers between 5-5500rpm. If it had 1.6 rollers and bigger valves it would probably run out to 6200-6500. But for it going into a 3/4 ton square Body I didn’t want to go too crazy. It would definitely be awesome in a car.
I’d argue that there is not much of a difference and any advice\documentation you’ll find will say 3/4 of a turn. We broke this motor in the way I set it and it was completely fine. I am curious to know why is 1/4 better that 3/4?
Now that’s a hard question to answer but for everything that is there in a basic motor build we have around $3,200 from buying it to putting together the cylinder heads cam and intake. Now I can add in all little the odds and ends that I personally bought or went with for my application and that I slammed this thing together to go on power tour. Like I spent good money for the dress up kit and a bunch of other little tidbits. But for the nitty gritty here is the bare bones motor we have about $3,200 into it. Which is completely respectable in our opinion.
How do you figure 375 horsepower with them cylinder heads there's no way and your compression is low there's no way who is giving you the false information then build small block Chevrolet heads for 30 years sorry to hurt your feelings but you be lucky you had 300 horsepower with the vortec heads
Those heads way out flow the old Camel humps with much better combustion chambers! You can certainly get 375-400hp with those heads, they are by far the best factory gen 1 SBC ever produced!
Was enjoying the video, then I realized that if I would have started taking a drink of beer everytime you said "umm & actually" i would be shit faced halfway through. 🙄
The hydraulic roller gm hot cam (the one with .480 lift) an air gap intake and a junk 750 carb can make 422hp. My 383 stroker with bone stock vortec heads and a .477 single pattern cam made 467hp. I added 1.60 exhaust valves and made even more power. What rock have you been living under. A gm crate engine has 8.5:1 compression, 76cc chambers with 624/882 heads and that baby small cam it has can make 322hp with a set of long tube headers and a good intake and carb. Take the peak flow number and double it. So a vortec can flow around 228-232. Let’s say 230cfm on the intake. That’s 460 total. With the right parts those heads are capable of 460 hp give or take a few numbers based on exhaust flow numbers and the parts used together. A bad cam can make a good set of heads look bad. But a good cam can make a bad set of heads look amazing. If a baby gm hot cam can make a 9.3:1 motor make 422hp imagine what a 11:1 motor can make with a lot bigger cam. I’ve not seen a motor with vortec heads that made less than 300hp even with the tbi exhaust manifolds and 2 inch exhaust. Don Terril made over 500hp with a 307. It had a set of old truck flow 175cc runners and a huge cam but don’t ever underestimate a small block. Even the smaller cubic inch motors.
As far as application and idle vacuum… absolutely. But I’ll trade sketchy brakes for the most wicked sounding small block powered square body any day of the week! 🤣
i’ve watched this video countless times over the last 4 months you’ve helped me a lot on my small block build! In a framing carpenter working 40+ hours a week so i’m lucky to put an hour or two at it on weekdays but i’ve spent every weekend working on this project. Anyways thanks man! super knowledgeable 💪
I can’t begin to tell you how much your comment warmed my heart. I am ecstatic that we helped you! Thank you for your support and viewership! Keep on wrenchin buddy!
THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY IS A GREAT ENTRY-LEVEL MOTOR TO LEARN ON. IT HAS BEEN AROUND FIFTY YEARS. THERE IS A LOT OF INFORMATION ON THIS MOTOR. AND PARTS ARE STILL AVAILABLE TODAY!!! THAT IS WHY I LOVE IT!!! I LOVE THE LS ALSO!!!! THANKS FOR LETTING ME SHARE!!!
Have you published any LS video's that we can all learn you techniques?
Why are you yelling
NEEDED THIS BECAUSE IM GETTING A 81 SCOTTSDALE
It’s been around for about 70 years, not 50
YOUR COMMENT SCREAMS RETARDATION. ENTRY LEVEL YOU MUST EAT GLUE. THAT IS AN AMERICAN MADE ICON ENGINE AND HAS BENN USED BY MANY REAL MEN SINCE THE BEGINING AND NOT BY LOSERS WHO WANT TO FRANKENSTEIN TRUCKS AND CARS WITH DILDO RAN LS ENGINES.
I like the way that you are using everything original when possible. A decent cam all i would change when reviving an old SBC. ofcourse the bearings rings timing chain etc. should be changed. Good job 👍
Tdc with both valves closed. Its a 4 cycle engine. U have first the intake stroke, then the compression stroke, then the power stroke, then the exhoust stroke is the last one bringing u back to tdc to start it all over again.
That cam works very well if you install it at 106 it has 4 degrees ground into it and use 1.6 rockers used it in many lift rule classes won many races lol
I do like this cam a lot, kinda can’t use all of it in the 3/4 ton truck I put it in but it’s sounds good and runs really good around 4000-5400 rpm. But this engine won’t be in this truck forever and when it comes out it will probably end up in car.
i am 32 years old
this is the first time i heard something other than 20/45/55 granted that's just how i was taught, but this is awesome man,
motivating me to build my 327 lol
NOT flaming, just happy as shit :)
I love that cam have used it a lot on street and it sounds killer with compression.and works great dirt track hobby stock .won 5 champion ships with that cam .run fellpro .014 head gasket with 64 cc get u right at 11 .tight quench wakes them sbc up
Even though the tall valve cover are trendy, they don't mean anything performance wise. They just get in the way when working on the carburetor and so on. Shave down the valve spring seats, drill for 7/16 rocker arm studds to cut down on flexing and put regular valve covers on the heads and just like that, a super sleeper. At least that's what im doing with my SBC 350. I have the same heads with 2" intake valves and bigger double springs. Im going to install a 144 blower and be done with it.
I adjusted my lash while it was running. I would back it off till I heard tapping and then adjusted till it just stopped and called it good.
Thats how my dad adjusted mine for me. Its a decent old school style.
If you don't look at the cam bearings, they're fine, and you save on your budget. LS building 101
🤣🤣🤣
Just send it. 🤣
For LSA choices, you should watch the last 2 Cattledog garage videos. He explains HOW to get the correct LSA for a camshaft like no one else has. I purchased Billy Godbold's new book and feel that I wasted my money. Cattle Dog does an excellent job. You will find that your 106 choice may not be optimum. Yes, it will work good and the difference will not be 1.000 h.p. but it will perform better at all rpm ranges while using the rest of the lobe specs. LSA is critical for proper cylinder filling and scavenging. The information provided will take complete attention, possibly stopping and rewinding to get a better grasp. Even David Vizard likes the videos and he is probably one of the most knowledgeable guys on the planet. It is a shame about his daughter and for him to have needed brain surgery, it has affected his recall so he kind of stalls on some of his videos. He has written quite a few books. Your build looks like a nice one and should be fun to drive.
I saved those videos to watch. Thanks for the info!
Good video guys, you explained it well. I myself have never built an engine but I would like to get a junkyard engine to freshen up (crate motors are too expensive) also nice ripping guitar for “background music”
Thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it. We have to have a few more engine builds like this one coming sometime this year!
My favourite for Street Driven builds is the old Weiand Stealth, and if you can find one the Holley 300-36 - the DZ302 manifold
Never really referred to it as the overlap stroke, always intake or in this case exhaust stroke. Overlap occurs at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke which is TDC of the exhaust stroke which does makes it correct. 👍
There is only one TDC per cylinder.
I did know that term but it has been so long since I have even thought about it.
I need to look that up and see if I can find it.
If I can find my old Detroit specs, and shop tech books, there is also a dolly position and four or five other position terms about the piston and rod and when your pouring sand molds it is very important I will let you know, you know there is bdc and tdc then intake compression power exhaust.
You know you do a great job simple easy I like it good great job
Docakasevenonefour
Just use some Permatex liquid teflon on the head bolt threads and your good to go. Also you don't want paint on your intake gasket sealing surfaces. SBC is a great motor to learn on. Good work!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! TOTALLY AWSOME BUILD!!!! THANKS FOR SHARING AND I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!! YOUR BUILD CAME OUT GREAT!!!
Your going to be somewhere around 300 hp give or take looks to me which is actually pretty decent in a square body with a limited slip diff youll be able to have a blast w 300 hp lol gonna show the break in ? And the burnout i hope ? Lmao fun stuff guys good job
10:24 you should get in the practice of never putting a liquid into a dead end hole as
in some application the bolt going in could hydro the hole and cause a crack. maybe not on the cam like you did
but still good practice, just put the loctite on the bolt thread, dont even put it on the end of the bolt, cheers
Looks fantastic.
The slop in the timing chain is called ‘backlash’
I have a 95 Chevy 1500 with the TBI 305, I want some more power but don’t want to go the LS swap route. What upgrades could I do to a 350 so that I can same money as opposed to doing an LS swap?
All depends on your budget. If it’s a stock bottom end I’d say a set of heads, cam and intake would be your biggest upgrade points. We should have a build video out later this year on a build like that!
Apply the four hotrodding rules: intake; ignition; weight; exhaust. For the 305, just swap to a 350 to begin with. That said, first open up the exhaust by cutting in half the exhaust pipe as close to the collector as possible, cut up the obstruction ahead of the Y, and flatten with the sides of the pipe using a crow bar and long screwdriver. Next swap in a Dynomax Ultra Flow muffler (use the offset/offset for a semblance of stock sound at idle, and sane highway driving) and eliminate the resonator muffler if any. These mods should give more accelaration. Next, install a stage II hot computer chip (hard to find these days) and 160° thermostat. If this isn't enough oomph for your 305 or 350, time for a level II shift kit and lower rear gears.
Why put valve cover spacers and extra tall valve covers on if your only running stamped rockers?
The spacers is actually an adapter to accept the center bolt to premiere bolt valve covers.
Do you have any idea what it might make if it had AFR heads vs the vortec heads? Just curious what the difference might be
Honestly this engine could make 400hp + with a set of 1.6 roller rockers and a better intake.
We do have a future 350 build coming to the channel later this year with a set of AFRs on it so we can compare then.
Great vid really enjoyed it super helpful for first time builder like myself great work.
Thanks man appreciate it!
That cam is actually a 218/218 duration @.050. Very mild! the 106 LSA will give you a nice idle sound. Advertised duration is a useless specification.
@@turbodave231 you are absolutely correct. Advertised duration is just a big number that makes a cam look big. The LSA makes the cam a little odd for the application but it sounds awesome so that’s why I picked it. It’s is a really good combo, I just wish the truck had more rear gear. The 3.23s make the cam useless from 1500 to 3000 rpm but man this engine come to life from 3500-6000.
WY have you left the paint on the inlet face .??????
It doesn’t affect sealing.
Good video, good coverage of the assembly, motor looks good, just need a dyno ticket to she what she really does. Highly recommend going to a stiffer rocker, those factory style tend to flex with aggressive cams and you loose valve train stability (mainly at higher RPM). Regardless, should be a great little mill.
Does a 1966 283 small block 350 engine in a el Camino fit in a 1963 nova ii
Great job vloging and engine work both difficult great job
Thanks! Thanks for viewing and enjoying!
Dude I like your attitude and your doing things right you did good with long slot rockers because a lot of guys put performance camshafts in there I don't pay attention with the rocker arms I would have went with the roller tip rockers because you would definitely get just a little bit more horsepower for a just a couple more dollars but that's okay it'll still work good attitude
The roller tips add absolutely 0 HP, the only friction a rocker see's is at the ball. I've been using assault racing SS roller rockers, they are really nice and only cost about 175 bucks a set! Been using them for about 8yrs now with no problems whatsoever!
Excellent video. Are those head bolts just standard bolts that use a 9/16 socket? I have a 97 350 vortec that uses the torque to yield bolts and I was going to switch to standard bolts if they work?
Why in the world are you painting gasket mating surfaces?
enjoy those dyno max mufflers I have the thrush rattler also n I have the rpm intake n a 1in spectre spacer it's a 2 in 1 pack
Do you use vortec gasket when you put vortec heads on a 2nd gen sbc?
Woulda been sweet u coulda created a list with links😁
Seems a shame to not use a roller cam in that roller block.
I’d agree but for the price point it made more sense to slap the hydraulic flat tappet in her.
@@BoneyardRevivals cant beat that 100 dollar ciecle track cam lol
You'll always have the roller option further down the road. I have roasted a lot of tires with flat tappet engines over 40 plus years with no complaints 👌
Its a budget build buddy
You guys are awesome to watch! Where are you guys located?
How are you getting 400hp with 9.5 to 1 compression? What camshaft are you using?
I have noisy timing gears as well
I have a 1991 Chevy OBS Truck. The Fuel Pump is in the Gas Tank. Can you build a Small Block 350 for me?
Great damn video
Sorry to say who's Tonya 375 horsepower keep
6:25 he didn’t even answer his question😂
Yes but no. We know each other well enough to where I understood what he was saying, even though to a normal viewer yes, it was not a direct answer.
Basically I was asking if there was so much lube on the cam that it was pushing back out if the bearings. His answer was basically no because it cut the access lube off as it went into the cam bearing.
I bought a set of those edelbrock rocker covers for the states , thinking they where two pease but I was wrong and thay had made ln Taiwan all over them God bless America ????
Those are an older made in America set that I got, I paid good money for them.
Yeah you definitely dont want to advance that cam 4 deg .. dot to dot ive advanced stock cams and had a big jump in low end grunt ..
I'm looking forward to the next one🔥🔥🔥
With a new cam should come new bearings im not gonna say ive never done it but its because the motor was still in the car lol
How did you learn mechanical work. Did you get taught by someone or did you go to school
@@Jshshshe-hj5un A lot of it was being taught and just going out in the shop and doing it trial by fire. All the guys you see in these videos are the people that helped me and along the way.
Where do you get that kind of torque wrench?
The local tool truck sex offender… wait I am sorry, I mean the Snap On guy. 🤣
@@BoneyardRevivals thanks 🤣
He is basically telling you he went in the back of a white truck and got robbed . That Snap On T wrench is probably pushing $800.00, you definitely do not need that wrench unless you are using it professionally everyday….. even then but that is a different argument. You can get every bit as accurate and good quality from other names. Gearworks tools is a nice quality wrench for way way less money, the biggest difference is it won’t have that name on it. Save the money and put it into your build where you can have a real difference.
Esta calidad el modelo y la convinacion de ese motor Edelbrok😍👍
Smart cam choice. There's alot of fun keeping a street cam under 275 duration.. .
Thanks, this cam worked out reasonably well especially with it being in a 3/4 ton truck with a 2,000 stall converter and 3.23 rear gears in the truck. Duration dramatically effects what rpm the engine make peak numbers at and with the application being a truck motor, it makes zero sense to have a motor of this application make peak power at 6-8k rpm. This cam was a happy medium of it sounds nasty and performs well but it isn’t over kill.
Hard to get some people to understand bigger ain’t always better on camshafts
I need help with my engine it’s 350sbc i have problem with the ignition Timing . I Change the distributor it’s hei and it doesn’t work perfectly what can I do ¿
I’d check to see if you have a good coil and ignition module if you don’t have spark. If that’s all good but you are still having problems I’d check to see if you have your distributor clocked in the right position if you or someone else had it out and might not have put it back in right. Hope that helps.
What do you mean it doesn't work perfectly anyway I've run into a lot of them that had sticky or even stuck advance weights and such a good cleaning and greasing and a curve kit makes all the difference in the world now don't even worry about base timing just get it to give you all advance in at say 3000 rpms wherever the base timing lands is irrelevant it could be even 20 deg as long as it starts well and sounds happy it's fine base timing means nothing it's total timing that is what is the most important 35 deg btdc or so some engines like a bit more or less but in a stock motor low compression especially bring the advance in as quickly as possible and you'll swear it's a brand new engine it will be super responsive and just be a super happy engine
How do you know the horsepower
Rough estimates on similar builds and, compression.
Hello boss love your skills.
@@alberthernandez4947 thanks bud!
what all did you do to it?
What kind oil u use for the flat tapped engine L83
For break in I want to say we used Driven 10-40w break in oil, for regular oil changes I use 15-40w Shell Rotella T4 with Erson zinc additive
@@BoneyardRevivals m1 15w-50 or Valvoline VR1 2”w-50. Ok to use or castrol gtx classic. It for a 84 corvette cross fire
@@datz_nice_805 I’ve heard that both Castrol and Valvoline are both decent oils. I am pretty sure Castrol makes a specific oil for the older stuff but I can’t currently recall what they named it. I’ve used Valvoline Synthetics but only in a newer vehicle so I personally haven’t used either of them in a flat tappet engine. I personally stay away from synthetics for older engines if I can.
Your lucky if it makes 300 hp iv put many together just saying man.dont put wheel bearing grease on cam takes high temp to melt.
My friends 350 tbi in his 87 made 272 horsepower sae stock engine with only headers and cherry bombs
what lifters and pushrods did you use?
The lifters came with the Summit Cam as a kit. I don’t remember what push rods we used.
Like the video but can hardly hear of the music
Biggest cam before you have to cit heads and intake around 500 lift
350 sbc 202 160 double hump heads 488 cam 11 1/2 piston hp how much rough
About 350 an run high test gas or head gasket blow.
Album intake two 450 carbs
What is the @ 50 duration
218
I thought you were supposed to soak your lifters
That is a trick that a lot of guys do, if I’m not mistaken we put a drill on the oil pump and spun the oil pump for 10-15 minutes so the whole system got oiled including the lifters.
how much it run u?
I don't see a 400 hp build. Also gasket sealer, (silicone) around intake ports is a no no in the engine build world
Perhaps you should try prescription glasses or contacts since you don’t see. I myself prefer the glasses over the contacts mostly because I don’t like to touch my eye ball.
Also FEWWW THANK GOODNESS I TITLED THE VIDEO 375-400 horsepower since it falls short in your judgement but then yet again you might have not seen that either. I recommend contacting your local eye doctor immediately! 🥴👍
@@BoneyardRevivals Just wondering were you think 375 even? It's got no performance parts dished pistons. The thumper cam sounds good but that's about it. Vortec heads ok but nothing special. I don't need glasses lol but good reply. Anyway enjoy your engine it's nice when you build it yourself. It wasn't being an ass lol just curious
@@philbrown8056 I talked to with the guy at the machine shop (who is in the video) and 375-400 at the crank was a realistic number. I am not one to inflate numbers just to get views on RUclips. Some day down the road I would love to strap it down on a dyno and see what it actually makes. Maybe I’ll be wrong… who knows but I feel confident that it would be close to backing up our numbers. Is 400 a bit of a stretch? Maybe but that’s why I said 375 to 400. Kinda covers my tail a bit. We do appreciate your comment because it keeps us on our toes. And even if we are wrong and it doesn’t make the numbers you bet we will tear it down and keep adding parts until it does!
hell yea brother
Can I run stock lifters with the cam?
Do you mean as in reuse the old ones?
Yes but dont expect the performance. Stock lifters will definately still get mlre the 300 HP.
What’s after this video?
Us putting this motor in our square body Chevy and firing it up for the first time.
Can you link the cam?
Should be this one www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k00172
why not an ati damper? jw
Mostly cost. The damper that was on it was in good enough shape that I put it back on.
UN SALUDO DESDE CIUDAD VALLE HERMOSO TAMAULIPAS MÉXICO
Doneness
Told you we’d have the video out. 😂
Do u do builds for other ppl
Unfortunately no. We usually just work on our own projects. We don’t normally work on someone else’s unless they are close family or friends.
So does it run out of breath around 5300 rpm?
She actually runs out to 6. But yea she’s probably making peak numbers between 5-5500rpm. If it had 1.6 rollers and bigger valves it would probably run out to 6200-6500. But for it going into a 3/4 ton square Body I didn’t want to go too crazy. It would definitely be awesome in a car.
1/4 turns better, especially flat tappets for break in.
I’d argue that there is not much of a difference and any advice\documentation you’ll find will say 3/4 of a turn. We broke this motor in the way I set it and it was completely fine. I am curious to know why is 1/4 better that 3/4?
Less load on the new cam,
Nice!
Didn't summit racing tell you about the roller tip rockers you're not much more money then the long
Dist shaft move it
How much do you have total invested into it
Now that’s a hard question to answer but for everything that is there in a basic motor build we have around $3,200 from buying it to putting together the cylinder heads cam and intake. Now I can add in all little the odds and ends that I personally bought or went with for my application and that I slammed this thing together to go on power tour. Like I spent good money for the dress up kit and a bunch of other little tidbits. But for the nitty gritty here is the bare bones motor we have about $3,200 into it. Which is completely respectable in our opinion.
How do you figure 375 horsepower with them cylinder heads there's no way and your compression is low there's no way who is giving you the false information then build small block Chevrolet heads for 30 years sorry to hurt your feelings but you be lucky you had 300 horsepower with the vortec heads
Those heads way out flow the old Camel humps with much better combustion chambers! You can certainly get 375-400hp with those heads, they are by far the best factory gen 1 SBC ever produced!
59, it's right next to 60...😂
That is gonna be lumpy for sure lol 106 lsa
Was enjoying the video, then I realized that if I would have started taking a drink of beer everytime you said "umm & actually" i would be shit faced halfway through. 🙄
@misfitgarage-s3v Umm, Quater of a million views and someone finally actually says something about it. Umm actually, dang it.
👍
😊
🤟🤟🤟🤟
You need to learn what loctite is
👍🏻🇦🇺
Stop saying actually
Actually I won’t 🥹
375-400 HP ? Lucky if you make 300.
Says some random dude on the internet
@@BoneyardRevivals nope not with Vortec heads! Easy to get 375-400 👍❤️
@@BoneyardRevivals smog head 350 from 1969 does 300hp. Yours got vortecs and a healthy cam he just hating. Nice build man 👍❤️
Do you realize that the GM 330hp crate engine has a tiny 212/222 camshaft???
The hydraulic roller gm hot cam (the one with .480 lift) an air gap intake and a junk 750 carb can make 422hp. My 383 stroker with bone stock vortec heads and a .477 single pattern cam made 467hp. I added 1.60 exhaust valves and made even more power. What rock have you been living under. A gm crate engine has 8.5:1 compression, 76cc chambers with 624/882 heads and that baby small cam it has can make 322hp with a set of long tube headers and a good intake and carb. Take the peak flow number and double it. So a vortec can flow around 228-232. Let’s say 230cfm on the intake. That’s 460 total. With the right parts those heads are capable of 460 hp give or take a few numbers based on exhaust flow numbers and the parts used together. A bad cam can make a good set of heads look bad. But a good cam can make a bad set of heads look amazing. If a baby gm hot cam can make a 9.3:1 motor make 422hp imagine what a 11:1 motor can make with a lot bigger cam. I’ve not seen a motor with vortec heads that made less than 300hp even with the tbi exhaust manifolds and 2 inch exhaust. Don Terril made over 500hp with a 307. It had a set of old truck flow 175cc runners and a huge cam but don’t ever underestimate a small block. Even the smaller cubic inch motors.
108 will do ya better
As far as application and idle vacuum… absolutely. But I’ll trade sketchy brakes for the most wicked sounding small block powered square body any day of the week! 🤣
Stop smacking your lips bro
I’ll do whatever I damn well please bro.
If I were you I’d have spring the extra $30 for CHP-8T cam bearings