Thanks for watching a baldy beard man continue his 3D printing journey one step at a time. I'd love to hear your thoughts, what choices did you make, do you like these models or are you steering clear of the models with closed firmware and trying to go down the open source path. There are so many options it can be very confusing, but hopefully this video gives a good reflection of an out of the box experience for the novice. Neil - RMC
Delta's are something to be suspicious of, if it's not properly designed and setup, it's going to cause really hard to figure out geometry issues (Like printing a box results in a rather more spherical shape). I'd steer anyone interested in the printers towards the Original Prusa printers, that said they are more expensive than say creality printers or other decent chinese brands. I personally have two CoreXY's, one has chinese electronics with re-configured marlin 2.0 and the other duet 2 maestro. The duet3d boards are amazing, and swapping electronics on 3d printers is surprisingly easy, they just control standard steppers, heaters and temperature probes. Also good automatic bed leveling is a godsend.
I enjoy these videos! Actually seeing all the use you were getting out of your ender was the final prompt for me to get into 3d printing and I picked up an ender 5 pro. It took me like a week or more of fiddling and experimenting before I began to understand it (glass bed + bltouch for auto leveling were the final pieces to high quality easy prints though!) and its been great. I'm printing retro parts, brackets and cases - but also mini figs and decorative items and I'm thinking our delta printer you're showing is going to really struggle to print at those high speeds for detailed figures with small parts and lots of traveling - but is probably the best for self enclosed things like brackets and parts. If you ever have an experiment I would love to know how well it does trying to print something intricate fast!
To unlock the potential of a lot of Delta style printers, it really requires going into the firmware to make changes to the acceleration and jerk settings, as well as setting up the built-in high speed settings. Open-source firmware (such as Marlin) contain speed settings specifically for Delta printers, so it being closed source makes it difficult to tinker with to perfection. Also, the adjustments that can be made from the touchscreen will increase the speed without compensating for the flow of material, so doing it as you did in Cura is the reliable way to do it. However, any adjustments you make on the touchscreen after the print should be noted, then applied to the settings in Cura for subsequent prints. This way you will have the most accurate gcode file, and you will have room to do adjustments from the touchscreen if you need to further calibrate, because you do not need to set any speed overrides on the printer itself. I wish you luck on your journey!
Delta printers can move faster. But, there's only so much heat available to melt the plastic. Extrusion speed is the limiting factor. And if you want to print in materials other than PLA, especially flexible material, you have to dial the speed down further.
Changing all the speed settings for any machine wont do much, your limited by the machines acceleration settings, the delta machine will end up significantly faster in the end, alot faster than what you got in this video. Machines like the ender 3 are hard limited by the bed in the Y axis, its alot more inertia than the printhead on the delta machine.
The other thing to remember with Delta printers is that the model itself doesn't move. So. If you spend the time and dial in the settings perfectly you can get really quite amazing prints, since the model won't wobble around once the build plate gets high. And/or loaded with filament.
Very interesting Neil! I find this subject fascinating but totally confusing...this is the first time I feel like I have some idea what's going on. A win for you!
I have my heavily modded Ender 3 BLV with SKR mb and micro swiss direct drive, and Q5 next to it, the Q5 always wins but what impresses me more is the approach by Flsun and making dam good machines at great price points. My Q5 was £130 and I am now looking at the flsun QQ-S over a Ender 5. But the new FLSun V400 looks amazing and I will be looking at one of them when released.
Did you use the same G-Code? The delta can actually print faster because of lighter effector. The real test is to find the maximum printing speed that the printer can operate without the belts skipping because of inertia. I have a custom built delta that can print up to 160mm/s without the belts skipping.
I wonder why they moved the power supply and electronics to the top of the unit. I don't think I like the idea of the unit being top heavy. Does the power supply fan run when the unit is plugged in but not switched on? Are the cooling fans quiet? In the QQ-S that I have the power supply fan is always on when the unit is plugged in to the wall and the cooling fan(s) are really loud.
Nice comparison video. Delta printers are fascinating to watch! It was because of your original video about your Ender 3 Pro that I decided to get one myself, but an Ender 3, not the Pro. I've owned it for almost 5 months now, and I've had my ups and downs with it. Even though I did my research and watched lots of RUclips videos about 3D printing before I bought it, I realise now that I didn't really know what I was doing at the beginning! Obviously I'm more experienced now and know all the ins and outs of my printer. I've extensively upgraded and modded it to the point where I can usually just press start and leave it til it's finished printing. The biggest factor in this, and undoubtedly one of the two best things I've bought for it (the other being a mainboard with silent stepper motor drivers) was an auto bed levelling device. I mentioned this in one of the comments on your original video. It only cost me about £20 or so but it was worth every penny! It's a fascinating and sometimes frustrating hobby to get into, but very rewarding when things go right.
If you're down with modifying the firmware, there's a line in one of the config files that's something like 'combine_microsteps=4'. This is there to smooth out movement so the printer doesn't jostle around as much. On a delta, you can change this to a 1 & get a quadrupled increase in quality with no repercussions, assuming you can keep the printer leveled & balanced on whatever surface you have it on.
A delta printer is much better for tall, skinny things because of that stationary bed. (You might need to install stiffening components to deal with the tendency of the thing to wobble and/or twist.) Tall, skinny things tend to wave a bit on a moving-bed printer (and can break off entirely in extreme cases). In principle, deltas can be faster, but they're harder to build accurately because,for instance, it doesn't have any way to differentiate between the towers being the wrong distance apart and the bed being tilted, for example. Essentially, it's harder to get dimensional accuracy out of a delta. You also need a better driver board to get better speed because standard g-code uses Cartesian coordinates, but the driver board of a delta has to do a lot of math to convert that into delta motions. Of course, 32-bit driver boards are better for all 3d printers, but they also cost more. Very likely, the reason your Ended ended up being faster is because the Q5 just didn't have enough processing power to do the math fast enough. Incidentally, if you're wishing you could buy the Anycubic Kossel Delta printer that was discontinued a while back, FLSun is currently selling a printer that looks exactly identical to it. I have no idea if it's any good, but it looks the same.
Thank you for this review Neil. The Q5 is a lot more interesting to watch than the Ender, and the setup seemed simpler. I don’t own either at this point, so reviews like this are always useful.
I have both. Ender was harder to put together, I spend some 2 hours to build it but I check everything two or three times (my first printer Anet a8 was disaster because I cut corners). Delta printers are mechanical dancers when working!
Great video. Ive heard so much about 3D Printers but never seen one properly, only on Videos. Who knows what the future holds, maybe a future purchase but not for a while. Enjoyable video Neil.
The on machine speed setting they get over written by the g-code at start up of the print. The on machine setting can be changed when the print is running to allow tweaking and will “stick” for that print. I have been using a Ultimaker 2 for 6 1/2 years now. The number of failed prints can be counted on one paw.
My foray into 3D printing started years ago. I purchased a "cheap as can be" printer at the time, on purpose. I wanted a good hands on look at what the controls looked like and what the electronics were. I took everything that I didn't like and designed/built my own 3D printer, plus I've made changes along the way, and I update/maintain the firmware myself. I do indeed print many things but the largest part of the hobby has been tinkering on the printer itself, well it's what I have the most fun doing. I can tell you that you may want to experiment a bit with how fast that your printer will allow you to print. That % number on there might be completely useless to even adjust because there is hard limit built into the printer's firmware. You can also add auto bed leveling to the Ender, it's much easier than you might think, you're a clever person so I know you'll be able to follow one of the many guides. I can recommend, without reservation, going with a BLtouch probe. I've been using one for a long while now and can attest to its reliability and usefulness. Check out Teaching Tech's videos on all things Ender related, he has a very strong list of very good videos regarding 3D printing and the Ender printer.
This is really interesting to see. I'm considering investing in a 3D printer once I move into my new house - I think I'd get a lot of mileage out of it but currently have no space - and up until now I'd figured I'd go with the Ender. The q5 seems like it would fit nicely in an otherwise unused corner, of which my living room will have a lot, so I'm definitely going to do some more research there!
I don't think this was an apples to apples comparison. The only commonality you've got between the two tests is the model you're printing. I'm not a "Professional" 3D Printer (I just got my printer at the end of Sept 2020) but I've done some limited experimentation with "production" parts for myself. You've upped the speed on the Q5 both through the touch screen and Cura, but not on the Ender. Depending on the quality of print I need, I run my Ender at either 50mm/sec or 150mm/sec for walls. For either type, my Tree supports and infill are run at 150mm/sec. You should also look at the infill percentages as well to make sure that they're both the same, as well as the speeds. You can also change the speeds for each type of function the filament is being laid down for, and there are several. Infill speed, wall speed (Covering outer and inner wall speeds), top layer speeds, etc. These should be checked against between the two printer profiles. If you left the Q5 and Ender at 100% movement and extruder speeds, and you re-run the test, the Ender (I'm betting a Nickel on) would match or beat the Q5. And yes, I would pay S&H on sending you a Canadian Nickel. ;)
Hello Neil and viewers. I have no experience with 3D printing; how strong are the results? I need a few parts (that are rarer than hens' teeth) for an old Kyosho RC car and have been considering getting them 3D printed. They are load bearing suspension parts so need to be quite tough. Any help or advice will be gratefully received :)
You can print incredibly strong parts using materials such as Nylon, Polycarbonate, or semiflex blends. Please note that these filaments usually need to be printed at high temperatures, so low-end printers like the Ender 3, which have a PTFE tube going into the hotend, won't be able to reach.
@@adrianmalkovich7101 the Ender 3 and most printers that can use open source firmware can be easily upgraded to be able to handle those filaments for well under $100.
@@haysoos123 No, you're unfortunately wrong, and in a potentially dangerous way. The problem with these printers is NOT the firmware, the problem is that they have a PTFE tube going to the nozzle. PTFE is safe at temperatures up to around 240°C, so these printers are perfectly safe for printing things like PETG at 235°C. But materials like Nylon need to be printed at around 250-260°C, which is above the safe temperature for PTFE. What does this mean? If the PTFE that goes into the hotend on your Ender 3 is heated up to these temperatures, it will start to release hazardous fumes that can kill pets, and can create something called "teflon flu" in humans. This is extremely unhealthy. And even if you don't care about your own health, it also means that the PTFE tube will burn, eventually causing a clog in your printer. So even if you don't care about getting sick, you should at least care about screwing up your printer :-) I'm guessing from the "100$" point you make is that you're implying that you wouldn't only upgrade your firmware, but you would also upgrade your hotend to an all-metal hotend, which solves the PTFE issue. That's fine, but now you're talking about 3D printing as a hobby, rather than getting a 3D printer as a tool. If you're interested in learning more about 3D printers for their own sake, that's competely valid: get an Ender 3, get an all-metal hotend, tinker around with your printer, that's great, and it's a lot of fun. But if you just want to print functional parts, just buy a Prusa, and avoid all of that.
I am ready to get my first FDM printer and have favoured the FlSun from speed and aesthetics. This is by far the BEST video description of this printer and the comparison with what was my 1st choice till I fell in love with Delta! Other than your channel, is there any sizable community that offers networking to exchange tips, upgrades, etc., even at a fraction to the Ender community? (Oh & Instant Subscribe! Great job & long live ATARI 🖖)
3 hours+ for a palm sized print is insane. Did you go with full infill? I can recommend the delta printers, especially the SuperRacer. It was really easy to build and set up. It was printing spec size straight out of the box and there are no adhesion problems if the nozzle height is correct.
I've been 3D Printing now for 6 months and, WOW, have I learned a lot. I started off wanting to play around with 3D Printing, Laser engraving, CNC. Since I was new I saw the snap maker, pricy, but very similar Dobot MOOZ. I should have watched more videos as I had filament jams and bed adhesion problems. I tried painters tape, glue stick, hair spray and then the cheap Elmer's School Glue. Problem solved. As for filament jams, preheat the nozzle to 200c and make the filament straight as a nail, in fact straighter than a nail, and no more jams. I have to say, maybe because it's driven by drive screws rather than belts but the prints are amazing. In fact my neighbor has a PRUSA and he is stunned. Second printer I got is a SINDOH DP200. This has a cassette auto loading. BUT when you buy filament reloads or swap cassettes it's really no easier than losing filament into the DOBOT. BUT the DOBOT is a module so you do not have to manually load 1 foot of filament through the bowden tube. AND, yes I did get a filament jam in the SINDOH and it is a lot harder to clear the jam in the SINDOH where you have to take off the side panel, then extruder gears and remove the tension gears. The Dobot, I can break down the module in 15 minutes which includes take apart, clear jam, put back together. The SINDOH it's a 1 hr process. Now I got a 3rd printer, DOBOT MOOZ 3 which has 3 extruders and you can swap colors AND blend colors. It's a delta, very small 100x100x100 print volume. My DOBOT MOOZ 2 is 130x130x130 the SINDOH is 200x200x200. Each has a use. The SINDOH for larger prints, the DOBOT MOOZ 2 for smaller prints and the cool laser and CNC and the DOBOT MOOZ 3 for the extremely cool, and works shockingly well, multicolor and blending. I took 3 colors, orange, green and white and as expected it printed a light brown. EXTREMELY cool. And the extruders sit outside the machine so I assume jams will be easy to fix. Cheers and great content.
Thanks for the vid and comparison, not done that one before, on your ender, put a carborundum glass bed, genuine bl touch or the creality own version, both work well and the creality version you wont snap the pin off as its metal, change the air cooler for one on thingiverse that gives almost 360 air on the part and finally change the nozzle to 0.6mm and you will be very happy. When you start up the printer heat quench the bed for about 30 minutes prior to using then do the levelling with the ABL, you will end up with far superior adhesion and very nice prints, all aluminium beds are crap, they are made normally from sheets of aluminum thats been rolled, the only good bed is one that has been milled out of billet aluminium, it will then be level. if you had that you wouldn't need any type of abl at all. Heat quenching is something we use in engineering for all metals , suffice it to say that you heat up the aluminum over time and it allows it to stabilise, expand to its correct amount and reach a full temperature across all 4 corners, without doing that it will be unlevel and only a ABL will be able to sort that out. All 3d printers have this problem some more than others though. I have a bank of several enders and cr10's printing round the clock over here in Barcelona and they are good workhorses. reliable and do their job. You dont need fancy screens to play with them, i hardly ever adjust any settings in the printers using the screen its all done from Octoprint which takes care of pretty much everything I need to do... Two thoughts, wrap the nozzles on your printers in thermal wrap and Kapton tape, that alone stops 99% of clogs, apply a thermal pad to the bottom of the beds to keep the heat in the bed and make it more uniform, its essential on larger printers if you want the big prints to succeed....
This Delta looks quite top heavy, can you screw the bottom to some piece of thick plywood or something to prevent it from tipping over after an accidental bump?
Your leveling issues are exactly the issues I run into with my Anycubic Kossel (which is fairly old now). If you've got a bad delta, they're a headache for leveling and stringing. I've been debating just craigslisting it for cheap and getting an Ender to save myself from it.
I purchased a Anycubic Predator delta. Mistake. Will wind up replacing nearly every part on it because they have all failed. Yikes. Only saving grace was the squartrade warranty. Consider your choices when looking to purchase one and be informed friends. This video makes a fairly strong case for this unit, thanks for going through the process and demonstrating it RMC!
I actually got myself my first 3D printer as a direct result of your previous video --- I had a 'wow, these things are so cheap now!' moment. I eventually settled on a Monoprice Select Mini Pro, mainly because of the small footprint, and am very pleased with it. (While watching your video I was doing final assembly of a 3D-printed spider enclosure.) The one issue is that while it's got inductive autolevelling it doesn't appear to work quite right and I haven't figured out how to level manually. Monoprice make a delta mini printer too, which was the one I really wanted, but I couldn't figure out how to get one in Switzerland (where I live). Now that I've seen you evaluate one, I still want one!
I'm also very much a 3D printing novice and I got myself an Ender 3 Pro after seeing your video and I've so far found it to be an excellent beginner model. While the building of the printer was a bit more involved I found that the build process immediately made me feel more familiar and confident with my printer because I felt like I knew something about it before even trying my first print. The manual bed levelling seemed a bit scary at first, but it's actually not all that bad and don't take any longer than the auto-levelling process you showed for the Q5. In fact, it might even be quicker. I think the best points I've found in favour of the Ender 3 is that it seems very reliable, it's eminently upgradable, and it has a large community of users. As a complete newbie, that last fact has been vary valuable to me.
Maybe take a look at design prototype test youtube channel he goes very in depth on his Q5 and also does a very serious upgrade on it. personallly i have the Q5's bigger brother the QQ-S Pro. I would alos recommend doing the auto leveling with the bed heated to what you would generally print at.
My first printer was a Tevo Tornado. Larger than the ender 3 but very similar. The biggest problem is the first layer. Dialing it in to the perfect height and level is the most important thing. I bought thr FLSUN Q5 for my teenagers. Perfect 1st layer everytime. Solid printing experience. I use Ideamaker from Raise 3D. They have the slicer setting in their library with a PLA slicer template. Worked better than Cura settings. Could share my twiked settings with anyone.
I do support for a (open source) 3D printer hardware company, so I am always interested to watch a 3D printing neophyte figuring it all out. Deltas are fun to watch but can be very finicky. Speed is ultimately limited by extrusion rate. The printers themselves can move much faster than they can melt the plastic. There are ways to calibrate to know how fast you can actually extrude and can balance your layer height and extrusion width with a reasonable speed to stay within. I could go on and on. It's a deep rabbit hole. Good luck on your 3D printing journey.
I approve of the self levelling feature, Not sure I'm a fan of the height though or maybe to my eye the Q5 looks abit top heavy, Seems like the better choice based on price though its much less manual which is always a plus in my book.
Neil, use CHEP's Ender 3 profiles instead. I have an Ender 5 Pro (which is mostly pre-built) and was up and running in short order. The profiles really helped as did calibration prints like squares (lines) to check the levelling and adhesion. I thought it was flat, but that calibration really helped tune it in and I was able to adjust as it printed out. Speed also depends on the nozzle size and how fast the printer can feed in the filament. A glass bed really helps, but I'm mostly getting consistent results.
I just bought a Q-5 and once you get the levelling and cura settings problem sorted, it's quite a good printer. Nothing fancy, but certainly well worth the money.
Seems that the build plate size, and z-capacity is going to be an issue for most (certainly me). I'd also say that you can get 'moar' speed from the Ender if you also tweaked it (I have the CR10s and CR10sPro and can squeeze a lot more out of them with Simplify3D - pretty sure you'd get the same results with the Ender). I'd be cautious when speeding up any printer though - especially where detail is required. I wouldn't agree that this was a sidestep from the Ender, but I do find it intriguing - and, as always, excellent video. :-)
I own the Q5. Awesome machine. I recommend it for every beginner. Beside the hotend fan's (easy to change) it's super quiet and the results are stunning. I usually print at 60mm/s which is fast enough.
PLA itself has no smell. PETG and others apparently do (I've used only PLA) and all should be used in a ventilated room. PLA is the safest to work with, even in an isolated area. Noise though, that depends. With my Ender 3 V2, it became background noise after a bit, but I did eventually move it to another room. There's a fan that's always on at 100% to keep the PSU cool and without an upgrade board it's at 100% speed, then when the extruder warms up, yet another fan kicks into play.
@@danielberrett2179 Thanks for this :) I know next to nothing about them and have seriously considered getting one and this is one of the questions my wife asked me and I had no idea.
It's tough to compare 3D printers because so much always comes down to tuning and to the quality compromises one is willing to accept. I'd be curious to know if the delta would result in improvements in cornering, reduction of wobble after taking a turn, etc. - as one would expect from a low-mass Bowden head - or if having the print head on the end of those rods introduced its own set of wobble issues. But to compare things like that reasonably I guess you'd want to start by getting the two printers to print at the same speed, and it seems like even that was a problem somehow...
Can you please make a video about all the possible replacement parts for retrodevices that could be reproduced with this device? Things like the infamous 1084 controls door, or replacement keycaps etc.? thanks!
I was hoping you might give us some idea of the quality of the finished prints. I have been thinking of getting something like the Creality but I have to say the leveling looks a bit of a nightmare so I am waiting to see if something comes out around the same price that has auto leveling like the machine you reviewed here today. I also was interested to know how you got on with the noise as it sounded to me like the review machine was a lot noisier than the Ender but I am not sure from the video if you had both machines going at the point where it sounded much louder. Sound would be a big part of the buying decision for me. I.e. quieter = better!
I have an flsun qq-pro and it is faster and better than my other 3D printer. But that is after knocking up the print speed in the Cura slicer. It defaults to low speeds for some reason. No idea why when it's quite capable of printing at higher speeds.
I do like this Delta printer in terms of the ease of use features and how easy it is to construct. My only thing against it is the limited size of the prints it can do. It does interest me in what other printers this company does although I would assume that the step up in price to more capable models can be considerable.
I think Deltas are misunderstood by the 3D printing community, sure they have there quirks but so do cartesian printers. I have found that the Delta tends to be faster at infill and the cartesian faster at prints with long shell lines. Also one thing to check when doing the speed comparison is the number of shell line thickness, depending on the profiles you selected the original one for the delta may have been printing more lines.
Because you mention it, regarding parts the ender 3 is _really_ bad and a lot of work to assemble. The CR-6 I got from Creality was literally 6 screws and assembled in 10 minutes (yes I got both ... the CR-6 is my 2nd printer now after the E3 Pro)
Just in case you don't know already, you most likely wont be able to change the speed (feed rate) then start the machine, but will need to adjust the feed rate after the print has started. The machine will likely default to 100% when you start a new program.
If you increase the speed (either in slicer or on the printer) it is a good idea to increase the extrusion temperature otherwise the plastic may not hit full melt temperature and then start to jam up. Also I would guess that the "extruder speed" is badly named, it is really just increasing the amount of plastic extruded so probably better to call it and extrusion multiplier. If you increase the print speed then the extrusion will also be increased to compensate (otherwise it would under-extrude). Realistically if you set both printers in the slicer to the same extrude and movement speeds, then you will get the same print times, with the only differences being the heat-up times of the beds and maybe if one has more or less aggressive acceleration.
deltas (bowden) often underextrude. Print one thingy on 100% speed and another on 200% and weigh both of them. Thingy made faster will most likely be lighter.
I wonder if you could scale your flow rate proportionally to the weight difference and overcome that. A bit of testing could yield a nice chart of flow rate coefficients for known speeds.
Pros' don't use the std printer profiles because they are too safe, so there is probably more in both printers. I'm too lazy to tinker mine, but you might be able to find better profiles on the net.
I think you might find that if you change the speed before starting the print job, the gcode for the model will override it, but if you change the speed while printing you should be good.
Probably worth mentioning that the Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro has a massive community behind it. It makes a difference if you get a bit unstuck and need some help.
I wonder what the best 3D printer would be for things like plastic gears, used in toys and electronics equipment, which are small in size but need high accuracy.
I always have problems with the first layer on my Ender 3...but the worst part about 3D Printing is fusion 360... I am just too dumb for that- especially when it comes to having multiple parts or components in one drawing... and when it comes to the printing itself the speed is actually important to me, mostly because I am not comfortable with my printer running over night and lighting the house on fire...
Now you just need to look at a resin 3d printer. Toxic chemicals, need for murder gloves to handle print cleanup and generous amounts of IPA and UV to harden. I'm considering that route since I plan to use the 3D printer for miniatures and never been happy with the texture you get on the extruder style printers. But for what you use a resin printer would probably be overkill.
I've always wanted to get into 3d printing. I never liked FFF printers though. Too much cleanup and not enough detail. I think resin printers have finally gotten good enough for me to try.
They are much more difficult to learn. My advise is that u start with and fdm ( except: ender 3) as they are the easiest to approach and learn. After u learn how to use an fdm, then go to resin. There is some waste with fdm but after u tune and and tweak ur printer, u can get some really impressive prints.
I love and hate delta printers: from one side they are great with speed, bridging and minute details, on the other end they are a pain to keep all the belt at the same tension and offering a good dimensional accuracy
Thanks for watching a baldy beard man continue his 3D printing journey one step at a time. I'd love to hear your thoughts, what choices did you make, do you like these models or are you steering clear of the models with closed firmware and trying to go down the open source path. There are so many options it can be very confusing, but hopefully this video gives a good reflection of an out of the box experience for the novice.
Neil - RMC
Delta's are something to be suspicious of, if it's not properly designed and setup, it's going to cause really hard to figure out geometry issues (Like printing a box results in a rather more spherical shape). I'd steer anyone interested in the printers towards the Original Prusa printers, that said they are more expensive than say creality printers or other decent chinese brands.
I personally have two CoreXY's, one has chinese electronics with re-configured marlin 2.0 and the other duet 2 maestro. The duet3d boards are amazing, and swapping electronics on 3d printers is surprisingly easy, they just control standard steppers, heaters and temperature probes.
Also good automatic bed leveling is a godsend.
I enjoy these videos! Actually seeing all the use you were getting out of your ender was the final prompt for me to get into 3d printing and I picked up an ender 5 pro. It took me like a week or more of fiddling and experimenting before I began to understand it (glass bed + bltouch for auto leveling were the final pieces to high quality easy prints though!) and its been great. I'm printing retro parts, brackets and cases - but also mini figs and decorative items and I'm thinking our delta printer you're showing is going to really struggle to print at those high speeds for detailed figures with small parts and lots of traveling - but is probably the best for self enclosed things like brackets and parts. If you ever have an experiment I would love to know how well it does trying to print something intricate fast!
To unlock the potential of a lot of Delta style printers, it really requires going into the firmware to make changes to the acceleration and jerk settings, as well as setting up the built-in high speed settings. Open-source firmware (such as Marlin) contain speed settings specifically for Delta printers, so it being closed source makes it difficult to tinker with to perfection. Also, the adjustments that can be made from the touchscreen will increase the speed without compensating for the flow of material, so doing it as you did in Cura is the reliable way to do it. However, any adjustments you make on the touchscreen after the print should be noted, then applied to the settings in Cura for subsequent prints. This way you will have the most accurate gcode file, and you will have room to do adjustments from the touchscreen if you need to further calibrate, because you do not need to set any speed overrides on the printer itself. I wish you luck on your journey!
I'm getting a 3D printer, dont need one but I'm getting one; maybe print random stuff.
Delta printers can move faster. But, there's only so much heat available to melt the plastic. Extrusion speed is the limiting factor. And if you want to print in materials other than PLA, especially flexible material, you have to dial the speed down further.
Changing all the speed settings for any machine wont do much, your limited by the machines acceleration settings, the delta machine will end up significantly faster in the end, alot faster than what you got in this video. Machines like the ender 3 are hard limited by the bed in the Y axis, its alot more inertia than the printhead on the delta machine.
The other thing to remember with Delta printers is that the model itself doesn't move. So. If you spend the time and dial in the settings perfectly you can get really quite amazing prints, since the model won't wobble around once the build plate gets high. And/or loaded with filament.
The Audio & Video Quality + Awesome editing are top-notch, The content was also exactly what I was searching for. Thank you!
Thank you!
at 09:40 is it really that loud during the entire print? ive heard quieter jet aircraft taking off...
Thats what I thought!
No its not. He had noise normalizing on which would boost the volume of it.
Very interesting Neil! I find this subject fascinating but totally confusing...this is the first time I feel like I have some idea what's going on. A win for you!
Tip : don't touch the print bed. The oils from your skin mess with adhesion. You can clean the bed with IPA.
It had a film on it to begin with. He would've had to clean it regardless.
I have my heavily modded Ender 3 BLV with SKR mb and micro swiss direct drive, and Q5 next to it, the Q5 always wins but what impresses me more is the approach by Flsun and making dam good machines at great price points. My Q5 was £130 and I am now looking at the flsun QQ-S over a Ender 5. But the new FLSun V400 looks amazing and I will be looking at one of them when released.
If only we had a 3D printed Trevor the turtle.
Did you use the same G-Code? The delta can actually print faster because of lighter effector. The real test is to find the maximum printing speed that the printer can operate without the belts skipping because of inertia. I have a custom built delta that can print up to 160mm/s without the belts skipping.
I wonder why they moved the power supply and electronics to the top of the unit. I don't think I like the idea of the unit being top heavy. Does the power supply fan run when the unit is plugged in but not switched on? Are the cooling fans quiet? In the QQ-S that I have the power supply fan is always on when the unit is plugged in to the wall and the cooling fan(s) are really loud.
Nice comparison video. Delta printers are fascinating to watch! It was because of your original video about your Ender 3 Pro that I decided to get one myself, but an Ender 3, not the Pro. I've owned it for almost 5 months now, and I've had my ups and downs with it. Even though I did my research and watched lots of RUclips videos about 3D printing before I bought it, I realise now that I didn't really know what I was doing at the beginning! Obviously I'm more experienced now and know all the ins and outs of my printer. I've extensively upgraded and modded it to the point where I can usually just press start and leave it til it's finished printing. The biggest factor in this, and undoubtedly one of the two best things I've bought for it (the other being a mainboard with silent stepper motor drivers) was an auto bed levelling device. I mentioned this in one of the comments on your original video. It only cost me about £20 or so but it was worth every penny! It's a fascinating and sometimes frustrating hobby to get into, but very rewarding when things go right.
If you're down with modifying the firmware, there's a line in one of the config files that's something like 'combine_microsteps=4'. This is there to smooth out movement so the printer doesn't jostle around as much. On a delta, you can change this to a 1 & get a quadrupled increase in quality with no repercussions, assuming you can keep the printer leveled & balanced on whatever surface you have it on.
A delta printer is much better for tall, skinny things because of that stationary bed. (You might need to install stiffening components to deal with the tendency of the thing to wobble and/or twist.) Tall, skinny things tend to wave a bit on a moving-bed printer (and can break off entirely in extreme cases).
In principle, deltas can be faster, but they're harder to build accurately because,for instance, it doesn't have any way to differentiate between the towers being the wrong distance apart and the bed being tilted, for example. Essentially, it's harder to get dimensional accuracy out of a delta.
You also need a better driver board to get better speed because standard g-code uses Cartesian coordinates, but the driver board of a delta has to do a lot of math to convert that into delta motions. Of course, 32-bit driver boards are better for all 3d printers, but they also cost more. Very likely, the reason your Ended ended up being faster is because the Q5 just didn't have enough processing power to do the math fast enough.
Incidentally, if you're wishing you could buy the Anycubic Kossel Delta printer that was discontinued a while back, FLSun is currently selling a printer that looks exactly identical to it. I have no idea if it's any good, but it looks the same.
ooh that was fascinating and watching the Q5 delta is mesmerising . I think i'm going to have to get me a 3d printer now!
Thank you for this review Neil. The Q5 is a lot more interesting to watch than the Ender, and the setup seemed simpler. I don’t own either at this point, so reviews like this are always useful.
I have both. Ender was harder to put together, I spend some 2 hours to build it but I check everything two or three times (my first printer Anet a8 was disaster because I cut corners). Delta printers are mechanical dancers when working!
Great video. Ive heard so much about 3D Printers but never seen one properly, only on Videos. Who knows what the future holds, maybe a future purchase but not for a while. Enjoyable video Neil.
The on machine speed setting they get over written by the g-code at start up of the print. The on machine setting can be changed when the print is running to allow tweaking and will “stick” for that print. I have been using a Ultimaker 2 for 6 1/2 years now. The number of failed prints can be counted on one paw.
I haven't used my other printers since I got my Q5 (7 months).
The delta one did have a cool robotic look to it, for the price and easy set up. It does look an appealing choice.
My foray into 3D printing started years ago. I purchased a "cheap as can be" printer at the time, on purpose. I wanted a good hands on look at what the controls looked like and what the electronics were. I took everything that I didn't like and designed/built my own 3D printer, plus I've made changes along the way, and I update/maintain the firmware myself. I do indeed print many things but the largest part of the hobby has been tinkering on the printer itself, well it's what I have the most fun doing. I can tell you that you may want to experiment a bit with how fast that your printer will allow you to print. That % number on there might be completely useless to even adjust because there is hard limit built into the printer's firmware. You can also add auto bed leveling to the Ender, it's much easier than you might think, you're a clever person so I know you'll be able to follow one of the many guides. I can recommend, without reservation, going with a BLtouch probe. I've been using one for a long while now and can attest to its reliability and usefulness. Check out Teaching Tech's videos on all things Ender related, he has a very strong list of very good videos regarding 3D printing and the Ender printer.
RMC: Well you know I have two of them.
KId: Wow you must be rich!
Lorraine's Mum: He's teasing you. Nobody has two 3D printers!
2015 kid: you gotta use your hands? That 3D printer's for babies!
This is really interesting to see. I'm considering investing in a 3D printer once I move into my new house - I think I'd get a lot of mileage out of it but currently have no space - and up until now I'd figured I'd go with the Ender. The q5 seems like it would fit nicely in an otherwise unused corner, of which my living room will have a lot, so I'm definitely going to do some more research there!
Love the old computer collection in the background, what is the one on the middle shelf???
Question though; have you tried printing the Eiffel tower on the Q5 again? Can it do it? Or will it always screw up?
Great video! Nice to see the two compared like this. I've been thinking more and more about getting in to 3D printing and this really helps!
I don't think this was an apples to apples comparison. The only commonality you've got between the two tests is the model you're printing. I'm not a "Professional" 3D Printer (I just got my printer at the end of Sept 2020) but I've done some limited experimentation with "production" parts for myself.
You've upped the speed on the Q5 both through the touch screen and Cura, but not on the Ender. Depending on the quality of print I need, I run my Ender at either 50mm/sec or 150mm/sec for walls. For either type, my Tree supports and infill are run at 150mm/sec. You should also look at the infill percentages as well to make sure that they're both the same, as well as the speeds.
You can also change the speeds for each type of function the filament is being laid down for, and there are several. Infill speed, wall speed (Covering outer and inner wall speeds), top layer speeds, etc. These should be checked against between the two printer profiles.
If you left the Q5 and Ender at 100% movement and extruder speeds, and you re-run the test, the Ender (I'm betting a Nickel on) would match or beat the Q5.
And yes, I would pay S&H on sending you a Canadian Nickel. ;)
Hello Neil and viewers. I have no experience with 3D printing; how strong are the results? I need a few parts (that are rarer than hens' teeth) for an old Kyosho RC car and have been considering getting them 3D printed. They are load bearing suspension parts so need to be quite tough. Any help or advice will be gratefully received :)
You can print incredibly strong parts using materials such as Nylon, Polycarbonate, or semiflex blends. Please note that these filaments usually need to be printed at high temperatures, so low-end printers like the Ender 3, which have a PTFE tube going into the hotend, won't be able to reach.
@@adrianmalkovich7101 the Ender 3 and most printers that can use open source firmware can be easily upgraded to be able to handle those filaments for well under $100.
@@haysoos123 No, you're unfortunately wrong, and in a potentially dangerous way. The problem with these printers is NOT the firmware, the problem is that they have a PTFE tube going to the nozzle. PTFE is safe at temperatures up to around 240°C, so these printers are perfectly safe for printing things like PETG at 235°C. But materials like Nylon need to be printed at around 250-260°C, which is above the safe temperature for PTFE.
What does this mean? If the PTFE that goes into the hotend on your Ender 3 is heated up to these temperatures, it will start to release hazardous fumes that can kill pets, and can create something called "teflon flu" in humans. This is extremely unhealthy.
And even if you don't care about your own health, it also means that the PTFE tube will burn, eventually causing a clog in your printer. So even if you don't care about getting sick, you should at least care about screwing up your printer :-)
I'm guessing from the "100$" point you make is that you're implying that you wouldn't only upgrade your firmware, but you would also upgrade your hotend to an all-metal hotend, which solves the PTFE issue. That's fine, but now you're talking about 3D printing as a hobby, rather than getting a 3D printer as a tool. If you're interested in learning more about 3D printers for their own sake, that's competely valid: get an Ender 3, get an all-metal hotend, tinker around with your printer, that's great, and it's a lot of fun.
But if you just want to print functional parts, just buy a Prusa, and avoid all of that.
I am ready to get my first FDM printer and have favoured the FlSun from speed and aesthetics.
This is by far the BEST video description of this printer and the comparison with what was my 1st choice till I fell in love with Delta!
Other than your channel, is there any sizable community that offers networking to exchange tips, upgrades, etc., even at a fraction to the Ender community?
(Oh & Instant Subscribe! Great job & long live ATARI 🖖)
3 hours+ for a palm sized print is insane. Did you go with full infill?
I can recommend the delta printers, especially the SuperRacer. It was really easy to build and set up. It was printing spec size straight out of the box and there are no adhesion problems if the nozzle height is correct.
I've been 3D Printing now for 6 months and, WOW, have I learned a lot. I started off wanting to play around with 3D Printing, Laser engraving, CNC. Since I was new I saw the snap maker, pricy, but very similar Dobot MOOZ. I should have watched more videos as I had filament jams and bed adhesion problems. I tried painters tape, glue stick, hair spray and then the cheap Elmer's School Glue. Problem solved. As for filament jams, preheat the nozzle to 200c and make the filament straight as a nail, in fact straighter than a nail, and no more jams. I have to say, maybe because it's driven by drive screws rather than belts but the prints are amazing. In fact my neighbor has a PRUSA and he is stunned. Second printer I got is a SINDOH DP200. This has a cassette auto loading. BUT when you buy filament reloads or swap cassettes it's really no easier than losing filament into the DOBOT. BUT the DOBOT is a module so you do not have to manually load 1 foot of filament through the bowden tube. AND, yes I did get a filament jam in the SINDOH and it is a lot harder to clear the jam in the SINDOH where you have to take off the side panel, then extruder gears and remove the tension gears. The Dobot, I can break down the module in 15 minutes which includes take apart, clear jam, put back together. The SINDOH it's a 1 hr process. Now I got a 3rd printer, DOBOT MOOZ 3 which has 3 extruders and you can swap colors AND blend colors. It's a delta, very small 100x100x100 print volume. My DOBOT MOOZ 2 is 130x130x130 the SINDOH is 200x200x200. Each has a use. The SINDOH for larger prints, the DOBOT MOOZ 2 for smaller prints and the cool laser and CNC and the DOBOT MOOZ 3 for the extremely cool, and works shockingly well, multicolor and blending. I took 3 colors, orange, green and white and as expected it printed a light brown. EXTREMELY cool. And the extruders sit outside the machine so I assume jams will be easy to fix. Cheers and great content.
Thanks for the vid and comparison, not done that one before, on your ender, put a carborundum glass bed, genuine bl touch or the creality own version, both work well and the creality version you wont snap the pin off as its metal, change the air cooler for one on thingiverse that gives almost 360 air on the part and finally change the nozzle to 0.6mm and you will be very happy.
When you start up the printer heat quench the bed for about 30 minutes prior to using then do the levelling with the ABL, you will end up with far superior adhesion and very nice prints, all aluminium beds are crap, they are made normally from sheets of aluminum thats been rolled, the only good bed is one that has been milled out of billet aluminium, it will then be level. if you had that you wouldn't need any type of abl at all.
Heat quenching is something we use in engineering for all metals , suffice it to say that you heat up the aluminum over time and it allows it to stabilise, expand to its correct amount and reach a full temperature across all 4 corners, without doing that it will be unlevel and only a ABL will be able to sort that out.
All 3d printers have this problem some more than others though. I have a bank of several enders and cr10's printing round the clock over here in Barcelona and they are good workhorses. reliable and do their job. You dont need fancy screens to play with them, i hardly ever adjust any settings in the printers using the screen its all done from Octoprint which takes care of pretty much everything I need to do...
Two thoughts, wrap the nozzles on your printers in thermal wrap and Kapton tape, that alone stops 99% of clogs, apply a thermal pad to the bottom of the beds to keep the heat in the bed and make it more uniform, its essential on larger printers if you want the big prints to succeed....
I think I've found my 3D printer. Thank You for reviewing it mate!!
Did you do it?
Im about to purchase (as my 1st)
What were your pros & cons?
This Delta looks quite top heavy, can you screw the bottom to some piece of thick plywood or something to prevent it from tipping over after an accidental bump?
It make heavy on top for lowering the wingle during print not stationary
Your leveling issues are exactly the issues I run into with my Anycubic Kossel (which is fairly old now). If you've got a bad delta, they're a headache for leveling and stringing. I've been debating just craigslisting it for cheap and getting an Ender to save myself from it.
Now you just need a shed for each printer and you’ll be an honorary Python.
He's not the 3D Printing Messiah...
nice review Neil i love my 3d printer and would never be without one
I've always wanted to enter the world of 3D printing Neil. Thank you for this review.. it's piqued my interest even further mate. atb
If you do go for a 3d printer, just make sure you install Marlin to be sure you get proper thermal runaway protection.
Check the top / bottom thickness in cura, it makes a huge difference. ive found it defaults to more on a new profile.
I purchased a Anycubic Predator delta. Mistake. Will wind up replacing nearly every part on it because they have all failed. Yikes. Only saving grace was the squartrade warranty. Consider your choices when looking to purchase one and be informed friends. This video makes a fairly strong case for this unit, thanks for going through the process and demonstrating it RMC!
I actually got myself my first 3D printer as a direct result of your previous video --- I had a 'wow, these things are so cheap now!' moment. I eventually settled on a Monoprice Select Mini Pro, mainly because of the small footprint, and am very pleased with it. (While watching your video I was doing final assembly of a 3D-printed spider enclosure.) The one issue is that while it's got inductive autolevelling it doesn't appear to work quite right and I haven't figured out how to level manually. Monoprice make a delta mini printer too, which was the one I really wanted, but I couldn't figure out how to get one in Switzerland (where I live). Now that I've seen you evaluate one, I still want one!
I'm also very much a 3D printing novice and I got myself an Ender 3 Pro after seeing your video and I've so far found it to be an excellent beginner model.
While the building of the printer was a bit more involved I found that the build process immediately made me feel more familiar and confident with my printer because I felt like I knew something about it before even trying my first print.
The manual bed levelling seemed a bit scary at first, but it's actually not all that bad and don't take any longer than the auto-levelling process you showed for the Q5. In fact, it might even be quicker.
I think the best points I've found in favour of the Ender 3 is that it seems very reliable, it's eminently upgradable, and it has a large community of users. As a complete newbie, that last fact has been vary valuable to me.
any chance you could make a video about the 3D software you are using to create the 3D items
Maybe take a look at design prototype test youtube channel he goes very in depth on his Q5 and also does a very serious upgrade on it. personallly i have the Q5's bigger brother the QQ-S Pro. I would alos recommend doing the auto leveling with the bed heated to what you would generally print at.
Sweet, I didn't know you were into 3D printing too! Even more reasons to watch the channel.
My first printer was a Tevo Tornado. Larger than the ender 3 but very similar. The biggest problem is the first layer. Dialing it in to the perfect height and level is the most important thing. I bought thr FLSUN Q5 for my teenagers. Perfect 1st layer everytime. Solid printing experience. I use Ideamaker from Raise 3D. They have the slicer setting in their library with a PLA slicer template. Worked better than Cura settings. Could share my twiked settings with anyone.
I do support for a (open source) 3D printer hardware company, so I am always interested to watch a 3D printing neophyte figuring it all out. Deltas are fun to watch but can be very finicky. Speed is ultimately limited by extrusion rate. The printers themselves can move much faster than they can melt the plastic. There are ways to calibrate to know how fast you can actually extrude and can balance your layer height and extrusion width with a reasonable speed to stay within. I could go on and on. It's a deep rabbit hole. Good luck on your 3D printing journey.
I approve of the self levelling feature, Not sure I'm a fan of the height though or maybe to my eye the Q5 looks abit top heavy, Seems like the better choice based on price though its much less manual which is always a plus in my book.
The footprint is much neater as well as being smaller. It just looks better all round.
Neil, use CHEP's Ender 3 profiles instead. I have an Ender 5 Pro (which is mostly pre-built) and was up and running in short order. The profiles really helped as did calibration prints like squares (lines) to check the levelling and adhesion. I thought it was flat, but that calibration really helped tune it in and I was able to adjust as it printed out. Speed also depends on the nozzle size and how fast the printer can feed in the filament. A glass bed really helps, but I'm mostly getting consistent results.
I just bought a Q-5 and once you get the levelling and cura settings problem sorted, it's quite a good printer. Nothing fancy, but certainly well worth the money.
Seems that the build plate size, and z-capacity is going to be an issue for most (certainly me). I'd also say that you can get 'moar' speed from the Ender if you also tweaked it (I have the CR10s and CR10sPro and can squeeze a lot more out of them with Simplify3D - pretty sure you'd get the same results with the Ender). I'd be cautious when speeding up any printer though - especially where detail is required.
I wouldn't agree that this was a sidestep from the Ender, but I do find it intriguing - and, as always, excellent video. :-)
Speed rates tuning etc from the device control box itself usually need to be set Once the print has started.
Ender 3 series has a babystep setting in the "tune" to move the z axis while printing to ensure bed adhesion
I own the Q5. Awesome machine. I recommend it for every beginner. Beside the hotend fan's (easy to change) it's super quiet and the results are stunning. I usually print at 60mm/s which is fast enough.
Lots of great info I need whilst thinking about getting my first 3D printer but more importantly, where can I get that Commodore clock?
Being a complete novice I am curious as to which of the two makes the most noise and which one is the smelliest when printing?
Smell depends on the actual filament used.
PLA itself has no smell. PETG and others apparently do (I've used only PLA) and all should be used in a ventilated room. PLA is the safest to work with, even in an isolated area. Noise though, that depends. With my Ender 3 V2, it became background noise after a bit, but I did eventually move it to another room. There's a fan that's always on at 100% to keep the PSU cool and without an upgrade board it's at 100% speed, then when the extruder warms up, yet another fan kicks into play.
@@danielberrett2179 Thanks for this :) I know next to nothing about them and have seriously considered getting one and this is one of the questions my wife asked me and I had no idea.
@@Mr76Pontiac Many thanks as this will help when deciding where to put one when I get one :)
It's tough to compare 3D printers because so much always comes down to tuning and to the quality compromises one is willing to accept. I'd be curious to know if the delta would result in improvements in cornering, reduction of wobble after taking a turn, etc. - as one would expect from a low-mass Bowden head - or if having the print head on the end of those rods introduced its own set of wobble issues.
But to compare things like that reasonably I guess you'd want to start by getting the two printers to print at the same speed, and it seems like even that was a problem somehow...
GThe previous bed warped.. what material was it made of ? You only menstion what this one's plate was made of.
6:50 no-no, we don't touch the bed with our oily fingers. It's bad for print adhesion.
Can you please make a video about all the possible replacement parts for retrodevices that could be reproduced with this device? Things like the infamous 1084 controls door, or replacement keycaps etc.? thanks!
Did anyone else thought they already watched this new video because of the red frame around the thumbnail? i almost missed this XD
I didn't notice the frame for this video, but it's happened to me before. Content creators, take note!
It's really hard to have just the one 3d printer ! Will you look at resin ?
I was hoping you might give us some idea of the quality of the finished prints. I have been thinking of getting something like the Creality but I have to say the leveling looks a bit of a nightmare so I am waiting to see if something comes out around the same price that has auto leveling like the machine you reviewed here today. I also was interested to know how you got on with the noise as it sounded to me like the review machine was a lot noisier than the Ender but I am not sure from the video if you had both machines going at the point where it sounded much louder. Sound would be a big part of the buying decision for me. I.e. quieter = better!
Hi Neil,
i just built a prusa i3 mk3s, its fantastic, and glad my recommendation on the ender 3 pro on discord sent you down the 3D print path ;)
I have an flsun qq-pro and it is faster and better than my other 3D printer. But that is after knocking up the print speed in the Cura slicer. It defaults to low speeds for some reason. No idea why when it's quite capable of printing at higher speeds.
I do like this Delta printer in terms of the ease of use features and how easy it is to construct. My only thing against it is the limited size of the prints it can do. It does interest me in what other printers this company does although I would assume that the step up in price to more capable models can be considerable.
Watching this whilst my q5 produces its first boat!
Always love the music on your vids
Can anyone tell me what that little red computer with the black and white keyboard in the background is, please? It's next to the Gameboy.
That's a French computer called Alice
@@RMCRetro Thanks.:-)
Is the build plate heated?
Am I the only one who kept wincing when he would wipe his hand all over the print bed? No, you're getting oil on that bed!!! :-) Great comparison vid!
I think Deltas are misunderstood by the 3D printing community, sure they have there quirks but so do cartesian printers. I have found that the Delta tends to be faster at infill and the cartesian faster at prints with long shell lines.
Also one thing to check when doing the speed comparison is the number of shell line thickness, depending on the profiles you selected the original one for the delta may have been printing more lines.
Because you mention it, regarding parts the ender 3 is _really_ bad and a lot of work to assemble. The CR-6 I got from Creality was literally 6 screws and assembled in 10 minutes (yes I got both ... the CR-6 is my 2nd printer now after the E3 Pro)
Just in case you don't know already, you most likely wont be able to change the speed (feed rate) then start the machine, but will need to adjust the feed rate after the print has started. The machine will likely default to 100% when you start a new program.
what were your accel
Arthur "two 3d printers" Jackson
I bet he didn't even write his symphonies with the printer.
I wonder if he uses a printer in each shed.
If you increase the speed (either in slicer or on the printer) it is a good idea to increase the extrusion temperature otherwise the plastic may not hit full melt temperature and then start to jam up. Also I would guess that the "extruder speed" is badly named, it is really just increasing the amount of plastic extruded so probably better to call it and extrusion multiplier. If you increase the print speed then the extrusion will also be increased to compensate (otherwise it would under-extrude).
Realistically if you set both printers in the slicer to the same extrude and movement speeds, then you will get the same print times, with the only differences being the heat-up times of the beds and maybe if one has more or less aggressive acceleration.
Excellent video, sir!
That's an interesting design to that printer. I wonder how well it would hold up long term.
What would you see as a potential point of failure?
I'd go with the FLSUN simply because it looks like an alien robot spider.
Can we 3D a replacement Cave?
Any updates on the search?
I think I have secured an amazing place, paperwork pending so I can't say any more until I'm 100% sure, thanks for asking
deltas (bowden) often underextrude. Print one thingy on 100% speed and another on 200% and weigh both of them. Thingy made faster will most likely be lighter.
I wonder if you could scale your flow rate proportionally to the weight difference and overcome that. A bit of testing could yield a nice chart of flow rate coefficients for known speeds.
6:40 [Launches the thing onto the floor]
"Okay Cave-Dwellers, we're doing an Ender 3 demo"
Pros' don't use the std printer profiles because they are too safe, so there is probably more in both printers. I'm too lazy to tinker mine, but you might be able to find better profiles on the net.
Which one is the noisiest?
I think you might find that if you change the speed before starting the print job, the gcode for the model will override it, but if you change the speed while printing you should be good.
I have owned both kinds. They both have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Looks like a meanwell PSU in there, good start.
I suggest you take a look at the tronxy xyz pro.
Probably worth mentioning that the Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro has a massive community behind it. It makes a difference if you get a bit unstuck and need some help.
Just got given an E3D Nano as a present - it's tiny and comes ready to print. Great entry into the hobby,, even with a very small build area. :-)
I wonder what the best 3D printer would be for things like plastic gears, used in toys and electronics equipment, which are small in size but need high accuracy.
I always have problems with the first layer on my Ender 3...but the worst part about 3D Printing is fusion 360... I am just too dumb for that- especially when it comes to having multiple parts or components in one drawing... and when it comes to the printing itself the speed is actually important to me, mostly because I am not comfortable with my printer running over night and lighting the house on fire...
I really wish all 3d printer firmwares disable the hotend fan below 70 degrees, so annoying to have that fan noise when it's not printing.
Caveman : So let me show how the autoleveling works and I will comment as we proceed...
Fan : No you won't.
Fan not aircraft carrier? Surprising.
Auto (audio) levelling?
Now you just need to look at a resin 3d printer. Toxic chemicals, need for murder gloves to handle print cleanup and generous amounts of IPA and UV to harden. I'm considering that route since I plan to use the 3D printer for miniatures and never been happy with the texture you get on the extruder style printers. But for what you use a resin printer would probably be overkill.
I've always wanted to get into 3d printing. I never liked FFF printers though. Too much cleanup and not enough detail. I think resin printers have finally gotten good enough for me to try.
They are much more difficult to learn. My advise is that u start with and fdm ( except: ender 3) as they are the easiest to approach and learn. After u learn how to use an fdm, then go to resin. There is some waste with fdm but after u tune and and tweak ur printer, u can get some really impressive prints.
I love and hate delta printers: from one side they are great with speed, bridging and minute details, on the other end they are a pain to keep all the belt at the same tension and offering a good dimensional accuracy
You should do one on the entry level Resin printers.
Next step is to add CoreXY/H-bot style 3D printer to your collection.
And resin.