I bought a Q5 6 weeks ago, and it is impressive. All of the points in the review are correct: - Underextrusion can be fixed with a 110-115% standard flow rate - Cooling and noise are easily addressed with a Noctua replacement fan, silicone sock, and custom printed shroud and duct from Thingiverse - The mainboard is fine unless you want to do extremely fast printing. Replacing the extruder stepper driver is another easy quality of life upgrade. - I finished all upgrades and I now have a very fast and silent printer that has equal or better quality than the Ender 3, takes up far less space and prints almost twice as fast - DELTAS ARE MESMERIZING. Your friends will think you spent $2000. They seem so amazingly smooth and robotic. It is science fiction in motion. Poetic to watch...
One other upside of note, perhaps - The table footprint appears to be very small for its build volume, which might be a significant advantage to a maker with a very limited shop space.
Yes, I currently have one sitting on about a 30cm shelf. It actually performs beautifully once you get it dialed in. I always set flow rate at 115% and underextrusion problems have disappearred. I believe shortening the tube and replacing with Capricorn tubing will achieve the same result. I just purchased a Noctua replacement fan and printed a custom shroud and duct. A silicone sock assists in cooling as well. I am actually amazed at the quality it can deliver at high speeds. I am seeing Ender 3 quality at 70% of print times. Delta printers are so cool that you can tell your friends it cost $2000 and they will believe you. It is mesmerizing how they move.
This only matters if you use a 2D space to compare a 3D volume. In this matter, I could build any 3D printer as a skyscraper and meet the same criteria. The taller I make it, since you're ignoring this axis entirely in this comparison, the larger the ratio of "footprint to build volume" you have. It's not a really good way to compare printers.
@@ThantiK While I agree it's not the whole story, X/Y volume on a tabletop in a shop is typically *significantly* more limited than Z volume, given that very few people have ~5-6ft in X or Y to spare on a table, compared to basically everyone having that available in Z. X/Y area tends to be more valuable in terms of storage in a small shop compared to total volume.
It is a very good value. Easily worth the novelty value of watching a Delta work away. As a Kossel owner, you know the “Wow” factor a Delta creates. I love it.
I bought one a few weeks ago and I agree 90% with you but have some suggestions for you. A silent stepper for the extruder is probably going to be my first upgrade. My machine seems to have less problems than yours though, I have a suggestion for you: I used a similarly sized filament roll, and it was printing next to me when I noticed some strange noises. It was the filament roll not rolling well on the squared holder... worst shape for a filament holder. I designed and printed a spool holder for the roll itself to essentially make the I.D. of the filament roll 30mm and all prints improved and it got a little quieter. I made a holder for the holder... but the large I.D. also effects my A10T so everyone gets a holder! I have 15 1kg rolls, trust me it works WONDERS. I won't post a thingiverse link unless someone wants it, this isn't spam for my thingiverse haha. I have another tip for anyone trying to use post script commands like "pause at". You have to use the BQ "method" (only one available in Cura that worked for me). It works though, I have 2 nuts embedded in my new shift knob as proof! I love this printer! Like you said it's "90%" and I can agree with that. Then again 100% probably would've been another $100! Good review, thanks!
I bought the FLSun Q5 based primarily on this video, but I did watch others. It is my first printer. I had it built in a half hour and have been very pleased overall with it's simplicity. The only problems I've encountered have been my slicing and gcode, not the printer. Yes the cooling fan is loud. Almost as loud as my PC after playing KSP for an hour. I think the Q5 will make a nice backup printer one day when my modeling skills require a higher resolution printer. This is only a hobby for me and I'm happy with a simpler machine that's less intimidating without all those mods and features that I'm supposed to need. With my skill set, I could have a $28k printer and my prints wouldn't look any different. Thanks Stefan for an honest review and opinion of the FLSun Q5. I am very happy with my printer. FWIW; I bought the Q5, four 1kg rolls of PLA, and the Sunlu S1 filament drier for less than an Ender 5 Pro and nothing else.
First of, sorry for probably some strange grammar, but I'm german and I don't have much practice speaking english after I finished school 20 years ago. ;-) I bought the FLSUN Q5 end of april. It was my first 3D printer (and so far only one). One of the reasons I chosed it was the small footprint, because i have limited space on my desk and no other option of placing it at the moment. The other reason was the affordable price. I would have been capable of spending more, but my first try on 3D printing shouldn't be that expensive in case it turns out I don't use it as much or it turns out 3D printing is just not working for me. But I'm very glad I dared to try it, after quite some time of arguing with myself. My experience with that printer is equal to your review. It has some quirks, but it still does decent job and the price tag is well placed. I bought a better bowden tube as I had the same thought about it as you, but I didn't installed it so far. Same for a flex plate. I bought one because the adhesion on big parts can be so strong, I was able to lift the whole printer while only holding the printed part and once it took me 10 minutes to get my part off without damaging something. That depends on the filament though. Some just snap of once the print is finished and the build plate cools down and just wait to be taken of. Next thing I want to change is that hot end cooler. It is quite loud. Even though it doesn't bother me as much because it is a steady noise, I think a little bit optimisation is worth it. Maybe a better mainboard will come after that. I noticed the little blobs, but didn't know how to handle them. I saw a video of... i believe it was Chep, where he showed a solution with Cura settigs, but my settings already watched good in that regard. A better board might be the right solution here. That would handle the firmware "problem" as well. And by problem I mean the proprietary part. That could be a good opportunity to upgrade the extruder stepper driver as well. As with many printers you can make them a little bit better with self printed parts. Most importantly the part cooling. The fan only blowing from one side makes overhangs from the right quite good but realy bad from the left side. I printed this replacement: bit.ly/30xcqF2 (thingiverse link) That made my overhangs way better. Meanwhile there is another design where the fan duct is easily detachable but I have not printed it yet. Another thing i did was printing these little hooks from thingiverse: bit.ly/2CzbNTa My studs had a slight rattling noise. The rubberbands fixed this. But that didn't affact print quality as far as I can tell. Last I made this carriage covers from thingiverse: bit.ly/2E2slTX Just to have less moving weight. For the same reason I want to try printing the support frame for the hotend and partcooling fan. But that have wait until I have the time and mood for it. ;-) I think the biggest downside of a delta printer can be the round build plate. This one has a diameter of 20cm. I think it is decent and works for many parts. But as soon as you have something with a rectangular footprint it can be an issue. Largest one I designed myself and printed so far was a Nintendo switch stand. It is 164mm wide and 72mm in depth. That was pretty near to the edges, leving only a little bit space for the purge skirt. On a "similar sized" cartesian printer with a 20cm x 20cm print bed you could print two of them at the same time and still have room for some other smaller parts if you so desire. But a cartesian printer with that printbed would take more place on the desk as well. So you can't realy compare 20cm diameter with 20x20 rectangular. But I think just because of the same number some people might expect kind of the same build size you can achive. Last but not least I want to thank you for your awesome channel. This is one of the channels that tought me quite a bit about 3D printing and made my life easier. Update: A small Update down in the further comments.
Ich hab dir den auch neulich geholt und gleich die Lüfter gewechselt. Das einzige Problem das ich habe ist das die Drucke in x 1% in y 2% zu groß sind und in z eher zu klein. Hast du eine Idee was man da tun kann?
Update: I have to make a small update. All of the above is correct, but I noticed something on the part with the little blobs. As Stefan noticed, the blobs on round surfaces happen because the printer makes small stops due to not enough processing power. That was never a big issue for me because in the beginning I mostly printed decorative parts. These parts where printed slowly, mostly at 30 mm/s. At this speed there are barely any blobs. Meanwhile I noticed, that they introduce at about 40 mm/s. At 60 mm/s the survice beomes quite rough due to uneven printed walls. At 80mm/s the printer doesn't make small pauses anymore. It becomes very noticible stuttering. The print of a bowl at this speed was horrible and very ugly. Straight walls and corners on the other hand are still good at 80mm/s. So it's just an issue with round objects. I already have a new mainboard laying around (had nothing else I wanted for christmas so a free upgrade), but I'm lacking the time to work on the printer. Planing on doing some test cylinders for a comparision of before and after the upgrade.
@@BBFPV Entschuldigung, habe die Benachrichtigung über den Kommentar wohl übersehen. Ich bin selbst noch neu beim 3D Druck, aber so wie ich das bisher mitbekommen habe, ist es nicht so einfach die Stock Firmware zu ändern. Aber in der Hinsicht habe ich eh noch keine Erfahrung und könnte da keine Tipps geben. Spontan würde ich sagen ist es am einfachsten wenn du in deinem Slicer die Größe von Objekten in X auf 99% und in Y auf 98% stellst und schaust ob es dann korrekt ist. Was die Z Achse angeht könnte es auch sein, dass du zu zu niedrig gelevelt hast. Cura hat als Standardeinstellung, dass die erste Schicht mit 0,3 mm Dicke gedruckt werden soll. Hast du aber niedriger gelevelt so das z.B. nur 0.2 über bleiben ist der Druck also knapp zu niedrig. Nun sind die Druckbetten aber auch nie 100% eben, so dass unter Umständen so vorgegangen werden muss um überall eine gute Haftung zu gewährleisten. In dem Fall kann ein Raft helfen. Das Raft bügelt dann die Unebenheiten aus und der Druck oben drauf sollte dann entsprechend genau sein. Tritt auch dann noch eine regelmäßige Abweichung auf, kannst du natürlich auch Z auf z.B 101% skalieren. Ich habe auch an vielen Stellen schon gelesen, dass sie das Problem haben, das z.B. von einem Viereck zwei Seiten schön gerade sind, die anderen beiden aber leicht gebogen. Davon bin ich nicht betroffen. Vielleicht eine Frage von Firmware Updates. Aber da man das nicht über Slicer Settings Ändern kann, war bei diesen Leuten die einzige Lösung sich ein neues Mainboard ein zu bauen, welches die Möglichkeit gab den Drucker entsprechend zu kalibrieren.
@@JelleGrutterink Hi, I made a little update here in the comments regarding print speed and quality. Maybe it is no longer an issue due to a possible newer hardware revision. But I wanted to share that additional experience I made so far.
Is there going to be a video of upgrading this machine? I'd love to see how that is done. It seems like a good machine, and I am thinking about getting one. Well, I'd really like to get it. I love watching deltas print, I've stared at them for over an hour before just watching them move so this would be an awesome printer to have.
This is the first printer I bought (and only one I own) and it has been very easy to set up and use. took some messing around with slicer settings and learning what sort of things can and can't be 3D printed but I'd say it's fast and easy.
Duet is such a good Upgrade for these Delta / Kossel style Printers. Upgraded my Anycubic Kossel to an duetwifi2, Printspeeds of around 150mm/s and Movement around 400mm/s are no Problem for big parts.
Great upgrade unless your printer cheaper than Duet. At first everyone should try to upgrade to 3-5 cheaper boards before buying Duet. It seems there full industry for those who bought cheapest printers.
What's the point? :)) It's not a cheap mobo... If you're about printing more than about tinkering (your machine) then it's better to start with a decent h-bot. It will be faster and much more reliable (and understandable!).
Hi, thanks for this review, if i had not yet bought one, i think i had been convinced to do it! As you said, i choose it because it is so easy to assemble for a first 3D printer, the ratio between printing/printer volume is very good as it is a delta printer! And the dance of the head and arms of a delta printer during printing as something hypnotic... It also have a very good printing quality out of the box ( tmc2208 are already installed for axes), and is relatively quiet compare to printer of the same price range. The spool holder is the first thing to change, it is so easy to print a good one! Then i've installed a tmc2209 for the extruder and it become completly quiet ( change motor direction and put extruder max acceleration to 250 in firmware). Now i can only ear the fans, and it is difficult to find a good 24v replacement ( i've tested some noctua and noiseblocker 12v with buck converter, but then they are not powerfull enought compare to stock fans). There is a good program (certainly made by FLSun) that almost automaticaly calibrate prinitng dimensions ( you enter the theorical and reel dimension of a test print, that's it):facebook.com/groups/120961628750040/permalink/708716593307871/
I have had one for a couple of months now and I am really happy with it. I'm using simplify for my slicing and have never experienced the blobs shown in the video. Regarding the under extrusion I did have a little of that but that was quickly fixed by bumping the extrusion multiplier up a bit. I just held a workshop at a school and it was perfect for transportation as it is really light and the students were very impressed by the movement system. The speed curtainly made it easier to pump out some useful parts the the students to print home. I have the machine sitting on my desk and I forget that it's even there at times and I don't think it will be coming down any time soon 😊
I experienced the same underextrusion problem you described. It got better when I switched to a capricorn bowden tube an increased the extrusion multiplier. After some (ok a lot) slicer profile tuning I now have a really good printer for the price. Another big pro of this printer is the small footprints - it's only 1,5 normal printer papers big. Another pro is that it looks really cool during printing, even my wife likes it. All in all I can recommend the printer.
With it's footprint so small, you could make an enclosure using just a large pipe from the home store. Size and cost would make this an easy sell for me.
I bought one a week or two ago and I have to say I am quite happy. As far as the fan noise I do not find objectionable. Steppers are quite quiet except for the extruder and it is not that bad.
Just got mine a few days ago. I’m really happy so far. I replaced the filament holder with one on thingiverse. Great value for money. We’ll see how it holds up.
I am 6 weeks in...still quite happy. The issues I have had are not really the printer. I recommend a higher than 100% flow rate, however. The long tube can create resistance on tall prints. At 115%, the print can accept the extra material, no problem, but underextrusion never happens. You get a stronger print and better consistency. It is extremely fast in vase mode. You can do 100mm/s and not see any degradation.
I got one about 2 weeks ago. Lube the ball joints. Watch that the tube doesn't get in the way of the homing switches. Changing some of the settings during a print causes the machine pause very briefly. The stepper motors on mine are not all that quiet, much louder than my CR-10 with a silent board. The extruder motor makes an annoying sound on retract. With all that being said I still like it. Easy to get going. I used the Flsun QQ profile and adjusted the bed dimensions. I plan on using it for smallish fast parts.
I cannot follow most of the criticism at all: I own an Ender 3, Artillery X1, JGAurora A5 and now this Q5, and the Q5 is easily the best printer or of the box I have ever owned: More than acceptable quality from my first print (using the sample filament which is quite good), able to print at high speed (I print with 90-120mm/s) without visible impact on the prints and good prints every single time: something which none of my other printers is able to do. On top, as already mentioned the small footprint makes it the perfect printer for my desktop...
You can install Marlin2 to robin nano and use most of it's features. I believe even linear advace can work good with a short bowden tube like we have here. And there is an option to place extruder on the top of the head using springs attached to carets, and get shorter retracts and better K-factor.
I am a month late on commenting but I have a Q5 and I love it. I actually just a week ago finished an upgrade to allow dual color printing from a single nozzle. I upgraded all of the steppers to tmc2209, changed out the hotend fan, changed the parts cooling duct, changed the power supply fan, added second extruder, changed to bmg dual gear extruders (for better flexible filament printing), and went over to Marlin 2.0.6.1. The issue you were having in this video is most likely related to Linear Advance. If I enable Linear Advance then it does the same thing that you showed in the video however if I disable it then it works fine. Overall you can print out upgrades for this printer than improve it a tremendous amount and change out a few parts for very cheap to make it a quieter more flexible printer.
I considered this one, but ultimately went for the ender 3 due to the vast amount of documentation and community projects. I sort of wish I'd gone for the Q5 though, deltas are mesmerising as you said.
I built my own delta based on the Kossel design a number of years ago. The best upgrade I ever installed on it was the Zesty Nimble extruder to get rid of the Bowden tube. It makes changing filament a snap, and completely did away with jams and ground up filament.
I'm using the Q5 sind 4 weeks now and since one week I have a working marlin configuration. I don't like closed source firmware. The Q5 simply does his job very well. At the moment I'm tuning the slic3r profiles for PLA an PETG. regards and thank you for your content ! Michael
I remember you or someone else doing a video on filament oiling. What I remember is that using cooking oil had minimal strength effects, but significantly reduced bowden tube friction. Worth a try as a simple upgrade.
I agree with your review. I also changed the firmware, the extruder stepper driver, added a fly-extruder. It is a great wee machine for prototyping. As always, thank you for your great work.
I also have a Sapphire Pro with the Robin Nano and I can confirm that the firmware is very bad. But the board itself is fine, I actually think it's the best solution for a cheap board with a modern interface; the MCU is very good, the screen is responsive and decent quality, firmware update is easy enough, it just lacks a second fan interface for the Hotend fan. The real problem is the software support from 3D printer manufacturer. It seems you download the official Marlin, but you should try the version on MKS Github, it works fine for me (I'm also working on an improved version of it for the Sapphire Pro, I will add it under here when it's done).
My version of Marlin for MKS Robin Nano and Sapphire pro is available here : github.com/quentinDeroo/Marlin A lot of work has been done to improve the UI, it's now much more modern and faster than the version Stefan used in this video.
@@Spitfire17139 can read from the files it works with the robin nano but you built it for a sapphire pro which is not a delta, how do we use this on the printer this review is about the flsun q5
@@max1mus2k You need to modify the configuration.h file in the Marlin folder to set it up for this printer. I can't help you more than that, I don't have one unfortunately. Note that the screen is different, I believe it's a TFT32 on the FLSUN (compared to a TFT35 on Sapphire) so keep in mind to change that in addition to all the usual settings (it's near the end of the configuration file under "Graphical TFTs").
Brought one. Great printer. Easy set up out of the box. Great quality prints using pla for such a cheap printer. Well worth it. Easy to move around the building. Use a cable tie to hold leveling attachment in place when using as may move if not. I found the magnets not quite strong enough. Otherwise a great buy.
I got my first big delta last year in the form of an Anycubic Predator. The machine was very nice out of the box, but nowhere was it listed what kind of software it was running, so my first few prints were totally jacked up as I tried everything under the sun. Eventually I figured out it was based on RepRap, and presto, back in business. After a fairly extensive fine tuning of settings and trying all the slicers I've racked up, Cura made the best prints for this machine in the best print times. I've upgraded a lot of the parts too, added TL Smoothers and motor mount vibration dampeners, print head, etc. The heat bed was great at first too, but after a dozen or so, the topical additive the manufacturer adds to the bed has worn away and I have to use good ol' glue stick and clean that sucker surgical smooth to get prints to stick. Last little quibble--and I've tuned the mechanical parts to perfection now--but the print head would occasionally hit the print, knocking supports off or in the case of my last print (a marathon print trying to get a 185mm prototype turbine part), embedded itself in the model and ruined a print head due to a full spool turning into a gigantic blobby of filament spaghetti. After months of waiting and importing several replacement third-party heads as Anycubic wanted $9.00 for a print head but $50.00 to ship it, only one of the four would register to the firmware and accept readings from the thermistor, etc. That was more of a pain than I was expecting, so if you go with any of their FDM printers, you'll probably want to upgrade to a better print head sooner than later...
It£s also good that the delta arms are connected to the extrusions with thick frames that go all the way around, it's easy to manually move the nozzle.
I've had an Ender 3 that I keep buying parts for and trying to upgrade to get it where I want it to be, but for almost half of what I've spent I could just get this printer that already comes with all of those upgrades out of the box
the stuttering is most likely the jerk settings, all 3 must be identical. i had this "duh" issue when building my from scratch delta. same with the slicer.
It is probably because there is too much gcode for a bit of travel, and the firmware needs some 'thinking time". "Jerk" is about the "running start" the steppers can make.
@CNC Kitchen, you mention replacing the mainboard, which boards would you consider to be a suitable replacement? Are the SKR boards (such as the 1.4/1.4 Turbo) which are in a similar price bracket any better, or is everything around that price not worth it?
Check out Review from Design Prototype Test. He suggests the Duet and I agree. The SKR turbo runs 32 bit 120MHZ @64kbSRAM. Duet at 32 bit 120MHZ @512kb SRAM. U won’t need Pi with duet. Duet would be the best choice for running the delta at speed
Thanks for the great review. As always good. Straight to the point, high quality cutted and also smooth. Weiter so - ich find deine Videos einfach klasse!
Picked this up back in July and I've been very happy with it being new to 3d printing. Only things I've done is add a pei magnetic build plate, and I will need to clean ebuild my hot end due to it starting to leak recently. It's def ruined me for cartesian printers due to the faster print times.
one of my favoutire printer i just love the way ti works i have upgraded the fan with a noctua had to use a voltage step down cuz the old fan was 24V but it was easy also instaled a led stip on the top and i have lights as well
I'm way late here, but in case it helps someone, turning off the recover after power loss feature really helped the main board keep up during printing and reduce the blobs like you saw on the lumpy bumpy vase. This was actually on my QQ-S, but it looks like the Q5 is electronically the same.
I literally don't understand why everyone says not to buy a delta as a first printer. It has all the features I want. Auto bed level, quiet, adustinging nozzle on the fly.
I've always wondered if these printers would benefit from using the extra degrees of freedom. I mean, printing horizontally is something every 3D printer can do, but this one could also print diagonally without too much effort which could make a huge difference in surface finish.
Got my Q5 for about a week or so and am mostly satisfied...PLA sticks too heavy but some brands of PETG work fine. Surprisingly, two different brands of PETG printed from flop to top with exactly the same gcode file. Going to check out your PrusaSlicer settings :-)
Anyone have a recommended choice for a 4010 blower-style fan if you're looking for something really quiet? I'd print a mount for a noctua axial fan but I don't want the extra weight on my hotend.
I have an flsun cube. Great printer when tuned up properly. I recently got a tenlog 3d pro idex printer. This new one does dual the right way with independent exteyders that get out of each other's way. I will use my cube as a single extrusion machine and the new tenlog as my choice for dual extrusion projects.
I have an awesome video idea for you... bonding/glueing PETG parts together and which is the best method. You could check the strength of all the bonding methods (super glue, plastic weld, hot glue gun, ect) PETG is an awesome plastic and the middle ground between PLA and ABS but it has a terrible time bonding to itself with glues. We need a CNC Kitchen assessment for the best scientific method for attaching PETG parts together. Keep up the great work, cheers!
I was able to get this for under $200 and ran identical models side by side for at least 6/7 straight prints. Every model was arguably the same quality and a few even better. The real benefit was time, each print started at the same time but the Q5 blew the Ender 3 away every time. The benchy was half, other models were 1 to 3 hrs faster. This was with the E3 printing at .2 and 50mm and the Q5 at 1.5 and 50mm which is the default for the Cura profile (modified QQ). I agree the fan and extruder are noisy but my E3 stock was much worse. For the upgrades to my E3 I’m in it for over $250 and the new V2 reflects that price point. For under $200 the Q5 has been awesome and is my go to for quick prints. I also on a CR6 and thought it was going to be my go to but with all the issues with that line it spends a lot of time off. I hope you Stephan, come up with a replacement board option that makes the Q5 even better.
I am curious of your method used for testing the thermal runaway. For instance on the Sapphire Pro, what they call thermal runaway is just a sanity check for sensor readings. But if the sensor should come detached from the heater cartridge while printing, the printer keeps pumping heat into the heater block until it melts. When addressing TwoTrees, they seemed to not be aware that a temperature sensor sanity check and thermal runaway protection are in fact different things.
I've used a Delta for the last 6 years, coming from a Prusa Mendel i2. It has its upsides and downsides. My next machine will definitely be a cartesian machine again.
I just got one of those because of all the good reviews. BUT I still can not find the optimal cura print settings :( and also I can not find out what print nozzle it use when I want to replace it.
Small thing: check that in PrusaSlicer (or whatever slicer you’re using) your XY and Z jerk and accelerations are the same in the machine limits. That was causing very similar stuttering to yours for me as PrusaSlicer overwrites these values in the start GCode.
My Q5 does not have a V6 style hotend. The heatbreak is not threaded into the heatsink but is instead a smooth pipe held in the heatsink by two set screws. The heatsink is in turn screwed into the effector which holds the hotend in place. I would *love* it if the hotend was more easily upgradeable to a V6 style so I can use all my existing parts!
Isn't the MKS Robon Mini comparable to the MKS Robin E3D? The later one is a really great mainboard for my CR-10. Combined with the old Creality Displays with click wheel it is just awesome. So maybe replacing it with a Bigtreetech Display would be a good idea? Those have their own CPU and control the printer similar to a connected PC, so less CPU cycles are wasted on the mainboard
I think there is no need to tie the Bowden tube with the cables, it's better to let it run freely. I've had this machine for a couple months now, it's simply amazing comparing to my old Delta and i3 style machines. Do not use Cura though, it generates too many small moves that's difficult for Delta machine to process. PrusaSlicer works perfectly.
There is a setting in Cura to limit the numbrr of short moves.(Sorry, don't remember what it's called and not in front of my computer now. Google can maybe help. Someone made a video about it some months ago...)
Bought one at an auction but have had problems. Initially the extruder was moving in reverse but I managed to fix it by reversing a couple wires on it. Second problem is that the pla won't stick to the plate. I've tried many things including changing temperature of plate and tip. Cleaning with several degreasers. Adding glue stick. Spraying with hairspray. Nothing works.
I just bought q5 just because it was super cheap.. Only thing I did for now is change to capricorn bovden... So far I am surprised how well it works.. the default cura setting seem to work fine - the resolution of 0.5mm seem to help the slow board, so the print quality is good.. the sound of the fan is a bit on the high pitch but it is also on enders... I only own enders with that cubic type nozzle set (ender3pro, ender5 and ender5plus), also I dont know for ender 5plus it is a talk about having silent drivers which are not silent at all(they were the same as on the stock ender5)... I rly like all enders but the simplicity and ease of making enclosure for q5 would make me reconsider which one to chose between the 2(if i had to choose)..
I've got a QQ-S Pro, I don't know why you wouldn't pay the extra few dollars for a bigger build volume - 220dia by 360mm. The electronics are all in the base. And I'm sat next to it right now with it printing away and I don't hear any annoying noises. I'm not expert on the topic yet, I've only printed about 500g of PLA with it, so I won't comment on tweaking parameters for better prints etc. I'm not printing jewellery with it or toys so I'm less concerned about ultimate quality. The upgraded main board could be interesting. I'm using OctoPrint to control it though, so there is no pressing the buttons on the panel.
Might pick one of these up as a project unit. Deltas intrigue me and if the stock performance isn't great, I have no qualms learning how to throw a Duet into it. Already in-process of putting a SKR in my Monoprice Select Mini Pro (Malyan M200v3). Great vid, keep up the good work!
Seems to be very sturdy and looks like a bigger version of the Magician that I have. I love delta printers. The first printer I ever bought was a delta printer kit from China. The fan on mine is also quite loud. Mine runs Marlin. I'f love to upgrade but have know knowledge about how to do it in a right way. Mine has a limit switch as a touch probe. I always have to do some calculations which have to be uploaded to the machine manually.
I bought the Flsun QQS - I even thought is was a good deal for $300. then couple of months later the Flsun SR was on sale for $399. I also bought that. Both are well made but the Super Racer is upgraded in almost everyway from the QQS. I don't see another Company making a Delta this well made for $399. The frame is crazy overbuilt. Don't think anyone makes a delta as well polished as Flsun's to date. Anycubic don't even compare. They are only getting better Flsun. Have 7 Printers now, im out of room darn it lol.
i was thinking about these and ended up going the big brother, being the QQS-PRO which is a bit different after watching your video. I've been enjoying using mine for a few months, like it better than my stock ender 3.
Stefan as of lately I have come across people applying thermal paste to their PTFE lined throat claiming it increases the thermal conductivity and increasing heat dissipation to the heat sink, I am not convinced of this as surly it also draws more heat to the throat from the block by the same process and potentially cause blocks and retraction issues. What are your thoughts on this? and could ou do some experimentation on this?
MKS Robin nano board , despite being definetely not the best choice, is pretty usable (but, apparently, not on deltas) if you know how to cook it, especially with new Marlin Color UI for touchscreens. Unfortunately, there will be only increasing number of printers with this board, since MKS offers it ridiculously cheap for 3D printer manufacturers, and they also provide customized UI with icons, colors and logos you want. It is very convenient for manufacturers since they get ready to use cheap electronics with colorful touchscreen and WiFi to advertise and they don't have to tune Marlin for it. Out of the box the board runs MKS Robin 1.x firmware, like most Chinese printers using MKS Robin nano board. And you are actually wrong, this firmware is heavily based on Marlin, but extremely old Marlin 1.1.x, so it has no Linear Advance and all nice modern features, because they did not exist in the time this version was actual. Basically, the firmware is 32 bit ARM code for UI and touchscreen controls which imports the whole outdated Marin release as a library to do the actual math for motion control and printing-related routines. Also that's why config file uses Marlin's names for settings. This firmware by Makerbase had closed source for a long time, violating the GPL v3 license of Marlin. Only recently Makerbase published the code on their github. There they also have Robin firmware v2 which is based on Marlin 2.x and provides Lerdge-like experience of configuring the entire firmware using touchscreen.
the firmware running on those is Robin 2.0 and Repetier based... nothing to do with Marlin, which Makerbase abandoned originally for their 32-bits and are now coming back to it. And yes, they did put out a Marlin 1.x based firmware last year for the Nano, doesn’t make the above closer to any relevance to the Q5... I could also make a very long post and add a lot of non-substantiated (and wrong) assumptions, would that be better?
@@RogueMvox the problem is, my "assumptions" are not "non-substantiated". You can go to MKS github to the Robin Nano repository and check what firmware they provide for the Robin Nano v1.2 board. github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Robin-Nano github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Robin-Nano-Firmware Firmware v1.x is based on some old Marlin, there are sources available but "as the development IDE needs to pay, it is not suitable for individual users" (IDE is actually IAR Embedded Workbench, but if you know what to do you can build these sources in other IDEs) Firmware v2 is based on Marlin 2.x with LittlevGL-based UI (which they were surprisingly nice to contribute to Marlin when they suddenly decided to go all open source instead of just stealing other's work, so now u have MKS-LVGL UI option in mainline Marlin). The main selling point of this firmware is that you can configure everything (like kinematic type, endstops, motor directions, etc.) from the touch interface, without recompiling the firmware (similar to the Lerdge boards) Considering versioning - the firmware they do for manufacturers is usually based on their v1.x firmware for Robin nano but with custom UI look, but for each printer the actual firmware has completely different versioning, so it is useless to look at what is written in your printer's "firmware version". Please point me at this Repetier based firmware you were speaking about. I have several Robin nano boards and I've personally tinkered a lot with both Marlin-based Robin firmwares and Marlin itself on those boards. And I've never heard of any Repetier-based firmware, but I would be glad to learn something new.
If you are going to post on a Q5 review, can I respectfully suggest you buy a Q5 and then come back with info that applies and matters to the discussion and not guesswork? The MKS boards are sold to manufacturers, which then see fit to ship them with the firmware they deem appropriate... the only accidentally correct statement in your two walls of text so far is that FLsun/Makerbase are in breach of one or more GPL when it comes to the firmware that ships with this printer.
@@RogueMvox Well, you make a good point, I have to admit. But if flsun actually uses some firmware other than MKS provides, that makes it even more interesting. If you connect the printer to some host (i.e. Repetier Host or Pronterface) what is the first output you have from it? Since Repetier itself has no support for STM32, I would really want to have a closer look at the Repetier-based Firmware running on STM32. Where can I download it? I've tried to google a little bit, but with no luck.
Viсtor Shapovalov Makerbase added 32-bit support for their own boards to a Repetier base, probably version 0.9.2 originally (for the QQS) and maybe 1.0.x for later revisions (QQS Pro and Q5). They also added delta configuration and that is possibly where, if any, Marlin code base (1.0.x) was ‘borrowed’. Without source it is impossible to tell, but the large core of the firmware is Repetier, there is no doubt about it.
FLSun provides a good product, my (linear rod and bearing kit version) FLSun i3 is still running strong after three years and many mods later, with the only issue being a solder joint breaking off an end stop switch once.
Hi Stephan, zuerst hatte ich sonderbare Probleme mit dem extruder, der knackte während des Druckens, dann starb scheinbar das mainbord. Er zeigt jetzt beim einschalten die Meldung an, dass das file fehlt. Ich denke, er Meint das Betriebssystem Vielleicht BBC spendiere ich ihm ein Einsyboard. Oder ein Duet. Mal sehen.
I would be interested in his thoughts. have had my qqs pro for about 6 months and compared to my direct drive/v6 E3P, it gets print quality within striking distance of the ender at 2x or more speed.
Thx for the video Is there a chance that you will test the performance of the printer with the mentioned upgrades? I'm in the market for a delta printer (tall narrow prints is a problem on moving bed designs) but I want clean prints or I can use lots of support material on a ender style printer
I have an FLSUN QQ-S and I'm not happy. It had trouble getting the print to stick to the bed. Auto levelling is poor, multipoint manual levelling didn't help. Then a fan broke, my own fault, but support was nearly non-existent. Couldn't get spare parts from FLSUN, had to find some on Ali myself. I bought a Prusa instead, that works and is a lot smaller with only a slightly smaller footprint and print volume. Still fascinated by the delta though, maybe I'll get it up and running again someday. FLSUN Q5 and QQ-S are cheap but NOT RECOMMENDABLE FOR BEGINNERS! You link to a FLSUN Q5 profile for Prusa Slicer, is there one for the QQ-S as well?
The screen looks like an mks tft28 which has its own firmware, essentially like another computer just sending commands to the mainboard. I think the board itself uses marlin and can be upgraded to klipper fw.
I was always wondering what the point of the 3 arm design is. Seems it's for speed? I would think that it's going to have terrible accuracy, due to the long arms magnifying any flex... and I would expect harmonics start reeking havoc above a certain speed. I just don't get how this design would ever be more effective than the "cartesian" design. If accuracy was not a concern I could see it being able to handle insane speeds, but that's the only advantage I can think of.
Not having a moving bed for y axis is a big plus, if you need small x-y dimension but very tall z delta are the way to go (have a look at the k280 by he3d). For the rest best compromise speed vs quality is core xy.
@CNC Kitchen: Hi Stefan, would you mind sharing your Prusa slicer profile. Mine is some kind of weird and so I do use Cura (derived from standard QQ profile). But there is a bug in Cura 4.7.X when doing circles with not being able to keep the speed constant and that way creating blobs. Not being able to have nice circles on a round build plate is not optimal to say the least. My experience with the Q5 so far: It is as great printer for the money you have to pay. But I am a little concerned about keeping quality. My printer is making a rattling noise when printig (especially infill). That noise comes from the print head and i was not able to locate it so far. I printed for about 200h which is not that much in my opinion. I think i will have to investigate this noise which is not too easy as the screws are hidden quite well. Apart from that i am totally pleased with it. I could sit and watch the movement of a delta for hours. It is such a beauty to see a delta printer doing it's business. cheers (Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße) Peer
Willkommen im Club. :D Ich hab den größeren QQ-S Pro. Sehr gute Maschinen und einfach zu upgraden. Man kann aber Marlin verwenden. Schau dich gern mal in der FLSUN Facebook Gruppe um. :)
also ich bin gerade am suchen wie ich den Einstieg in das 3 drucken schaffe, nur ob ich so einen Delta nehme, dafür hab ich mich schon zu sehr in einen Hersteller verliebt obwohl ich noch keine Erfahrung habe .-)
@@elofos0815 Rezensionen, Rezensionen und mehr Rezensionen anschauen, Vorteile und Nachteile vergleichen mit verschiedene Fabrikaten und Typen...sowohl warum du ins 3D drucken willst und dann augen zu und durch. Die Lernkurve ist sehr steil. Weil du auch irgenda wann...wenn du nicht schon jetzt CAD zeichen wirst...Freecad ist sehr gut und frei...Tutorials überall zu finden. Günstig muss nicht unbedingt "billig" heissen...und Teuer auch nicht unbedingt "gut"...Nichts ist Perfekt...alles ist und kann verbessert werden. Viel Glück wünsche ich dir!!!
@@elofos0815 Wir haben alle bei 0 angefangen. Generell sind Delts nicht die besten ersten Drucker. Wobei der QQ-S auch mein Erster war. Es gibt ne große Facebook Gruppe für FLSUN Drucker die mir sehr geholfen hat. Es hilft sehr, gerade wenn man upgardet, wenn man schrauben und löten kann. Ist aber kein Muss. Viel Erfolg!
nunja den was ich im Auge habe gehört angeblich schon zu den flaggschiffen was den Preis angeht, aber einen clone oder Kopie will ich dann auch nicht, was ich halt nicht will gleich beim ersten Drucker nur am Geld zu sparen weil er schön billig ist und mir dann später nicht das Ergebniss liefert was ich zumindest an die qualität stelle, auf die Zeit kommt es erst mal garnicht an. Upgrades wie automatisches Filamentwechsel soll vielleicht dann auch offen bleiben. So features wie Stromausfall und co ist ein MUSS, selbstkalibrierung vom Tisch zumindest wenn ich einmal die Basicsetting habe das er diese Punkte wiederfindet und noch so ein paar spielereien. Bausatz ist für mich kein Ding, löten kann ich zur not selber mal noch 2-3 Stecker und Ikea anleitungen verstehe ich bestens. Mein Punkt ist halt noch immer der: PLA, ABS und co... was wird wann wie eingesetzt, letztendlich welches Material muss er mal verarbeiten können. Bin also noch auf der Findung und Stefan ist zumindest mal eine Gewisses Startkatapult an Informationen, vielleicht findes ich ja hier weiterführende Ideen wo ich noch Inputs sammeln kann. Bezüglich Stromausfall, bin ich gerade auf die Idee gekommen eine USV dazwischen zu hängen die dann ab einem gewissen Punkt dem Roboter sagt, schau das du die Schicht fertig machst und deinen Kopf parkst bis ich wieder am Netz bin, am ende übernimmt das dann sogar ein Raspberrypi der mit dem Drucker direkt kommuniziert, damit ich über's Netzwerk drucken kann bzw. über die Drucker eigenen Netzwerkschnittstelle. Und ja Zeichnen ist mal Teil 2 meiner Erfahrung, ich hab nen technischen Zeichner an der Hand, jedoch Sketchup als Einstiegsdroge, ist denke ich ausreichend. am Anfang werde ich sowieso auf fertige Modelle zurückgreifen um den Fehler falsch zeichnen und falsch drucken auf eine Fehlerquelle zu begrenzen
Moin Stefan, I got a flsun qq-s pro as my first 3d printer and got a lemon... First it was great but it didn't age well... Belts bend right of the box, the bed warped very badly after a 2 weeks to the point that's unusable. Many others in the Facebook group have similar problems. And it also lost the leveling a few times on different firmwares (including marlin)
First...because I can.
Hahahahah
Hahahhaha
😂🤣
Fabulous! 😆
Comedian
I bought a Q5 6 weeks ago, and it is impressive. All of the points in the review are correct:
- Underextrusion can be fixed with a 110-115% standard flow rate
- Cooling and noise are easily addressed with a Noctua replacement fan, silicone sock, and custom printed shroud and duct from Thingiverse
- The mainboard is fine unless you want to do extremely fast printing. Replacing the extruder stepper driver is another easy quality of life upgrade.
- I finished all upgrades and I now have a very fast and silent printer that has equal or better quality than the Ender 3, takes up far less space and prints almost twice as fast
- DELTAS ARE MESMERIZING. Your friends will think you spent $2000. They seem so amazingly smooth and robotic. It is science fiction in motion. Poetic to watch...
Thank you, your a life saver do you still have the thingiverse link?
One other upside of note, perhaps - The table footprint appears to be very small for its build volume, which might be a significant advantage to a maker with a very limited shop space.
Good point, it can be literally tucked into a corner since you don't have to make sure there's space for the bed to move backwards/forwards.
Good point! Forgot to mention that.
Yes, I currently have one sitting on about a 30cm shelf. It actually performs beautifully once you get it dialed in. I always set flow rate at 115% and underextrusion problems have disappearred. I believe shortening the tube and replacing with Capricorn tubing will achieve the same result.
I just purchased a Noctua replacement fan and printed a custom shroud and duct. A silicone sock assists in cooling as well.
I am actually amazed at the quality it can deliver at high speeds. I am seeing Ender 3 quality at 70% of print times.
Delta printers are so cool that you can tell your friends it cost $2000 and they will believe you. It is mesmerizing how they move.
This only matters if you use a 2D space to compare a 3D volume. In this matter, I could build any 3D printer as a skyscraper and meet the same criteria. The taller I make it, since you're ignoring this axis entirely in this comparison, the larger the ratio of "footprint to build volume" you have. It's not a really good way to compare printers.
@@ThantiK While I agree it's not the whole story, X/Y volume on a tabletop in a shop is typically *significantly* more limited than Z volume, given that very few people have ~5-6ft in X or Y to spare on a table, compared to basically everyone having that available in Z. X/Y area tends to be more valuable in terms of storage in a small shop compared to total volume.
Never did I expect to see a trustworthy youtuber review one of these cheap deltas. As kossel owner, thank you =)
It is a very good value. Easily worth the novelty value of watching a Delta work away. As a Kossel owner, you know the “Wow” factor a Delta creates.
I love it.
Definitely do! It was my first printer, and man.. It's been interesting experience.
Im also s kossel owner
I want a Kossel...nowhere to buy :(
I have the Kossel also. Pain to get started but once she is going she is great
I bought one a few weeks ago and I agree 90% with you but have some suggestions for you. A silent stepper for the extruder is probably going to be my first upgrade.
My machine seems to have less problems than yours though, I have a suggestion for you:
I used a similarly sized filament roll, and it was printing next to me when I noticed some strange noises. It was the filament roll not rolling well on the squared holder... worst shape for a filament holder. I designed and printed a spool holder for the roll itself to essentially make the I.D. of the filament roll 30mm and all prints improved and it got a little quieter. I made a holder for the holder... but the large I.D. also effects my A10T so everyone gets a holder! I have 15 1kg rolls, trust me it works WONDERS. I won't post a thingiverse link unless someone wants it, this isn't spam for my thingiverse haha.
I have another tip for anyone trying to use post script commands like "pause at". You have to use the BQ "method" (only one available in Cura that worked for me). It works though, I have 2 nuts embedded in my new shift knob as proof!
I love this printer! Like you said it's "90%" and I can agree with that. Then again 100% probably would've been another $100!
Good review, thanks!
Hey, mind sharing the thingiverse link? I own one
@@lugaidster www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601253
I'm uploading V2 and a longer shaft version at some point today.
Would love the link too please 🙂
I bought the FLSun Q5 based primarily on this video, but I did watch others. It is my first printer. I had it built in a half hour and have been very pleased overall with it's simplicity. The only problems I've encountered have been my slicing and gcode, not the printer. Yes the cooling fan is loud. Almost as loud as my PC after playing KSP for an hour. I think the Q5 will make a nice backup printer one day when my modeling skills require a higher resolution printer. This is only a hobby for me and I'm happy with a simpler machine that's less intimidating without all those mods and features that I'm supposed to need. With my skill set, I could have a $28k printer and my prints wouldn't look any different.
Thanks Stefan for an honest review and opinion of the FLSun Q5. I am very happy with my printer.
FWIW; I bought the Q5, four 1kg rolls of PLA, and the Sunlu S1 filament drier for less than an Ender 5 Pro and nothing else.
First of, sorry for probably some strange grammar, but I'm german and I don't have much practice speaking english after I finished school 20 years ago. ;-)
I bought the FLSUN Q5 end of april. It was my first 3D printer (and so far only one). One of the reasons I chosed it was the small footprint, because i have limited space on my desk and no other option of placing it at the moment. The other reason was the affordable price. I would have been capable of spending more, but my first try on 3D printing shouldn't be that expensive in case it turns out I don't use it as much or it turns out 3D printing is just not working for me.
But I'm very glad I dared to try it, after quite some time of arguing with myself.
My experience with that printer is equal to your review.
It has some quirks, but it still does decent job and the price tag is well placed.
I bought a better bowden tube as I had the same thought about it as you, but I didn't installed it so far. Same for a flex plate. I bought one because the adhesion on big parts can be so strong, I was able to lift the whole printer while only holding the printed part and once it took me 10 minutes to get my part off without damaging something. That depends on the filament though. Some just snap of once the print is finished and the build plate cools down and just wait to be taken of.
Next thing I want to change is that hot end cooler. It is quite loud. Even though it doesn't bother me as much because it is a steady noise, I think a little bit optimisation is worth it.
Maybe a better mainboard will come after that. I noticed the little blobs, but didn't know how to handle them. I saw a video of... i believe it was Chep, where he showed a solution with Cura settigs, but my settings already watched good in that regard. A better board might be the right solution here. That would handle the firmware "problem" as well. And by problem I mean the proprietary part. That could be a good opportunity to upgrade the extruder stepper driver as well.
As with many printers you can make them a little bit better with self printed parts.
Most importantly the part cooling. The fan only blowing from one side makes overhangs from the right quite good but realy bad from the left side.
I printed this replacement: bit.ly/30xcqF2 (thingiverse link)
That made my overhangs way better. Meanwhile there is another design where the fan duct is easily detachable but I have not printed it yet.
Another thing i did was printing these little hooks from thingiverse: bit.ly/2CzbNTa
My studs had a slight rattling noise. The rubberbands fixed this. But that didn't affact print quality as far as I can tell.
Last I made this carriage covers from thingiverse: bit.ly/2E2slTX
Just to have less moving weight.
For the same reason I want to try printing the support frame for the hotend and partcooling fan. But that have wait until I have the time and mood for it. ;-)
I think the biggest downside of a delta printer can be the round build plate. This one has a diameter of 20cm. I think it is decent and works for many parts. But as soon as you have something with a rectangular footprint it can be an issue. Largest one I designed myself and printed so far was a Nintendo switch stand. It is 164mm wide and 72mm in depth. That was pretty near to the edges, leving only a little bit space for the purge skirt. On a "similar sized" cartesian printer with a 20cm x 20cm print bed you could print two of them at the same time and still have room for some other smaller parts if you so desire. But a cartesian printer with that printbed would take more place on the desk as well. So you can't realy compare 20cm diameter with 20x20 rectangular. But I think just because of the same number some people might expect kind of the same build size you can achive.
Last but not least I want to thank you for your awesome channel. This is one of the channels that tought me quite a bit about 3D printing and made my life easier.
Update:
A small Update down in the further comments.
Ich hab dir den auch neulich geholt und gleich die Lüfter gewechselt.
Das einzige Problem das ich habe ist das die Drucke in x 1% in y 2% zu groß sind und in z eher zu klein.
Hast du eine Idee was man da tun kann?
Hey, thanks about this! I needed this :)
Update:
I have to make a small update. All of the above is correct, but I noticed something on the part with the little blobs.
As Stefan noticed, the blobs on round surfaces happen because the printer makes small stops due to not enough processing power. That was never a big issue for me because in the beginning I mostly printed decorative parts. These parts where printed slowly, mostly at 30 mm/s. At this speed there are barely any blobs. Meanwhile I noticed, that they introduce at about 40 mm/s. At 60 mm/s the survice beomes quite rough due to uneven printed walls. At 80mm/s the printer doesn't make small pauses anymore. It becomes very noticible stuttering. The print of a bowl at this speed was horrible and very ugly. Straight walls and corners on the other hand are still good at 80mm/s. So it's just an issue with round objects.
I already have a new mainboard laying around (had nothing else I wanted for christmas so a free upgrade), but I'm lacking the time to work on the printer. Planing on doing some test cylinders for a comparision of before and after the upgrade.
@@BBFPV
Entschuldigung, habe die Benachrichtigung über den Kommentar wohl übersehen.
Ich bin selbst noch neu beim 3D Druck, aber so wie ich das bisher mitbekommen habe, ist es nicht so einfach die Stock Firmware zu ändern. Aber in der Hinsicht habe ich eh noch keine Erfahrung und könnte da keine Tipps geben.
Spontan würde ich sagen ist es am einfachsten wenn du in deinem Slicer die Größe von Objekten in X auf 99% und in Y auf 98% stellst und schaust ob es dann korrekt ist. Was die Z Achse angeht könnte es auch sein, dass du zu zu niedrig gelevelt hast. Cura hat als Standardeinstellung, dass die erste Schicht mit 0,3 mm Dicke gedruckt werden soll. Hast du aber niedriger gelevelt so das z.B. nur 0.2 über bleiben ist der Druck also knapp zu niedrig. Nun sind die Druckbetten aber auch nie 100% eben, so dass unter Umständen so vorgegangen werden muss um überall eine gute Haftung zu gewährleisten. In dem Fall kann ein Raft helfen. Das Raft bügelt dann die Unebenheiten aus und der Druck oben drauf sollte dann entsprechend genau sein. Tritt auch dann noch eine regelmäßige Abweichung auf, kannst du natürlich auch Z auf z.B 101% skalieren.
Ich habe auch an vielen Stellen schon gelesen, dass sie das Problem haben, das z.B. von einem Viereck zwei Seiten schön gerade sind, die anderen beiden aber leicht gebogen. Davon bin ich nicht betroffen. Vielleicht eine Frage von Firmware Updates. Aber da man das nicht über Slicer Settings Ändern kann, war bei diesen Leuten die einzige Lösung sich ein neues Mainboard ein zu bauen, welches die Möglichkeit gab den Drucker entsprechend zu kalibrieren.
@@JelleGrutterink
Hi,
I made a little update here in the comments regarding print speed and quality. Maybe it is no longer an issue due to a possible newer hardware revision. But I wanted to share that additional experience I made so far.
I use the flsun QQ-s now for about a year. Since I don't have experience with other printers, I love it.
And sometimes hate it..
Are you printing with various materials
Is there going to be a video of upgrading this machine? I'd love to see how that is done. It seems like a good machine, and I am thinking about getting one. Well, I'd really like to get it. I love watching deltas print, I've stared at them for over an hour before just watching them move so this would be an awesome printer to have.
Check out: ruclips.net/video/VXBr3MTs50c/видео.html
@@mskerritt1 Thank you!
My thought as well, which I have done on my Ender 3 Laurie NZ
This is the first printer I bought (and only one I own) and it has been very easy to set up and use. took some messing around with slicer settings and learning what sort of things can and can't be 3D printed but I'd say it's fast and easy.
Wold be nice to see "nonplanar surface printing" with this one :)
Duet is such a good Upgrade for these Delta / Kossel style Printers. Upgraded my Anycubic Kossel to an duetwifi2, Printspeeds of around 150mm/s and Movement around 400mm/s are no Problem for big parts.
Great upgrade unless your printer cheaper than Duet. At first everyone should try to upgrade to 3-5 cheaper boards before buying Duet. It seems there full industry for those who bought cheapest printers.
What's the point? :)) It's not a cheap mobo... If you're about printing more than about tinkering (your machine) then it's better to start with a decent h-bot. It will be faster and much more reliable (and understandable!).
Printer came with a 8Bit Board, which really had its limits. The skr1.3 wasn’t available back then, so i went Duet and never regret it so far
@@darkengel1210 Can the skr1.3 work with delta printers? I'm using one for my ender 3 and it's amazing.
Sure, why not? Just a configuration thing.
Hi, thanks for this review, if i had not yet bought one, i think i had been convinced to do it! As you said, i choose it because it is so easy to assemble for a first 3D printer, the ratio between printing/printer volume is very good as it is a delta printer! And the dance of the head and arms of a delta printer during printing as something hypnotic... It also have a very good printing quality out of the box ( tmc2208 are already installed for axes), and is relatively quiet compare to printer of the same price range. The spool holder is the first thing to change, it is so easy to print a good one! Then i've installed a tmc2209 for the extruder and it become completly quiet ( change motor direction and put extruder max acceleration to 250 in firmware). Now i can only ear the fans, and it is difficult to find a good 24v replacement ( i've tested some noctua and noiseblocker 12v with buck converter, but then they are not powerfull enought compare to stock fans). There is a good program (certainly made by FLSun) that almost automaticaly calibrate prinitng dimensions ( you enter the theorical and reel dimension of a test print, that's it):facebook.com/groups/120961628750040/permalink/708716593307871/
I have had one for a couple of months now and I am really happy with it. I'm using simplify for my slicing and have never experienced the blobs shown in the video. Regarding the under extrusion I did have a little of that but that was quickly fixed by bumping the extrusion multiplier up a bit. I just held a workshop at a school and it was perfect for transportation as it is really light and the students were very impressed by the movement system. The speed curtainly made it easier to pump out some useful parts the the students to print home. I have the machine sitting on my desk and I forget that it's even there at times and I don't think it will be coming down any time soon 😊
This is my experience EXACTLY. No blobs, some minor underextrusion, easily addressed at 110-115% multiplier.
Deltas are magical to watch!
I experienced the same underextrusion problem you described. It got better when I switched to a capricorn bowden tube an increased the extrusion multiplier.
After some (ok a lot) slicer profile tuning I now have a really good printer for the price.
Another big pro of this printer is the small footprints - it's only 1,5 normal printer papers big.
Another pro is that it looks really cool during printing, even my wife likes it.
All in all I can recommend the printer.
With it's footprint so small, you could make an enclosure using just a large pipe from the home store. Size and cost would make this an easy sell for me.
I bought one a week or two ago and I have to say I am quite happy. As far as the fan noise I do not find objectionable. Steppers are quite quiet except for the extruder and it is not that bad.
Just got mine a few days ago. I’m really happy so far. I replaced the filament holder with one on thingiverse. Great value for money. We’ll see how it holds up.
I am 6 weeks in...still quite happy. The issues I have had are not really the printer. I recommend a higher than 100% flow rate, however. The long tube can create resistance on tall prints. At 115%, the print can accept the extra material, no problem, but underextrusion never happens. You get a stronger print and better consistency.
It is extremely fast in vase mode. You can do 100mm/s and not see any degradation.
I got one about 2 weeks ago. Lube the ball joints. Watch that the tube doesn't get in the way of the homing switches. Changing some of the settings during a print causes the machine pause very briefly. The stepper motors on mine are not all that quiet, much louder than my CR-10 with a silent board. The extruder motor makes an annoying sound on retract. With all that being said I still like it. Easy to get going. I used the Flsun QQ profile and adjusted the bed dimensions. I plan on using it for smallish fast parts.
I cannot follow most of the criticism at all:
I own an Ender 3, Artillery X1, JGAurora A5 and now this Q5, and the Q5 is easily the best printer or of the box I have ever owned:
More than acceptable quality from my first print (using the sample filament which is quite good), able to print at high speed (I print with 90-120mm/s) without visible impact on the prints and good prints every single time: something which none of my other printers is able to do.
On top, as already mentioned the small footprint makes it the perfect printer for my desktop...
Recommend it for a first printer? I’m stuck between the sidewinder x1, prusa mini, and flsun
You can install Marlin2 to robin nano and use most of it's features. I believe even linear advace can work good with a short bowden tube like we have here. And there is an option to place extruder on the top of the head using springs attached to carets, and get shorter retracts and better K-factor.
I am a month late on commenting but I have a Q5 and I love it. I actually just a week ago finished an upgrade to allow dual color printing from a single nozzle. I upgraded all of the steppers to tmc2209, changed out the hotend fan, changed the parts cooling duct, changed the power supply fan, added second extruder, changed to bmg dual gear extruders (for better flexible filament printing), and went over to Marlin 2.0.6.1.
The issue you were having in this video is most likely related to Linear Advance. If I enable Linear Advance then it does the same thing that you showed in the video however if I disable it then it works fine.
Overall you can print out upgrades for this printer than improve it a tremendous amount and change out a few parts for very cheap to make it a quieter more flexible printer.
I considered this one, but ultimately went for the ender 3 due to the vast amount of documentation and community projects. I sort of wish I'd gone for the Q5 though, deltas are mesmerising as you said.
I built my own delta based on the Kossel design a number of years ago. The best upgrade I ever installed on it was the Zesty Nimble extruder to get rid of the Bowden tube. It makes changing filament a snap, and completely did away with jams and ground up filament.
I'm using the Q5 sind 4 weeks now and since one week I have a working marlin configuration. I don't like closed source firmware. The Q5 simply does his job very well. At the moment I'm tuning the slic3r profiles for PLA an PETG.
regards and thank you for your content !
Michael
I remember you or someone else doing a video on filament oiling. What I remember is that using cooking oil had minimal strength effects, but significantly reduced bowden tube friction. Worth a try as a simple upgrade.
I agree with your review. I also changed the firmware, the extruder stepper driver, added a fly-extruder. It is a great wee machine for prototyping. As always, thank you for your great work.
I also have a Sapphire Pro with the Robin Nano and I can confirm that the firmware is very bad. But the board itself is fine, I actually think it's the best solution for a cheap board with a modern interface; the MCU is very good, the screen is responsive and decent quality, firmware update is easy enough, it just lacks a second fan interface for the Hotend fan. The real problem is the software support from 3D printer manufacturer. It seems you download the official Marlin, but you should try the version on MKS Github, it works fine for me (I'm also working on an improved version of it for the Sapphire Pro, I will add it under here when it's done).
My version of Marlin for MKS Robin Nano and Sapphire pro is available here : github.com/quentinDeroo/Marlin
A lot of work has been done to improve the UI, it's now much more modern and faster than the version Stefan used in this video.
@@Spitfire17139 can read from the files it works with the robin nano but you built it for a sapphire pro which is not a delta, how do we use this on the printer this review is about the flsun q5
@@max1mus2k You need to modify the configuration.h file in the Marlin folder to set it up for this printer. I can't help you more than that, I don't have one unfortunately. Note that the screen is different, I believe it's a TFT32 on the FLSUN (compared to a TFT35 on Sapphire) so keep in mind to change that in addition to all the usual settings (it's near the end of the configuration file under "Graphical TFTs").
Brought one. Great printer. Easy set up out of the box. Great quality prints using pla for such a cheap printer. Well worth it. Easy to move around the building. Use a cable tie to hold leveling attachment in place when using as may move if not. I found the magnets not quite strong enough. Otherwise a great buy.
The best and quietest printer I have ever seen.
I got my first big delta last year in the form of an Anycubic Predator. The machine was very nice out of the box, but nowhere was it listed what kind of software it was running, so my first few prints were totally jacked up as I tried everything under the sun. Eventually I figured out it was based on RepRap, and presto, back in business. After a fairly extensive fine tuning of settings and trying all the slicers I've racked up, Cura made the best prints for this machine in the best print times. I've upgraded a lot of the parts too, added TL Smoothers and motor mount vibration dampeners, print head, etc. The heat bed was great at first too, but after a dozen or so, the topical additive the manufacturer adds to the bed has worn away and I have to use good ol' glue stick and clean that sucker surgical smooth to get prints to stick. Last little quibble--and I've tuned the mechanical parts to perfection now--but the print head would occasionally hit the print, knocking supports off or in the case of my last print (a marathon print trying to get a 185mm prototype turbine part), embedded itself in the model and ruined a print head due to a full spool turning into a gigantic blobby of filament spaghetti. After months of waiting and importing several replacement third-party heads as Anycubic wanted $9.00 for a print head but $50.00 to ship it, only one of the four would register to the firmware and accept readings from the thermistor, etc. That was more of a pain than I was expecting, so if you go with any of their FDM printers, you'll probably want to upgrade to a better print head sooner than later...
It£s also good that the delta arms are connected to the extrusions with thick frames that go all the way around, it's easy to manually move the nozzle.
I've had an Ender 3 that I keep buying parts for and trying to upgrade to get it where I want it to be, but for almost half of what I've spent I could just get this printer that already comes with all of those upgrades out of the box
the stuttering is most likely the jerk settings, all 3 must be identical.
i had this "duh" issue when building my from scratch delta. same with the slicer.
there is no jerk setting on robin firmware
It is probably because there is too much gcode for a bit of travel, and the firmware needs some 'thinking time".
"Jerk" is about the "running start" the steppers can make.
@CNC Kitchen, you mention replacing the mainboard, which boards would you consider to be a suitable replacement? Are the SKR boards (such as the 1.4/1.4 Turbo) which are in a similar price bracket any better, or is everything around that price not worth it?
Check out Review from Design Prototype Test. He suggests the Duet and I agree. The SKR turbo runs 32 bit 120MHZ @64kbSRAM. Duet at 32 bit 120MHZ @512kb SRAM. U won’t need Pi with duet. Duet would be the best choice for running the delta at speed
@@hayden9944 only downside is the price of the duet right? arent they 5 times the price of a SKR?
Try Marlin before changing it.
Thanks for the great review. As always good. Straight to the point, high quality cutted and also smooth. Weiter so - ich find deine Videos einfach klasse!
Picked this up back in July and I've been very happy with it being new to 3d printing. Only things I've done is add a pei magnetic build plate, and I will need to clean
ebuild my hot end due to it starting to leak recently. It's def ruined me for cartesian printers due to the faster print times.
one of my favoutire printer i just love the way ti works i have upgraded the fan with a noctua had to use a voltage step down cuz the old fan was 24V but it was easy also instaled a led stip on the top and i have lights as well
I'm way late here, but in case it helps someone, turning off the recover after power loss feature really helped the main board keep up during printing and reduce the blobs like you saw on the lumpy bumpy vase. This was actually on my QQ-S, but it looks like the Q5 is electronically the same.
I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro. Is my first printer and I love it!
I just ordered one are you able to use various materials
PLA and PETG shouldn't be a problem, ABS could work as well.
@@CNCKitchen thanks for response I'm at the learning phase I can see Soo much potential now I'm so interested
PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU goes very very well.
I literally don't understand why everyone says not to buy a delta as a first printer. It has all the features I want. Auto bed level, quiet, adustinging nozzle on the fly.
Could you share your Prusa profile you used for the machine? I'd like to compare what you have set to what i'm using on my q5 right now.
I've always wondered if these printers would benefit from using the extra degrees of freedom. I mean, printing horizontally is something every 3D printer can do, but this one could also print diagonally without too much effort which could make a huge difference in surface finish.
Got my Q5 for about a week or so and am mostly satisfied...PLA sticks too heavy but some brands of PETG work fine. Surprisingly, two different brands of PETG printed from flop to top with exactly the same gcode file. Going to check out your PrusaSlicer settings :-)
Anyone have a recommended choice for a 4010 blower-style fan if you're looking for something really quiet?
I'd print a mount for a noctua axial fan but I don't want the extra weight on my hotend.
I have an flsun cube. Great printer when tuned up properly. I recently got a tenlog 3d pro idex printer. This new one does dual the right way with independent exteyders that get out of each other's way. I will use my cube as a single extrusion machine and the new tenlog as my choice for dual extrusion projects.
I still use my "old" TEVO Little Monster.
Still a great machine, even though it is older than four years by now.
I have an awesome video idea for you... bonding/glueing PETG parts together and which is the best method. You could check the strength of all the bonding methods (super glue, plastic weld, hot glue gun, ect) PETG is an awesome plastic and the middle ground between PLA and ABS but it has a terrible time bonding to itself with glues. We need a CNC Kitchen assessment for the best scientific method for attaching PETG parts together. Keep up the great work, cheers!
I was able to get this for under $200 and ran identical models side by side for at least 6/7 straight prints. Every model was arguably the same quality and a few even better. The real benefit was time, each print started at the same time but the Q5 blew the Ender 3 away every time. The benchy was half, other models were 1 to 3 hrs faster. This was with the E3 printing at .2 and 50mm and the Q5 at 1.5 and 50mm which is the default for the Cura profile (modified QQ). I agree the fan and extruder are noisy but my E3 stock was much worse. For the upgrades to my E3 I’m in it for over $250 and the new V2 reflects that price point. For under $200 the Q5 has been awesome and is my go to for quick prints. I also on a CR6 and thought it was going to be my go to but with all the issues with that line it spends a lot of time off. I hope you Stephan, come up with a replacement board option that makes the Q5 even better.
Just bought one ... thanks for the review!
will there be upgrade video for this printer ?
I am curious of your method used for testing the thermal runaway. For instance on the Sapphire Pro, what they call thermal runaway is just a sanity check for sensor readings. But if the sensor should come detached from the heater cartridge while printing, the printer keeps pumping heat into the heater block until it melts. When addressing TwoTrees, they seemed to not be aware that a temperature sensor sanity check and thermal runaway protection are in fact different things.
they really thought well about the total user experience design for the assembly and setup
I've used a Delta for the last 6 years, coming from a Prusa Mendel i2. It has its upsides and downsides. My next machine will definitely be a cartesian machine again.
I just got one of those because of all the good reviews. BUT I still can not find the optimal cura print settings :( and also I can not find out what print nozzle it use when I want to replace it.
Small thing: check that in PrusaSlicer (or whatever slicer you’re using) your XY and Z jerk and accelerations are the same in the machine limits. That was causing very similar stuttering to yours for me as PrusaSlicer overwrites these values in the start GCode.
My Q5 does not have a V6 style hotend. The heatbreak is not threaded into the heatsink but is instead a smooth pipe held in the heatsink by two set screws. The heatsink is in turn screwed into the effector which holds the hotend in place. I would *love* it if the hotend was more easily upgradeable to a V6 style so I can use all my existing parts!
Yes it's a mistake. Its a V5
Thumbs up for pronouncing Bowden correctly and a great review, of course.
Isn't the MKS Robon Mini comparable to the MKS Robin E3D? The later one is a really great mainboard for my CR-10. Combined with the old Creality Displays with click wheel it is just awesome.
So maybe replacing it with a Bigtreetech Display would be a good idea? Those have their own CPU and control the printer similar to a connected PC, so less CPU cycles are wasted on the mainboard
I have been eyeballing this, it's been getting good reviews all over and looks to be a good footprint for the volume :)
I own one and I can highly recommend.
I think there is no need to tie the Bowden tube with the cables, it's better to let it run freely. I've had this machine for a couple months now, it's simply amazing comparing to my old Delta and i3 style machines. Do not use Cura though, it generates too many small moves that's difficult for Delta machine to process. PrusaSlicer works perfectly.
There is a setting in Cura to limit the numbrr of short moves.(Sorry, don't remember what it's called and not in front of my computer now. Google can maybe help. Someone made a video about it some months ago...)
Best review of FLSUN Q5. Thanks.
I've been running Marlin on my delta for quite some time without any problems. You might want to check your Marlin config again.
Bought one at an auction but have had problems. Initially the extruder was moving in reverse but I managed to fix it by reversing a couple wires on it. Second problem is that the pla won't stick to the plate. I've tried many things including changing temperature of plate and tip. Cleaning with several degreasers. Adding glue stick. Spraying with hairspray. Nothing works.
I just bought q5 just because it was super cheap.. Only thing I did for now is change to capricorn bovden... So far I am surprised how well it works.. the default cura setting seem to work fine - the resolution of 0.5mm seem to help the slow board, so the print quality is good.. the sound of the fan is a bit on the high pitch but it is also on enders... I only own enders with that cubic type nozzle set (ender3pro, ender5 and ender5plus), also I dont know for ender 5plus it is a talk about having silent drivers which are not silent at all(they were the same as on the stock ender5)... I rly like all enders but the simplicity and ease of making enclosure for q5 would make me reconsider which one to chose between the 2(if i had to choose)..
I've got a QQ-S Pro, I don't know why you wouldn't pay the extra few dollars for a bigger build volume - 220dia by 360mm. The electronics are all in the base. And I'm sat next to it right now with it printing away and I don't hear any annoying noises. I'm not expert on the topic yet, I've only printed about 500g of PLA with it, so I won't comment on tweaking parameters for better prints etc. I'm not printing jewellery with it or toys so I'm less concerned about ultimate quality.
The upgraded main board could be interesting. I'm using OctoPrint to control it though, so there is no pressing the buttons on the panel.
Who are we?
-Makers!
What do we want?
-Noctua fans on 3D printers!
Might pick one of these up as a project unit. Deltas intrigue me and if the stock performance isn't great, I have no qualms learning how to throw a Duet into it. Already in-process of putting a SKR in my Monoprice Select Mini Pro (Malyan M200v3).
Great vid, keep up the good work!
was the deadpool printed on FLsun q5 printer??? if yes what setting did you use,
Seems to be very sturdy and looks like a bigger version of the Magician that I have. I love delta printers. The first printer I ever bought was a delta printer kit from China. The fan on mine is also quite loud. Mine runs Marlin. I'f love to upgrade but have know knowledge about how to do it in a right way. Mine has a limit switch as a touch probe. I always have to do some calculations which have to be uploaded to the machine manually.
I bought the Flsun QQS - I even thought is was a good deal for $300. then couple of months later the Flsun SR was on sale for $399. I also bought that. Both are well made but the Super Racer is upgraded in almost everyway from the QQS. I don't see another Company making a Delta this well made for $399. The frame is crazy overbuilt. Don't think anyone makes a delta as well polished as Flsun's to date. Anycubic don't even compare. They are only getting better Flsun. Have 7 Printers now, im out of room darn it lol.
I'm brand new to this stuff, how does the printer know what you want to print?
ik this is a bit of an odd request, but it would be cool to see what the temperature resistance of SLA resins is compared to our standard filaments
Great review
Interesting printer.
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍😁
I have that stuttering on my Delta as well When I select the wrong marlin flavour in the slicer. Just Test another flavour Of the firmware
i was thinking about these and ended up going the big brother, being the QQS-PRO which is a bit different after watching your video. I've been enjoying using mine for a few months, like it better than my stock ender 3.
Stefan as of lately I have come across people applying thermal paste to their PTFE lined throat claiming it increases the thermal conductivity and increasing heat dissipation to the heat sink, I am not convinced of this as surly it also draws more heat to the throat from the block by the same process and potentially cause blocks and retraction issues.
What are your thoughts on this? and could ou do some experimentation on this?
MKS Robin nano board , despite being definetely not the best choice, is pretty usable (but, apparently, not on deltas) if you know how to cook it, especially with new Marlin Color UI for touchscreens. Unfortunately, there will be only increasing number of printers with this board, since MKS offers it ridiculously cheap for 3D printer manufacturers, and they also provide customized UI with icons, colors and logos you want. It is very convenient for manufacturers since they get ready to use cheap electronics with colorful touchscreen and WiFi to advertise and they don't have to tune Marlin for it.
Out of the box the board runs MKS Robin 1.x firmware, like most Chinese printers using MKS Robin nano board. And you are actually wrong, this firmware is heavily based on Marlin, but extremely old Marlin 1.1.x, so it has no Linear Advance and all nice modern features, because they did not exist in the time this version was actual. Basically, the firmware is 32 bit ARM code for UI and touchscreen controls which imports the whole outdated Marin release as a library to do the actual math for motion control and printing-related routines. Also that's why config file uses Marlin's names for settings. This firmware by Makerbase had closed source for a long time, violating the GPL v3 license of Marlin. Only recently Makerbase published the code on their github. There they also have Robin firmware v2 which is based on Marlin 2.x and provides Lerdge-like experience of configuring the entire firmware using touchscreen.
the firmware running on those is Robin 2.0 and Repetier based... nothing to do with Marlin, which Makerbase abandoned originally for their 32-bits and are now coming back to it. And yes, they did put out a Marlin 1.x based firmware last year for the Nano, doesn’t make the above closer to any relevance to the Q5... I could also make a very long post and add a lot of non-substantiated (and wrong) assumptions, would that be better?
@@RogueMvox the problem is, my "assumptions" are not "non-substantiated". You can go to MKS github to the Robin Nano repository and check what firmware they provide for the Robin Nano v1.2 board.
github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Robin-Nano
github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Robin-Nano-Firmware
Firmware v1.x is based on some old Marlin, there are sources available but "as the development IDE needs to pay, it is not suitable for individual users" (IDE is actually IAR Embedded Workbench, but if you know what to do you can build these sources in other IDEs)
Firmware v2 is based on Marlin 2.x with LittlevGL-based UI (which they were surprisingly nice to contribute to Marlin when they suddenly decided to go all open source instead of just stealing other's work, so now u have MKS-LVGL UI option in mainline Marlin). The main selling point of this firmware is that you can configure everything (like kinematic type, endstops, motor directions, etc.) from the touch interface, without recompiling the firmware (similar to the Lerdge boards)
Considering versioning - the firmware they do for manufacturers is usually based on their v1.x firmware for Robin nano but with custom UI look, but for each printer the actual firmware has completely different versioning, so it is useless to look at what is written in your printer's "firmware version".
Please point me at this Repetier based firmware you were speaking about. I have several Robin nano boards and I've personally tinkered a lot with both Marlin-based Robin firmwares and Marlin itself on those boards. And I've never heard of any Repetier-based firmware, but I would be glad to learn something new.
If you are going to post on a Q5 review, can I respectfully suggest you buy a Q5 and then come back with info that applies and matters to the discussion and not guesswork? The MKS boards are sold to manufacturers, which then see fit to ship them with the firmware they deem appropriate... the only accidentally correct statement in your two walls of text so far is that FLsun/Makerbase are in breach of one or more GPL when it comes to the firmware that ships with this printer.
@@RogueMvox Well, you make a good point, I have to admit. But if flsun actually uses some firmware other than MKS provides, that makes it even more interesting. If you connect the printer to some host (i.e. Repetier Host or Pronterface) what is the first output you have from it?
Since Repetier itself has no support for STM32, I would really want to have a closer look at the Repetier-based Firmware running on STM32. Where can I download it? I've tried to google a little bit, but with no luck.
Viсtor Shapovalov Makerbase added 32-bit support for their own boards to a Repetier base, probably version 0.9.2 originally (for the QQS) and maybe 1.0.x for later revisions (QQS Pro and Q5). They also added delta configuration and that is possibly where, if any, Marlin code base (1.0.x) was ‘borrowed’. Without source it is impossible to tell, but the large core of the firmware is Repetier, there is no doubt about it.
FLSun provides a good product, my (linear rod and bearing kit version) FLSun i3 is still running strong after three years and many mods later, with the only issue being a solder joint breaking off an end stop switch once.
Would you try Klipper firmware? Have seen someone on youtube print super fast on a (heavily modified) Anycubic Kossel with Klipper.
That twist in the Bowden tube will be creating some constriction and hence drag.
Hi Stephan, zuerst hatte ich sonderbare Probleme mit dem extruder, der knackte während des Druckens, dann starb scheinbar das mainbord. Er zeigt jetzt beim einschalten die Meldung an, dass das file fehlt. Ich denke, er Meint das Betriebssystem
Vielleicht BBC spendiere ich ihm ein Einsyboard. Oder ein Duet. Mal sehen.
Spiel doch mal Marlin drauf, ich hab erst gestern 2.0.7 dafür compiliert.
Coole Idee!
Would also be nice to see a comparison to & review of the Flsun QQ-S pro which is the slightly more expensive bigger sibling to this one.
I would be interested in his thoughts. have had my qqs pro for about 6 months and compared to my direct drive/v6 E3P, it gets print quality within striking distance of the ender at 2x or more speed.
Thx for the video
Is there a chance that you will test the performance of the printer with the mentioned upgrades? I'm in the market for a delta printer (tall narrow prints is a problem on moving bed designs) but I want clean prints or I can use lots of support material on a ender style printer
I have an FLSUN QQ-S and I'm not happy. It had trouble getting the print to stick to the bed. Auto levelling is poor, multipoint manual levelling didn't help. Then a fan broke, my own fault, but support was nearly non-existent. Couldn't get spare parts from FLSUN, had to find some on Ali myself. I bought a Prusa instead, that works and is a lot smaller with only a slightly smaller footprint and print volume. Still fascinated by the delta though, maybe I'll get it up and running again someday.
FLSUN Q5 and QQ-S are cheap but NOT RECOMMENDABLE FOR BEGINNERS!
You link to a FLSUN Q5 profile for Prusa Slicer, is there one for the QQ-S as well?
More details please on the upgrades you mentioned!
The screen looks like an mks tft28 which has its own firmware, essentially like another computer just sending commands to the mainboard. I think the board itself uses marlin and can be upgraded to klipper fw.
Another reason to replace the mainboard on this machine: Linear Advance is buggy with TMC2208s. Better to stick with TMC2209s instead.
Or you just replace the driver, its DIP.
Did you ever loosen that bottom zip tie along your tube, that might be crushing the feed tube a little 👍
2:20 Wipe that screen for your hero shot! lol
I was always wondering what the point of the 3 arm design is. Seems it's for speed? I would think that it's going to have terrible accuracy, due to the long arms magnifying any flex... and I would expect harmonics start reeking havoc above a certain speed. I just don't get how this design would ever be more effective than the "cartesian" design. If accuracy was not a concern I could see it being able to handle insane speeds, but that's the only advantage I can think of.
Not having a moving bed for y axis is a big plus, if you need small x-y dimension but very tall z delta are the way to go (have a look at the k280 by he3d). For the rest best compromise speed vs quality is core xy.
@CNC Kitchen:
Hi Stefan,
would you mind sharing your Prusa slicer profile. Mine is some kind of weird and so I do use Cura (derived from standard QQ profile). But there is a bug in Cura 4.7.X when doing circles with not being able to keep the speed constant and that way creating blobs. Not being able to have nice circles on a round build plate is not optimal to say the least.
My experience with the Q5 so far:
It is as great printer for the money you have to pay. But I am a little concerned about keeping quality. My printer is making a rattling noise when printig (especially infill). That noise comes from the print head and i was not able to locate it so far. I printed for about 200h which is not that much in my opinion. I think i will have to investigate this noise which is not too easy as the screws are hidden quite well. Apart from that i am totally pleased with it. I could sit and watch the movement of a delta for hours. It is such a beauty to see a delta printer doing it's business.
cheers (Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße)
Peer
Have you tried vacuum epoxy impregnation for prints?
Possible strength or water absorption property alterations would be very interesting.
Just ordered one
Just wondering - isn't this printer perfect for nonplaner printing? With this extended nozzle and with the theoretical ability of tilting the head.
Does anyone know how to change the steps / mm for x and y separately?
Got one for myself... Keep having trouble with Z offset, it doesn't seem to home in a repeatable manner.
Can you Review artillery genius
Willkommen im Club. :D
Ich hab den größeren QQ-S Pro. Sehr gute Maschinen und einfach zu upgraden.
Man kann aber Marlin verwenden.
Schau dich gern mal in der FLSUN Facebook Gruppe um. :)
Aha! Danke...🤔
also ich bin gerade am suchen wie ich den Einstieg in das 3 drucken schaffe, nur ob ich so einen Delta nehme, dafür hab ich mich schon zu sehr in einen Hersteller verliebt obwohl ich noch keine Erfahrung habe .-)
@@elofos0815 Rezensionen, Rezensionen und mehr Rezensionen anschauen, Vorteile und Nachteile vergleichen mit verschiedene Fabrikaten und Typen...sowohl warum du ins 3D drucken willst und dann augen zu und durch.
Die Lernkurve ist sehr steil. Weil du auch irgenda wann...wenn du nicht schon jetzt CAD zeichen wirst...Freecad ist sehr gut und frei...Tutorials überall zu finden.
Günstig muss nicht unbedingt "billig" heissen...und Teuer auch nicht unbedingt "gut"...Nichts ist Perfekt...alles ist und kann verbessert werden.
Viel Glück wünsche ich dir!!!
@@elofos0815 Wir haben alle bei 0 angefangen. Generell sind Delts nicht die besten ersten Drucker. Wobei der QQ-S auch mein Erster war. Es gibt ne große Facebook Gruppe für FLSUN Drucker die mir sehr geholfen hat.
Es hilft sehr, gerade wenn man upgardet, wenn man schrauben und löten kann. Ist aber kein Muss.
Viel Erfolg!
nunja den was ich im Auge habe gehört angeblich schon zu den flaggschiffen was den Preis angeht, aber einen clone oder Kopie will ich dann auch nicht, was ich halt nicht will gleich beim ersten Drucker nur am Geld zu sparen weil er schön billig ist und mir dann später nicht das Ergebniss liefert was ich zumindest an die qualität stelle, auf die Zeit kommt es erst mal garnicht an. Upgrades wie automatisches Filamentwechsel soll vielleicht dann auch offen bleiben.
So features wie Stromausfall und co ist ein MUSS, selbstkalibrierung vom Tisch zumindest wenn ich einmal die Basicsetting habe das er diese Punkte wiederfindet und noch so ein paar spielereien. Bausatz ist für mich kein Ding, löten kann ich zur not selber mal noch 2-3 Stecker und Ikea anleitungen verstehe ich bestens.
Mein Punkt ist halt noch immer der: PLA, ABS und co... was wird wann wie eingesetzt, letztendlich welches Material muss er mal verarbeiten können.
Bin also noch auf der Findung und Stefan ist zumindest mal eine Gewisses Startkatapult an Informationen, vielleicht findes ich ja hier weiterführende Ideen wo ich noch Inputs sammeln kann.
Bezüglich Stromausfall, bin ich gerade auf die Idee gekommen eine USV dazwischen zu hängen die dann ab einem gewissen Punkt dem Roboter sagt, schau das du die Schicht fertig machst und deinen Kopf parkst bis ich wieder am Netz bin, am ende übernimmt das dann sogar ein Raspberrypi der mit dem Drucker direkt kommuniziert, damit ich über's Netzwerk drucken kann bzw. über die Drucker eigenen Netzwerkschnittstelle.
Und ja Zeichnen ist mal Teil 2 meiner Erfahrung, ich hab nen technischen Zeichner an der Hand, jedoch Sketchup als Einstiegsdroge, ist denke ich ausreichend. am Anfang werde ich sowieso auf fertige Modelle zurückgreifen um den Fehler falsch zeichnen und falsch drucken auf eine Fehlerquelle zu begrenzen
Moin Stefan, I got a flsun qq-s pro as my first 3d printer and got a lemon... First it was great but it didn't age well... Belts bend right of the box, the bed warped very badly after a 2 weeks to the point that's unusable. Many others in the Facebook group have similar problems. And it also lost the leveling a few times on different firmwares (including marlin)