How FAST is KLIPPER REALLY? ...CHEAP BED SLINGERS go Ferrari mode?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Support 247printing on Patreon:
bit.ly/3CBbnpV
Faster printing is one the big things in FDM 3D printing at the moment!
Klipper might be one of the most advanced Firmwares and it's considered to be a speed at quality boost.
How fast is it really? I'll give you the answers!
247printing on social media:
----------------------------
Twitter bit.ly/3tSh8M2
TikTok: bit.ly/3FIHqWv
Instagram bit.ly/37b94yf
Discord bit.ly/3Cy5jPf
Bed Slingers used*:
-------------------
Kingroon KP3S (AliExpress): bit.ly/3RsK3Aw
Fokoos Odin-5 F3 (Fokoos) : bit.ly/3TDsBve
BIQU B1 (AliExpress): bit.ly/3TD4ywf
Artillery Hornet (geekbuying.com): bit.ly/3vSqxVB
Use code for 154.34€ (!): NNN3DGMAHT
Recommended FAST PRINTERS*:
---------------------------
Voron 0.1 (AliExpress): bit.ly/39kfWdC
Voron 2.4 (AliExpress): bit.ly/3PklmWE
Voron Trident (AliExpress): bit.ly/3yxMaNe
Mentions:
---------
Klipper Documentation: www.klipper3d....
3DPrintBeginner(Klipper Articles): 3dprintbeginne...
Teaching Tech (Klipper Videos): / teachingtech
Stefan's AutoFlowTestTool: • Easy Hotend Benchmark ...
Klipper Printer (FLSUN V400): • Welcome the super star...
*Can be affiliate links at no extra cost.
This video was amazing. The point you made about increasing profits by increasing output is absolutely correct. I run 20 ender 3s for my business and was going to phase out the i3 design for a Corexy machine and klipper. I realized klipper is the real reason for the speed increase and made the upgrade to all of my ender 3s and kept them. I print 100% faster now on klipper and has made me very happy business owner! I saved so much money by going to klipper. Never going back to Marlin
Thank you SO much!!
Did the quality also increase? I'm looking to convert one of my enders.
I hate it when people don’t reply! Great question!!! It’s great to see such a difference in speed however, what I want, is the highest quality at the highest speed and that might not be 100% faster but I’ll take 50% faster at a much higher quality…
Marlin 2.1.2 has experimental input shaping, so never say never :)
Nice. Except your parts are now WEAKER. As printing faster requires more cooling = poorer layer adhesion.
Great video! I am loving Klipper. It was awesome to see the realistic comparison with stock Marlin and Klipper with just default budget printer hardware. It is a question I have gotten quite a few times over the past year. This definitely took time to create both on the film and testing side. Awesome job brotha!
Thanks a lot, man - so nice you stopped by and left a comment! Yup, that was a lot of time for this video - also because the initial plan for this video was completely different to what I uploaded in the end :-)
Awesome video.... How much would the printers gain on all metal heatbreaks... Higher flow less retract and crisper extrusions...
First... ;)
And how about tpu? I have no luck with tpu on my all metal hotends
Thanks a lot, Nitram! Let's see if I'll make another video on those bed slingers. Some (little) upgrades might make a big difference...
Or just CHT - the highest bang for buck (ntm effort) of any printer upgrade.
@@daliasprints9798 sure but .. the all metal heatbreak is in my book a must have upgrade
@@Nitram_3d Yeah. I waited all too long to do it after hearing bad experiences with the old fat throat style and PLA. But I didn't get any real flow benefits. PA & quality improvement, unlocking new materials, and convenience of not having to fight with PTFE are all excellent tho!
Klipper was marketed incorrectly - at least for me. I had been told many times that its faster, that didn't interest me because I was dabbling in 32 bit boards and I could get plenty of speed out of Marlin. In reality it is vastly undermarketed and undersold at how much simpler and easier it is to work with. And its for this fact that i'm ditching Marlin across the board, not for the speed
But I disagree that Klippers documentation is fantastic. I find it rather poor because it doesn't really explain a lot of the 'why' and 'how' to set things up. It desperately needs short summaries and what to use, why you'd use it, and how to implement it correctly. Beyond just listing the commands and describing what the feature is. It's actually quite painful setting up Klipper on custom printers that have a mish-mash of components. It could also benefit massively from a direct partnership with Mainsail to include it in the installation and take some of the pain out of installation on systems other than an official raspberry pi (Kiauh on github helps immensely with this)
That said, once you do get it setup and working. It is enormously immensely better to fine-tune from that point on, try new features, make adjustments etc. Marlin is an absolute pain in the ass in comparison. And that - to me at least - is how Klipper should predominantly be pitched, it's so much friendlier and easier to actually work with and expand upon. If they could polish and make it easier to get your head around and get up and running with it, then it would be a very easy win that would completely push marlin out of the market. Speed is nice, convenience is far nicer
OK now I have to get Klipper 😆 two times faster is really mind blowing and seems worth the effort.
One of the few videos that correctly calls all those printers what they really are - Ender clones =)
Like for me just for that. All other info is on point as well.
you do realise the ender is itself a clone?
Wonderful video sir.
I love tinkering, so klipper has been a welcome addition. about 12 of my printers are on klipper, and most of them are cheap i3's.
The value of a $49 open box ender 3 pro, with a microswiss metal hotend + a CHT high flow nozzle is insane. I've found with converting to pei sheets from glass beds, running wheel tension on the light side just enough for no play, and a little extra stepper current, they can print reliably at 5k accelerations with up to 1kg on the bed. Adding the CHT nozzle is the hands down best way to add a ton of extrusion performance with no extra machine modifications.
Reliability has seemingly improved as well, I have a few klipper enders that run on the ragged edge of speed/accel with thousands of hours now with no needed maintenance besides bed cleaning. They've been going so long that they are missing so many current version Klipper/fluid features its almost annoying, however if it aint broke, don't fix it lmao
Amazing video! This took a ton of time, and you nailed what matters. I love pushing my machines and klipper allows for some fun prints. I was able to get the KP3S printing reasonably at 10k accel, with an H2 and linear railed Z
Thank you so much!
Started using Klipper because I built a Voron, but now having Klipper on a printer is a must for me
Freaking nice 10min overview of this OS. I didn't know about the other channels either. I thought Klipper was only for xy core systems. But know I might take a look at this Klipper OS for my Bed slinger as well. Excellent report👌. Keep it up pal 😎👍
Klipper has made using my printer so much nicer.
Is it difficult to switch from stock to klipper software? What should I do?
Great video, definitely a strong and compelling reason to try klipper.. Im discovering though that you can tweak firmware and hardware all you want its the slicer that makes or breaks your print.. configuration for specific filaments and profiles now THAT is a reading/comprehension nightmare and also, where I have the most difficulty. Unfortunately I learn more from seeing than reading
Is there any good documentation/video out there describing how to find minimum layer time/print speeds? Because it's the biggest issue I struggle with...
You found a weak point here: I just do it this way (that's the third video I used this method), but I never explained exactly how I do it and why it works. I don't know of any source that explains it. My simple method (that works so far): Print something pointed for min. print speed and print something fast with overhangs for min layer time (Benchy hull without infill). There might definitely be better or cleverer ways for that...
@@247printing Interesting, I'll try that, thanks!
Dear God, thats grazy speed up. My long term project is using klipper, will be interesting to see how self designed 3d printer will perform against stock factory made ones.
The voice said, I have to leave a comment. So I do. 🙂 Great Video!
Greate video and thank you for all insights and good information.
Thanks Heinz, very nice of you that you do what voice said AND that you watched the video to the end!
Hey Ingmar, thanks a lot for stopping by and commenting! Looking forward to our call next week!
huge thanks for this easy to understand showcase
I'm a long time Marlin user and I've wanted to better understand other options
I just watched video from a bearded bald guy who thinks he's the DJ Khaled of 3d printing and learned nothing, this video really cleared everything out
nice video brother ! well done. Klipper FTW !!
Thanks a lot Simon! So nice you stopped by. Congrats to 20k btw. - very well deserved!
@@247printing i watch every video you make man. You are my favorite voice on youtube haha
You should make a video on how to install Klipper on that Hornet there since there’s only videos of showing it off
Wouldn't it have made more sense to see how far you could push the speed on the default firmware first?
What's faster, 4 cheap printers or your 247 voron zero?
That question is very interesting - we discussed your comment at breakfast :-)
Assuming you'd print the same part on the 247zero four times in a row and on the four klippered cheap bed slingers, the Zero needs to be four times faster to be equal.
Never tested this actually and I assume that's hard to achieve (at same quality). A comparison: A stock Rat Rig V-Core-3 or a X1 Carbon are around three times faster than a stock Prusa MK3S+. I need to check out the relations when I come back to the 247zero soon.
I have an artillery hornet can you please share the settings that you used for your hornet so we can use them? Thank you
Wonderful Video for the Starters
Thank you very much, mate!
Great video, very useful to see the what to expect when upgrading. The new Marlin supports input shaping, would be interesting to see how it stacks up against Klipper as well.
I had planned to do some similar tests with my printer (Fokoos Odin-5 F3) but you've already done all the hard work. Thank you, great summary!
Thank you so much Bart! I'll enjoy two nice Leberkäse-Semmels with your gift :-)
You mentioned that you calibrate minimum layer time/cooling and minimum print speed.
I would be interested in the procedure as I tried to wrap my head around this already but have no idea for a systematic approach.
Input shaping and pressure advance are calibrated, acceleration and square corner velocity are tuned. The next step is to optimize cooling to improve print time for small parts.
By the way I'm using a modded ender 3 (CHT nozzle) so flow rate is the least of my problems 😅
You basically have to print models consecutively increasing/decreasing the settings you are tuning on each run, and going with the lowest/highest you find quality acceptable
I use the Benchy Hull without infill and top solid for the layer time and something small and potinted for minimum speed (iteratively). But I also still don't have a (good) idea for systematic approach other than that :/
needing a raspberry pi makes this a very expensive upgrade.
i need a alternative single board computer.
True, but check out BigTreeTech's CB1. And... let's hope those prices go lower soon. (Even though a sufficient PI3 is quite affordable on Ebay).
@@247printing i been looking at pi alternatives since i commented. i found a few great choices. between $40 - $90.
the CB1 looks good except 1GB ram isn't enough for a modern computer. i want 4GB minimum. since its not something you can upgrade later if you need to like a desktop i cant willingly buy a SBC with 1GB ram.
Ram is essential to performance. too little and it bogs down everything. too much and you just have wiggle room. no frustration there.
i been waiting so long to get a CM4 with 8gb ram and wifi but its been scalped to death. the brand is basically dead at this point. but i hope it can recover.
Just ordered a Neptune 4 Pro and have been thinking about upgrading my Vyper to Klipper for over a year, this has convinced me, liked and subbed :)
Nice comparison, I also run my ender 3 v2 at about 2x it's original speed with Klipper :) Or at least it now prints faster than my mk3s+ at nearly the same quality!
Hey Jon, thanks a lot !
Why on earth do you think Marlin cannot do this... I have an Ender 5 Plus under Marlin, pressure advance en input shaping and I am printing between 100 en 120mm/sec with clean results. It's a matter of configuring it and pass pressure advance parameter for each filament in gcode. Klipper is useful maybe on coreXY printers and maybe not that useful, it's all about marketing here.
Déjà vu.... When people comment about stuff/things/products/firmware they never tried/experienced
and eat a Leberkääääs !!!
Hey Daniel - oh yeah! Leberkaaaas always helps :-)
Meatloaf 🤣🤣
Super interesting! Thanks for the analysis. Oh goodness, one more rabbit hole to go down. There are too many in this hobby/industry!
We're discovering that even single board printers can manage input shaping and higher speeds, since new 32-bit boards have much more power than is utilized by Marlin. The extra computation uses a bit more energy, but not as much as tethering a Raspberry Pi. So, older printers can benefit greatly from a firmware upgrade with no change to the hardware. Upcoming versions of Marlin will include more advanced time-based motion and input shaping contributed by Ulendo, providing even better results with no change in electronics. So the future is looking bright and speedy for all legacy printers!
if klipper is so great and most users can do it themselves why dosnt it come on more printers? im just curious is all. im highly considering buying the FLsun v400 that comes factory with klipper. but if its so great why are manufacturers using it more?
Good question - I think it takes time to evaluate and adapt. The V400 was a good first attempt (see my comparison video) and also BIQU made a good start with the Hurakan. Klipper is 👌 for DIY people, but still needs to prove that it’s mass compatible - looks like that though
@@247printing do you think the v400 is polished / reliable enough to be my only printer? Or should I just get a mk3s+ and call it a day.
I used the V400 only for my last two videos for printing the print time comparisons and it always worked without hassle (default firmware- and slicer settings).
I could recommend that or having a look at the Bambu Lab P1P if this is around you budget. You can check out my other videos with the V400 (compared to X1C and V2.4).
@@247printing thank you for the response! :)
I’ve looked into the bambu labs X1C and considered it. But it seems very proprietary and it worries me a little bit that if to many people buy it the 3d printing world will become a anti consumer one size fits all “apple ecosystem”. So buying from bambu labs is a little complicated in my mind lol!
I do like the printer. I just don’t know how I feel about their approach is all haha. I may try out the v400. It looks very interesting to me as I don’t have any klipper experience yet. One thing I don’t like about the v400 was their customer service. I reached out to them and asked them some questions and they either didn’t understand English or didn’t care enough to respond. They sent me a email back with a link to their RUclips channel… lol. Customer support is a huge deal to me so that’s a huge knock against FLsun sadly
Your artillery hornet is printing mirrored on the X axis. You could set the homing direction to "max" instead of "min", just like the voron switchwire.
Thanks a lot and congrats: You found one of the easter eggs in this video :-) Just kidding: I realized it only when doing the editing of that video :-)
You're welcome, greetings from Niedersachsen
Greetings from Niederbayern 👍
Hi würdest du klipper bei ein Turnigy Fabrikator empfehlen? Es hat arduino mega 2560 mit ramps 1.4 als Mainboard. Und hat 12V psu falls das eine Rolle spielt. Würde mich sehr über Rückmeldung freuen! LG aus dem Bundesland Österreich @@247printing
@@247printinghi würdest du klipper auf dem alten Drucker Turnigy Fabrikator (Arduino mega 2560 ramps 1.4 als Mainboard und 12v netzteil).
Bisschen Kontext: Hab da das aktuellste marlin drauf laufen und hab es gemodded damit ich ein pei druckbett haben kann. Der Drucker ist uralt aber schneller als mein neuer. Und ich habe einen alten thin Client (AMD E450) aus Windows 7 Zeiten rumliegen der extrem schlecht ist mit einem niedrigeren single core benchmarkwert als raspberry pi. Linux mit Desktop läuft eher langsam aber ohne Desktop Environment mit mehr RAM könnte ein Versuch wert sein. Mir geht's hauptsächlich darum, ob der Drucker an sich klipper betreiben kann oder eher keine gute Idee? Das mit dem thin Client wäre ein Versuch dem Gerät neues Leben einzuhauchen
Lg
Trying to get this working on MINGDA Magician X but I'm a noob, help :( Any help would be amazing +++
The printer itself doesn't matter really - it's the mainboard. Check out which mainboard (including which chip) it comes with and if there is support from Klipper - after this it's easy.
Nice comparative. I would like see in more deepth about the bed slinger accelerations vs printer mods. I've seen people talking about how stiffer springs, changing the tension on the belts and reinforcing the frame have changed the values but hardly anyone has shown the results.
You can watch some of my videos at high acceleration without any mods to the Ender 3 motion system.
That would be very interesting indeed!
Very nice Albert.
I use thanks you Klipper.
Gruß
Albert
Hey Albert, thanks a lot! Gruß, Albert :-)
Great video. I am just currently setting up Klipper on my voron 0 and this video just pushed my motivation 💪
9:12 "On the other hand, reading, trying, and succeeding with new topics is fun in the end right?"
I was almost expecting a "that's why I love Curiosity Stream" sponsorship after that sentence 🤣💀
i have a question so i have my first printer but i need to know will this void my warranty and if so is it worth voiding my warranty because if this printer break i can't afford to get a new one
Honestly a lovely, informative video. Keep doing what you're doing, I couldn't help but feel suprised your subs don't match quality of information I was given with this video.
Wow, thank you so much - I had goosebumps reading this :-)
Great video, you convinced me as a 3D printing newbie to deepdive into klipper right now and then install it on my Ender 3 Pro! :D
Thanks and yes: Do it. It's still worth it to understand Klipper! I also did it on an Ender 3 pro and the speed/quality upgrade is awesome!
Upgrading marlin (hours) vs upgrading klipper (seconds).
Compiling Marlin takes 20-30 seconds. All you have to do then is transfer the generated .bin file to a sdcard, boot your printer with it installed and wait for the flashing process to end (a few seconds). All you do to configure Marlin is edit two text files.
I don't see too much of a difference there, huh?
Nah men, just as with Klipper there are already a lot of ready to run firmware configs, get the bin on an sdcard and 20 seconds later you are set up
@@alejandroperez5368doing that on klipper takes 3 seconds, and you can do all of it from your pc, no sd cards
@@Lucas_sGarageif you need to config a sus printer it would take so much longer on marlin
@@Fantastika it would take roughly the same since you need to figure out the settings, lets's not even talk about the docent printers that they have a preset for in config examples and the 80+ mainboards that they support including a custom one and a simulator
Some said that a 0.6 mm nozzle will drop a similar amount of print time. Maybe a bigger nozzle + klipper will really change the speed to 4x.
Actually, even with a bigger nozzle, cooling still is the issue on many prints. Also it depends on the objects, if it is OK to use a bigger nozzle.
On the other hand, klipper might some upgrades profiable: To increase flow of the hotend, just use a bondtech cht nozzle. For cooling, you might try Berd Air. Two easy and cheap upgrades which can push the limits of your printer a lot
@@oleurgast730 More cooling = weaker parts. I'm not convinced yet.
@@alejandroperez5368 More plastic in the same time needs more air in the same time to get the same(!) cooling! If you print faster, the airflow from the part cooler on the printhead touches the part a shorter time - so you have to increase airflow to get the same(!) cooling. You can increase airflow on the printhead (Berd Air) or an auxilary fan (like the X1 carbon does).
With 4-times the speed (or to phrase it more precise: 1/4th overall printtime) you need 4-times of airflow for the same(!) cooling.
Please make a video about the minimum time and minimum speed calibration! I never found anything helping to tune them!
I use the Benchy Hull without infill and top solid for the layer time and something small and potinted for minimum speed (iteratively). But I also still don't have a (good) idea for systematic approach other than that :/ As soon as I have, there might be a video.
Great tutorial/ comparison dude, for me, marlin gets the job done, i think that has a lot more features, plus it's the main board and that's it, of course, for speed printing Klipper for now is unrivaled, on that side... I run my Anet e10 with linear advance at 3k accel and 75-100mm/s average speed in Prusa slicer with pretty much no ringing, no lost steps, and great print quality, but, that's just me, last, watch out for the arm CPUs, they are getting REALLY fast
Thanks a lot, mate! sounds good!
Thanks for another beast mode video brotha ! as always the work is bitchin ! :)
Thanks a lot, Jeff!
Another key thing that increases productivity, that isn't directly related to how fast the machine can operate, is having a web accessible UI. If you're printing a lot, the time saved from not having to move files to and from physical storage media adds up.
I'm not as driven by speed for klipper as I am tired of making changes, compiling code, said compiling failing, fixing errors, recompiling, flashing printer, testing out changes, making more changes, recompiling code... you get the idea. Klipper allows for rapid changes and even allows for input shaping and pressure advance settings on the fly, even without the bits and bods to do it 100% correctly. Marlin just isn't that quick and dirty. You can do it, but the latest flavor of Marlin seems to have a lot more checks and balances built in, most of which won't cause any damage to your printer. I can't tell you how many times I've had compiling fail, cryptic error messages just to take out changes to make it compile. I have an Ender 3 that I have been messing with Klipper on and I'm looking at my other running printers just because I like being able to change Klipper, test it out, change it back if I don't like the results, all in about the time it takes to copy firmware to an sd card...not true, but you get the idea.
Absolutely, that's one of the strongest pros of Klipper also for me. When I started with FDM and "printers as projects" back in 2017 I chose Smoothieware, because the processes involved with Marlin drove me insane.
While Klipper can of course can not change the hardware limitations of your printer, like max volumetric flow and cooling, with klipper you actually can now make use of already existing good solutions. For example a Bondtech CHT boost up your volumetric flow without any further hardware modification. Just a change of nozzle.
Also there is a cool cooling solution called "Berd-Air" to improve cooling.
With upgrading to Klipper the next upgrades follow eventually...
great video ! love it, I run klipper too on a ender 3 and it's a beast ! I do print with esun pla+ with a orbiter 2.0 DD and a E3Dv6 but I've got a lot of small stringing, do you have printing seting to avoid thoses ? like retraction speed or retraction lenght ? thanks a lot !
Do a retraction tower to find the appropriate value.
Dein Intro / Soundtrack allein hat mich dazu gebracht sofort zu abonnieren!
Es gibt viel zu wenig Stoner Rock auf der Welt!
Danke Sebastian freut mich sehr! RUclips videos dürfen schon auch ein bisschen pushen oder? Voice over ist aber viel zu langsam gesprochen stellte ich grad fest mit bisschen Abstand 😅
For some reason I thought that klipper was something meant for high end printers...Well that was until I learned about macros. It was delightfully easy and simple to install and get running.
Thank you very much! You inspired me to switch from Marlin to Klipper on my Artillery Hornet. I also tuned input shaping using the ADXL345 sensor obtaining amazing results on the ringing tower model!
However I am now finding some difficulties on bringing high speed onto "normal" prints, despite no problems on the ringing tower.
I am currently trying to print at around 90 mm/s and max accel set to 3000 with poor results (usually, some of the final layers won't extrude anymore or extrude badly with visible holes).
Do you, by any chance, remember which settings you used for speed/acceleration on the hornet?
Thank a lot and keep doing that!!
OK after reading numerous test about setting up Klipper for Printers I do not own, FINALLY a video on just howe good is the end result. I heard 2X faster, limited by cooling. Then I thought about that, WAIT. A bigger Fan and custom cooling ducts can ne bought and printed for next to Cheap. What stopped you from going the extra 10 yards, 3 meters whatever to actually chase the best you can get from Klipper with a little help. I am all for the new science the is allowed to come into play. But why hangchuff it by saying you can't change anything else. In my case I have a 3 year old CR 10S Pro V1 with upgrades, Pi 4 with Octoprint, Microswiss DD and Hot end, BL Touch, Z azis Struts and Garolite Bed. OK Now I am still printing at 60 mm/s and I still mess up layer one and my parts take forever to complete. So $140 to add Pad 7, My support guy says 2 ours for $100 he can set up right. Then we get into the what's next: Hotter and Faster Hot end, Better part cooling, Linear Rails X & Y No that adds up yes but you can space it out and say in 6 months have a better machine. How much better, frequency of layer 1 failures, Speed to print, Quality of finished part how many rejects, reprints? I even get my Corvette tuned by a specialist just to get a few extra Horsepowers And he costs $500. So why not Invest in the old boy, I Like it and if it was more reliable, cleaner prints and faster That is a big plus. What do you think? 1st Pad 7, 2nd Cooliing fan and duct, 3rd Faster Hot End, 4th Linear rails. 1st $240 with tune, 2nd $60, 3rd $200 guess, 4th $200 estimate. So $520 for the whole mess and what will you have. Your 3 year old Bed Slinger now 4 years old Printing twice as fast if not more, Zero failed Prints, Never need to reprint, 2 parts in the time of one before. Less waste in material and time. Only Option is $1,000 or more and that would be a Core XY with an enclosure. Unless you can lighten the bed on the 10S Pro you are limited, But with the technology Klipper brings to the printer You are not leaving much behind. My thoughts, what are yours???
This is why Ive been trying to setup Klipper and then now with direct drive for the past month but having a hard time.
Does Klipper run on stock boards? I've a ender 3 Max Neo, am I better upgrading the board too, to say a SKR MINI E3 V3 or the likes? Or go with a Raspberry Pi? I must have speed!!!! 🤪
I guess i need to get klipper coupled with my 0.6mm nozzle in my effort to decrease print times with my ender 3.
Just one question. The LCD screen included in the Artillery Hornet is supported by Klipper? thanks in advance.
Short answer, AFAIK: Yes
@@247printing thanks for such an immediate response!
Great Video, how can i determine layer time and min print speed of my printer?
Thank you! Didn’t find a perfect generic procedure for that, but I use sth pointed for min print speed and something fast with overhangs for layer time (hull of a benchy with low infill)
Thank you for sharing. Well presented, enguaging ,enjoyable to watch. Learned a bunch about Firmware differences today. Will look into Klipper for my next printer. Worth watching
This was a great video! You exactly pointed out what I was experiencing the last week. I got an ender 3 v2 with direct drive conversion, 2 big radial part cooling fans and a dragonfly bms hotend. klipper improved my print time about 100%. Its really crazy seeing this ender 3 move at such accelerations and speeds. didnt wanna buy a pi for too much money, so I put PI OS into a VM on my laptop and its working great. it was some work, getting input shaping right without the sensor etc but it was absolutly worth it. klipper is so much better. I also used my old galaxy s6 as a screen with KlipperScreen.
You may be printing twice as fast, but your parts are also weaker. Do you print functional parts or just decorative stuff?
@@alejandroperez5368 I cannot tell you what Iam printing(hence its illegal), but I can ensure you that the parts are very functional and working under high stress.
@@gehtsienixan4442 I command you to tell me what it is you're printing. Dildos ?
It's really bad that klipper still does not allow separate x and y accelerations even with 2 separately developed pull requests and numerous discussions on github, discourse, reddit, discord, etc.
Lately they also broke the limited_cartesian code that Piezo developed, so I've gone back to marlin.
If I can get 15k on X and 8k on Y and I'm printing a thin object (ex. airfoil), I'll take the speed boost over Klipper features every time.
This was a VERY informative video, thank you... I just bought an Ender 3 V2 Neo on sale and its my first printer. As a rookie in this, what do you recomend me ? Not install anything extra and use the printer as is, install Octoprint, Klipper or OctoKlipper ?
Same result I can get with my kid adjusted and calibrated fokoos f5 with marlin. It's simply hardware limit like 3700 acceleration e.t.c. Input shaping only help a bit for ghosting, ringing. Must important factor is Linear advance(pressure compensation or there some other terms as well). Need proper adjust everything on printer, there even skew by 1/10mm on belt can make crappy surface on print. All must be aligned and calibrated what must manufacturers don't do or do wrong way - shame, customer should get out of the box properly adjusted e.t.c. , not every person are engineers
Excellent video! I agree! the marketing for these new 3D printers are misleading, yes the print head moves faster but you have to lower the layer height to compensate. I can actually print faster with a slower moving print head and my usual layer heights. The input shaping with the accelerometer could be game changing I will definitely explore this in the future.
very good (and useful) comparison!
Could you send me a download link for your Biqu B1 kipper firmware & Prusa Configuration? I have constant issues getting my Biqu B1 to function especially with a probe. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Have you tested a lk5 pro I have one and ordered a second since it was cheap and I’m wondering what I could do to make it faster anything over 100mm I get zits but it prints so I might upgrade from cura and see if that helps
Never heard of this printer - which brand is this? 100mm/s is quite fast though 👍
@@247printing it says it can handle up to 180mms so 100 is kinda slow I got it on eBay used for 170$ so I’m not complaining
Longer lk5 pro
Well made video! I'm on the fence but will likely take a plunge into Klipper in the near future.
I have tuned input shaper and linear advance inside marlin and I have been able to increase my acceleration to 3000 from 600 and double the print speed, without loss of quality
Not sure if you check comments but what program do you use for the graphs?
It’s PowerPoint 😇
@@247printing haha thanks
Hey, thanks for vid. Do you mind sharing which accelerometer you used? Thanks.
Please share your Biqu B1 firmware and cfg file.
It looks like you have it working well.
Thanks
Mark
Great video. I've been thinking about making the switch to Klipper. Tired of recompiling to add or remove a feature... I also like to go fast. if you aint first yer last.
Thanks a lot, Ben!
Can you share configs .cfg?? I'm trying to make good prints with artillery Hornet but had some problems
Hello have the sonic pad and been looking to hook up to FOKOOS Odin 3 with no way to understand how to flash the board no info on internet is their any way to get the info or step by step cause I’ve been looking for a month already driving me crazy
What other material than PLA can be printed on that fast? I do not print toys…only functional parts from other materials and all of those requires to slow down…otherwise it will fail.
Well you were certainly correct we were going to see Klipper on more and more printers out of the box! The gains we see are even more impressive than you got in this video as well.
Great Video, but it really got me thinking about one thing. Why would anyone buy one of those Ender clones when they are super no name and even more expensive than an actual ender 3? 😅
Exactly the video i were searching for. Thanks for the clear review, gonna go read some documentation and make printer brrr
For acceleration bound moves, time cost of the move doesn't scale inversely with acceleration but inversely with the square root of acceleration. You need 4x the acceleration to halve print time. (This isn't quite true because moves start at nonzero junction velocity, but it's still close.) This is why the giant boosts to acceleration, while they help a lot, don't give you the proportional time saving you might expect.
Yup, simple math for that, when isolating the gains by increased acceleration for certain geometries. As it is complex as a whole and concerning realistic/different geometries, it's more of a statistical topic. In this case here we had 6x to 8x the acceleration, up to doubled the print speed and carefully optimized retracts/z-moves in comparison to the baseline and managed achieve a max of half of the print time.
@@247printing Yep, the gains will be less if you're already reaching cruise at the lower accel or somewhere in between. Only if you can increase max speed by the square root of the accel factor at the same time would you expect the full scaling, and that's still not accounting for retraction times.
Hey thanks for this informative video. I am using klipper on my CR10 and m Voron V2.4 and i love them. Sadly, i wasnt able to get Klipper running on my FLsun SR delta printer (watched teacking techs guide and read a lot)... where it would make most sense :D Maybe you could give me some help here? I am from germany btw. so communication is not the problem at all ;D greetings
Thanks a lot. That's strange that it didn't work :/ I am sure you'll find a solution - mostly it's a small little flaw that keeps it from working.
Unfortunately I don't have the time for personal consultation. But maybe check out the 247printing Discord Server or the official Klipper Discord Server 👍
i made my own printer with wood and scrap i found around
i installed marlin on a ramps 1.4 with arduino mega
it works fine and i got the settings dialed in so good , my printer is better than an out of the bow ender 3
klipper is too complicated and the hardware is expensive to run it , it also takes alot of time to set up
so imma skip until slicer compatibility forces me to change
Awesome video that was great help! Subscribed for more♥
Awesome video!
Cheers for summarizing so much!
Thanks a lot Haensel (und Gretel auch)!
Does klipper automatically suggest and implement the faster print speeds or do you have to take its test results and input them manually into each print?
There is a pretty good fan duct mod on thingyverse for the hornet that replaces the entire head shell and directs the air flow directly on the very tip of the extruder.
I have found sparse information at best for the MK3s+
Is there a one stop shop for the path to install klipper with an MK3s+?
could you pass the printer.cfg configuration file for the artillery hornet?
I tried Klipper on a Pi 3 and spent about an hour trying to get it to connect to my network without success. I gave up in the end.
Recently switched to Klipper on my Artillery Sidewinder X2 and I'm loving it so far. Do you have a process you use to calibrate your minimum layer time, maybe a gcode file or cura script you use?
I also have an X2 and preparing to switch to klipper, did you push print speed to the limit?
I'm curious if something like 210mm/s is achievable
@@pietrom2642 The volcano hotend of the X2 can comfortable extrude a flow of 25mm/s^3. You could conceivably crank your speed up to 350mm/s with a 0.4 nozzle at 0.2m layer height. I usually print at around 200mm/s with 3K acceleration, but I'm going to play with those numbers more when I get input shaper set up.
Howdy - is it possible to test your Klipper firmware for Fokoos Odin 5 please?
There is a Fookos Odin config on official Klipper GitHub.
No one talks about duet3d anymore. 4 years back that was the hot topic. What happened
Where did you get theb test prints for the auto cooling settings. That is something I would like to dial in
"Klipper may be one of the most advanced firmwares" way to commit there
love the music (please do not switch music genre), the editing, the narration, the bloopers, and the entire channel.
Thanks a lot! I am very happy you like it!
Interesante comparativa. lo que no entiendo es porque no pasar directamente esos parametros al firmware original. si das mas aceleracion al la maquina seguro que vas a ir mas rapido.
Would you be able to provide me with the config for the hornet please ?
Doesn’t a significant increase in speed is also a significant reduction in the life of all components?