If someone is new to Klipper (or RRF for that matter), please notice how Michael repeats "just save and restart" - there's no firmware flashing to change those rather complex settings.
sweet.. i'm always annoyed by the need to reflash after each fundamental config. Repetier has an extensive EEPROM, but still don't cover everything (also 8bit).
Using I2C with long wires you need to add a stronger pull up on the remote end to account for the increased capacitance of the transmission line. The Adafruit ADXL board has a 10K pull up, changing that to a 4k7 will give you more reliable signal. Also make sure you keep them far away or shielded from the high current lines for heaters and steppers.
I struggled with this for a while. Don’t be like me and re-crimp, re-wire, re-solder; try a short cable with 3v & Ground first. If it works now, cut off any excess wire then maybe swap out the resistor 😁
@@kouji71 i didn't catch how its controlled. Does the pi just feed gcode to the printers existing main board over serial? And do you just rase the main boards jerk and acceleration values way up so it would then uses the new defined settings fed with the g code?
Michael, Please keep up the Klipper content, and, "Dare" I say it, go DEEPER down the rabbit hole. I believe it to be a GREAT firmware, it's biggest hurdle to overcome being that tipping point of acceptance where there are so many tutorials, that one can't help but find the explanation/tutorial/inspiration/guidance one needs. .... Thanks, for all you do...............
After this and based on the comments, I will be converting a bed slinger to see how it goes. Any particular features you think I should try? I will run KlipperScreen on the other printer to try it out.
@@TeachingTech particular features, ... I like them all TBH. For me it's the complete package, that I like, Input Shaper w/accelerometer, pressure advance, No recompiling, can access from my desktop,laptop, .. phone......
That speed is absolutely crazy I can't believe that kind of quality is possible with speeds like that. I am fairly sure if I set my lk4 to speeds like that the hot end would just climb off the gantry and slap me.
Amazing content. That's one of the best 3D printer videos I watched the last year. You are an outstanding RUclips creator and if this other RUclips creator ever accuses you of stealing again, show him this comment.
Thats really cool; glad to see there are people in the fdm space still doing other stuff than seeing if they can make their printer another $10 cheaper. Id gladly pay a premium for a printer that does all this well out of the box, but as far as I know neither prussa or ultimaker have been pushing the envelope here.
@@ChrisD__ Creality Ender 3 of e-bay for $197, and PLA is $14 a KG... It's not going to get any cheaper, and if it did, you don't want it, likely... Now you know what to ask for for Christmas...
You wanna know what's weird? I just have the package of two ADXL345 modules in my hand while I check the latest videos from my subscriptions. This is MEANT TO BE! I can't wait to put these babies to use!
It's really amazing to see just how far 3d printing has come in the last 10 years. I bought my first 3d printer back when they were just announced and there have been countless improvements to software, techniques, filaments and hardware since then.
I’m so glad youtube recommended this to me. This will make my prototype prints go even faster which means I can bring sample products to market even quicker without sacrificing quality
Even though it takes a second for this video to get to the point, after watching hundreds of tuning videos I must say this is one of the best put together instructionals and covers many important points. Kudos!
I also tried Klipper with a CoreXY printer, and I fell in love with it! The first love was OctoPrint, and this second one is much more deeper. :) It is like starting to race with a nice street car. With shiny multi tone metallic paint, leather seats, quality car audio, beautiful rims, all the fancy things. Then you reach the limits of that car, and build a dedicated race car. Shaving off all the fancy things, and you only keep the necessary ones, but use the best of those. This is how you find a whole new level of racing. Klipper with Fluidd is the dedicated, purposely built race car of 3D printer world. :)
I just started using input shaper / klipper on my ender 3 v2 and it's sweet! Manual tuning of input shaper is a lot easier than I thought it would be with great results.
You are a best source what ever i tend to do. a year ago i bought ender 3 pro, and i have set up the visual studio and compiled my custom setup and upgraded to direct drive and bltouch, while changing my driverboard to skr mini e3 with octoprint. it has been really easy to learn all of this in a year. Now I'm dreaming of updating to clipper and making voron 2.4 for larger and faster printer. The old prints abs and tpu without problems, but many prints do not fit into ender and it is still slow. But thanks to you, everything has been like playing with legos.
I think the voltage drop issue was an electrical interference issue. I had it when I wired up my accelerometer with a comparable cable loom. When I pulled the wires apart though, it started working.
I love your vids. I have an original ender 3 that I bought everything that you can get to upgrade it now I’m just having a hell of a time getting it all together correctly and then I thought I might as well throw a raspberry pi in it and try running klipper on it. I’m so new to this I kinda jumped in with both feet and got over my head. But with your videos and my so called knowledge I can get this working.
There were already videos on RUclips (nero3dp for example) but at least it's nice that a bigger channel is mentioning it so that more people are aware of such a cool feature
Great Work! Im so happy that you seem to love Klipper too and i hope that your series will make it even more popular and push development. Since i got into 3D printing i was excited about pushing the speeds and quality and Klipper has some really nice tools to do so. You show that perfectly. Keep up your great work, we can all learn a lot in your Videos.
Instead using the macros to turn on and off the led you can use the switch in the fans and output section. If you add the pwm section in the [output_pin] you can also change the brightness with a slider in the same fluidd section
Could you elaborate on that? If the fan output runs on 24V hows do I run a single 2V led of that? Or does it require to install 12 leds to fill the 24V output?
Thank you! Just sorta surprised you sliced with S3D, a slicer that has not been improved for more than 2 years - which in this industry is like a lifetime ago. Also - having the accelerometer wired directly to the motherboard, and not to a Pi, helps us eventually get rid of a Pi.
You can use the marlin version of calibrating pressure advance, you just have to replace the lines for changing the pressure advance via note pad. It's way faster and easier to read IMO.
I am so glad I ordered mine 3 weeks ago...the wait time to get one of these superb printers will get much longer. What a fantastic bit if kit with such awesome hardware and software. Also thank you Michael for you impressive knowledge and videos of how to get all this cobbled together
thank you so much for doing this series. i think you convinced me that, one day in the future when i have the cash, i could do this, or a similar, build. these tutorials were top notch - informative but easy to understand.
Awesome video. Cant wait to try this on reprap. Have my sensor mounted and wired just waiting for reprap 3.4. Hope they replicate that auto tuner. Impressive.
Another great video. I’m learning so much with each video you post. Thank you for sharing. P.S. Extra points for the Senna hoodie…. Senna was a god! RIP
aaaah the vid many been waiting for! :D Excellent preparation for the topic, great execution. Good stuff. Was a good watch :) p.s. glad to have helped, thanks for the credits :)
Thanx for this build series of the RatRig, it is seriously swaying me to build one. Hopefully, once the pandemic has run its course, I can invest in importing one and then building it.
Been waiting for 4th video in this series and you didn’t disappoint Michael. Thank you. Excellent content as always and you explain all the tricky stuff so well. Definitely considering a Rat Rig build thanks to this series and I’m sold on Klipper. Keep it up.
the rat rig look nice but i decided to build a voron 2.4 cant wait to get the parts to build it some of what u did in this video will apply to tuning the voron
I will definitely go for Klipper... I can't live with the whole slicer-carves-things-into-stone compilation. I'm hoping to find a more Just-In-Time compilation paradigm in there with sensor feedback.
I'm building a BLV MGN printer and this is helping with ideas for it. Klipper is new to me but this does help ease the tension to get things going. Still thinking about a high flow hotend for the printer. Stuck between Nova and the mosquito+ hotend. Nova is have the prices overall though. Thinking about what I want to get done is fairly fun.
@@TeachingTech Hopefully by looking at the Rat Rig config I can take what i learn from that and apply it to the BLV set up. I would have gone Rat, however, there was not a metal kit for it at this current time. That being mounts for the linear rails and hotend fixture. Waiting on parts to come in is unbearable as I want to program and test stuff for the fun of it. Fun never the less.
Thank you for covering the concept of using the non-planar printing question, since I was one of the people who asked about it a future video on it after rewatching the original video. I'm still too lazy to build my own printer like this or the voron or hovort, so I haven't watch many build streams/videos on them.
Wow, that combo of print speed and quality is just incredible! I’m tentatively considering a V-Core 3 for my next/ultimate 3D printer, but the one thing missing is dual extrusion. (I know RRD has an IDEX model, but I want the CoreXY speed and accuracy.) When I asked, they told me that some community members are working on an IDEX mod, but that CoreXY makes it tricky. I hope it works out; that’s the only limitation I see to this being the “ultimate” 3D printer for me!
IDEX on CoreXY is not ideal if speed is what you're after, since you're putting a ton of extra weight on the gantry, which is already the bottleneck. The difference in speed between a CoreXYU/V (IDEX on CoreXY) and IDEX on a cartesian is probably negligible, minor at best. Another challenge with CoreXYU/V is equal belt tensioning between the extra set of belts. A toolchanger makes more sense on CoreXY in that respect, but is also harder to design.
@@miklschmidt Ah - many thanks for that insight! Maybe a RatRig V-Cast IDEX is what I should be looking at then. I dislike the whole concept of a moving Y-axis though. (Maybe I just need to save my pennies until I can afford an E3D Toolchanger. That’s a *lot* of pennies though :-/)
@@DEtchells Tbf corexy has a moving Y axis as well, but yeah when the Y axis is the bed, it makes things tricky to scale speedwise :) Indeed, that thing is pricy. There are DIY options such as the Jubilee (one of the printers that inspired the V-Core 3) that might be worth looking into?
@@miklschmidt Yeah, it’s the idea of moving the whole mass of the bed plus the part that bugs me. Huh, I hadn’t heard of the Jubilee before, I’ll have to check it out; thanks again! (Although tbh, I’d rather print things to build other stuff than spend even more time building a 3D printer :-)
I’ve been out of the 3D printing game for a while, looking to get things going again.. one of the things I always pushed was my speed and quality.. this seems to take that to a whole new level… will have to look at these ratrig’s when they become more available,
note that input shaping is calibrated before pressure advance (using set_pressure_advance advance=0 if tuning shaping manually without accelerometer), and then with calibrated shaping you need to re-calibrate pressure advance again. for high-resonating printers pressure advance can change significantly.
The second i heard "acceloremeter" it clicked, it is just so obvious and can be used for all sorts of things... like... actual feedback from the head, so that the board actually knows if something is moving.. It should be able to run full calibration now, all parameters that are about the head movement... jerk, velocity max.. all of it. Now we need an optical sensor for the filament and i have an idea for that.. Place a rudimentary camera (sensor+lens) after the extruder. Use the indentations that the extruder motor makes to the filament to detect motion. Needs clever piece of lighting, probably a low power laser will do it.
I’ll be implementing a laser/ ir diode combo on my printer because reliability is key, laser under nozzle could detect nozzle jams instantly, filament run out, layer width (for calibration purposes), and lifting of print off the build surface (part would block laser path) I made a post on Reddit discussing it more in depth
Hi Michael! Thanks for another great video, as usual! Can you please make a video about using a relay to power on and off the printer with fluid or mainsail os ?
Amazing series. I have followed this (Getting lost in places - rewind) but can see the great results showing you get what you pay for but given the correct tools and motivation you can alway improve what you get. I can see a lot of tweaking for the boat race coming up, the test gear reporting at the time of printing your sound system was playing... What next? Dual axis mirroring the movement like noise canceling headphones?
I saw a mirrored setup on a forum many years ago. It was really big and complicated. In the end the designer decided it wasn't worth the effort and abandoned it.
This is a fabulous series Michael. I wait for each part with more anticipation than I ever did with GOT. Made me finally do the right thing and support your patreon. Absolutely brilliant.
Manual tuning (mentioned at the beginning of input shaping section of the video)is much better option, doesn't take much time and reflects real printing conditions like desired speed,acceleration, filament being extruded, nozzle interfering with printed object etc.I tried both methods and found manual method far more superior-and is really easy to do.Also found pressure advance tuning pointless on direct extruder (just set up extrusion factor),pressure advance only make sense for bowden extruders.
Just want to say that fixing ringing and ghosting artifacts by software is really great, but it would be wise to also solve this problem using a granite or heavy base and have the 3d printer bolted to it, this will dramatically improve results. To have even more better results, have all the axis rails changed with more heavy and firm accurate rails. All the minuscule ringing will be absorbed by the mass of rails and base. This is why all of the precision CNC machines that are expensive uses heavy base and rails.
How far we are from a consumer grade "buy and start printing" 3D printer. Until there's a breakthrough, the 3D printer space is going to remain a tinkerer's wet dream.
I hate you so much right now! I just bought BTT screens for my printers and now I need to resell it! Klipper is so much more! OMG I love it!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone want to buy new BTT screen? Michael, keep doing really good job!
You should make some scale models of the 1992-1994 McLaren / Williams using some of these new techniques. You should also store your filament spools inside of a dehydrator, a la Maker's Muse, and feed directly from that dehydrator to the printer.
Some further ways to enhance your printer; - Real-Time 3D scanning of the print to automatically adjust and recalibrate settings on the fly if the printer's comparer realizes that something isn't adding up. - Adding some kind of vibration dampening to the entire printer assembly (especially the bed). - Give your printer an automatic "brush teeth" function to keep the extruder clean. - Adding features to your custom slicer, like; ---- Non-Planar Slicing ---- Load-Depensent Infill ---- Gradient Infill ---- "Elephant's Foot" Compensation ---- Variable Layer Height
The speed at which I was able to add pressure advance to my E3 V2 with Klipper compared to the messing about in Marlin was incredible. That alone has been enough for me to make the move!
Btw a word of warning: When I tried this I could go from 1800 Accel to 4000 easily. Tolerances were amazing and I saw no visual changes. However my dimensions got smaller and distorted by around 0.3mm. so If you go too far you might have issues! Amazingly I could still do 0.15mm for my moving parts at 4000 and 100mm/s
If someone is new to Klipper (or RRF for that matter), please notice how Michael repeats "just save and restart" - there's no firmware flashing to change those rather complex settings.
Good to know. I'm switching to Klipper to try this. Never used it before.
That's probably enough to get me to eventually switch to Klipper
Hi, Pawel... I love Klipper, but have my Lerdge here too... heheheheheh Neither save and restart... Just mark in th screen and it's working!
sweet.. i'm always annoyed by the need to reflash after each fundamental config. Repetier has an extensive EEPROM, but still don't cover everything (also 8bit).
@@Apophis-en9pi literally the only reason i switched and then I learned to love the different functions even more
Using I2C with long wires you need to add a stronger pull up on the remote end to account for the increased capacitance of the transmission line. The Adafruit ADXL board has a 10K pull up, changing that to a 4k7 will give you more reliable signal. Also make sure you keep them far away or shielded from the high current lines for heaters and steppers.
Thanks for the tips. It's been reliable since I ran the ADXL loom separately to the rest, you are spot on.
@@TeachingTech You can also try twisting positive negative pairs together to reduce crosstalk. That's what's done on Cat5e and up.
I struggled with this for a while. Don’t be like me and re-crimp, re-wire, re-solder; try a short cable with 3v & Ground first. If it works now, cut off any excess wire then maybe swap out the resistor 😁
@@pinaz993 I braided the adxl loom, works perfectly. :)
Also using shielded Ethernet cables for signal carrying works surprisingly well.
That accelerometer based input shaping is insane. Wow. I am seriously interested in building a klipper based machine at this point.
Pretty much any machine can be a klipper machine. Just need a raspberry pi.
@@Ibleoverhan build it bigger!
@@kouji71 i didn't catch how its controlled. Does the pi just feed gcode to the printers existing main board over serial? And do you just rase the main boards jerk and acceleration values way up so it would then uses the new defined settings fed with the g code?
im gona install it on my ender 3
@@kouji71 or an older PC. I will be running a few printers off of one PC.
Michael, Please keep up the Klipper content, and, "Dare" I say it, go DEEPER down the rabbit hole. I believe it to be a GREAT firmware, it's biggest hurdle to overcome being that tipping point of acceptance where there are so many tutorials, that one can't help but find the explanation/tutorial/inspiration/guidance one needs. .... Thanks, for all you do...............
I'm considering clipper for my cr 10 and modifying it to be a beast
After this and based on the comments, I will be converting a bed slinger to see how it goes. Any particular features you think I should try? I will run KlipperScreen on the other printer to try it out.
@@TeachingTech particular features, ... I like them all TBH. For me it's the complete package, that I like, Input Shaper w/accelerometer, pressure advance, No recompiling, can access from my desktop,laptop, .. phone......
Thanks for the reply. However you asked me to go deeper but listed stuff already in this series. Feel free to specify something I haven't tried yet.
@@TeachingTech If your going with a bed slinger, you should try a core XZ config.
That speed is absolutely crazy I can't believe that kind of quality is possible with speeds like that. I am fairly sure if I set my lk4 to speeds like that the hot end would just climb off the gantry and slap me.
I think my printer would snap its frame and catch on fire.
Amazing content. That's one of the best 3D printer videos I watched the last year. You are an outstanding RUclips creator and if this other RUclips creator ever accuses you of stealing again, show him this comment.
One of my first prints years ago was a blink fox. I didn't know the point of infill so it was 100% and took FOREVER lol
Brickfox lol
That's gotta be one BULKY Blink Fox 😂
Thats really cool; glad to see there are people in the fdm space still doing other stuff than seeing if they can make their printer another $10 cheaper. Id gladly pay a premium for a printer that does all this well out of the box, but as far as I know neither prussa or ultimaker have been pushing the envelope here.
this makes some ultra rigid setups $300 cheaper
Capitalism, baby!!
Build your first cash cow, then sit on your ass.
Making printers cheaper is still a good thing. I can't afford one still (highschool student :3) but it's getting close.
@@ChrisD__ Creality Ender 3 of e-bay for $197, and PLA is $14 a KG... It's not going to get any cheaper, and if it did, you don't want it, likely... Now you know what to ask for for Christmas...
@@ashkebora7262 meh
You wanna know what's weird? I just have the package of two ADXL345 modules in my hand while I check the latest videos from my subscriptions. This is MEANT TO BE! I can't wait to put these babies to use!
It's really amazing to see just how far 3d printing has come in the last 10 years. I bought my first 3d printer back when they were just announced and there have been countless improvements to software, techniques, filaments and hardware since then.
Thanks for showcasing my Build, with my enclosure!! GREAT CONTENT as always!
It looks incredible, well done!
@@TeachingTech Thanks! Appreciate it!
I’m so glad youtube recommended this to me. This will make my prototype prints go even faster which means I can bring sample products to market even quicker without sacrificing quality
Even though it takes a second for this video to get to the point, after watching hundreds of tuning videos I must say this is one of the best put together instructionals and covers many important points. Kudos!
The educational value of your content is priceless
That is very impressive! Have got a cheap slow 3d printer here, watching videos like this puts me in awe.
Klipper can help even cheap, slow printers. Give it a try, I know I'm glad I did!
Using an accelerometer and input shaping is really cool
Yes. And the next step should probably be active oscillation suppression right during the printing by constantly monitoring the acceleration.
I see this being used to detect skipped steps too. Like the Prusa method but better.
I also tried Klipper with a CoreXY printer, and I fell in love with it! The first love was OctoPrint, and this second one is much more deeper. :)
It is like starting to race with a nice street car. With shiny multi tone metallic paint, leather seats, quality car audio, beautiful rims, all the fancy things. Then you reach the limits of that car, and build a dedicated race car. Shaving off all the fancy things, and you only keep the necessary ones, but use the best of those. This is how you find a whole new level of racing.
Klipper with Fluidd is the dedicated, purposely built race car of 3D printer world. :)
Today ive seen 3 different game-changing technologies in 3 seperate fields. This is a great day.
What are they?
@@zen_tewmbs I guess we will never know
I just started using input shaper / klipper on my ender 3 v2 and it's sweet! Manual tuning of input shaper is a lot easier than I thought it would be with great results.
You are a best source what ever i tend to do. a year ago i bought ender 3 pro, and i have set up the visual studio and compiled my custom setup and upgraded to direct drive and bltouch, while changing my driverboard to skr mini e3 with octoprint. it has been really easy to learn all of this in a year. Now I'm dreaming of updating to clipper and making voron 2.4 for larger and faster printer. The old prints abs and tpu without problems, but many prints do not fit into ender and it is still slow. But thanks to you, everything has been like playing with legos.
Damn, all these videos made me want to have a Rat Rig as soon as possible... Great work as usual from your end, you're a godsend for the community
Wow. Next generation 3D printing. Can’t wait to put this on my rig.
I think the voltage drop issue was an electrical interference issue. I had it when I wired up my accelerometer with a comparable cable loom. When I pulled the wires apart though, it started working.
I love your vids. I have an original ender 3 that I bought everything that you can get to upgrade it now I’m just having a hell of a time getting it all together correctly and then I thought I might as well throw a raspberry pi in it and try running klipper on it. I’m so new to this I kinda jumped in with both feet and got over my head. But with your videos and my so called knowledge I can get this working.
Finally! Someone who made a video about this!
There were already videos on RUclips (nero3dp for example) but at least it's nice that a bigger channel is mentioning it so that more people are aware of such a cool feature
Best analogy for resonance 8:40 Thanks!
I am running my accelerometer with 5V because of a voltage drop, works beautifully
Great Work! Im so happy that you seem to love Klipper too and i hope that your series will make it even more popular and push development. Since i got into 3D printing i was excited about pushing the speeds and quality and Klipper has some really nice tools to do so. You show that perfectly. Keep up your great work, we can all learn a lot in your Videos.
Instead using the macros to turn on and off the led you can use the switch in the fans and output section. If you add the pwm section in the [output_pin] you can also change the brightness with a slider in the same fluidd section
Could you elaborate on that? If the fan output runs on 24V hows do I run a single 2V led of that? Or does it require to install 12 leds to fill the 24V output?
@@chaicracker you can set a max pwm output. If you need to power some 12V equipment you set the max power at 0.5 so the output at 100% is 12V
@@XeonMC01 Holy moly.. thank you for blowing my mind... also thanks for the quick reply :)
@@chaicracker hope it does work for you
@@XeonMC01 I'm preparing a led to try out, do I need a resistor for that? only have one on hand and don't wanna fry it.
the chicken example really brought it all home. now i'm able to grasp the concepts.
thanks boss.
I'm glad there was value in that. Most people have just made jokes :D
Thorough and comprehensive information. Thank you for this video! 👍
I'm also super excited. A voron2.4 is on my list, and I'm super excited to move up from a customized Ender 5 to a fantastic CoreXY printer.
Thank you! Just sorta surprised you sliced with S3D, a slicer that has not been improved for more than 2 years - which in this industry is like a lifetime ago.
Also - having the accelerometer wired directly to the motherboard, and not to a Pi, helps us eventually get rid of a Pi.
My relationship with S3D is based on the fact I've been using it for so long. Objectively, if I was starting again I'd likely switch.
@@TeachingTech Oh, yeah. No worries. I hadn't used my copy for so long, I almost forgot the interface.
Just finished setting it up ready to run tests now
Love the jacket! Arguably the best driver in F1. Would have love to see how many championships he could have won.
Wow, now that is a result!
FYI - the Marlin linear advance calibration actually works pretty well for Klipper Pressure advance as well and takes a LOT less time.
This is a very nice application of accelerometers, signal processing and mechanics, very high quality video.
the good ol chook calibration technique. Masterful
Love the hoodie
Saved this video for when I move to Klipper
a total upgrade to the whole 3d printing world... very interested to see more....
You can use the marlin version of calibrating pressure advance, you just have to replace the lines for changing the pressure advance via note pad. It's way faster and easier to read IMO.
I like the reading of the Klipper tower, but I agree it is quite a slow print by comparison.
I am so glad I ordered mine 3 weeks ago...the wait time to get one of these superb printers will get much longer. What a fantastic bit if kit with such awesome hardware and software. Also thank you Michael for you impressive knowledge and videos of how to get all this cobbled together
Michael, you are OP as hell. Such a good video.
thank you so much for doing this series. i think you convinced me that, one day in the future when i have the cash, i could do this, or a similar, build. these tutorials were top notch - informative but easy to understand.
Awesome video. Cant wait to try this on reprap. Have my sensor mounted and wired just waiting for reprap 3.4. Hope they replicate that auto tuner. Impressive.
Awesome job 👌
This will be great once it comes standard on printers. I do not care about speed but love the quality you have .
This is going to big a pretty big leap for 3d printing quality.
It can be once the process has become standardized and other companies start to implement the process into their slicers
19:07 "I lowered the layer high to 1.5 mm" ?!?!?!? WUT ?! Ahahahah I see the 0.15 soon after, okay ahahah
sweet, i am going to build a Rat Rig V-core 3 500mm. Thanks Michael.
Congratulations and well done!
I really value your time and effort that you put into your videos 👍
Thanks for this Michael. I'll definitely be doing this with my voron when the parts arrive.
Your the man...great technical job
Another great video. I’m learning so much with each video you post. Thank you for sharing.
P.S. Extra points for the Senna hoodie…. Senna was a god! RIP
Upvote for your cute chicken! 🐔 😍
Thank you for your videos, they are so helpful.
All this time we've been depending on gyroscopic technology for autopilot, when all we needed was a chicken to keep our planes level! Brilliant! :D
Chicken co-pilots will soon take off.
aaaah the vid many been waiting for! :D Excellent preparation for the topic, great execution. Good stuff. Was a good watch :)
p.s.
glad to have helped, thanks for the credits :)
Thanks for once again teaching me some very useful things!
Thanx for this build series of the RatRig, it is seriously swaying me to build one. Hopefully, once the pandemic has run its course, I can invest in importing one and then building it.
Been waiting for 4th video in this series and you didn’t disappoint Michael. Thank you. Excellent content as always and you explain all the tricky stuff so well. Definitely considering a Rat Rig build thanks to this series and I’m sold on Klipper. Keep it up.
the rat rig look nice but i decided to build a voron 2.4 cant wait to get the parts to build it some of what u did in this video will apply to tuning the voron
Both options are fantastic, I have no doubt.
I will definitely go for Klipper... I can't live with the whole slicer-carves-things-into-stone compilation. I'm hoping to find a more Just-In-Time compilation paradigm in there with sensor feedback.
I'm building a BLV MGN printer and this is helping with ideas for it. Klipper is new to me but this does help ease the tension to get things going. Still thinking about a high flow hotend for the printer.
Stuck between Nova and the mosquito+ hotend. Nova is have the prices overall though. Thinking about what I want to get done is fairly fun.
Next episode my Rat Rig gets a Mosquito Magnum. As for Klipper, there are many example configs available to hopefully get you started.
@@TeachingTech Hopefully by looking at the Rat Rig config I can take what i learn from that and apply it to the BLV set up. I would have gone Rat, however, there was not a metal kit for it at this current time. That being mounts for the linear rails and hotend fixture. Waiting on parts to come in is unbearable as I want to program and test stuff for the fun of it.
Fun never the less.
Thank you for covering the concept of using the non-planar printing question, since I was one of the people who asked about it a future video on it after rewatching the original video. I'm still too lazy to build my own printer like this or the voron or hovort, so I haven't watch many build streams/videos on them.
Man, all these videos and posts about how awesome Klipper is. Y'all really gonna make me fix my Ender til I break it 😂
Wow, that combo of print speed and quality is just incredible!
I’m tentatively considering a V-Core 3 for my next/ultimate 3D printer, but the one thing missing is dual extrusion. (I know RRD has an IDEX model, but I want the CoreXY speed and accuracy.) When I asked, they told me that some community members are working on an IDEX mod, but that CoreXY makes it tricky. I hope it works out; that’s the only limitation I see to this being the “ultimate” 3D printer for me!
IDEX on CoreXY is not ideal if speed is what you're after, since you're putting a ton of extra weight on the gantry, which is already the bottleneck. The difference in speed between a CoreXYU/V (IDEX on CoreXY) and IDEX on a cartesian is probably negligible, minor at best. Another challenge with CoreXYU/V is equal belt tensioning between the extra set of belts. A toolchanger makes more sense on CoreXY in that respect, but is also harder to design.
@@miklschmidt Ah - many thanks for that insight! Maybe a RatRig V-Cast IDEX is what I should be looking at then. I dislike the whole concept of a moving Y-axis though. (Maybe I just need to save my pennies until I can afford an E3D Toolchanger. That’s a *lot* of pennies though :-/)
@@DEtchells Tbf corexy has a moving Y axis as well, but yeah when the Y axis is the bed, it makes things tricky to scale speedwise :)
Indeed, that thing is pricy. There are DIY options such as the Jubilee (one of the printers that inspired the V-Core 3) that might be worth looking into?
@@miklschmidt Yeah, it’s the idea of moving the whole mass of the bed plus the part that bugs me. Huh, I hadn’t heard of the Jubilee before, I’ll have to check it out; thanks again! (Although tbh, I’d rather print things to build other stuff than spend even more time building a 3D printer :-)
@@DEtchells Understandable, it's all about priorities. I ended up primarily using my printers to print printer parts.. 😂
Alright, you've convinced me. Time to start cranking up my printer
I love seeing all these advancements in the gun industry
I’ve been out of the 3D printing game for a while, looking to get things going again.. one of the things I always pushed was my speed and quality.. this seems to take that to a whole new level… will have to look at these ratrig’s when they become more available,
Speed and quality. How awesome 👌
Im do happy you covered this
note that input shaping is calibrated before pressure advance (using set_pressure_advance advance=0 if tuning shaping manually without accelerometer), and then with calibrated shaping you need to re-calibrate pressure advance again. for high-resonating printers pressure advance can change significantly.
The second i heard "acceloremeter" it clicked, it is just so obvious and can be used for all sorts of things... like... actual feedback from the head, so that the board actually knows if something is moving.. It should be able to run full calibration now, all parameters that are about the head movement... jerk, velocity max.. all of it. Now we need an optical sensor for the filament and i have an idea for that..
Place a rudimentary camera (sensor+lens) after the extruder. Use the indentations that the extruder motor makes to the filament to detect motion. Needs clever piece of lighting, probably a low power laser will do it.
It's exciting where this approach can take us,. Your ideas are spot on.
I’ll be implementing a laser/ ir diode combo on my printer because reliability is key, laser under nozzle could detect nozzle jams instantly, filament run out, layer width (for calibration purposes), and lifting of print off the build surface (part would block laser path)
I made a post on Reddit discussing it more in depth
Also it should work better than camera/ ai monitoring in low/ no light conditions, and as you said, low cost
Love the jacket! Senna forever!
Really Great series - I'm excited about the possibilities
19:08 *Lowered the layer height to 0.15mm
Even if the trade off was just printing at 0.15 layers in the time of 0.2-0.3layers it would be a big quality / speed improvement.
@@radicalxedward8047 That was not the point. I wanted to correct him cause he said 1.5mm instead of 0.15mm.
Hi Michael!
Thanks for another great video, as usual!
Can you please make a video about using a relay to power on and off the printer with fluid or mainsail os ?
i hope every 3d printer manufacturer company thinking about using accelometer...i think there is a big potential in this
Amazing series.
I have followed this (Getting lost in places - rewind) but can see the great results showing you get what you pay for but given the correct tools and motivation you can alway improve what you get.
I can see a lot of tweaking for the boat race coming up, the test gear reporting at the time of printing your sound system was playing...
What next? Dual axis mirroring the movement like noise canceling headphones?
I saw a mirrored setup on a forum many years ago. It was really big and complicated. In the end the designer decided it wasn't worth the effort and abandoned it.
This is a fabulous series Michael. I wait for each part with more anticipation than I ever did with GOT. Made me finally do the right thing and support your patreon. Absolutely brilliant.
Great Video, and 50 points to gryffindor for the cool Senna Jacket.
Klipper, Infinite Z, affordable desktop metal printing...
The next 3 years are gon a be wild!
Affordable is relative, they're affordable to me now.
that random chicken appearance cracked me up 😄
Manual tuning (mentioned at the beginning of input shaping section of the video)is much better option, doesn't take much time and reflects real printing conditions like desired speed,acceleration, filament being extruded, nozzle interfering with printed object etc.I tried both methods and found manual method far more superior-and is really easy to do.Also found pressure advance tuning pointless on direct extruder (just set up extrusion factor),pressure advance only make sense for bowden extruders.
Cool sweater! Iconic driver!
Just want to say that fixing ringing and ghosting artifacts by software is really great, but it would be wise to also solve this problem using a granite or heavy base and have the 3d printer bolted to it, this will dramatically improve results. To have even more better results, have all the axis rails changed with more heavy and firm accurate rails. All the minuscule ringing will be absorbed by the mass of rails and base. This is why all of the precision CNC machines that are expensive uses heavy base and rails.
I like this concept!
How far we are from a consumer grade "buy and start printing" 3D printer. Until there's a breakthrough, the 3D printer space is going to remain a tinkerer's wet dream.
your videos are top tier. Wow!
I hate you so much right now! I just bought BTT screens for my printers and now I need to resell it! Klipper is so much more! OMG I love it!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone want to buy new BTT screen? Michael, keep doing really good job!
You should make some scale models of the 1992-1994 McLaren / Williams using some of these new techniques.
You should also store your filament spools inside of a dehydrator, a la Maker's Muse, and feed directly from that dehydrator to the printer.
Some further ways to enhance your printer;
- Real-Time 3D scanning of the print to automatically adjust and recalibrate settings on the fly if the printer's comparer realizes that something isn't adding up.
- Adding some kind of vibration dampening to the entire printer assembly (especially the bed).
- Give your printer an automatic "brush teeth" function to keep the extruder clean.
- Adding features to your custom slicer, like;
---- Non-Planar Slicing
---- Load-Depensent Infill
---- Gradient Infill
---- "Elephant's Foot" Compensation
---- Variable Layer Height
Multiple likes and subscribed because of that Arton Senna hood!
Very impressive! I would really like to see what Klipper can do for a budget printer (like an Ender-3), maybe a comparison with Marlin?
The speed at which I was able to add pressure advance to my E3 V2 with Klipper compared to the messing about in Marlin was incredible. That alone has been enough for me to make the move!
Thank you, a lot of info and tricks revealed. Very interesting, now time to rebuild and upgrade! Thanks
Great video but all I retained was the chicken 🐔
That chicken has survived a few scares. Now she is immortalised!
Btw a word of warning:
When I tried this I could go from 1800 Accel to 4000 easily. Tolerances were amazing and I saw no visual changes. However my dimensions got smaller and distorted by around 0.3mm. so If you go too far you might have issues! Amazingly I could still do 0.15mm for my moving parts at 4000 and 100mm/s
That's amazing. I know what my next project is!
Thank you, I will have to test more.
Did you try messing with XY Size Compensation in PrusaSlicer? (or equivalent in whatever slicer you use)? Wondering if that would help
@@somethingelsedoesmatter it was in a way that it couldn't be fixed in the slicer. I fixed it now with the latest firmware. I can only go to 3000 now
Klipper is the way 3D printing should be.
Really cool :)