@GoldenStateOfMindSD yea people wanted gold for that shit back then. People would use 3m black caulking and carpet filler under or behind pannels worked just as well and I remember the old dynamat use to melt away when I use to do car audio 20+yrs ago
Majority of my audio setups do mid to high 140s. My g6 had 2 12" Phoenix gold sx12d4s doing 144 to 145db under 400rms. I eventually upgraded and average 148db 25hz to 41hz.
@@BudgetBassHead you were so thorough in this video. I would definitely enjoy seeing you upload an educational video regarding Sketchup... As this is my first time hearing about it. Looks like I'll be checking out Sketchup. Thanks!
Awesome job man! I was wondering if you could possibly steer me in the right direction? Do you think this could work with am 8 or 10 inch set up? Obviously won't be as loud, but could be an option for people who can't fit12,'s. Thanks
@Matt Hahn it's a great way to go at any size. I had two of the kicker 10" sub/radiator slim boxes behind the rear seat in my crew cab pickup, and they punched like MAD without broadcasting it to the whole block. That's the power of 10" setups: in the car, apocalypse. Outside: no one really notices. Having had systems jacked twice before over the years, I don't like being obvious.
I have never considered a passive radiator setup to be a sealed enclosure. I always lumped them in with ported enclosures. The real benefit of a passive radiator setup is that it allows the user of a smaller enclosure volume than what is typically feasible with a ported enclosure due to the length of the port required for a small enclosure. Fwiw, I entered the $150 challenge using a $70 Ignite r1600/1d amp and Rockville K6-12 in a stock 4runner and scored a 141db at 39hz sealed in the kick. It is amazing what can be done with modern budget gear.
@@HighVybeTribe Aperiodic and Passive Radiators were def more of a home audio thing. I don't think I've ever seen Aperiodic in Car Audio. Totally forgot about those.
I know I have heard exactly what your saying about PR’s for a long time. But I’ve built a BUNCH of ported enclosures, probably more than 30 of them in the last 40 years…. I’ve been doing this for a while 🙂 And none of my ported setups sounded as good as my 18” PR setup. My previous enclosure with two 15”s were a little louder, but not as musical. Not sure why, but it is just the fact of the matter.
@@Chris_Wolfgram enclosure design makes a difference. Without accurate tsp's proper enclosures or plots are impossible. Pr's are more friendly due to a potentially lower order rolloff, but nothing sounds better than a driver with good specs in it's optimum enclosure. TSP's are key.
Agreed. Ive played with both. And u dont have to have a ton of power in a ported enclosure if designed correctly. Port area and tuning will play a huge in how low itll play and still maintain a good bandwidth
Ive found while wi isd helps a ton with designing a proper enclosure it doesnt take cabin vplume snd resona t into account. Another words the cabin will be a main factor in the overall final response.
Bruh!! I am not a basshead anymore for , for 15 years now. I saw this in study, and ran a shallow 12 with 2 radiators behind my rear seat in my 250..im stil tuning them down but OMG!!!! I dont believe it!! The output is amazing. I ran earthquake magmas in my 20s, alternators, batteries, caps, name it.. so satisfied with this
I have a similar setup. Output was way more than expected with my 1200 watt amp. I’m using one 12” NEP advance and a 12” earthquake passive radiator. Also it is very musical and plays deep. Best sounding setup bass wise I’ve ever owned.
You said " I don't know why there isn't more people running radiators ?" My answer is one word EDUCATION.. That goes for me too. This is the first video on radiators I've ever gave the time of day . Mostly because they just cant explain the process. I really enjoyed this and learned a lot. I watch a lot of your others as well. Well done sir !
Oh yeah , one question. How is this type in tight bass ? I love the blues , classic rock.. Sometimes i just wanna 'lower the dynamite ' showin my age there..lol
I've always been told that passive radiators shouldn't exist on the same face as the active subwoofer. This was a nice post to see. Expanding my ideas for my build. Thanks.
You are correct, passives perform best on opposite sides. Best performance is obtained by placing passive backwards= loads the lower freq. better, and helps with the rear wave time alignment to reinforce the front wave. If the guy in this video had the powered sub forward, and the passive backwards it would have performed even better. Also, i talked directly to the owner of earthquake about these slaps 12 inch passives. Most people like the guy making this video think you need 2 of the same dia. passive radiators, as 1 powered subwoofer,= you dont, its just suggested to use 2x the effective piston area. These slaps have just over 100mm= just over 4 inches of peak to peak x max, so you can use 1-12inch subwoofer(as long as it has 25mm of 1 way x max, or less), with 1- 12inch slaps, also earthquake recommends using the subwoofers rec. Sealed enclosure specs with their slaps units! So in this video, if he had bought a second subwoofer, and mounted them forwards( and used the same 2cu. Ft. total for both powered 12s, and 2-12inch slaps), and had the two 12inch slaps on the backside of the box, facing his rear tailights, this would have been really loud, and still deep!
@@matthewmattson6881 Yes they do, and it sacrifices performance! They do it, because it fits. Any orientation will play/work. And will outperform the same regular sized sealed enclosure's low freq. extension, but it's not optimal.
It'll do aight on the same side of the box, it just takes more tuning to keep them in phase. A lot of builds don't get the phase right (which isn't that difficult to dial in) and it causes weird comb filtering effects. It's definitely doable, not quite as straightforward as tossing in a port and calling it a day.
@@evilinside5984 So my pop has a regular cab pick up truck. We're taking out 3 Kicker Comp c10s (his brand choice, not mine) and he wanted just 2 Kicker CVR 10". The enclosure is for three 10" subs Could I just use a single 10" Kicker CVR and get two of these passive radiators, or should it be one per sub? The enclosure is about 1.5-1.75 cu ft total Id say, all one shared chamber, so I can always just seal one sub cut-out.
I've always got better performance and output by mounting passive radiator(s) on the opposite side of the woofer(s). They move opposite the sub cone due to pressure differential and so as to not cancel soundwaves the passive radiators always seem to more greatly improve output when mounted on opposite side of subwoofer baffle
It works but not for the reasons you describe. First of all - passive radiators do not move opposite the subwoofer, until you get below the tuning frequency. The enclosure will gradually go out of phase below this, with a big cancellation notch where the passive radiator free air resonates, and also at single digit frequencies where the radiator is simply pushing out from air pressure. On a slow motion camera they are in phase or close to in phase throughout the pass band, or moving negligibly for the upper bass. Secondly, you can think of an enclosure as an expanding and contracting volume, so whether the speaker is on the back or the front, moving out or in doesn't make a difference. You have to think: Is this speaker expanding the enclosure volume or contracting it? What putting passive radiators on the back does is better balance the box. When the speaker is moving, the box is recoiling in the opposite direction, which for meaty car subwoofers can be significant compared to a lighter PA driver cone. Putting drivers on opposite sides means this vibration is cancelled (or reduced in the case of passive radiators that don't exactly imitate the driver) and less energy is used shaking the box if it's on a loose surface.
I have always loved and stand by sealed boxes. The sound, the feel, and the response of the notes hitting so hard I have not been able to replicate in a ported box.
I recently finished a budget build with eight 6.5” woofers in an infinite baffle setup and I have to agree. Kick drums are felt in my chest. Despite the small drivers, low end response is VERY useable down to 30 hz with useable output down to 25 hz!! All woofers were wired to a single 2 ohm load. With the JP8 amplifier running them, actual power output to the woofers is only around 500 watts total. The bass is VERY clean despite the less than $100 total spent on woofers and wood.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 sorry man I wasn't critiquing you, I just misread the comment. I was just stating that adding passive radiators is a ported setup. It no longer considered a sealed enclosure.
This is genius man really. I intend on following your example here for myself. I ain't gonna make no video but im dead ass serious about replicating it with the specs of my whip. I'm 5 months late but THANK YOU Sir. You've made a very impressive video here and it's 💯 correct everything you said and you didn't just prove it you even beat your original estimate. I just don't have the words... Just thank you for this knowledge. I'm putting it to use.
I am definitely going to try this in my ford ranger xtra cab.. Take a jump seat out and build a 12 into it with a passive radiator. Only makes sense after watching this video. Thanks BBH. Excellent video expalining in detail and showing the proof. More bass using wayyy less power and compromising the charging system. I love it. Im working with a TARAMPS 3000HD 1 OHM and that tiny amp is a freakin beast to say the least.
A friend of mine told me to try some PR's when I told him I wanted more bass but didn't want the weight. I did some looking and I found that they can actually add a decent amount of sound to your single sub set up. After this video, I think I'm gonna give it a go.
Technically, providing sound from the rear wave via ported enclosure is supposed to add +3db. I think a PR can do that at lower Db ranges. As the Db go up, the PR will probably struggle to keep up. But are great for a number of 140db type systems.
I'd like to see you test this setup with one of the radiators unweighted and the other with both weights attached to it. Three different tuning frequencies in one enclosure would be pretty interesting.
I've modeled this in Akabak, and it won't work like you probably think it does. It would be similar to installing ports of different areas/lengths in a box and expecting multiple tuning frequencies compared to a standard vented enclosure. It simply doesn't work that way. All you get a is a group-delay and phase-shift nightmare.
@@zod-engineering-welding Taking car resonance and other variables that come with in world testing in mind , id say it would still be an interesting test to see what kind of frequencies peaks and phase issues are present.
It would have the same effect as two different port with different port lengths, the two will be summed for an average tuning frequency.... However with PRs you can run into other problems with varying tuning frequencies between PRs. I'm all for the science though. do it and let's see what happens.
I bought the slaps-m10 because of this video and I'm so glad I did! the 20L box with the new Alpine R2 10" works perfectly. i can play 20hz even at high volume and it sounds great! no port noise! no distortion! the whole trunk of the car is almost empty :D i can't thank you enough for this video! 😍 BTW: I switched from 12" bassreflex 50L tuned to 32hz and this is louder and deeper on same power🙂
Great video. I'm a huge fan of Passive Radiators. It's important to point out that an enclosure with passive radiators is technically a bass reflex enclosure, but superior in that there is no need for a massive, space consuming port AND no port noise. This is definitely the best way to get a smaller enclosure with better low end bass extension. These are also far easier to tune by adding mass vs lengthening or shortening the port.
Wow! Ive been doing car audio since 1984 lol, and Ive heard about using passive radiators throughout, but it seemed so complicated, and seemed like the rewards were minimal. But your tutorial here is simply Mindblowing!! This will be one of my near future builds in one of my cars. Excellent video, thank you!! Subbed!!!!
@BudgetBassHead will do, will probably begin in a few months. I'm probably going to look into either a couple 8s or a 10, using the same M12 passive radiators. I'll see how it looks on computer modeling first before I start the build. Thx!!
Bro!! Thank you for making this video!! It is very inspiring to try and attempt my own build. I'm definitely considering the passive woofer now that I understand how big a difference it can make!! Thanks again
Those opening edits are a masterpiece! I was hoping you'd remove the radiators and seal the opening to make it a sealed box and then do a direct comparison of the output. I'd really like to know the dB increase just by adding the radiators.
@@JasonWW2000 I'll have to agree with @AdrenalineHigh subwoofers have different box tuning suggestions for their sealed and ported design. 2 cubic feet is far too large for most 12 inch sealed enclosure.
I went ahead and used a box building program using these passive radiators and compared it to a sealed box. So if anyone wants to know, adding the passive radiator really is like adding a port. You can get a 6-8 dB increase at the tuning frequency, but the roll off is much, much steeper.
Thank you, you saved me a lot of money, time, resources and labor costs. I just have to work the math out properly in order to pair the right passives with the right subs
@@BudgetBassHead Yea you have no idea how much it helped, was initially going for the nvx 12 inch but im deciding to save a bit more and buy one HIPPO XL 2000w 10 inch which plays louder, uses more power and has way more excursion compared to the 12 and 10 inch nvx offerings. Still though, im going to use passive radiators with it, two 10 inch slaps and run the math through the app winisd to get the box size i want for the frequency i want, i wanna tune for 30-37hz. My aim is to have a box smaller than yours since im using 10 inch subs that have slightly bigger magnets but get the same or greater spl output and frequency compared to yours, tho needing more power to do it, just less space (i think). Its going to go in the back of a 2016 ford everest with the third row seats staying up. With the sub/box facing the ceiling.
Just make sure to get a passive with @ least 2x piston area= not 2x cone area, the guy in this video only needs 1 of these slaps 12inch passives. And dont run them on the same plane=not the best performance. You can run 1 of these 12inch slaps to 1 powered 12inch sub with 25mm of 1 way x max, or less. Best performance is had with powered sub forwards, and passive backwards, and use a woofer that sounds great in a sealed enclosure, and use sub. Mfg. Sealed box cu. Ft. Rec. Specs= not the ported specs like most people think, if you dont believe me call earthquake and ask the owner/designer, i did!
I've had a few ideas for designing a ported enclosure that also had passives in it, my idea was to fire the passives into a large low tuned ported chamber while the active subwoofer was exposed to the environment
I'd try using your dats system to find you tuning of your sealed side with the passives, and I'd try tuning the port led chamber at that and see where it goes
Hey bro, I hope you’re reading this. Please take note to use the remote wire from the cigarette lighter in the storage compartment armrest. In between the front seats. As that is the only true ignition wire that you can use and that will solve your amp from turning on and off every time you open and close a door.
You are right with you don't need a trunk full of subs. Back in the early 90s a friend of mine put a system in his 79 Pontiac Bonnevile 2 door. He had two Rockford Fosgate 15 inch woofers in a homemade sealed box stuffed in the trunk for bass, two Pioneer 4 way 6x9s mounted to the rear deck set for mids and highs, and a 1,000 watt amp for power. It wasn't anything fancy but it sure had some good bass for a throw together system.
Actually a passive radiator works almost the same as a port cause they resonate at the frequency they are tuned to just like a port, the big benefit of a PR is that it basically does not use up any enclosure space like a port would do with the same tuning in the same volume
Exactly right! While physically the inside is sealed off from the outside this is not a traditional sealed enclosure as it is claimed to be. The PR changes the system to a Helmholtz double-mass double-spring oscillator aka: it works almost exactly like a ported enclosure with the only main difference in the output is there is a notch in the frequency response that corresponds to the PRs free-air Fs. People should study acoustics and electromagnetic field theory a lot more before they profess incorrect "facts".
I love PR's. At the PR tuned frequency, you get the benefits of a ported enclosure, usually low end, as the PR's resonate at the tuned frequency like a port. As you move away from the PR tuned frequency, you gain more and more of the benefits of a sealed enclosure. I have a PR tuned to around 23 Hz. Above say 60 Hz, The PR barely moves at all. The higher frequencies are tight and punchy.
Would you recommend a low tuned passive radiator in conjuction with a Kicker CVR 10"? Box is sealed. That kicker sub seems to favor the higher frequencies. I just want it louder and to play a bit lower for my pops regular cab pick up. Or would you recommend tuning it around where the sub shines more?
@@Luminous.Dynamics My suggestion is to put the sub and PR into a box calculator like WinISD. See how the sim looks to you. Iow tuned is a relative concept. low tuned in regards to the subs ability to play low, or considering the subs lower limits.
Awsome information video. The showing the 40hz moving the active driver and then lower on the radiators was kool. I had no idea thats what those did and i wunder why more arent using to get more out of thier builds. More room means more room to play in
Hey man your videos have come a long way. Watched a few prior but you've really upped ur game. You've got a new subscriber here... And yeah I would like to see more on the sketchup of different enclosures. As you requested I'm commenting here to request just that... Really like the technical aspect of your videos!
Love this build and approach. No need to give up your trunk to get sub-40Hz extension. I love deep sub bass but, am not a fan of ported enclosures. The bass they create is many times just loose and flabby. No detail. Great solution here. Those glamour shots of the NVX sub are outstanding. Very well done video. Like those two furry woofers too! Lol!
Very cool. I have always thought that proper passive radiator setups sounded great musically even though there have been many people that say to stay away from them. I never really understood the hate for them when my ears liked what I was hearing.
My thoughts exactly. I think people focus too much on trending builds than the science available. Passive Radiators are very simple and should at least be tried.
@@BudgetBassHead I think after most people experience the extension down low they can add it could bring a lot of people around to them. It's one thing to watch it on a video and another thing to hear and feel it for yourself.
Its because its in between sq and spl. Sound in the upper frequencies of bass have a slightly blurred sound sometimes as compared to sealed and although they have better output, its not as much as ported. The only problem with this is most people are bent one way or the other. I personally like p.r. s, i have had the slaps and i currently have the pump . They are great for a daily driver and have near sealed box sq.
I just watched a couple of your videos for the first time. Fantastic job. At first I thought this was a actual commercial for NVX subwoofer, your editing and close up shots were spot on. Keep up the good work! You just got a new subscriber.
The passive radiators were big time in the 80's and 90's my son is telling me to make one too show him. I keep telling him how good they are in a good box.
Passive Radiator isn't a sealed alignment, it's a bass reflex or ported alignment. The passive Radiator acts as a port and requires a subsonic filter, just as a vented enclosure does. So the passive Radiator doesn't over excurse
I love this sort of stuff. 32 years ago probably I made my first car audio setup. I had found 8x ok full range drivers from a scrap yard. I put 8 in a parcel shelf of my ford Escort MkIII In the UK. I wired it to make the same impedance 2 in parallel in series with another 2 in parallel per side. I had probably an amplified EQ . Max 100W I guess. It was huge. lol After that I built a huge box with 2x 10" Pro Plus then i put them in an Austin Mini with the 2x 10" Pro plus in 2x sealed boxes and 1x 18" in the rear shelf but modified, i cut the rear seats out! Later i put 2x 15" in the rear shelf. In the front i had 4x kenwood co-axial facing the driver and 2x Kenwood 150W tweeters on top reflecting back from the windscreen. Everything was amped up Kenwood except the 4x mids/fullrange which were running direct from the head unit. first it was a pioneer 9100 and then a 9500 flip front cassette bot with remote that had the learn function (which I still have in storage) and a small multi play all mounted in the dash behind a lockable steel panel with a fake ford radio hiding the yale lock. All hidden behind acoustic cloth. Shame i crashed the car. Oh well, it's a good story now but that car would be worth around 30,000 if i still had it now. That's the way she goes when we get a bit loose! Shit. I just destroyed my pasta. lol
I've built a sealed 3.2cubic ft 3/4" birch box for a 12" Massive Audio Summo XL AND two of these M12s. Going to run a 3k at 2ohms to the dvc 4ohm sub to it, leave it turned down at first, but super stoked the prs came today!
If you put the sub in the middle and the passive radiators on the left on the right side of the box will still be the same response or would it sound better
Kicker is known for using a passive radiator. If you see a kicker sealed enclosure with two 12s and they look like two different subwoofers, one is a sub and the other is the passive radiator
Always been a fan of sealed enclosures, 6th order being a second favorite 👍 My fav systems of the past were 4 12" gold letter kickers sealed on a zed Zeus and 4 15 gold letters on a zed colossus. Still have the amps but unfortunately not the subs 😒
@@undernature2799 yes sir. Have a couple stillwater gems also, the 500si,200si and a 100si. Back then it was roughly a dollar a watt instead of a dime but the quality shows the 90 cents difference in today's amplifiers
Passive radiator set ups are classified as ported boxes since the radiator basically has the same function as a port. The difference is how the port or radiator is tuned. In general, if you want to lower the tuning frequency of a ported box, you lengthen the port and/ or make it a smaller diameter. In a passive radiator set up, you add mass to the radiator. Both do the same thing, they change the resonant frequency of the enclosure. Ported and passive radiator setups share the same characteristics, in general you get a nice boost above the tuning frequency, and a steep roll off below it. I've modeled and tested both setups and if tuned to the same frequency, the sound and output are very similar. The main advantage of pr setups is you can tune low without having a long port, which makes it ideal for compact set ups that simply cannot accommodate a long port due to size restrictions.
Hmm nice experiment here but like i tell everyone XMAX IS KEY THE MORE 1ONE BY INCHES IN AND OUT THE DEEPER THE LOWS This is real science apply what you are doing here sir thank you. THE NATURE OF SOUND IS EPIC BY FAR.
I have a Kicker Comp R 12 in a sealed Sound Ordinance box at 1.27 cubic feet and a Kicker Comp VR 15 in a sealed BBOX at 2.06 cubic feet in a 2014 Passat. They both get extremely low with the seats folded up playing in the 20 hertz range
I would really like to see that sub centered and the radiators to the outside that way you don't have one reacting slightly faster than the other.. I would also like to see there were two of the radiators on the back side and the sub on the front side since they are moving in opposite you would get less cancellation and it would deepen up a bit and get louder because of the radiators faced at the trunk and would give a little bit of time for the waves to realign and not act outta phase as bad.. this is why when you see Bluetooth speakers and a lot of passive radiator stuff they tend to be on the back side not always but a good portion... But great job I love passive radiators and it's always fun to experiment and have new ideas.. from my experience just because it looks good on paper doesn't mean it works great in the real world so experimentation is always key...
You are correct. The best performance will be powered subwoofer forwards, and 1-12 inch slaps backwards. Passives need 2x air disp., NOT 2x cone area. His 12 inch nvx can only disp. 180 cu. in. of air, and 1-12 inch slaps can disp. 452 cu. In of air= 250% more disp., i mentioned this in more detail to this youtuber, in a prior comment, i hope he reads it? So this enclosure could be half this size, and get better results!
I just saw some slap info. It said it's recommended to mount the slap on the back or outside corner of the box. Not directly next to the powered sub. It lowers the performance
I have a pair of these 15" next subs I bought like 4 yrs ago brand new still lol I hooked 1 up and played it about 4hrs worth in a temporary setup with the next jad1200 amp and man I was impressed, however I sold that truck so all my stuff is just waiting on me to do my next build 😆 went all nvx with subs, amps, and mids. Even though its been a few years and newer stuff may be out now I'm still impressed with nvx for sure
I would really like to see the same test but with the the sub and PRs on opposite sides of the box so everything is pushing and pulling in the same direction
Omg this is the preacher who loves the lg V60. I'm watching on a v60. I don't really need this info but better to double check. I have a custom tuned box. In a single cab pickup. This is too boomy my gosh seal it. So we did. Its still going. Edit: sometimes you need a underarmour model to slide in the new subs. No way im strong enough.
I like the concept like what you're doing. The sub should be in the middle so it displaces evenly. If applicable Sub always in the middle of box radiators on the side. ✌❤😃
That's a cool setup! The only thing for me is I like things balanced, so I would've put the sub in the middle with a passive on each side, still on the same face as you have it. But the lows sound great through my headphones. Nice job!
I did a 143 at 36Hz on 499w clamped in competition with two vcw12s on a JAD1200.1. 4.2 cuft net and 6" aero port at 27Hz. Changed to an 8" aero at 35Hz and saw a 144.5. Shortened the port to 44Hz tune and did a 147 on 940w. Same setup but I had better electrical to support it.
@@BudgetBassHead I built this before I even knew about spl metering or competitions. Just enjoyed good music and the engineering behind sound and I over built it a little... Next goal is 150db on the same two 12s now that I understand how this all works. First time on the meter I did a 140 on the windshield on Spotify music, haha! Need to get a meter of my own to do more testing and squeeze everything out of this system before I change it up.
@@thelifeofriley815 Probably gonna take somewhere between 2000 to 3000 watts of clamped power to get 150DB, but u already did the hard part, with getting the enclosure more efficient, now cram the power to her! Good luck, you got this!
@@evilinside5984 thanks! I’m looking to grab a 5k since my 1200.1 is dying on me. I’m going to build a new box and make a few adjustments too. Should get there.
@@evilinside5984randomly came back to this video while searching RUclips. Does 148.6 at 2600 and 149.2 at 4400. The 1200w subs are about maxed out. Starting to buy all the equipment to do proper testing and tuning. Dats, rta, spl meter, etc.
Thank you for putting this excellent video out here. I have the same 12 inch earthquake radiator running with a 12 inch FI Q in a 1.2 CF3 sealed box for my Ram 1500. Absolutely love it. I never messed with the weights as I do like feeling those low ~20 Hz notes hit. I will play with this for a while and remove the weights to increase tunning frequency. I am also only running 1kW using an infinity kappa 1. Great video!
@@Moegneto Is your 12 inch slaps passive the m12, or the regular? Also i love fi subwoofers, i bet your q 12, with that slaps, sounds tight, accurate, and deep!? Please elaborate for me on the sq, and output.
@@evilinside5984 The model of the passive radiator is the Earthquake Slaps-M12. My enclosure is an Atrend Ram 1500 under seat dual 12 sealed with bedliner finish. The subwoofer is a 12 inch Fi Q12 with following specs. It is wired with both voice coils in series to get a 2 Ohm load for my amplifier. Q12 DUAL 1 ohm Fs: 28.4 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil Qms: 05.39 Qes: .49 Qts: .45 Mms: 211g Cms: 0.15mm/N Sd: 481cm^2 Vas: 48.3 l Spl: 85.4dB 1W/1m Bl: 10.4 N/A Xmax: 27mm Rms: 1000W Sealed box: .8-1.5 cuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz Sub OD: 12.500” Cut ID: 11.125” Mounting depth: 7.000” Displacement: 0.16cuft I had to use two 3/4 inch mdf spacer rings to be able to mount the the subwoofer in the enclosure due to mounting depth. This required me to raise my rear seats by 2 inches to account for additional height of full box assembly (used kit from FoxBox). Driving the subwoofer is the infinity kappa k1000 Monoblock Class D. I am very pleased with the sound. I will say something that may not be popular with Fi fans. The previous subwoofer I had in there was an infinity Kappa 120.1 wired down to two ohms powered by an infinity 5 channel Class D with 500Watt RMS dedicated to sub channel and I loved it! It was perfect for all around music listening and did excellent with low deep notes. The reason I changed to Fi was that I got an excellent deal on them (have two) and I assumed I could get more output. With the change of subwoofers and added amplifier, the overall output is certainly higher but I feel the Kappa 12 was a better all around sub due to the different music I listened to. The Fi excels when it comes to Hip hop and dance-like music but it’s not as good when listening to classic rock and country. The trade off has been that the Fi has much better excursion and allows the Passive radiator to shine a bit more. Now I know some will say the Fi could use a bit more airspace than the Kappa 12 and I am sure that’s true. I just don’t have the space and don’t want to buy another box (just yet, fox box makes larger volume enclosures). With the combination of sound deadening through out truck and soundstage, I am very pleased to jump in my truck daily and jam out. I can fill the cabin with high quality sound as well as roll down the windows and let my neighbors know I’m outside. My sound stage is composed of four 6x9 JBLs and a pair of 3.5 JBLs in the front all driven by 5 channel Infinity Class D amplifier. Head unit is an Android aftermarket DVD head unit with built-in DSP. Hope this helps as I am a huge car audio fan and love to watch and read about what others are doing out there. What project do you have going on?
Man I wish I had this info in the 90’s instead of just spending my minimum wage pay on the biggest amps and subs the car could handle! This is awesome
Thats for damn sure
Lol the 90's had some amazing systems but literally no-one sound dampened their rides and everything always sounding like it was falling apart.😂😂😂
@@edubbdizzle8096 Cause dynamat was crazy expensive.
@GoldenStateOfMindSD yea people wanted gold for that shit back then. People would use 3m black caulking and carpet filler under or behind pannels worked just as well and I remember the old dynamat use to melt away when I use to do car audio 20+yrs ago
@@robwithrbkwas!?! It still is.
Straight up old school! Awesome job man! That’s exactly what we did back in the 90’s. This is one of the best subwoofer videos I have seen in a spell!
Glad you enjoyed it. Its inspired by the 90's builds. You are the first on to actually catch that. 💯
I'm now working on a build very similar to this one. I want to thank you. I had forgotten about how good passive radiators really are.
I gotta question about my new build. How many passive radiators should I use with one 12 inch active subwoofer in my trunk?
I was wondering would 2 10 inch passive radiators be ok?
Majority of my audio setups do mid to high 140s. My g6 had 2 12" Phoenix gold sx12d4s doing 144 to 145db under 400rms. I eventually upgraded and average 148db 25hz to 41hz.
This was a learning experience for me. Was always told to stay away from passive subs and just brute force it. That is a killer budget setup.
Thanks for checking it out. I really wish you guys could hear it in person. It really surprises me every time.
@@BudgetBassHead you were so thorough in this video. I would definitely enjoy seeing you upload an educational video regarding Sketchup... As this is my first time hearing about it. Looks like I'll be checking out Sketchup. Thanks!
Awesome job man! I was wondering if you could possibly steer me in the right direction? Do you think this could work with am 8 or 10 inch set up? Obviously won't be as loud, but could be an option for people who can't fit12,'s. Thanks
Same here. I always thought it defeated the purpose by absorbing energy sapping the system
@Matt Hahn it's a great way to go at any size. I had two of the kicker 10" sub/radiator slim boxes behind the rear seat in my crew cab pickup, and they punched like MAD without broadcasting it to the whole block. That's the power of 10" setups: in the car, apocalypse. Outside: no one really notices. Having had systems jacked twice before over the years, I don't like being obvious.
I have never considered a passive radiator setup to be a sealed enclosure. I always lumped them in with ported enclosures. The real benefit of a passive radiator setup is that it allows the user of a smaller enclosure volume than what is typically feasible with a ported enclosure due to the length of the port required for a small enclosure.
Fwiw, I entered the $150 challenge using a $70 Ignite r1600/1d amp and Rockville K6-12 in a stock 4runner and scored a 141db at 39hz sealed in the kick. It is amazing what can be done with modern budget gear.
A passive radiators setup is not a sealed enclosure. It's comparable to a bass reflex / ported enclosure .
Who remembers the aperiodic membrane enclosures ???
@@PhatkatCollections agreed . I think it was just a general reference that the actual Box is technically sealed , And not venturedAnd not vented .
@@HighVybeTribe Aperiodic and Passive Radiators were def more of a home audio thing. I don't think I've ever seen Aperiodic in Car Audio. Totally forgot about those.
@@robwithrbk Aperiodic's have def. Ben used in sq car audio builds. I seen them @ world finals.
The ebp of the sub will determine it's low end roll off in a sealed enclosure, and adding radiators is the same as porting.
I know I have heard exactly what your saying about PR’s for a long time. But I’ve built a BUNCH of ported enclosures, probably more than 30 of them in the last 40 years…. I’ve been doing this for a while 🙂 And none of my ported setups sounded as good as my 18” PR setup. My previous enclosure with two 15”s were a little louder, but not as musical. Not sure why, but it is just the fact of the matter.
@@Chris_Wolfgram enclosure design makes a difference. Without accurate tsp's proper enclosures or plots are impossible. Pr's are more friendly due to a potentially lower order rolloff, but nothing sounds better than a driver with good specs in it's optimum enclosure. TSP's are key.
Agreed. Ive played with both. And u dont have to have a ton of power in a ported enclosure if designed correctly. Port area and tuning will play a huge in how low itll play and still maintain a good bandwidth
Ive found while wi isd helps a ton with designing a proper enclosure it doesnt take cabin vplume snd resona t into account. Another words the cabin will be a main factor in the overall final response.
@@dabosssr24 It's not hard to factor that in once the cabin is mapped with an rta.
Bruh!! I am not a basshead anymore for , for 15 years now.
I saw this in study, and ran a shallow 12 with 2 radiators behind my rear seat in my 250..im stil tuning them down but OMG!!!! I dont believe it!! The output is amazing.
I ran earthquake magmas in my 20s, alternators, batteries, caps, name it.. so satisfied with this
I have a similar setup. Output was way more than expected with my 1200 watt amp. I’m using one 12” NEP advance and a 12” earthquake passive radiator. Also it is very musical and plays deep. Best sounding setup bass wise I’ve ever owned.
I’ve had the same experience 🙂👍
I need a passive radiator for my two 10” Infinity
Thank you for doing an in depth review on the slaps and how the weights affect it.
Glad that I can be up some assistance. 👍
You said " I don't know why there isn't more people running radiators ?" My answer is one word EDUCATION.. That goes for me too. This is the first video on radiators I've ever gave the time of day . Mostly because they just cant explain the process. I really enjoyed this and learned a lot. I watch a lot of your others as well. Well done sir !
Oh yeah , one question. How is this type in tight bass ? I love the blues , classic rock.. Sometimes i just wanna 'lower the dynamite ' showin my age there..lol
Without the weights, they are very 'punchy'. BTW... I grew up on DJ Magic Mike as well. 💯
@@BudgetBassHead Nemesis etc..lol ahhh the good old days..
I have a slaps12 runed around 32hz with one 12 dvc sub running on 460 rms, love it.
First time viewer, All I can say is wow that is cool!!
Welcome to the channel.
I've always been told that passive radiators shouldn't exist on the same face as the active subwoofer. This was a nice post to see. Expanding my ideas for my build. Thanks.
Kicker does it right out of the box with their comp RT line
You are correct, passives perform best on opposite sides. Best performance is obtained by placing passive backwards= loads the lower freq. better, and helps with the rear wave time alignment to reinforce the front wave. If the guy in this video had the powered sub forward, and the passive backwards it would have performed even better. Also, i talked directly to the owner of earthquake about these slaps 12 inch passives. Most people like the guy making this video think you need 2 of the same dia. passive radiators, as 1 powered subwoofer,= you dont, its just suggested to use 2x the effective piston area. These slaps have just over 100mm= just over 4 inches of peak to peak x max, so you can use 1-12inch subwoofer(as long as it has 25mm of 1 way x max, or less), with 1- 12inch slaps, also earthquake recommends using the subwoofers rec. Sealed enclosure specs with their slaps units! So in this video, if he had bought a second subwoofer, and mounted them forwards( and used the same 2cu. Ft. total for both powered 12s, and 2-12inch slaps), and had the two 12inch slaps on the backside of the box, facing his rear tailights, this would have been really loud, and still deep!
@@matthewmattson6881 Yes they do, and it sacrifices performance! They do it, because it fits. Any orientation will play/work. And will outperform the same regular sized sealed enclosure's low freq. extension, but it's not optimal.
It'll do aight on the same side of the box, it just takes more tuning to keep them in phase. A lot of builds don't get the phase right (which isn't that difficult to dial in) and it causes weird comb filtering effects. It's definitely doable, not quite as straightforward as tossing in a port and calling it a day.
@@evilinside5984
So my pop has a regular cab pick up truck. We're taking out 3 Kicker Comp c10s (his brand choice, not mine) and he wanted just 2 Kicker CVR 10". The enclosure is for three 10" subs
Could I just use a single 10" Kicker CVR and get two of these passive radiators, or should it be one per sub? The enclosure is about 1.5-1.75 cu ft total Id say, all one shared chamber, so I can always just seal one sub cut-out.
I've always got better performance and output by mounting passive radiator(s) on the opposite side of the woofer(s). They move opposite the sub cone due to pressure differential and so as to not cancel soundwaves the passive radiators always seem to more greatly improve output when mounted on opposite side of subwoofer baffle
Word!
It works but not for the reasons you describe. First of all - passive radiators do not move opposite the subwoofer, until you get below the tuning frequency. The enclosure will gradually go out of phase below this, with a big cancellation notch where the passive radiator free air resonates, and also at single digit frequencies where the radiator is simply pushing out from air pressure. On a slow motion camera they are in phase or close to in phase throughout the pass band, or moving negligibly for the upper bass. Secondly, you can think of an enclosure as an expanding and contracting volume, so whether the speaker is on the back or the front, moving out or in doesn't make a difference. You have to think: Is this speaker expanding the enclosure volume or contracting it?
What putting passive radiators on the back does is better balance the box. When the speaker is moving, the box is recoiling in the opposite direction, which for meaty car subwoofers can be significant compared to a lighter PA driver cone. Putting drivers on opposite sides means this vibration is cancelled (or reduced in the case of passive radiators that don't exactly imitate the driver) and less energy is used shaking the box if it's on a loose surface.
I have always loved and stand by sealed boxes. The sound, the feel, and the response of the notes hitting so hard I have not been able to replicate in a ported box.
Infinite baffle is the only way to go
I recently finished a budget build with eight 6.5” woofers in an infinite baffle setup and I have to agree. Kick drums are felt in my chest. Despite the small drivers, low end response is VERY useable down to 30 hz with useable output down to 25 hz!! All woofers were wired to a single 2 ohm load. With the JP8 amplifier running them, actual power output to the woofers is only around 500 watts total. The bass is VERY clean despite the less than $100 total spent on woofers and wood.
This is not a sealed box when you have passive radiators
@@PhatkatCollections indeed. I still stand by my preference
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 sorry man I wasn't critiquing you, I just misread the comment. I was just stating that adding passive radiators is a ported setup. It no longer considered a sealed enclosure.
I'm trying to figure out how you got Steve Harvey to narrate your video in first person. 😂😂
Put driver in the middle for even loading.
This man have change the way i look at systems forever! Great vid!!
This is genius man really. I intend on following your example here for myself. I ain't gonna make no video but im dead ass serious about replicating it with the specs of my whip. I'm 5 months late but THANK YOU Sir. You've made a very impressive video here and it's 💯 correct everything you said and you didn't just prove it you even beat your original estimate. I just don't have the words... Just thank you for this knowledge. I'm putting it to use.
I once took the passive radiator off a blown infinity basslink 10" and added it to a sealed underseat truck enclosure, made a huge difference.
Yep. More displacement
I am definitely going to try this in my ford ranger xtra cab.. Take a jump seat out and build a 12 into it with a passive radiator. Only makes sense after watching this video. Thanks BBH. Excellent video expalining in detail and showing the proof. More bass using wayyy less power and compromising the charging system. I love it. Im working with a TARAMPS 3000HD 1 OHM and that tiny amp is a freakin beast to say the least.
Cool idea
A friend of mine told me to try some PR's when I told him I wanted more bass but didn't want the weight. I did some looking and I found that they can actually add a decent amount of sound to your single sub set up. After this video, I think I'm gonna give it a go.
Technically, providing sound from the rear wave via ported enclosure is supposed to add +3db. I think a PR can do that at lower Db ranges. As the Db go up, the PR will probably struggle to keep up. But are great for a number of 140db type systems.
I'd like to see you test this setup with one of the radiators unweighted and the other with both weights attached to it. Three different tuning frequencies in one enclosure would be pretty interesting.
Stop giving away my next video, bro! 😄 I guess great minds DO think alike.
That's going to start to cause some cancellation because of the change in phase...
I've modeled this in Akabak, and it won't work like you probably think it does. It would be similar to installing ports of different areas/lengths in a box and expecting multiple tuning frequencies compared to a standard vented enclosure. It simply doesn't work that way. All you get a is a group-delay and phase-shift nightmare.
@@zod-engineering-welding Taking car resonance and other variables that come with in world testing in mind , id say it would still be an interesting test to see what kind of frequencies peaks and phase issues are present.
It would have the same effect as two different port with different port lengths, the two will be summed for an average tuning frequency.... However with PRs you can run into other problems with varying tuning frequencies between PRs. I'm all for the science though. do it and let's see what happens.
This is awesome!! Great work!
Wow!!! You just inspired me to change my entire build!! Great job!!
Great video. My first box I ever built in the 80s had two pioneer 10s with two 10 inch passive radiators. The flat style passive radiators.
I bought the slaps-m10 because of this video and I'm so glad I did! the 20L box with the new Alpine R2 10" works perfectly. i can play 20hz even at high volume and it sounds great! no port noise! no distortion! the whole trunk of the car is almost empty :D i can't thank you enough for this video! 😍
BTW: I switched from 12" bassreflex 50L tuned to 32hz and this is louder and deeper on same power🙂
Love it 💯 glad I was able to help!
I like this box! Best of both worlds, sealed and ported!!!
With zero port noise/chuffing!
That was freaking epic. Passive radiators are a hard sell but you did them justice.
Great video. I'm a huge fan of Passive Radiators. It's important to point out that an enclosure with passive radiators is technically a bass reflex enclosure, but superior in that there is no need for a massive, space consuming port AND no port noise. This is definitely the best way to get a smaller enclosure with better low end bass extension. These are also far easier to tune by adding mass vs lengthening or shortening the port.
Thanks for the info!
this guy does an excellnt job describing the whole design process... Accurate and informative!
Thanks for watching!
Wow! Ive been doing car audio since 1984 lol, and Ive heard about using passive radiators throughout, but it seemed so complicated, and seemed like the rewards were minimal. But your tutorial here is simply Mindblowing!! This will be one of my near future builds in one of my cars. Excellent video, thank you!! Subbed!!!!
Keep us posted on the build!
@BudgetBassHead will do, will probably begin in a few months.
I'm probably going to look into either a couple 8s or a 10, using the same M12 passive radiators. I'll see how it looks on computer modeling first before I start the build. Thx!!
nice demo very informative and clear explanations.
Tutorial of sketch up please! Great video always been interested in passive radiators but never tried one
Bro!! Thank you for making this video!! It is very inspiring to try and attempt my own build. I'm definitely considering the passive woofer now that I understand how big a difference it can make!! Thanks again
Those opening edits are a masterpiece! I was hoping you'd remove the radiators and seal the opening to make it a sealed box and then do a direct comparison of the output. I'd really like to know the dB increase just by adding the radiators.
The volume of the enclosure would be out of the range the sub is designed for. It won’t be a test worth the effort
@@adrenalinehigh2070 How is 2 cu ft out of range for a 12"? That is actually extremely common. So I disagree about it not being worth the effort.
@@JasonWW2000 I'll have to agree with @AdrenalineHigh subwoofers have different box tuning suggestions for their sealed and ported design. 2 cubic feet is far too large for most 12 inch sealed enclosure.
I went ahead and used a box building program using these passive radiators and compared it to a sealed box. So if anyone wants to know, adding the passive radiator really is like adding a port. You can get a 6-8 dB increase at the tuning frequency, but the roll off is much, much steeper.
@@JasonWW2000 steeper compared to ported or sealed
Despite enclosure, one of the absolute best and overlooked subs available. VCW.
Thank you, you saved me a lot of money, time, resources and labor costs. I just have to work the math out properly in order to pair the right passives with the right subs
Glad it helped!
@@BudgetBassHead Yea you have no idea how much it helped, was initially going for the nvx 12 inch but im deciding to save a bit more and buy one HIPPO XL 2000w 10 inch which plays louder, uses more power and has way more excursion compared to the 12 and 10 inch nvx offerings.
Still though, im going to use passive radiators with it, two 10 inch slaps and run the math through the app winisd to get the box size i want for the frequency i want, i wanna tune for 30-37hz. My aim is to have a box smaller than yours since im using 10 inch subs that have slightly bigger magnets but get the same or greater spl output and frequency compared to yours, tho needing more power to do it, just less space (i think).
Its going to go in the back of a 2016 ford everest with the third row seats staying up. With the sub/box facing the ceiling.
Just make sure to get a passive with @ least 2x piston area= not 2x cone area, the guy in this video only needs 1 of these slaps 12inch passives. And dont run them on the same plane=not the best performance. You can run 1 of these 12inch slaps to 1 powered 12inch sub with 25mm of 1 way x max, or less. Best performance is had with powered sub forwards, and passive backwards, and use a woofer that sounds great in a sealed enclosure, and use sub. Mfg. Sealed box cu. Ft. Rec. Specs= not the ported specs like most people think, if you dont believe me call earthquake and ask the owner/designer, i did!
I've had a few ideas for designing a ported enclosure that also had passives in it, my idea was to fire the passives into a large low tuned ported chamber while the active subwoofer was exposed to the environment
I'd try using your dats system to find you tuning of your sealed side with the passives, and I'd try tuning the port led chamber at that and see where it goes
Sound like an Isobaric setup
Series tuned 8th?
Hey bro, I hope you’re reading this. Please take note to use the remote wire from the cigarette lighter in the storage compartment armrest. In between the front seats. As that is the only true ignition wire that you can use and that will solve your amp from turning on and off every time you open and close a door.
You are right with you don't need a trunk full of subs. Back in the early 90s a friend of mine put a system in his 79 Pontiac Bonnevile 2 door. He had two Rockford Fosgate 15 inch woofers in a homemade sealed box stuffed in the trunk for bass, two Pioneer 4 way 6x9s mounted to the rear deck set for mids and highs, and a 1,000 watt amp for power. It wasn't anything fancy but it sure had some good bass for a throw together system.
this guy and vids are a masterclass
This is an awesome budget build! And quality, NVX is good stuff 👍 Get your trunk back!👍
That's the plan!
Actually a passive radiator works almost the same as a port cause they resonate at the frequency they are tuned to just like a port, the big benefit of a PR is that it basically does not use up any enclosure space like a port would do with the same tuning in the same volume
Exactly right! While physically the inside is sealed off from the outside this is not a traditional sealed enclosure as it is claimed to be. The PR changes the system to a Helmholtz double-mass double-spring oscillator aka: it works almost exactly like a ported enclosure with the only main difference in the output is there is a notch in the frequency response that corresponds to the PRs free-air Fs. People should study acoustics and electromagnetic field theory a lot more before they profess incorrect "facts".
I love PR's. At the PR tuned frequency, you get the benefits of a ported enclosure, usually low end, as the PR's resonate at the tuned frequency like a port. As you move away from the PR tuned frequency, you gain more and more of the benefits of a sealed enclosure. I have a PR tuned to around 23 Hz. Above say 60 Hz, The PR barely moves at all. The higher frequencies are tight and punchy.
Would you recommend a low tuned passive radiator in conjuction with a Kicker CVR 10"? Box is sealed. That kicker sub seems to favor the higher frequencies. I just want it louder and to play a bit lower for my pops regular cab pick up. Or would you recommend tuning it around where the sub shines more?
@@Luminous.Dynamics My suggestion is to put the sub and PR into a box calculator like WinISD. See how the sim looks to you.
Iow tuned is a relative concept. low tuned in regards to the subs ability to play low, or considering the subs lower limits.
Awsome information video. The showing the 40hz moving the active driver and then lower on the radiators was kool. I had no idea thats what those did and i wunder why more arent using to get more out of thier builds. More room means more room to play in
Hey man your videos have come a long way. Watched a few prior but you've really upped ur game. You've got a new subscriber here...
And yeah I would like to see more on the sketchup of different enclosures. As you requested I'm commenting here to request just that... Really like the technical aspect of your videos!
Thanks for hanging in there with me.
Keep it up . Never really thought about passive radiators.
Love this build and
approach. No need to give up your trunk to get sub-40Hz extension. I love deep sub bass but, am not a fan of ported enclosures. The bass they create is many times just loose and flabby. No detail. Great solution here.
Those glamour shots of the NVX sub are outstanding. Very well done video.
Like those two furry woofers too! Lol!
Very cool. I have always thought that proper passive radiator setups sounded great musically even though there have been many people that say to stay away from them. I never really understood the hate for them when my ears liked what I was hearing.
My thoughts exactly. I think people focus too much on trending builds than the science available. Passive Radiators are very simple and should at least be tried.
@@BudgetBassHead I think after most people experience the extension down low they can add it could bring a lot of people around to them. It's one thing to watch it on a video and another thing to hear and feel it for yourself.
Its because its in between sq and spl. Sound in the upper frequencies of bass have a slightly blurred sound sometimes as compared to sealed and although they have better output, its not as much as ported. The only problem with this is most people are bent one way or the other. I personally like p.r. s, i have had the slaps and i currently have the pump . They are great for a daily driver and have near sealed box sq.
Another fantastic & highly educational video! Awesome work!
I just watched a couple of your videos for the first time. Fantastic job. At first I thought this was a actual commercial for NVX subwoofer, your editing and close up shots were spot on. Keep up the good work! You just got a new subscriber.
Welcome aboard!
The passive radiators were big time in the 80's and 90's my son is telling me to make one too show him. I keep telling him how good they are in a good box.
Amazing results! great video Amigo.
I have a hot rod regular cab Silverado for my daily driver. It has very limited space so this video has me thinking about a potential setup.
Thank you for this demo, I believe I am going to copy it in both of my vehicles.
Passive Radiator isn't a sealed alignment, it's a bass reflex or ported alignment. The passive Radiator acts as a port and requires a subsonic filter, just as a vented enclosure does. So the passive Radiator doesn't over excurse
So good and so informative! I watched the video twice now.
Love it!! Thabk you
Sealed for the win
I love this sort of stuff. 32 years ago probably I made my first car audio setup. I had found 8x ok full range drivers from a scrap yard. I put 8 in a parcel shelf of my ford Escort MkIII In the UK. I wired it to make the same impedance 2 in parallel in series with another 2 in parallel per side. I had probably an amplified EQ . Max 100W I guess. It was huge. lol After that I built a huge box with 2x 10" Pro Plus then i put them in an Austin Mini with the 2x 10" Pro plus in 2x sealed boxes and 1x 18" in the rear shelf but modified, i cut the rear seats out! Later i put 2x 15" in the rear shelf. In the front i had 4x kenwood co-axial facing the driver and 2x Kenwood 150W tweeters on top reflecting back from the windscreen.
Everything was amped up Kenwood except the 4x mids/fullrange which were running direct from the head unit. first it was a pioneer 9100 and then a 9500 flip front cassette bot with remote that had the learn function (which I still have in storage) and a small multi play all mounted in the dash behind a lockable steel panel with a fake ford radio hiding the yale lock. All hidden behind acoustic cloth.
Shame i crashed the car. Oh well, it's a good story now but that car would be worth around 30,000 if i still had it now. That's the way she goes when we get a bit loose!
Shit. I just destroyed my pasta. lol
It sounds like you had a lot of fun with those builds! 😁 Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the awesome video man. Incredible information. I'm going to twerk my system because I'm just not satisfied and I think this is an easy fix.
I've built a sealed 3.2cubic ft 3/4" birch box for a 12" Massive Audio Summo XL AND two of these M12s. Going to run a 3k at 2ohms to the dvc 4ohm sub to it, leave it turned down at first, but super stoked the prs came today!
I would really like to see a vid of sketchup "How-To" when you get the time. I really enjoy your 3d renders or trunk volume, box volume, etc.
Very nice! Good to see more high efficiency builds/projects coming together.
@@DTW-bx2vy yeeeeaaaa, you can sit back down now.
Most PA speakers have a sensitivity rating in the mid 90s. That's considered efficient in car audio.
If you put the sub in the middle and the passive radiators on the left on the right side of the box will still be the same response or would it sound better
It would be awesome if you could test it with two subwoofers and the passive radiator in the center and see what difference it makes.
Great point!
Kicker is known for using a passive radiator. If you see a kicker sealed enclosure with two 12s and they look like two different subwoofers, one is a sub and the other is the passive radiator
Always been a fan of sealed enclosures, 6th order being a second favorite 👍
My fav systems of the past were 4 12" gold letter kickers sealed on a zed Zeus and 4 15 gold letters on a zed colossus. Still have the amps but unfortunately not the subs 😒
Zed audio 💯 👍
Gold letter kickers omg $80/12 250w and sounded phenomenal in a sealed box
I'm moving through different designs. I like horns right now. Sealed is great too, can't be beat for simplicity
@@undernature2799 yes sir.
Have a couple stillwater gems also, the 500si,200si and a 100si.
Back then it was roughly a dollar a watt instead of a dime but the quality shows the 90 cents difference in today's amplifiers
Passive radiator set ups are classified as ported boxes since the radiator basically has the same function as a port. The difference is how the port or radiator is tuned. In general, if you want to lower the tuning frequency of a ported box, you lengthen the port and/ or make it a smaller diameter. In a passive radiator set up, you add mass to the radiator. Both do the same thing, they change the resonant frequency of the enclosure. Ported and passive radiator setups share the same characteristics, in general you get a nice boost above the tuning frequency, and a steep roll off below it. I've modeled and tested both setups and if tuned to the same frequency, the sound and output are very similar. The main advantage of pr setups is you can tune low without having a long port, which makes it ideal for compact set ups that simply cannot accommodate a long port due to size restrictions.
Hmm nice experiment here but like i tell everyone XMAX IS KEY THE MORE 1ONE BY INCHES IN AND OUT THE DEEPER THE LOWS This is real science apply what you are doing here sir thank you. THE NATURE OF SOUND IS EPIC BY FAR.
Great point!
I have a Kicker Comp R 12 in a sealed Sound Ordinance box at 1.27 cubic feet and a Kicker Comp VR 15 in a sealed BBOX at 2.06 cubic feet in a 2014 Passat. They both get extremely low with the seats folded up playing in the 20 hertz range
its all in the box design for sure
Passive rad setup, sealed and IB always sound so good!
Couldn't agree more!
This video was amazing!!! I loved every bit of it. It gave me a lot of Insight…Thank you 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Right...got my basement booming!!
This video was incredible my man!
I would really like to see that sub centered and the radiators to the outside that way you don't have one reacting slightly faster than the other.. I would also like to see there were two of the radiators on the back side and the sub on the front side since they are moving in opposite you would get less cancellation and it would deepen up a bit and get louder because of the radiators faced at the trunk and would give a little bit of time for the waves to realign and not act outta phase as bad.. this is why when you see Bluetooth speakers and a lot of passive radiator stuff they tend to be on the back side not always but a good portion... But great job I love passive radiators and it's always fun to experiment and have new ideas.. from my experience just because it looks good on paper doesn't mean it works great in the real world so experimentation is always key...
Seems like slightly out of phase would make it louder, but what do I know.
@@speedymopars it will cause some cancellation in turn a slight loss...
You are correct. The best performance will be powered subwoofer forwards, and 1-12 inch slaps backwards. Passives need 2x air disp., NOT 2x cone area. His 12 inch nvx can only disp. 180 cu. in. of air, and 1-12 inch slaps can disp. 452 cu. In of air= 250% more disp., i mentioned this in more detail to this youtuber, in a prior comment, i hope he reads it? So this enclosure could be half this size, and get better results!
Great detailed video, lots of good information that people in car audio should understand 👍🏻
I just saw some slap info. It said it's recommended to mount the slap on the back or outside corner of the box. Not directly next to the powered sub. It lowers the performance
I have two NVX 12s on 3k and it beats tf down I highly recommend for entry level setups
Loved this video! I definitely want to see a thorough 'Sketchup' video! Thanks for all your hard work, appreciated!
SketchUp demo yes please! You’re a master!
I definitely learned something new from this video thanks
That is very impressive!
I had three 10” punch dvc’s on a punch 500a2 at a 2.6 ohm load and it rocked
Wow that sounds amazing.. very clean and deep. I used too experiment with PRs in home theater systems way back when..
Glad you liked it!
This is how you do it brother 🔥
I have a pair of these 15" next subs I bought like 4 yrs ago brand new still lol I hooked 1 up and played it about 4hrs worth in a temporary setup with the next jad1200 amp and man I was impressed, however I sold that truck so all my stuff is just waiting on me to do my next build 😆 went all nvx with subs, amps, and mids. Even though its been a few years and newer stuff may be out now I'm still impressed with nvx for sure
Even the medium level subs are nice for the average person but the vcw series is pretty damn amazing for the price
I would really like to see the same test but with the the sub and PRs on opposite sides of the box so everything is pushing and pulling in the same direction
That is quality sound in passive radiator 🎉
i ran 2 cerwin vega vmax 15 in a sealed box 112liters and did 140.7db at 37hz on 900w. sounded awesome
Awesome. Wish I could've heard that.
@@BudgetBassHead it was a nice little budget system.
Omg this is the preacher who loves the lg V60. I'm watching on a v60. I don't really need this info but better to double check. I have a custom tuned box. In a single cab pickup. This is too boomy my gosh seal it. So we did. Its still going.
Edit: sometimes you need a underarmour model to slide in the new subs. No way im strong enough.
Is there a reason you put both radiators on one side as opposed to putting the woofer in the middle?
I like the concept like what you're doing. The sub should be in the middle so it displaces evenly. If applicable Sub always in the middle of box radiators on the side. ✌❤😃
That's a cool setup! The only thing for me is I like things balanced, so I would've put the sub in the middle with a passive on each side, still on the same face as you have it. But the lows sound great through my headphones. Nice job!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for the feedback!
Nice never knew about them thanks
love it. great video. great great video
I'm not too crazy about bass but I do like to turn it up every now and again. I would love to see this done with a 6" sub with passive radiators
Hes looking for low end tough with 6s.
Should have done a before an after the PR to see how much it affects the bass I never really looked into them too much cool build
Now time for a video with that same sub ported . I'm very interested
I got one coming soon. Dual setup.
I did a 143 at 36Hz on 499w clamped in competition with two vcw12s on a JAD1200.1. 4.2 cuft net and 6" aero port at 27Hz. Changed to an 8" aero at 35Hz and saw a 144.5. Shortened the port to 44Hz tune and did a 147 on 940w. Same setup but I had better electrical to support it.
Wow. Sounds like you really put some thought into that one!
@@BudgetBassHead I built this before I even knew about spl metering or competitions. Just enjoyed good music and the engineering behind sound and I over built it a little... Next goal is 150db on the same two 12s now that I understand how this all works. First time on the meter I did a 140 on the windshield on Spotify music, haha! Need to get a meter of my own to do more testing and squeeze everything out of this system before I change it up.
@@thelifeofriley815 Probably gonna take somewhere between 2000 to 3000 watts of clamped power to get 150DB, but u already did the hard part, with getting the enclosure more efficient, now cram the power to her! Good luck, you got this!
@@evilinside5984 thanks! I’m looking to grab a 5k since my 1200.1 is dying on me. I’m going to build a new box and make a few adjustments too. Should get there.
@@evilinside5984randomly came back to this video while searching RUclips. Does 148.6 at 2600 and 149.2 at 4400. The 1200w subs are about maxed out. Starting to buy all the equipment to do proper testing and tuning. Dats, rta, spl meter, etc.
Thank you for putting this excellent video out here. I have the same 12 inch earthquake radiator running with a 12 inch FI Q in a 1.2 CF3 sealed box for my Ram 1500. Absolutely love it. I never messed with the weights as I do like feeling those low ~20 Hz notes hit. I will play with this for a while and remove the weights to increase tunning frequency. I am also only running 1kW using an infinity kappa 1. Great video!
Glad you found it inspiring. I plan to do a follow up video.
By earthquakes slaps passive calculator, in 1.2cu.ft., or 33liters, and using 1-12 inch slaps tunes you to around 27Hz!
So without taking any weight off (255 grams), I’m actually closer to 18 Hz.
@@Moegneto Is your 12 inch slaps passive the m12, or the regular? Also i love fi subwoofers, i bet your q 12, with that slaps, sounds tight, accurate, and deep!? Please elaborate for me on the sq, and output.
@@evilinside5984 The model of the passive radiator is the Earthquake Slaps-M12. My enclosure is an Atrend Ram 1500 under seat dual 12 sealed with bedliner finish. The subwoofer is a 12 inch Fi Q12 with following specs. It is wired with both voice coils in series to get a 2 Ohm load for my amplifier. Q12
DUAL 1 ohm
Fs: 28.4 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil
Qms: 05.39
Qes: .49
Qts: .45
Mms: 211g
Cms: 0.15mm/N
Sd: 481cm^2
Vas: 48.3 l
Spl: 85.4dB 1W/1m
Bl: 10.4 N/A
Xmax: 27mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: .8-1.5 cuft
Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 12.500”
Cut ID: 11.125”
Mounting depth: 7.000”
Displacement: 0.16cuft
I had to use two 3/4 inch mdf spacer rings to be able to mount the the subwoofer in the enclosure due to mounting depth. This required me to raise my rear seats by 2 inches to account for additional height of full box assembly (used kit from FoxBox). Driving the subwoofer is the infinity kappa k1000 Monoblock Class D. I am very pleased with the sound. I will say something that may not be popular with Fi fans. The previous subwoofer I had in there was an infinity Kappa 120.1 wired down to two ohms powered by an infinity 5 channel Class D with 500Watt RMS dedicated to sub channel and I loved it! It was perfect for all around music listening and did excellent with low deep notes. The reason I changed to Fi was that I got an excellent deal on them (have two) and I assumed I could get more output. With the change of subwoofers and added amplifier, the overall output is certainly higher but I feel the Kappa 12 was a better all around sub due to the different music I listened to. The Fi excels when it comes to Hip hop and dance-like music but it’s not as good when listening to classic rock and country. The trade off has been that the Fi has much better excursion and allows the Passive radiator to shine a bit more. Now I know some will say the Fi could use a bit more airspace than the Kappa 12 and I am sure that’s true. I just don’t have the space and don’t want to buy another box (just yet, fox box makes larger volume enclosures). With the combination of sound deadening through out truck and soundstage, I am very pleased to jump in my truck daily and jam out. I can fill the cabin with high quality sound as well as roll down the windows and let my neighbors know I’m outside. My sound stage is composed of four 6x9 JBLs and a pair of 3.5 JBLs in the front all driven by 5 channel Infinity Class D amplifier. Head unit is an Android aftermarket DVD head unit with built-in DSP. Hope this helps as I am a huge car audio fan and love to watch and read about what others are doing out there. What project do you have going on?