When I tuned my 15 inch PR I did the putty test. Then when I had that weight I took some 6 gauge solid copper 'GROUND' wire and cut two pieces, bent to circles and soldered them into 1 ring then epoxied it to the outside of the cone, used a black sharpie to color them black.
4:00 thanks for the knowledge, this is very interesting. Has anyone ever experimented with a powerful deep excursion subwoofer and deep excursion passive radiator? Will it just blow apart? I'm thinking the ported box always wins when it comes to output. I built a 2.4 cu ft slot port box for my RF T2 12 a long time ago. It had 3 inches of movement and would knock the rust loose on my poor little Toyota Corolla. Lol You couldn't smoke in that car with Bass Mechanic playing, it was disturb my breathing and choke me up. Lololol 🤣 I need to find another econobox and build another system. More smiles per mile on the way to work.
We use a Clay type epoxy sometimes I will check the name and post it but it doesn't harden till you kneed it with the center which is a different color so you could keep adding the epoxy till the proper mass is met like Patrick said then activate the same clay/epoxy your using to tune and shpe it and stick it on the coil section of the PR
You should be able to calculate mass with the help of your box modeling software easily enough by using your passive radiator's area as port area, finding the port length with your modelling software then multiplying port volume by the mass of air in that port. Passive radiator is just doing the job of whatever mass of air would be held and resonating in a port of that diameter at the appropriate length for your desired tuning.
Im building a wireless bluetooth speaker with dayton audio nd140-4 and it has vas of 7.22 liters and fs of 59hz and the box will have two dayton audio ND140-PR passive radiators, will do the tuning when i get the box fully done. I made the box bit too small, its only 5.4 liters and it has amp and battery taking bit of the volume too but i hope it sounds good enough for portable speaker
I'm re-watching this getting some ideas for my build. Im making what i call the deaf cube. I have a cheap Rockville punisher with a rms of 1200w and i have 3 12" earthquake slaps passive radiators. Im going to top mount and invert the 10 in like a 1.4ish cubic foot box and place the 3 radiators on the sides. And probably going to buy a 4th too have a full surround of radiators. I don't know what kind of math to use to see if this will work I'm pretty much just doing a trial and error 🤞
Is it true that you only want a passive radiator horizontally so gravity does not affect the radiator's movement? I was gonna use it in an under seat enclosure for my truck...
Now I want to try those tacos that Sheri told me about.. lol. Yes, you can use a 15" PR or even two if you want. There's a difference between what is needed / required and what it is that you can actually get away with. You know this. I do however recommend a Sunfire cabinet of sorts for your orange beef with broccoli 10" sub I made you. I have one here if you want to mod it. I also have some of the original 10" passives from Sunfire / TC Sounds, or we can make a matching one for the driver and make sure the cap is off center again.
After seeing this I think I want to try using a pair of passives with my Eclipse 88120 DVC subs. Currently they are in a dual sealed 1.25 cu ft enclosure powered by an Alpine PDX-1.1000. Patrick, I am local so I may stop by one of these weekends to pick up some items.
Sounds great! I'm changing the hours on the Google page today. It'll be by appointment only from here on in. Text me with your name and I'll add you to my phone. 6023126504
Wow some one just asked about this on another you tube video and I told them that you would be the guy to talk to they were try to avoid parts express from what I gathered. Then some one brought up them needing to be turned you were the only person I know of that has all the parts and equipment I told them to look you up. Might as well just get a sub built at the same time ✌️👍👌💯🎶🍻🎶
I'm glad I found this video. I have 6 budget 12's with 3 slap earthquake passive radiators. And Im making a video testing different weights. I have my weed scale ⚖️ lol . Did you ever try the slaps?
I have a question and it's directed to home theater subwoofers... why do everybody insist on SVS Subwoofers over everything else like Velodyne , HSU , Rythmik or even the diy route with Dayton Ultimax subs , is svs that good or what's going on?
Used to be a good value, now they're as pompous as all the rest. SVS used to be made by TC Sounds. Not that meant they were any better, but it was American made AND affordable. Save money, make your own ugly sub and then hide it.
Robot Underground the most knowledgeable and honest person when it comes to car audio.I bet companies hate this guy finally someone with guts to tell truth about car audio.
It just depends on what the application of the sub is. The best thing you can do is play with a box program to experiment as a simulator. See what happens to the response when you change the tuning frequency and then see what happens when you change the box size relative to the Vas.
Sometimes, there is no real fixed rule. So If the sd cone area is the same than you would want more x max on the passive radiator. Most not all PR set ups tend to run a bigger PR(12 inch subs get a 15 PR) or two PRs equall to driver size but not always. It is something that you have to play with a bit on paper and in the box. It comes down to q,vas power handling, the amplifier you want to run (there are small but important differences class damping ect)x max, Fs and bl . There is no rule of thumb if you like how it sounds than its right. And PR set ups will need time alignment in some cases. Mostly have fun trial and error is learning. And that's the fun part
@@thomasnygard2334 just to pick your brain, do you go with the recommended ported box size or sealed box size for a passive radiator? I think he said ported in the video
@@momar678 neither he said go with the VAS of the subwoofer you are using and work from there either adding or subtracting enclosure volume to suit your needs. If u were to go with ported that’s larger enclosure than the VAS because that’s not the subs resonant frequency the larger enclosure and port would dictate ur tuning period. Passive radiators are ports in sealed enclosures and sealed enclosures if built properly should compliment the subs resonant frequency then at that point u can get the proper mass to the passive radiator to get ur desired tuning…
It helps. Remember though that a passive can move like 3" peak to peak with an 8" spider and 3" center. So even if you have an 8" spider and use a 2.5" center, you get even more excursion available as long as the surround can keep up.
You can, however you're going to max out that single PR pretty quick. You'd want it to be at least one size or two sizes larger. Like 2x 12's and a single high excursion 15" or 18" pr.
Old school audio engineer told me the passive radiator should be at least 1.5-2 times bigger than a woofer Perfect example is SuperCube6000 from Definitive Technology a 1000dolar sub with 9" woofer and 2x 10" passive radiator I love passive radiators sub since 20yers ago I had my first earthquake magma with passive radiator
@@michalwisniewski8033 It depends on the size of the enclosure and the excursion of the passive. Smaller enclosure only needs one passive of equal or greater size. Especially if it has 2.5" or 3" excursion like the Sunfire TruSub by TC Sounds.
@RobotUnderground thanks for your message I lern something new Can you tell me your opinion about small "subwoofer" under 8" it's really Hype and popular on RUclips now, brands like dyton audio or tang band Small speakers with long x max They play a quality bass or just making a noise and vibration in room? I don't have experience with them because subwoofer for me means 8" or bigger driver with low fs without eq or dsp boost Thanks and sorry for my English it's not my first language
@@michalwisniewski8033 Only good for very small environments like a very small car and even then, you're probably better off with something that's an all in one. Like we have this sub for just $75 each shipped. amzn.to/3EC75BP
There's only one mistake you made when mounting the PR reversed like that ... and that is you have now increased the enclosure volume by the cone displacement... you need to know what this is and fit a block of wood or something with the same volume inside the enclosure. You can get false readings if you don't do this ..
Would you be able to get a lower tuning level by using a bigger radiator than the woofer or is the limit set by the fs/vas? Have one of the new alpine type r w12d2 but want to go lower than the 24hz but would still like the punch of a sealed box.
You can achieve a lower tuning frequency simply by adding more mass to the passive radiator. Tuning too low can make it useless. Remember not to tune any lower than 30Hz for 99.9% of all applications. Ideal is 32 to 36hz to keep the system relatively efficient.
@@caseytbss Some of the music I listen to has content that drops that low and my subs at home drop to about 19hz which i like, in the car however i would say it does not even approach 30hz, this is much more likely to do with the dimensions of the car(Toyota Yaris/small hatch) than the box or the sub which is a 2 cuft ported, the subs at home are sealed 12s but they drop much lower or at least sound like they do in my room.
BTW if yourusing these passive radiator on a night shade or a dc level5 or whatever you will need 2 per sub most likely also passive does offer a much narrower band width then a port so there is definitely some research todo before jumping . I am looking todo this soon earth quake makes a double radiator c Allen the pump that would probably work well for more extreme subs
Not true. You just need a passive that can really move a bunch. If you're using a 10" spider and mega roll, you're fine. One way to keep it to a single PR is to keep the box small.
First man who explained for real how to do this with no bs. Liked subscribed . Thanks a lot
I’ve always loved small enclosures with passive radiators. That was such a cool video you just did I enjoyed watching that.👍
I'm glad I could help MoFo. Some day, we'll have to get together and swap moms. ruclips.net/video/X0DeIqJm4vM/видео.html
@@RobotUnderground I watched that and it was my first time!! 🎉 jizz party
When I tuned my 15 inch PR I did the putty test. Then when I had that weight I took some 6 gauge solid copper 'GROUND' wire and cut two pieces, bent to circles and soldered them into 1 ring then epoxied it to the outside of the cone, used a black sharpie to color them black.
Wheel weights work well and have really good adhesive if you know someone or work at a tire shop
What a good idea.
Good eye. I forgot about those turds and the tire shop has a ton of them they save for lead recycle.
On a little weed scale! LMAO
He Got me On that one there 🤭😊🤣🤣😂
Wizzle skizze my dizzle
4:00 thanks for the knowledge, this is very interesting. Has anyone ever experimented with a powerful deep excursion subwoofer and deep excursion passive radiator? Will it just blow apart? I'm thinking the ported box always wins when it comes to output. I built a 2.4 cu ft slot port box for my RF T2 12 a long time ago. It had 3 inches of movement and would knock the rust loose on my poor little Toyota Corolla. Lol You couldn't smoke in that car with Bass Mechanic playing, it was disturb my breathing and choke me up. Lololol 🤣 I need to find another econobox and build another system. More smiles per mile on the way to work.
Bigger than needed box will compromise power handling. Just keep that in mind.
awwww i was hoping this was going to use the 5400 PRs... those things are sweet!!!!
We use a Clay type epoxy sometimes I will check the name and post it but it doesn't harden till you kneed it with the center which is a different color so you could keep adding the epoxy till the proper mass is met like Patrick said then activate the same clay/epoxy your using to tune and shpe it and stick it on the coil section of the PR
PC-7
You should be able to calculate mass with the help of your box modeling software easily enough by using your passive radiator's area as port area, finding the port length with your modelling software then multiplying port volume by the mass of air in that port. Passive radiator is just doing the job of whatever mass of air would be held and resonating in a port of that diameter at the appropriate length for your desired tuning.
Thanks for the tips!
Im building a wireless bluetooth speaker with dayton audio nd140-4 and it has vas of 7.22 liters and fs of 59hz and the box will have two dayton audio ND140-PR passive radiators, will do the tuning when i get the box fully done. I made the box bit too small, its only 5.4 liters and it has amp and battery taking bit of the volume too but i hope it sounds good enough for portable speaker
I used hockey pucks and a bolt to tune a diy 18 inch passive radiator once work great
lol. Yep. Whatever's clever.
I'm re-watching this getting some ideas for my build. Im making what i call the deaf cube. I have a cheap Rockville punisher with a rms of 1200w and i have 3 12" earthquake slaps passive radiators. Im going to top mount and invert the 10 in like a 1.4ish cubic foot box and place the 3 radiators on the sides. And probably going to buy a 4th too have a full surround of radiators. I don't know what kind of math to use to see if this will work I'm pretty much just doing a trial and error 🤞
You're overthinking it. If the Punisher is 10", you only need one 12" SLAPS
@@RobotUnderground I'm overthinking it on purpose. I'm just experimenting with adding each radiator to see if I'll get more spl
lead weights used for balancing car wheels?
Yes or for fishing
Interesting. Always wondered how the passive radiators worked.
Is it true that you only want a passive radiator horizontally so gravity does not affect the radiator's movement? I was gonna use it in an under seat enclosure for my truck...
No diff.
Can a person use a single 15" radiator for a single 10" sub? Or is it overkill? If not, what about two 15" radiators with a single 10" sub?
Now I want to try those tacos that Sheri told me about.. lol. Yes, you can use a 15" PR or even two if you want. There's a difference between what is needed / required and what it is that you can actually get away with. You know this. I do however recommend a Sunfire cabinet of sorts for your orange beef with broccoli 10" sub I made you. I have one here if you want to mod it. I also have some of the original 10" passives from Sunfire / TC Sounds, or we can make a matching one for the driver and make sure the cap is off center again.
After seeing this I think I want to try using a pair of passives with my Eclipse 88120 DVC subs. Currently they are in a dual sealed 1.25 cu ft enclosure powered by an Alpine PDX-1.1000. Patrick, I am local so I may stop by one of these weekends to pick up some items.
Sounds great! I'm changing the hours on the Google page today. It'll be by appointment only from here on in. Text me with your name and I'll add you to my phone. 6023126504
Wow some one just asked about this on another you tube video and I told them that you would be the guy to talk to they were try to avoid parts express from what I gathered. Then some one brought up them needing to be turned you were the only person I know of that has all the parts and equipment I told them to look you up. Might as well just get a sub built at the same time ✌️👍👌💯🎶🍻🎶
Text me with your name and shipping address and I'll add you to my phone. 6023126504
I'm glad I found this video. I have 6 budget 12's with 3 slap earthquake passive radiators. And Im making a video testing different weights. I have my weed scale ⚖️ lol . Did you ever try the slaps?
I have resold a few. It's just a piece of MDF with foam on it.
How about wheel stick-on weights
Yep. Those would work encapsulated in epoxy or resin.
I have a question and it's directed to home theater subwoofers... why do everybody insist on SVS Subwoofers over everything else like Velodyne , HSU , Rythmik or even the diy route with Dayton Ultimax subs , is svs that good or what's going on?
Used to be a good value, now they're as pompous as all the rest. SVS used to be made by TC Sounds. Not that meant they were any better, but it was American made AND affordable. Save money, make your own ugly sub and then hide it.
What sizes would I need for a duel 12 sealed box?
Just text me direct with your name and shipping address. 6023126504
Robot Underground the most knowledgeable and honest person when it comes to car audio.I bet companies hate this guy finally someone with guts to tell truth about car audio.
Only the corrupt ones hate me
Yes that's a good point.
Could you essentially "gut" a woofer and make it a passive radiator ?
HELL yeah you can ,
Yes, you can even keep the magnet on there if you want. You just have to figure out how to add or subtract the mass to tune it.
@@RobotUnderground thats pretty awesome concept id love to try myself.
Once I know the FS of my Sub.. Do I want my Enclosure (Ported) tune to be lower or higher or equal to the FS? Sorry for the Noob Question.
It just depends on what the application of the sub is. The best thing you can do is play with a box program to experiment as a simulator. See what happens to the response when you change the tuning frequency and then see what happens when you change the box size relative to the Vas.
I know that I'm pretty late to the game but any chance that you have any of these left?
Yes. Just text me direct with your name and your shipping address 602-312-6504
34hz shit
18hz good 👍
Also the cone area of a PR should be larger than the driver cone area ...
It doesn't have to be if it has more excursion
Great video sir very educational 👍 👍
Many many thanks
Radiator needs 2x xmax of speaker correct?
Sometimes, there is no real fixed rule. So If the sd cone area is the same than you would want more x max on the passive radiator. Most not all PR set ups tend to run a bigger PR(12 inch subs get a 15 PR) or two PRs equall to driver size but not always. It is something that you have to play with a bit on paper and in the box. It comes down to q,vas power handling, the amplifier you want to run (there are small but important differences class damping ect)x max, Fs and bl . There is no rule of thumb if you like how it sounds than its right. And PR set ups will need time alignment in some cases. Mostly have fun trial and error is learning. And that's the fun part
@@thomasnygard2334 just to pick your brain, do you go with the recommended ported box size or sealed box size for a passive radiator? I think he said ported in the video
@@momar678 I run just below on my box but the ported size is right . Give or take 20%
@@momar678 neither he said go with the VAS of the subwoofer you are using and work from there either adding or subtracting enclosure volume to suit your needs. If u were to go with ported that’s larger enclosure than the VAS because that’s not the subs resonant frequency the larger enclosure and port would dictate ur tuning period. Passive radiators are ports in sealed enclosures and sealed enclosures if built properly should compliment the subs resonant frequency then at that point u can get the proper mass to the passive radiator to get ur desired tuning…
It helps. Remember though that a passive can move like 3" peak to peak with an 8" spider and 3" center. So even if you have an 8" spider and use a 2.5" center, you get even more excursion available as long as the surround can keep up.
You still have 12s in stock?
Yep. Are you in America?
can 1 passive radiator work on a 2 subwoofer box or does it have to be 1 radiator for each woofer?
You can, however you're going to max out that single PR pretty quick. You'd want it to be at least one size or two sizes larger. Like 2x 12's and a single high excursion 15" or 18" pr.
Old school audio engineer told me the passive radiator should be at least 1.5-2 times bigger than a woofer
Perfect example is SuperCube6000 from Definitive Technology a 1000dolar sub with 9" woofer and 2x 10" passive radiator
I love passive radiators sub since 20yers ago I had my first earthquake magma with passive radiator
@@michalwisniewski8033 It depends on the size of the enclosure and the excursion of the passive. Smaller enclosure only needs one passive of equal or greater size. Especially if it has 2.5" or 3" excursion like the Sunfire TruSub by TC Sounds.
@RobotUnderground thanks for your message I lern something new
Can you tell me your opinion about small "subwoofer" under 8" it's really Hype and popular on RUclips now, brands like dyton audio or tang band
Small speakers with long x max
They play a quality bass or just making a noise and vibration in room?
I don't have experience with them because subwoofer for me means 8" or bigger driver with low fs without eq or dsp boost
Thanks and sorry for my English it's not my first language
@@michalwisniewski8033 Only good for very small environments like a very small car and even then, you're probably better off with something that's an all in one. Like we have this sub for just $75 each shipped. amzn.to/3EC75BP
There's only one mistake you made when mounting the PR reversed like that ... and that is you have now increased the enclosure volume by the cone displacement... you need to know what this is and fit a block of wood or something with the same volume inside the enclosure. You can get false readings if you don't do this ..
You'll find it's not that big of a deal.
Would you be able to get a lower tuning level by using a bigger radiator than the woofer or is the limit set by the fs/vas?
Have one of the new alpine type r w12d2 but want to go lower than the 24hz but would still like the punch of a sealed box.
You can achieve a lower tuning frequency simply by adding more mass to the passive radiator. Tuning too low can make it useless. Remember not to tune any lower than 30Hz for 99.9% of all applications. Ideal is 32 to 36hz to keep the system relatively efficient.
Why would you want to go lower than 24hz? That’s way below Fs of that sub
@@caseytbss Some of the music I listen to has content that drops that low and my subs at home drop to about 19hz which i like, in the car however i would say it does not even approach 30hz, this is much more likely to do with the dimensions of the car(Toyota Yaris/small hatch) than the box or the sub which is a 2 cuft ported, the subs at home are sealed 12s but they drop much lower or at least sound like they do in my room.
👍
times up im out
Cancer get you?
@@RobotUnderground yup
ssssubbbeddd
May GONZO bless you with creamy jets of love and joy from your baby maker.
BTW if yourusing these passive radiator on a night shade or a dc level5 or whatever you will need 2 per sub most likely also passive does offer a much narrower band width then a port so there is definitely some research todo before jumping . I am looking todo this soon earth quake makes a double radiator c Allen the pump that would probably work well for more extreme subs
Not true. You just need a passive that can really move a bunch. If you're using a 10" spider and mega roll, you're fine. One way to keep it to a single PR is to keep the box small.
You can also go up one or two sizes if you really feel the need. Like a 15" or 18" PR for the 12" active sub.