RS 660 | Chain & Sprocket Review | Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 11 авг 2022
- Chain & Sprocket Install Part 1: • RS 660 | Chain & Sproc...
This is a review of the rear Superlite Sprocket Install. The Aprilia RS 660 stock rear sprocket is 43 teeth. I increased the number of teeth to 47 and the results were amazing.
Links
www.blocklayer.com/chain-spro...
www.gearingcommander.com/
Music: Pixabay.com / ComaStudio 
Авто/Мото
ATTENTION! After the sprocket change, you will have to calibrate the a-PRC. This is very easy to do from the menu. On the left handlebar hold the right arrow to access the menu. Select vehicle and then calibration. A message will appear on the dash saying that the speed reading is wrong. You will have to ride on 2nd gear at 24-25mph or 39-40km/h and it will auto calibrate in a few seconds. It will display a message that its set and to turn the key to off. Stop the bike, turn the key to off, wait for about a minute and you are good to go.
@Aleksandar Hristov I rode the bike with the new sprocket without calibrating it through the dash, and I had correct speedo numbers. I tested it with another bike next to me. That proves that changing the sprockets won’t affect the speedo numbers, but it is best that its still calibrated for correct traction control readings and overall electronics performance. The one thing that will definitely affect speedo numbers is an increase or decrease in tire size/diameter.
@@ALFAVITAGA Good to know Mike, thanks for the Info :)
@@Pierre-Irwan Thank you ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA Hey Brotha! I just did the same sprocket and gold chain mod. I tried calibrating it just now and it just keeps saying "Calibration running speed not correct". I rode it up to 60 mph and it still says the same thing. It doesn't say stop bike and turn off bike. Maybe im not doing it correctly any idea whats going on?
@@emang6284 First of all you have to make sure your speed is stable and constant at 25mph on 2nd gear with very steady throttle. You can’t have your speed fluctuate. If you’re doing everything right and its still not calibrating, it could be something else. If your clutch safety switch is broken it could be the reason.
Amazing video! Great explanation and presentation. 🤙🏼
Yet another detailed review 👌
I appreciate that brother! 💪
Great video as always mike!
Much appreciated brother! ✌️
Hey Mike! I just found your channel and I'm really impressed with all the cool stuff you share in your videos. I was just about to write a comment asking you for advice for calculating gear ratios and then you showed these awesome websites in your video which are really helpful in my opinion! I am planning on getting my a2 license next summer and also buying a rs660 35kw, then tinker with the websites a bit to get the highest top speed/acceleration out of the 35kw's.
Thank you my friend! Im glad my videos help you. You will love the RS660! ✌️
Great comparison!
This is so much good information
Thank you! ✌️
Nice video!! Bro mou
Hehe thanks! 💪
Great Video Mike, was thinking about doing this. I don’t commute with mine, just for weekend blasts, can’t go more than 70mph here in UK , well that’s when they not looking🫢 lol
Was the acceleration better than stock?
Up to 70mph its fine. Sometimes when I ride a larger distance through the freeway I tend to reach 100mph(when they’re not looking lol) and 6th gear runs a little high with the new sprocket. It was running a little high even with the stock sprocket for my preference. But again I rarely commute at those speeds. The acceleration is much quicker than before, and the bike is smoother overall. I 100% recommend it!
@@ALFAVITAGA thank you for the info! Awesome content👍🏻👌🏻
@@wolf1980reed 💪👍
When you say the "acceleration is fsster," are you meaning at speeds above 60, or from stop? I was thinking of going down 1 front sprocket to get more torque/acceleration from a stop.
You're reading 233 on your speedo because they are typically around 8% off (Speedo is based off wheel rpm not transmission rpm, so not changing gears doesn't have effect)
True speedo is based on wheel rpm not transmission. If you are referring to the website calculator it is also calculating the wheel diameter with the tire to give you the speed difference. But its not exactly accurate. Sprocket size does not affect speed as many think and does not need the speedo to be recalibrated. That’s only required if the size of the wheel changes. The calculator could be giving the real speed. As you mentioned the speedo is around 8% off if tested with gps speed.
Hi. That’s a great video. So interesting, I am going to try it. But wouldn’t the speedo reading be incorrect after this gearing change? I understand the calibration being more about TC accuracy. Regards. Ps. In other replies you say speed increase, but isn’t that now Speedo error? Have you validated speeds by using a GPS?
Thank you! I have verified the speedometer and it has not changed. Changing the sprocket does not affect the speedometer, as the speed is measured by the wheel revolutions that the sensor reads. The only thing that can affect the speedometer is an increase or decrease in the wheels/tires circumference. This can happen by changing tire size. The reason for the calibration is not for adjusting the speedometer but only to calibrate the aPRC. By changing sprocket size, the engine will operate on different RPM at the same wheel revolutions than it did before. The calibration is basically done to have the ECU link the information between wheel revolutions and engine RPM for optimal electronic assistance like traction control. This calibration should also be done as the tire wears to a shorter diameter. The speed can be affected by tire wear, but the effect is so negligible that the speedometer doesn’t even read it as it goes in increments of 1 and not 0.1.
@@ALFAVITAGA Excellent, thank you!
Have you done remapping of the traction control? And it is still not working well? Remapping is recommended in the manual after change of the sprocket. Otherwise this mod is kinda killing traction control which I would prefer to keep.
In what page in the manual does it say this? This is the first I’m hearing this. Traction control is conducted by the difference in wheel rotation of the front and rear wheel. Thats what ATC reads. It can’t understand that a different sprocket was installed. If that was the case, then ATC would work only in one gear, as shifting gears essentially changes gearing. My ATC works perfect with the new sprocket. I don’t even think ATC remapping is even a thing. I have Gabros map that retains all Aprilia features , riding modes and electronics. Unless I’m wrong and I’m missing something here 🤷♂️
@@ALFAVITAGA I used the wrong word, it is calibration of aPRC not remapping of ATC .
In pdf manual it is page 62 in book (bilingual) page 84. Manual says it is required in case of change of tyre type or final drive ratio (changing sproket changes the fin. ratio). As per manual it is easy and you can do it yourself :)
Good to hear you have no issues with ATC I was thinking to change but ATC was my concern. Thanks!
@@gremer6 Oh ok I see what you meant. The answer is yes, the a-PRC needs to be calibrated after the sprocket change. This is very easy to do from the menu. It was a good point mentioning this so I will pin a new comment on how to calibrate it. Thanks for bringing this up! ✌️
Actually you did not gain top speed. You are correct 6th gear is mostly dead, but mostly. In real life roads won't always be level and wind wouldn't always be in same way.
I got your point and logic and yes I agree, shortening it will also give you "higher" useable speed. For instance on track, in Istanbul Park I get around 212kmh at the back straight and if I shorten the gears it'll probably be around 220kmh. This would apply in real world too, but if you're not dragging too much to wind, 6th gear will slowly pull you upwards, bike can achieve around 240kmh with stock gearing, with a little bit of weight.
All in favour, I'm also planning to get a 16T front but still I wouldn't comment on this as "I gained top speed" since at least for my understanding top speed is the TOP speed, not the speed you get in an acceptable time. Cheers.
I agree with you that by definition of “top speed” I lost top speed on paper. But I gained “usable top speed”. Sure under the perfect conditions with wind on my back and downhill road I could achieve around 240km/h on stock gearing, but these conditions are not realistic. Therefore I wasn’t able to push more than 228km/h. For me numbers on paper don’t mean much. If that was the case we wouldn’t have races on the track, we would have them on dynos. But some people don’t understand the concept of “usable numbers” like you explained it and they get confused.
Question: Does the speed still match with the real speed? So lets assume before the mod 60mph, was real 60mph, after the mod is 60 still 60, or is the 60 now 55, or 65 mph? In otherwords is the spidometer sitll accurate?
Yes it matches. The speedometer is not affected by the change in sprocket sizes. The speed is not measured in relation to the engines RPM. It is measured in tire revolutions. Thats why the only thing that can change the speed readings, is a change in tire circumference. For instance if you go with a different size profile tire you would need to calibrate the speedometer. With sprocket change the only thing you need to calibrate is the APRC and that can be done in 1 minute through the dash menu.
Nicely done. Subbed. Can you attach a link to where you got the sprocket?
I appreciate that! This was the only place I could find a Superlite 47T sprocket. sprocketcenter.com Super quick shipping!
@@ALFAVITAGA Thank you so much, couldn't find it on AF1
@@TheRealBertMoog AF1 is my go to place but couldn’t find it either. When it comes to chain and sprockets sprocketcenter.com is the place.
Would you recommend the 47T Sprocket?
I was thinking to change my front sprocket from 17T to 16T.. 🤔
It depends on what you want. I recommend the 47T because it retains the wear rate and wheelbase length. But if you change to a 47T you will need to change your chain from the stock 110 links to an aftermarket chain at 112 links. That will add cost. If you change the front sprocket to 16T you can keep the stock chain at 110 links. The only downside to the 16T is wear rate. It drops to 47% on the front. But not the end of the world. If you want a cheap quick mod you could definitely go with the 16T. Just know that the stock chain will have to go sooner or later as it is bad quality chain and squeaks too often.
@@ALFAVITAGA thanks for the perfect explanation 🫶🏼
@@mario_ricco My pleasure! ✌️
Do you have any videos how to get rid of the rear brake squealing noise? Also do you have the links for the sprocket and chain. I want to do the same mod you did. Thanks a lot love the videos! Your videos are making me spend more money lmao
Lol good to know. So there is nothing much you can do to remove the rear brake squealing other than just use it more and in time it will go away. Another solution is to just replace the rear brake pad with an aftermarket one. I have all the links of all the mods in the description of this video: ruclips.net/video/yzQYhrjx-6o/видео.htmlsi=PbBHoUfQokFZ_5Ux
Thanks a lot bro! Keep up the great videos!
I plan on doing the same to mine. Can you provide links to where you got the parts. I checked Revzilla and they are not available. What number links did you get for the chain?
I got everything from sprocketcenter.com It was the only place I could find a 47T rear sprocket. Super fast shipping, but if you are in the LA area they have in store pick up too. For the 47T, I had to go up 2 links at 112.
@@mr.stickyfingers3189 The stock chain is 110 links not 114. In the video I use 112 links chain. 112 will add two more links and it will be the perfect length for the 47T rear sprocket.
@@ALFAVITAGA ok, they say stock is 114. I got enough that I can cut it. Thanks man
@@mr.stickyfingers3189 If you go at the RS660 manual on page CHA-19 under Drive Chain you will see that it states 110 links. But if you get 114 links you will just remove 2 links. It is important to stay at 112 links as it retains the wheelbase length. Comment with an update how you like it once you install it and ride it. ✌️
I have a Tuono 660 Factory and Whats funny is that your new gears is exactly the same as my bike from factory.
That's because the tuono has shorter gears than the RS, but the Tuono 660 factory that I have has even shorter gears than the stock Tuono + it has the same power as the RS.
They should all have gearing like this :)
The Tuono 660 Factory has a 47T rear sprocket? I find that very odd. I just checked the manual and the base Tuono 660 has a 17/43 sprocket just like the stock RS660. Are you sure the Tuono 660 Factory has shorter gearing?
@@ALFAVITAGA haven't counted on the sprocket. I think they changed the front one. Either way 1st gear goes to 80 ish, 2nd to 105 ish and 3rd to 140-150 ish. That's stock gearing on a Tuono 660 Factory. Speed in km/h. Exactly the same as you now have in your vid.
@@Kristofferheihei Ok I see. Speed is not only determined by sprocket size. Aerodynamics play a crucial role in speed. The Tuono is not fully faired so being a naked bike it sacrifices speed. So even though the drive on the Tuono is set for a higher speed, it ends up having similar speeds with my shorter gearing.
@@ALFAVITAGANono you misunderstood, the gearing on my Tuono is Exactly the same as your RS660. Top speed in each gear is determined by gear ratio. Mine has a shorter gear ratio from factory as they changed the pinion gear.
So the difference is how gearing is changed, on my bike they changed the pinion gear whilst you changed the sprocket. Results ends up being the same gear ratio :)
Text below is from aprillia's home page:
'The maximum power is upped from the Tuono 660’s 95 hp to 100 hp with the Tuono 660 Factory. The engine boasts even more drive during acceleration, thanks to the use of a shorter final drive, with a 16-tooth pinion gear, one less than Tuono 660. '
@@Kristofferheihei Ok that makes sense. So for the Factory they dropped the front sprocket to 16T and kept the rear at 43T. That brings the final drive ratio to 2.688:1 My setup is 17T front and 47T rear. That brings the final drive ratio to 2.765:1 So my gear ratio is a little shorter than the Factory but still very close.
Oh okay! But even though I don’t Calibrate it. It should be fine?
It should be fine. But still calibrate it just to be perfect.. 👌
Hey Brotha! What do you think of the Gabro imu damper?
I recommend it! It’s a great addition ✌️
Ακραίο 💪🏽 θα ήθελα να το δω σε στροφές. Πόσο εύκολα κάνει σούζα πλέον ?
Σηκώνεται πιο εύκολα. Αλλά δεν το έχω δοκιμάσει ακόμα. Θα το δοκιμάσω.
@@ALFAVITAGA ότι καλύτερο έχεις κάνει στο μηχανάκι σου θεωρώ μετά από φίλτρο εξάτμιση. Άμα έρθει αυτή η ώρα θα ακολουθήσω πιστά την συνταγή σου 👌🏽💯
@@BONTHEBLOCK 💯👌
Ζηλεύωωωωωωω !!!!! 😫😫😫
Hahaaaa 💪😛
Will 16/45 with 114 length be ok or should I stick with 112. 114 will give me a better wear rate.
114 chain links at 16/45 will increase your sprocket centers from 632mm stock to 659mm. Thats a very large increase and I don’t recommend it. 112 link will also increase the sprocket centers to 643mm which is still a bit much but better than 114. The combination of sprockets you chose are not the easiest to work with when finding the perfect chain link/sprocket combo. I wouldn’t have chosen 16/45. But if you want to stay at 16/45, then go with either 110 links or 112. I would go with 110.
@ALFAVITAGA thanks for the help.
Once these sprockets goes out I'll change it to the same setups as yours.
Do you have a comparison of acceleartion? 0 - 100 / 100 - 200
And I also surprised that your bike just make 229kmh with original sprocket. I have the 100PS version and its going until almost 250kmh.
Under ideal conditions the top speed should be over 240km/h on stock gearing. But we don’t always ride on ideal conditions. Unfortunately, I never recorded a before and after 0-100 acceleration.
Hi, do you know if 17/47 will fit with the 110 link chain allowing the 30mm slack ?? I’d prefer to keep the existing chain. Thanks
@@pauljarvis3893 For 17/47 you need 112 chain links. If you keep 110 links the wheel base will shorten significantly and it will affect the handling of your bike. Not to mention that it might shorten it so much that the swingarm wont allow the wheel axle to move any more forward.
100-200 time comparison?
That was the plan. To record acceleration time comparisons. But during the stock sprocket recordings, I encountered some difficulties on the road and I had to get out of there as soon as possible lol. So I don’t have the stock sprocket acceleration times. Its so significant though that I can actually feel the difference.
I'm guessing the top speed in 6th grade drops due to ECU restrictions (throttle restricionts).
Not exactly. On paper the top speed in 6th gear dropped. But in actuality the top speed in 6th gear increased. Due to the stock gear ratio the engine did not have the power to increase the speed more that 229km/h. By altering the gear ratio the engine was able to push the top speed at 235km/h which qualifies as an increase in top speed even if the gear ratio calculations on paper result in a speed decrease. The only thing the ECU restricts is top RPM. With the shorter upgraded gearing I was able to reach redline in 6th gear, whereas with the stock gearing in 6th gear I could not. Overall numbers on paper help determine results but in reality numbers sometimes mean nothing in real life.
@@ALFAVITAGA My point is regardless of gearing the ECUs on these bikes are restricted, especially on top end. I don't know about the Aprilia but most Japanese bikes even restrict throttle by closing the secondary throttle plates.
@@alexventrov6826 That I’m not aware of. My Aprilia has no restriction on throttle. It’s full power until it reaches redline.
@@ALFAVITAGA Interesting... Maybe it is a little restricted you just don't feel it? Or it could be that they aren't restricted at all. I'd be curious to see tuning Dyno videos of the Rs 660, I haven't looked it up yet.
@@alexventrov6826 I dynoed my RS660 but unfortunately I didn’t dyno it stock, so I have no base numbers. ruclips.net/video/ohus7IVRCps/видео.html
I ride 250kmh with the stock Sprocket
The stock gearing can do that speed as long as the conditions allow it. ✌️
Is it just me or did nobody notice the 1000rpm in difference 2:06
That 1000rpm difference is what I explained on other comments and its a good proof of how gearing works. You see with the stock 43T sprocket the rpm cannot go over 10500 and thats why the top speed stopped at 229km/h. It has 1000rpm more to offer but the engine does not have the power to increase it. Therefore the “usable” top speed is 229km/h. If the bike was under favorable conditions, downhill, wind from the rear, lighter rider, then it would potentially be able to increase 1000rpm and redline it at over 240km/h. But if you can almost never reach that speed with ease, then its not “usable” speed. With the 47T sprocket the top speed decreases as it cannot reach over 240km/h but it can redline with ease even in non favorable conditions. In this case it redlined at 233km/h and I have redlined it at 235km/h max. 235km/h is a speed that the 43T sprocket would never reach under the same conditions. Which means that the “usable” top speed on the 47T sprocket is higher than the 43T sprocket. Its not what you can put down on paper. Its what the results are in practice. And the 47T sprocket proves that it will out-speed the 43T sprocket, even though the 43T is meant for a higher top speed. But since the 43T cannot push those last 1000rpm then it becomes “unusable”. So good point noticing the 1000rpm difference as that difference is the essence of this comparison.
@@ALFAVITAGA o ok i didn’t see the other comment and by the way I love your videos i just bought mi first bike and of course it’s a 2023 rs660 and your videos are better than the maintenance manual and love love the video of suspension adjustment id love to ride with you sometime.lastly just wondering if there is any reference for oil filter fittement like for the oil itself example 10w50 or any other part has a specific number to fitting
My Top speed drops from 238 to 215 after sprocket modification from 43 to 47
If you could reach 238 on a 43T, you should be able to reach 235 on the 47T. 215 makes no sense. There is no way you redlined the RPM and it toped at 215. Which means you probably were under some conditions that the bike could not exceed 215. Maybe front wind or up hill? The other thing I would normally ask is your weight, but I don’t really have to taking into consideration that you reached 238 on the 43T as that is an impressive top speed for the stock sprocket and you have to weigh below 220lbs to reach that. So weight is not the issue here. The 660 engine doesn’t have the power to redline the 43T sprocket, which is meant to redline near 250. So you hitting 238 on a 43T is very impressive. You were probably under the perfect conditions. Did you try the top speed on the 47T at the same road under the same conditions and did you redline the 47T?
@@ALFAVITAGA 238 was on stock exhaust without mods. After installing SC project and flash Gabro map, I noticed significant drop of top speed, without measuring. Then install 47 on the rear, latest top speed was 220. Bike is running very lean with Gabro map, headers become red quick without running.
@@viaceslavv905 Installing an SC Project exhaust with Gabros map does not drop your top speed. It sounds to me that you may be checking your top speed on different external conditions.
You can’t gain top speed and acceleration at the same time.
You are right. On paper, you cannot gain acceleration and top speed at the same time by altering the gearing. But numbers on paper don’t always apply in real life. In this case I gained top speed and acceleration. I shortened the gearing by adding 4 teeth on the rear, thus gaining acceleration. Thats a fact. On paper, the RS660 with its stock gearing at 17/43 is calculated for a top speed of 257km/h. This number does not take into consideration external variables like wind resistance, tire friction, weight of the bike and rider. In theory, if you would lift the rear tire on a rear stand and accelerate up to the RPM limiter on 6th gear, the speedometer would display a speed around 257km/h. But once you add the variables, that speed drops because the engine doesn’t have the power to defeat the variables and bring the RPMs to its limit. Resulting in lower engine RPM, hence lower top speed. Its what we call realistic speed based on the variables. In my case the top speed with the stock gearing was around 228km/h. That is my reference point, or base line. So my realistic top speed dropped 29km/h, from 257 on paper to 228 on the road. On paper, with the change in gearing to 17/47, the top speed is 235km/h. In this case the variables were not able to affect the engines RPM as the shorter gearing allowed the engine to reach max RPM, hence reach the top speed of 235km/h. Yes, my top speed on paper dropped. It went from 257 with stock gearing, to 235 with the shorter gearing. But with the stock gearing I could only reach 228km/h, whereas with the shorter gearing I can reach 235km/h. Thats a 7km/h increase in top speed on the road. Numbers on paper matter as a reference point. But numbers is not what wins you races. If that was the case we would just compare dyno numbers and announce the winner. Real life results on the asphalt is what matters. And this gearing upgrade makes the bike accelerate faster and reach a higher top speed. I hope my explanation is clear enough to understand the above process. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA I understand totally the idea, thanks for taking the time to repeat yourself by the way. I just really struggle to believe you gained both.
With only 3 teeth on the rear sprocket I d lose 15km/h on first gear. Anyway I d have to test the bike myself and I ll come back to you.
I m buying one soon.
@@ALFAVITAGA also the top speed stock is 240 right ?
@@Farsightful If you look at the video on 6th gear with stock gearing I couldn’t go over 229km/h but with 4 teeth increase on the rear I went up to 233km/h on 6th gear. Thats an increase in top speed on the road. Good luck with your RS660 purchase. You’re going to love it!
@@ALFAVITAGA thank you good sir : ) I can’t wait to have mine. Also does it break the guarantee if I modify m sprocket ? Or insurance even ? ( for road usage only)
Questa modifica è chiaramente peggiorativa.
Hai perso in accelerazione e non riesci più a sfruttare la 6a marcia.
9/10 people change the gearing on their RS660 for a reason. The stock gearing comes very tall at 17/43. There is a reason behind the choice of this gearing. Better fuel consumption and a more comfortable cruising speeds on 6th gear are a couple. For some, this is a great choice of gearing if all they want their bike for is commuting and comfortable rides. For the enthusiast though the stock gearing is very sluggish and strips the bike of its maximum potential. Some either change the front sprocket to a 16T or change the rear to a 45-47T. This makes the gearing shorter which improves acceleration. To say it does not, is going agains science and physics. If you ride a bike before and after the gearing change you will feel the difference in acceleration. The acceleration is so profound that the front wheel can’t stay on the ground.
@@ALFAVITAGA quindi hai montato un 47 al posto del 43, lasciando il pignone originale e la moto ha perso in accelerazione e non riesci più a tirare la 6a marcia.
Allora le tue modifiche sul motore hanno diminuito la potenza.
Difficile migliorare un bicilindrico da 167cv/L.
@@ZERODOSI Ok I’m having difficulties understanding what you mean exactly. The RS660 is 100HP at the crank with a 659cc engine. That translates to 151.7HP/L which is 153.7CV/L. It is difficult to gain a lot of HP out of this small twin engine, but saying that my engine modifications have decreased power is wrong. I have installed a full race SC Project exhaust system, with Gabros map, air filter and velocity stacks. This combo only increase engine power not decrease. I don’t know why you think my engine modifications decreased power. Also the sprocket has nothing to do with altering engine power. By increasing the rear sprocket teeth you increase acceleration and decrease top speed. By decreasing the number of teeth you decrease acceleration and increase top speed. Again, my bike gained acceleration! It did not lose acceleration.
@@ALFAVITAGA si, giusto 659cc.
La moto con la corona da 47 denti non è quella a destra?
@@ZERODOSI Yes. But the videos two clips are not recorded in real time. Don’t get confused with the fact that with the 47T each gear has dropped speed. It has dropped speed on all gears but the end result is reaching top speed faster than the left clip. Also, don’t compare the speed based on the location of the bike on the road. This video does not show the acceleration difference. It just shows how much speed drops on every gear. Just because speed is lower on every gear it doesn’t mean acceleration has dropped. It means gears must shift quicker than before, and as a result the top speed is reached faster. I hope the explanation makes sense. I don’t how else to explain it.