HONDA GL1500 GOLDWING getting to the rear wheel, by the book!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2023
- 1997 Honda GL1500 Goldwing. I showed how I lifted up the rear plastics to get to the rear wheel in a previous video, so now I am doing it by the book. You determine which method is best for you and how you want to do it. Please like and subscribe to my channel and leave a comment on how you like to do it, especially if you do something different.
• 1997 Honda GL1500 Gold...
DISCLAIMER - I am not paid or endorsed by anyone mentioned in the video. I do believe in spreading the word on good products and dealers to help the consumer. I do not claim to be a mechanic. If you decide to do any mods that I have done it will be at your own risk and I will not be held liable. Also all content is my opinions only and not considered as advice, please do your own research.
The reuse of this video without written permission of the owner is not allowed. 
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Nice video. Would love to see as clear a video of greasing up the rear drive & driven flange splines!
Thank You!! Okay, I'll have to plan that on my next rear drive maintenance. I did recently grease my whole rear drive unit and also re greased the splines at the wheel when I replaced the tires a couple of weeks ago, I didn't really show much of that I don't think. I did film the re installation of the rear wheel, but it just didn't seem very interesting, so I didn't post it. Thanks for the comment!
Wish I watched this before attempting the shortcut on my 200SE with crash bar and a hitch. Ended up doing it by the book, lesson learned. but ill add both your videos were very helpful. Thank you
Oh yeah for sure. I like using both methods depending on what I need to do but I think this method is the safest for the bike as far as not having anything break
Your videos are very helpful to those who have the type of bikes you’re working on and your information is very clear to understand! 💥🇺🇸👍🏼🇺🇸💥
Thank You Jim, I appreciate that! Thanks for the comment!!
You took the right Saddlebag off actually you can leave it on. Now. I used to show off 20 years ago and do a rear tire change in 40 minutes. That was before this collar that sits inside the hub stayed on the drive shaft and it took a whole lot of time to get the rim off. Not sure exactly why it still dose this time to time. because I found away 0nce you remove the right muffler. Then remove the axel nut. Gently rest the bike on its right side. Go through the steps of removing. The bolt to the shock on swingarm. Take rear brake off bracket do not dissemble brake line. Pull out axel lift tire off shaft drive unit and pull out of bottom of bike. Real easy as long as that collar stayed in the drive shaft unit it is part #18 on the 95 Goldwing fiche COLLAR B, RR.DISTANCE part #42625-MW5-000. Then it is fairly fast to get it back together like this too.
Thanks for sharing that Jeff.
Another terrific video Herbie! Thank you for showing us both ways. So dang helpful. Now I'm not sure which way I'll use because you make both ways look easy. Well done.
Grant
Thank you Grant! Either way works well, but I will probably be doing it this way from now on to tell you the truth. Thanks for the comment!!
Thank you made my life a lot easier cause I'm about to do my back tire as well and this method looks so much easier, thank you for putting this video out
Your welcome, I hope everything goes well with
I have always done mine this way. done it a dozen times. I have a hitch so it has to come off anyways and much easier with all the space. Only thing I watched you do and have had issues with, is the release cables white plastic ends. I could never get them to squeeze thru holes. So I made a tool for doing it to close all clips to slide thru hole. I enjoy working on my bike, so to spend some time tearing the back off is fun to me. Thanks for the video.
Hello Bill, you sound like me, I enjoy working on my bike as well, I’m always tinkering on something. You’re welcome, ride safe brother!
If you only want to remove the rear tire, it is not necessary to remove the two saddlebags, just the left one where the brake is and the central part. That's enough.
Yes, I wanted to show the complete process in case someone wanted to do an inspection while tearing it down this far. It's not that much extra to do and it gives you complete viewing from both sides. Thanks for the tip though
I didn't do it this way and after seeing all that I saw I wish I had. LOL But also, it's because of the condition my bike is in. when I took the liners out of the boxes left and right I could see all kinds of damage that i DID NOT check for when I bought it. The bottoms of my side bags are spider webbed with cracks and broken out plastics. Yikes. I mean I can see the ground through them clearly. Gonna take a a lot of fixing. I gathered all the pieces though and I am pretty good at abs plastics, i might be doing some fab work because looks like some of it is just gone.
I did run into another problem that would have happened either way probably because I just didn't think of it. I have put some miles on this since I got it and I am a LARGE , lol I mean, i'm 6'2" and 285. so I had the air pressure up a bit. Well I didn't reduce that before I started all this and after I had the axle out and began trying to get the Brake stay out I ran into a big bummer. The tension on the lower shock pin was so great and the wheel was already axle less I had to Put a lever under the wheel and force it Upwards to relieve some of the tension WHILE also trying to pull that pin the shock was jamming down on. OH BOY! You don't want to have this happen, it took me probably 45 min to get that stay out LOL. Before all that I did try to start the bike to engage the pressure relief but It would not start - not even a peep, I am hoping that was some kind of safety thing going on due to the wheel being half the way off, otherwise I have some other issue.
I did get it out though, haven't started on getting that tire off yet, still recovering from the driveway yoga moves. LOL but I will get r done. maybe still yet tonight and do the front tomorrow.
after I pulled the whole rig up in the air I strapped it to the handle bars so it can't come back but like you said, it seemed to be staying. My bike has never had rear speakers and I bought he rear fader kit thing to install some but I am not finding where to plug that in at. everyone's got vids to Replace speakers that went bad and I can't seem to find any that say how to add speakers to the pods. Fingers crossed on all this. :0) Thanks for all your help this far with all these amazing Videos!
Wow, I’m sorry to hear that you’re going through all that, I hope going back together will be easier for you. That sucks about the side boxes, I’d be bummed for sure. Good luck with it my friend
Well, first off I just want to say thank you for the video. It has helped me amazingly! I got down to nearly the last step and had to stop because my new to me Goldwing has tow hitch framing installed and I cannot yet seem to figure out how to get the wheel out. I guess I'll get back to it but really just wanted to thank you for this video.
You’re welcome Adrian, I hope you figure out the tow hitch, I haven’t had to deal with that before. Good luck with it
@@herbiesgarage681 Well I took my time and took a few mini breaks and then finally got it done. Now it’s time to clean the splines while I wait for the grease to arrive and then put her all back together soon! Thank y out again for your videos!
@@adrianb1655 awesome, super glad that you got it done! Well done and you’re welcome!
Maybe I missed when you answered this question in the video, but why is this way better than the other method you showed us?
The only drawback to the other method, that is raising the thing as a unit is, those 2 things I mentioned. Trying to align the rear crash bar with the frame of the bags with the saddlebag on and getting the bolt started through that small hole can be difficult. And the piece that I showed that came up out of the holes in the plastic when you raise the whole thing as a unit. Because when you put it back down it doesn't always fall back into position. Neither of these are an issue if you use this method shown in this video. Honestly, I think I prefer this method, but I may use the other as well occasionally. That's why I showed both so you can do whichever you feel is best for you. Thanks for the comment!
If you have trailer hitch will have to remove it before anything else. Then follow video.
True, thank you for that!
How do you open the saddlebags if the cable is off?
BTW, Great video!
Hi Steve, if you open the trunk to each side is an access hole, if you pull the plug out then you can put your finger down the hole and push and the side bag will open. Thanks
The way to take that tire off is to put it on the center stand take the bolts out by the tag that whole rear section in the middle take the lugs off roll the tire out the back of the bike
I think you are thinking of the 1800
@@herbiesgarage681 no that's why it's sectioned off back there take that middle section apart that tire will roll right through there
@@deandreaddison7341 I did take the middle bar out and rolled the tire out. What threw me off was when you said to take the lugs off. The 1500 has an axle, the 1800 has lugs.
@@herbiesgarage681 idk what the 1500 has but I know that tire rolls out the back I've seen some guys pick the bike up to the moon I've seen one guy lay it flat on its side to change the tire
@@deandreaddison7341 yeah people have different tactics on what they think is easiest to do. The video you watched was one of two methods that I videotaped. The other one is where I completely raised the boxes as a unit and didn’t take anything off. That method is super easy and the best for doing the brakes and tire removal. Only has one drawback and that is that it has a unit that pops out of its holes in the plastic and has to be put back in. The second method, I can get wheel out in about 5 minutes or so.
gotta question, what highway pegs are you using . I have floor boards highway pegs , don't like them ...one side is stripped and moves while riding. I'm 6 feet tall.
I have floor boards for highway pegs too, I just moved them really close to me and raised them up. Works for me
Great bikes but having to remove all that bodywork, whatever task you're doing, is a real pain.
You get used to it, fortunately GL1500’s are very reliable and don’t require a lot of work on them
That is the wrong way to do it efficiently!!!
Wow.
Go watch some videos!!!
I know that you can remove less to access the rear wheel but what a good time to visually inspect the rear brake, shocks and everything while you’re there. Most of us don’t remove the rear wheel often and when you do it’s a great opportunity to inspect things. But I appreciate your opinion