Rookie mistake. When putting any bit into the tool, press it to the bottom of the collet, and then back it out about 1/8" before you tighten the lock nut. To remove it, just loosen the lock nut and bump the bit against your workbench or vise to seat it all the way into the collet. That will break the grip every time. That's the beauty of tapered tooling......it holds like a gorilla. You just gotta know the trick.
Well, at the end of the day is just bad engineering, the metals are too soft. This problem will happen if you just follow the manual and press the button and use the supplied wrench.
I just had this problem with my 3 month old Dremel 3000, returned it with the bit stuck in there. Didn't want to take it apart and void the warranty. Was going to exchange it, but they were out of the 3000. So I got the 4000. After watching this video, I"m glad I did! Thanks for pointing the better locking mechanism.
Went to the effort of disassembling the 4000 and showing us how the locking mechanism engages better and completely overlooked another important update - the spindle lock cannot be pressed down when the tool is on - you can clearly see that the on/off switch when slide into the on position locks the spindle lock button from being depressed - that is also a very good upgrade, especially with those new beefy locking pins that would cause some damage if you pressed the spindle lock during opertion.
While there is no denying the 4000 has a more robust shaft lock, this is really not an issue for most DIY types who only use the tool periodically as needed. You seem like a heavy user and you definitely should be using the stronger tool. I've had a similar version of the Dremel 3000 for years and don't have a problem with it. But, I only use it periodically in my shop. The smaller, easier to handle size of the 3000 is more important to me. Good video for those who need to know this.
Yea i got the dremel 300 (it's only got 125watt, so basically 10watt less than the 3000). I use it maybe once a year. But when i need it, it is invaluable to me. I never felt i needed more power. The reason i check this video is because the other day i used it and literally only had two accessories left from the the kit i got. I never bought any accessories for it. Basically used what did come with it. And i bought like 10 years ago LOL :D So i basically used to a handful of times over the years.
I'd disagree... at least in my experience. This was the very first issue I had with the 3000 series, and also part of the reason it eventually turned into scrap.
@@bill12690The 3000 is the first shaft improvement that Dremel made. I've had it for a good while and had no issues. The blue lock button breaking is because people are wrenching down on the collet to hard or using it as a brake while the tool is running
I once cut out the floor of a GMC truck from inside the cab with a Dremel 4000 and Ez Lock Metal cut discs, to get to the fuel pump (didn't want to drop the tank, too much hassle). They are very capable little grinders, if you are patient. The Dremel's precision was what I needed for that particular job.
Thanks for this video. It’s just answered my question as to why I can’t loosen the nut lock. On my 3000. Just keeps slipping. It’s exactly the video I needed to find. Also great to have the tool opened up so you get a clearer idea of how it works.
That got me answers on 1 of my biggest problem , had 2 Dremel 3000 both got worn out pin and the groove. I used parts from first that broke on the second one but that one broke today. The other problem with 3000 is the speed Button gives up and runs to fast not being able to lower speed. I think ill get the 4000 instead. A tip if groove and pin wears out you can drill a hole right thru were the groove is and remove button and stick a steel pin thru each time you wanna change tool
Best explanation EVER!! I really don’t care so much about which is more powerful than the other. You want loads of power, get a Dewalt or something else. These things are for intricate work and it’s more about many uses for fine detail. That wear and tear information is so critical. THANK YOU!!
I once cut out the floor of a GMC truck from inside the cab with a Dremel 4000 and Ez Lock Metal cut discs, to get to the fuel pump (didn't want to drop the tank, too much hassle). They are very capable little grinders, if you are patient.
Also, the Dremel 3000 RPM range is 5,000 to 35,000. Exactly the same as the 4000. And in most cases, velocity is more important than amps. In fact, the 3000 will accomplish the same tasks as the 4000 without all this "electronic feedback" which is basically BS like the useless "electronic feedback" on the recent electric shavers. Its a gimmick. If the Dremel motor struggles and needs more speed you can hear and feel it in real time. You don't need a computer and flashing leds. Its just a selling gimmick and markup tactic to pull prices higher. Moreover, the 3000 is lighter and slimmer since it doesn't have this gimmick to carry so the 3000 is easier to work with, more comfortable and more precise than the 4000. I cut four thick metal legs on a table three days ago with my 3000. Flawless cuts, perfectly straight. The Dremel 3000 is an awesome tool.
Also there's no reason to be "cranking down" with the forces required to cause the locking pin to slip or fail. Just press firmly on the lock and tighten with moderate torque.
I've been having that locking pin problem. I replaced it with a fresh one and was able to change the attachment twice before it broke again. Fortunately it's now stuck with the most useful tool, so I decided to use it exclusively as a cutting wheel. Whether I buy a new Dremel to replace it for other functions was hinging on whether the next model solved that problem. Looks like I'll be buying a 4000.
So crazy I'm in the market for a new Dremel so was watching videos the exact problem you're describing happened to my Dremel and I don't use it very hard.
Me too, thought about buying the 300 since it’s like 60$ but seeing the lock mechanism On the 4000 sealed the deal. There’s nothing more annoying than having a stuck tool/ disc and you can’t lock it with the button due to wear
just always make sure you are pressing the button all the way inside and holding it there while un/tightening the chuck. It is similar on more kinds of tools, this kind of locking and if you are not fully pressing the button, and it snaps few times, you end up with free shaft. Better if you could put two keys, on both - shaft and the tightening nut
also I think it's not necessary to use the wrench or the built-in "wrench" in the 3000´s housing cap to tighten the chuck. I only handtighten everything and I am usually able to loosen it with hand. Same like with angle grinders.. That way I also don´t make lot of pressure on the locking pin but it´s bonus side effect
Did they put a decent power flexible power cord on the 4000? Every Dremel i have ever had had a plastic power cord that comes out of the case all kinked and it stays that way.
Has anyone noticed that the speed/power switch is slightly erratic at lower speeds (between 2 & 4) on 3000? Mine occasionally won't even start spinning. I have to go back to "power off" and again to 2. Also, once the selector is at 2, the speed seems to change on its own over time. Not by a lot, nevertheless, it's inconsistent, and it keeps increasing on its own. It's my second Dremel. I sent the first one back for exactly that reason. Is that anyone else's experience? Thanks
When you install an accessory into the collet snug it then let it run for 20-30 seconds and it will tighten on there own. Make sure you turn the chuck slowly then make sure the button is pressed securely to remove. According to Dremel techs, most returns on the 3000 is due to operator error by being to rough on them. For example, some people press the lock down button to stop the machine from running temporarily, then release when back to operation. You can't do those things. Without damaging the shaft. I have a 3000. Never had the problems you state.
Something ive learned about speed controls (on just about everything, not just a Dremel) that operate on a knob versus a switch is once that knob wears out with time with the vibration of the tool it will start moving on you whereas a switch wont,just my experience.
Wow this comment alone helped me make up my mind. I'll be getting the 3000 lol. I'm a hobbyist so i wont need that bigger motor on the 400 anyways. But nice to know the actual switches on the 3000 will hold itself better. Thanks
@@mustbescud Wat. I understood the guy you replied to said you shouldn't use a knob. Switches are better. So 3000 loses here too as it's all in the knob.
I have the 4200 with the EZ Change system. It's the first Dremel I've owned and changing bits is quick and easy. I can't imagine having to use a wrench every time I need to switch out the bit.
well done, useful vid. thanks for posting the benefit of your experience and long usage. that can't be shortcutted. also thanks for FFWing thru the disassembly :) that way we can see it if we need to but..
Had a few 4000's & 3000's my take on this :- Older 4000's had a coupling between the armature & a short drive shaft (to the collet), that was the weak point. However looking at yr video they have now eliminated said coupling. 3000's "The other problem with 3000 is the speed Button gives up and runs to fast not being able to lower speed". Yes true, but I stripped/cleaned mine & then it worked again. Speed control tab, too strong detents make it awkward to go from 0 speed to stage 1 or 2. Poor positioning of speed tab. More vibration than I would expect.
This is the information im always looking for as a tech...... I want to see the inside because when I buy something and if it breaks Im l want to know I can repair it or rebuild it. Thanks... great video.
Amazing video, my dremel 3000 shaft lock keeps breaking ans me having to fix it. i was looking to see if 4000 model improved on that. This video was perfectly answers my question i had. Just ordered 4000 on special for cdn$100 at lowes. Thats a little more then 3000 and also most cost effective then if i keep fixing the shaft lock.
Thank you! I have the 3000 and the lock button wasted as you said, and I'm looking to buy a new one, but upset me that I didn't use much the 3000, but definitely I will no buy anything smaller of a 4000! thank you again!
Check this out. I have a 4000 with the exact same locking pin as the 3000. Your video ....On my way to Home Depot to buy a 4000 with (hoping) the better locking pin!
I bought a 3000 and the speed dial after one week only works on the lowest setting i wasn't pushing it hard i had noticed the speed was stopping from day one and i would have to re set the speed
Actually I find the separate on/off switch and speed control a big upgrade on the 4000 over the combined switch on the smaller units. Also if you are using a flex shaft then the added power of the larger motor is more noticeable due to the extra drag the flex shaft itself places on the tool. Dremel makes a good product and in all honesty in my opinion most all hand held rotary tools are best suited for light to medium work loads and the failures many experience is trying to take too light duty a tool and try to manually force their way through heavier duty task or cutting operations the tools were never designed for and then blame the failure on poor tool quality rather than the reality of a poor operator holding said tool and using it incorrectly.
I totally agree with this. Both times I burnt a dremel out it was because I didn't want to buy another tool. In both cases I could have used an oscillating multitool for what I was trying to do but when you've got drills, impact drivers, hammer drill, reciprocating saws, etc. etc. you just don't want to spring for another tool to fill another niche but sometimes you just have to.
Yeah, I was thinking about buying the 4000 series but the price was too.much for the use that I do with it.. I'm happy with the 3000 altough I would change the button in the length instead of the side action it does now.
I liked it better, when Dremel tools 🧰 used to have a rotary ON/OFF/speed control switch (knob). This allowed ANY “in between” speed (infinite speed control), not non-adjustable, “fixed speed”, as the switches on them are today. Today switches, each speed you select, is the next “graduated” motor speed. Only vintage Dremel tools 🧰 of yesteryear had infinite speed control. P.S. Do NOT lose that little collet pin 📌 it probably also has a little spring. Once these hit the floor, they’re usually lost 😞 for good 👍. If lost 😞, use a magnet 🧲. This will usually retrieve lost 😞 parts. Also, DO NOT attempt to run 🏃♀️ the Dremel tool with the collet pin 📌 depressed. This will possibility break the housing of the Dremel tool, ruin the collet pin 📌 and the spring might get lost 😞), and possibly cause motor damage. Sorry 😞 about my long comment (and the emoji’s). It’s the only practical way to express my opinion on Dremel tools 🧰. Your friend, Jeff.
I've been researching the 3000 and have read in 2 places now that if you power it down, it won't turn back on for an hour. Is that true? Does the 4000 (or any other model) also do that? Asking because this would be a big problem for the way I work.
This came up in my feed. I run a Foredom TX as a daily driver and also have a SR, along with other flexshafts. Handheld rotary tools just don't have any torque. If a given application relies on attachments that spin below 15K RPM, I'd suggest that even the most modest flexshaft is a significant upgrade. A HFT flexshaft with a Foredom pedal is about $100. Can't see spending that on a torqueless wonder. Good luck.
The 4000 looks better but for what im going to do with it considering the 4000 is pretty much twice the price with less acessories I think the 3000 will do the job just fine! I also like the fact that it is a bit smaller (I mainly want it to cutt stuff in tiny spaces and maybe try wood carving so smaller is better)
I like your bleeper blooper ending. Also the video was help full since the 4000 has such a big shaft loc compaired to the wimpy ass pin on the 3000. I to will never buy anything smaller than a 4000.
had 2 dremels and both had the same problem,...now i will go for the 4000, seems much stronger,....after all thats what the companies want , by much expensive tools ,
my old model 398 digital professional still running strong, the new dremel models aren't much better and personally think the grey plastic bodies look cheap
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing. But how did you know there is such a difference between the Dremel 3000 and 4000? Is it in the specs? What is the price difference? For Dremel it shouldn't be a problem to use the same system in the 3000 as well. Higher costs maybe 1 US dollar. But why should they do it, if they can offer in the new 4000 more bells and whistles nearly nobody needs, for much more money? It's a big plus that the tools are possible to open, but if you can't buy spare parts, it's quite useless. Thumbs down for Dremel. Thumbs up for you.
The specs don't mention the difference in the locking mechanism. I noticed the difference after breaking that mechanism on a couple of 3000s. I bought a 4000 and was curious to see if it was the same. The Dremel 3000 costs about $60 and the 4000 is about $90.
@@Makify1 How much use did you got out of the 3000's before the mechanism broke? I'm just wondering if it's still a good option if I'm gonna use the 3000 only occasionally. Also, how is the mechanism on the battery powered 8220?
Основных отличий два - более высокая мощность у 4000, и отдельный регулятор оборотов. Константная электроника у 4000 тоже неплоха, но не столь важна, как остальное.
fugg dremel, selling the tool with 15/25 pieces much higher prices than other brands. literally you can have over 200-300 pieces with tool much cheaper than dremel.
If it lasts 3 times as long? ...then the actual price per use is 75%. You heard him mention how many 3000s he's gone through right? I mean, if you're using it 3 times a year, maybe go with the 3000..
@Mike Byrne alright, did my google search again. Stil the 4000 is almost exactly twice the price; the 3000 for 46 euros and the 4000 for 90 euros (both on conrad.nl)
Winand D there's like $30 difference so you that much of a tight ass and you heard him say how much he been through I've been through one 3000 as well same problem
wow you must abuse the crap out of your dremel .I have used mine to grind welds .jammed it in a pin hole so tight I had to use a hammer and nail to get it out . My dremel is almost 30 years old . The lock button froze due to rust . "left the window open on the shed ,dew then rain and not using it for 6 months . Never have I had that button not hold .You have to be doing something wrong .
A non issue with a collet tool. The 3000 lock is plenty for the application, the 4000 is over engineered for ham fisted people who tighten things too much.
Rookie mistake. When putting any bit into the tool, press it to the bottom of the collet, and then back it out about 1/8" before you tighten the lock nut. To remove it, just loosen the lock nut and bump the bit against your workbench or vise to seat it all the way into the collet. That will break the grip every time. That's the beauty of tapered tooling......it holds like a gorilla. You just gotta know the trick.
sorry, can you rewrite it with other words? I do not speak well English
@@woodenheart3494 A "gorilla" is a very large member of the ape community.
Well, at the end of the day is just bad engineering, the metals are too soft. This problem will happen if you just follow the manual and press the button and use the supplied wrench.
@@user-sk4nt5bm5r It happens even with tool steel.....that's just the nature of machine tapers. Your drill press works the same way.
That Information! SHOULD BE ! in the Instructor Manual ! So l don't know ! How ! Your ROOKIE Factor ! Comes about ! Here !
I just had this problem with my 3 month old Dremel 3000, returned it with the bit stuck in there. Didn't want to take it apart and void the warranty. Was going to exchange it, but they were out of the 3000. So I got the 4000. After watching this video, I"m glad I did! Thanks for pointing the better locking mechanism.
Went to the effort of disassembling the 4000 and showing us how the locking mechanism engages better and completely overlooked another important update - the spindle lock cannot be pressed down when the tool is on - you can clearly see that the on/off switch when slide into the on position locks the spindle lock button from being depressed - that is also a very good upgrade, especially with those new beefy locking pins that would cause some damage if you pressed the spindle lock during opertion.
While there is no denying the 4000 has a more robust shaft lock, this is really not an issue for most DIY types who only use the tool periodically as needed. You seem like a heavy user and you definitely should be using the stronger tool. I've had a similar version of the Dremel 3000 for years and don't have a problem with it. But, I only use it periodically in my shop. The smaller, easier to handle size of the 3000 is more important to me. Good video for those who need to know this.
Thank you that’s the same thing I was telling myself. My 3000 has been good to me and my Hot wheels are easy to customize with the 3000.
Thank for sharing that, I was wondering that exact thing.
Yea i got the dremel 300 (it's only got 125watt, so basically 10watt less than the 3000). I use it maybe once a year. But when i need it, it is invaluable to me. I never felt i needed more power.
The reason i check this video is because the other day i used it and literally only had two accessories left from the the kit i got. I never bought any accessories for it. Basically used what did come with it. And i bought like 10 years ago LOL :D So i basically used to a handful of times over the years.
I'd disagree... at least in my experience. This was the very first issue I had with the 3000 series, and also part of the reason it eventually turned into scrap.
@@bill12690The 3000 is the first shaft improvement that Dremel made. I've had it for a good while and had no issues. The blue lock button breaking is because people are wrenching down on the collet to hard or using it as a brake while the tool is running
I once cut out the floor of a GMC truck from inside the cab with a Dremel 4000 and Ez Lock Metal cut discs, to get to the fuel pump (didn't want to drop the tank, too much hassle). They are very capable little grinders, if you are patient. The Dremel's precision was what I needed for that particular job.
Thanks for this video. It’s just answered my question as to why I can’t loosen the nut lock. On my 3000. Just keeps slipping. It’s exactly the video I needed to find. Also great to have the tool opened up so you get a clearer idea of how it works.
my dremel 3000 also broke, that pin just wore off like nothing after a little heavy use.
So worth it getting the 4000 instead just for that.
The bearing is much closer to the collet on the 4000. This will reduce wobble even more.
Thank you for the review!
Yeah I was just about to say that's a much bigger issue with a rotary tool that you expect to use with side loading.
That got me answers on 1 of my biggest problem , had 2 Dremel 3000 both got worn out pin and the groove. I used parts from first that broke on the second one but that one broke today.
The other problem with 3000 is the speed Button gives up and runs to fast not being able to lower speed.
I think ill get the 4000 instead.
A tip if groove and pin wears out you can drill a hole right thru were the groove is and remove button and stick a steel pin thru each time you wanna change tool
Best explanation EVER!! I really don’t care so much about which is more powerful than the other. You want loads of power, get a Dewalt or something else. These things are for intricate work and it’s more about many uses for fine detail.
That wear and tear information is so critical.
THANK YOU!!
I once cut out the floor of a GMC truck from inside the cab with a Dremel 4000 and Ez Lock Metal cut discs, to get to the fuel pump (didn't want to drop the tank, too much hassle). They are very capable little grinders, if you are patient.
Also, the Dremel 3000 RPM range is 5,000 to 35,000. Exactly the same as the 4000. And in most cases, velocity is more important than amps. In fact, the 3000 will accomplish the same tasks as the 4000 without all this "electronic feedback" which is basically BS like the useless "electronic feedback" on the recent electric shavers. Its a gimmick. If the Dremel motor struggles and needs more speed you can hear and feel it in real time. You don't need a computer and flashing leds. Its just a selling gimmick and markup tactic to pull prices higher. Moreover, the 3000 is lighter and slimmer since it doesn't have this gimmick to carry so the 3000 is easier to work with, more comfortable and more precise than the 4000. I cut four thick metal legs on a table three days ago with my 3000. Flawless cuts, perfectly straight. The Dremel 3000 is an awesome tool.
Also there's no reason to be "cranking down" with the forces required to cause the locking pin to slip or fail. Just press firmly on the lock and tighten with moderate torque.
good video. no need for me to worry about because I use a Dremel flex shaft. thanks for the info.
I've been having that locking pin problem. I replaced it with a fresh one and was able to change the attachment twice before it broke again. Fortunately it's now stuck with the most useful tool, so I decided to use it exclusively as a cutting wheel. Whether I buy a new Dremel to replace it for other functions was hinging on whether the next model solved that problem. Looks like I'll be buying a 4000.
So crazy I'm in the market for a new Dremel so was watching videos the exact problem you're describing happened to my Dremel and I don't use it very hard.
You sold me on that locking mechanism. Thanks mate
Me too, thought about buying the 300 since it’s like 60$ but seeing the lock mechanism On the 4000 sealed the deal. There’s nothing more annoying than having a stuck tool/ disc and you can’t lock it with the button due to wear
just always make sure you are pressing the button all the way inside and holding it there while un/tightening the chuck. It is similar on more kinds of tools, this kind of locking and if you are not fully pressing the button, and it snaps few times, you end up with free shaft. Better if you could put two keys, on both - shaft and the tightening nut
Another reason button breaks is because people use it for a "Brake while tool is running to stop the bit collet.
also I think it's not necessary to use the wrench or the built-in "wrench" in the 3000´s housing cap to tighten the chuck. I only handtighten everything and I am usually able to loosen it with hand. Same like with angle grinders.. That way I also don´t make lot of pressure on the locking pin but it´s bonus side effect
Did they put a decent power flexible power cord on the 4000? Every Dremel i have ever had had a plastic power cord that comes out of the case all kinked and it stays that way.
Thank you for showing the difference between the two models.
Has anyone noticed that the speed/power switch is slightly erratic at lower speeds (between 2 & 4) on 3000? Mine occasionally won't even start spinning. I have to go back to "power off" and again to 2. Also, once the selector is at 2, the speed seems to change on its own over time. Not by a lot, nevertheless, it's inconsistent, and it keeps increasing on its own. It's my second Dremel. I sent the first one back for exactly that reason. Is that anyone else's experience? Thanks
When you install an accessory into the collet snug it then let it run for 20-30 seconds and it will tighten on there own. Make sure you turn the chuck slowly then make sure the button is pressed securely to remove. According to Dremel techs, most returns on the 3000 is due to operator error by being to rough on them. For example, some people press the lock down button to stop the machine from running temporarily, then release when back to operation. You can't do those things. Without damaging the shaft. I have a 3000. Never had the problems you state.
Just picked up the 4000 kit for $89.00 on Amazon..........sounds like a good machine at a great price.
Something ive learned about speed controls (on just about everything, not just a Dremel) that operate on a knob versus a switch is once that knob wears out with time with the vibration of the tool it will start moving on you whereas a switch wont,just my experience.
Wow this comment alone helped me make up my mind. I'll be getting the 3000 lol. I'm a hobbyist so i wont need that bigger motor on the 400 anyways. But nice to know the actual switches on the 3000 will hold itself better. Thanks
@@mustbescud Wat. I understood the guy you replied to said you shouldn't use a knob. Switches are better. So 3000 loses here too as it's all in the knob.
Great Video! I have been looking at the 3000 and my wife bought me the 4000 for Christmas.
Glad to know I got the better unit. :)
U really shouldn't refer to ur wife as a "unit", even if she is "better". 😂 😉 😊
I have the 4200 with the EZ Change system. It's the first Dremel I've owned and changing bits is quick and easy. I can't imagine having to use a wrench every time I need to switch out the bit.
I have a few EZ Change tools and I agree, it's super convenient. Unfortunately, there are some bits I use regularly that don't come in EX Change form.
4200 has a rep for overheating and fritzing out tho.
Just use mendrel 4486 compatible with 3000 et +
@@KoSLoW27 what’s that mean ?
well done, useful vid. thanks for posting the benefit of your experience and long usage. that can't be shortcutted.
also thanks for FFWing thru the disassembly :) that way we can see it if we need to but..
I wonder if there are times when the bigger size and weight make it harder to get to the work?
I am in the market for a Dremmel-this helps alot! Thank you!
Had a few 4000's & 3000's my take on this :-
Older 4000's had a coupling between the armature & a short drive shaft (to the collet), that was the weak point. However
looking at yr video they have now eliminated said coupling.
3000's
"The other problem with 3000 is the speed Button gives up and runs to fast not being able to lower speed".
Yes true, but I stripped/cleaned mine & then it worked again.
Speed control tab, too strong detents make it awkward to go from 0 speed to stage 1 or 2.
Poor positioning of speed tab.
More vibration than I would expect.
Aaand I'm now taking my recently purchased 3000 back after watching this. Thank you! Great video 👍
Thanks for that info 👍
Wished I had bought the 4000. Now I know about the collar lock I’ll be a little more careful.
Awesome video and helped me decide which model to buy.
This is the information im always looking for as a tech...... I want to see the inside because when I buy something and if it breaks Im l want to know I can repair it or rebuild it. Thanks... great video.
Amazing video, my dremel 3000 shaft lock keeps breaking ans me having to fix it. i was looking to see if 4000 model improved on that. This video was perfectly answers my question i had. Just ordered 4000 on special for cdn$100 at lowes. Thats a little more then 3000 and also most cost effective then if i keep fixing the shaft lock.
Before ! You know it ! The Six thousand ! Will be OUT ! Just like last and this year's ! Car Sales !
this helped me alot. the outtakes at the end were hilarious too buddy!
Just press firmly on the lock button. The locking effect is Down not Sideways when you press the button correctly.
Do they come with the extension
Hi Makify, long time you don't make any video. Come back soon ☺
Thank you! I have the 3000 and the lock button wasted as you said, and I'm looking to buy a new one, but upset me that I didn't use much the 3000, but definitely I will no buy anything smaller of a 4000! thank you again!
That was just what I needed to know, much appreciated 👍
super helpful video thank you! ill be getting a 4000 series!
Thanks that was great video!!? So good to see inside!
Check this out. I have a 4000 with the exact same locking pin as the 3000. Your video ....On my way to Home Depot to buy a 4000 with (hoping) the better locking pin!
I bought a 3000 and the speed dial after one week only works on the lowest setting i wasn't pushing it hard i had noticed the speed was stopping from day one and i would have to re set the speed
Please, open the Dremel 7760 cordless LITE
I have one 3000 one 4000 and a cordless dremel and I love each one
Actually I find the separate on/off switch and speed control a big upgrade on the 4000 over the combined switch on the smaller units. Also if you are using a flex shaft then the added power of the larger motor is more noticeable due to the extra drag the flex shaft itself places on the tool.
Dremel makes a good product and in all honesty in my opinion most all hand held rotary tools are best suited for light to medium work loads and the failures many experience is trying to take too light duty a tool and try to manually force their way through heavier duty task or cutting operations the tools were never designed for and then blame the failure on poor tool quality rather than the reality of a poor operator holding said tool and using it incorrectly.
what? pilot error?! hesh yr mouth
I totally agree with this. Both times I burnt a dremel out it was because I didn't want to buy another tool. In both cases I could have used an oscillating multitool for what I was trying to do but when you've got drills, impact drivers, hammer drill, reciprocating saws, etc. etc. you just don't want to spring for another tool to fill another niche but sometimes you just have to.
Yeah, I was thinking about buying the 4000 series but the price was too.much for the use that I do with it.. I'm happy with the 3000 altough I would change the button in the length instead of the side action it does now.
very helpful thank you for the information.
do you know if i can convert lets say the 4000 from 110v and make it so i can use it with a 220v?
I liked it better, when Dremel tools 🧰 used to have a rotary ON/OFF/speed control switch (knob). This allowed ANY “in between” speed (infinite speed control), not non-adjustable, “fixed speed”, as the switches on them are today. Today switches, each speed you select, is the next “graduated” motor speed. Only vintage Dremel tools 🧰 of yesteryear had infinite speed control. P.S. Do NOT lose that little collet pin 📌 it probably also has a little spring. Once these hit the floor, they’re usually lost 😞 for good 👍. If lost 😞, use a magnet 🧲. This will usually retrieve lost 😞 parts. Also, DO NOT attempt to run 🏃♀️ the Dremel tool with the collet pin 📌 depressed. This will possibility break the housing of the Dremel tool, ruin the collet pin 📌 and the spring might get lost 😞), and possibly cause motor damage. Sorry 😞 about my long comment (and the emoji’s). It’s the only practical way to express my opinion on Dremel tools 🧰. Your friend, Jeff.
I've been researching the 3000 and have read in 2 places now that if you power it down, it won't turn back on for an hour. Is that true? Does the 4000 (or any other model) also do that? Asking because this would be a big problem for the way I work.
don't think so. my school has a 4000 which i have used multiple times and that has not happened to me.
Do make more videos please! Thank you!
Very helpful ..thanks!
You forgot to mention that the 3000 wont take a 1/4 " bit only the 1/8 bit, where as the 4000 will take both 1/8 & the 1/4"
THAT is a very important point. Very annoying when a 3/16 shaft won't fit...
Actually the 4000 manual makes no mention of a 1/4" collett option. I just emailed Dremel asking if they'd be coming out with 1/4 inch rotary tools.
I have 4000 but was able to get the 3000 from walmart for 18 bucks. Figure for the assortment alone it's worth it.
so 3000 bits fit the 4000?
GREAT VIDEO!!!!! I WILL GET THE DREMEL 4K!!!!
Thanks this was helpful!
Love the review! So informative!
This came up in my feed. I run a Foredom TX as a daily driver and also have a SR, along with other flexshafts. Handheld rotary tools just don't have any torque. If a given application relies on attachments that spin below 15K RPM, I'd suggest that even the most modest flexshaft is a significant upgrade. A HFT flexshaft with a Foredom pedal is about $100. Can't see spending that on a torqueless wonder. Good luck.
I've been working on my dremel 3000 for three years, its really great and definitely worth the money
The 4000 looks better but for what im going to do with it considering the 4000 is pretty much twice the price with less acessories I think the 3000 will do the job just fine! I also like the fact that it is a bit smaller (I mainly want it to cutt stuff in tiny spaces and maybe try wood carving so smaller is better)
@@LowkeyAirgunner yes indeed, the small size of it gives it a head start, really love it that I have two of it 🤣
@@mr.9workshop492 looks like a usefull tool for sure! I will get one soon
@@LowkeyAirgunner you will not regret it believe me.
that’s good to know as i’m still keen on the 3000 for what i’m gonna use it for!
I broke that pin on a cordless years ago. Definitely going to a 4000.
I like your bleeper blooper ending.
Also the video was help full since the 4000 has such a big shaft loc compaired to the wimpy ass pin on the 3000. I to will never buy anything smaller than a 4000.
Thank you so much for the teardown!
thanks for sharing :)
I'm sitting here with my dinky 200. There's nothing else in the world like a Dremel tool, and I'd love it if everyone had one.
If that button ever wears out just remove it from the tool and use a small allen key instead. You dont need a brand new tool this is dumb
had 2 dremels and both had the same problem,...now i will go for the 4000, seems much stronger,....after all thats what the companies want , by much expensive tools ,
You can just slice the sticker down the seam line of the chassis.
My 3000 broke after 2 months. I'm returning it under warranty and getting the 4000.
The push lock is the most important thing .
Agreed. That is convincing
Great video 📹
That is quite the difference between the two units, I definitely will give a pass on the 3000 thanks to your video, good job on your part
Somebody that to take them apart.
The 4000 has a changeable, non soldered thermal fuse too.
I've had my original Dremel about 30 years. Never had the locking issue. But the motor is starting to give out.
With any tool treat with respect
Thanks. This is what happened to my 3000.
Well, for cnc routing, precision hole making thru 19mm or 25mm MDF Dremel 4000 wirks much, much better than 3000.
Do they have reverse yet?!?!
Stupid things spin the wrong way for right hand use.
Thanks!
Haha, you dont have to take the stickers off and ruin them, just use a razorblade and cut them in two 😊
Unfortunately Bosch has a very poor product support in India. I can't even get collects here!
Collets
my old model 398 digital professional still running strong, the new dremel models aren't much better and personally think the grey plastic bodies look cheap
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing. But how did you know there is such a difference between the Dremel 3000 and 4000? Is it in the specs?
What is the price difference? For Dremel it shouldn't be a problem to use the same system in the 3000 as well. Higher costs maybe 1 US dollar.
But why should they do it, if they can offer in the new 4000 more bells and whistles nearly nobody needs, for much more money?
It's a big plus that the tools are possible to open, but if you can't buy spare parts, it's quite useless. Thumbs down for Dremel. Thumbs up for you.
The specs don't mention the difference in the locking mechanism. I noticed the difference after breaking that mechanism on a couple of 3000s. I bought a 4000 and was curious to see if it was the same. The Dremel 3000 costs about $60 and the 4000 is about $90.
@@Makify1 How much use did you got out of the 3000's before the mechanism broke? I'm just wondering if it's still a good option if I'm gonna use the 3000 only occasionally. Also, how is the mechanism on the battery powered 8220?
Thanks god bless
Основных отличий два - более высокая мощность у 4000, и отдельный регулятор оборотов. Константная электроника у 4000 тоже неплоха, но не столь важна, как остальное.
7:27 skookum ... AvE would approve! :D
4L59 time stamp 's sounds like a Mandela effect.
fugg dremel, selling the tool with 15/25 pieces much higher prices than other brands. literally you can have over 200-300 pieces with tool much cheaper than dremel.
Just sent an order for a 4000 on good advice.
also. cos I bought my first Dremel in 1980-84
And it still is running well
That old saying they don't make them like they used I bet that old one built better than any of them on the market today
this is great - could have been done in 120 seconds.
So is the 4000 worth the 200% price tag? I don't think so..
If it lasts 3 times as long? ...then the actual price per use is 75%. You heard him mention how many 3000s he's gone through right?
I mean, if you're using it 3 times a year, maybe go with the 3000..
@Mike Byrne alright, did my google search again. Stil the 4000 is almost exactly twice the price;
the 3000 for 46 euros and the 4000 for 90 euros (both on conrad.nl)
Winand D there's like $30 difference so you that much of a tight ass and you heard him say how much he been through I've been through one 3000 as well same problem
@@elimackinnon8455 Please show me where you've found a price difference of $30
Great devil video thanks.
wow you must abuse the crap out of your dremel .I have used mine to grind welds .jammed it in a pin hole so tight I had to use a hammer and nail to get it out . My dremel is almost 30 years old . The lock button froze due to rust . "left the window open on the shed ,dew then rain and not using it for 6 months . Never have I had that button not hold .You have to be doing something wrong .
A non issue with a collet tool. The 3000 lock is plenty for the application, the 4000 is over engineered for ham fisted people who tighten things too much.
locking pin its small because this is not 2kw drill mate for what you need tight this more ? this is 98% the same product only motor its bigger :/ omg
Good
This was a useless video. 😢
Thanks for the info. The bloopers were just top👌