Now, this is how a YT video should be. Straight to the point, without any fillers such as, "I'll show you now", "later in the video" and so on. Great job mate.
I've been using a rotary tool for over 25 years in my art business, engraving glass and metal, and power carving wood. There are many bits that I've never used and you did a great job explaining them. About a year ago I used the serrated saw blade to cut a small section of paneling from a wall. I accidentally struck a nail and the shaft bent at a 90° angle and dislodged from the collet at high speed. It struck me in the collar bone area and caused a small cut. Thankfully I was wearing a thick shirt or the cut would have been much worse. A couple of inches higher and it would have struck my exposed neck. These blades can potentially be VERY dangerous. Thanks for a great, well explained video.
I'm curious to the best way to cut thick high carbon metal with a rotary tool and seek your opinion on rhe best way to cuts small and tight spots with which bits. I prefer speed and durability most.
I had that happen to me. The shaft bent and I threw the whole Dremel before anything could fly off at me. Ran and unplugged. I've never used the others in the pack and gave that Dremel away.
Remember not to use diamond bits on metal. The diamonds can get stuck in metal and get ripped out of the bit. Diamond bits are for stone, glass, and ceramics.
@@evilsharkey8954 😂🤦♂relax, Mr. Know It All. Metal can be drilled, cut, ground and sharpened with a diamond. Unless, of course, you have the knowledge and experience.
I made a set of red oak grips for my pistol using my Dremel, and whenever people see and feel it, they're surprised by the quality, because of the memes of kitchen table gunsmiths Bubba-ing stuff with a Dremel, looking like crap. I found the best way to work is to hang the tool from the ceiling, and have that flexible extension thing come down that lets you use it like a pen. Also helps to have super steady hands. My shop teacher called me "the human jig," because I could make a series of unguided cuts that almost look machined. Obviously a real jig is better for precision work, but when you're just doing creative/artsy stuff, free-hand is deeply satisfying. It's like a meditation, because you have to lower your heart rate, control your breathing, and clear your mind of distractions. It's just you, your tool, and the material. Even if you're not that creative, I recommend people try it anyway. There's something deeply satisfying about having something tangible you created after a few hours of "meditation." Something that will last, and can be of heirloom quality. It's a part of you that will exist long after you're dead, and a skill set you can pass on to a new generation.
@@rotarycrafts8760 Give the screw on the disc thingy a bit of fine sanding, and it won't damage things as much, when you end up touching you whatever with it.
@@rotarycrafts8760 Don't use the serated blade free hand. Clamp up the machine, and make some kind of stationary table, so you don't chop off usefull body parts such as fingers.
Thank you so much! I’ve had a hard time finding a comprehensive video that really explains each rotary tool bit, and I especially appreciate the short video demonstrations!
@@rotarycrafts8760 I would like a good explanation of the differences between the four or five main types of aluminum oxide grinding stone-pink, white, brown, orange, etc. the physical differences, how those differences e ffect the performance on various materials, and how those properties effect the appropriate selection. I am struggling with finding a good but concise explanation that will allow me to most appropriately select which type of aluminum oxide grinding stone I use for each specific project. I tend to use the white ones on very hard materials such as carbon steel or cast iron and ductile iron because they seem to have good friability and remain effective even after using for several minutes, but they also seem to wear down faster than some of the the others. When it comes to softer metals, should I be using the pink or the orange aluminum oxide instead? And maybe even some comparison to silicone carbide grinding stones might be nice. If you could consider expanding on those topics in a future video please. I love using my rotary tool but I don’t think it’s always the best idea to spend more time and money on learning through experimentation when the information is already out there. Cheers!
Tip, also, DO NOT use your sanding drums 🪘 at full speed. They will not hold together at 30.000 RPM. Wear a face shield 🛡️. It will protect your eyes 👀 and face from debris (such as flying wires), such as if a grinding wheel 🛞 decides to disintegrate. Again, your friend, Jeff.
I found the metal brush ideal for shaping foam; it wears down very quickly and safety goggles+good aeration is definitely required; but few tools allow that kind of precision and smoothness on such a soft material
Note that the collets shown at 0:23 have rings or grooves around them to identify the internal diameter (bit size that fits). IIRC, zero rings = 1/32, 1 ring = 1/16, 2 rings = 3/32 and 3 rings = 1/8". Something like that!
Finally a decently detailed and well demonstrated video on all those bits... and pieces, which doesn't take one forever to watch. I get so easily distracted and confused if they're too long. 😔 Many thanks!
I am convinced that the small cutting discs have to be for something else that we all haven't figured out yet. The fibrous cut off wheels are fantastic and I never ever have problems using them unless it is either trying to get into a very tight space or using it enough that it wears too small to be effective. I've used these things to cut a section of a metal header for a wall that had a passage cut into it after the fact which the contractor left unfinished because he thought it was only temporary. Went through it like butter!
I prefer the smaller ones. They cut so much faster in my experience. The bigger discs feel like you're carving away at things with a butter knife. The key is to hold things very steady, brace the tool against your body or whatever else is close and you'll have much fewer broken discs. It still happens, sure, but much less so than if you're just holding it in one hand without bracing it.
@@rotarycrafts8760 i have many of these type (dremel) , i have 1 minicraft that is a little smaller and lighter for low rpm and highTQ, and the big one from lidl, with 500w, it is same size as angle grinder and all of them i hold as pen , even angle grinder i hold with one hand, mostly for gearbox
Here I leave my thanks for the elementary explanation about the functions and nomenclature of the Bits that we use in machines like the Dremmel. Although I haven't fully looked for this type of explanation elsewhere, I did happen to stumble upon your video on this subject, which I was pleased with. Thank you very much.
This was amazing and helpful! I like that you have examples of their use as you’re talking about them as well as the pros and cons. Informative and concise. Thank you!
this is a great video! a tip for metal cutting wheels: they work best if you go slowly with them and don't push them into the material very hard. it makes them last longer and risks breaking them less! just move them back and forth with gentle preessure against what you're cutting, with many light passes over the line you're cutting.
Good tips-use gentle pressure and multiple passes. I would add-cut with the outer 1/4-1/3 of the wheel. If you need to make a deeper cut, then use a larger diameter wheel. Usually the wheel snaps off when trying to cut too deep and the wheel binds. Wear eye protection.
Thank you so much for making this video, especially as you made it without annoying music that drowns out the voice. I just bought one and had no idea what to do with all the bits.
The handpiece extension is the one thing, i would not live without. I also upgraded to a not Dremel but compatible 400W main unit. This makes a huge difference.
Thank you for going through all these. I am learning about my Dremel but have a hard time finding videos that give purpose as well as pros and cons for each tip. Really glad to know I’m not the only one who breaks those stupid cut off wheels so easily! 😊🦋
I just wanted to say Hi! from South Carolina on the east coast of the US. I'm about 50% Norwegian so that is why I left this. This was very informative. I just got an off brand Dremel so was curious as to the bits. I learned lot from this, so thank you for sharing!!!
@@bluesnowbelle7625 put super glue along the brush where is meets the wheel. Let it dry. Then when using the brush the small pieces of wire doesn’t come flying out in to my eyes. I saw a video on it. Good luck.
The 402 mandrels changed the whole game IMO. They have some flexible abrasive wheels that are superior to anything else I have used in the past for cleaning metal. Expensive though and they wear out fast. The large cutting discs are the way to go with the 402 mandrels. At some point because of the high-speed nature of the tool, you need to take it apart and clean everything inside. Buy only the Dremels with ball bearings. When you force the motor to continuously slow down from loading, you're wearing it out. It's strictly a hobby tool. For serious work, spend the money and buy Foredom. Using the metal brushes, I found that if you don't exceed 'half throttle', they don't shed as much. Been using Dremels since the '60s. They started out with bronze bushings and eventually went to ball bearings....game changers for longevity. You can go into the ball bearings, clean & regrease them but that's beyond the bounds of most owners.
Good general info here. Perfect for a beginner to learn what bit to use for a particular application. You can't go wrong with a Dremel (or rotary tool in general). It's a MUST have for almost everyone. It does so much for the little money it costs. For around $100 you can get a whole kit with just about every bit you need, with the exception of specialty bits. And if you want to go with a non-Dremel brand tool and bits, you can cut that price down almost in half these days. I used to have a Craftsman rotary tool which was pretty much a Dremel clone that worked for 10 years before I worked it to death. However, I do also recommend Dremel brand tools and bits, as stated in this video. They are very good and solid for the price.
That's quite debatable. If you're doing anything larger and work with metals, well Dremels are essentially toys. Plus you can replace most of the tools with conventional tools. Like those cutting discs for metal are hilarious shiit. You can do 100x more with normal hacksaw. For woodworkers I'd say it's quite nice tool. Plus obviously model working etc. that needs fine tools.
I am in the opposite boat. Had mine for 10ish years and only used it for rounding off trimmed dog's nails. Now I feel like I can use it for so much more.
Excellent video. We've needed a good explanation of rotary bits & you have provided it. In using the grinder bit, it can fill very quickly on metals like brass, as yours did in the demonstration. If one goes slowly & touches the bit often to a piece of blackboard chalk, the bit cuts cleaner & doesn't plug up so quickly. Anytime one uses abrasives a dust mask is an imperative. Diamond wheels, for instance, will shed diamond dust as the particles loose purchase from whatever mastic the manufacturer uses, & take up permanent residence in your lungs. They are unwelcome tenants.... Again, very valuable video & I thank you for presenting it. Well done, Sir!
Great presentation! Thorough but not overwhelming. I like the examples of the different bit in use. I appreciate the honesty of admitting when there isn’t a lot of experience using a specific bit. Well done!
Oh my God! Thank you so much this video is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't think it would be so hard to find somebody to explain to me what each Dremel bit does. Again thank you for sharing your lifesaver.❤
I’ve watched several videos on Dremo, and this is the first one that I actually had on the screen the number of the bit that we were talking about. Bravo excellent freaking video now subscribed!
Hey! This was way more informative than I had hoped! Excellent video! Thanks so much! Yeah, that serrated saw blade one - that's much better if you have the Flex Shaft attachment - using that, and securing the operative end to a makeshift platform, you pretty much make a tiny table-saw for it - THAT works great - it allows the working end to be securely fixed to a working surface, while you move the material across the surface with the blade cutting through, as would happen on a regular table-saw, only in Dremel size! 😉👍
Thank you soooo much for your detailed use of the dremel bits. I have had my Dremel for a few years now and only used it for sanding and polishing because I wasn’t sure on how to use the other bits. Thank you very much.🙏🙏🙏
My ol' man ( may he rest in peace) LOVED the dremel tool. He had 3 or 4 of them & probably every bit they ever made. He gave me one as a xmas gift. I tried it but I just wasnt feeling it so it sat in its case under my bench for a couple of decades. I think I threw it away. !
This is the thing that should be on the packaging or at least easily found for anyone that need to know. My experience with tools in general is that the makers somehow believe that every customer know it all in advance, and how can anyone when there is a first time for everything. Of course you can test your heart out of these bits and come to some conclusion, but to my experience you end up braking more gear than you have to just because of the inexperience and wrong use of things. It's hard to know the limit of something when you have no prior experience, and this is where you just need to break something before you know. This is why it would help so much to at least know what ballpark you're dealing with.
Thanks for the great explanation. My Dremel came with 0 directions, and I have not gotten much use out of it as a result. Your video however has filled in many gaps in my knowledge of this amazing tool that I know I can take better advantage of. Your information is presented in a great fashion with thoroughly thought-out explanations and demonstrations. Thanks again for a fantastic video. You just got a new subscriber.
Best Dremel bit explanation I have seen - and I have seen many!!! Great job! To the point and well illustrated too - makes it really clear and usefull!!!
Incredible! I really appreciate you taking the time to review Dremel bits and providing useful opinions about so many of them. I must admit that some of the bits have been a mystery to me. Thank you so much.
The thin cut ez disc came apart when I tried to cut through a 1/16th inch thick piece of metal! (like the center metal ez connector came apart from the cutting disc part) So don't use them on metal or else they just fall apart. But the green METAL ez disc cut through the metal pretty well. Whenever I use disc cutters of any kind with the dremel, I always stand perpendicular to the spinning disc. You should imagine the disc as an infinite plane that you should never intersect with! And also keep your chest and face back as far as possible!
Just wanted to thank you for this video... brilliant explanation with examples, and the additional advice based on your experience with certain bits is really helpful. I got my dremel a couple of days ago and have been struggling to find good advice like this as I'm new to DIY and powertools. I'm looking forward to watching your other videos! ❤
I’m new in this equipment to do a wood carving work. Your introduction on the type and function of the bits is a great resource and help in my understanding and experience in the craft I want to learn. Thank you so much. Blessings
Really informative! Not just what they're used for, but what else they could be used for. It's really started to help me make sense of the dizzying array of pieces that came in the accessories kit 🙂
Although the small cutting discs are, as you showed, brittle, if you take your time and use a light touch, they will only rarely break. The advantage of the small over the large, much stronger cutting disc is the cost: small discs can be purchased in quantity for very little money, but the large disc is expensive. Good video!
Yeah. They big ones can be a little bit expensive if you do alot of cutting. I'll give the small ones another chance, maybe I can improve my technique a little. Thanks for watching :)
The grinding bits are also good for shaping foam for making props and costumes--can achieve a reasonable amount of detail. I haven't noticed mine become smooth, but no doubt that's a risk.
Thanks for the video. I'm so glad I watched this. You helped me so much, as I'm about to start some wood projects, that in part involves some carving. I was glad to learn of the aluminum cut bits (better for wood, which I did not know, & is HUGE for me), vs the double cut carbide bits (better for metal). I just bought the wrong bits for wood, but thankfully it is still in the mail & free returns. Or maybe I'll hang on to it for metal. And I was so glad to see you use the tile cutting bit on wood. I have that bit; so now I know another good way to use it. (It is also good for carving fast into mini plaster figure sculptures, ala Michelangelo inspired). I saw this at just the right time, after praying for wisdom in tool selection! Wow. The perfect advice keeps finding me at the right minute.
The thin, small diameter carbide or carbondum cutting disks actually come in two different thicknesses. I don't recall the part numbers of each, but the thinner ones are definitely quite fragile. The thinner wheels are faster for cutting small items because you don't have to remove as much material due to the thinness of the wheel, but they can't take any excessive pressure or sideways force. The thicker ones are a little tougher to cut some things with because they cut a thicker groove and remove more material. I use both of these all the time but they do require a light touch. They are excellent for operations such as shortening, or deburring the ends of, very tiny screws and bolts.
When cutting plastics such as acrylics/ perspex with the Ez476 cutting disc 10:17, paraffin/kerosene can be used as a lubricant to prevent the plastic getting too hot and melting/sticking. It works for Hegners/ fret saws/scroll saws and band saws as well.
There are 2 “cutting disks” which use the #402 mandrel. The disk demonstrated in your video is indeed very fragile. (It will snap when a mosquito farts nearby...) However, there is a 2ⁿᵈ which is available, but hard to get. It is called a “Reinforced or Fiberglass Reinforced Cutting Disk.” It is FAR more durable the their regular disk, but it's not quite as durable as the EZ-Lock metal disk. So, unless polishing is your main task, the EZ-Lock w/the collet-less chuck head might be your best choice.
Very well explained. I have made Many walking sticks over the years and used lot's of different bits shown here. Dremel's are great for so many projects over the years too. I never knew they had a couple like the Kutsall burr I will defiantly have to look for one. Thanks Good stuff
THANK YOU for the video. I bought a Dremel to smooth pieces of silver I pour and to also polish them. I couldn't even figure out how to attach the polishing wheel! So this was a great video for me.
I’ve had success using those small cutting wheels through thick spring steel sheets from old hand saw plates (usually rusty big box store ones from decades past) for other uses without any breaking on me, it took a while because I was doing it one pass at a time. Though there were moments I got impatient and got more aggressive. I think my main gripe with them is also how fragile they are, but mostly when I accidentally drop a replacement disk and it chips plus how fast they can wear through. Those little router bits look neat though!
Yeah. They can work fine if you have a real steady hand and cut with precision. They are also thinner, hence they will have too cut away less material. But as you say, if you get impatient and force them in any way, they will probably break 💔
I just got a steel carbide cutting wheel today and the EZlock bit for it. It was 45 dollars for the 2, the wheel itself was about 32 usd. I'm using it to cut quarts and stone. I'm really impressed by the little thing.
The wire brush I prefer is the 538-02 silicon-carbide impregnated nylon. Lasts a pretty long time and you have to worry about the little pieces of wire coming loose.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I really needed that. I had a Dremel a long time ago and I've always been wondering what some of the parts were used for. Now I know and I'll make sure to watch the second part of it. I use my Dremel mostly for resin work and it's really nice for polishing and sanding. I haven't used it for carving but I will definitely now that I know what everything is for. You definitely have a new subscriber because those videos are really something that are very very useful for an avid crafter like me.
Thanks I have 2 Dremel things with a lot of boys and never were sure exactly which one was the correct one to do certain things, I was limited to sanding and making holes, now i can use the rest of them correctly, thanks🎉
Brilliant. I didn't even know that those larger Dremel disc were available. I usually use the flexible extention tool because it is so much lighter and easier for precise work, more like holding a fat marker pen. One other thing, I have done a lot of metal polishing and found that I have to make my own tool by gluing wet and dry abrasive paper onto dowel rod, sawing this up and using it on the buffing mandrel shank so that I can go through the grits to get a mirror finish on razors
Thank you for this video. It would be nice to have some guidelines included for the best rotation speed depending on which bit and material you use the dremel on.
Thank for the tip. I can see how that would be useful. I will add some general rotary speed guidelines for the different bits in the description or top comment later today. But the rotary speed will wary alot on personal preference and what type of material you are using the bit on, so they will be very general.
Haha, yeah. Looks like a medieval war hammer or something. I might have to give those smaller cutting discs a second chance, many people have said the same thing now.
9:30 sawblade looks extremely dangerous if it has such a strong kickback, I think it was designed to go with the accessory "670 circular saw attachment"
The sawblade is not fun to use. The example was a deep cut with a hard kickback, but that is not to uncommon with this blade unless you go very slow. You could do the same with the ez544 without any kickbacks. These off brand blades are not really designed for using with the 670 mini saw, some of them are to large, but if you use the right size one it might work and it might be more reliable. I would need to test that out :) thanks for commenting.
I have a love/hate relationship with the mini-wire wheels. They're really useful for getting into tight areas, but as you stated they tend to fling tiny wire bristles everywhere which get stuck in your clothes and you end up finding them for weeks after using one -- usually in a painful fashion. One trick that helps is to use super glue on both sides of the center which seems to reduce bristle loss significantly. One alternative that I've found is these long shank stainless steel cleaning end brushes. The ones I've been buying don't ever seem to lose their bristles, they just wear down over time. One other comment -- Dremel does have sanding discs with the EZ-lock system, so you don't have to deal with the screw in the middle of the disc. Only downside to the EZ-lock system that I've found is if the disc (especially on the thin cutting discs) happens to get jammed up, the center can tear right out rendering the disc useless.
@@rotarycrafts8760 I've had good luck with them so far and of course EZ-lock is nice in this area when you might need to start with a coarser disc and progressively swap to finer grit discs. Tear out of the center piece has mostly been with the thin cutting discs rather than the sanding ones -- worst problem I've had with the sanding discs is them getting torn up, but in my case I'm mostly sanding metal. With wood and other softer materials, I can't imagine you'd have an issue with that at all.
Thank you! I have 2 dremels (cordless one and the tiny one). I had no clue they could do so much! I bought the tiny ones bc I do 💅 with them sometimes… lol. They work well for that! Lol… I was gifted a large kit with over 100 bits and I had no clue what they were for… I also didn’t know what the black thing that comes with it was for until you told me it is for routing. Thank you. Very informative
I also found that the small cutting wheels shatter. I now have a bosch 12v grinder which is so much better for cutting small things than the dremel. I don’t personally recommend the dremel as a router I think it is underpowered. My favourite attachments are the sanding buffs, the nylon brush, and some of the burrs and sanding wheels.
What I am looking for is a good, and available solution for slowing down the tool. I use mine primarily for soft plastics, sanding and cutting. It takes a very deft touch to do this with the speeds these motors turn at. A slower speed would allow finer control.
Which Dremel do you have? Most Dremel models have speed control that takes you down to 5000 RPMs. But i know the older versions like the Dremel 100 is single speed at 30000 RPMs or something.
@@rotarycrafts8760 I have speed controlled dremels which I understand cannot be used with variable speed controllers. THey unfortunately do not go as slow as I would like. I'm looking at possibly picking up a variable AC controller and a single speed rotary tool. These can be controlled down to nearly a full stop. I'm looking for something around 1000 rpm or a bit less.
@@carlsmoot2939 Yeah. It seems like it can be hard to find the right tool and system, but I'm sure it's doable. I found a video that could be of help. If you look at the bottom of the description for this video, I linked to another video where another RUclipsr had the same problem. He starts demonstrating the speed control at the 11-minute mark. The variable speed control works with his setup, foredom pedal, and wen rotary tool. But I am not sure if it goes down to a low enough rpm for your use. Maybe with a light enough touch. Good Luck :)
I love all things “Dremel”. The serrated saw blade should be used with the circular saw attachment as that greatly aids in stabilizing the whole Dremel. I have one and it works great. No kick back. Please, remember that when using any power tool, let the tool do the work. Don’t force the bits beyond each’s limit as forcing each bit to work harder can cause damage to to tool, bit, work surface or the user. Let’s all Dremel!
Thanks this video really summed it up pretty well. I just got a rotary tool 2 days ago because I want to get started with wood carving and I was overwhelmed with all the head bits that it came with. This video really saved me a lot of research and time. Amazing job, THUMBS UP !!!
Very informative video with demonstrations. The little chuck is very practical. I use a cordless 12v bosch rotary tool and all of the attachments are compatible, even the flexible one. Proxxon also make very good quality rotary tools and accessories. In this video you covered most of the bits, everyone can find good info. 👍👍👍👍
@@rotarycrafts8760 The flex extension is wonderful for small work, but be careful as I had one get very hot very fast and it burned my finger to a blister. That was a Black and Decker tool. _Tom's wife Pam_
Very helpful! I cringed when I saw the serrated saw blade. Given time, at high RPM, it will flip out of your bare hands. A Dremel with a serrated saw blade is basically a small version of what was a one time a fairly common tool - a toe kick saw. Used for cutting wood flooring under kitchen cabinets to replace flooring that was improperly installed under cabinets. I used one - once - on a kitchen remodel. I hit a metal pan hidden under the flooring at the dishwasher insert, and torque pulled the tool out of my hands. A trip to the ER and 120 stitches to repair the damage to my leg. The serrated blade basically rolls up what ever it hits until the shaft powers down.
The larger metal cutting disc is a great tip. The small discs are really dangerous, they're a lost eye waiting to happen. Even wearing good quality eye protection I'm always worried.
If you're going to use drill bits, I'd advise to get at least 2 sets, because they are small and thin and you might break them by accident while using them. I usually use them on softer materials, but when I used them on metals, they worked like charm. I 've got some no name grinding stones, that came in different shapes. Those worked great too, they helped me create proper bevels, on a new axe head. As with all power tools. you have to take safety measure and always be careful, when you use a Dremel!
I *constantly* burn drill bits in my dremel. I can't remember to act right to avoid it so I don't use them in it much, instead I just use a manual pin vise drill handle. Slow is better for fine detail anyway.
the small metal "cutting" discs are more for grinding than cutting. they're really useful for e.g. cleaning up welds, etc. it's the same as the difference between cutting wheels and grinding wheels on an angle grinder
I've been using the Speedclic abrasive buffs recently for polishing coins. One of the problems I came across is distinguishing between the medium (280 grit) and the fine (320 grit) buffs. They are both exactly the same size & colour (purple), and I honestly can't see any difference between them, in terms of stiffness, abrasiveness etc. The coarse (180 grit) buffs are a completely different colour (brown), and are noticeably rougher to the touch. I suspect that the medium & fine ones are actually identical! What do you think?
That seems strange yes. But 40 grit difference at that fine of grit will not do much difference. So they might actually be the same. I don't have to much experience with buffing pads though, so I could not say anything for sure. :)
@@rotarycrafts8760 Initially, I wanted to see if the 320 grit buffs would give a high polish to the coins, but the result looks no different (to me) that from the 280 ones. Actually, I quite like the satin finish from the buffs, but probably to get a high polish, I'd need to use the cloth polishers & paste...
Those EZ change bits are dangerous. I stopped using them after I had more than one cut off wheel come loose and fly off, and yes I was using it correctly. When using the sanding disks, it helps if you use a thin plastic backing disk made from a soda bottle or something similar. If you want to cut plastic with a rotary tool, it is advisable to get a set of saw blades and use the guard to avoid cutting yourself. If you use the cutoff wheels, they will melt the plastic and clog quickly, throwing melted plastic about.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Part 2 Is Out Now: ruclips.net/video/ohPY035FEwc/видео.html
Now, this is how a YT video should be.
Straight to the point, without any fillers such as, "I'll show you now", "later in the video" and so on.
Great job mate.
I absolutly agree I was thinking same thing
Yee
You know this 98% make viewers … I saw the title and clicked and started grunting
"The routing bits are just like regular routing, just not as good." 🤣
I love your honesty.
I use 1/4" metal end mills for woodworking, a lot better quality. Removes more than a kutsall extreme flame.
@@jonesmatthewdonSounds awesome could you send me a link?
Not sure what to look for😅
I've been using a rotary tool for over 25 years in my art business, engraving glass and metal, and power carving wood. There are many bits that I've never used and you did a great job explaining them.
About a year ago I used the serrated saw blade to cut a small section of paneling from a wall. I accidentally struck a nail and the shaft bent at a 90° angle and dislodged from the collet at high speed. It struck me in the collar bone area and caused a small cut. Thankfully I was wearing a thick shirt or the cut would have been much worse. A couple of inches higher and it would have struck my exposed neck. These blades can potentially be VERY dangerous. Thanks for a great, well explained video.
I'm curious to the best way to cut thick high carbon metal with a rotary tool and seek your opinion on rhe best way to cuts small and tight spots with which bits. I prefer speed and durability most.
I had that happen to me. The shaft bent and I threw the whole Dremel before anything could fly off at me. Ran and unplugged. I've never used the others in the pack and gave that Dremel away.
ya it's probably best to use them in the same way a table saw is used. Only having about 1/3 of the blade being used.
Remember not to use diamond bits on metal. The diamonds can get stuck in metal and get ripped out of the bit. Diamond bits are for stone, glass, and ceramics.
And doggie toenails. 🐕
Thanks captain obvious
@@JaEDLanc It’s not obvious. You have to learn that from experience or being told.
@@evilsharkey8954 😂🤦♂relax, Mr. Know It All. Metal can be drilled, cut, ground and sharpened with a diamond. Unless, of course, you have the knowledge and experience.
Wow. You're a snarky little weasel aren't you?
I made a set of red oak grips for my pistol using my Dremel, and whenever people see and feel it, they're surprised by the quality, because of the memes of kitchen table gunsmiths Bubba-ing stuff with a Dremel, looking like crap.
I found the best way to work is to hang the tool from the ceiling, and have that flexible extension thing come down that lets you use it like a pen. Also helps to have super steady hands. My shop teacher called me "the human jig," because I could make a series of unguided cuts that almost look machined. Obviously a real jig is better for precision work, but when you're just doing creative/artsy stuff, free-hand is deeply satisfying. It's like a meditation, because you have to lower your heart rate, control your breathing, and clear your mind of distractions. It's just you, your tool, and the material.
Even if you're not that creative, I recommend people try it anyway. There's something deeply satisfying about having something tangible you created after a few hours of "meditation." Something that will last, and can be of heirloom quality. It's a part of you that will exist long after you're dead, and a skill set you can pass on to a new generation.
My shop teacher called me the moron with two left hands and ten thumbs. I couldn’t really disagree with him 😃.
Very well explained with actual demos. No other demos are as well done as yours. Very happy to learn from you info and demos. Thank you
Thank you for watching. Love reading comments like this, makes me know what to focus on for future videos. :)
@@rotarycrafts8760 Give the screw on the disc thingy a bit of fine sanding, and it won't damage things as much, when you end up touching you whatever with it.
@@rotarycrafts8760 Don't use the serated blade free hand. Clamp up the machine, and make some kind of stationary table, so you don't chop off usefull body parts such as fingers.
Thank you so much! I’ve had a hard time finding a comprehensive video that really explains each rotary tool bit, and I especially appreciate the short video demonstrations!
Thanks for watching. Love the feedback.
This! 👆
@@thatfrakkingcat9171 p 6:58
Very helpful. Thank you.
@@rotarycrafts8760 I would like a good explanation of the differences between the four or five main types of aluminum oxide grinding stone-pink, white, brown, orange, etc. the physical differences, how those differences e ffect the performance on various materials, and how those properties effect the appropriate selection. I am struggling with finding a good but concise explanation that will allow me to most appropriately select which type of aluminum oxide grinding stone I use for each specific project. I tend to use the white ones on very hard materials such as carbon steel or cast iron and ductile iron because they seem to have good friability and remain effective even after using for several minutes, but they also seem to wear down faster than some of the the others. When it comes to softer metals, should I be using the pink or the orange aluminum oxide instead? And maybe even some comparison to silicone carbide grinding stones might be nice. If you could consider expanding on those topics in a future video please. I love using my rotary tool but I don’t think it’s always the best idea to spend more time and money on learning through experimentation when the information is already out there. Cheers!
Found a dremel kit at a dump site still works like a dream. Just this video alone has taught me so much on the many features and i thank you
Using the metal cutting disk on plastic often melts the plastic and does not make a clean cut. The plastic cutting disk does not. :)
Same experience I have had. Some after work is necessary if you do it thus way.
To avoid melting the plastic, cut it at the lowest speed that your Dremel tool will allow. Your friend, Jeff.
Tip, also, DO NOT use your sanding drums 🪘 at full speed. They will not hold together at 30.000 RPM. Wear a face shield 🛡️. It will protect your eyes 👀 and face from debris (such as flying wires), such as if a grinding wheel 🛞 decides to disintegrate. Again, your friend, Jeff.
And melted plastic forces rotary tool then it will damage your tool (one of my friend damaged tool :)
One of the best demos on RUclips. Even I could follow it. Learnt a lot. very well done.
Lovely to hear. Thanks for watching :)
perfect and rare video on RUclips with detailed explanation of each tool. Thank you!!!😊
I found the metal brush ideal for shaping foam; it wears down very quickly and safety goggles+good aeration is definitely required; but few tools allow that kind of precision and smoothness on such a soft material
That's good info.
Note that the collets shown at 0:23 have rings or grooves around them to identify the internal diameter (bit size that fits). IIRC, zero rings = 1/32, 1 ring = 1/16, 2 rings = 3/32 and 3 rings = 1/8". Something like that!
Finally a decently detailed and well demonstrated video on all those bits... and pieces, which doesn't take one forever to watch.
I get so easily distracted and confused if they're too long. 😔
Many thanks!
I am convinced that the small cutting discs have to be for something else that we all haven't figured out yet. The fibrous cut off wheels are fantastic and I never ever have problems using them unless it is either trying to get into a very tight space or using it enough that it wears too small to be effective. I've used these things to cut a section of a metal header for a wall that had a passage cut into it after the fact which the contractor left unfinished because he thought it was only temporary. Went through it like butter!
They are definitely keeping something a secret :)
problem is in lack of practice, i use it a lot, but you have to have calm and precise hand, he held it like shovel
I prefer the smaller ones. They cut so much faster in my experience. The bigger discs feel like you're carving away at things with a butter knife. The key is to hold things very steady, brace the tool against your body or whatever else is close and you'll have much fewer broken discs. It still happens, sure, but much less so than if you're just holding it in one hand without bracing it.
Heyyyy. Really, Like a shovel? :P
@@rotarycrafts8760 i have many of these type (dremel) , i have 1 minicraft that is a little smaller and lighter for low rpm and highTQ, and the big one from lidl, with 500w, it is same size as angle grinder and all of them i hold as pen , even angle grinder i hold with one hand, mostly for gearbox
Great video. The editing was perfect. Straight to the point, very concise, showing examples and including the names in multiple spots.
Here I leave my thanks for the elementary explanation about the functions and nomenclature of the Bits that we use in machines like the Dremmel.
Although I haven't fully looked for this type of explanation elsewhere, I did happen to stumble upon your video on this subject, which I was pleased with.
Thank you very much.
This was amazing and helpful! I like that you have examples of their use as you’re talking about them as well as the pros and cons. Informative and concise. Thank you!
I'm glad to hear. Thanks for watching :)
this is a great video! a tip for metal cutting wheels: they work best if you go slowly with them and don't push them into the material very hard. it makes them last longer and risks breaking them less! just move them back and forth with gentle preessure against what you're cutting, with many light passes over the line you're cutting.
Thank You very much!
_Tom's wife Pam_
Good tips-use gentle pressure and multiple passes. I would add-cut with the outer 1/4-1/3 of the wheel. If you need to make a deeper cut, then use a larger diameter wheel. Usually the wheel snaps off when trying to cut too deep and the wheel binds. Wear eye protection.
Thank you so much for making this video, especially as you made it without annoying music that drowns out the voice. I just bought one and had no idea what to do with all the bits.
I've just bought lots of bits with no idea what they do.
The video is excellent.
Great to hear!
The handpiece extension is the one thing, i would not live without. I also upgraded to a not Dremel but compatible 400W main unit. This makes a huge difference.
Thank you for going through all these. I am learning about my Dremel but have a hard time finding videos that give purpose as well as pros and cons for each tip. Really glad to know I’m not the only one who breaks those stupid cut off wheels so easily! 😊🦋
Only buy the woven mesh filled type. You'll see a thin checkerboard pattern in the faces.
I just wanted to say Hi! from South Carolina on the east coast of the US. I'm about 50% Norwegian so that is why I left this.
This was very informative. I just got an off brand Dremel so was curious as to the bits. I learned lot from this, so thank you for sharing!!!
Hi. Greetings from Norway. From what part of Norway is your family from? Glad to have a fellow Norwegian here :p thanks for watching.
On metal brushes. Use super glue to keep the pieces from coming out.
Thank you for this great idea!
Please could you explain further
@@bluesnowbelle7625 put super glue along the brush where is meets the wheel. Let it dry. Then when using the brush the small pieces of wire doesn’t come flying out in to my eyes. I saw a video on it. Good luck.
@@grandpabill1959 Thank you 🤗
@@bluesnowbelle7625 good luck on your projects. May they never end. 😉
The 402 mandrels changed the whole game IMO. They have some flexible abrasive wheels that are superior to anything else I have used in the past for cleaning metal. Expensive though and they wear out fast. The large cutting discs are the way to go with the 402 mandrels. At some point because of the high-speed nature of the tool, you need to take it apart and clean everything inside. Buy only the Dremels with ball bearings. When you force the motor to continuously slow down from loading, you're wearing it out. It's strictly a hobby tool. For serious work, spend the money and buy Foredom. Using the metal brushes, I found that if you don't exceed 'half throttle', they don't shed as much. Been using Dremels since the '60s. They started out with bronze bushings and eventually went to ball bearings....game changers for longevity. You can go into the ball bearings, clean & regrease them but that's beyond the bounds of most owners.
I still have the original tool you speak of, it gets used only for "more abusive" jobs lol. Save the best tools for real jobs right?
That was very helpful, and saved us all a lot of time and money when approaching the magical Demel bit cabinet at the hardware store. Thanks!
Good general info here. Perfect for a beginner to learn what bit to use for a particular application. You can't go wrong with a Dremel (or rotary tool in general). It's a MUST have for almost everyone. It does so much for the little money it costs. For around $100 you can get a whole kit with just about every bit you need, with the exception of specialty bits. And if you want to go with a non-Dremel brand tool and bits, you can cut that price down almost in half these days. I used to have a Craftsman rotary tool which was pretty much a Dremel clone that worked for 10 years before I worked it to death. However, I do also recommend Dremel brand tools and bits, as stated in this video. They are very good and solid for the price.
True.
That's quite debatable. If you're doing anything larger and work with metals, well Dremels are essentially toys. Plus you can replace most of the tools with conventional tools. Like those cutting discs for metal are hilarious shiit. You can do 100x more with normal hacksaw. For woodworkers I'd say it's quite nice tool. Plus obviously model working etc. that needs fine tools.
@@jothain Nothing I said was debatable. I never said it replaces conventional tools.
I just purchased my first rotary tool kit & didn't know where to start. This video is a great resource for newbies like me. Thanks for your help.
I am in the opposite boat. Had mine for 10ish years and only used it for rounding off trimmed dog's nails. Now I feel like I can use it for so much more.
Excellent video. We've needed a good explanation of rotary bits & you have provided it.
In using the grinder bit, it can fill very quickly on metals like brass, as yours did in the demonstration. If one goes slowly & touches the bit often to a piece of blackboard chalk, the bit cuts cleaner & doesn't plug up so quickly.
Anytime one uses abrasives a dust mask is an imperative. Diamond wheels, for instance, will shed diamond dust as the particles loose purchase from whatever mastic the manufacturer uses, & take up permanent residence in your lungs. They are unwelcome tenants....
Again, very valuable video & I thank you for presenting it. Well done, Sir!
Great tips. Did not know about the blackboard chalk trick, i will definitely give that a try. Thanks for watching :)
Great presentation! Thorough but not overwhelming. I like the examples of the different bit in use. I appreciate the honesty of admitting when there isn’t a lot of experience using a specific bit. Well done!
Oh my God! Thank you so much this video is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't think it would be so hard to find somebody to explain to me what each Dremel bit does.
Again thank you for sharing your lifesaver.❤
I’ve watched several videos on Dremo, and this is the first one that I actually had on the screen the number of the bit that we were talking about. Bravo excellent freaking video now subscribed!
Great. Thanks for watching :)
Hey! This was way more informative than I had hoped! Excellent video! Thanks so much! Yeah, that serrated saw blade one - that's much better if you have the Flex Shaft attachment - using that, and securing the operative end to a makeshift platform, you pretty much make a tiny table-saw for it - THAT works great - it allows the working end to be securely fixed to a working surface, while you move the material across the surface with the blade cutting through, as would happen on a regular table-saw, only in Dremel size! 😉👍
I've seen those cutting platform, i would love too test that out one day.
Thank you soooo much for your detailed use of the dremel bits. I have had my Dremel for a few years now and only used it for sanding and polishing because I wasn’t sure on how to use the other bits. Thank you very much.🙏🙏🙏
im so stingy with leaving a like and a comment, but this one here deserves!! straight to the point.. clear as sun.
Thank you for making this video. I’m a total beginner and overwhelmed by all the different types of bits. I plan on giving wood carving a go :)
My ol' man ( may he rest in peace) LOVED the dremel tool. He had 3 or 4 of them & probably
every bit they ever made. He gave me one as a xmas gift. I tried it but I just wasnt feeling it
so it sat in its case under my bench for a couple of decades. I think I threw it away.
!
Rest in peace to your ol' man. Thanks for watching :)
Nooooo!!! 😳😭
Great explanation on the different bits that I have but really didn't know what they were for. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful :)
This is the thing that should be on the packaging or at least easily found for anyone that need to know. My experience with tools in general is that the makers somehow believe that every customer know it all in advance, and how can anyone when there is a first time for everything.
Of course you can test your heart out of these bits and come to some conclusion, but to my experience you end up braking more gear than you have to just because of the inexperience and wrong use of things. It's hard to know the limit of something when you have no prior experience, and this is where you just need to break something before you know. This is why it would help so much to at least know what ballpark you're dealing with.
They provide a whole book on useless information & legaleez in 100 languages but nothing short for what each bit is best used for.
I got a dremel as a teen and have scratched the surface of what this thing can do!! Thanks for the over view
Thanks for the great explanation. My Dremel came with 0 directions, and I have not gotten much use out of it as a result. Your video however has filled in many gaps in my knowledge of this amazing tool that I know I can take better advantage of. Your information is presented in a great fashion with thoroughly thought-out explanations and demonstrations. Thanks again for a fantastic video. You just got a new subscriber.
Same.
I didn't realize I actually wanted a rotary or whatever
Best Dremel bit explanation I have seen - and I have seen many!!! Great job! To the point and well illustrated too - makes it really clear and usefull!!!
Incredible! I really appreciate you taking the time to review Dremel bits and providing useful opinions about so many of them. I must admit that some of the bits have been a mystery to me. Thank you so much.
Very useful video. I would like to know the correct applications for the grey-blue stones and the red-brown stones. Thanks!
Very nicely done. The time stamps, the links, and the quickness of the explanations were all good.
Thank you
The thin cut ez disc came apart when I tried to cut through a 1/16th inch thick piece of metal! (like the center metal ez connector came apart from the cutting disc part) So don't use them on metal or else they just fall apart. But the green METAL ez disc cut through the metal pretty well.
Whenever I use disc cutters of any kind with the dremel, I always stand perpendicular to the spinning disc. You should imagine the disc as an infinite plane that you should never intersect with! And also keep your chest and face back as far as possible!
Just wanted to thank you for this video... brilliant explanation with examples, and the additional advice based on your experience with certain bits is really helpful. I got my dremel a couple of days ago and have been struggling to find good advice like this as I'm new to DIY and powertools. I'm looking forward to watching your other videos! ❤
I’m new in this equipment to do a wood carving work. Your introduction on the type and function of the bits is a great resource and help in my understanding and experience in the craft I want to learn. Thank you so much. Blessings
Really informative! Not just what they're used for, but what else they could be used for. It's really started to help me make sense of the dizzying array of pieces that came in the accessories kit 🙂
Although the small cutting discs are, as you showed, brittle, if you take your time and use a light touch, they will only rarely break. The advantage of the small over the large, much stronger cutting disc is the cost: small discs can be purchased in quantity for very little money, but the large disc is expensive.
Good video!
Yeah. They big ones can be a little bit expensive if you do alot of cutting. I'll give the small ones another chance, maybe I can improve my technique a little.
Thanks for watching :)
yes, and thin disc has narrow cutting path and needs less power than wide cutting disc
The grinding bits are also good for shaping foam for making props and costumes--can achieve a reasonable amount of detail. I haven't noticed mine become smooth, but no doubt that's a risk.
Yeah. I've seen alot of cosplayers using the Dremel to make costumes. Didn't know they were using the grinding bits, good to know :)
Thanks for the video. I'm so glad I watched this. You helped me so much, as I'm about to start some wood projects, that in part involves some carving. I was glad to learn of the aluminum cut bits (better for wood, which I did not know, & is HUGE for me), vs the double cut carbide bits (better for metal). I just bought the wrong bits for wood, but thankfully it is still in the mail & free returns. Or maybe I'll hang on to it for metal. And I was so glad to see you use the tile cutting bit on wood. I have that bit; so now I know another good way to use it. (It is also good for carving fast into mini plaster figure sculptures, ala Michelangelo inspired). I saw this at just the right time, after praying for wisdom in tool selection! Wow. The perfect advice keeps finding me at the right minute.
The thin, small diameter carbide or carbondum cutting disks actually come in two different thicknesses. I don't recall the part numbers of each, but the thinner ones are definitely quite fragile. The thinner wheels are faster for cutting small items because you don't have to remove as much material due to the thinness of the wheel, but they can't take any excessive pressure or sideways force. The thicker ones are a little tougher to cut some things with because they cut a thicker groove and remove more material. I use both of these all the time but they do require a light touch. They are excellent for operations such as shortening, or deburring the ends of, very tiny screws and bolts.
When cutting plastics such as acrylics/ perspex with the Ez476 cutting disc 10:17, paraffin/kerosene can be used as a lubricant to prevent the plastic getting too hot and melting/sticking. It works for Hegners/ fret saws/scroll saws and band saws as well.
Great tip. I'll try it out next time I'm cutting plastic.
What a wonderful video that begins to unravel my confusion as to that huge range of bits! Thank you so much. Newbie here.
There are 2 “cutting disks” which use the #402 mandrel. The disk demonstrated in your video is indeed very fragile. (It will snap when a mosquito farts nearby...) However, there is a 2ⁿᵈ which is available, but hard to get. It is called a “Reinforced or Fiberglass Reinforced Cutting Disk.” It is FAR more durable the their regular disk, but it's not quite as durable as the EZ-Lock metal disk. So, unless polishing is your main task, the EZ-Lock w/the collet-less chuck head might be your best choice.
lol mosquito fart
Thank you. My mate is out at Sea and this is exactly what I want to steer me in the right direction
Very well explained. I have made Many walking sticks over the years and used lot's of different bits shown here. Dremel's are great for so many projects over the years too. I never knew they had a couple like the Kutsall burr I will defiantly have to look for one. Thanks Good stuff
Wonderful video! I work with Dremel tools every day and I still enjoyed your video. Good job.
Dremel should pay you for finishing their job for them! Having recently bought a Dremel, the bits are soooo confusing.
Excellent video thanks.
Haha. I'll try to send them an invoice. Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU for the video. I bought a Dremel to smooth pieces of silver I pour and to also polish them. I couldn't even figure out how to attach the polishing wheel! So this was a great video for me.
Super helpful thank you! The demonstration of use for the bits was fantastic. Loved the fast pace of the video too.
Excellent video, comprehensive, concise and very useful, thanks from a new Dremel owner!
I’ve had success using those small cutting wheels through thick spring steel sheets from old hand saw plates (usually rusty big box store ones from decades past) for other uses without any breaking on me, it took a while because I was doing it one pass at a time. Though there were moments I got impatient and got more aggressive.
I think my main gripe with them is also how fragile they are, but mostly when I accidentally drop a replacement disk and it chips plus how fast they can wear through.
Those little router bits look neat though!
Yeah. They can work fine if you have a real steady hand and cut with precision. They are also thinner, hence they will have too cut away less material. But as you say, if you get impatient and force them in any way, they will probably break 💔
I just got a steel carbide cutting wheel today and the EZlock bit for it. It was 45 dollars for the 2, the wheel itself was about 32 usd. I'm using it to cut quarts and stone. I'm really impressed by the little thing.
This is such an amazing video. Despite using many of them, most of my use has been guesswork over the years. Thanks!
Love this video. You did a wonderful job covering a lot, quickly and efficiently.
The wire brush I prefer is the 538-02 silicon-carbide impregnated nylon. Lasts a pretty long time and you have to worry about the little pieces of wire coming loose.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I really needed that. I had a Dremel a long time ago and I've always been wondering what some of the parts were used for. Now I know and I'll make sure to watch the second part of it. I use my Dremel mostly for resin work and it's really nice for polishing and sanding. I haven't used it for carving but I will definitely now that I know what everything is for. You definitely have a new subscriber because those videos are really something that are very very useful for an avid crafter like me.
Well made video. You covered most Dremel bits very well with good explanations! 👍
I received a large assortment for my Dremel & it was VERY helpful U showing each attachment in use! Thank You!
Very helpful! Thank you 👍 I just bought me a turning tool and a big set of various bits and now I even know what all these tools are for! 😊
Can be quite confusing in the beginning. There are still bits out there that i have no idea what their intended purpose is. Glad it helped :)
Thanks I have 2 Dremel things with a lot of boys and never were sure exactly which one was the correct one to do certain things, I was limited to sanding and making holes, now i can use the rest of them correctly, thanks🎉
This was so to the point and easy to understand. Great video
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant. I didn't even know that those larger Dremel disc were available.
I usually use the flexible extention tool because it is so much lighter and easier for precise work, more like holding a fat marker pen.
One other thing, I have done a lot of metal polishing and found that I have to make my own tool by gluing wet and dry abrasive paper onto dowel rod, sawing this up and using it on the buffing mandrel shank so that I can go through the grits to get a mirror finish on razors
Thank you for this video. It would be nice to have some guidelines included for the best rotation speed depending on which bit and material you use the dremel on.
Thank for the tip. I can see how that would be useful. I will add some general rotary speed guidelines for the different bits in the description or top comment later today. But the rotary speed will wary alot on personal preference and what type of material you are using the bit on, so they will be very general.
Dude that kutzall bit is CRAZY looking! Never seen one before. I dig the brittle disks for metal, you just got to have a steady hand.
Haha, yeah. Looks like a medieval war hammer or something. I might have to give those smaller cutting discs a second chance, many people have said the same thing now.
9:30 sawblade looks extremely dangerous if it has such a strong kickback, I think it was designed to go with the accessory "670 circular saw attachment"
The sawblade is not fun to use. The example was a deep cut with a hard kickback, but that is not to uncommon with this blade unless you go very slow. You could do the same with the ez544 without any kickbacks. These off brand blades are not really designed for using with the 670 mini saw, some of them are to large, but if you use the right size one it might work and it might be more reliable. I would need to test that out :) thanks for commenting.
The 670 circular saw is fast when cutting plastic ( acrylics) for window pains
I've been wrapping sandpaper around a screwdriver bit to sand inside holes in metal. It works, but I'm glad there's a better method 👍
I have a love/hate relationship with the mini-wire wheels. They're really useful for getting into tight areas, but as you stated they tend to fling tiny wire bristles everywhere which get stuck in your clothes and you end up finding them for weeks after using one -- usually in a painful fashion. One trick that helps is to use super glue on both sides of the center which seems to reduce bristle loss significantly. One alternative that I've found is these long shank stainless steel cleaning end brushes. The ones I've been buying don't ever seem to lose their bristles, they just wear down over time.
One other comment -- Dremel does have sanding discs with the EZ-lock system, so you don't have to deal with the screw in the middle of the disc. Only downside to the EZ-lock system that I've found is if the disc (especially on the thin cutting discs) happens to get jammed up, the center can tear right out rendering the disc useless.
I've seen the ez lock sanding discs on Amazon, but i have not tried them. Do you think they are worth getting?
@@rotarycrafts8760 I've had good luck with them so far and of course EZ-lock is nice in this area when you might need to start with a coarser disc and progressively swap to finer grit discs. Tear out of the center piece has mostly been with the thin cutting discs rather than the sanding ones -- worst problem I've had with the sanding discs is them getting torn up, but in my case I'm mostly sanding metal. With wood and other softer materials, I can't imagine you'd have an issue with that at all.
I would suggest the 538 abrasive brushes, they don’t fling bristles everywhere.
Thank you! I have 2 dremels (cordless one and the tiny one). I had no clue they could do so much! I bought the tiny ones bc I do 💅 with them sometimes… lol. They work well for that! Lol… I was gifted a large kit with over 100 bits and I had no clue what they were for… I also didn’t know what the black thing that comes with it was for until you told me it is for routing. Thank you. Very informative
I also found that the small cutting wheels shatter. I now have a bosch 12v grinder which is so much better for cutting small things than the dremel. I don’t personally recommend the dremel as a router I think it is underpowered.
My favourite attachments are the sanding buffs, the nylon brush, and some of the burrs and sanding wheels.
What I am looking for is a good, and available solution for slowing down the tool. I use mine primarily for soft plastics, sanding and cutting. It takes a very deft touch to do this with the speeds these motors turn at. A slower speed would allow finer control.
Which Dremel do you have? Most Dremel models have speed control that takes you down to 5000 RPMs. But i know the older versions like the Dremel 100 is single speed at 30000 RPMs or something.
@@rotarycrafts8760 I have speed controlled dremels which I understand cannot be used with variable speed controllers. THey unfortunately do not go as slow as I would like. I'm looking at possibly picking up a variable AC controller and a single speed rotary tool. These can be controlled down to nearly a full stop. I'm looking for something around 1000 rpm or a bit less.
@@carlsmoot2939 Yeah. It seems like it can be hard to find the right tool and system, but I'm sure it's doable. I found a video that could be of help. If you look at the bottom of the description for this video, I linked to another video where another RUclipsr had the same problem. He starts demonstrating the speed control at the 11-minute mark. The variable speed control works with his setup, foredom pedal, and wen rotary tool. But I am not sure if it goes down to a low enough rpm for your use. Maybe with a light enough touch. Good Luck :)
I love all things “Dremel”. The serrated saw blade should be used with the circular saw attachment as that greatly aids in stabilizing the whole Dremel. I have one and it works great. No kick back. Please, remember that when using any power tool, let the tool do the work. Don’t force the bits beyond each’s limit as forcing each bit to work harder can cause damage to to tool, bit, work surface or the user. Let’s all Dremel!
Good advice. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks this video really summed it up pretty well. I just got a rotary tool 2 days ago because I want to get started with wood carving and I was overwhelmed with all the head bits that it came with. This video really saved me a lot of research and time. Amazing job, THUMBS UP !!!
Very informative video with demonstrations. The little chuck is very practical. I use a cordless 12v bosch rotary tool and all of the attachments are compatible, even the flexible one. Proxxon also make very good quality rotary tools and accessories. In this video you covered most of the bits, everyone can find good info. 👍👍👍👍
Cool. I need to try some of these other rotary tool models to see how they compare. The Bosch one seems good 👍 thanks for watching :)
@@rotarycrafts8760 The flex extension is wonderful for small work, but be careful as I had one get very hot very fast and it burned my finger to a blister. That was a Black and Decker tool.
_Tom's wife Pam_
Very helpful! I cringed when I saw the serrated saw blade. Given time, at high RPM, it will flip out of your bare hands. A Dremel with a serrated saw blade is basically a small version of what was a one time a fairly common tool - a toe kick saw. Used for cutting wood flooring under kitchen cabinets to replace flooring that was improperly installed under cabinets. I used one - once - on a kitchen remodel. I hit a metal pan hidden under the flooring at the dishwasher insert, and torque pulled the tool out of my hands.
A trip to the ER and 120 stitches to repair the damage to my leg. The serrated blade basically rolls up what ever it hits until the shaft powers down.
The larger metal cutting disc is a great tip. The small discs are really dangerous, they're a lost eye waiting to happen. Even wearing good quality eye protection I'm always worried.
There are fiber reinforced ones , I stopped using those noninforced ones, my eyes are more important then my money.😊
@@cm-ek4ci Absolutely true…….
Measured in usefulness/time, this is the most useful video on RUclips.
Thank you!...this has been exactly what I've been looking for. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful.
Thank you. I haven't used mine in many years. I forgot what bits did what.
If you're going to use drill bits, I'd advise to get at least 2 sets, because they are small and thin and you might break them by accident while using them. I usually use them on softer materials, but when I used them on metals, they worked like charm.
I 've got some no name grinding stones, that came in different shapes. Those worked great too, they helped me create proper bevels, on a new axe head. As with all power tools. you have to take safety measure and always be careful, when you use a Dremel!
Good tips :)
I *constantly* burn drill bits in my dremel. I can't remember to act right to avoid it so I don't use them in it much, instead I just use a manual pin vise drill handle. Slow is better for fine detail anyway.
bought a offbrand dremmel the other day and thought it cant be that complicated but this helps a lot
Glad it was helpful. Many of the offbrand dremel's can use the attachments that you screw onto the front as well. As long as it got the right threads.
the small metal "cutting" discs are more for grinding than cutting. they're really useful for e.g. cleaning up welds, etc.
it's the same as the difference between cutting wheels and grinding wheels on an angle grinder
Thank you for such a comprehensive, professional and well-informed video for a beginner like me. Great job.
any good for sharpen a hegecutter
I've been using the Speedclic abrasive buffs recently for polishing coins. One of the problems I came across is distinguishing between the medium (280 grit) and the fine (320 grit) buffs. They are both exactly the same size & colour (purple), and I honestly can't see any difference between them, in terms of stiffness, abrasiveness etc. The coarse (180 grit) buffs are a completely different colour (brown), and are noticeably rougher to the touch. I suspect that the medium & fine ones are actually identical! What do you think?
That seems strange yes. But 40 grit difference at that fine of grit will not do much difference. So they might actually be the same. I don't have to much experience with buffing pads though, so I could not say anything for sure. :)
@@rotarycrafts8760 Initially, I wanted to see if the 320 grit buffs would give a high polish to the coins, but the result looks no different (to me) that from the 280 ones. Actually, I quite like the satin finish from the buffs, but probably to get a high polish, I'd need to use the cloth polishers & paste...
Finally.. a proper video with excellent explanations of each bit.. thank you!
Those EZ change bits are dangerous. I stopped using them after I had more than one cut off wheel come loose and fly off, and yes I was using it correctly. When using the sanding disks, it helps if you use a thin plastic backing disk made from a soda bottle or something similar. If you want to cut plastic with a rotary tool, it is advisable to get a set of saw blades and use the guard to avoid cutting yourself. If you use the cutoff wheels, they will melt the plastic and clog quickly, throwing melted plastic about.