On your tape- I much prefer the paste version, particularly for gas fittings. That's what all the old pros who knew things would tell me when I was working at the hardware store. They'd take the tape if they had to, but said the paste in the jar was the more reliable seal for gas or air. I've found it to be the case. A little messy, but better than having to take the whole thing back apart again and reseal. Not a common problem, perhaps, but, they said, when you're under somebody's house in the mud, or upside down behind somebody's stove with your creaky old self and busted knuckles, you only want to do that Once- so I'm passing along their wisdom :)
I used to soak a bit of jute string in jointing paste for large joints and the tape does need proper application - folks often put it on the wrong way so they just unwind it when tightening the thread - I have found it to be like any job - attention to detail and proper application provides a good joint - poor workmanship is often what leads to failure
Very practical stuff, thanks Rob. I'm sure I won't be the only one to notice this, but I think you put the PTFE tape the wrong way around the thread. I don't think it matters that much, and I know you just did it as a quick demo, so you may have even corrected that afterwards. Either way, I learnt a lot from this vid, thanks.
I know it's too late now but rubber window flashing tape would be perfect for what you did there. It's pricey but sticks to anything and can be "massaged" into most any shape due to its flexibility. Cut into one inch strips and "rolled" over the edge down onto the "shoulder" would create a tight and reusable seal. Thanks again for braking it down for us in you're usually thorough style.
That was an excellent idea of sealing the gasifier filter pots together. I'm going to use that idea of using the dish soap as a release agent for making up a gasket on a mating surface for other projects. Thanks!
Loving Roberts's technique with this design, though I would add a little note on using Red RTV. Permatex Red TRV is easy to use but difficult to pull apart if you get the joint really hot. 250 - 300 C It will hold together even when it is over-heated but becomes rock hard. With a low-pressure application you might be ok, but it can no longer hold pressure reliably. Hence, it's given operating temp when used for making seals on engines. The hotter it gets the harder it gets, and then it cracks. With this application, the issue will be taking equipment apart to clean, service, or modify your kit. I have crushed a 1.5" steel plumbing pipe while trying to unscrew it from a fitting after cooking the RTV. (+450C) Solution: Spray the joint with WD40 and leave it for 20min. Scrub around the joint with a wire brush. Rock it loose and respray if necessary. Once you have opened the joint soften the remaining RTV with more WD40. It can then be removed using a wire brush in a drill. Also, you might want to look at brazing dissimilar metals. (HHO gas torch anyone?) A quick structural tack weld followed by a bit of gas brazing could be nice. Dan Easton GEET life.
Sealed, signed and delivered! Very important using the right sealing material to match the joint as you said. A load of choices for each one. Thanks Rob, yet another great video.
Here is a old formula for permanent fireproof clay seal. That has been used to fix and build fireplaces (from year 1852): 50% sieved ash 50% fine clay and some minced salt. Add water to get the consistency you need. They say its much better and more lasting for building fireplaces than regular plaster.
You can get an attachment for the welder that allows you to strike an arc and get a flame to do brazing with. It is easier to make a join when the strength is not so important and can make a good seal
I greatly appreciate the techniques and materials part of these videos, especially with how inventive you are with both. Brilliant way of making a gasket for those streamers so they can be separated!! 😊😊😊
Good one. For a compression fitting, you might also consider a fiberglass, ceramic fiber, or kevlar cording as a composite with one of your no-kiln ceramics. Kevlar paracord and thread are inexpensive.
* since you anyway have spot welded it, buy a few rods of hard welding with blue tip . Caution since it is often phosfor or manganese on them, but anyway, a bad weld is often worse than a mediocre solder and often gas torch soldering is preferred for these things . Tensile strength of flame rod is about mig weld in twnsile strength, it is weaker than the arc you got but it wil seal very nice there. Aga or meltolit , green or blue ones ( it varies ) is also good for combining stainless and regular carbon steel wich sometimes is difficult to mix in a weld
Cool and Hot solutions for making the right, not so tight seals. Thanks for sharing Robert. You just helped me see a different perspective for a thermal vacuum table sealing issue I was having.
Nice Idea using dish soap to prevent the silicone from sticking to parts you don't want it to stick. Now that I think of it; wax that wood workers typically use and the spray people use on cement molds would do the same thing.
There's a good chance any minor leaks will fix themselves over time with saponids from the wood,steam engines were often left purposely to rust when constructed to seal them but not applicable here lol,silicon baking sheets are readily available! Could always try African queen method torn wet rag,maybe too Heath Robinson?:)
this makes me wonder if the Starlite (or is it Starlight?) guess recipes like cornstarch PVA or elmers glue and baking soda would work for sealing these since it expands due to the CO2 released by the baking soda, making expanded carbon foam? kinda wondering if there is an additive too like boric acid to increase temp reliability, and maybe something that would allow the carbon to be more flexible with out being a combustible, :)
@@ThinkingandTinkering the starlight stuff is on my list enough that I have spent probably about 100 bucks on supplies just for it along with all the stuff for various projects like borax, boric acid, phosphoric acid, mono sodium phosphate, 25 lbs of sodium hydroxide, urea, ect ect and probably close to 1000 dollars worth of the cheapest imported pyrex knock off borosilicate lab ware LOL. (then had a friend drop quite a bit of stuff from round bottom digital heating mantle, to the 5 liter 3 neck round bottom boiling flask also borosilicate based LOL, though only fused quartz I have is for the UVC lamp's water proof housing for photocatalytic activity, that will end up being in that 5 liter flask since it fits perfectly including the rubber end on the lamp to plug the neck it is placed in, :) just far to much to, no scratch the to, it sounds like chores, to much I WANT to do, than time permits lol,
Rob you put the tape on the wrong way round, it will be useless like that. You should put a caption on the video explaining not to copy what you did (for people that don't know). Look forward to seeing how much gas this can produce. Is there a good use for the tar you get ?
that's a shame because you are ight they are all different - but you can let the temperature be your guide and if you want to know what temp they operate at - well - it's on the tin!
Robert, appreciate your effort but actually, you don't need to seal anything. just put the whole apparatus in a barrel with sealed air inlet , syngas outlet openings, thats it..
that would have to be quite a large barrel mate - plus you couldn't see it and seeing things is part of the thing - I like the idea in general - as a unit for sale - but as a construction project - seeing it is actually quite important I think
I'm curious to know where you get your rubber from mate. I have really struggled to find any unless buying car mats which are not at all ideal 🤔. PS. I NEED YOUR ADDRESS . I'M RAISING MY VOICE IN MY HEAD MATE LOL
No, however if you flip the tape over and apply the tape running off the back side it’s far easier to keep tension on the roll holding it between 2 fingers as you go
@Ed R6 I had to rewatch the video just to see if it was my dyslexia or if he was going counterclockwise wrapping the tape. Wire nut connections you have to twist the wires the right way as well. Always hold the nut and pull on each wire to make sure it is secured.
Totally off subject, Anyhow Robert or anyone, I'm about 95% sure I found a black diamond meteor in my back yard . And I'm being serious I would like some help identifying if you like plz me thanks. I'm just wondering if I put a current through the stone what should it be at ? I can send pic veto though email if needed , I'm just in shock it was in a raised flowerbed and I just bought house ....lol its seems there is serenibite rhodium somme platium Ruthenium
.......it'd be less than golf ball size of course . .You've determined some metals already or guessing perhaps .. ..but there are geological savvy types on say a gold fossickers channel. The universities geology departments would oblige .Anyway the channel ualbertascience gives advice and looks at your photos if you think you have one . We humans might one day mine the asteroid Psyche for its precious metals .
wow - what an awesome find - I am afraid I personally know next to nothing about them so I can't really help - hopefully someone in the community can - cheers mate
Robert, you're slowly losing me. I'm a general fan of the channel, but I need more excitement. I want to see the windmill, and I want to see the gasifier.... I'll figure out the magnets and the rubbers, myself.... You almost lost me with the glass. Oh, a squirrel....
read some of the other comments mate- it turns out it doesn't matter what I do - some people will compliment some will complain. Some want excitement, some want detail. I am afraid - for me - it is about balancing that. You also might be missing the point of the channel - it is about sharing and helping to inspire - to share you need detail - if that's not for you - I don't mind
If there were such a thing, I think you'd likely receive the Wallace & Gromit award for innovating trash into treasure. Watch out Elon Musk, this channel's next stop might likely be the moon or mars from a rubbish bin of recycled bits and bobs.
for sure mate - but you o have to be careful where you use it - most will start to burn off around 280 degrees C - so good for permanent joints but not so good for high heat nor situations where resealing is needed
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
This video gets my seal of approval!
lol
that dish soap trick with the rtv was just brilliant. Love this channel
I really appreciate seeing the different types/designs for gasifiers.
Great video.
Cheers for sharing.
This is going to be FANTASTIC. I can’t wait until we get the fire started.
me too lol
Learn something new every day! I never heard of using dish soap to prevent RTV from sticking to a surface. Great video again Rob!
cheers mate
On your tape- I much prefer the paste version, particularly for gas fittings. That's what all the old pros who knew things would tell me when I was working at the hardware store. They'd take the tape if they had to, but said the paste in the jar was the more reliable seal for gas or air. I've found it to be the case. A little messy, but better than having to take the whole thing back apart again and reseal. Not a common problem, perhaps, but, they said, when you're under somebody's house in the mud, or upside down behind somebody's stove with your creaky old self and busted knuckles, you only want to do that Once- so I'm passing along their wisdom :)
I used to soak a bit of jute string in jointing paste for large joints and the tape does need proper application - folks often put it on the wrong way so they just unwind it when tightening the thread - I have found it to be like any job - attention to detail and proper application provides a good joint - poor workmanship is often what leads to failure
Very practical stuff, thanks Rob. I'm sure I won't be the only one to notice this, but I think you put the PTFE tape the wrong way around the thread. I don't think it matters that much, and I know you just did it as a quick demo, so you may have even corrected that afterwards. Either way, I learnt a lot from this vid, thanks.
you are right I did and changed it when I was putting it on - for exactly the reasons you said lol
I know it's too late now but rubber window flashing tape would be perfect for what you did there. It's pricey but sticks to anything and can be "massaged" into most any shape due to its flexibility. Cut into one inch strips and "rolled" over the edge down onto the "shoulder" would create a tight and reusable seal. Thanks again for braking it down for us in you're usually thorough style.
That was an excellent idea of sealing the gasifier filter pots together. I'm going to use that idea of using the dish soap as a release agent for making up a gasket on a mating surface for other projects. Thanks!
I'm glad it was helpful mate - cheers
Loving Roberts's technique with this design, though I would add a little note on using Red RTV.
Permatex Red TRV is easy to use but difficult to pull apart if you get the joint really hot. 250 - 300 C
It will hold together even when it is over-heated but becomes rock hard.
With a low-pressure application you might be ok, but it can no longer hold pressure reliably.
Hence, it's given operating temp when used for making seals on engines.
The hotter it gets the harder it gets, and then it cracks.
With this application, the issue will be taking equipment apart to clean, service, or modify your kit.
I have crushed a 1.5" steel plumbing pipe while trying to unscrew it from a fitting after cooking the RTV. (+450C)
Solution:
Spray the joint with WD40 and leave it for 20min.
Scrub around the joint with a wire brush.
Rock it loose and respray if necessary.
Once you have opened the joint soften the remaining RTV with more WD40.
It can then be removed using a wire brush in a drill.
Also, you might want to look at brazing dissimilar metals. (HHO gas torch anyone?)
A quick structural tack weld followed by a bit of gas brazing could be nice.
Dan Easton GEET life.
Sealed, signed and delivered!
Very important using the right sealing material to match the joint as you said. A load of choices for each one. Thanks Rob, yet another great video.
cheers mate
Here is a old formula for permanent fireproof clay seal. That has been used to fix and build fireplaces (from year 1852):
50% sieved ash 50% fine clay and some minced salt.
Add water to get the consistency you need.
They say its much better and more lasting for building fireplaces than regular plaster.
You can get an attachment for the welder that allows you to strike an arc and get a flame to do brazing with. It is easier to make a join when the strength is not so important and can make a good seal
nice tip mate - cheers
I greatly appreciate the techniques and materials part of these videos, especially with how inventive you are with both. Brilliant way of making a gasket for those streamers so they can be separated!! 😊😊😊
awesome ! - cheers Cat
Good one. For a compression fitting, you might also consider a fiberglass, ceramic fiber, or kevlar cording as a composite with one of your no-kiln ceramics. Kevlar paracord and thread are inexpensive.
I was thinking fibreglass rope - but you are right there are quite a few options including flexible graphite compression tape
* since you anyway have spot welded it, buy a few rods of hard welding with blue tip . Caution since it is often phosfor or manganese on them, but anyway, a bad weld is often worse than a mediocre solder and often gas torch soldering is preferred for these things . Tensile strength of flame rod is about mig weld in twnsile strength, it is weaker than the arc you got but it wil seal very nice there. Aga or meltolit , green or blue ones ( it varies ) is also good for combining stainless and regular carbon steel wich sometimes is difficult to mix in a weld
Cool and Hot solutions for making the right, not so tight seals. Thanks for sharing Robert. You just helped me see a different perspective for a thermal vacuum table sealing issue I was having.
that's cool mate - cheers
This is the best way to make a good design for the future of humanity
cheers mate
You are the man, Sir Robert! Thank you for the awesome and helpful content!
RMS, I would use the graphite rope that they use on door seals on fireplace inserts for that glass seal. Should be relatively airtight.
that would do a good job that's for sure mate
really cool series! fun to watch, informative and exited to see the end result
Thanks so much!
Nice Idea using dish soap to prevent the silicone from sticking to parts you don't want it to stick.
Now that I think of it; wax that wood workers typically use and the spray people use on cement molds would do the same thing.
yeah they would - it's kind of what gave me the idea lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering
😎👍
Gasifier on my big list! Top o dat highball glass is gonna get way hotter than the thick decorative base in the start-up.
yeah - it might be a problem - but hey it's easy to replace and let's see what happens in practice
There's a good chance any minor leaks will fix themselves over time with saponids from the wood,steam engines were often left purposely to rust when constructed to seal them but not applicable here lol,silicon baking sheets are readily available! Could always try African queen method torn wet rag,maybe too Heath Robinson?:)
The African Queen is one of my fave movies lol
I employed high temp silicone tubing to seal my ethanol still. I'm quite sure it would work here on your filter as well.
yes it would mate
Just about ready huh.......Awsome.
yep it is lol
this makes me wonder if the Starlite (or is it Starlight?) guess recipes like cornstarch PVA or elmers glue and baking soda would work for sealing these since it expands due to the CO2 released by the baking soda, making expanded carbon foam? kinda wondering if there is an additive too like boric acid to increase temp reliability, and maybe something that would allow the carbon to be more flexible with out being a combustible, :)
they are all good questions mate - fancy giving it a go?
@@ThinkingandTinkering the starlight stuff is on my list enough that I have spent probably about 100 bucks on supplies just for it along with all the stuff for various projects like borax, boric acid, phosphoric acid, mono sodium phosphate, 25 lbs of sodium hydroxide, urea, ect ect and probably close to 1000 dollars worth of the cheapest imported pyrex knock off borosilicate lab ware LOL. (then had a friend drop quite a bit of stuff from round bottom digital heating mantle, to the 5 liter 3 neck round bottom boiling flask also borosilicate based LOL, though only fused quartz I have is for the UVC lamp's water proof housing for photocatalytic activity, that will end up being in that 5 liter flask since it fits perfectly including the rubber end on the lamp to plug the neck it is placed in, :) just far to much to, no scratch the to, it sounds like chores, to much I WANT to do, than time permits lol,
So practical, as always!
cheers mate
Rob you put the tape on the wrong way round, it will be useless like that. You should put a caption on the video explaining not to copy what you did (for people that don't know). Look forward to seeing how much gas this can produce. Is there a good use for the tar you get ?
Great Vid Robert - Very helpful - thank you 😊 👍
Glad it was helpful!
......silicon , silicone ,silica and silicate are all different but accents may confuse things. The text auto correct feature messes things up too .
that's a shame because you are ight they are all different - but you can let the temperature be your guide and if you want to know what temp they operate at - well - it's on the tin!
verry good m8 so easy to follow keep it up
cheers mate
I'm sure you're really making a compbobulating decombobulator. I think they use a similar machine to power CERN.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Robert, appreciate your effort but actually, you don't need to seal anything. just put the whole apparatus in a barrel with sealed air inlet , syngas outlet openings, thats it..
that would have to be quite a large barrel mate - plus you couldn't see it and seeing things is part of the thing - I like the idea in general - as a unit for sale - but as a construction project - seeing it is actually quite important I think
🙏🙏🙏❤️🙏🙏🙏
cheers mate
I'm curious to know where you get your rubber from mate. I have really struggled to find any unless buying car mats which are not at all ideal 🤔.
PS. I NEED YOUR ADDRESS . I'M RAISING MY VOICE IN MY HEAD MATE LOL
Baking mats mate - and I thought I had sent you. my address - but no worries I will drop you a line lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering sweet mate thanks.
will have atomobile muffler expert work on it got thats what i'm trying here
Did you wrap the tread tape the wrong direction?
no
No, however if you flip the tape over and apply the tape running off the back side it’s far easier to keep tension on the roll holding it between 2 fingers as you go
@Ed R6 I had to rewatch the video just to see if it was my dyslexia or if he was going counterclockwise wrapping the tape. Wire nut connections you have to twist the wires the right way as well. Always hold the nut and pull on each wire to make sure it is secured.
Would rtv silicon protoputty seals last longer in a reusable joint?
I don't really know mate - sorry
I wonder if it could power a log splitter or a mig welding machine.
it would depend on you generator - remember these things are matched - I go through that in video 1 and 2 of this series mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering Oh i missed that part sorry.
Do you realize, you final filter assembly, resembles a petroleum separator, tower
lol - does it now - awesome
Totally off subject, Anyhow Robert or anyone, I'm about 95% sure I found a black diamond meteor in my back yard . And I'm being serious I would like some help identifying if you like plz me thanks. I'm just wondering if I put a current through the stone what should it be at ? I can send pic veto though email if needed , I'm just in shock it was in a raised flowerbed and I just bought house ....lol its seems there is serenibite rhodium somme platium Ruthenium
......suburban situation? What did it land on and how deep can you if you wish say . recent is it ?
@@charlesdickens6706 found in garden as rock wall n mud
.......it'd be less than golf ball size of course . .You've determined some metals already or guessing perhaps ..
..but there are geological savvy types on say a gold fossickers channel. The universities geology departments would oblige .Anyway the channel ualbertascience gives advice and looks at your photos if you think you have one . We humans might one day mine the asteroid Psyche for its precious metals .
wow - what an awesome find - I am afraid I personally know next to nothing about them so I can't really help - hopefully someone in the community can - cheers mate
bread dough?... in absence of air it forms a carbon foam.
Robert, you're slowly losing me. I'm a general fan of the channel, but I need more excitement. I want to see the windmill, and I want to see the gasifier.... I'll figure out the magnets and the rubbers, myself.... You almost lost me with the glass.
Oh, a squirrel....
read some of the other comments mate- it turns out it doesn't matter what I do - some people will compliment some will complain. Some want excitement, some want detail. I am afraid - for me - it is about balancing that. You also might be missing the point of the channel - it is about sharing and helping to inspire - to share you need detail - if that's not for you - I don't mind
Oh well fifth is good.
indeed it is mate lol
If there were such a thing, I think you'd likely receive the Wallace & Gromit award for innovating trash into treasure. Watch out Elon Musk, this channel's next stop might likely be the moon or mars from a rubbish bin of recycled bits and bobs.
lol - the moon in a trash can - I like the idea of the challenge mate lol
First! Awesome! :-)
awesome indeed lol
Pro tip. If you spend just a little time talking about clown communist unicorn pro noun sex, youtube will boost your views by a factor of 10.
e poxey
for sure mate - but you o have to be careful where you use it - most will start to burn off around 280 degrees C - so good for permanent joints but not so good for high heat nor situations where resealing is needed