Cross Cut Saw Restoration (Part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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This is a series on restoration of a cross cut saw.
Everything I learned was from this web site and video series:
www.bchw.org/Te...
Glad to see that you are working at an old art. So much of this sort of thing is forgotten or taken for granted. A comment however. You should get your cutters closer to finish height before setting your rakers. After you flushed your cutters and rakers on that misfiled saw filing the cutters will drop them significantly more than the .008 of your raker clearance. You will sharpen the cutters and the rakers will then be to high, possibly .010 or .015 over. Establish the cutter height after jointing, then file and swage the rakers, then dress the cutters to their final sharp with a few strokes per tooth. Rakers need to be .008 to .012 lower than the cutters when in the kerf. The forest service videos are a very good source of info. Thats how I learned. You made a good video however. Thanks for sharing.
I can't believe you have the patience to file such a improperly-filed saw, I'm impressed.
Your vise makes way more sense to make than making a dedicated saw vise.
You may find that the forest service videos in this topic will take your craft from experimental novice to VERY well informed novice. They gentleman presenting has left no stone unturned. I'd bet the house that Wranglerstar learned from those videos. Difference would be Wranglerstar also has the talent of making information more consumable for the general populace. Still...more info. in the old service videos. Keep up the good work. Cheers!
great video i love how u get rid of the noise
What if you mounted a metal pipe to your wood guide. Insert a striking shaft or set in the pipe then clamp the wood guide to the saw?
The swaged teeth behave themselves as wood chisles, I'd say!
If I am not mistaken, the set teeth only score the wood, cutting along or across the grain, but they don't remove much material, they are here to give a smoother cut, and guide the saw, not to do the bulk of the stock removal!
That delineates the kerf but with these teeth alone, you wouldn't get a "trench", but only to scored lines, it wouldn't dig , these swaged teeth then cut, or shear, depending on how well it's sharpened, the material that has been delineated by the set teeth!
(think of it as how you'd make a dado with hand tools only, first you saw what will end up being the "walls" of your dado, then you chisel the wood that's between those two saw kerfs)
+siouxsettewerks Exactly.
Correct. The cutter teeth cut the wood grain on the outside of the kerf, and the rakers act as chisels and remove the chip from the log (like a chisel). You are essentially making a dado on a smaller scale (use a saw to cut the two ends, and a chisel for removing the material in between)
The raker should be 12 thousands lower than the cutting tooth
0.008" (eight thousandths) is the thickness of TWO hairs (within one or one and a half thousandths). You were closer to 1/32 or 0.031 by looking at your vid...
Other than that, you are doing nice work... Keep up on it and you will develope the eye and feel necessary for this type of work. It took me many years of toolmaking to be able to do this by feel.
Personally I felt that 8 thousands just did not seem right. Immediately after I finished I went to cut on some downed hard wood and was dissapointed to see very dusty shavings. However after using the saw this past weekend on some softer wood, the saw cut very well, nice thick long shavings. So Im somewhat drawn on what I should file my next saw to.
I love the videos! I live in Michigan and those things are everywhere. I just picked up an old bucksaw the other day for $20 great info. Thanks
the raker should be a litlle higher, no?
Stephen Zevetchin rakers should be .oo8 lower. If the are higher the saw wont cut. The rakers remove material that the cutters have shaved and take it out of the cut