Thanks, Harry, I'll give it a go. We do use chainsaws and all the plug ins, but, although not a dinosaur, I'm a firm believer in good hand skills. The younger fellows at work seem scared of the handsaw. Planing as well, they see it as hard work, but no machine can match the sheen of the handplaned finish.
nice saw that you have there. I also have a one man saw with a lance pattern tooth. if you plan on cutting with it no need to knock the burrs off, the cutting process will do it for you.
Hi SawZaag - it will love green oak.........that is a fine saw you have, take your time with the sharpening and it should work very well.. at least one can see the teeth on a saw of that size.....good luck.
Hi Patrick - yes I was very pleased to get it - at least your new one will be ready sharp - and if its a Flinn Garlick it will be very nice. Regards Harry
Garlick Flynn say there saws are sharpenable on their website, and even provide a large file for sharpening their logging saws. I think provided you use a high quality strong triangular file you should be able to give the teeth a nice touch up - a Bedford, Stubbs, or Nicholson file would be a good choice for this - and presumably Garlick Flynns own file. Good luck. Regards Harry
Hi Harry, very helpful video.... i have bought just the same saw a couple days ago...in a ebay-like website here in my country, same teeth configuration, but without handle...perfect for restoration...must be usa or uk made...im waiting to receive it...its a shame that the detachable handle is missing too ...but well, fortunately no missing teeth!...lets see if i can bring it back to life! bye!
I'll give sharpening a go. Normal handsaws aren't a problem (although I normally send them off), but this looked a bit of a beast. I've not used one before. I've no idea how it would perform on green oak.
I bought one of the Flinn saws about 2 years ago (thought it might be useful for cutting green oak) it's a very nice saw and I was pleased with it, however I sent it off for sharpening and it was returned untouched. They (sawdoctors) said that they couldnt sharpen it as, "it's a hardpoint". I disputed this, but they wouldn't be convinced. Yes, the teeth are "blued", as on a hardpoint, but surely that's simply from the manufacturing process? They saw the blue and made their minds up.
Thanks for that, windsor, I knew they must be. The fellow who collected the saw said something like, " ooh, they look like hardened teeth". He obviously repeated this to his colleagues, who agreed, so they didn't even try. Common sense should have been enough to know that such a saw would have been resharpenable. They saw blue and jumped to conclusions, annoying, especially since I knew I was right.
Hi Harry, did you sharpen (ie bevel) the vertical sides of the teeth next to the gullet? I have been doing some research on these saws but most of the videos I have found are for sharpening a Champion or Lance pattern tooth rather than this Great American tooth pattern. In the crosscut saw manual it mentions that M tooth saws (one less point per cluster than yours) are only beveled on the inside angles with the outsides left vertical to act as rakers. The book mentions that the Grat American pattern is similar to the M so I think it should be vertical...
+Andrew Frudd Hi Andrew from vague memory I think I bevelled some and left others plain as thats how it had been done before both on this saw and another I had......I think your approach sounds right, and your justification makes very good sense...interesting.
Hi - this seems to be very special - is there any manual out there how to exactly do the sharpening? Lots of videos cover different patterns. I have bought a factory-new saw, there are no bevels at all! Manufacturer says it is sharp, dealer says it is not, I have to re-sharpen it. But how exactly?
Hi - yes it works really well and there is nothing like a well sharpened saw - thanks for the tip re: burrs. Regards Harry.
Thanks, Harry, I'll give it a go. We do use chainsaws and all the plug ins, but, although not a dinosaur, I'm a firm believer in good hand skills. The younger fellows at work seem scared of the handsaw. Planing as well, they see it as hard work, but no machine can match the sheen of the handplaned finish.
nice saw that you have there. I also have a one man saw with a lance pattern tooth. if you plan on cutting with it no need to knock the burrs off, the cutting process will do it for you.
Hi SawZaag - it will love green oak.........that is a fine saw you have, take your time with the sharpening and it should work very well.. at least one can see the teeth on a saw of that size.....good luck.
Hi Patrick - yes I was very pleased to get it - at least your new one will be ready sharp - and if its a Flinn Garlick it will be very nice. Regards Harry
Garlick Flynn say there saws are sharpenable on their website, and even provide a large file for sharpening their logging saws. I think provided you use a high quality strong triangular file you should be able to give the teeth a nice touch up - a Bedford, Stubbs, or Nicholson file would be a good choice for this - and presumably Garlick Flynns own file. Good luck. Regards Harry
£9.99..... Bargin! ive been bidding on these for the last 3 weeks and ended up buying a new one for £70. great video, very informative.
Hi Harry, very helpful video.... i have bought just the same saw a couple days ago...in a ebay-like website here in my country, same teeth configuration, but without handle...perfect for restoration...must be usa or uk made...im waiting to receive it...its a shame that the detachable handle is missing too ...but well, fortunately no missing teeth!...lets see if i can bring it back to life! bye!
great...perhaps some studding and a wooden dowel might fix the handle
I'll give sharpening a go. Normal handsaws aren't a problem (although I normally send them off), but this looked a bit of a beast. I've not used one before. I've no idea how it would perform on green oak.
I bought one of the Flinn saws about 2 years ago (thought it might be useful for cutting green oak) it's a very nice saw and I was pleased with it, however I sent it off for sharpening and it was returned untouched. They (sawdoctors) said that they couldnt sharpen it as, "it's a hardpoint". I disputed this, but they wouldn't be convinced. Yes, the teeth are "blued", as on a hardpoint, but surely that's simply from the manufacturing process? They saw the blue and made their minds up.
Thanks for that, windsor, I knew they must be. The fellow who collected the saw said something like, " ooh, they look like hardened teeth". He obviously repeated this to his colleagues, who agreed, so they didn't even try. Common sense should have been enough to know that such a saw would have been resharpenable. They saw blue and jumped to conclusions, annoying, especially since I knew I was right.
Hi Harry, did you sharpen (ie bevel) the vertical sides of the teeth next to the gullet? I have been doing some research on these saws but most of the videos I have found are for sharpening a Champion or Lance pattern tooth rather than this Great American tooth pattern. In the crosscut saw manual it mentions that M tooth saws (one less point per cluster than yours) are only beveled on the inside angles with the outsides left vertical to act as rakers. The book mentions that the Grat American pattern is similar to the M so I think it should be vertical...
+Andrew Frudd Hi Andrew from vague memory I think I bevelled some and left others plain as thats how it had been done before both on this saw and another I had......I think your approach sounds right, and your justification makes very good sense...interesting.
Thanks, I will try do a bit more research but I am leaning towards leaving them vertical when I get round to filing mine.
@@andrewfrudd108 what did you conclude? I have two to restore
@@jackwheatley8 i didnt bevel the vertical sides
Hi - this seems to be very special - is there any manual out there how to exactly do the sharpening? Lots of videos cover different patterns. I have bought a factory-new saw, there are no bevels at all! Manufacturer says it is sharp, dealer says it is not, I have to re-sharpen it. But how exactly?
Could this be done faster with a Dremel?
Perhaps but it would be tricky to maintain the angle down the height of the tooth....I don't think I would manage that.