I've been a carpenter for 40 years. I use a job site table saw out in the field. I don't even own a big heavy shop saw. Here's a few things that I do for safe operation of a table saw. I always set the blade height to at least the gullet of the blade, but not too high, for saw dust clearing, and it also helps to keep the work piece down on the table and not float above the table. The blade also cuts better that way. I always check the rip guide with a tape measure at the front of the blade and also the back of the blade... I don't care how good the rip guide is. I always knock the back of the rip guide open a tad to make clearance for the board to pass through ( thats the #1 cause of kick back, no clearance on the back side of the blade.) I only use a push stick if I'm ripping something narrower than about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. When I push a board thru, I always wrap a a few fingers over the top of the rip guide, just in case something wants to pull my hand into the blade, my hand won't go there because I have most of my hand wrapped over the top and around the other side of the rip guide. The number one cause of accidents is just simply not respecting the possible dangers and not paying attention.
@dans4900 I posted this over a year ago. I've since obtained a nice heavy, 3hp cast iron saw for my shop with an awesome solid rip guide. I actually got it for free from a good friend. That one is perfectly parallel so that I can use it on either side of the blade. You can't knock that rip guide over like on a cheap job site saw.
And, as I just mentioned to this videos poster, no mention of a saw guard. Why he mentions safety without the mention of an upper saw guard is ludicrous. You too.
@rodneywheeler2278 A blade guard just gets in the way. If you're too stupid to keep your hand out of the path of the saw blade... maybe you shouldn't be using a table saw.
I am a retired pro who still works wood as a hobby. My dad was a professional cabinet maker/joiner all his adult life. He taught me to adjust the blade to where the gullets clear the wood, enabling good blade tracking, further, it promotes clearing excess cuttings from the blade while also it keeps the blade cooler. This has served me well. The only hospital visits I've had from woodworking are a cut experienced while sharpening a chisel, and a slightly shortened finger tip that occurred while jointing a board long past fatigue from a LONG day had set in. Don't work with power tools when brain fogged!
I would encourage any novice or experienced woodworkers to follow the advice offered up by this gentleman. I’m an old-time woodworker who incidentally only has 7 fingers remaining -Yes, I too was bitten by a table saw, amputated 3 digits from my left hand instantly. It’s too late for me but this gentleman is trying to help prevent further injuries to people and I respect & appreciate his efforts -Listen to his words. Nice job on the video by the way. Cheers from Toronto.
I got nicked once in my 42 years woodworking and it was ripping PVC which is slippery stuff, had the blade 1/8 above and walked away with a little more than a scratch. Did have kickback one time when I was just beginning ripping parquet flooring, took a piece right to the chest. Accidents do happen because the saw doesn’t care and one moment of disrespect and it’s not good. No music playing, wife knows not to distract me. I know guys who have gotten bitten by joiners,table saws, radial saws. Good video
I disagree, I do detailed cuts with the table saw and before I could afford a Sawstop I was using a contractors table saw on the floor (tile covered in sawdust) I slipped a little and my thumb got bit by the saw. Had I not set the depth so the saw was just peeking out of the top of the wood, I wouldn't be able to play video games with my son or piano anymore.
@@DrManhattan84, you found the best compromise for the stock you were cutting, the task at hand, and your equipment! Very glad that you escaped a maiming. Enjoy every minute that you can, with your son!
@@DrManhattan84 Precisely. I made a grave error 4 months ago, because I was tired. It wasn't an accident, it was a case of me being half asleep after working 10 hours in construction. I set the blade low, but did everything else wrong. I had a severe kickback, and if the blade had been just 1/2" higher, I would have lost 4 fingers. But I set the blade about 1/4" above the wood, and I only cut about 1/4" into 4 of my fingers. The blade hit the bone, and took chips out of the bone in 2 fingers. But my fingers are fine, and I didn't' lose any fingers. But the thought that I came SO close to losing 4 fingers, is traumatizing and I haven't been able to use my saw again until I completely rebuild it with a riving knife or splitter.
Another thing that is very important is to have respect for the tool. A lot of people have accidents because they get careless. And I never, ever rush at the table saw. If I do not have enough time to take my time, then I quite for the day and pick back up tomorrow. I have been woodworking for 30 years and I do enough woodworking to have gone through 3 table saws. I do more than week end projects, and I still have all my digits and plan on keeping it that way. And PPE is an absolute must. I cannot even imagine cutting anything without eye protection. You only get one set of fingers and 1 pair of eyes. It is up to you to keep them in tact.
@@SirTools absolutely. You know that saying, measure twice cut once. Well sometimes I measure 3 and 4 times. Also, layout on the plywood sheet is important to prevent waste. I know how to sew and I realized one day, that cutting into plywood is like cutting pattern pieces out of fabric. You lay pattern pieces out to get the most out of your fabric, and you should do the same when you are cutting into plywood. I cannot stand waste. And everyone at the house knows not to 'clean up' my shop for me. They will throw away pieces that they think are scraps. They do not understand that those 'scrap' pieces could still get some life squeezed out of them. Small trim; jig setups, etc.
Interesting! Thanks for the info. I used to do it the old school way. Decades ago I tired of having sawdust thrown at me so I dropped the blade to 1/8" above the wood surface along with a proper push stick/push block. I am a professional woodworker of over 40 years. No kickbacks ever. The key is a sharp blade. I've cut through the nastiest of wood with a sharp blade without issue. I have found that it's the cheap blades that are the most expensive in the long run.
1. Sawdust is the least dangerous thing a table saw will ever throw at you. 2. “Professional” means that you get paid to do it, not that you’re an expert in the best practices for safety. Johnny Knoxville and all the transvestite prostitutes on Hollywood Boulevard are also professionals. 3. None of the people in the world’s cemeteries had ever made a fatal mistake before. There’s a first time (and a last time) for everything.
Totally agree. Keeping a sharp blade on the saw solves so many problems whether it’s a table, or a circular saw. A dull blade will cause the wood to lift up and kick back plus it makes an ugly cut. It also makes the machine work harder and wear out faster.
Safety is not a device, it's a state of mind based in full awareness of the risks involved in the activity. High blade reduces kickback, low blade reduces exposure to the blade. I say it's a tossup for safety. As for quality of cut, high blade could give a smoother face of the cut, but low blade reduces tearout on the face of the board. So quality is a tossup there, too. Using a sharp blade with good set, and keeping the board tight to the fence are probably the most important factors in safety and cut quality in terms of saw setup.
Back in 1969 my High School shop teacher demonstrated how dangerous table saws are, no guards, no riving knife, blade as high as it would go, we all stood behind him as he dropped a scrap of 2x4 on top of the blade and we watched as it flew 50 feet to the back wall and shatter, have never had a problem with power tools as I respect them.
I totally agree with you I'm 73 years old first time I used a table saw I was 12 years old I still have all my fingers if I can see the blade I have sense enough to keep my fingers out of it thanks appreciate it
Good info, thanks. I been woodworking since around 1960 and I am a retired safety expert. I really get ticked at these young youtube kids with missing fingers trying be a safety expert. Woodworking as with any job or hobby using power tools poses risks. A smart person will assess the risks, hopefully take some sort of action to minimize them and make the cut. As you correctly pointed out: with the blade low (as most youtubers say is the best and safest, that in itself introduces a SECOND hazard of a higher chance of kickback). And along with that higher risk of kickback comes a higher chance that your hand will end up coming into contact with the blade during the kick back event...so much for being the safest way. I just watched that happen yesterday on a video where the blade was really low, it kicked back a piece of wood that pushed/pulled his hand across the blade causing serious injury. I, like you am old school and keep my blade a little higher, use feather boards, push sticks or whatever is appropriate to keep me as safe as possible and enjoy the hobby. I just finished a 36X36 oak Carrom Board one side/Checker board other side. Loving retirement and woodworking. Be safe.
I think it would have been good especially for beginners to explain the importance of aligning the blade straight with the table, and likewise the fence aligned with the table. Another VERY important point to mention is keeping the fence out of way when crosscutting using the miter gauge. I’ve used a table saw for nearly 60 years, and a couple of years ago, I let my common sense lapse for a second, and a short piece got trapped and flew out like a bullet. It struck me on the right side of my chest, and man did it ever hurt! I had abrasions, a bruise, and was sore for about 2 weeks. And finally, standing to the side a bit, out of the line of fire, is ultra important habit to develop! Good video, thanks for sharing, I’m sure lots of people will benefit from it!
I don't see this as a beginners topic. This is more for seasoned users that have been brow beat..."this is how you do things" Just my opinion. He's talking about dark side topics, not beginners safety... they can get that from stumpy or anybody else.
I’ve been wood working since the late 70’s up until about 5 years ago I had never heard of kick back or knew what it was. I went to work for a small scale furniture maker. I’d never experienced it. I never knew what a riving knife was supposed to do as I always removed all the safety stuff. Same with the blade hight. Always have the blade about an inch above the work piece. I too have never experienced kickback.
I agree with using a high blade. been using a table saw for 55 years, never a splitter or guard and running the blade higher has less chance or kickback. on thiner rips, I hang a finger over the fence as I push through. Safety is great but wisdom exceeds fear. If your that afraid of a saw- don't use one.
Excellent share, C&T! The simplest and most logical reason I was ever given for rip cutting with the blade up high was, "...if you can clearly see it, then you will avoid it!" (let's call this Lesson 1). As for kick-back - yeah, just don't stand there! EVER! (Lesson 2). ...for all the working contractors out there (who can scarce afford time off due to severe injury)... Lesson 3: ALWAYS take off your so-called contractors' gloves before operating any shop tool, and... Lesson 4: If it's someone else's table saw on your jobsite, have THEM make the cuts - they know that machine way better than you do. ...and finally for all of us... Lesson 5: SLOW DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION! (I have learned all these lessons the HARDEST way possible, I regret to report.)
I see you refurbished that old craftsman table saw. I bought one a few years back that didn't have a fence. I ended up putting a accusquare fence on it. Best investment I've made. Good to see someone still using the older saws.
Been cutting wood for decades, but even today, after all the experience I’ve gained over the years, I cut scared. That freaking blade scares me. That is why I make every cut like a new chapter in my life and the ending, a happy one. My beloved father said to me long time ago “know where your fingers are at all times.” Thanks, Dad. Yes, I know where you are. God bless!
Same here, I don't know that I feel like I'd use the word scared but definitely a massive level of respect just a notch less than fear to the dangers that are inherent to a table saw but also tempered with some confidence. That balance is good to keep from making a mistake out of timidness while also giving it the massive caution the dangers merit. In the thirty years I've used table saws I've never lost that respect for the dangers or allowed complacency to set in.
this makes sense to me. Have to say though, In all of my years of using a table saw, the only times I've come close to hurting myself are when I'm trying to rush, or I'm distracted. I've got an old saw without a riving knife and there's no doubt it's a dangerous machine, but my rule is NEVER rush and avoid any possible distraction. No music, podcast, friends, pets, day dreams, ect, when the table saw is being used. Also, if you're trying an unusual cut, or a new material, make sure you know what you're doing and understand the potential hazards first. It's those unforeseen issues that catch you off guard.
And just like the C-130 that had a big red line on the fuselage marking the rotation plane of the props, stay out of the rotational plane of the blade. I always stand off center so if the board does get launched back I will not be there.
Yep, very sound advice. I'm saying this because of an incident that happened to me quite a few years ago. Although this happened on a jointer instead of the table, it can apply to anything in the shop that has a sharp, spinning and exposed edge to it. I was using my jointer and while doing so I sliced my fingernail off. The main reason this happened? Overconfidence. I'd used this machine so often it was like second nature to me. It means that there was almost no concentration on what I was doing. I was very lucky because my finger is still on my hand and still works normally - minus most of the fingernail. Since this happened I have become just a little bit afraid of these tools when using them and I was telling someone who has a lot more experience me. He said that this can be a good thing because it ensures that I am checking, double checking and then triple checking what I'm doing before I begin my cut. This bit of fear makes me aware of the sharp spinning blade.
A girl I went to school with used the shop table saw to commit suicide. This tool is no joke, I saw a 1 inch by 1 inch piece of oak about 2 feet long, kick back and break 3 of a guys ribs...
As a professional Wood Machinist/Joiner taught by some very talented, old school guys. I was always told a high blade reduces the cut surface (amount of blade to wood contact) but gives a rougher cut because of the exit angle. A low blade height increase the cut surface, and therefore the force needed to push the timber through as well as the work done by the motor, but the exit angle will give a cleaner cut. I generally stay in the middle ground and adjust the height based on what I’m trying to achieve
Professional wood machinist from the 1960s. Try using a finer blade, raising the blade and FFS use a riving knife and a blade guard. Seen too many fingers on the dusty floor. If you use the guard, you can raise the blade and you only have a small area on the front of the blade showing. It also helps to stop kick back, that’s what the riving knife is for. It stops the wood from gripping the blade. Push sticks are useful. Be safe woody.
I'm on the high side. If your blade is too low crosscutting (now really expensive) hardwood plywood you'll get tear out even with a still sharp hi end blade on both sides. Good side up and a 3/8-1/2" high blade and your good to go.
I just watched your video on using a table saw. It was the first “real” wood working tool I got. I experienced kickback early on and have not used it since because of this. My Dad gave me a set of push blocks, but still I haven’t pulled the saw back out. Thank you for not only sharing the different aspects of safety, but also the clear and simple way you explained the how and why. I’m glad I found your videos and have subscribed. Looking forward to watching more of the good info you share!
@@SirTools Any tool is most dangerous when you are afraid of it... Start small, and have someone come and work with you with it until you are comfortable. It's always a good idea to have a shop buddy around when you are learning to use a new tool, someone to dial 911...
I've been woodworking for 40 years and have had very few incidents with kickback. The other day I was using my homemade tapering jig to taper some legs. I had it all set up and then I realized I didn't have my zero clearance insert installed. Big mistake. The wedge of the taper came off and went inside the insert and bam. It sounded like a m80 going off. It broke one of my garage door windows and I felt the breeze of something barely missing my head even though I was standing to the side of the saw. I learned my lesson and I was lucky. I had to say a little prayer after that.
For sure. The little bits falling into the standard plate have been 99% of the sketchy things to happen with my saw. Really need to get a zero clearance
Thanks for the video & your perspective. More than 40 yrs of carpentry, wood working & cabinet making. I can't even remember for certain from whom or where I learned my preferred blade height. I suspect it was as a young apprentice. I was taught to set the blade height high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety. This means I always raise the blade at apex or top of the blade which is the highest point above the wood/work piece so that the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is just above the piece being cut. About 1/16" - 1/8". This allows for clean, non burning cuts, allows the blade to fully eject the debris, chips, sawdust (that's what the gullets are for). This in turn helps keep the blade from over heating & running cool. It also places the front teeth in a downward trajectory at the leading edge/front to avoid kickback but the blade isn't so high that it will remove a whole finger. Best of both worlds. Relatively low blade exposure. High enough to cut straight, cleanly & with minimal heat build up by ejecting cut debris while minimizing kickback. I also always apply this method to my circular/skill saws. The blade is set just deep enough so that the bottom of the gullet is just below the work piece. Cheers from the west coast of Canada.
I've had a SawStop for four years, and even though I'm old, I'm still a beginner. Just recently I read the recommendation to set the blade height such that the gullet clears the board being cut. The explanation was that doing so allows the blade to clear the sawdust better. Well, except for the initial cut approximately the width of the upper portion of the blade, there's no sawdust doesn't get trapped in the gullet until the blade is rotating from 12 o'clock and into the wood. Once the gullet clears the bottom of the board, the sawdust will hopefully be sucked into the dust collection. Until the blade rotates back to the 12 o'clock position, I don't see where there is any sawdust in the gullet. I'm willing to stand corrected. Second, as far as the angle of cut is concerned with a higher blade creating a steeper angle of cut, are the angles of the teeth today the same as they were 50 years ago? It seems that by the teeth leaning forward, they can achieve a greater angle of cut with a lower blade height. I have no clue what I'm talking about on this one. As far as push sticks are concerned, the only "kickback" I've had so far was when I carelessly knocked my push stick/block over into the blade. Luckily it hit me in the arm and not in the face or chest. It could have been bad. Live and learn. Now I never leave anything where it can be knocked over into the blade.
The lower blade will cut at a different angle, particularly the rear of the blade. A high blade the teeth are nearly 90 degrees to the table, increasing the risk of the board being cut lifting. A lower blade will also shorten the length of the blade exposed also lessening the risk of kickback. After having said this I tend to use the blade where it was set on the last use. If I notice, particularly thin wood or ply, that it’s jumping or tending to lift, I will lower the blade.
Since the 70’s as a professional carpenter I have most always set the blade 1/8 - 1/4” higher than the materials that I am cutting with my table saw. ALSO I wont turn the saw on without wearing safety glasses ALWAYS !
@@wardmontgomery9259 I agree, Safety glasses cannot be emphasised enough, apart from the sawdust, a splinter with force behind it can do a lot of damage!
@@markcomptube An excellent home builder in Kansas City, MO lost use of an eye as a young apprentice from a nail still in a board he was cutting. Safety glasses, for sure. Thank you.
I was taught to put the bottom of the gullet of the tooth above the piece. So, it varies in height, but you essentially always have a minimum of a full tooth and a hair above the wood. I get good cuts, it isn't high enough to fully sever a finger in one go, and it reduces the force needed to push the piece through. For running very thin pieces through the table saw I just use a feather-board and a push-block. The feather-board applies lateral pressure, and also prevents any easy kickback, so all I have to do is apply forward and down pressure with the push block/stick from above.
I was told to adjust blade so the bottom of the gullet of the tooth is even or just a hair above the surface of the wood you are cutting so it helps make the blade to run cooler and to more easily eject wood chips that gather in the gullets. Any suggestions?
I was always told (and followed) my shop teachers advice in the 80s that the blade should always be above the piece by one full tooth. Never had an issue.
Hi, I live and work in the UK. Our saw fences and systems were very different to yours in the USA, Different remember I didn't say better. I started in the shop at age 15 (1965)as an apprentice. The fence would typically not extend beyond the gullet of the saw tooth nearest to the operator. This was to reduce the chance of kickback. The first full-length fence I saw was on an imported contractor saw. It was and likely still is a legal requirement for saws to be fitted with a riving knife and a top guard ( in a workplace as opposed to a home shop) and to have a push stick with a birdsmouth cut and be least 14" long. many saws were not fitted with a rise and fall so the saw blade could be 8" out of the table. And of course, if the timber being cut was not true the round side would go towards the fence. Thanks for your video and everyone else's comments.
I can vouch for what you say too. Watching this movie my concerns are more about the extent of the fence beyond the cutting edge - cuts release the stresses in the wood (especially with fast grown cheap pine) that will sometimes result in a bow developing, so why have the fence press the wood into the back face of the blade? As for those cumbersome push devices, I doubt the wisdom of a full grip handle to wrap your fingers around, Id rather be able to just whip my hand away, and not remove it from a hole first.
I've been using a table saw 40 plus years. I agree, it is one of the most dangerous tools. I use the push tools also. Please don't forget, to not put yourself in the line of fire. Standing to the side is as important as keeping your fingers away. I've seen a few injuries from kick back. We can get into other things like feather boards, but safety is where it starts. Thumbs up and fingers out of way.
It may not happen as often, but a lock-on electric hand tool like a grinder is extremely hazardous if it catches you. People put a paddle sanding disk on a grinder, It can run out of control over a good portion of your body or head, and when it finally stops grabbing, its not because its off, but has burnt in where its not grabbing any more. Horrible injuries occur with spinning tools. Never use a lock-on trigger with grinders, drills, or rotating hand tools, chain saws, or routees. I know they save from fatigue, but in a split second its a mistake.
Thanks for the honest info! I was taught over 50 years ago that ALL power tools can hurt you and to respect them and know what the hell you're doing before using them. I always had "good" homeowner type table saws and in all these years had 1 kickback (into the gut) and no cuts. I raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet and always use a sharp blade. Equally important as keeping your hands away from the blade is to make sure the fence is properly aligned. I was taught Sharp is Safe. I've seen idiots get hurt using dull drill bits.
Well.. statistics don't lie. Table saw is more dangerous than all of those power tools. It's the least forgiving when you have a lapse in concentration..and no one is perfect in that department, you could little follow anyone on the road for a few miles and see a lapse in concentration in some way, so the more comfortable you become with something, the more likely you'll have those. I'd prefer to get comfortable with a track saw than a table saw... If something does happen, well probably nothing will. Life is more important than convenience.
A lower blade reduces the depth your saw can cut into a stray finger, but it also tripled or quadrupled the amount of wood in contact with the cutting teeth of the blade. A high saw cuts a much straighter line (almost verticle) reducing the amount of wood being grabbed by the teeth at any point in time. It's a matter of preference and your own comfort level in how much you pay attention and how in control you are when cutting. Choose your own adventure.... but do it wisely.
correct, when I was young, a friend of mine, his parents had a carpintary, they had a table saw, running a huge disc, and they ran it high as well. Due to it's 15KW, it was turning so fast, it didn't even grip wood, and even better, it had a movable slide, where you could put on the wood, and just launch it through the sawblade, it didn't even stop or move. I still put the saw high up.
When I started building cabinets about 16 years ago my boss taught me to put the blade up almost twice the thickness of the material. I'll be 35 tomorrow and still consider myself young. But after watching the video, reading these comments, and giving my comment, I'm beginning to think I'm old school myself.😄
@@SirTools Sometimes old school is more a way of thinking, rather than just how many times you've circled the Sun while living on this planet. I am 36 and have picked up some "old school" knowledge from my dad, and other elders who have been kind enough to share their knowledge (like yourself). Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Personal responsibility is another old school think I believe in. One needs to learn how to use the tool and respect it. I can't blame my accident on a youtube video if I were to make such an unfortunate mistake.
I was about to say the same thing. From blade height as double the wood thickness, for the best cut. Also that I, myself, am 35, till April that is. I learnt a lot from just watching my Pop in his shed doing wood work and metal work. It's a cousin of mine that took off the top of a finger on a band saw when he worked in a picture framing business. But I got my arm caught in the exposed gears of a metal lathe, while reaching to turn its power off. Oops
@@TheHungrySlug saws are bad enough but THAT worries me more. Rollers, printing presses, lathes, chains, and anything with gears exposed under power is extremely dangerous. All it has to do is grab a part of clothing, or PPE, and then it can pull you in and have it's way with you. It can happen so fast even trying to hit an e-stop might not prevent an accident. Hopefully it will safe your life but you might lose an arm in the meantime.
As a less-than-novice I see two forces at work. One is personal safely and the other is cut quality. I believe that we should NEVER sacrifice personal safely to obtain quality cuts nor to improve efficiency. Lumber is sold, cut, and get thrown away. However, from a tiny cut to a complete loss off some part of the body is permanent and not retrievable! Some old-school is good. However, don't forget the advances made to minimize the possibility of these injuries. I've learned that it's important to: 1. Keep pieces firmly pressed down on the table and against the fence! 2. Feed through material at a constant rate towards and past the saw blade. 3. Keep fingers well away as possible from the throat plate and blade. The only exception is when machine is unplugged for changing blades, throatplate, and cleaning. 4. Make use of an outfeed table or props. 5. Make us of some infeed prop so you could focus on a the pressure downwards to the table and sidewards to the fence! 6. Don't stand in the way of the smallest piece of material after the cut. It's the smallest pieces that tend to be more volatile. 7. Always endure that fence is not forcing material towards the blade while cutting! 8. Use all the safety 'gadgets' that came with your table saw; or those that are available after purchase. Think of them as your bodyguards. They are there to minimize and neutralize threats. 9. Your personal protection is your sole responsability! 10. Overconfidence, distraction, tiredness, rush, impatience are some of the most dangerous traits that undermine your personal safety! Remember, the finest piece of woodworking that you can ever make is your safety!
Years ago as a newbie, I set the blade "too high" according to modern recommendations. When I learned I was supposed to have the blade low and tried it, it made cutting a lot harder (presumably due to greater friction) and I got more burning. To me, it also seemed intuitively more dangerous from a kickback perspective, especially when cutting something like a large flexible panel that could easily lift up and get on top of the blade.
Great stuff you have covered here. I would like to add that the use of your push blocks (the type with a heel hook) GREATLY reduces potential issues due to greater control of the work piece and likely reducing the benefit of having more blade exposed. The second item (using your test piece of 1x4 pine) is that it keeps the piece DOWN tight to the saw top, which reduces the possibility of the rear of the board lifting and being introduced to your face at high velocity! Not really obvious, but that test piece has a slight cup to it and was rocking on the saw top. When cutting shorter boards like that, I am always more concerned of kickbacks from the rear lifting, as opposed to kickbacks from blade binding, etc. Maybe paranoid, but I never rip anything shorter than about 30". My saw is a 40 year old Delta, with no guard or riving knife, but I have a whole fleet of push blocks. Those can easily be rebuilt. My fingers, not so much. Although useful in some situations, I usually don't like the old school 'chicken foot' push stick. Those can contribute to the board lifting, IMHO.
Yeah I usually work alone and in different places so its hard to properly setup a ideal work area. The lifting at the back is always sketchy or if a peace is laying there lol and sometimes holding a peace down with a as it spins I'll carefully shut the machine off and finish taking the peaces out when its stopped so not to wedge it while on and you're shifting positions
Excellent information. My neighbor gave me a very old table saw yesterday, with zero safety features. I haven't used a table saw in over 50 years, and then only in shop class. And more than 25 years ago I lost my left arm in an electrical accident. I've been getting into woodworking now and am using a circular saw, power planer, miter saw and router. It's fun and I take a lot of precautions. After watching this video I'm wondering if I can ever safely use a table saw, let alone the antique my neighbor gave me.
I don't know about the power planer, but of all the other power tools you use, I think the table saw can be the safest in your situation because it's set in one place, held the table, guided by wall etc. I would figure out how stand away from the line of cutting towards the side of the scrap wood which is the least likely to fly towards you at the end of the cut. Do a bunch of trial cuts on scrap wood just to get a feel for it. If you don't feel safe and you can more or less tell why that is, follow your intuition. But if you can't really tell why you're afraid, it may be just because you feel at a disadvantage physically, but not necesserilly because something is actually wrong. Good luck and I admire your drive to create.
I spent 30+ years working in cabinetry and display work. I always set my blade at the notch at the bottom of the tooth, about a 1/4 to 3/8" above the wood. I also used the splitter/anti kick behind the blade, this insures that if there is any binding after the cut it will not close up and of course no kick back. The biggest detriment to table saw safety is repetition, working one operation all day one can become lackadaisical and start to drift mentally. Time to take a break.
Absolutely. I am trying to pull metal splinter out of my knuckles right now from getting lazy with my grinder. Luckily I haven’t had any close ones with the table saw yet
Just finished watching the video. I have always have the attitude that I keep the blade just high enough to let the edge clear below the gap behind the teeth. No matter whether it is carbide or all steel design. Just keeping it below yet above allows debris to flow away from the area. Nice hat, which tells me you and I have a background of working on planes. Mine was with C-123,”White Whale” and 121s with ADC back in the 60s. Look forward to watching more videos.
I agree. I bet the reason that most injuries are on the table saw is because it is the most used. My 35 year old saw has none of the safety devices left, the guard and antikickback did not work. I am always careful and use common sense. No injuries. There has been kickback, but I stand to the side and out of the way.
Hello, just found this channel. I always cut with the blade high. Your common sense explanation is right on. You can prove this all with geometry, trig, vectors and the whole engineering thing. My first table saw was one I made when I was in my mid-teens and I've been using them ever since. That is some distance above fifty. Also, been around sawmills, large remanufacturing saws, etc. The best safety tool is to watch what you are doing and keep your hands away from the blade. Some wood, especially green, will have stresses in it and will kick back. You have to account for it. Using a hollow ground blade helps. A sharp blade is essential. Some years back, while taking some survey classes at a Community College, I had to rip some rough old lumber into survey stakes in the wood shop. The wood instructor launched into me for having the blade above the board. The stakes didn't get cut. It was too dangerous to cut that stuff in that way.
Interesting. Your comment and this video convinced me to go experiment with all kinds of stuff. I can get green stuff, too. I forgot about that. Thank you
I was taught 50% higher than the wood. I vary that depending on thickness and other factors. The biggest thing is awareness of where my fingers are and where the blade is, as well as where the material is. No loose clothes, don't work too fast, make sure someone is nearby, and absolutely no cutting if tired.
listening to the Wood cut is the Key to a Clean cut. And Feeling the resistance as well as Observation of Density of the Wood, denser the wood reduction of speed. " A variable speed Electrical switch in line of power cord will do wonders for cutting on a table saw.
I'm just now at age 59 getting back into woodworking. My fear of my Craftsman table saw blade is no less now than back in woodshop in the late 1970's. I'm really glad you took the time to talk about blade heights because its something I dont ever remember learning but I wonder about it every single time I use the saw. IMHO: part of being safe is being efficient. If a blade is cutting sharp and efficient then you dont use as much force to guide it through your cut. Less force means less chance of slippage. I only have high school woodshop for experience but I once witnessed a piece of wood kick back and stick into a concrete wall behind the perhaps donkeyish teen boy making the cut. Also: the Safety shield I remember using seemed to get in the way more than keep you safe. I've never tried a nerd or whatever but that seems like a good thing to try. I think most important is common sense and no distractions. As an amateur I really try to take my time. Sometimes I get in the Zone where everything just flows...but without experience that is rare. Thanks again...I am going to try raising my blade higher...like 200-250% of the thickness of the piece being cut. Up until I watched your video I was adjusting the blade so that the throat of the blade was just coming out of the top of the wood surface but like you said that makes more friction and raises the risk of kickback.
Now days it is all about safety and heck, that's not a bad thing. I just wanted the old school out in the open for all to see and understand we had reasons too :)
I started cabinet making around 1992. About 30 years and my favorite job was always cutout on table saw. Those days are gone with CNC but table saw still is needed. I use saw same way with blade about 1/2" to 3/4" above piece. Never been cut, had a few kick backs (never hurt) but learned what not to do.
Having had a close encounter with a blade that left a memorable kerf in my right first metacarpal, I no longer get closer than a sturdy push pad/stick.
I liked how u spent the time & were personable. U explained both sides. Within the video u provide choices in real-time experience, thank you sir. I plan to utilize ur words as a "tool" in a single case sinario. I'm rambling, I'm 38 w/ 3yrs experience, taught in work experience.
The two best things I have ever done for my saw setups are: Use a high fence, set one inch or more than the max blade height as a limit for my hand. The second thing is to have a proper long out feed table, which lets me push a piece out smoothly. I resent being on the short end of a lever, thus tricking me to force the wood down onto the table near the end of its cut. (The most dangerous part of the sawing I have seen is not having a dedicated out feed table. Those twig-trees and helpers cause more havoc holding a piece out there. YOU need to be in control of the cut!!!!) The Low Blade Safety ASSUMPTION maximizes the approach angle, and maximizes the tooth force tangential of the blades radius. This vectors forces which razes the work piece. In other words you can feel the board rise up when sett up like this, especially with slightly dull blade. Also, when set low, tooth time in contact with the wood is at maximum, creating heat, and if the material is dense like oak forget-about-it! 5000 RPM is 83 rotations per second. Multiply that by the number of teeth on the blade to find how many teeth per second. Saws with 1.5 to 3 HP always bog at the operators feeding rates.
Roller stand is good and at least you can move it to suit your space and timber length. Also like a lot of guys I often work alone in a room full of kit that can kill you so I wear a pair of 'Oregon' chainsaw gloves, designed to stop a chain saw and keep your fingers attached to your hands. Brilliant product and I use them on anything like saws, planers hand held or bench type it doesn't matter. Use on the band saw too. My gloves cost about £29 here in the UK, worth double. Riving knife and top guards if set up right are good too, never had cause not to use them.
I've been using a table saw over 50 yrs also. I was 19 and I worked in a cabinet shop, 8 hrs a day on the table saw. The guy that ran the shop was an oldtimer like I am now. Even after all these years seeing the blade up high like that gives me the creeps. You never want to do that.
Years ago, at the beginning of that years woodshop class one of the first things my Woodshop teacher in junior high did was hold up the table saw's fence and told us students that, that fence was the most dangerous piece of the table saw, and that if it was used improperly while using it during the process of cross-cutting boards it would more than likely cause the "abuser" (meaning the table saw user), a horrific amount of undue pain and suffering due to the possibility of creating a dangerous "Kick-Back" situation when the board being cut became twisted and jammed itself between the table saw blade and the fence. He stated that it was called a "Rip Fence", and that it was called a "Rip Fence" for one reason, and one reason only. It was to be used only for ripping boards in combination with a ripping blade, and was not to be used during the process of cross-cutting boards in combunation with a Cross-Cutting blade. He then explained to us students that if he observed (or caught), any of us students using that "Rip Fence" during the cros-cutting process, or even if it was sitting on top of the table saw during the cross-cutting procedure, he would immediately cease all woodshop procedures (until he returned from the principles office), and then would escort that student to the principles office to discuss safety procedures with the principle, then write up a written report pertaining to what occurred, and temporarily suspend that student from the use of the wood shop, and its equipment for two weeks, and would give that student a failing grade for that semester. That woodshop teacher was mighty serious about "Safety in the Woodshop", and I have never forgotten either that woodshop teacher, or his "Safety " message pertaining to the proper use of the "Rip Fence".
I would say even as recent as 30yrs ago the high blade position was still the norm. Always used it had the top of the circle clear of the wood in the scene shops when doing cuts. Still do it to day as I am just as comfortable with the low blade position. Wood always feels unstable as described.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
Great video, thank you. I might recommend keeping the music bed for intros, transitions/segues, and outros, and just let us curious folk listen to your voice and your "entertainment only" message. Great stuff, thank you!
I started using table saws before blade guards and kickback prevention. I was shown that you can get kickback if your fence is not repeatably accurate, meaning that if the rear of the blades is closer to the fence than you get a pinching effect across the blade when pushing it through and more surface contact, so I was taught to measure both the front and rear of the blade and make them even or actually slightly further from the fence at the rear to prevent kickback.
The only time I had a kickback accident was when I lowered the blade. It was nasty and split the end of my finger in an instant. Geeez it hurt. I now set the blade with the bottom of the gullet at the level of the timber, plus a riving knife to prevent the timber closing on the blade.
My dad would lower the blade all the way down, unplug the saw, and remove the belt when he was done using his table saw. I do not remember him teaching me how to use it or explicitly giving me permission to use it. I guess he figured if I had passed wood shop in middle school and was strong enough to drag the saw out of the furnace room into the basement, and get the v-belt back on, I must be okay to run it.
Thanks for sharing your experience, expertise and honest advice. I am a retired guy just getting into woodworking and binge-watching RUclips videos on table saw safety. One of my first purchases after getting a Dewalt DWS7491RS was a GRR-RPPER 3D Push Block and a Bench Dog Push-Bloc Push Pad. Now I feel like I can begin to make cuts much more safely and build a couple sleds more safely to get started. Tried to work with the single plastic push stick that came with it and quickly realized that was going to be a non-starter for me.
If the high blade helps prevent kickback at the cost of increased risk of cutting, then the obvious solution is to keep the blade low but use a riving knife to eliminate the kickback. Alternatively, use a good blade guard and don't worry about the height so much.
I live in the UK. and recently found a well known router manufacturer market a spray for wood cutting tools . This spray will stop resins and glues from plywood and OSB board sticking to your blades and works as a lubricant on saws. I tried it and got a much a more efficient and smoother cut on my saw table. Very impressed.
I'm with you, I've always made my cuts with the blade about 1/2" above the wood or high enough to clear the cutouts in the teeth. I always thought that was to aid chip extraction, which prevents binding, which prevents kickback. How much of that is true I don't really know, but it has worked well for me over the past 30 years or so. Hasn't hurt the one carbide all-purpose blade I've been using over most of that time either. Still makes superfine cuts that don't need sanding. Cheaper blades tended to burn the wood so I stopped using them.
Keeping the blade up helps hold wood down. Lower the blade, the wood wants to ride over the blade. Blade 1/2" high can cut off fingers like it happened to me. I passed out during a cut, lost my pinky with other damage. Nothing can prevent that except sawstop which now i have.
@@sawman231 exactly this. Most manufacturers of blades recommend this height for an optimal cut, chip and dust extraction, and not too high for safety reasons
@@brucemiller1696, thanks for the testimony, pal, it will help keep another person safe, I know this. I really hope that you have, or will, recover full function! L
I don't offer this as criticism, but rather to inform. You make a good video with valuable information for all woodworkers. We "tune" in to learn and the music in the background only interferes with the communication. Sorry to be negative.
6:34 Very poor argument. 1: The teeth are wider than the "body" of the blade, so the only thing in direct contact with the wood is the side of the teeth themselves. If you let the blade guide the board, you will cut into the edge already done with the upward going teeth, which is one of the main causes for kickback. 2: You have a MUCH longer guide right on the other side of the board (aka the rip fence)... ;) Not making a cut because it feels unsafe, is probably the best advice anyone can give you. If a cut feels unsafe, mostly it's because it is! I have aborted a cut more than once because it just fealt wrong.
The back and forth you're showing in the 12:00 timeframe makes puts a lot into perspective, and explains the "kickback" you said you were getting Yes, the lower the blade the less likely you are to be considered for the next Cpt Hook audition But ALL of the pushing force is straight back (maybe you said it sooner) Effectively what's happening - as you're showing by manhandling the blade directly, it isn't terribly sharp - is it relies on the tearing force and inertia of going the 5k rpm's you mentioned It's more accurate then to say this "efficiently tears" the wood than "cuts through" it I feel like I'm rambling now, but the bottom line is as long of you are using something to extend your reach of the board across the table safely, medium-high blade is ultimately safer than the "as low as possible" which is more likely to cause some part of what you're dealing with to smack you in the gut and potentially lead to all sorts of dangerous hi-jinx
I like the blade a little higher also, seems safer and does seem to guide the wood thru the cut. Also use push sticks and feather boards when needed and something you didn't mention was to use a "SHARP"saw blade. A dull blade will get you into trouble.
@Bamboo Training Two things on a dull blade, it will "burn" going through wood and also you'll have to "push" harder on good wood. A lot of times it just needs cleaning :)
Totally agree with the high blade. And you said another word several times.... CONTROL. Make sure you are always in control of the work, either with your hands or with push stick(s), and keep it smoothly moving as much as you can. Don't leave work sitting between the fence and the spinning blade and get distracted and leave it uncontrolled for a millisecond. Work sitting between the fence and a spinning blade uncontrolled is about to become a missile, aimed straight at YOU. If you need to stop for some reason (heart attack, ninja attack, sudden onset of overwhelming existential angst), keep the work under control and reach down and switch off the saw, and keep the work under control until the blade spins down. Great video. This video will save some fingers.
I will pay attention and obey anyone who has been making sawdust as long as you and still has all 10 fingers! Thank you for passing along solid information and being concerned about us!
The worst kick back I ever got was from ripping with the cutoff narrower than the outboard opening of my face plate. I was needing some thin veneer faces for covering plywood edges. It splintered at a small knot and dove into the opening. I heard it before I saw it… but still couldn’t hit the stop before it came back at me. I ducked just in time to have it whiz by my ear. That startled me and I let loose of the push block. It hit the blade snd was thrown back also. The wider portion of the board rose up on the saw blade and skidded much slower back toward me as well. That split second taught me a couple of lessons… 1. Use a zero clearance insert when cutting narrow edges from parts… or just joint them some other way instead. In this case I was needing to use the narrow edge. 2. I’m not faster, stronger, tougher or smarter than a tablesaw. So, spend as much time and effort as it takes to do a safe setup! As far as the secret goes… I’m an old fart too. I use a riving knife on every cut that I can. And blade height… I split the difference. The norm for me is for a full tooth to protrude above the wood. It is lower than the thickness of my push block yet high enough to have that downward cut that gives the cleanest cut. I’d like to add one more thing… all of the new saws come with plastic push sticks. That should be outlawed. The only time I’ve been cut on my saw was when the brittle plastic push stick hit the blade. It shattered and a shard imbedded in my cheek. When I wrote to the manufacturer they sent me another one with a full page set of instruction on how to use it safely. Both of which went directly in the trash!
You've had some bad times. Thanks so much for sharing this info. The video is about height of blade , old reasons VS the new safety ideas. The Riving Knife is another video perhaps ?
Many people are saying the blade should be high enough that the bottom of the gullet is just clear of the work to efficiently remove the sawdust and increase the cooling of the blade. I always use Push sticks and/or push blocks. You gave the most important piece of advice quite early into the video. "Keep your hands away from the blade"!
I like the balanced argument you presented on this. Blade above or blade below(level) has been a huge controversy so it is nice to see that not everything is as it seems. Kinda what I had always thought, but nice to hear that I was on to something. Thank you! :)
@@SirTools I see what ya did there. LOL, Your right on the warping. As the metal on the blade heats up the blade slightly warps from the pressure of spinning and impacting the wood if I remember how that works correctly(I am not a thermal engineer LOL). So I guess the question at that point, would be what keeps the blade cooler? Hmmm... My guess would be the blade raised would keep the blade cooler, and thus would warp less during the cut because it has all be it a small-time, but some time to get away from the wood into cooler temperatures. Kind of like the concept of an air-cooled engine. Just a therory, but we will have to wait to see what you come up with on that! :)
Understanding the physics that is going on when using a table saw is a significant part of being safe. Most of the guys that I know that have gotten hurt just didn’t understand what they were doing. The other ones were doing something repetitive and got complacent.
You mentioned you've been using a table saw for 50 years and I noticed you still have all your fingers! So I'm thinking you know what your talking about. Lol! But seriously, I've only been into wood work for a few years and the only time I've had a board get squirrely on me is when the blade was in a lower position. So this makes total sense. Thanks 😊
Back in the 70's I was taught for both table saws and circular saws to set the cutting depth to half the gullet depth. I've been running with that ever since. Nice cuts and safe, never been hurt. Oh yeah, push blocks are a necessity for table saw safety!
@@soujrnr I can't insert a pic here, so just google it. It is the deep curve right behind the teeth. My understanding is it is where the sawdust goes immediately after a tooth cuts through the wood fibers. Having the gullet exposed gives more escape route for sawdust than a blade sitting low that is buried in the wood.
I have a tremendous amount of respect for table saws... and I use one. I was shown and taught by my Dad not to get the gullet above the workpiece or " You're just asking for trouble, Son". I miss my Dad, but I still heed his teaching and it has served me well, knock on wood. We, and later me, built a lot of "stuff" together. Low teeth and push blocks work. OMG...".... unplugged..". Lmao!! Really"deflated" the egos of the Pseudo Safety Warriors...lolol 😂! Thanks for the demo/info! 👍!
Perspective. I think the main reason that the table saw is the number one piece of equipment that people get injured on, is because it's by far the one piece of equipment that most all woodworkers have. Great video.
While that is certainly true, safety training other than on You Tube is basically "accidental"! Splitters and riving knives will prevent 98% of kickbacks and are not very well understood, so they remain in the drawer with the blade guard attached, at least mine did until I realized what function they perform. Prior to reinstalling my splitters, I did have a few kickbacks and they were painful. After putting them back on I've had none! Those slender push sticks that provide no down pressure and often used in pairs are a safety hazard and prone to sliding along the workpiece.
I always cut with the blade low and I've still got all off my fingers and have never experienced kickback, my dad always cut high and his nickname was stumpy.
Excellent advice for all. I personally set the blade depth at about 1/8" and I can testify that if I didn't practice that my left thumb would be a little shorter. With that said my incident would not have happened if I had not been distracted by my son-in-law. So my advice is first eliminate all distraction and second concentrate on the project and HAND!!!!
WOW. Yes so I wouldn't have any fingers left if I had the blade set 2" high. But I had a kickback, and I had the blade set just barely above the wood, and I got cut at the exact depth that the blade was protruding above the wood. My hand followed the wood backwards into the blade, and rode across the blade on the top of the wood. I cut half way into 4 fingers. They stitched me back up. I'm ok, but I haven't been able to use the saw in 4 months since it happened. I'll be installing a riving knife now.
In the UK and most of Europe you should NEVER operate a circular saw bench without a riving knife fitted to within 8mm of the blade and a guard must always be fitted and placed as near as practical to the work. Likewise when ripping solid timber the fence should never go past the gullet of the blade at bench level. I agree that you do get a better cut with the blade up high, really not too much of a problem if it is sufficiently guarded, generally though the advice is to set the blade low. We also say your hand should be a minimum of 300mm away from the blade so most of the sticks or grippers that are in use in the US would be illegal here in the UK. People, statistically this is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a wood shop keep the guard and riving knife fitted at all times and use a push stick of at least 350mm long and only use it for ripping and occasional crosscuts, there is far better equipment to cut grooves, rebates etc available. I do appreciate that different countries have different rules and what I have said will upset some but I say it with safety in mind.
Love this input from UK. Super thanks for this comment. I have some fellows in Germany right now sending me emails too. Telling me why did you release this darkest of secrets :)
I believe here its not allowed to sell saws without a riving knife and professional shops/ users have to use it. Workplace safety etc.. The us style fences are i think pretty dangerous.
@@joepmeloen3373 yep, but those are not laws they are HSE regulations and dont include your personal equipment in your own home, unless your using it in relation to a business
This is late to the party, but what I was taught as a machinist was to select my blades such that I would have three teeth in the work. I could use more, but there might be more heat from friction and drag as the teeth spring in (kerf narrowing) but if I used less I would be likely to break teeth in the work. The stress just isn't divided among enough cutters. That's for metalwork, but the same goes for wood. I set my table saw so I keep three teeth in the cut. If I'm ripping thick boards, fewer teeth on the blade so I don't have to stand it out so tall, and thin sheet, more teeth.
I was taught to clear the gullets by a blade manufacturer. They said that cools the blade enough to minimize burning and to clear any sawdust, but not so high that it guarantees that you'll lose an appendage.
I've been a carpenter for the last 40 years. In my career I know of four men who have lost a digit. One with a circular saw. The other three was a table saw. My experience tells me table saw by far most dangerous tool
I think one of the big reasons for kickback is rip fences that are not parallel to the blade, especially if the are closer at the rear of the blade. I have a couple of older Craftsman saws and frankly the rip fences are not very accurate. I think an accurate fence is probably the most useful thing you can do to prevent kickback to say nothing of putting out better work.
It's great to have a real vet explain this stuff and at the same time understand it all. I only started woodwork in July but it's gripped me :D After I bought a mitre saw everything became easier but I read the safety instructions properly and checked out loads of videos on how to properly use it. I DO have a table saw which I bought last month which I haven't had the opportunity to use yet as weather in England sucks but the blades you showed are exactly like the ones on mine with that dip. Got a new sub. Have a GREAT New Year mate : ]
Just never rush and always plan the cut before hand. Best wishes for the new year and glad to hear another wood worker has started the adventure. Hope to hear how your doing in the future !
Hi, lumber yards use very large circular saws normally at full depth of cut but they are usually used with the "work piece" in a carriage on guide rails. This is similar to my preferred approach on a table saw in that I use a fence on both sides of the work piece with clamped blocks on the left hand fence to stop the work piece lifting. Also an adjustable guard that covers the blade position is attached to the right hand fence and push sticks are used to feed in the work piece through the "jig" formed by the two fences. Admittedly more time to set up but gives very accurate, repeatable and safe cuts (particularly on a long work piece). Note; still not idiot proof and will not stop stop kickback due to blunt saws and excessive feed rates.
Thank you for this very informative video, I am an older like you and not much experience though - I was taught the way you do the blade at the higher depth so your video is a real eye opener. I have never been comfortable with the table saw after almost hitting a fellow student with a kickback board in shop class , so thank you.
Interesting... The way I set mine is to ensure the carbide tip in the highest point sticking above the board. It is because the lumber I worked with not always flat and sometimes bowl and twisted by 1/8 or more. It has to cut thru all of that. Most of the time, I just leave it 1/2"-ish above the board. However, I do use long pushing stick or block where my hand is at least 6" to 8" away from the blade.
Great show! Couldn't find anything to complain about. 50 years is about right for me as well, and I have never been hurt yet. I did have one instance of kickback that could really have hurt (cutting a product called Finform, 17 layer Birch I think, and razor sharp edges as it came through the blade ... but it missed me), but none since! The only thing I would add is a system that anybody that comes out to my shop knows to LISTEN, KNOCK, SPEAK LOUDLY before entering. The other thing is that I never take my eyes off of the blade. You're right, that machine will eat you alive if it gets its hand (blade) on you. Blade height for me is about ⅛", and no riven knife or plastic cover. Eye/ear protection, and an open shop door for the dust to leave. Tip: a ballistic vest will stop a bullet, but you are still going to the hospital.
1974 Craftsman Cast Iron tablesaw, I'm with you on the high side better cut , less heat with hard woods, still have 10 fingers and 2 thumbs.............
With the blade low it causes resistance throughout the entire cut… causing the board to want to rise up. A high blade cuts through immediately keeping the “ force to rise” very low. I don’t see a lot of safety with a low blade
Love what your doing. Many years ago when I was just starting, I was cutting live edge lumber to square it. The piece to the left of the blade, the live edge side, tampered down, broke loose at the blade and kicked back. A piece about 4 feet long tore into my t shirt just knicking me. If I had been a few inches to the right it would have gone into my belly. That is the only time I have seen left side kick back.
youch. radial arm saws make arrows fly. Blades are better now. Early carbide tips would fly off now and then. That was like getting hit with a bullet. I have been lucky. Chris
I don't feel the table saw is any more dangerous than any other power tool. It just has more potential to cause injury because there are more ways to misuse it than other power tools. The vast majority of table saw accidents are user error. Cutting pieces too small, removing blade guards, trying to cut warped wood, using a dull blade, not having respect for the tool which makes you complacent, working when too tired. Those are the main culprits and they are all user induced. I happen to live by the creed that the table saw is as dangerous as you let it. Follow safety procedures and stay focused on what you're doing and it won't hurt you. If you're getting tired, don't make that last cut. There's always tomorrow, unless you cut off a finger.
There is one problem with your assertion of keeping the blade high because "it keeps the board nice and straight" and that is that the kerf of the blade's teeth are slightly wider than the spinning disk they are mounted to, and the friction you feel keeping it in line is from the back teeth making contact with the board from behind. Yes, there is more distance with which the blade spans to allow less movement, but a Master carpenter will push his fence ever so slightly away from the blade at the far end to keep a board riding away from the fresh cut line, to avoid burn marks on his new line... this takes advantage of the leeway in the kerf of the blade and always gives you a 100% burn free line on the piece against the fence. The biggest thing about kickback is something being out of alignment, or a warped/twisted board. By using a "chicken foot" push stick in conjunction with a normal one, you can add a lot of distance and hold a board very close to the blade, (like a feather board) and give yourself a lot more control than just a regular push block or stick.
@ Chris Griffith, can you describe a ''chicken foot'' stick, compared to a ''normal one'', please? What I call a ''bird's mouth'' has just a notch cut into one end. Is that it?
The only time I ever yelled at and corrected my dad was because he reached over the table saw while it was running. Made me a nervous wreck. He was a careful man but, for a moment became in a hurry and was rushing. I straightened him out, really made me look at our relationship different from then on. I jumped ahead of him in the role of protector. Just a crazy moment. I think about it every time I run a table saw. Always will.
One of the things that I have always added to a table saw to improve safety is an outfeed table. It may not be necessary on small pieces, but, ripping a long heavy board, or panel, without one leaves you pressing hard on the tail to prevent lift at the end of the cut. Pressing almost straight down so hard while your hand is near the blade, even with a push stick, or other device, is a recipe for disaster. Another thing that you didn't mention, never stand directly in line behind the cut. A brain is the best safety device that you can have on a table saw
NEVER be a target LOLOL...this was about what old school told us to do with table saws. Funny they never mentioned do NOT stand in front of the wood cut line. Guess they thought that was common sense :)
I've been using the table saw for the past 65 years and still use the free 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 with a handle to use as the push contraption for cutting. I usually let the blade cut into the push contraption a bit especially when I am cutting real narrow pieces like I will be doing i the near future. I usually use a longer one when I am cutting thinner wood like 1/4 inch plywood. This helps keep the plywood flat. I have never seen a table saw with the blade mounted so far toward the back, why????? I've never had a saw (I'm on my 4th one) with the knife and or the plastic guard and I'm still with all of my fingers and no scars at all. I really liked the video.
Yes, a high blade greatly reduces kickback. It pushes the wood down onto the table where you want it. If you use the proper safety tools, I believe it is overall safer.
A fence parallel with the blade is priority #1. Kickback is most likely to occur if you fence is not parallel to the blade or when you are trying to cut very short pieces and it rotates as it passes the rear of the blade. If you are pushing wood into through a "funnel" (a fence that is farther away from the fence at the front of the blade and closer at the rear) then a high blade is less safe because a higher blade creates the greatest distance from the front of the blade and the fence and the back of the blade and the fence.
@@tinker-ing-around2317 exactly. The biggest reason for kickback is the wood pinching on to the blade. That's why you don't ever use a miter gauge while using the fence. It's why riving knives are so effective. Having your blade higher does very little if anything to prevent kickback. If your workpiece pinches, funnels or turns into the blade the higher blade isn't going to prevent that kickback.
Personal Note. First time viewer noticed your cap. My Father was a test flight engineer for the C-130 A through J model. He was with the 4 Horsemen also. Great stories about the power to weight for the A model allowing it to do the aerial tricks the Thunderbirds would do. Made me feel good seeing your cap.
I've been a carpenter for 40 years. I use a job site table saw out in the field. I don't even own a big heavy shop saw. Here's a few things that I do for safe operation of a table saw. I always set the blade height to at least the gullet of the blade, but not too high, for saw dust clearing, and it also helps to keep the work piece down on the table and not float above the table. The blade also cuts better that way. I always check the rip guide with a tape measure at the front of the blade and also the back of the blade... I don't care how good the rip guide is. I always knock the back of the rip guide open a tad to make clearance for the board to pass through ( thats the #1 cause of kick back, no clearance on the back side of the blade.) I only use a push stick if I'm ripping something narrower than about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. When I push a board thru, I always wrap a a few fingers over the top of the rip guide, just in case something wants to pull my hand into the blade, my hand won't go there because I have most of my hand wrapped over the top and around the other side of the rip guide. The number one cause of accidents is just simply not respecting the possible dangers and not paying attention.
Good stuff here ! Thanks for this one :)
On the job site with everyone using it. I like when the fence is open on the end. Good tip. Run the fence a little out of parallel
@dans4900 I posted this over a year ago. I've since obtained a nice heavy, 3hp cast iron saw for my shop with an awesome solid rip guide. I actually got it for free from a good friend. That one is perfectly parallel so that I can use it on either side of the blade. You can't knock that rip guide over like on a cheap job site saw.
And, as I just mentioned to this videos poster, no mention of a saw guard. Why he mentions safety without the mention of an upper saw guard is ludicrous. You too.
@rodneywheeler2278 A blade guard just gets in the way. If you're too stupid to keep your hand out of the path of the saw blade... maybe you shouldn't be using a table saw.
I am a retired pro who still works wood as a hobby. My dad was a professional cabinet maker/joiner all his adult life. He taught me to adjust the blade to where the gullets clear the wood, enabling good blade tracking, further, it promotes clearing excess cuttings from the blade while also it keeps the blade cooler. This has served me well. The only hospital visits I've had from woodworking are a cut experienced while sharpening a chisel, and a slightly shortened finger tip that occurred while jointing a board long past fatigue from a LONG day had set in. Don't work with power tools when brain fogged!
Thanks for this post. It is all about doing it right.
I would encourage any novice or experienced woodworkers to follow the advice offered up by this gentleman. I’m an old-time woodworker who incidentally only has 7 fingers remaining -Yes, I too was bitten by a table saw, amputated 3 digits from my left hand instantly. It’s too late for me but this gentleman is trying to help prevent further injuries to people and I respect & appreciate his efforts -Listen to his words. Nice job on the video by the way.
Cheers from Toronto.
Thanks for the hard won advice, feller. I am sure that at least one person will be saved from a maiming just for reading this.
I got nicked once in my 42 years woodworking and it was ripping PVC which is slippery stuff, had the blade 1/8 above and walked away with a little more than a scratch. Did have kickback one time when I was just beginning ripping parquet flooring, took a piece right to the chest. Accidents do happen because the saw doesn’t care and one moment of disrespect and it’s not good. No music playing, wife knows not to distract me. I know guys who have gotten bitten by joiners,table saws, radial saws.
Good video
I disagree, I do detailed cuts with the table saw and before I could afford a Sawstop I was using a contractors table saw on the floor (tile covered in sawdust) I slipped a little and my thumb got bit by the saw. Had I not set the depth so the saw was just peeking out of the top of the wood, I wouldn't be able to play video games with my son or piano anymore.
@@DrManhattan84, you found the best compromise for the stock you were cutting, the task at hand, and your equipment! Very glad that you escaped a maiming. Enjoy every minute that you can, with your son!
@@DrManhattan84 Precisely. I made a grave error 4 months ago, because I was tired. It wasn't an accident, it was a case of me being half asleep after working 10 hours in construction. I set the blade low, but did everything else wrong. I had a severe kickback, and if the blade had been just 1/2" higher, I would have lost 4 fingers. But I set the blade about 1/4" above the wood, and I only cut about 1/4" into 4 of my fingers. The blade hit the bone, and took chips out of the bone in 2 fingers. But my fingers are fine, and I didn't' lose any fingers. But the thought that I came SO close to losing 4 fingers, is traumatizing and I haven't been able to use my saw again until I completely rebuild it with a riving knife or splitter.
Another thing that is very important is to have respect for the tool. A lot of people have accidents because they get careless. And I never, ever rush at the table saw. If I do not have enough time to take my time, then I quite for the day and pick back up tomorrow. I have been woodworking for 30 years and I do enough woodworking to have gone through 3 table saws. I do more than week end projects, and I still have all my digits and plan on keeping it that way. And PPE is an absolute must. I cannot even imagine cutting anything without eye protection. You only get one set of fingers and 1 pair of eyes. It is up to you to keep them in tact.
Pre plan the cut is a must
@@SirTools absolutely. You know that saying, measure twice cut once. Well sometimes I measure 3 and 4 times. Also, layout on the plywood sheet is important to prevent waste. I know how to sew and I realized one day, that cutting into plywood is like cutting pattern pieces out of fabric. You lay pattern pieces out to get the most out of your fabric, and you should do the same when you are cutting into plywood. I cannot stand waste. And everyone at the house knows not to 'clean up' my shop for me. They will throw away pieces that they think are scraps. They do not understand that those 'scrap' pieces could still get some life squeezed out of them. Small trim; jig setups, etc.
@@annarouly2144 I've warned folks to leave my scrap alone LOLOL
Interesting! Thanks for the info. I used to do it the old school way. Decades ago I tired of having sawdust thrown at me so I dropped the blade to 1/8" above the wood surface along with a proper push stick/push block. I am a professional woodworker of over 40 years. No kickbacks ever. The key is a sharp blade. I've cut through the nastiest of wood with a sharp blade without issue. I have found that it's the cheap blades that are the most expensive in the long run.
1. Sawdust is the least dangerous thing a table saw will ever throw at you.
2. “Professional” means that you get paid to do it, not that you’re an expert in the best practices for safety. Johnny Knoxville and all the transvestite prostitutes on Hollywood Boulevard are also professionals.
3. None of the people in the world’s cemeteries had ever made a fatal mistake before. There’s a first time (and a last time) for everything.
Totally agree. Keeping a sharp blade on the saw solves so many problems whether it’s a table, or a circular saw. A dull blade will cause the wood to lift up and kick back plus it makes an ugly cut. It also makes the machine work harder and wear out faster.
Safety is not a device, it's a state of mind based in full awareness of the risks involved in the activity.
High blade reduces kickback, low blade reduces exposure to the blade. I say it's a tossup for safety.
As for quality of cut, high blade could give a smoother face of the cut, but low blade reduces tearout on the face of the board. So quality is a tossup there, too.
Using a sharp blade with good set, and keeping the board tight to the fence are probably the most important factors in safety and cut quality in terms of saw setup.
It is just that.
"saws not plugged in so quit typing"......Too funny.
Glad somebody got that line :)
Don't worry, the guns not loaded...
@@adrianscarlett good thing
@@adrianscarlett we only have blank rounds on set.
Oh, too soon?
@@SirTools That was gold! 🤣
Excellent table saw advice, many thanks
Thanks Paul, it's just about "old school" and how different things are in today's views.
Back in 1969 my High School shop teacher demonstrated how dangerous table saws are, no guards, no riving knife, blade as high as it would go, we all stood behind him as he dropped a scrap of 2x4 on top of the blade and we watched as it flew 50 feet to the back wall and shatter, have never had a problem with power tools as I respect them.
I'll bet he made his point
I totally agree with you I'm 73 years old first time I used a table saw I was 12 years old I still have all my fingers if I can see the blade I have sense enough to keep my fingers out of it thanks appreciate it
Super thanks Don for this one :)
Don't try this at home. Do it at school.
@@DominikusTV, good one!
Good info, thanks. I been woodworking since around 1960 and I am a retired safety expert. I really get ticked at these young youtube kids with missing fingers trying be a safety expert. Woodworking as with any job or hobby using power tools poses risks. A smart person will assess the risks, hopefully take some sort of action to minimize them and make the cut. As you correctly pointed out: with the blade low (as most youtubers say is the best and safest, that in itself introduces a SECOND hazard of a higher chance of kickback). And along with that higher risk of kickback comes a higher chance that your hand will end up coming into contact with the blade during the kick back event...so much for being the safest way. I just watched that happen yesterday on a video where the blade was really low, it kicked back a piece of wood that pushed/pulled his hand across the blade causing serious injury. I, like you am old school and keep my blade a little higher, use feather boards, push sticks or whatever is appropriate to keep me as safe as possible and enjoy the hobby. I just finished a 36X36 oak Carrom Board one side/Checker board other side. Loving retirement and woodworking. Be safe.
Right on !
Young RUclips kids with missing fingers trying to be safety experts? Where? Sounds pretty made up.
I think it would have been good especially for beginners to explain the importance of aligning the blade straight with the table, and likewise the fence aligned with the table.
Another VERY important point to mention is keeping the fence out of way when crosscutting using the miter gauge. I’ve used a table saw for nearly 60 years, and a couple of years ago, I let my common sense lapse for a second, and a short piece got trapped and flew out like a bullet. It struck me on the right side of my chest, and man did it ever hurt! I had abrasions, a bruise, and was sore for about 2 weeks.
And finally, standing to the side a bit, out of the line of fire, is ultra important habit to develop!
Good video, thanks for sharing, I’m sure lots of people will benefit from it!
Very good thoughts here
I don't see this as a beginners topic.
This is more for seasoned users that have been brow beat..."this is how you do things"
Just my opinion.
He's talking about dark side topics, not beginners safety... they can get that from stumpy or anybody else.
@@lectro88 Exactly, and thanks for posting
Yep, been there
I’ve been wood working since the late 70’s up until about 5 years ago I had never heard of kick back or knew what it was. I went to work for a small scale furniture maker. I’d never experienced it. I never knew what a riving knife was supposed to do as I always removed all the safety stuff. Same with the blade hight. Always have the blade about an inch above the work piece. I too have never experienced kickback.
You have to wonder if a blade too low is part of the issues.
Terrific video! You did a great job of presenting two schools of thought in a fair and levelheaded way. Cheers.
As you said...low blade allows the board to walk up onto the teeth. My 1980s shop teacher did the same with blade height as you
Old school, thanks for posting
I agree with using a high blade. been using a table saw for 55 years, never a splitter or guard and running the blade higher has less chance or kickback. on thiner rips, I hang a finger over the fence as I push through. Safety is great but wisdom exceeds fear. If your that afraid of a saw- don't use one.
Right on !
Again no substitute for good thinking and common sense working with those machines 😉
Excellent share, C&T!
The simplest and most logical reason I was ever given for rip cutting with the blade up high was, "...if you can clearly see it, then you will avoid it!" (let's call this Lesson 1).
As for kick-back - yeah, just don't stand there! EVER! (Lesson 2).
...for all the working contractors out there (who can scarce afford time off due to severe injury)...
Lesson 3: ALWAYS take off your so-called contractors' gloves before operating any shop tool, and...
Lesson 4: If it's someone else's table saw on your jobsite, have THEM make the cuts - they know that machine way better than you do.
...and finally for all of us...
Lesson 5: SLOW DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION!
(I have learned all these lessons the HARDEST way possible, I regret to report.)
Really like that last one #5 :)
I see you refurbished that old craftsman table saw. I bought one a few years back that didn't have a fence. I ended up putting a accusquare fence on it. Best investment I've made. Good to see someone still using the older saws.
The sound of that old saw is amazing. Smooth, quiet and powerful.
Been cutting wood for decades, but even today, after all the experience I’ve gained over the years, I cut scared. That freaking blade scares me. That is why I make every cut like a new chapter in my life and the ending, a happy one. My beloved father said to me long time ago “know where your fingers are at all times.” Thanks, Dad. Yes, I know where you are. God bless!
That is the right philosophy. **Cut scared** I do every time. For the last 15 years.
Same here, I don't know that I feel like I'd use the word scared but definitely a massive level of respect just a notch less than fear to the dangers that are inherent to a table saw but also tempered with some confidence. That balance is good to keep from making a mistake out of timidness while also giving it the massive caution the dangers merit. In the thirty years I've used table saws I've never lost that respect for the dangers or allowed complacency to set in.
this makes sense to me. Have to say though, In all of my years of using a table saw, the only times I've come close to hurting myself are when I'm trying to rush, or I'm distracted. I've got an old saw without a riving knife and there's no doubt it's a dangerous machine, but my rule is NEVER rush and avoid any possible distraction. No music, podcast, friends, pets, day dreams, ect, when the table saw is being used. Also, if you're trying an unusual cut, or a new material, make sure you know what you're doing and understand the potential hazards first. It's those unforeseen issues that catch you off guard.
No rush and plan it out before cutting, you betcha
You want to have total concentration, know where your fingers are and have good control at all times.
Double check. Then when there is no distractions as you suggest, triple check.
And just like the C-130 that had a big red line on the fuselage marking the rotation plane of the props, stay out of the rotational plane of the blade. I always stand off center so if the board does get launched back I will not be there.
Yep, very sound advice. I'm saying this because of an incident that happened to me quite a few years ago.
Although this happened on a jointer instead of the table, it can apply to anything in the shop that has a sharp, spinning and exposed edge to it.
I was using my jointer and while doing so I sliced my fingernail off. The main reason this happened? Overconfidence. I'd used this machine so often it was like second nature to me. It means that there was almost no concentration on what I was doing. I was very lucky because my finger is still on my hand and still works normally - minus most of the fingernail.
Since this happened I have become just a little bit afraid of these tools when using them and I was telling someone who has a lot more experience me. He said that this can be a good thing because it ensures that I am checking, double checking and then triple checking what I'm doing before I begin my cut. This bit of fear makes me aware of the sharp spinning blade.
A girl I went to school with used the shop table saw to commit suicide. This tool is no joke, I saw a 1 inch by 1 inch piece of oak about 2 feet long, kick back and break 3 of a guys ribs...
As a professional Wood Machinist/Joiner taught by some very talented, old school guys. I was always told a high blade reduces the cut surface (amount of blade to wood contact) but gives a rougher cut because of the exit angle. A low blade height increase the cut surface, and therefore the force needed to push the timber through as well as the work done by the motor, but the exit angle will give a cleaner cut.
I generally stay in the middle ground and adjust the height based on what I’m trying to achieve
Professional wood machinist from the 1960s. Try using a finer blade, raising the blade and FFS use a riving knife and a blade guard. Seen too many fingers on the dusty floor. If you use the guard, you can raise the blade and you only have a small area on the front of the blade showing. It also helps to stop kick back, that’s what the riving knife is for. It stops the wood from gripping the blade. Push sticks are useful.
Be safe woody.
I'm on the high side. If your blade is too low crosscutting (now really expensive) hardwood plywood you'll get tear out even with a still sharp hi end blade on both sides. Good side up and a 3/8-1/2" high blade and your good to go.
Plywood does have it's own rule, thanks for posting
I just watched your video on using a table saw. It was the first “real” wood working tool I got. I experienced kickback early on and have not used it since because of this. My Dad gave me a set of push blocks, but still I haven’t pulled the saw back out. Thank you for not only sharing the different aspects of safety, but also the clear and simple way you explained the how and why. I’m glad I found your videos and have subscribed. Looking forward to watching more of the good info you share!
Could be best not to use that saw if your nervous around it.
@@SirTools Any tool is most dangerous when you are afraid of it... Start small, and have someone come and work with you with it until you are comfortable. It's always a good idea to have a shop buddy around when you are learning to use a new tool, someone to dial 911...
I've been woodworking for 40 years and have had very few incidents with kickback. The other day I was using my homemade tapering jig to taper some legs. I had it all set up and then I realized I didn't have my zero clearance insert installed. Big mistake. The wedge of the taper came off and went inside the insert and bam. It sounded like a m80 going off. It broke one of my garage door windows and I felt the breeze of something barely missing my head even though I was standing to the side of the saw. I learned my lesson and I was lucky. I had to say a little prayer after that.
Geeez...Doug, don't leave us just yet. WoW..
For sure. The little bits falling into the standard plate have been 99% of the sketchy things to happen with my saw. Really need to get a zero clearance
Thanks for the video & your perspective. More than 40 yrs of carpentry, wood working & cabinet making. I can't even remember for certain from whom or where I learned my preferred blade height. I suspect it was as a young apprentice. I was taught to set the blade height high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety. This means I always raise the blade at apex or top of the blade which is the highest point above the wood/work piece so that the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is just above the piece being cut. About 1/16" - 1/8". This allows for clean, non burning cuts, allows the blade to fully eject the debris, chips, sawdust (that's what the gullets are for). This in turn helps keep the blade from over heating & running cool. It also places the front teeth in a downward trajectory at the leading edge/front to avoid kickback but the blade isn't so high that it will remove a whole finger.
Best of both worlds. Relatively low blade exposure. High enough to cut straight, cleanly & with minimal heat build up by ejecting cut debris while minimizing kickback. I also always apply this method to my circular/skill saws. The blade is set just deep enough so that the bottom of the gullet is just below the work piece. Cheers from the west coast of Canada.
A great way to describe that particular trade-off, "high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety". Pithy.
I've had a SawStop for four years, and even though I'm old, I'm still a beginner. Just recently I read the recommendation to set the blade height such that the gullet clears the board being cut. The explanation was that doing so allows the blade to clear the sawdust better. Well, except for the initial cut approximately the width of the upper portion of the blade, there's no sawdust doesn't get trapped in the gullet until the blade is rotating from 12 o'clock and into the wood. Once the gullet clears the bottom of the board, the sawdust will hopefully be sucked into the dust collection. Until the blade rotates back to the 12 o'clock position, I don't see where there is any sawdust in the gullet. I'm willing to stand corrected.
Second, as far as the angle of cut is concerned with a higher blade creating a steeper angle of cut, are the angles of the teeth today the same as they were 50 years ago? It seems that by the teeth leaning forward, they can achieve a greater angle of cut with a lower blade height. I have no clue what I'm talking about on this one.
As far as push sticks are concerned, the only "kickback" I've had so far was when I carelessly knocked my push stick/block over into the blade. Luckily it hit me in the arm and not in the face or chest. It could have been bad. Live and learn. Now I never leave anything where it can be knocked over into the blade.
Lucky and glad to hear it.
The lower blade will cut at a different angle, particularly the rear of the blade. A high blade the teeth are nearly 90 degrees to the table, increasing the risk of the board being cut lifting. A lower blade will also shorten the length of the blade exposed also lessening the risk of kickback. After having said this I tend to use the blade where it was set on the last use. If I notice, particularly thin wood or ply, that it’s jumping or tending to lift, I will lower the blade.
Since the 70’s as a professional carpenter I have most always set the blade 1/8 - 1/4” higher than the materials that I am cutting with my table saw. ALSO I wont turn the saw on without wearing safety glasses ALWAYS !
@@wardmontgomery9259 I agree, Safety glasses cannot be emphasised enough, apart from the sawdust, a splinter with force behind it can do a lot of damage!
@@markcomptube An excellent home builder in Kansas City, MO lost use of an eye as a young apprentice from a nail still in a board he was cutting. Safety glasses, for sure. Thank you.
I was taught to put the bottom of the gullet of the tooth above the piece. So, it varies in height, but you essentially always have a minimum of a full tooth and a hair above the wood. I get good cuts, it isn't high enough to fully sever a finger in one go, and it reduces the force needed to push the piece through.
For running very thin pieces through the table saw I just use a feather-board and a push-block. The feather-board applies lateral pressure, and also prevents any easy kickback, so all I have to do is apply forward and down pressure with the push block/stick from above.
I was told to adjust blade so the bottom of the gullet of the tooth is even or just a hair above the surface of the wood you are cutting so it helps make the blade to run cooler and to more easily eject wood chips that gather in the gullets. Any suggestions?
I was always told (and followed) my shop teachers advice in the 80s that the blade should always be above the piece by one full tooth. Never had an issue.
Thanks John for this one :)
I run mine about a half tooth above the piece I'm cutting.. if your hand slips it's a cut not a finger missing.
Hi, I live and work in the UK. Our saw fences and systems were very different to yours in the USA, Different remember I didn't say better. I started in the shop at age 15 (1965)as an apprentice. The fence would typically not extend beyond the gullet of the saw tooth nearest to the operator. This was to reduce the chance of kickback. The first full-length fence I saw was on an imported contractor saw. It was and likely still is a legal requirement for saws to be fitted with a riving knife and a top guard ( in a workplace as opposed to a home shop) and to have a push stick with a birdsmouth cut and be least 14" long. many saws were not fitted with a rise and fall so the saw blade could be 8" out of the table. And of course, if the timber being cut was not true the round side would go towards the fence. Thanks for your video and everyone else's comments.
I can vouch for what you say too.
Watching this movie my concerns are more about the extent of the fence beyond the cutting edge - cuts release the stresses in the wood (especially with fast grown cheap pine) that will sometimes result in a bow developing, so why have the fence press the wood into the back face of the blade?
As for those cumbersome push devices, I doubt the wisdom of a full grip handle to wrap your fingers around, Id rather be able to just whip my hand away, and not remove it from a hole first.
I've been using a table saw 40 plus years. I agree, it is one of the most dangerous tools. I use the push tools also. Please don't forget, to not put yourself in the line of fire. Standing to the side is as important as keeping your fingers away. I've seen a few injuries from kick back. We can get into other things like feather boards, but safety is where it starts. Thumbs up and fingers out of way.
It may not happen as often, but a lock-on electric hand tool like a grinder is extremely hazardous if it catches you. People put a paddle sanding disk on a grinder, It can run out of control over a good portion of your body or head, and when it finally stops grabbing, its not because its off, but has burnt in where its not grabbing any more. Horrible injuries occur with spinning tools. Never use a lock-on trigger with grinders, drills, or rotating hand tools, chain saws, or routees. I know they save from fatigue, but in a split second its a mistake.
Thanks for the honest info! I was taught over 50 years ago that ALL power tools can hurt you and to respect them and know what the hell you're doing before using them. I always had "good" homeowner type table saws and in all these years had 1 kickback (into the gut) and no cuts. I raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet and always use a sharp blade. Equally important as keeping your hands away from the blade is to make sure the fence is properly aligned. I was taught Sharp is Safe. I've seen idiots get hurt using dull drill bits.
Thanks for the honest comment :)
Well.. statistics don't lie. Table saw is more dangerous than all of those power tools. It's the least forgiving when you have a lapse in concentration..and no one is perfect in that department, you could little follow anyone on the road for a few miles and see a lapse in concentration in some way, so the more comfortable you become with something, the more likely you'll have those. I'd prefer to get comfortable with a track saw than a table saw... If something does happen, well probably nothing will. Life is more important than convenience.
A lower blade reduces the depth your saw can cut into a stray finger, but it also tripled or quadrupled the amount of wood in contact with the cutting teeth of the blade. A high saw cuts a much straighter line (almost verticle) reducing the amount of wood being grabbed by the teeth at any point in time.
It's a matter of preference and your own comfort level in how much you pay attention and how in control you are when cutting. Choose your own adventure.... but do it wisely.
Well put :)
You are not a rookie. I can tell.
correct, when I was young, a friend of mine, his parents had a carpintary, they had a table saw, running a huge disc, and they ran it high as well.
Due to it's 15KW, it was turning so fast, it didn't even grip wood, and even better, it had a movable slide, where you could put on the wood, and just launch it through the sawblade, it didn't even stop or move.
I still put the saw high up.
@@Steve25g Sounds like a big one :)
@@SirTools yes it was.
in the vicinity, you have a company producing carpintery industrial class..
The machine needed softstart at 3x400volts
When I started building cabinets about 16 years ago my boss taught me to put the blade up almost twice the thickness of the material.
I'll be 35 tomorrow and still consider myself young. But after watching the video, reading these comments, and giving my comment, I'm beginning to think I'm old school myself.😄
yeap...your old school...in my club :)
@@SirTools Sometimes old school is more a way of thinking, rather than just how many times you've circled the Sun while living on this planet. I am 36 and have picked up some "old school" knowledge from my dad, and other elders who have been kind enough to share their knowledge (like yourself). Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Personal responsibility is another old school think I believe in. One needs to learn how to use the tool and respect it. I can't blame my accident on a youtube video if I were to make such an unfortunate mistake.
I was about to say the same thing. From blade height as double the wood thickness, for the best cut. Also that I, myself, am 35, till April that is.
I learnt a lot from just watching my Pop in his shed doing wood work and metal work.
It's a cousin of mine that took off the top of a finger on a band saw when he worked in a picture framing business.
But I got my arm caught in the exposed gears of a metal lathe, while reaching to turn its power off. Oops
@@TheHungrySlug saws are bad enough but THAT worries me more. Rollers, printing presses, lathes, chains, and anything with gears exposed under power is extremely dangerous. All it has to do is grab a part of clothing, or PPE, and then it can pull you in and have it's way with you. It can happen so fast even trying to hit an e-stop might not prevent an accident. Hopefully it will safe your life but you might lose an arm in the meantime.
As a less-than-novice I see two forces at work.
One is personal safely and the other is cut quality.
I believe that we should NEVER sacrifice personal safely to obtain quality cuts nor to improve efficiency.
Lumber is sold, cut, and get thrown away.
However, from a tiny cut to a complete loss off some part of the body is permanent and not retrievable!
Some old-school is good. However, don't forget the advances made to minimize the possibility of these injuries.
I've learned that it's important to:
1. Keep pieces firmly pressed down on the table and against the fence!
2. Feed through material at a constant rate towards and past the saw blade.
3. Keep fingers well away as possible from the throat plate and blade.
The only exception is when machine is unplugged for changing blades, throatplate, and cleaning.
4. Make use of an outfeed table or props.
5. Make us of some infeed prop so you could focus on a the pressure downwards to the table and sidewards to the fence!
6. Don't stand in the way of the smallest piece of material after the cut. It's the smallest pieces that tend to be more volatile.
7. Always endure that fence is not forcing material towards the blade while cutting!
8. Use all the safety 'gadgets' that came with your table saw; or those that are available after purchase.
Think of them as your bodyguards. They are there to minimize and neutralize threats.
9. Your personal protection is your sole responsability!
10. Overconfidence, distraction, tiredness, rush, impatience are some of the most dangerous traits that undermine your personal safety!
Remember, the finest piece of woodworking that you can ever make is your safety!
Years ago as a newbie, I set the blade "too high" according to modern recommendations. When I learned I was supposed to have the blade low and tried it, it made cutting a lot harder (presumably due to greater friction) and I got more burning. To me, it also seemed intuitively more dangerous from a kickback perspective, especially when cutting something like a large flexible panel that could easily lift up and get on top of the blade.
Great stuff you have covered here. I would like to add that the use of your push blocks (the type with a heel hook) GREATLY reduces potential issues due to greater control of the work piece and likely reducing the benefit of having more blade exposed. The second item (using your test piece of 1x4 pine) is that it keeps the piece DOWN tight to the saw top, which reduces the possibility of the rear of the board lifting and being introduced to your face at high velocity!
Not really obvious, but that test piece has a slight cup to it and was rocking on the saw top. When cutting shorter boards like that, I am always more concerned of kickbacks from the rear lifting, as opposed to kickbacks from blade binding, etc. Maybe paranoid, but I never rip anything shorter than about 30". My saw is a 40 year old Delta, with no guard or riving knife, but I have a whole fleet of push blocks. Those can easily be rebuilt. My fingers, not so much. Although useful in some situations, I usually don't like the old school 'chicken foot' push stick. Those can contribute to the board lifting, IMHO.
Delta made some good saws back in the day
Yeah I usually work alone and in different places so its hard to properly setup a ideal work area. The lifting at the back is always sketchy or if a peace is laying there lol and sometimes holding a peace down with a as it spins I'll carefully shut the machine off and finish taking the peaces out when its stopped so not to wedge it while on and you're shifting positions
Excellent information. My neighbor gave me a very old table saw yesterday, with zero safety features. I haven't used a table saw in over 50 years, and then only in shop class. And more than 25 years ago I lost my left arm in an electrical accident. I've been getting into woodworking now and am using a circular saw, power planer, miter saw and router. It's fun and I take a lot of precautions. After watching this video I'm wondering if I can ever safely use a table saw, let alone the antique my neighbor gave me.
I don't know about the power planer, but of all the other power tools you use, I think the table saw can be the safest in your situation because it's set in one place, held the table, guided by wall etc. I would figure out how stand away from the line of cutting towards the side of the scrap wood which is the least likely to fly towards you at the end of the cut. Do a bunch of trial cuts on scrap wood just to get a feel for it. If you don't feel safe and you can more or less tell why that is, follow your intuition. But if you can't really tell why you're afraid, it may be just because you feel at a disadvantage physically, but not necesserilly because something is actually wrong. Good luck and I admire your drive to create.
I spent 30+ years working in cabinetry and display work. I always set my blade at the notch at the bottom of the tooth, about a 1/4 to 3/8" above the wood. I also used the splitter/anti kick behind the blade, this insures that if there is any binding after the cut it will not close up and of course no kick back. The biggest detriment to table saw safety is repetition, working one operation all day one can become lackadaisical and start to drift mentally. Time to take a break.
I agree, but not everyone is using a fancy cabinetry table saw in a woodworking shop.
I was told this was the proper blade height because it allows sawdust to empty out of the troughs properly.
Absolutely. I am trying to pull metal splinter out of my knuckles right now from getting lazy with my grinder. Luckily I haven’t had any close ones with the table saw yet
Nice to see David Carradine doing something constructive after retiring from films.
Retiring? he killed himself. Technically, it is one way to retire.
@@LeslieDuggerDon't be a jerk off and get hung up on semantics. 😉
I had to look several times. He really does look like the spitting image of David Carradine.
@@LeslieDuggerisn’t Carridine the one that choked the wrong chicken
Just finished watching the video. I have always have the attitude that I keep the blade just high enough to let the edge clear below the gap behind the teeth. No matter whether it is carbide or all steel design. Just keeping it below yet above allows debris to flow away from the area. Nice hat, which tells me you and I have a background of working on planes. Mine was with C-123,”White Whale” and 121s with ADC back in the 60s. Look forward to watching more videos.
I agree. I bet the reason that most injuries are on the table saw is because it is the most used. My 35 year old saw has none of the safety devices left, the guard and antikickback did not work. I am always careful and use common sense. No injuries. There has been kickback, but I stand to the side and out of the way.
You and me are lucky is what they tell me.
Hello, just found this channel. I always cut with the blade high. Your common sense explanation is right on. You can prove this all with geometry, trig, vectors and the whole engineering thing. My first table saw was one I made when I was in my mid-teens and I've been using them ever since. That is some distance above fifty. Also, been around sawmills, large remanufacturing saws, etc. The best safety tool is to watch what you are doing and keep your hands away from the blade. Some wood, especially green, will have stresses in it and will kick back. You have to account for it. Using a hollow ground blade helps. A sharp blade is essential. Some years back, while taking some survey classes at a Community College, I had to rip some rough old lumber into survey stakes in the wood shop. The wood instructor launched into me for having the blade above the board. The stakes didn't get cut. It was too dangerous to cut that stuff in that way.
Interesting. Your comment and this video convinced me to go experiment with all kinds of stuff. I can get green stuff, too. I forgot about that. Thank you
I was taught 50% higher than the wood. I vary that depending on thickness and other factors. The biggest thing is awareness of where my fingers are and where the blade is, as well as where the material is. No loose clothes, don't work too fast, make sure someone is nearby, and absolutely no cutting if tired.
Another twist on an old topic here. Cool stuff
and dont spill your beer
😛😛
Sharp blades are safer than dull ones.
listening to the Wood cut is the Key to a Clean cut. And Feeling the resistance as well as Observation of Density of the Wood, denser the wood reduction of speed. " A variable speed Electrical switch in line of power cord will do wonders for cutting on a table saw.
I'm just now at age 59 getting back into woodworking. My fear of my Craftsman table saw blade is no less now than back in woodshop in the late 1970's. I'm really glad you took the time to talk about blade heights because its something I dont ever remember learning but I wonder about it every single time I use the saw. IMHO: part of being safe is being efficient. If a blade is cutting sharp and efficient then you dont use as much force to guide it through your cut. Less force means less chance of slippage. I only have high school woodshop for experience but I once witnessed a piece of wood kick back and stick into a concrete wall behind the perhaps donkeyish teen boy making the cut. Also: the Safety shield I remember using seemed to get in the way more than keep you safe. I've never tried a nerd or whatever but that seems like a good thing to try. I think most important is common sense and no distractions. As an amateur I really try to take my time. Sometimes I get in the Zone where everything just flows...but without experience that is rare. Thanks again...I am going to try raising my blade higher...like 200-250% of the thickness of the piece being cut. Up until I watched your video I was adjusting the blade so that the throat of the blade was just coming out of the top of the wood surface but like you said that makes more friction and raises the risk of kickback.
Now days it is all about safety and heck, that's not a bad thing. I just wanted the old school out in the open for all to see and understand we had reasons too :)
Agree 100%! What are a couple of woodworker sayings? Dull tools are more dangerous than sharp tools & let the tool do the work.
I started cabinet making around 1992. About 30 years and my favorite job was always cutout on table saw. Those days are gone with CNC but table saw still is needed. I use saw same way with blade about 1/2" to 3/4" above piece. Never been cut, had a few kick backs (never hurt) but learned what not to do.
The CNC stuff is pretty darn cool
Lots of shops without CNCs out there still. Being a Sawyer is a fun role when the dust collection is working properly! 😆
Having had a close encounter with a blade that left a memorable kerf in my right first metacarpal, I no longer get closer than a sturdy push pad/stick.
Good testimony, friend. Nothing beats the voice of experience. Someone will be saved from grief, because they reax this.
I liked how u spent the time & were personable. U explained both sides.
Within the video u provide choices in real-time experience, thank you sir.
I plan to utilize ur words as a "tool" in a single case sinario.
I'm rambling, I'm 38 w/ 3yrs experience, taught in work experience.
A lot of other wood shows refused to discuss the "other side" and I wanted to go over it in detail.
The two best things I have ever done for my saw setups are: Use a high fence, set one inch or more than the max blade height as a limit for my hand. The second thing is to have a proper long out feed table, which lets me push a piece out smoothly. I resent being on the short end of a lever, thus tricking me to force the wood down onto the table near the end of its cut. (The most dangerous part of the sawing I have seen is not having a dedicated out feed table. Those twig-trees and helpers cause more havoc holding a piece out there. YOU need to be in control of the cut!!!!)
The Low Blade Safety ASSUMPTION maximizes the approach angle, and maximizes the tooth force tangential of the blades radius. This vectors forces which razes the work piece. In other words you can feel the board rise up when sett up like this, especially with slightly dull blade. Also, when set low, tooth time in contact with the wood is at maximum, creating heat, and if the material is dense like oak forget-about-it! 5000 RPM is 83 rotations per second. Multiply that by the number of teeth on the blade to find how many teeth per second. Saws with 1.5 to 3 HP always bog at the operators feeding rates.
Well reasoned! I hope newr users take heed
Having out feed table is the way to go but it takes up alot of room trying to fight your wood is dangerous I think
@@spurlindarby4587 Try a roller stand ....
Thank you
Outfeed table is often overlooked
Roller stand is good and at least you can move it to suit your space and timber length. Also like a lot of guys I often work alone in a room full of kit that can kill you so I wear a pair of 'Oregon' chainsaw gloves, designed to stop a chain saw and keep your fingers attached to your hands. Brilliant product and I use them on anything like saws, planers hand held or bench type it doesn't matter. Use on the band saw too. My gloves cost about £29 here in the UK, worth double. Riving knife and top guards if set up right are good too, never had cause not to use them.
I've been using a table saw over 50 yrs also. I was 19 and I worked in a cabinet shop, 8 hrs a day on the table saw. The guy that ran the shop was an oldtimer like I am now. Even after all these years seeing the blade up high like that gives me the creeps. You never want to do that.
In general I was told to use what is comfortable to me, but old school carpenter's shop told me to keep it high for the best cut.
@@SirTools Like John Wayne said, "well ya gotta do what your insides tells ya." Keep safe.
Years ago, at the beginning of that years woodshop class one of the first things my Woodshop teacher in junior high did was hold up the table saw's fence and told us students that, that fence was the most dangerous piece of the table saw, and that if it was used improperly while using it during the process of cross-cutting boards it would more than likely cause the "abuser" (meaning the table saw user), a horrific amount of undue pain and suffering due to the possibility of creating a dangerous "Kick-Back" situation when the board being cut became twisted and jammed itself between the table saw blade and the fence.
He stated that it was called a "Rip Fence", and that it was called a "Rip Fence" for one reason, and one reason only. It was to be used only for ripping boards in combination with a ripping blade, and was not to be used during the process of cross-cutting boards in combunation with a Cross-Cutting blade.
He then explained to us students that if he observed (or caught), any of us students using that "Rip Fence" during the cros-cutting process, or even if it was sitting on top of the table saw during the cross-cutting procedure, he would immediately cease all woodshop procedures (until he returned from the principles office), and then would escort that student to the principles office to discuss safety procedures with the principle, then write up a written report pertaining to what occurred, and temporarily suspend that student from the use of the wood shop, and its equipment for two weeks, and would give that student a failing grade for that semester.
That woodshop teacher was mighty serious about "Safety in the Woodshop", and I have never forgotten either that woodshop teacher, or his "Safety " message pertaining to the proper use of the "Rip Fence".
Good teacher by sounds of it ! Thanks for this comment it is interesting to hear some of the old experiences from wood shop.
I would say even as recent as 30yrs ago the high blade position was still the norm. Always used it had the top of the circle clear of the wood in the scene shops when doing cuts. Still do it to day as I am just as comfortable with the low blade position. Wood always feels unstable as described.
Thumbs up for old school :)
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
🤠
Great video, thank you. I might recommend keeping the music bed for intros, transitions/segues, and outros, and just let us curious folk listen to your voice and your "entertainment only" message. Great stuff, thank you!
Thanks and well said :)
I started using table saws before blade guards and kickback prevention. I was shown that you can get kickback if your fence is not repeatably accurate, meaning that if the rear of the blades is closer to the fence than you get a pinching effect across the blade when pushing it through and more surface contact, so I was taught to measure both the front and rear of the blade and make them even or actually slightly further from the fence at the rear to prevent kickback.
Good point and I think it is the main cause.
The only time I had a kickback accident was when I lowered the blade. It was nasty and split the end of my finger in an instant. Geeez it hurt. I now set the blade with the bottom of the gullet at the level of the timber, plus a riving knife to prevent the timber closing on the blade.
OUCH>....dang that hurts
My dad would lower the blade all the way down, unplug the saw, and remove the belt when he was done using his table saw. I do not remember him teaching me how to use it or explicitly giving me permission to use it. I guess he figured if I had passed wood shop in middle school and was strong enough to drag the saw out of the furnace room into the basement, and get the v-belt back on, I must be okay to run it.
Three cheers for your careful Dad!
Thanks for sharing your experience, expertise and honest advice. I am a retired guy just getting into woodworking and binge-watching RUclips videos on table saw safety. One of my first purchases after getting a Dewalt DWS7491RS was a GRR-RPPER 3D Push Block and a Bench Dog Push-Bloc Push Pad. Now I feel like I can begin to make cuts much more safely and build a couple sleds more safely to get started. Tried to work with the single plastic push stick that came with it and quickly realized that was going to be a non-starter for me.
This episode was more about what we were told in the "old school" days. The gripper is a good choice.
If the high blade helps prevent kickback at the cost of increased risk of cutting, then the obvious solution is to keep the blade low but use a riving knife to eliminate the kickback. Alternatively, use a good blade guard and don't worry about the height so much.
I live in the UK. and recently found a well known router manufacturer market a spray for wood cutting tools . This spray will stop resins and glues from plywood and OSB board sticking to your blades and works as a lubricant on saws. I tried it and got a much a more efficient and smoother cut on my saw table. Very impressed.
The clean blade sure does change the game :)
I'm with you, I've always made my cuts with the blade about 1/2" above the wood or high enough to clear the cutouts in the teeth. I always thought that was to aid chip extraction, which prevents binding, which prevents kickback. How much of that is true I don't really know, but it has worked well for me over the past 30 years or so. Hasn't hurt the one carbide all-purpose blade I've been using over most of that time either. Still makes superfine cuts that don't need sanding. Cheaper blades tended to burn the wood so I stopped using them.
Keeping the blade up helps hold wood down. Lower the blade, the wood wants to ride over the blade. Blade 1/2" high can cut off fingers like it happened to me. I passed out during a cut, lost my pinky with other damage. Nothing can prevent that except sawstop which now i have.
I so agree with you on this,I was going to say about the same thing until I found your commentyou said it all
Full tooth and gully above stock. No more to much less can cause blade to lift stock and potentially sling it on you.
@@sawman231 exactly this. Most manufacturers of blades recommend this height for an optimal cut, chip and dust extraction, and not too high for safety reasons
@@brucemiller1696, thanks for the testimony, pal, it will help keep another person safe, I know this. I really hope that you have, or will, recover full function! L
I don't offer this as criticism, but rather to inform. You make a good video with valuable information for all woodworkers. We "tune" in to learn and the music in the background only interferes with the communication. Sorry to be negative.
it happens
6:34 Very poor argument. 1: The teeth are wider than the "body" of the blade, so the only thing in direct contact with the wood is the side of the teeth themselves. If you let the blade guide the board, you will cut into the edge already done with the upward going teeth, which is one of the main causes for kickback. 2: You have a MUCH longer guide right on the other side of the board (aka the rip fence)... ;)
Not making a cut because it feels unsafe, is probably the best advice anyone can give you. If a cut feels unsafe, mostly it's because it is!
I have aborted a cut more than once because it just fealt wrong.
IF it feels wrong...don't do it :)
The back and forth you're showing in the 12:00 timeframe makes puts a lot into perspective, and explains the "kickback" you said you were getting
Yes, the lower the blade the less likely you are to be considered for the next Cpt Hook audition
But ALL of the pushing force is straight back (maybe you said it sooner)
Effectively what's happening - as you're showing by manhandling the blade directly, it isn't terribly sharp - is it relies on the tearing force and inertia of going the 5k rpm's you mentioned
It's more accurate then to say this "efficiently tears" the wood than "cuts through" it
I feel like I'm rambling now, but the bottom line is as long of you are using something to extend your reach of the board across the table safely, medium-high blade is ultimately safer than the "as low as possible" which is more likely to cause some part of what you're dealing with to smack you in the gut and potentially lead to all sorts of dangerous hi-jinx
I like the blade a little higher also, seems safer and does seem to guide the wood thru the cut. Also use push sticks and feather boards when needed and something you didn't mention was to use a "SHARP"saw blade. A dull blade will get you into trouble.
OH, yeah...the blade, but that's another story :)
@Bamboo Training Two things on a dull blade, it will "burn" going through wood and also you'll have to "push" harder on good wood. A lot of times it just needs cleaning :)
Totally agree with the high blade. And you said another word several times.... CONTROL. Make sure you are always in control of the work, either with your hands or with push stick(s), and keep it smoothly moving as much as you can. Don't leave work sitting between the fence and the spinning blade and get distracted and leave it uncontrolled for a millisecond. Work sitting between the fence and a spinning blade uncontrolled is about to become a missile, aimed straight at YOU. If you need to stop for some reason (heart attack, ninja attack, sudden onset of overwhelming existential angst), keep the work under control and reach down and switch off the saw, and keep the work under control until the blade spins down.
Great video. This video will save some fingers.
control and plan each cut
I will pay attention and obey anyone who has been making sawdust as long as you and still
has all 10 fingers! Thank you for passing along solid information
and being concerned about us!
Thanks Louis :)
The worst kick back I ever got was from ripping with the cutoff narrower than the outboard opening of my face plate. I was needing some thin veneer faces for covering plywood edges. It splintered at a small knot and dove into the opening. I heard it before I saw it… but still couldn’t hit the stop before it came back at me.
I ducked just in time to have it whiz by my ear. That startled me and I let loose of the push block. It hit the blade snd was thrown back also. The wider portion of the board rose up on the saw blade and skidded much slower back toward me as well.
That split second taught me a couple of lessons…
1. Use a zero clearance insert when cutting narrow edges from parts… or just joint them some other way instead. In this case I was needing to use the narrow edge.
2. I’m not faster, stronger, tougher or smarter than a tablesaw. So, spend as much time and effort as it takes to do a safe setup!
As far as the secret goes… I’m an old fart too. I use a riving knife on every cut that I can. And blade height… I split the difference. The norm for me is for a full tooth to protrude above the wood. It is lower than the thickness of my push block yet high enough to have that downward cut that gives the cleanest cut.
I’d like to add one more thing… all of the new saws come with plastic push sticks. That should be outlawed. The only time I’ve been cut on my saw was when the brittle plastic push stick hit the blade. It shattered and a shard imbedded in my cheek. When I wrote to the manufacturer they sent me another one with a full page set of instruction on how to use it safely. Both of which went directly in the trash!
You've had some bad times. Thanks so much for sharing this info. The video is about height of blade , old reasons VS the new safety ideas. The Riving Knife is another video perhaps ?
@@SirTools you mentioned it and even said you were going to build one… I thought so any way??
Looking at a 3d printer app for it..."maybe" LOLOLm:)
Many people are saying the blade should be high enough that the bottom of the gullet is just clear of the work to efficiently remove the sawdust and increase the cooling of the blade. I always use Push sticks and/or push blocks. You gave the most important piece of advice quite early into the video. "Keep your hands away from the blade"!
yeah, that would be NUMBER one in my books, but I was taught to run the blade high by Pro's and this is against the "safe" gang
I like the balanced argument you presented on this. Blade above or blade below(level) has been a huge controversy so it is nice to see that not everything is as it seems. Kinda what I had always thought, but nice to hear that I was on to something. Thank you! :)
Next time we do the saw blade we're going to measure temperatures on the blade while cutting and see the differences. Should be interesting :)
@@SirTools That is a good idea. If the temperature is colder on one vs the other that may end the debate right there. No one likes burnt stock! LOL
@@WoodWorkTherapy It's a deep topic and includes warping the blade...Say WHAT ?...I'm serious.
@@SirTools I see what ya did there. LOL, Your right on the warping. As the metal on the blade heats up the blade slightly warps from the pressure of spinning and impacting the wood if I remember how that works correctly(I am not a thermal engineer LOL). So I guess the question at that point, would be what keeps the blade cooler? Hmmm... My guess would be the blade raised would keep the blade cooler, and thus would warp less during the cut because it has all be it a small-time, but some time to get away from the wood into cooler temperatures. Kind of like the concept of an air-cooled engine. Just a therory, but we will have to wait to see what you come up with on that! :)
@@WoodWorkTherapy Your on track :)
Understanding the physics that is going on when using a table saw is a significant part of being safe. Most of the guys that I know that have gotten hurt just didn’t understand what they were doing. The other ones were doing something repetitive and got complacent.
Exactly!
You mentioned you've been using a table saw for 50 years and I noticed you still have all your fingers! So I'm thinking you know what your talking about. Lol! But seriously, I've only been into wood work for a few years and the only time I've had a board get squirrely on me is when the blade was in a lower position. So this makes total sense. Thanks 😊
It is almost old school VS new. I think they both have the GOOD and BAD with each.
Back in the 70's I was taught for both table saws and circular saws to set the cutting depth to half the gullet depth. I've been running with that ever since. Nice cuts and safe, never been hurt. Oh yeah, push blocks are a necessity for table saw safety!
Exactly this.
Forgive me, I'm new to this. What is the gullet depth?
@@soujrnr
suncatcherstudio.com/uploads/woodworking/table-saws/images-large/table-saw-blade-teeth-identification.jpg
res.cloudinary.com/yaffa-publishing/image/fetch/q_auto:best,c_fit,w_630,f_auto/http%3A%2F%2Fyaffa-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fyaffadsp%2Fimages%2FdmImage%2FSourceImage%2Fsawblade-anatomy.jpg
@@soujrnr I can't insert a pic here, so just google it. It is the deep curve right behind the teeth. My understanding is it is where the sawdust goes immediately after a tooth cuts through the wood fibers. Having the gullet exposed gives more escape route for sawdust than a blade sitting low that is buried in the wood.
@@bloomdds - Thank you!!
I have a tremendous amount of respect for table saws... and I use one. I was shown and taught by my Dad not to get the gullet above the workpiece or " You're just asking for trouble, Son". I miss my Dad, but I still heed his teaching and it has served me well, knock on wood. We, and later me, built a lot of "stuff" together. Low teeth and push blocks work.
OMG...".... unplugged..". Lmao!! Really"deflated" the egos of the Pseudo Safety Warriors...lolol 😂!
Thanks for the demo/info! 👍!
🤣
Perspective.
I think the main reason that the table saw is the number one piece of equipment that people get injured on, is because it's by far the one piece of equipment that most all woodworkers have.
Great video.
I like that, it could be just that simple.
While that is certainly true, safety training other than on You Tube is basically "accidental"! Splitters and riving knives will prevent 98% of kickbacks and are not very well understood, so they remain in the drawer with the blade guard attached, at least mine did until I realized what function they perform. Prior to reinstalling my splitters, I did have a few kickbacks and they were painful. After putting them back on I've had none! Those slender push sticks that provide no down pressure and often used in pairs are a safety hazard and prone to sliding along the workpiece.
I always cut with the blade low and I've still got all off my fingers and have never experienced kickback, my dad always cut high and his nickname was stumpy.
Glad you said it LOL
Love that 'old' saw. I've had my 10'' Craftsman since the mid seventies.
Always use a blade guard and a riving knife.
Good man !
Excellent advice for all. I personally set the blade depth at about 1/8" and I can testify that if I didn't practice that my left thumb would be a little shorter. With that said my incident would not have happened if I had not been distracted by my son-in-law. So my advice is first eliminate all distraction and second concentrate on the project and HAND!!!!
WOW. Yes so I wouldn't have any fingers left if I had the blade set 2" high. But I had a kickback, and I had the blade set just barely above the wood, and I got cut at the exact depth that the blade was protruding above the wood. My hand followed the wood backwards into the blade, and rode across the blade on the top of the wood. I cut half way into 4 fingers. They stitched me back up. I'm ok, but I haven't been able to use the saw in 4 months since it happened. I'll be installing a riving knife now.
I totally agree with you about blade height. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for watching :)
In the UK and most of Europe you should NEVER operate a circular saw bench without a riving knife fitted to within 8mm of the blade and a guard must always be fitted and placed as near as practical to the work. Likewise when ripping solid timber the fence should never go past the gullet of the blade at bench level. I agree that you do get a better cut with the blade up high, really not too much of a problem if it is sufficiently guarded, generally though the advice is to set the blade low. We also say your hand should be a minimum of 300mm away from the blade so most of the sticks or grippers that are in use in the US would be illegal here in the UK. People, statistically this is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a wood shop keep the guard and riving knife fitted at all times and use a push stick of at least 350mm long and only use it for ripping and occasional crosscuts, there is far better equipment to cut grooves, rebates etc available. I do appreciate that different countries have different rules and what I have said will upset some but I say it with safety in mind.
Love this input from UK. Super thanks for this comment. I have some fellows in Germany right now sending me emails too. Telling me why did you release this darkest of secrets :)
Illegal! really? Point me to that law please.
I believe here its not allowed to sell saws without a riving knife and professional shops/ users have to use it. Workplace safety etc..
The us style fences are i think pretty dangerous.
@@joepmeloen3373 yep, but those are not laws they are HSE regulations and dont include your personal equipment in your own home, unless your using it in relation to a business
Love the channel
Great humor. Fellow carpenter here
Thanks Carpo719 :)
This is late to the party, but what I was taught as a machinist was to select my blades such that I would have three teeth in the work. I could use more, but there might be more heat from friction and drag as the teeth spring in (kerf narrowing) but if I used less I would be likely to break teeth in the work. The stress just isn't divided among enough cutters. That's for metalwork, but the same goes for wood. I set my table saw so I keep three teeth in the cut. If I'm ripping thick boards, fewer teeth on the blade so I don't have to stand it out so tall, and thin sheet, more teeth.
I had 7 years in a machine shop and that's another story for another day. Thanks for sharing.
I was taught to clear the gullets by a blade manufacturer. They said that cools the blade enough to minimize burning and to clear any sawdust, but not so high that it guarantees that you'll lose an appendage.
That was a popular rule for the saw dust
A HIGHLY informative and educational video that everyone should watch. Thank you for this great video Sir, and God Bless.
I've been a carpenter for the last 40 years. In my career I know of four men who have lost a digit. One with a circular saw. The other three was a table saw. My experience tells me table saw by far most dangerous tool
I think one of the big reasons for kickback is rip fences that are not parallel to the blade, especially if the are closer at the rear of the blade. I have a couple of older Craftsman saws and frankly the rip fences are not very accurate. I think an accurate fence is probably the most useful thing you can do to prevent kickback to say nothing of putting out better work.
Thank you , the riving knife doesn't prevent kickback, rip fences that are not parallel to the blade is the problem with kickback.
It's great to have a real vet explain this stuff and at the same time understand it all. I only started woodwork in July but it's gripped me :D
After I bought a mitre saw everything became easier but I read the safety instructions properly and checked out loads of videos on how to properly use it.
I DO have a table saw which I bought last month which I haven't had the opportunity to use yet as weather in England sucks but the blades you showed are exactly like the ones on mine with that dip.
Got a new sub. Have a GREAT New Year mate : ]
Just never rush and always plan the cut before hand. Best wishes for the new year and glad to hear another wood worker has started the adventure. Hope to hear how your doing in the future !
Hi, lumber yards use very large circular saws normally at full depth of cut but they are usually used with the "work piece" in a carriage on guide rails. This is similar to my preferred approach on a table saw in that I use a fence on both sides of the work piece with clamped blocks on the left hand fence to stop the work piece lifting. Also an adjustable guard that covers the blade position is attached to the right hand fence and push sticks are used to feed in the work piece through the "jig" formed by the two fences. Admittedly more time to set up but gives very accurate, repeatable and safe cuts (particularly on a long work piece). Note; still not idiot proof and will not stop stop kickback due to blunt saws and excessive feed rates.
We have a lumber yard not far from here and I inspected the saw setup. Good points !
Thank you for this very informative video, I am an older like you and not much experience though - I was taught the way you do the blade at the higher depth so your video is a real eye opener. I have never been comfortable with the table saw after almost hitting a fellow student with a kickback board in shop class , so thank you.
Today it is all about safety. Old school was very different in those days :)
Interesting... The way I set mine is to ensure the carbide tip in the highest point sticking above the board. It is because the lumber I worked with not always flat and sometimes bowl and twisted by 1/8 or more. It has to cut thru all of that. Most of the time, I just leave it 1/2"-ish above the board. However, I do use long pushing stick or block where my hand is at least 6" to 8" away from the blade.
Great show! Couldn't find anything to complain about. 50 years is about right for me as well, and I have never been hurt yet. I did have one instance of kickback that could really have hurt (cutting a product called Finform, 17 layer Birch I think, and razor sharp edges as it came through the blade ... but it missed me), but none since! The only thing I would add is a system that anybody that comes out to my shop knows to LISTEN, KNOCK, SPEAK LOUDLY before entering. The other thing is that I never take my eyes off of the blade. You're right, that machine will eat you alive if it gets its hand (blade) on you. Blade height for me is about ⅛", and no riven knife or plastic cover. Eye/ear protection, and an open shop door for the dust to leave. Tip: a ballistic vest will stop a bullet, but you are still going to the hospital.
Way to go Paul !
1974 Craftsman Cast Iron tablesaw, I'm with you on the high side better cut , less heat with hard woods, still have 10 fingers and 2 thumbs.............
You Da man :)
With the blade low it causes resistance throughout the entire cut… causing the board to want to rise up. A high blade cuts through immediately keeping the “ force to rise” very low. I don’t see a lot of safety with a low blade
These days they are pushing safety and want the blade very low.
@@SirTools you agree tho with me?
@@SirTools safety is Why the guard exist above the soul now
@@SirTools *saw not soul
@@BighnicHnicBAWSESTATUS you got it
Love what your doing. Many years ago when I was just starting, I was cutting live edge lumber to square it. The piece to the left of the blade, the live edge side, tampered down, broke loose at the blade and kicked back. A piece about 4 feet long tore into my t shirt just knicking me. If I had been a few inches to the right it would have gone into my belly. That is the only time I have seen left side kick back.
Off cut is rare, but Jeff King over at The Den of Tools said it happened to him. Thanks for the comment posted. Just shows anything can go wrong.
youch.
radial arm saws make arrows fly.
Blades are better now.
Early carbide tips would fly off now and then.
That was like getting hit with a bullet.
I have been lucky. Chris
Jeff King over at Den of Tools said that happened to him. Rare but it can happen.
@@christophergallagher531 OH, those days...I got hit in the forehead with a carbide chunk off the blade. Thanks for the memories :)
I don't feel the table saw is any more dangerous than any other power tool. It just has more potential to cause injury because there are more ways to misuse it than other power tools. The vast majority of table saw accidents are user error. Cutting pieces too small, removing blade guards, trying to cut warped wood, using a dull blade, not having respect for the tool which makes you complacent, working when too tired. Those are the main culprits and they are all user induced. I happen to live by the creed that the table saw is as dangerous as you let it. Follow safety procedures and stay focused on what you're doing and it won't hurt you. If you're getting tired, don't make that last cut. There's always tomorrow, unless you cut off a finger.
Well said !
There is one problem with your assertion of keeping the blade high because "it keeps the board nice and straight" and that is that the kerf of the blade's teeth are slightly wider than the spinning disk they are mounted to, and the friction you feel keeping it in line is from the back teeth making contact with the board from behind. Yes, there is more distance with which the blade spans to allow less movement, but a Master carpenter will push his fence ever so slightly away from the blade at the far end to keep a board riding away from the fresh cut line, to avoid burn marks on his new line... this takes advantage of the leeway in the kerf of the blade and always gives you a 100% burn free line on the piece against the fence.
The biggest thing about kickback is something being out of alignment, or a warped/twisted board. By using a "chicken foot" push stick in conjunction with a normal one, you can add a lot of distance and hold a board very close to the blade, (like a feather board) and give yourself a lot more control than just a regular push block or stick.
@ Chris Griffith, can you describe a ''chicken foot'' stick, compared to a ''normal one'', please? What I call a ''bird's mouth'' has just a notch cut into one end. Is that it?
@@leehaelters6182 yes
The only time I ever yelled at and corrected my dad was because he reached over the table saw while it was running.
Made me a nervous wreck.
He was a careful man but, for a moment became in a hurry and was rushing.
I straightened him out, really made me look at our relationship different from then on.
I jumped ahead of him in the role of protector.
Just a crazy moment.
I think about it every time I run a table saw.
Always will.
One of the things that I have always added to a table saw to improve safety is an outfeed table. It may not be necessary on small pieces, but, ripping a long heavy board, or panel, without one leaves you pressing hard on the tail to prevent lift at the end of the cut. Pressing almost straight down so hard while your hand is near the blade, even with a push stick, or other device, is a recipe for disaster. Another thing that you didn't mention, never stand directly in line behind the cut. A brain is the best safety device that you can have on a table saw
NEVER be a target LOLOL...this was about what old school told us to do with table saws. Funny they never mentioned do NOT stand in front of the wood cut line. Guess they thought that was common sense :)
I've been using the table saw for the past 65 years and still use the free 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 with a handle to use as the push contraption for cutting. I usually let the blade cut into the push contraption a bit especially when I am cutting real narrow pieces like I will be doing i the near future. I usually use a longer one when I am cutting thinner wood like 1/4 inch plywood. This helps keep the plywood flat. I have never seen a table saw with the blade mounted so far toward the back, why????? I've never had a saw (I'm on my 4th one) with the knife and or the plastic guard and I'm still with all of my fingers and no scars at all. I really liked the video.
Just felt like nobody talks about "old school" LOL
Yes, a high blade greatly reduces kickback. It pushes the wood down onto the table where you want it. If you use the proper safety tools, I believe it is overall safer.
A fence parallel with the blade is priority #1. Kickback is most likely to occur if you fence is not parallel to the blade or when you are trying to cut very short pieces and it rotates as it passes the rear of the blade. If you are pushing wood into through a "funnel" (a fence that is farther away from the fence at the front of the blade and closer at the rear) then a high blade is less safe because a higher blade creates the greatest distance from the front of the blade and the fence and the back of the blade and the fence.
@@tinker-ing-around2317 exactly. The biggest reason for kickback is the wood pinching on to the blade. That's why you don't ever use a miter gauge while using the fence. It's why riving knives are so effective. Having your blade higher does very little if anything to prevent kickback. If your workpiece pinches, funnels or turns into the blade the higher blade isn't going to prevent that kickback.
Personal Note. First time viewer noticed your cap. My Father was a test flight engineer for the C-130 A through J model. He was with the 4 Horsemen also. Great stories about the power to weight for the A model allowing it to do the aerial tricks the Thunderbirds would do. Made me feel good seeing your cap.
Very cool!