When you're making those thin rips, your finger is pushing right into the blade, and it's going to go into the blade as the end of the wood passes by if you keep pushing. Of course you're being mindful and careful as you make that cut, but table saw accidents happen because we become complacent and used to the danger. Why not use a block of wood to apply pressure from the side?
I like mine a little taller. I have a sacrificial bottom (the part that touches the wood) so when it gets chewed up I cut it off and glue on a new one. Thank you for the video. Well done 👍 and yes wood is by far the best material for a push stick.
I have one that I can replace the bottom on and the hardwood cleat at the back. I have a second that is for cuts where the blade will never come in contact with it, so it will stay beautiful forever…or at least until I’m to lazy to look for the other one. 😂
Just found your channel. I loved your detailed explanation of the push stick. Many others glaze over topics like this. I get the dynamics of a push stick and push block so much more now. Thank you. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
When I started out my woodworking hobby, I was intimated by the table saw and the first “accessory” I bought was the Gripper. But since it’s fairly expensive, as push sticks go, I would always worry about protecting it. It was videos like these that made me realize that I should be building my own. Love this style push stick, only change I made was to embed a magnet to the side so it sticks to my tools and it’s always there when I need it.
Great Video, thanks Jay! Agree 100% with shop built push sticks. One small tip is to spray paint them a bright color like red, as this helps then clearly stand out against the rest of the wood pieces around the workshop. Easy to find. Also you can see quickly where the stick is being chewed away, and might need re-surfacing.
Thanks Jay. I saw this video and went right to my shop and made the original version push stick. I love it. Great idea to make it 16 inches long. I don't have a hole cutter so I left the hole off my push stick. So far, I don't miss the hole. Of course, I can always buy a hole cutter and cut a hole into my push stick if I think I need it. By the way, I threw away my plastic push stick that came with my table saw. I hear that plastic push sticks can be very dangerous if they come into contact with a running saw blade. Flying pieces of broken plastic can be damaging to us. Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
I use 1/2 in ply in the shape of a big shoe. I put adhesive sand paper on the bottom / sole for applying even pressure towards the fence and never have a rocking issue….I ripped the design off of four eyes..love it
I’m just starting out with woodworking. Don’t have much in the way of these sorts of helpers, and this was just what I needed to see. Eyeballed your basic design, and whipped up my own in about 5 minutes with a jigsaw. It’s ugly, and I’ll get around to sanding it eventually. Maybe lol. But it does exactly what I needed it to do, so thanks! 👌
I'm close to the beginning woodworker category, but this looks like it's worthwhile making (although I do intend to use the blade guard as much as I can). However, instead of making it 16" long, I'll probably make it 400mm long. 😜
My current push sticks are triangles I cut out of 1/2" plywood. They're about shot and need to be replaced soon. You've given me some interesting things to think about in making new ones. Thanks for sharing!
Good video. You voiced everything I've learned about my favorite push block. About 15 years ago I wanted a longer device to hold down a long thin bit of thin ply so I grabbed a dried out 2×10 off cut I picked up from new construction in the neighborhood and added a piece of scrap 1 by to screw onto the back. Tada! I still use that exact same block today and it has been very sacrificial. The hook has been replaced twice now and the 2×10 looks like a wide 2×6 these days. I use other sticks to assist at times but this old scrap sits on my tablesaw ready to go.
Late to the game but this is your first video that popped into my feed. What a great video, well spoken, very well explained , great presentation, and NO MUSIC over it to drive my old ears nuts. I like your design and will be building a few of them. Being mostly broke most of my life I have always just cut a notch in a likely looking scrap for my push sticks. I have subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos.
Hi Jay. I made some of your first generation push sticks and now I'm going to make a couple of the second gen sticks tomorrow. Thank you very much. Todd in NH.
That's my favorite style of push stick as well Jay. I make mine a bit shorter though and a bit taller (very slightly). I made a master template and use that to batch them out with a flush trim bit. Once I get my onefinity CNC I'll obviously be using that.
I have just built my first pair after having to resaw some wood using the commercial versions to help hold the stock. I´ll experiment with my brand-new push blocks and push sticks soon. Thanks for the explanations.
A little late to this video but I am glad I found it. Very informative. A table saw is the only item on my Christmas wish list so will be making a couple push sticks tomorrow. Thanks!
Very simple, perfect, that mean's there's less chance for me to screw it up. I also like how you go through all of your reasons for your push stick. You hit on one of the reasons for which I don't like traditional push sticks, I have to grope around to find it, or take my eyes off of my cut so I can find it quickly. Then there's how it can be used instead of a push block. Thanks.
I started using 1 1/2” wide push sticks with rear cleats several years ago and I have never looked back. Except I use 2 x 8 to place my hand further away from the blade. Small cost for increased safety. 👊
When I started woodworking around ten years ago, I eventually got a job site table saw and I made your push stick which I still use today, most definitely the best push stick ever, 100% . I like the way the blade can go through the bottom and that you can easily replace the cleat
Hey Jay - I have made your V1.0 push stick since I saw it probably a couple of years ago. It also has been my go to push stick. But thanks for showing some intricacies which I was not aware of and been missing on the application of those. Now will look into making the V2.0 push stick soon. Thanks again for all your no-nonsense, to the point videos showing affordable ideas around the shop.
An important topic comprehensively covered. At my age after a life on the tools, my hands are arthritic and several fingers have been broken/dislocated over the years. I am very still very attached to them.
I agree with you- I’d never buy or seldom use a plastic push stick. Mine have neodymium magnet/s in the side to attach the push stick to the open side of the cast iron table or to the outside of the fence (always handy, in position and easy to grab). Drill a hole, install the magnet and put duct or painters tape over the magnet to keep it in place. My cleat is a tight fitting dowel that I can adjust down, retract or replace.. My bandsaw push stick stays stuck on the blade guard or in front of the blade when not in use signaling the saw blade is not tensioned.
Hey Jay Thank you for this video. I have been using a push stick very similar to your push stick 1.0. Mine is cut from a 4x4 that I cut down to 2 inches. Mine took a little more cutting and trimming but is very similar in profile to yours. I love the stability, the reach that I have with the 16 stick. Your video kind of validates the decision I made making Mine .
totally agree, i've never used the push stick that came with saws. I 've always made my own, just like you, out of a 2x4, or 3/4 ply, or 1/2 ply for narrow stuff
The only commercial ones I have are the ones that come with machines I have purchased. Other than that I have been using a version of the one you made. They work great. I grab it 9 out of 10.
I 100% agree and have used your design for years. Another point to make is if you use a "plastic" store-bought push stick, you may compromise the safety and quality of your cut to make sure you do not damage your expensive grip. Thanks for a great video!!!
I have to thank you. I saw your original push stick video many years ago and it probably has saved my bacon many times over the years. I have no idea how anyone can use the Matthias method with the two little sticks. I tried that a long time ago and ended up with a piece thrown backwards into my garage door. Thank you Jay
Another handy thing for that is to attach a strong magnet for storage (mine is inset so it's flush with edge on the side). Of course keep it on the top where the blade won't get it. I store mine on the body of the saw. A small screw with a magnet that comes with a hold on one side will keep it on a cabinet underside of a table or the body saw easy. Always there and have access to it.
Great video! My pushstick? I modeled mine like Frank Howarth's, but used my favorite tenon saw as the template for sizing my hand. I made a 1/4" ply template and then made a couple "users" out of 1/2" Baltic birch.
That’s an upgrade from my current push block. I have a block of two 1x5 glued together with a cleat screwed on the back, no angles, holes, and very little for sanding or rounding over of the edges that I’m handling. I hate using the long plastic push sticks, I had one break from a kickback.
Greqt video. My most-used push stick is a block made from a scrap 2x4 with a heel screwed onto the back. I think using soft woods for the block is the best option since the saw blade chews through them easily without binding or shattering the push stick. Some brittle plastic push sticks can shatter and launch sharp shrapnel pieces. I like to use soft spf for my push block and a relatively dense cut of southern yellow pine for the heel. Or, for the heel. I also sometimes use scrap hardwoods from discarded and salvaged furniture that I sometimes find in alleys in my neighborhood. I think my current push block uses douglas fir for the block and syp for the heel, and it works fine. Both were offcut scraps of 2x dimensional lumber.
A push stick is like my safety glasses , air filters . Fire extinguishers,. All common sense items . I was gifted 2 Grippers . I absolutely love them ! Great video !
Great idea, but I might add a cutout from near front to back 1.25 inch from top about 1.5 inch deep to provide better downward pressure when required. . It would provide a more secure purchase of push stick. Otherwise great product. Also would make replaceable bottom of push stick so making new cutout would not be required.
Thanks for making the variety of videos to help us all keep thinking of creative building and working safe. Happy New Year and keep up the good, honest living!
Whether you build one these exact versions or not, Jay gives you most of the things you need to consider when you design your own. If you insist on making an exact copy of someone's, there are at least a hundred of the "best", "most perfect", "last push stick you will ever make" out there! Thanks for making us think, Jay!
Like the hole for a handle idea. Those thumb like grips seem weak with very short grain. Made a 3/4” thick one like that recently. The long flat bottom is important to register any bevel cut. It hadn’t occurred to me to me make a thicker one and sacrifice the bottom with periodic refreshment. I like Woodwork Web sliding block jig for thin strips.
Thanks Jay, a simple video, a simple pushstick, but great potential for [not only safety] but ease of operation at the various 'life-changing' machines. cheers
I made one of these many years ago when you made a video about these and I've never gone back to anything else. They're perfect and so easy to remake as needed!
Jay, I would highly recommend a sliding table attachment. Built without it for years, recently got a new saw and gave it a shot. Completely changed the game for me. I simply don't need push sticks 99% of the time with it. I was skeptical at first but now I just can't believe it took me so long to get it.
Well Jay....great video.......Made the push sticks......I like the 2x6 one the best.....I do a lot of 3/4 strip cutting and this is working out great. At the young age of 69......you can always learn new tricks.....thanks tons....keep up the videos and great work...... Have a great day...
I too have used several different styles of push sticks. The game changer for me hanging it by a counter balanced braided string directly over my cutting area. Sounds complicated but if you saw it (pun intended) you would hang your push stick up.
I've never owned a store bought push stick. My woodworking began in high school (that's how old I am) and they used push blocks too. Way better leverage throughout the cut. And so cheap to duplicate
Excellent presentation. I couldn't agree more: it doesn't really matter if you buy or make most of the items we have in our workshop/shed/workspace! In the end, it comes down to funds, space and personal preference. Whilst I probably would not consider making a table saw, I have made a number of basic push sticks along similar lines. Just offcuts of 4by2, 5by2 and the like. A number of years ago, I did purchase one of those yellow things, but just didn't reach for it that often, and like you said: after a few passes, that fine dust settles, and you really need that cleat. Personally, I prefer the chunky version as it adds to the heft, but that might be down to my laziness. That said, I've never been a fan of jigs and workshop aids that require every tool in the shop, have dozens of moving parts, and take a whole weekend to build. Thanks for sharing.👍
This is exactly what I’ve thought looking at the thin profile push blocks always see, they should look like! I’m new to the table saw but have been watching YT vids for days...your design is the first one like I thought it should be after looking at the typical silhouette style!
Thank you for the cool video, I am a new table saw user and have a set a grippers. Looks like I will be making your first version of push stick with the hole. I have questions about a few measurements. What is the height of the back of your push stick? How far is the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the push stick? What angle did you use on the front of the push stick? Finally, what is the height of the back of the push stick where the 45 degree angle meets? Thank you in advance for your time & response.
You are a true push-stick Jedi Master! Never hear anyone talk so constructively about a push- stick. Thanks, it’s on my To-Do list after I finish your mobile CNC table 😊👍
When you’ve purchased multiple Grrrrippers and have started to realize over time that you use them in such a way as to protect them from getting damaged by the blade, this will make even more sense. I love them for some tasks, but a regular, “cheapo” wood block pushing device is just better in many ways. Great stuff!
Oh please, as woodworkers we frequently use things that are far more “fiddly” than the Grripper. Seriously, glad you like your 2x6 but if you truly use the gripper a lot you get very quick at adjusting it. Its 2 screws for the main function…
I like your easy and pragmatic approach. I'm currently using a similar shape but done from plywood to suit the width of the cut. But I think I'll try your wider idea and see how I like it. And for sure it will be my new "thin stock jig" either way. My own fence is an add on over the stock fence so it's a little taller. The fence is 4 inches tall and the push boards I'm using are 1.5 to 2 inches taller than the fence add on. That gives me a nice grip area that is clear of the fence to hold onto the board. And I see that you have that same grip area that sits up higher than the fence. So perhaps it's appropriate to say that the stock width should be 1.5 to 2 inches wider than the height of the fence.
Really good info sir thanks! I heard you mention how uncomfortable it can be to turn that push stick sideways, which is what you needed to do at the bandsaw. Think I see a simple fix for that. I have had the same trouble with the rubber pads getting dusty quick and losing their grip. Def going to make one of these to try.
I like your videos! I have a background in sound. For years I played in bands and ran sound also. I was trying to figure out why your sound, sounded a little funny to me. Don't get me wrong, it's not that it is not clear or too loud or too soft or anything, but the way you have the mic attached to your hat make like a partial little cave in front of your face. This cause the sound to accentuate certain frequencies and makes it sound the way it does. It's just a little distracting (for me). It does sound natural. I watched many of your videos before when you had the mic placed on your upper chest. That (IMHO) sounds better. For what it's worth. Great perspective on the push stick. I agree.
My father used a supplied push stick for his table saw it was 9” piece of plastic about 1” square ish. And it failed he slipped and cut a chunk out of his fingertip, about one quarter of his nail nicked the bone. It has since healed all is good. Moral of story be skeptical of the jobber parts that come with big box stores tools.
I used to make my push sticks with a hole like you've shown but then opted for the handle style. Reason being, if the push stick ever got caught and kicked back, my fingers wouldn't be caught inside the hole. The handle version will allow the stick to fly and not wrench my fingers with it.
I don't consider that to be a push stick, it is a hold down stick. As you said in 2:54. I have a very simple safety rule. My hands do not go any closer than ~10" to the blade. This means the _push_ stick needs to be at least the amount of the blade exposed plus almost a foot. While *push* sticks push the stock past the _Goblin._ _Hold down_ sticks pass your hand over the *Goblin* _Push sticks_ ONLY use the nose, while _hold down_ sticks use the heel.
I can't understand why people use the chicken foot. 'How does that hold the wood down?' I've been using the John Heisz style for years, but 3/4 ... Maybe I should consider a wider base. Great tip on the thin strip jig. I will start to use from now on. Thanks Jay
Nice and valuable information however my Yellow and green MicroJig has saved my bacon at least 3 times now. I would recommend both the MicroJig system and this.
When you're making those thin rips, your finger is pushing right into the blade, and it's going to go into the blade as the end of the wood passes by if you keep pushing. Of course you're being mindful and careful as you make that cut, but table saw accidents happen because we become complacent and used to the danger. Why not use a block of wood to apply pressure from the side?
Yea I saw the same thing. Made me cringe when I saw it
Agree 100% it’s ironic
I like mine a little taller. I have a sacrificial bottom (the part that touches the wood) so when it gets chewed up I cut it off and glue on a new one. Thank you for the video. Well done 👍 and yes wood is by far the best material for a push stick.
Sir, this is a great idea. You are a genius. Thank you, God Bless, Stay Safe.
I have one that I can replace the bottom on and the hardwood cleat at the back. I have a second that is for cuts where the blade will never come in contact with it, so it will stay beautiful forever…or at least until I’m to lazy to look for the other one. 😂
Agreed! That’s exactly what I do.
From the first time you introduce that style of push stick i never look back. Simple and super safe.
I like to glue 3/4 inch scrap ply together to make a 1 1/2 inch push stick. Never have to worry about twisting of the wood and can make any height.
Just found your channel. I loved your detailed explanation of the push stick. Many others glaze over topics like this. I get the dynamics of a push stick and push block so much more now. Thank you. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
When I started out my woodworking hobby, I was intimated by the table saw and the first “accessory” I bought was the Gripper. But since it’s fairly expensive, as push sticks go, I would always worry about protecting it. It was videos like these that made me realize that I should be building my own. Love this style push stick, only change I made was to embed a magnet to the side so it sticks to my tools and it’s always there when I need it.
Great Video, thanks Jay! Agree 100% with shop built push sticks. One small tip is to spray paint them a bright color like red, as this helps then clearly stand out against the rest of the wood pieces around the workshop. Easy to find. Also you can see quickly where the stick is being chewed away, and might need re-surfacing.
It is for this reason I keep a roll or 2 of Safety Orange duct tape for everything that requires extra attention to the eye
I paint my push sticks and jigs that I'll be using again bright yellow.
Thanks Jay. I saw this video and went right to my shop and made the original version push stick. I love it. Great idea to make it 16 inches long. I don't have a hole cutter so I left the hole off my push stick. So far, I don't miss the hole. Of course, I can always buy a hole cutter and cut a hole into my push stick if I think I need it. By the way, I threw away my plastic push stick that came with my table saw. I hear that plastic push sticks can be very dangerous if they come into contact with a running saw blade. Flying pieces of broken plastic can be damaging to us. Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
I use 1/2 in ply in the shape of a big shoe. I put adhesive sand paper on the bottom / sole for applying even pressure towards the fence and never have a rocking issue….I ripped the design off of four eyes..love it
I’m just starting out with woodworking. Don’t have much in the way of these sorts of helpers, and this was just what I needed to see. Eyeballed your basic design, and whipped up my own in about 5 minutes with a jigsaw. It’s ugly, and I’ll get around to sanding it eventually. Maybe lol.
But it does exactly what I needed it to do, so thanks! 👌
I'm close to the beginning woodworker category, but this looks like it's worthwhile making (although I do intend to use the blade guard as much as I can). However, instead of making it 16" long, I'll probably make it 400mm long. 😜
My current push sticks are triangles I cut out of 1/2" plywood. They're about shot and need to be replaced soon. You've given me some interesting things to think about in making new ones. Thanks for sharing!
Good video. You voiced everything I've learned about my favorite push block. About 15 years ago I wanted a longer device to hold down a long thin bit of thin ply so I grabbed a dried out 2×10 off cut I picked up from new construction in the neighborhood and added a piece of scrap 1 by to screw onto the back. Tada!
I still use that exact same block today and it has been very sacrificial. The hook has been replaced twice now and the 2×10 looks like a wide 2×6 these days.
I use other sticks to assist at times but this old scrap sits on my tablesaw ready to go.
Late to the game but this is your first video that popped into my feed. What a great video, well spoken, very well explained , great presentation, and NO MUSIC over it to drive my old ears nuts. I like your design and will be building a few of them. Being mostly broke most of my life I have always just cut a notch in a likely looking scrap for my push sticks. I have subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos.
Hi Jay. I made some of your first generation push sticks and now I'm going to make a couple of the second gen sticks tomorrow. Thank you very much. Todd in NH.
That's my favorite style of push stick as well Jay. I make mine a bit shorter though and a bit taller (very slightly). I made a master template and use that to batch them out with a flush trim bit. Once I get my onefinity CNC I'll obviously be using that.
I have just built my first pair after having to resaw some wood using the commercial versions to help hold the stock. I´ll experiment with my brand-new push blocks and push sticks soon. Thanks for the explanations.
Thanks Jay. Very well said and thanks for the PDF! !! !!!
couldn't agree more, I've been using 2x4 scrap for push sticks for years, I just notch them out at the band saw and it's off to the races. Thanks
A little late to this video but I am glad I found it. Very informative. A table saw is the only item on my Christmas wish list so will be making a couple push sticks tomorrow. Thanks!
Very simple, perfect, that mean's there's less chance for me to screw it up. I also like how you go through all of your reasons for your push stick. You hit on one of the reasons for which I don't like traditional push sticks, I have to grope around to find it, or take my eyes off of my cut so I can find it quickly. Then there's how it can be used instead of a push block. Thanks.
I started using 1 1/2” wide push sticks with rear cleats several years ago and I have never looked back. Except I use 2 x 8 to place my hand further away from the blade. Small cost for increased safety. 👊
Nice design Jay. This is good timing. Was about to make a new one and now have additional ideas. Thanks!
@JayBates_YT Should I use your business email?
Thank you for the template. I made two push sticks and will add to my other sticks and do comparisons.
The length is the thing I like about the push stick. I use it the apply more pressure to the material when cutting a dado. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat tip!
Jay, I just made the original push stick that you are using, I really like it, all of my other ones are on the shelf....thanks
When I started woodworking around ten years ago, I eventually got a job site table saw and I made your push stick which I still use today, most definitely the best push stick ever, 100% . I like the way the blade can go through the bottom and that you can easily replace the cleat
Hey Jay - I have made your V1.0 push stick since I saw it probably a couple of years ago. It also has been my go to push stick. But thanks for showing some intricacies which I was not aware of and been missing on the application of those. Now will look into making the V2.0 push stick soon. Thanks again for all your no-nonsense, to the point videos showing affordable ideas around the shop.
I've been using a versiin of your old push block from years ago for a long time, and have found it to be exxellent.
Thanks Jay...again, perfect timing, as I was getting ready to buy a push stick/block and you made me realize otherwise.
An important topic comprehensively covered. At my age after a life on the tools, my hands are arthritic and several fingers have been broken/dislocated over the years. I am very still very attached to them.
I agree with you- I’d never buy or seldom use a plastic push stick. Mine have neodymium magnet/s in the side to attach the push stick to the open side of the cast iron table or to the outside of the fence (always handy, in position and easy to grab). Drill a hole, install the magnet and put duct or painters tape over the magnet to keep it in place. My cleat is a tight fitting dowel that I can adjust down, retract or replace.. My bandsaw push stick stays stuck on the blade guard or in front of the blade when not in use signaling the saw blade is not tensioned.
Good basic design. I like the grip slightly forward so I am putting more downward pressure on the work piece.
Hey Jay
Thank you for this video. I have been using a push stick very similar to your push stick 1.0. Mine is cut from a 4x4 that I cut down to 2 inches. Mine took a little more cutting and trimming but is very similar in profile to yours. I love the stability, the reach that I have with the 16 stick. Your video kind of validates the decision I made making Mine
.
totally agree, i've never used the push stick that came with saws. I 've always made my own, just like you, out of a 2x4, or 3/4 ply, or 1/2 ply for narrow stuff
The only commercial ones I have are the ones that come with machines I have purchased. Other than that I have been using a version of the one you made. They work great. I grab it 9 out of 10.
I 100% agree and have used your design for years. Another point to make is if you use a "plastic" store-bought push stick, you may compromise the safety and quality of your cut to make sure you do not damage your expensive grip. Thanks for a great video!!!
I have to thank you. I saw your original push stick video many years ago and it probably has saved my bacon many times over the years. I have no idea how anyone can use the Matthias method with the two little sticks. I tried that a long time ago and ended up with a piece thrown backwards into my garage door. Thank you Jay
Another handy thing for that is to attach a strong magnet for storage (mine is inset so it's flush with edge on the side). Of course keep it on the top where the blade won't get it. I store mine on the body of the saw. A small screw with a magnet that comes with a hold on one side will keep it on a cabinet underside of a table or the body saw easy. Always there and have access to it.
Excellent video. Thank you Jay.
I hope this video will save someone from injury.
Thank you from Depoe Bay Oregon for saving my extremities..
Well, I learn something every day. Thanks for thinking this out.
I just watched your video on push stick again, I’m going to make a new one . I was putting to much thought into it until I saw your video.thank you.😎
Great explanation, Jay.
Bill
Great video! My pushstick? I modeled mine like Frank Howarth's, but used my favorite tenon saw as the template for sizing my hand. I made a 1/4" ply template and then made a couple "users" out of 1/2" Baltic birch.
Thank you. Got me to rethink what I do at the table saw.
That’s an upgrade from my current push block. I have a block of two 1x5 glued together with a cleat screwed on the back, no angles, holes, and very little for sanding or rounding over of the edges that I’m handling. I hate using the long plastic push sticks, I had one break from a kickback.
Thanks very much. Downloaded the PDF. Will definitely make 2 for my workshop.
Greqt video. My most-used push stick is a block made from a scrap 2x4 with a heel screwed onto the back. I think using soft woods for the block is the best option since the saw blade chews through them easily without binding or shattering the push stick. Some brittle plastic push sticks can shatter and launch sharp shrapnel pieces. I like to use soft spf for my push block and a relatively dense cut of southern yellow pine for the heel. Or, for the heel. I also sometimes use scrap hardwoods from discarded and salvaged furniture that I sometimes find in alleys in my neighborhood. I think my current push block uses douglas fir for the block and syp for the heel, and it works fine. Both were offcut scraps of 2x dimensional lumber.
A push stick is like my safety glasses , air filters . Fire extinguishers,. All common sense items . I was gifted 2 Grippers . I absolutely love them ! Great video !
Extremely well thought out Jay and plan to make them asap, thank you!
I made one of the original Jay push beasts back years ago when you started. Still use it! I like your new ones.
Great idea, but I might add a cutout from near front to back 1.25 inch from top about 1.5 inch deep to provide better downward pressure when required. . It would provide a more secure purchase of push stick. Otherwise great product.
Also would make replaceable bottom of push stick so making new cutout would not be required.
Thanks for making the variety of videos to help us all keep thinking of creative building and working safe. Happy New Year and keep up the good, honest living!
Whether you build one these exact versions or not, Jay gives you most of the things you need to consider when you design your own. If you insist on making an exact copy of someone's, there are at least a hundred of the "best", "most perfect", "last push stick you will ever make" out there! Thanks for making us think, Jay!
Like the hole for a handle idea. Those thumb like grips seem weak with very short grain. Made a 3/4” thick one like that recently. The long flat bottom is important to register any bevel cut. It hadn’t occurred to me to me make a thicker one and sacrifice the bottom with periodic refreshment. I like Woodwork Web sliding block jig for thin strips.
Just saw your video and went out to the shop to make me one. I made the lighter version. Looking forward to using it soon.
Very nice, I'll make myself one
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
That’s me, retired and a beginning wood worker! Yep, I bought the Orange Plastic push stick from Amazon.
Thanks Jay, a simple video, a simple pushstick, but great potential for [not only safety] but ease of operation at the various 'life-changing' machines. cheers
Very nice video.
I made one of these many years ago when you made a video about these and I've never gone back to anything else. They're perfect and so easy to remake as needed!
Jay, I would highly recommend a sliding table attachment. Built without it for years, recently got a new saw and gave it a shot. Completely changed the game for me. I simply don't need push sticks 99% of the time with it. I was skeptical at first but now I just can't believe it took me so long to get it.
@Jay_Bates. with pleasure ) What are your thoughts?
Love everything you put out Brother! Keep on keeping on!
Well Jay....great video.......Made the push sticks......I like the 2x6 one the best.....I do a lot of 3/4 strip cutting and this is working out great. At the young age of 69......you can always learn new tricks.....thanks tons....keep up the videos and great work...... Have a great day...
I too have used several different styles of push sticks. The game changer for me hanging it by a counter balanced braided string directly over my cutting area. Sounds complicated but if you saw it (pun intended) you would hang your push stick up.
love it , going make some over weekend Jay
I've never owned a store bought push stick. My woodworking began in high school (that's how old I am) and they used push blocks too. Way better leverage throughout the cut. And so cheap to duplicate
Excellent presentation. I couldn't agree more: it doesn't really matter if you buy or make most of the items we have in our workshop/shed/workspace! In the end, it comes down to funds, space and personal preference.
Whilst I probably would not consider making a table saw, I have made a number of basic push sticks along similar lines. Just offcuts of 4by2, 5by2 and the like. A number of years ago, I did purchase one of those yellow things, but just didn't reach for it that often, and like you said: after a few passes, that fine dust settles, and you really need that cleat.
Personally, I prefer the chunky version as it adds to the heft, but that might be down to my laziness. That said, I've never been a fan of jigs and workshop aids that require every tool in the shop, have dozens of moving parts, and take a whole weekend to build. Thanks for sharing.👍
Thanks, Jay. Nice design(s) - easy to make so you don't hesitate to use it and get it chewed up.
This is exactly what I’ve thought looking at the thin profile push blocks always see, they should look like!
I’m new to the table saw but have been watching YT vids for days...your design is the first one like I thought it should be after looking at the typical silhouette style!
Thank you for the cool video, I am a new table saw user and have a set a grippers. Looks like I will be making your first version of push stick with the hole. I have questions about a few measurements. What is the height of the back of your push stick? How far is the bottom of the hole to the bottom of the push stick? What angle did you use on the front of the push stick? Finally, what is the height of the back of the push stick where the 45 degree angle meets? Thank you in advance for your time & response.
You are a true push-stick Jedi Master! Never hear anyone talk so constructively about a push- stick. Thanks, it’s on my To-Do list after I finish your mobile CNC table 😊👍
Nice, thanks. I will use this design.
When you’ve purchased multiple Grrrrippers and have started to realize over time that you use them in such a way as to protect them from getting damaged by the blade, this will make even more sense. I love them for some tasks, but a regular, “cheapo” wood block pushing device is just better in many ways. Great stuff!
Too fiddly for me and the green stuff looses traction too soon. Glad you have a setup you are comfortable with.
I've always kinda figured that something's wrong when it takes longer to adjust the "push stick" than it does to make the cut.
Oh please, as woodworkers we frequently use things that are far more “fiddly” than the Grripper. Seriously, glad you like your 2x6 but if you truly use the gripper a lot you get very quick at adjusting it. Its 2 screws for the main function…
@@andrhammThey’re too fiddly for my likes as well. 😁 To each their own.
@@andrhammYep - if the 2 screws on the Gripper are too much for you, setting the blade height and fence position must be unimaginable 😂
So simple and amazing but seems safety at its core. Great work Jay. Greeting from Australia
12:45 Have remember to turn off dehumidifier ? 🤔
Very insightful tips, thank you.
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@@JayBates Just kidding,
Look at the sticker on the bandsaw fence.
Thanks for sharing, I do like your design for the jointer even the big micro jig push pads do slip now and then.
I like your easy and pragmatic approach. I'm currently using a similar shape but done from plywood to suit the width of the cut. But I think I'll try your wider idea and see how I like it. And for sure it will be my new "thin stock jig" either way. My own fence is an add on over the stock fence so it's a little taller. The fence is 4 inches tall and the push boards I'm using are 1.5 to 2 inches taller than the fence add on. That gives me a nice grip area that is clear of the fence to hold onto the board. And I see that you have that same grip area that sits up higher than the fence. So perhaps it's appropriate to say that the stock width should be 1.5 to 2 inches wider than the height of the fence.
Thanks Jay!
Been away for a few years. You've come a lonnng way from the "apartment shop"! CONGRATS!
Really good info sir thanks! I heard you mention how uncomfortable it can be to turn that push stick sideways, which is what you needed to do at the bandsaw. Think I see a simple fix for that. I have had the same trouble with the rubber pads getting dusty quick and losing their grip. Def going to make one of these to try.
I like your videos! I have a background in sound. For years I played in bands and ran sound also. I was trying to figure out why your sound, sounded a little funny to me. Don't get me wrong, it's not that it is not clear or too loud or too soft or anything, but the way you have the mic attached to your hat make like a partial little cave in front of your face. This cause the sound to accentuate certain frequencies and makes it sound the way it does. It's just a little distracting (for me). It does sound natural. I watched many of your videos before when you had the mic placed on your upper chest. That (IMHO) sounds better. For what it's worth.
Great perspective on the push stick. I agree.
Sir, this is so informative and helpful. Greatly appreciated!
My father used a supplied push stick for his table saw it was 9” piece of plastic about 1” square ish. And it failed he slipped and cut a chunk out of his fingertip, about one quarter of his nail nicked the bone. It has since healed all is good.
Moral of story be skeptical of the jobber parts that come with big box stores tools.
Appreciate this! Will make at least 2!
Another lovely one, buddy!
Great video as always. My push sticks are not as long but after hearing your reasons for the length I may make a few to try out. 🙏🏼❤️✝️❤️🙏🏼
I used to make my push sticks with a hole like you've shown but then opted for the handle style. Reason being, if the push stick ever got caught and kicked back, my fingers wouldn't be caught inside the hole. The handle version will allow the stick to fly and not wrench my fingers with it.
The PHYSICAL cleat on the back makes the difference, and is MUCH safer to use, especially for the jointer.
I don't consider that to be a push stick, it is a hold down stick.
As you said in 2:54. I have a very simple safety rule. My hands do not go any closer than ~10" to the blade. This means the _push_ stick needs to be at least the amount of the blade exposed plus almost a foot.
While *push* sticks push the stock past the _Goblin._ _Hold down_ sticks pass your hand over the *Goblin*
_Push sticks_ ONLY use the nose, while _hold down_ sticks use the heel.
I can't understand why people use the chicken foot. 'How does that hold the wood down?' I've been using the John Heisz style for years, but 3/4 ... Maybe I should consider a wider base. Great tip on the thin strip jig. I will start to use from now on. Thanks Jay
I haven't bought a push stick for years! I make mine like the second one you showed out of thick plywood scraps.
Great advice Jay, thanks!
GREAT Info & Ideas Dude !!
Very helpful Jay!
Thank you!!
Nice and valuable information however my Yellow and green MicroJig has saved my bacon at least 3 times now. I would recommend both the MicroJig system and this.
Great tips thanks for sharing