I just finished all of them. I loved how you admitted things you did not know but made do and used your head. I learned along with you instead of being told "This is how it's done because I am an expert." Great job and now I know what I need to do with mine.
Lots of work but your patience and persistence paid off! Congratulatoions! As a sharpener (now retired), I found so much time would be taken for saw sharpening, I couldn't find the time to do it and sharpen clipper blades, repair clippers, and miscellaneous instruments of equal importance such as shears and other vet instruments. Always wished i had more time! Jack
After watching all four videos, I fully expected to see the saw make it through 1 log. You are very patient man but so are the viewers of this video. We whould have liked to seen you complete your cut. Just a note on sanding the gunk and rust, I have seen old timers lightly tap the teeth flat so they would be able to sand the teeth too. Later they would re-set them anyway. Good video, keep it up.
Nice job, what did the noodles look like? I wonder if taking out the metal between the cutters would have made it easier to set? I have one saw that is a perforated lance and has short teeth.
The shavings looked a little thin, which I adjusted by lowering the rakers a tad. As for the cutter teeth, I like the angle I sharpened then. I didnt want to take too much metal off and possibly have them wear out sooner. But time will tell and its something you have to learn as you go. Thanks!
Rosehillfarm On a perforated lance tooth saw like this one, when the teeth get short from filing the little bridges between the teeth can just be filed out. The bridges or braces help support the teeth when they are longer (new) and are not really needed when the teeth are shorter. Removing the bridges makes it easier to set the teeth and easier to file individual cutter teeth. Jim
You don't list the tolerances for setting the teeth. I have a one-man saw and I can't find the tolerances for it. Where did you get the tolerances? The offset should be uniform. They have offset pliers for this so you don't need a spider unless you bend it too much..
You don't set the rakers till after you file the cutters. The height you set them to needs to be below the cutters which are actually shortened when filed. Also that saw is for felling not bucking
Ive watched this whole series because I was hoping to learn how that Simonds tool worked. It is obvious once you showed it’s features. May I suggest that you spend a bit more time working on your upper body strength and fine motor skills if you plan to work around these tools? Chill out dude! You are over-thinking a process that works and has worked for hundreds of years. They would have never ground all of the other teeth down to match a tooth that had been accidentally cut to low as I believe you said you were going to do or did??? That would have been a waste of material and effort and the net gain in the final aspect of the saws performance would have been negligible at best. Not being critical here, I’m thrilled that a young person is interested in working with this type of tech. Thanks for the demo of the tool and good luck with hand-tool woodworking or cutting or whatever got you interested.
Развлечения
I just finished all of them. I loved how you admitted things you did not know but made do and used your head. I learned along with you instead of being told "This is how it's done because I am an expert." Great job and now I know what I need to do with mine.
Thanks for showing this process.
I have one of those Simmond saw tools and came to see how to use it.
Lots of work but your patience and persistence paid off! Congratulatoions! As a sharpener (now retired), I found so much time would be taken for saw sharpening, I couldn't find the time to do it and sharpen clipper blades, repair clippers, and miscellaneous instruments of equal importance such as shears and other vet instruments. Always wished i had more time!
Jack
Just watched all four, Thanks for taking the time to make these, I have learnt so much.
Instead of using your needle nose vise grips, use a small crescent wrench tightened to fit the tooth.
Lee Gibbs ,an old crosscut sawyer
After watching all four videos, I fully expected to see the saw make it through 1 log. You are very patient man but so are the viewers of this video. We whould have liked to seen you complete your cut. Just a note on sanding the gunk and rust, I have seen old timers lightly tap the teeth flat so they would be able to sand the teeth too. Later they would re-set them anyway. Good video, keep it up.
You have an amazing degree of patience & fine attention to detail. Thanks very much for sharing your story.
Fantastic series! I learned a lot...greatly appreciated, and more importantly, Inspired!
great video and great series she looks like she cuts well congratulations
Nice video. But I needed to see the log cut to completion 😂
Very good vids. Thank you.
not bad, a little oil on the blade helps when sawing or even WD
Does that saw have any markings on it?
Nice job, what did the noodles look like? I wonder if taking out the metal between the cutters would have made it easier to set? I have one saw that is a perforated lance and has short teeth.
The shavings looked a little thin, which I adjusted by lowering the rakers a tad. As for the cutter teeth, I like the angle I sharpened then. I didnt want to take too much metal off and possibly have them wear out sooner. But time will tell and its something you have to learn as you go. Thanks!
Rosehillfarm
On a perforated lance tooth saw like this one, when the teeth get short from filing the little bridges between the teeth can just be filed out. The bridges or braces help support the teeth when they are longer (new) and are not really needed when the teeth are shorter. Removing the bridges makes it easier to set the teeth and easier to file individual cutter teeth. Jim
+Jim Thode I agree.
That’s a felling saw so that probably why it keeps kinking up a little while you were using it as a bucking saw, try using it to fell a tree.
She cuts!!
You don't list the tolerances for setting the teeth.
I have a one-man saw and I can't find the tolerances for it. Where did you get the tolerances? The offset should be uniform. They have offset pliers for this so you don't need a spider unless you bend it too much..
You don't set the rakers till after you file the cutters. The height you set them to needs to be below the cutters which are actually shortened when filed. Also that saw is for felling not bucking
The video you referred to showing where you learned the steps, does not work. Your video is not too bad.
Ive watched this whole series because I was hoping to learn how that Simonds tool worked. It is obvious once you showed it’s features. May I suggest that you spend a bit more time working on your upper body strength and fine motor skills if you plan to work around these tools? Chill out dude! You are over-thinking a process that works and has worked for hundreds of years. They would have never ground all of the other teeth down to match a tooth that had been accidentally cut to low as I believe you said you were going to do or did??? That would have been a waste of material and effort and the net gain in the final aspect of the saws performance would have been negligible at best. Not being critical here, I’m thrilled that a young person is interested in working with this type of tech. Thanks for the demo of the tool and good luck with hand-tool woodworking or cutting or whatever got you interested.