How A Suit Should Fit II - Secrets About Suits Nobody Talks About
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
- Check out the Complete Guide with twice as much information o how suits should fit no matter if you are going for a slim fit or regular fit here gentl.mn/how-a-suit-should-fi...
Missed the first How A Suit Should Fit video? Click here: • How A Suit Should Fit ...
Learn the huge differences between a $100 and $1000 suit: gentl.mn/2wLdFiN
Sleeve length guide: gentl.mn/2femuvg
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2. Knit Tie in Solid Rust Orange Silk - gentl.mn/2xj0Hx4
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While most people look at the front, a back can really tell you if a jacket fits perfectly or not. First, the top of your back right underneath the collar; you shouldn't have any lines that are horizontal or vertical. Same thing all the way down. The only area where you can have a few wrinkles is around your armpit underneath the shoulders simply because you need that for the range movement, otherwise, if you see a suit from the back and it's very clean and hangs very neat and the vents don't gap, I can bet with you that the rest of the suit will fit well because something like that will never fit like that off the rack. You'll always have to have either some alterations or it's a made to measure or bespoke garment.
We move to the front of the jacket. You ideally want to see an hourglass shape or a v-shape on top and then a skirt that drapes slightly out in the bottom, it's very flattering. In the US, there used to be a sack suit style but that's not really flattering because it makes you actually look like a potato sack. If you see X wrinkles, that means your jacket is too tight especially around the buttoning point. If you see vertical wrinkles in the front on your chest, that means it's too big.
One thing that's often never talked about is balance and by that, I mean the length and the proportions of the front and the back when looked at from the side. As I mentioned before, most of the time, the back is shorter in the front and getting it completely level is very hard to achieve and usually only something you find with bespoke tailors.
One thing that has a huge impact on the way your jacket looks are the front quarters and how they're cut. Traditionally, the quarters a much more closed which in my opinion provides an old man look versus if you have more open rounded quarters that are cut up slightly, It provides a certain dynamic. Now, if you open your quarters too much, you may actually end up seeing the tip of your tie or maybe even your dress shirt from underneath the buttoning point which is a bad look. So you always have to coordinate the quarters with the rise of your pants. If you have more open quarters, you want higher rise pants. If you have a lower and more closed quarters, it doesn't matter which brings us to the next point.
which is the buttoning point. If your tie pokes out from underneath the buttoning point, the fit is off. In most cases, the buttoning point should be around your natural waist which is usually the belly button were slightly above the buttoning point can have a huge impact in how you're perceived visually. Let's say you're a shorter guy, you can slightly elevate that buttoning point because it will give you the appearance of having slightly longer legs. The same is true for my body type; I have a long torso and relatively short legs, so I bring up the buttoning point ever so slightly, that way I look pretty proportional I get that one to one aspect ratio in my length and I'm just dapper and people would never assume that I have shorter legs than another man of my height.
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I'm new to GG. I've been on Alpha M. for about 5 months now an Aaron is very good. But this guy...is GREAT!!!! I'm very glad I'm subscribed here.
Glad to hear that!
That about says it. If you're ready graduate from AM, this is where to go. :)
I have to agree. AM is very good...really really good. But GG raises the bar several notches above and beyond AM. I love learning the historical contexts behind certain garments and so on. Really fascinating stuff.
Anthony Johnson also check out Real Men Real Style
@@gentlemansgazette your AMAZING...I wish we could could go Wedding Tuxedo shopping😎
Absolutely amazing video Sven! Thank you for this! Just as good as the first video!
Tailors hate him, click here to find out why!
Sir, you have very soft and nice style of speaking
Prince Charles most likely has a royal tailor or speed dial to Savile Row!
Great video as always!
Once again great video. Could you make a video about the making of a custom made suit. Right from the measuring and fitting to the making of the suit (you would have to share some of the spot light with your tailor). It would be very interesting. That way you could make comments about the right way a suit should be cut to get the desired look. Also what to look out for in a bad suit. Thanks and keep up the good work. Look forward to every new video.
Can't wait to have a bespoke suit.
it had been 4 years, do you have one?
go with charcoal color
thanks for the video, much appreciated. pls let me ask you a sort of a personal question, how much did it cost to make the suit?
Furthermore, if you can make a video talking about trouser, and how to prevent your trousers from breaking in the knee area. I remember you saying in one of your videos that there are 23 areas to consider to prevent such defects, can educate us on it
Great video !!
Informative . Well done.
Love it. Keep these videos coming. I don't know why this video got so many dislikes.
Make sure to share it so more people can like it, thanks!
Love the fine houndstooth pattern and own 2 suits with that patter (different colors and sets).
Wait. There's going to be an entire video on buttoning? I am so down.
Thanks for the vid, sir. Some of your most compelling work.
Thank you =)
Thank you, I understood a lot!
Nice suit, fits you very well
That's a nice classic fitting jacket, I would wear the pants as they are with balmoral dress boots though, or length them for a little break when used with oxfords & derbies.
Your suit is 10/10
I want one like yours
Good work 👍
I can never find jackets that fit properly as the tailor said I was barrel chested. I always seem to to have to compromise on some aspect of the fit. Is there any advice you can give to find the dapper UK look for casual wear on a budget. I can't afford bespoke. ThankYou.
Thank you for these infros. I like your videos a lot. But I found the volumes in this channels are relativity low/too quiet. Is that possible you can make volume a bit louder
3 roll 2 ... very nice detail :-)
On your next video, can you please give us a tour through your shoe collection?
It would be a long video, lol ;)
I love the video as per usual! But, you should consider having different backgrounds because the whit/grey is very stark and makes the video hard to look at. Maybe a complementing sheet hung behind you would work better.
Can you make a video like this about how a white tie ensemble should fit? (Evening Tails)
These videos are a gift. Highest quality out there
11 dislikes? thats no gentleman behaviour!
Some people will always hit the dislike button, so don't worry about it. Usually 90% + give us a thumbs up...
probably poor hand eye coordination :)
Will we get a video about zoot suits?
Finding drop 8 suits is tough. In fact, I've never found one in my size yet. I have only bought drop 7's and had the waist taken in on the jacket, then it's waist, seat and hem for the pants. Tailoring every time. Recommend any good Italian/British out of the box drop 8 suit makers?
Very nice 👍
Great video! How about the length of sleeves? Is it just about personal preference?
Check out our sleeve length guide as linked below the video.
I went to Nordstrom rack and the tailor that worked there said the suit I purchased didn't need any altering, at the time I didn't know how a suit should fit so I didn't know how to reply to her, I ended up agreeing and walking out with my tail between my legs. thank you so much for this video! I am now better equipped with the knowledge I need to look dapper and be the best dressed me I can be. Also, Is there any suggestions for finding the right tailor?
I came across oliverwicks. I haven’t tried them, nor have I seen any reviews. But I’d be interested in hearing if you get a suit
nobody in thailand or vietnam. the whole proffesion is like a used car salesman
How about Regal fit suits? Are they meant to fit bigger than the actual size?
What suit alterations or tips would you recommend for someone who carries a pistol inside the waistband?
@株式会社東京建設 a smart man who wants to protect his loved ones
Hello Sven (and his loyal subscribers), I have an important question; where do you find a tailor?
I live near Seattle Washington, USA, and simply cannot find a single men's tailor! All I have found are tailors for women's bridal wear.
Hi Sven, I'd like to know where I can get a suit like the one you're wearing in this video, would you please share this with me? I'm a traditional gentlemen and I usually go with a traditional classic look, I've always been inclined to look for men's clothing that is seen in movies from the 30's and 40's. There's a movie called "Allied" that Brad Pitt stared in and came out on video video recently, the movie takes place during the WWII era and the wardrobe is absolutely amazing. Can you tell me where I can find a Norfolk suit? Thank you Sir.
Please watch Part I, where I talk about the outfit gentl.mn/how-a-suit-should-fit-ii
Thanks for another good video. Posted a question on part one not sure if you saw it so I will ask again I live in the twin cites and cannot seem to find a good tailor do you have any places you recommend or tips to look for one thanks.
I have not found anything in the TwinCities that satisfies me when it comes to suits, sorry.
Gentleman's Gazette thank you any good tailor shops for alterations that you know of then maybe
What's the material of your grey suit, Sven?)
Please watch part I where I mention it gentl.mn/how-a-suit-should-fit-ii
Sir I would like to inquire on balmoral boots I looked on your website on the boots guide you have but I was wondering if you know any good brands just wondering. have a wonderful day
Sven has a q&a that deals with what shoe brands are worth the price, so check that out. Any widely known quality shoe maker like Allen Edmond or Alden would be a good place to start.
The button suspenders in this video I can’t find them to Buy the ones with the little wing/flaps in the back. Do you have a reference where I could buy a pair
Albert Thurston makes great suspenders.
notification squad!
In Sweden you can't wear a white tie. Yes you Can only on funerals
Proper Gents .
Getting the back right is a pain in the butt when shopping for rtw clothes. You either need to get a friend who knows about fit or have a store that has lots of mirrors in the fitting room.
suede light brown Chukka boots look very weird with that suit, maybe black would look better
Nice Trade no, they look ok, trust professionals
Dutch:hij heet niet voor niets Schneider:vertaald kleermaker of cutter 😂
Somehow I fell like the trousers could be a little tighter?
I’m looking for a good suit!! Maybe on eBay or something where I can get a nice quality suit that will fit great!! I live in a town in Texas, however there is not many options!
Try to looking for a taylor in your town sir. I am sure you have one there who can make you a bespoke nice suit. This is the best choice if you want a suit to fit you perfect. Take care.
If only I had the money to have a good suit, let alone a suit that fits well
I find his suit to be baggy typical of the "ols fashioned old timers"
The jacket is very well fitting, but the trousers, while the right length, are a little too wide for my liking. I like them to fit slimmer.
I like how the jacket fits.
Please for the love of god update your suits.
AM i the only one that thinks his width of his leg pants is too wide?
Sir you has only one shuit
I use all of my buttons. I hate leaving myself undone.
I'm always in a suit.
Trousers are too short, they should always break on the shoes, looks horrible if they don't.
but the back see wrinkles on your back of your suit
eww pleats
Non-Stop annoying SNARE DRUM. Can’t watch 😮.