How Pants Should Fit -- 4 Point Fit Guide
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Fit is first and foremost important for my suit trousers, dress pants and casual chinos. They need to be comfortable but also flattering. In this video I go over 4 points to go over to assess if the pants are a good fit. I also give some tips if it isn't a great fit and what you can do.
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So glad you’re explaining the high rise pants are more flattering. Men’s fashion has constantly produced unflattering cuts in the name of “breaking the rules” and “being different”. The results have been disastrous and make men look unflattering.
Glad you appreciate the video. Rise on pants is so important to strike a nice proportion.
Good style principles were figured out by the post war era, but consumerist propaganda has convinced people they need to constantly churn through new looks out of a completely manufactured fear of looking "old fashioned". It hasnt just made men look ridiculous, its a tremendous waste of resources and created unprecedented levels of toxic garbage.
Is it possible to find pants with a proper rise off-the-rack?
@@The_Methodist_Perspective It's tough -- but I do offer them at my shop. If you are interested have a look here: www.principlem.com/shop-all/bottom
Those are not high rise trousers. In the video those are "mid-rise" trousers. The real high rise is when trousers button above belly button.
That point on how the pants should be measurement wise makes so much sense now. Should be more roomy for sitting but cut differently to make your figure look slim. Helps a ton with what to look for!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
I too am a teen from the 90s and have been wearing my jeans/pants low on my hips for decades. Now I am older and trying to look more like an adult, I am trying new clothes styles. thanks for being clear about where they should sit. I have a longer torso so tucking my shirt in has always felt uncomfortable. I never knew if where I was wearing my pants was the right height.
It's great that you're trying new things and finding what looks best and feels comfortable on you!
Get many opinions and then go with your gut. We all know what opinions are like. Personally, I say hi rise makes you look disproportionate. Low rise makes you look symmetrical. Saying high rise is more handom is something my grandma would say to my grandpa who hikes his trousers up to his tits because he's in his 80s. It also funny nobody every talks about body shape. If you have a bigger torso, you need baggier bottoms. Look at an extreme example: Joe Rogan. Massive upper body and he's short. He'd look absolutely ridiculous with no break, thin pants.
Great video, Justin. A quick addition for those of you who want a more "traditional" high rise trouser; you'll want the top of the waistband to sit at the natural waist - which is usually above the naval and roughly lines up with your elbow crease.
It's where I personally like to have mine and the look is wonderful with some English double pleats, turnups and braces. It's almost certain you'll not find that kind of rise with RTW, so it has to be either MTM or bespoke.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Pants fit always an issue. A lot of guys can't make sense of it. Mostly, their pants don't have high enough rise.
Absolutely, again, I think this is an issue with RTW -- we just have such a varying figure that there is no way a standardized size will do us justice.
Thank you for making this video, I have big legs and always have trouble when sitting, it just becomes a super skinny fit. Now I understand what kind of fit is needed for my body type
Great! I hope you can find a better fitting trouser. Another tip is to size up, then they might be a bit more relaxed in the leg, but loose in the waist, however the waist is very easy to alter and usually not as expensive as altering the thighs
this video is so insightful, I can't ever find pants or trousers that fit. I think I might buy my pants custom made :)
I'm glad you found this helpful. If you are interested in going custom, I'm always here to help out. Here is some info on our tailoring program: www.principlem.com/tailoring
The older I get the more frequently I see how and why the classics are the classics when it comes to dressing well.
I appreciate how you explained how function has everything to do with the fit. Or does fit have everything to do with function?
They are so intertwined in classical clothing. Could be either way.
I do agree with your opinion of visual perception and optical illusion. However, while comparing the low-rise trouser with the high-rise, it seems to be a little biased as the low-rise trouser are too tight in the crotch area thereby causing creases, stacked at the bottom as well as knees whereas the high-rise trouser has good free fall with a stiff iron at the centre and also portraying a no break.
You are right, but the low-rise comparison is visually what I see a lot of guys in nowadays, making it more relatable to others and so they can see, visually, what kind of improvements they can make. Plus, even if the low rise on the left were not tight in the crotch, had a clean drape and didn't bunch up throughout the leg, they wouldn't look right proportionally and my legs would look short and wouldn't achieve a nice proportional aesthetic.
I didn't know I needed that. Thanks
Once you realize all this, it changes everything and you will never be able to wear low-rise, ill-fitting pants again.
big concern with high rising pants. Fit perfectly while standing. When sit down, either too tight on waist or too tight on thighs and calf. Any suggestion?
Hi Kevin, when sitting, I find I need to adjust the waist down a bit to remove pressure from my belly but the best option for me is to sit up straighter with my belly naturally becoming flatter. This type of issue is less of a problem on V-shape body types and more pronounced on H-Type (like me) or A-type bodies. The second concern of the pants being too tight on the thighs and claf has little to do with the rise of the trousers and more with the actual circumference, try finding high-rise pants with a slightly wider cut in the thigh and calf and the problem should be solved.
yeah, perfect size and look of those pieces!
Yes indeed!
Perfect explanation with examples, this video would have saved me some money a year ago. Nowdays I cannot wear low rise pants anymore, they are unbearable. You can add that higher rise helps keep shirt tucked all day allowing for easier upper body movement.
Peculiar how I ordered sometime ago exactly the same beige tropical wool trousers, but since then I started liking something like 1930 style cut, where the rise is actually above belly button and hem covers at least half of the shoe. This style provides me with ultimate comfort and makes my legs appear strong and sturdy
Nice! Thank you for sharing.
The fit is tough for us weightlifters to get right. Do you have any advice for pants that fit well or are loose around the waist but tight in the thighs?
The reality is a weightlifter who has a slim waist and strong hips and thighs will never be able to find a decent fitting pair of pants. If you can't access custom or don't want to do custom online, try to find RTW pants that fit comfortably in the hips and thigh, then alter the waist and reduce it to fit more comfortably. If interested in going custom message me and we can set up a virtual fitting over a call: www.principlem.com/contact
Great tips for a wheelchair user.
Great channel, Justin.
Thanks, Jacob.
Hi, Justin! Thanks for another insightful video. Could I ask for your advice with how to prevent trousers from catching on over-the-calf socks and not draping properly? I found that my trousers tended to do that after making the switch to over-the-calf, especially after standing up as the trouser legs catch on my calf. I also noticed that this tended to happen with my trousers made from more textured cloth like flannel and high twist. Could it be an issue of the trouser leg opening being too small? I opted for a 7-inch opening diameter for that tapered Neapolitan look, but could that be contributing to the problem? Thanks!
Hi Matthew, I know what you mean. I had this problem with my flannel trousers and wool OTC socks. I used to have 8 1/4 inch cuffs but am closer to 8 3/4 now, so widening cuffs is one solution. However, cuff opening size is relative to your height and weight and could also depend if you have stronger calf muscles. So I don’t know if 7 inches is on the small side without a reference point. Other than a larger cuff opening, you could also do full lining if you go custom with your trousers for the winter pants, which is what I do-this also helps with static in winter in a dry climate. Last point, I usually wear cotton socks now, which tend to reduce static and the pants sticking when I sit/stand.
@@Justin_Kwan Thank you, Justin! I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. With my last bespoke commission, we went with full lining for that same reason actually, and it worked out rather well! It does run a tad warmer though, but it's manageable and worth the benefit of the enhanced drape. As you suggested, I'll definitely start opting for a wider leg opening in general to help in all cases, especially in the case of summer trousers where the full lining would be too warm. Really been enjoying the quality of your videos since I discovered the channel. Again, thanks for kindly taking the time to reply to me personally! A fan from Manila :)
Just glad to help out!
Excellent suggestions and recommendations on properly fitting trousers...just one question when wearing braces do you suggest the clip-on type or having buttons sewn onto the trousers?
Always go with buttons imo, they are more resilient
clip ons are what people wear that think they look distinguished but actually make a fool of themselves, horrible style.
Buttons are more resilient as mentioned and I find them to be more fleek and less clunky. Clip on version might lose their strength over time and they could potentially wear out or damage the waist band.
When you mention allowance in the hips, how much would that be? 1 or 2 inches
Typically 1-2 inches, but it can vary from brand to brand.
It's hard to find high rise trousers these days. They are either costly or you just have to buy a larger size.
It’s can be frustrating but also allows a small brand like mine to survive and serve this niche.
Those are outstanding pants
Thanks for appreciating our work!
i never know what to use between 32 and 33. on levis 501 its too tight or too loose... doesnt make sense. ive always been a bit large on my but and thighs... so maybe its that. i always fold them at the bottom though XD.... levis 33 are perfect when new but then get too loose... 32 are always too tight even if i get used to them. im a normal build, 1,78cm and 80 kg... maybe losing 5 kilos will make me use 32 with a great fit... recently bought a pair o chinos with a bit of high rise like those on the cideo, size 32, on the store they immediatly looked great all over, but now theyre looking a bit tight when i go up stairs or sit down... they start to rise a bit and feel tight. id love to wear 33 with a belt but it feels baggy with some models... its a nightmare.
And with the levis 501 33, because of the high rise, the jeans go down cause too loose and it starts hurting my skin on the thighs cause of the sewing inside...
I know the frustration you are having, I used to go through this, too. I used to hate going up a size and then reducing the waist because I felt like the hips and thighs were baggy, but that wasn't the problem. The problem was I was conditioned to need them to feel tight because pants never fit right, so if they were someone loose, it felt so weird. However, after learning more, trying and experimenting, I learned that's how they are supposed to be! Now, I fully embrace a loose fit but with a good cut, so they drape clean and have that nice crips trouser crease with a clean hem without too much break. It takes time because most of us men can't be told what to do, we need to learn it on our own. But give going up a size a try, then reduce the waist. However, with Levis it's nearly impossible to reduce the waist due to the way denim is manufactured and made. Good luck! Trial and error will get you to where you want to be with fit!
Please do the same for
Jeans
Half sleeve tees
Full sleeve tees
Henleys
V neck
Shirt
It might look a lot but you can cover the t shirts category in one video btw i forgot polos....
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep that in mind for future videos.
Its so hard to find one that understands that almond shape, and the importance of that extra room on the hips and I thinks the pleats adds to the extra room, my dresspants are either too tight on the waist or hips , those taylors Ive been to are just not getting the fit right😢 Ive spend alot yet the fit is still uncomfortable when sitting ,im not getting the right fit, Can you give me a sample cut or a guide that I could give to the taylor for lets say for me , im size 39-40 waist? Thank you so much❤
It sounds like you need to find a tailor who understands a fuller cut and can help you with your measurements. If you've tried to acheive this kind of cut and fit and missed the mark, I recommend trying to change tailors if possible and start by searching for pictures of the tailors cut and style. If you are interested, we could also try to give virtual MTM a shot together, drop me a message here if interested: www.principlem.com/contact
@Justin_Kwan Thank you for the tips and suggestion.
For me I see it in two ways: continental and drape cut.
Thank you for this educational video. It is a PAIN to see 99% of men dressed in ugly trousers that don’t fit, and the irony is that these people believe their pants fit perfectly because they’re labeled “slim” or, better yet, “tailored” fit. Narrow silhouette is fine. What makes modern off the rack pants ugly and ill fitting is the low waist that throws off all the proportions and proper balance.
Amen! Thanks for sharing.
Can you suggest me a fit? I have 34 seat and 20 thigh. So what should the pant measurements be for a flattering silhouette?
What is your waist measurement?
@Justin_Kwan 28-29
@@ashiqujjamanmunna For me, usually the pant measurement in the thigh is 3-4 inches larger than my thigh and around 3-4 inches larger in my seat (thats with pleats). For you, I'd try to find a trouser with a thigh +3 and hips, +3 since you are a bit slimmer than I am. It's not an exact science and there is some art involved, but give that a try. You might also have some trial and error throughout the process of finding what suits you best and what you like best. Good luck, hope this is helpful.
very nice, sir
Many many thanks
2:35 how coime somepants tent up a lot more?
Good question; when you have a higher rise, that means the pants are longer from the crotch up to the waist. When you sit down, this length on our body is shortened on our body by sitting and the fabric of the trouser will usually tent up. It's an unavoidable but also completely normal.
@Justin_Kwan that makes sense 🤯
Where can i find highrise jeans as a man. So difficult to purchase a nice fitting pair of jeans
I feel your pain. I designed a high rise denim trouser that you might like, and if you subscribe on my website, I'll shoot out an email next spring when we get more traditional 5 pocket denim in stock. www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/denim-chino-v3
Hey, when I sit and cross my legs over in a figure four lock, is it normal for there to be pulling in the thigh area? I got custom trousers from suit supply and this is happening. Thank you so much
Fit can be very subjective. In my trousers when I cross my legs there is no pulling in the thigh. It sounds like your trousers are a little tight in the thigh, the front balance could also be a tad short, but I'd only be able to tell if I saw the pics. If you want me to take a look, send a front, side and back picture of the pants and I can help assess the situation. www.principlem.com/contact
great video! subbed
Thanks for subscribing.
I have trouble finding pants where my crotch doesn't show. Even when I wear a straight leg. Any suggestions?
I might need more context but it sounds like what you mean is it's quite tight in the crotch area? If so, this means the hips are probably too tight and the rise is too short. Try pants that have a high rise and with pleats, like the chinos we have on our website. They will offer more room and comfort but they are also designed to have a flattering silhouette. Have a look here: www.principlem.com/shop-all/bottom
@@Justin_Kwan exactly as you said. I do have big muscular legs so I'm not sure if that's part of the problem. The waist feels fine but tight at the butt and quads. But thank you I will be checking out the website 👍
@@RMS12.2 Last tip, if you want to buy ready to wear, you will need something that fits in your hips and thighs comfortably, meaning the waist on those pants will inevitably be too big. However, it is easier to alter and reduce the waist of a ready to wear pair of pants than to find a waist that fits and alter the hips and thighs to be bigger and fit comfortably. Or, go MTM, which I can help with if you drop me a line: www.principlem.com/contact
I’m 6ft tall so I prefer a full break I do not like showing too much ankle when I walk.
This brings up a good point I didn't get into in the video: based on proportions, usually shorter gents look best in a very clean break, whereas taller gents look fine in either a clean break or full break.
Anyone know a good suspenders brand? i bought 2 pairs of "argento" but the clasps didnt last 4 wears and became obsolete.
Albert Thurston. Also try going with the button-on version instead of clips: www.albertthurston.com/
while I absolutely agree the length of the trouser is up to the wearer, it should not be overlooked that certain levels of formality should also inform that decision. IMO, anything that is business wear or above should not show the socks while standing.
Thanks for sharing, I also agree with your point. But it's a tricky balance, to be sure you have a clean crisp trouser crease that is uninterrupted all the way down to the shoe as well as cover your socks. I think this is where the importance of tailoring the right length comes in.
You could be Vince too
I love wide lapels
trousers only feel good if they have between 1-3% elastane. Without elastane, sitting down would be impossible if the pants are already snug on the thighs when you are standing
I think you might have missed the point of how a trouser should fit. If they have some drape, aren't tight and have clean lines, there is no need or use for elastane. However, a little elastane will add to further relax the fit of the pants.
@@Justin_Kwan If you are one of those genetically lucky guys who don't store fat in the thighs or you just don't hit the quads at the gym, then maybe non-elastane pants might work for you. But for the majority of the population, elastane is a god-send. A relaxed fit pant/jeans from Zara/Marks&Spencer wouldn't need elastane. But if its a regular/slim/skinny fit chino/jean, then elastane is needed. That's why virtually all of the jeans/pants of Zara, M&S, Uniqlo and other retailers have atleast 1% elastane
Personally I find you looked better with the low rise pants when you did the side by side. In the low rise pants ypur legs still look long & even longer than your torso. I feel like the high rise pants blew it out of proportion & made your torso too short. This is just my personal preference of course, but seeing as it doesn't look like the low rise made your legs look shorter than your torso it seems more flattering to me
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate you taking the time to give your thoughts on the different proportions! Maybe it isn't a big of a contrast on me based on my height, but it's something that can make a big difference if one is shorter, and also if a guy is tall, he will not want an overly-high rise, which would make his legs look too long...it's all about striking a balance at the end of the day.
Looks good but what if i want to wear chelsea boots
pants can't be wide
on the contrary, I think Chelsea boots can not be worn with pants to slim. The pants need to drape naturally over the boots, but if they are too slim, they will always get caught on the top of the boot.
@@Justin_Kwan interesting
Apparently I’ve been wearing my pants wrong my whole life lmao
Those are mid-rise trousers though. High rise is above belly button.
i think it depends from person to person. At the end we want to get the 1/3 proportions right. Maybe he has a shorter torso so it’s necessary need to be high rise.
Hello Just, i want to copy your trouser look, may i ask your suggestion as to what width leg opening, knee, and thigh should be
Im 5, 6 height, 29 waist trouser, slim build 62kg
Thank you
Hi, for reference my beige trousers in the video are: Cuff 8 1/4in., knee 10in., thigh 14 1/2in. However, I wouldn't suggest you follow these measurements if you want to have a similar looking proportion fit. This is because we are different heights and weights and if you were to make something similar to mine, they will end up looking wider on you since I am larger. Based on your height and weight, try a trousers with a 7 1/2 in. cuff. I've graded sizes on my website, so our trousers and chinos will all have a similar proportion, you can also check our size chart for a reference (your size would be 78): www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/classic-chino-milktea
@@Justin_Kwan wow thank you for this comprehensive reply. Appreciate
Clip suspenders are cringe, only buttoned suspenders have elegance. From a sartorial theory standpoint, trousers function way better with suspenders.
Damn straight
I disagree on clip suspenders being cringe. The thing with most of the cringy clip suspenders is they’re usually too narrow and with cheap clips, however when done right, they can still achieve the elegant look of traditional suspenders. I’ve seen people like Chad Park from BNtailor pull off clip suspenders before.
Aside from the aesthetics, one could argue that pinching your trouser waist with clips all the time wouldn't do it any good.
Starts: 1:01
Says who?
I didnt need this video. I watch classic Hollwood.
@@TheBlues088 that’s a great resource for amazing classical clothing. Thanks for watching anyways!
Only Americans wear button down shirts with a tie. Not a good look
I'm a guilty American in this case. I'll agree to a degree, I can not stand ties with small, stingy looking button down collars! However, I like the proportions and look on mine :)
Askokey would not approve
I think the Proff, as he calls himself, would agree. However his stylistic preference is an even higher rise and a straighter, fuller leg width. I'm trying to stay within the boundaries of classical fits but also keeping it modern and relevant for the everyday man.
Dogmatic blowhard
Jesus ! What planet are you on if you need info on what trousers to buy!
I disagree about the rise, what make you look taller is long inseam or the crotch of the pants that is exactly at your crotch and not sagging far bellow your actual crotch, and wearing the pants until it breaks on the shoes rather than hanging on the ankle also make you look more seamless and taller, wearing the pants that is slightly bootcut is going to make you look taller because it creates illusion of highrise building/ tall tree perspective, while wearing pants that taper down into carrot shape is making your leg shorter because it makes your shape like caricature drawing, the waistline of the pants itself doesn't really matter because unlike women skirt, men pants clearly show where your leg starts no matter how high or low your rise is. high rise pants just look better worn under a waistcoat that is the only reason of high rise pants to me.
You bring up good points but I will reiterate the high rise making your legs look longer. You mention the inseam and crotch, if your pants sag, that means the waist is lower than it should be, thus dropping the crotch point in your pants, and it wont look good. If you pull your pants up, the crotch area wont be saggy and your rise is now higher. The important thing here is you have a trouser that has a higher rise in the first place. In terms of carrot shapes and boot cuts, I think that goes into a deeper topic which is stylistic and proportions--if you are top heavy, you definitely don't want to have too tapered of a trouser, it will look like a carrot and off balance.
As a style guru, you should have checked your outfit in the mirror before filiming. Your tie is pulling towards your right and looks unsightly.
How do you know that isn't sprezzatura?
@@Justin_Kwan agree
I grew so my pants are too short... Give me a break!
Check to see if there is some inlay, maybe they can be let out and lengthened a bit.
@@Justin_Kwan I was making a joke, cause if you outgrow your pants they lose the break.
Don’t trust a guy with a crooked tie😂
Sprezzatura!
No, do not like pleats..and i don't think it's back in style..