This guy is great. Just working on something is enough of a pain. Now try and film every step. Definitely has helped big time with my Comanche build. Thanks man!
Well, well, well. So there is a scanner for the Renix. I've been told a thousand times they don't exist, with a shoulder shrug when I asked "So what are these ports for?" So not only did I find out they exist, but a great guide on how to use it. My old girl has always run well, but I suspected something was a little bit off. Time to find out!! Thanks for the great instructional video!
Because of you Nick I went out a got an MT2500. We have 4 brands of vehicles, including 2 Renix XJ's. This scanner/reader makes getting things right on our vehicles so much easier !! Thanks for all of your efforts !!
Desert Mike DIY A actron CP9690 works on OBDI Ford, G.M. Chrysler and 2 Toyota. Also OBDII to 2013. It is updatable. It tests live, record, exhaust smog readiness test, code connect for troubleshooting. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter adapter. It remembers previous cars tested.
Snap-On also has manuals, emission cartridges, transmission cartridges, and adapters for different vehicles. Get the latest cartridges. Dial in the VIN number. If it won't communicate, try a different year but same engine. Warm up the engine to operating temp. to warm up the O2 sensors. Replace most important code parts first. Then retest. Sometimes replacing 1 part eliminates other codes! On E-Bay, check other adapters from other sellers for cheaper prices. Get the 120 volt wall outlet adapter. Also the battery Pak. Get the battery cable adaptor to hook up to the adaptor and battery. See if you can get a printer.
the fuel sync is the signal from the cam sensor in the distributor. the data feeds too slow but as long as it changes from a + to - its getting a signal.
there is a lot of confusion about the renix/ducillier system, it was only used on 2 vehicles in the usa market, the amc/renault alliance car with fuel injection and the amc-produced jeep vehicles with fuel injection. if your jeep was made by chrysler, it will have the chrysler engine control system. the snap-on mt2500 scanner is one of the few scan tools that will interface with the renix/ducillier system, the only other one i know of is the one they used at the amc dealers i can't remember who made it but it was just for the renix/duciller syem only. otc never offered software or cables for that system.
I first watched this prior to your intro of the REM. It appears as if this can write to the ecu. In a different vid with the new REM you've described another person that queries and writes to the ecu. I commented on that vid to discuss your design, perhaps it is possible to update the REM to do this too
RUclips can be awful with responses but I've got tons of contact methods on my website Nickintimedesign.com . Renix is read only from everything I've seen so far. OBD1 is an entirely different breed with modern communication protocols which I believe accept tunes or modifications but not entirely sure. Renix is a big ol mystery I've slowly been trying to crack.
It's pretty cool stuff. I've gone over the deep-end with this stuff though, got so entrenched with data I made my own arduino scan tool, haha. Super fast live updates on the dash at all times, can't drive without it now!
One thing is not right. When scrolling the menus, the info after Exhaust is blank. Neither lean or rich shows up. I've moved the data cable and jeep adapter around but that didn't change anything. Closed loop or open loop, same problem. The cps has melted wire insulation, but doesn't seem shorted or open. Any ideas ?
+mikep95133 hmm, that's weird. Well all the data that it displays comes over the same serial connection, so if you get some readings then you should get all of them. That's very weird. What cartridge do you have?
Om my 90 renix the scanner reads the ST fuel trim changes when cold then stabilizes at 128. LT is always at 128. The 02 sensor swings but not nearly as much as yours, never gets below 3.5. Exaust stays on lean never going rich. My MAP swings from 1.7 - 2.1 4 hole volvo injectors pulse is 5.7
On Renix Jeeps with snapon there are no traditional trouble codes as it's only live sensor data. With my custom REM Renix Engine Monitor scan tool I was able to find some injector and relay codes that the Jeep computer does provide. It's also fairly easy to catch sensor issues while driving since it's portable
Hey Nick, saw your new Renix scanner you designed and built yourself. Genius. So I know you can tell me why the PROM on my MT 2500 displays B1143FFEFDF7 most times. Or B1143FFFFFFF on occasion. Thanks for any input. p.s. Your alt. puts out 13.8 volts mostly? My stockers only at 13.1 if that.
Ok, this actual gives me a bit of relief now. Short Answer: the ECU's are dumb and spit out junk numbers sometimes which has been quite an annoyance when debugging my own scanner. Long Answer: Get ready for a full bowl of nerd. I'm not entirely sure what all the PROM numbers mean, but the first 3 should never change. Each byte is displayed in hexadecimal so they only use 2 digits instead of 3 for normal decimal. Byte 0 is the Program Version which I have only seen B0 (176) or B1 (177) Byte 1 is PROM Version which I have seen bunch, don't know correlation. 14 (20) is a more common one. Byte 2 is Calibration Code which also vary a bit. 3F (63) would be the final series for most 89-90 models Now here is where I have had to guess the rest of the way. Byte 11 seems to be a 2 part mid stream check. FC (252), FD (253), and FE (254) are usual. When things get wonky their values will be lost with FF (255) which is the highest number that a byte can represent. Byte 10 comes after 11, FC (252), FD (253), and FE (254) are usual. also suffers from FF issues Byte 30 seems to be the final check byte to verify stream length which is great except it can sometimes suffer from the dreaded FF (255) issue as well which is rather annoying. F2 (242), F3 (243), and F7 (247) are usual. So basically when you see all those FF's, your ECU is spitting out a bunch of extra numbers that the scanner is accounting for but I have even seen some normal data bytes being replaced at times when it get's really bad. No idea what causes it. FF (255) is represented in binary as all 0's, so the only way the computer know anything is there is becuase of the start bit that lets the receiver know that a byte is coming. A small amount of interference could cause a blip and be interpreted as a 255, but that doesn't seem to be the case here as the bit length (the time a number will be high or low for) is the exact same has a normal bit and it even leaves the proper space until the next byte so it's definitely the ECU doing it. Hope that gives you some insight. As for the Alternator voltage, a couple factors will affect that. Current amperage demand, strength of alternator, battery charge, and engine speed all play a part in charging voltage. At least 13V is acceptable. I also have an aftermarket alternator that can push 170 amps which is a bit higher then then max 105A stock.
So update, was talking with someone across the pond and he mentioned that if the number 255 needed to be transmitted, they would send it twice so that the reader didn't accidentally pick it up as the end of the stream. So now i can clean up the data properly since i know it's not just some random glitch.
Nick i’m glad I found this vid as i just purchased a mt2500 and i think it is good to have my question is could this be used as a diagnostic real-time monitor so i want to be able to drive and see what it’s doing with a passenger of course seeing what it’s doing i think it also has a feature that you can save data called (movie)
Yeah, you can use it while driving, it's just a little clunky to keep in the Jeep. If you want something portable you can look up my Renix Engine Monitor, it's small enough to keep permanently mounted and shows you all sorts of readings the MT2500 doesn't.
@@NickInTimeFilms thank you for all your helpful videos about these renix era motors that’s my fault I didn’t see the see more button on the description thanks again!
Ofcourse, I have videos on every single mod i've done since the beginning, whole playlist even. that is a WJ booster, works much better than the stock one ever did.
Hey quick question, open loop/closed loop is mainly determined by O2 sensor temp right? I know that coolant temp is also a factor but I'm guessing not primary. I have a 92 and i noticed yours switched over when coolant temp was at around 70F
Hey Nick, will the monitor you are making do the same thing as the MT2500? MY 1990 is stumbling slightly and the further I go the worse it gets after getting to opporating temp and sometimes it will shutdown.
Hi, for years I'm looking obd1 live data scantool for my 1995. 4.0 wrangler. Will I be able to reset adaptive memory, read live data, bleed brakes ? (i have ABS and i heard that it wont be able without scanner activating pump etc). I know this can be done with DRBIII but its very pricey for a home use :)
I think the key on, key off, headlight switch procedure will reset adaptive memory but this will read live data for your jeep if you have the right adapter. either CHRY-1 Adapter or CHRY-2 I think, and a proper jeep cartridge. I'm not 100% sure about the abs functionality but there is an ABS option so i'm sure it does something
Thanks a lot, I've read about that trick but wasn't sure. Is there bi-directional communication with ECU (like setting rpm, injector shut down) or it just reads data?
When I used it on my buddies 95 I remember there were system tests you could run for relays and components, but I don't think it has any ECU reprogramming in it.
1994 Dodge B-250 , 5.2 , this is a van I have completely gone through engine rebuild blue printed all new sensors OEM parts . All the sensors are working new ECM. Here is the issue. With the engine completely cold, turn the key to the on position the IAC opens way up (Setting itself up for a fast cold idle ) soon as you start the van the AIC closes to a slow idle position, and stays that way when the vehicle is fully warm, then runs great I just don’t have a cold fast idle. I believe something is happening during the cranking cycle what would cause this ? ( Engine was hooked up to a scan tool all sensors working New positive and negative battery cables all ground points cleaned off new 880 cold cranking amp Northstar battery , this is my personal vehicle it is my back up handicap van I’ve had it since brand new so it’s worth making everything work perfect , no wires have ever been cut ,11.35 cranking volts at the battery. DTCs are : 12 , 32 , 32 ( The blinking check engine light gave me a code 32 twice ) ( Engine almost acts like from key on position to actually starting engine going straight to “ Close loop mode “ ).
an out-of-range coolant temp sensor, the ecm senses the resistance and as soon as it begins to change it reduces the fast idle but if your sensor is bad the ecm might be thinking that your engine is already warm enough. too much sealant or overtightening the sensor can damage it and give false readings. at any rate you need a scan tool to monitor the sensor data but the b-250 uses the standard chrysler system, not the renix/ducillier system.
Gotcha. And if something is wrong, will it throw a code? Because I see it says "no codes available in this mode." So does the code come from the troubleshooter?
That's the only thing with the Renix ECU's, they don't store any trouble codes so you have to figure it out on your own. The Troubleshooter does just that, it gives you tips to troubleshoot. But after building my own scanner I can tell you what just about everything means in great detail.
Try to find emission cartridges which give helpful tips. Get the latest cartridges in case you come across a later car. Get the manuals! Get the battery adapter which plugs into the positive cable to the adaptor. It powers the adaptor.
The MTG is the graphing version with fancy screen. Man the deals are crazy on ebay, nearly bought a huge set for $300 just browsing haha. From the looks of it, the MTG uses the same cartridges and adapters as the MT
@@NickInTimeFilms I picked up one with the cartridges for jeep and few others and adapters. Also all the manuals and hard case for $179. I think i did good.
All in the description, it's a Snap-On MT2500. I sell my own scan tool for Renix now which has more info then this does. Check out the Renix Engine Monitor (REM)!
91 - 95 is OBD1, but the MT2500 can read that as well. You'll need: - any Jeep Primary Cartridge before 2000 (list in description) - a CHRY-1 Adapter for the ECU and alligator clip or cigarette lighter barrel connector for positive power - a CHRY-2 Adapter for ABS and TCU
+NickInTimeFilms lol awesome, if you ever find yourself out towards my neck of the woods (maple shade- cherry hill/Moorestown area) give a shout..I'll probably be able to toss you gas money. I'm curious as to what my jeep'll read lol
That reading is only on my REM ;) . IAC Turns is an experimental gauge to show the general direction the ECU is commanding the IAC. It's not perfectly accurate, but it's close enough to give you an idea of the system.
And i bet from new it made the original buyers wallet scream a lot lol :-D An extention cable into the truck would make it nicer, you dont want to be balancing on the hood while your mate is driving down the road while you log live data ha ha :-D I bet out there, somewhere, there is a converter matchbox that converts that port to the obd2 system with bluetooth, and your andriod phone will show all the settings :-)
+zx8401ztv The data cable is long enough to route through a crack in the hood and through the passenger window, no need for the wing man. haha. As for a converter, it's hard enough to just find anything at all that will directly communicate with this oddball system. Some people have made basic converters to communicate with a laptop, but most of those scripts are unfinished. If I could code then A little portable system monitor would be awesome.
+NickInTimeFilms Pity there wasnt an obd2 ecu made that will replace it, dam!! I still have the image of you balancing on the wing or fender, that would make a rollercoster a boring trip lol. Ahh nice long cable :-) Im sorry if i missed it but does the tool save the live data from your renix to its own memory?
yeah im aware but i get excited about this stuff im 31 and have been working on cars since the age of 4 with my old man since he ownes a shop. i remember the day the snap on truck rolled up and showed us this piece. i still have it till this day. yours in way better condition tho.
+Yuck Fou Yeah, it's always neat to see old tech still being usefully centuries down the line. Sometimes it pays to keep all this old junk lying around. haha
LMAO sure does. you proved that point very well i have an old XJ myself but its a 96 but i do have friend who might need the info you posted ill point them your way with my tool . cheers dude
Well don't like the idea of these guys who just talk a lot about f****** stuff we don't want to know instead of just getting straight down to the problem we don't care who does what or what when or where what year we just want to know the problem and how to fix it cuz these guys are not comedians and when we get on the site to look for a problems on our vehicles all we get is a bunch of guys yacking a lot about stuff we didn't ask. By the way these guys are not comedians they need to stay with the daytime job. A lot more explaining about the issue and little bit less yakking about nothing thank you
This guy is great. Just working on something is enough of a pain. Now try and film every step. Definitely has helped big time with my Comanche build. Thanks man!
Thanks for this. I could not for the life of me find someone give a clear demonstration on the use of this tool.
Well, well, well. So there is a scanner for the Renix. I've been told a thousand times they don't exist, with a shoulder shrug when I asked "So what are these ports for?" So not only did I find out they exist, but a great guide on how to use it. My old girl has always run well, but I suspected something was a little bit off. Time to find out!! Thanks for the great instructional video!
This is just what I needed - proper, clear information well presented ..... unlike too many "YootTubers" out there. Thank you Nick
Because of you Nick I went out a got an MT2500. We have 4 brands of vehicles, including 2 Renix XJ's. This scanner/reader makes getting things right on our vehicles so much easier !! Thanks for all of your efforts !!
Desert Mike DIY A actron CP9690 works on OBDI Ford, G.M. Chrysler and 2 Toyota. Also OBDII to 2013. It is updatable. It tests live, record, exhaust smog readiness test, code connect for troubleshooting. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter adapter. It remembers previous cars tested.
¿Dónde lo compraste?
@@miniemouse2750 Ebay, Facebook, internet.
Snap-On also has manuals, emission cartridges, transmission cartridges, and adapters for different vehicles. Get the latest cartridges. Dial in the VIN number. If it won't communicate, try a different year but same engine. Warm up the engine to operating temp. to warm up the O2 sensors. Replace most important code parts first. Then retest. Sometimes replacing 1 part eliminates other codes! On E-Bay, check other adapters from other sellers for cheaper prices. Get the 120 volt wall outlet adapter. Also the battery Pak. Get the battery cable adaptor to hook up to the adaptor and battery. See if you can get a printer.
the fuel sync is the signal from the cam sensor in the distributor. the data feeds too slow but as long as it changes from a + to - its getting a signal.
there is a lot of confusion about the renix/ducillier system, it was only used on 2 vehicles in the usa market, the amc/renault alliance car with fuel injection and the amc-produced jeep vehicles with fuel injection. if your jeep was made by chrysler, it will have the chrysler engine control system. the snap-on mt2500 scanner is one of the few scan tools that will interface with the renix/ducillier system, the only other one i know of is the one they used at the amc dealers i can't remember who made it but it was just for the renix/duciller syem only. otc never offered software or cables for that system.
I first watched this prior to your intro of the REM. It appears as if this can write to the ecu. In a different vid with the new REM you've described another person that queries and writes to the ecu. I commented on that vid to discuss your design, perhaps it is possible to update the REM to do this too
RUclips can be awful with responses but I've got tons of contact methods on my website Nickintimedesign.com . Renix is read only from everything I've seen so far. OBD1 is an entirely different breed with modern communication protocols which I believe accept tunes or modifications but not entirely sure. Renix is a big ol mystery I've slowly been trying to crack.
Really enjoy all your videos. I just recently found your channel and have been binge watching them daily. Keep up the good work!
+Corey Wagner Glad you enjoy
I CANT FIND THAT ON MY '95 JEEP GC! I sure wish I could! ...Drives me nuts trying to figure out whats wrong with it when it wont start!
Thank you so much for doing this........you are the best
Just bought an MT 2500 tonight. Looking forward to looking at the data in our '88 XJ !
It's pretty cool stuff. I've gone over the deep-end with this stuff though, got so entrenched with data I made my own arduino scan tool, haha. Super fast live updates on the dash at all times, can't drive without it now!
One thing is not right. When scrolling the menus, the info after Exhaust is blank. Neither lean or rich shows up. I've moved the data cable and jeep adapter around but that didn't change anything. Closed loop or open loop, same problem. The cps has melted wire insulation, but doesn't seem shorted or open. Any ideas ?
+mikep95133 hmm, that's weird. Well all the data that it displays comes over the same serial connection, so if you get some readings then you should get all of them. That's very weird. What cartridge do you have?
I think it came with a 1098 or 1097.
I just tried a black programmable cartridge and it worked right. So maybe the 1098 cartridge is bad.
Hello,
I own a RENAULT GTA CONVERTIBLE year 1987.
Does it work for AMC and RENAULT?
Got to check to see if my 93 xj has a place to plug in, don't recognize what yours has.
So how does it read transmission problems??? I didnt see you do it,but does it read the codes?
Om my 90 renix the scanner reads the ST fuel trim changes when cold then stabilizes at 128. LT is always at 128.
The 02 sensor swings but not nearly as much as yours, never gets below 3.5.
Exaust stays on lean never going rich.
My MAP swings from 1.7 - 2.1
4 hole volvo injectors pulse is 5.7
This doesn't really help with seeing an output for the coil to fire?
Can you pull codes for the engine if you had a bad crank sensor for example?
On Renix Jeeps with snapon there are no traditional trouble codes as it's only live sensor data.
With my custom REM Renix Engine Monitor scan tool I was able to find some injector and relay codes that the Jeep computer does provide. It's also fairly easy to catch sensor issues while driving since it's portable
@@NickInTimeFilms what's the link to purchase the renix device. I've watched your other videos and it seems like a nifty gadget :D
@@dalldall1621 nickintimedesign.com/product/renix-engine-monitor-ii/
Hey Nick, saw your new Renix scanner you designed and built yourself. Genius. So I know you can tell me why the PROM on my MT 2500 displays B1143FFEFDF7 most times. Or B1143FFFFFFF on occasion.
Thanks for any input. p.s. Your alt. puts out 13.8 volts mostly? My stockers only at 13.1 if that.
Ok, this actual gives me a bit of relief now. Short Answer: the ECU's are dumb and spit out junk numbers sometimes which has been quite an annoyance when debugging my own scanner.
Long Answer: Get ready for a full bowl of nerd. I'm not entirely sure what all the PROM numbers mean, but the first 3 should never change. Each byte is displayed in hexadecimal so they only use 2 digits instead of 3 for normal decimal.
Byte 0 is the Program Version which I have only seen B0 (176) or B1 (177)
Byte 1 is PROM Version which I have seen bunch, don't know correlation. 14 (20) is a more common one.
Byte 2 is Calibration Code which also vary a bit. 3F (63) would be the final series for most 89-90 models
Now here is where I have had to guess the rest of the way.
Byte 11 seems to be a 2 part mid stream check. FC (252), FD (253), and FE (254) are usual. When things get wonky their values will be lost with FF (255) which is the highest number that a byte can represent.
Byte 10 comes after 11, FC (252), FD (253), and FE (254) are usual. also suffers from FF issues
Byte 30 seems to be the final check byte to verify stream length which is great except it can sometimes suffer from the dreaded FF (255) issue as well which is rather annoying. F2 (242), F3 (243), and F7 (247) are usual.
So basically when you see all those FF's, your ECU is spitting out a bunch of extra numbers that the scanner is accounting for but I have even seen some normal data bytes being replaced at times when it get's really bad. No idea what causes it. FF (255) is represented in binary as all 0's, so the only way the computer know anything is there is becuase of the start bit that lets the receiver know that a byte is coming. A small amount of interference could cause a blip and be interpreted as a 255, but that doesn't seem to be the case here as the bit length (the time a number will be high or low for) is the exact same has a normal bit and it even leaves the proper space until the next byte so it's definitely the ECU doing it. Hope that gives you some insight.
As for the Alternator voltage, a couple factors will affect that. Current amperage demand, strength of alternator, battery charge, and engine speed all play a part in charging voltage. At least 13V is acceptable. I also have an aftermarket alternator that can push 170 amps which is a bit higher then then max 105A stock.
So update, was talking with someone across the pond and he mentioned that if the number 255 needed to be transmitted, they would send it twice so that the reader didn't accidentally pick it up as the end of the stream. So now i can clean up the data properly since i know it's not just some random glitch.
Hi Nick, ¿Dónde puedo comprar uno de estos scanner, necesito para mi jeep cherokee 87 4.0
Nick i’m glad I found this vid as i just purchased a mt2500 and i think it is good to have my question is could this be used as a diagnostic real-time monitor so i want to be able to drive and see what it’s doing with a passenger of course seeing what it’s doing i think it also has a feature that you can save data called (movie)
Yeah, you can use it while driving, it's just a little clunky to keep in the Jeep. If you want something portable you can look up my Renix Engine Monitor, it's small enough to keep permanently mounted and shows you all sorts of readings the MT2500 doesn't.
Perfect, thanks.
Oh man I need to get one of these!
What cartridges will I need for the mt2500 for my renix 4.0 Cherokee?
Check the video description, everything is listed there
@@NickInTimeFilms thank you for all your helpful videos about these renix era motors that’s my fault I didn’t see the see more button on the description thanks again!
Nick, I noticed you upgraded your brake booster and reservoir. Do you have a write up or video on that? parts list? etc.
Ofcourse, I have videos on every single mod i've done since the beginning, whole playlist even. that is a WJ booster, works much better than the stock one ever did.
Hey quick question, open loop/closed loop is mainly determined by O2 sensor temp right? I know that coolant temp is also a factor but I'm guessing not primary. I have a 92 and i noticed yours switched over when coolant temp was at around 70F
For Renix it doesn't care about temperature, just starts attempting closed loop after 30 seconds and the sensor is hot.
Is that solely renix or does that apply up to 96 years?
I don't know for sure for other years. That's just what I have seen while working on renix.
Hey Nick, will the monitor you are making do the same thing as the MT2500?
MY 1990 is stumbling slightly and the further I go the worse it gets after getting to opporating temp and sometimes it will shutdown.
Yep, my Renix Engine Monitors can read every gauge the MT2500 can, and even more custom ones that I wrote.
Hi, for years I'm looking obd1 live data scantool for my 1995. 4.0 wrangler. Will I be able to reset adaptive memory, read live data, bleed brakes ? (i have ABS and i heard that it wont be able without scanner activating pump etc). I know this can be done with DRBIII but its very pricey for a home use :)
I think the key on, key off, headlight switch procedure will reset adaptive memory but this will read live data for your jeep if you have the right adapter. either CHRY-1 Adapter or CHRY-2 I think, and a proper jeep cartridge. I'm not 100% sure about the abs functionality but there is an ABS option so i'm sure it does something
Thanks a lot, I've read about that trick but wasn't sure. Is there bi-directional communication with ECU (like setting rpm, injector shut down) or it just reads data?
When I used it on my buddies 95 I remember there were system tests you could run for relays and components, but I don't think it has any ECU reprogramming in it.
That is what I was looking for. Thanks a lot.
1994 Dodge B-250 , 5.2 , this is a van I have completely gone through engine rebuild blue printed all new sensors OEM parts . All the sensors are working new ECM. Here is the issue. With the engine completely cold, turn the key to the on position the IAC opens way up (Setting itself up for a fast cold idle ) soon as you start the van the AIC closes to a slow idle position, and stays that way when the vehicle is fully warm, then runs great I just don’t have a cold fast idle. I believe something is happening during the cranking cycle what would cause this ? ( Engine was hooked up to a scan tool all sensors working New positive and negative battery cables all ground points cleaned off new 880 cold cranking amp Northstar battery , this is my personal vehicle it is my back up handicap van I’ve had it since brand new so it’s worth making everything work perfect , no wires have ever been cut ,11.35 cranking volts at the battery. DTCs are : 12 , 32 , 32 ( The blinking check engine light gave me a code 32 twice ) ( Engine almost acts like from key on position to actually starting engine going straight to “ Close loop mode “ ).
an out-of-range coolant temp sensor, the ecm senses the resistance and as soon as it begins to change it reduces the fast idle but if your sensor is bad the ecm might be thinking that your engine is already warm enough. too much sealant or overtightening the sensor can damage it and give false readings. at any rate you need a scan tool to monitor the sensor data but the b-250 uses the standard chrysler system, not the renix/ducillier system.
I found a cartidge online but it just says GM-Chrysler-Ford, however it is 2500-1094. Would it work? Or should I find one that says jeep?
Yeah, that'll work. Check the description for all available numbers
Gotcha. And if something is wrong, will it throw a code? Because I see it says "no codes available in this mode." So does the code come from the troubleshooter?
That's the only thing with the Renix ECU's, they don't store any trouble codes so you have to figure it out on your own. The Troubleshooter does just that, it gives you tips to troubleshoot. But after building my own scanner I can tell you what just about everything means in great detail.
Gotcha. Well, I will continue my search for a good deal. Don't want to spend too much.
Try to find emission cartridges which give helpful tips. Get the latest cartridges in case you come across a later car. Get the manuals! Get the battery adapter which plugs into the positive cable to the adaptor. It powers the adaptor.
Are you able to see any info about your CPS through the scanner?
The RPM is based off the CPS is indirectly yes
Is there a difference between the MT2500 and can the mtg2500 can the mtg used the same way with cartridges and adapters?
The MTG is the graphing version with fancy screen. Man the deals are crazy on ebay, nearly bought a huge set for $300 just browsing haha. From the looks of it, the MTG uses the same cartridges and adapters as the MT
@@NickInTimeFilms I picked up one with the cartridges for jeep and few others and adapters. Also all the manuals and hard case for $179. I think i did good.
Nice work, you'll have to let me know how the graphing stuff looks
@@NickInTimeFilms Ill play around with it and see how it works then take some pics right now trying to get my 90 renix running smoothly.
Call the jeep a car one more fuckin time I swear 😂
How much did this run 4 u sir ?
What’s the name of it.
All in the description, it's a Snap-On MT2500. I sell my own scan tool for Renix now which has more info then this does. Check out the Renix Engine Monitor (REM)!
Which adapter are you using
All the part numbers are in the description
what about 91, im getting mixed answers. it is not renix, correct?
91 - 95 is OBD1, but the MT2500 can read that as well. You'll need:
- any Jeep Primary Cartridge before 2000 (list in description)
- a CHRY-1 Adapter for the ECU and alligator clip or cigarette lighter barrel connector for positive power
- a CHRY-2 Adapter for ABS and TCU
NickInTimeFilms I appreciate you
How do you do ABS?
After you select the vehicle it will give the option for which sub system to read. ABS was on 89 and 90 models.
you still have this thing?
Of course, too useful too toss
+NickInTimeFilms lol awesome, if you ever find yourself out towards my neck of the woods (maple shade- cherry hill/Moorestown area) give a shout..I'll probably be able to toss you gas money. I'm curious as to what my jeep'll read lol
didnt see IAC counts?
That reading is only on my REM ;) . IAC Turns is an experimental gauge to show the general direction the ECU is commanding the IAC. It's not perfectly accurate, but it's close enough to give you an idea of the system.
its got multiplayer?
+MusicSoundPlayer Where at? lol
And i bet from new it made the original buyers wallet scream a lot lol :-D
An extention cable into the truck would make it nicer, you dont want to be balancing on the hood while your mate is driving down the road while you log live data ha ha :-D
I bet out there, somewhere, there is a converter matchbox that converts that port to the obd2 system with bluetooth, and your andriod phone will show all the settings :-)
+zx8401ztv The data cable is long enough to route through a crack in the hood and through the passenger window, no need for the wing man. haha. As for a converter, it's hard enough to just find anything at all that will directly communicate with this oddball system. Some people have made basic converters to communicate with a laptop, but most of those scripts are unfinished. If I could code then A little portable system monitor would be awesome.
+NickInTimeFilms
Pity there wasnt an obd2 ecu made that will replace it, dam!!
I still have the image of you balancing on the wing or fender, that would make a rollercoster a boring trip lol.
Ahh nice long cable :-)
Im sorry if i missed it but does the tool save the live data from your renix to its own memory?
+zx8401ztv I don't believe so but I could be mistaken.
your TPS vltage is a bit high, should be .45v
How do you figure? Renix MPFI Manual says to set at 17% or 0.85v if reference is perfect 5v.
shits so funny i have the same one since the day it came out..LOL obd1 son!
+Yuck Fou The Renix system is even earlier than OBDI. haha
yeah im aware but i get excited about this stuff im 31 and have been working on cars since the age of 4 with my old man since he ownes a shop. i remember the day the snap on truck rolled up and showed us this piece. i still have it till this day. yours in way better condition tho.
+Yuck Fou Yeah, it's always neat to see old tech still being usefully centuries down the line. Sometimes it pays to keep all this old junk lying around. haha
LMAO sure does. you proved that point very well i have an old XJ myself but its a 96 but i do have friend who might need the info you posted ill point them your way with my tool . cheers dude
I seen one on offer up for 250
Its been over a year I asked u a simple Q, no reply ?
RUclips comment notifications are terribly unreliable so don't take it personally. I got this kit for a little over $200 on Ebay.
@@NickInTimeFilms Appreciate SIR
Well don't like the idea of these guys who just talk a lot about f****** stuff we don't want to know instead of just getting straight down to the problem we don't care who does what or what when or where what year we just want to know the problem and how to fix it cuz these guys are not comedians and when we get on the site to look for a problems on our vehicles all we get is a bunch of guys yacking a lot about stuff we didn't ask. By the way these guys are not comedians they need to stay with the daytime job. A lot more explaining about the issue and little bit less yakking about nothing thank you