@@JarrodWillemse Hey, that's awesome! I want to rebuild my ca18 at home for stock power, seems that I only need: - acl bearings - new oil pump - arp studs - standalone ecu - head drain mod 😁😁
@@JarrodWillemse i got the stock t25 rebuilt with a bigger MFS compressor wheel and seems pretty nice. Still didn't got the car tuned, but seems pretty responsive!
Dude, awesome video! I currently own an S13 with a CA and this video is definitely helpful in deciding what steps I'm going to make in refreshing/building it.
Great video, but I'd like to add one more thing, the ACL bearings had a period where they were cutting costs in their production which resulted in bad bearing quality. Can't remember the year but the newer year ones like 2019 or so should be ok to use. What I have researched is that the Japanese like to use King Race Bearings and NDC bearings (I'm using King Racing)
I like the bit about re-shimming hydraulic lifters... hmmm. Think it's worth mentioning the block runs oil squirters, along with the std rods having oil squirts onto the thrust face of the cylinders - factory win.
They reduce pressure to bearings it's why a lot of people delete them , they also don't clear a lot of aftermarket forged pistons. I've deleted them myself in most CA's I've built.
Hello Bro, just as an update on my project, I recently chipped my stock ecu, I was able to do it with moeates ostrich 2.0 and tuner pro software, Im tuning it at the moment but if you want I can share with you the requirements and the bin and xdf to read the car with the Tuner pro, just in case you want to try what option. And also with the emulator you can tune it live, and with the burner you can have many maps as you want, also the software is free
Hey mate that sounds interesting. A good alternative to nistune. I think the days of using a chipped stock ecu are over for me in terms of 30yo cars. I haven’t had the best experience with reliability. I would prefer to buy an aftermarket ecu.
great video! I got a 400bhp CA myself and my main issue you didn't want to explain more. Its the gearbox.. I destroyed my first gearbox on my first trackday and replaced it with a stock one.. the only upgrade I did is to route the differential cooler and pump to the gearbox instead. so the gearbox oil gets cooled down and it holds since for 2 trackdays.. but still, it feels like this isn't right. I would love to upgrade the gearbox
Gearboxes are like russian roulette some are great and some barely last 1 clutch kick. Like i said keep the torque below 550nm and hp bellow 300hp for reliability.
Cylinder Head - these are the same as CA18DE (ignoring exhaust valves and cams), 4-port is best and the final development of the CA18DET, it's development was very similar to the Toyota 4A-GE from 1985-onwards (starting with 12 ports in the CA18DET-R). "Porting" should be in the form of gasflowing, largely just tidying up the finish but some minor reshaping can be performed, generally not a DIY job without vast amounts of knowledge/experience, certainly don't enlarge the ports unless going for well in excess of 550bhp. Main aim should be to improve the exhaust flow and improve (even up) the flow ratio compared to the inlet side, getting all of the hot inert gases out and spinning the turbo is where the major performance improvements are. Good VE improvements can be seen across the entire torque graph, especially at the lower end, improving spool. Fitting a too much thicker head gasket can turn your quench areas into detonation areas. Cams - A little more lift and/or duration can improve things. Standard cams are OK to 350bhp (~440Nm) on a standard head, probably around 380-400bhp (~500Nm) with cylinder head gasflowing which will yield far better gains before changing cams. Should be no reason to shim the hyrdraulic lifters, they are self-adjusting. Higher lift cams beyond 8.5mm will require machining of the head to relieve the flat areas to the side of each lifter so the cam lobes clear. Inlet manifold plenum - pretty good up to 500bhp but could be better. Runners would benefit from being a little longer and a little less big to improve cylinder filling at lower rpms and turbo spool. Throttle Body - a good gasflowing job will greatly raise the point at which it becomes a restriction, potentially to 450bhp. Exhaust manifold - standard one is good to 350bhp or more, will probably spool the turbo faster and benefit low-down torque. Turbo - pretty sure the compressor is not ceramic, it does spool really fast but quickly runs out of flow capacity required for 250bhp+. FPR - regulates pressure not flow, nothing wrong with it until you fit a massive fuel pump that requires bigger lines that it cannot keep up with. Going to higher RPM is expensive, not advised unless you need a to extend the torque-band with a massive turbo that spools really late in the rev range.
Thanks for the extra info. Sounds like we are pretty much on the same page. I’d really like to play around with the 4 port head but there isn’t any here in aus unfortunately.
Thank you a lot for this video and also i need to watch second part, its nice to finally see some love for babyRBs and its not someone saying "buy SR" :D im upgrading my ca to 300hp for a nice weekend car and thinking if its worth to build my second CA with head and block mods for drifting or buy and unknown condition RB :D even tho didnt hear you mention the famous head to oil pan mod to prevent starvation due to trapped oil in head, since its usually common issue with Ca and RB series even tho i believe RBs handled it better
That's pretty low kms for such an old car. Just make sure you service it well when you get it and use some 10-50w oil. That will help protect the bearings better. You could send a oil analysis away to check if there is excessive wear.
Hello, first, thanks for all the information for the CA, and second, I would like to know if the afermarket downpipe for the SR20 is the same for the CA or i have to order rhe sopecific one for the CA? Thanks in andvance
You will need a Ca specific downpipe as the Ca engine sits on an angle and the Sr is straight. I would recommend just modifying a sr one as that will be easier and cheaper to find. The Sr can work if you hammer the pipe around 1/2" on the side where it contacts the frame rail.
I think it could be possible. Might be same story as the sr where you just have to change the bell housing. I can’t say for sure as we don’t have ka transmissions in Australia.
1 year later, i'm here to rewatch!
Love the CA18DET 🔥🔥
Hey mate been watching you videos too. Keep up the good work!
@@JarrodWillemse Hey, that's awesome!
I want to rebuild my ca18 at home for stock power, seems that I only need:
- acl bearings
- new oil pump
- arp studs
- standalone ecu
- head drain mod
😁😁
@@BossGarage If you can find get a t28bb turbo it will suit the engine!
@@JarrodWillemse i got the stock t25 rebuilt with a bigger MFS compressor wheel and seems pretty nice.
Still didn't got the car tuned, but seems pretty responsive!
@@BossGarage Nice should be a good little ripper whens its back together!
I will definitely come back to this when it comes to working on my s13
Cheers mate good luck with the build!
Good to see ca18det content.
Gods engine
Don't even own a CA but was still very interesting to watch, lots of knowledge here!
Cheers thanks for the feedback!
This info has been super helpful. I’ll hold onto my CA a lil longer now. Thanks.
No need to throw it away, Good little engines.
Dude, awesome video! I currently own an S13 with a CA and this video is definitely helpful in deciding what steps I'm going to make in refreshing/building it.
No worries thanks for watching good luck!
Love this video thank you 🙏
Glad you liked it!
Great video, but I'd like to add one more thing, the ACL bearings had a period where they were cutting costs in their production which resulted in bad bearing quality. Can't remember the year but the newer year ones like 2019 or so should be ok to use. What I have researched is that the Japanese like to use King Race Bearings and NDC bearings (I'm using King Racing)
I didn’t know that thanks!
Awesome video Jarrod, appreciate the detailed information 💪💪
Thanks Brother!
This is international treasure
Haha call me Nicholas cage. Thanks for the compliment.
Really appreciate the info mate.. great video
Cheers mate happy to help!
I like the bit about re-shimming hydraulic lifters... hmmm. Think it's worth mentioning the block runs oil squirters, along with the std rods having oil squirts onto the thrust face of the cylinders - factory win.
Yeh I had the engine shop tell me to block them off but I think they are there for a reason keep everything cool! Thanks for watching.
They reduce pressure to bearings it's why a lot of people delete them , they also don't clear a lot of aftermarket forged pistons.
I've deleted them myself in most CA's I've built.
Hello Bro, just as an update on my project, I recently chipped my stock ecu, I was able to do it with moeates ostrich 2.0 and tuner pro software, Im tuning it at the moment but if you want I can share with you the requirements and the bin and xdf to read the car with the Tuner pro, just in case you want to try what option. And also with the emulator you can tune it live, and with the burner you can have many maps as you want, also the software is free
Hey mate that sounds interesting. A good alternative to nistune. I think the days of using a chipped stock ecu are over for me in terms of 30yo cars. I haven’t had the best experience with reliability. I would prefer to buy an aftermarket ecu.
Great video, I’m about to start a build and looking forward to the next video in this series.
Cheers mate!
Great vid. Watched a few of your other vids months ago realy liking the info its deffs helping me assemble my gazelles ca20det.
That's what I like to hear! Good Luck!
Big thank for this video ;)
No problem!
great video! I got a 400bhp CA myself and my main issue you didn't want to explain more. Its the gearbox.. I destroyed my first gearbox on my first trackday and replaced it with a stock one.. the only upgrade I did is to route the differential cooler and pump to the gearbox instead.
so the gearbox oil gets cooled down and it holds since for 2 trackdays.. but still, it feels like this isn't right. I would love to upgrade the gearbox
Gearboxes are like russian roulette some are great and some barely last 1 clutch kick. Like i said keep the torque below 550nm and hp bellow 300hp for reliability.
Cylinder Head - these are the same as CA18DE (ignoring exhaust valves and cams), 4-port is best and the final development of the CA18DET, it's development was very similar to the Toyota 4A-GE from 1985-onwards (starting with 12 ports in the CA18DET-R). "Porting" should be in the form of gasflowing, largely just tidying up the finish but some minor reshaping can be performed, generally not a DIY job without vast amounts of knowledge/experience, certainly don't enlarge the ports unless going for well in excess of 550bhp. Main aim should be to improve the exhaust flow and improve (even up) the flow ratio compared to the inlet side, getting all of the hot inert gases out and spinning the turbo is where the major performance improvements are. Good VE improvements can be seen across the entire torque graph, especially at the lower end, improving spool. Fitting a too much thicker head gasket can turn your quench areas into detonation areas.
Cams - A little more lift and/or duration can improve things. Standard cams are OK to 350bhp (~440Nm) on a standard head, probably around 380-400bhp (~500Nm) with cylinder head gasflowing which will yield far better gains before changing cams. Should be no reason to shim the hyrdraulic lifters, they are self-adjusting. Higher lift cams beyond 8.5mm will require machining of the head to relieve the flat areas to the side of each lifter so the cam lobes clear.
Inlet manifold plenum - pretty good up to 500bhp but could be better. Runners would benefit from being a little longer and a little less big to improve cylinder filling at lower rpms and turbo spool.
Throttle Body - a good gasflowing job will greatly raise the point at which it becomes a restriction, potentially to 450bhp.
Exhaust manifold - standard one is good to 350bhp or more, will probably spool the turbo faster and benefit low-down torque.
Turbo - pretty sure the compressor is not ceramic, it does spool really fast but quickly runs out of flow capacity required for 250bhp+.
FPR - regulates pressure not flow, nothing wrong with it until you fit a massive fuel pump that requires bigger lines that it cannot keep up with.
Going to higher RPM is expensive, not advised unless you need a to extend the torque-band with a massive turbo that spools really late in the rev range.
Thanks for the extra info. Sounds like we are pretty much on the same page. I’d really like to play around with the 4 port head but there isn’t any here in aus unfortunately.
great thanks!
No Worries!
Thank you a lot for this video and also i need to watch second part, its nice to finally see some love for babyRBs and its not someone saying "buy SR" :D im upgrading my ca to 300hp for a nice weekend car and thinking if its worth to build my second CA with head and block mods for drifting or buy and unknown condition RB :D even tho didnt hear you mention the famous head to oil pan mod to prevent starvation due to trapped oil in head, since its usually common issue with Ca and RB series even tho i believe RBs handled it better
Hi Thanks for watching! I have a video just dedicated to heads drains. Check it out if you have some time! ruclips.net/video/-X6w7E79X8k/видео.html
Sup so im lookin to buy a 200sx whit 105000 km is it almost certatly that the bearings will need to be replacs soon ?
That's pretty low kms for such an old car. Just make sure you service it well when you get it and use some 10-50w oil. That will help protect the bearings better. You could send a oil analysis away to check if there is excessive wear.
@@JarrodWillemse thanks man love ur vids keep the good work
@@joaoguedes3790 Thanks Bro!
I have ca18det/5speed in a datsun 1200 ute.
I want to build a high reving big HP engine.
Is a stroker the way to go?
Or leave the stroke standard?
Hi maté hopefully this video helps. The Ultimate CA18DET Engine Build Guide | What Parts To Use??
ruclips.net/video/DQjwJ1LqAWQ/видео.html
All great, but what if I actually wanted to change gearbox, any thing bolt on?
Not that i know of only 5 speed boxes from a Sr with the bellhousing changed. You could upgrade the gears in the standard box.
Hello, first, thanks for all the information for the CA, and second, I would like to know if the afermarket downpipe for the SR20 is the same for the CA or i have to order rhe sopecific one for the CA? Thanks in andvance
You will need a Ca specific downpipe as the Ca engine sits on an angle and the Sr is straight. I would recommend just modifying a sr one as that will be easier and cheaper to find. The Sr can work if you hammer the pipe around 1/2" on the side where it contacts the frame rail.
@@JarrodWillemse thank you so much bro appreciated 👍😁
Can are use k24 transmission to.
I think it could be possible. Might be same story as the sr where you just have to change the bell housing. I can’t say for sure as we don’t have ka transmissions in Australia.
It isnt the sr ando the ca transmisión the same internals?
Some people say the 5 speed sr is slightly better as it’s newer.
@@JarrodWillemseSR gearbox has at least stronger input shaft bearings and stronger gear shifting forks.