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Hey mate my guess is you have a vacuum leak. You can spray brake cleaner on the manifold when running to find the leak. It can also leak from the injector seals when they sit on the manifold. Just double check you IACV is plugged in and the idle screw on the throttle body is screwed all the way in. Can you hear a hissing noise?

Thanks! 🙏

I had a wheel bearing go on the skyline and it made a noise the faster you drive. This is just at a particular harmonics.

Do you have spark and fuel?

Probably not you won’t be able to fit the oil pickup tube.

Spoon Sports style*

I have another video on installing the aem fuel pressure regulator. From memory 42.5psi is the stock pressure.

Merry Christmas!

Yeh same thing happened to me that why i thought to make the video lol

Misfire started at light throttle cruising but was fine full throttle. Over time it slowly got worse and worse then just did it all the time. It was like something was slowly dying. I fixed some wires going into the ecu and it idles fine now but that makes me think it nigh be a wire that’s broken.

@@JarrodWillemse interesting stuff .

@@dguanz I'm going to do a video changing the harness soon. Lets see if it fixes it. Otherwise i think i might go to a link.

@@JarrodWillemse I was thinking the same lol

@ I’m running Dinosaur s300 v1 . It came with the car

the cams are degreed with some overlap.

Does your car have the pulley? I think the later HR engine didn't have this as they were all E fan.

@ the diagram says it’s supposed to have one but it doesn’t

@@us2vlogs532 you can try the lightweight pully though.

It not to make the shifter stiffer. It makes the driveline feel more solid when changing gears or accelerating as the driveline moves.

Cheers mate. I believe they are Dynamic D Steelies. Maybe a 15x8+20. They came on the car when I bought it. 15x8 is a good size but +25 or 30 is better. thewheelgallery.com.au/products/dynamic-steel-drift-d

@JarrodWillemse thanks for replying man. I ordered dynamic 15x7 +12 yesterday. With 185s I hope it works. I hope it stays legal. What you think? Thanks again mate

@@DaiAw-qu2xr yeh the 7" with 185 is on the weaker side of fitment. It should fit easy. They don't fit with type r brakes though.

@@JarrodWillemse hey Jarrod, freaking out man. Got the rims. 15x7 +12. They stick out 20mm past guard. What do I do? Why? If only I can send you photo

@@DaiAw-qu2xr did they send you the right spec?

No does it have that option? Is it much different?

Sorry I’m not sure I haven’t used HTS before.

I don’t have any experience with that engine.

Always happy to help!

I had the same issues

I got one of those ebay harness to throw in and try.

Welcome to the Honda world hahaha 😝

I have only done a few thousands kms since installing and it’s fine. Did yours break?

No worries mate. Hopefully it delivers what you are looking for.

I played around with the dampers and I feel it’s pretty neutral i can get it to push in a corner or rotate depending how I apply the accelerator and brake

No worries mate i don’t plan to remove it. Best of luck with the job!

Just be careful moving it when powered on because you don’t want to damage the gauge.

I’m not sure but I did it on a link g4 and it was fine with the old style.

Just keep up the servicing they are pretty bulletproof proof not much goes wrong.

What’s wrong with the b20b?

Sounds like the 2000s tuner setup. 300hp reliable and fun perfect for a street car.

@JarrodWillemse for sure, it is my mate who helped me he works on drift cars and all Nissans. So we did our research and came up with this combo. I still have the car back in SA, but I now work in Kuala Lumpur, so one day, I will get it running again. It's sat for 10 years now, so it will need some new hoses and some other things, but it will get back on the road. Of course, I have the classic Wrok Meister S1 2pc rims to give it the JDM look.

Your welcome 🙏

Yes people use nistune to chip the ecu but its worth noting these ECU's are 30 + years old now and are not that reliable because of that. I would suggest buying a Haltec or Link ecu.

I wanted nismo seats but in Australia they are around 5k. It shouldn’t be too hard.

I have the original thermostat still.

It’s not as bright as the original face so change to some white led while you have it out.

No worries it’s not a popular video but I knew there are people out there looking for exactly this haha.

No not yet! Maybe if I do a nismo cluster I might

@ i changed my needle and yeah it doesnt do much anymore i’m going to try it like you did in the video hopefuly it works

Just the original one obd1

This car doesn’t have a carburettor.

Ohhh thanks I didn’t know that. It’s just the one that came in the kit from marketplace. Thanks for the feedback.

No pain no gain

Sounds good. That’s petty cheap they are much more expensive here in Australia. Easy to swap a b series later on into the car. Just don’t wait too long as they are getting expensive and hard to find.

@JarrodWillemse yeah, I've never done an engine swap before. And I love the K series, but I've always wanted a B series togue machine. They're just such beautiful motors, have insane VTEC and they are very relevant power houses still.

Hi mate you should buy it! Super fun and easy to work on!

@ it’s a b16a2 out of a 2000 si with a “stage 2 clutch” not sure hm of that is true but it is a b16 is it worth building or should I swap it again later on

No I just left it that colour.

Temp you put on once the car is fully warmed up and sit it at the half way mark. For the fuel I suggest taking a picture before where the needle sits on a flat surface and the replicate after.

@ thank you I’ll try, now it’s another problem the rpms work fine for the 2 first vroom then the needle stiffens up and I got to manually pull it a little bit outwards..

I found the problem, it was the inner piece of the cluster, I damaged it while taking the needle off.. thanks again

Thank you !🙏

Noioceeee how much hp?

Yeh they have jacking pads on them so there’s a gap of maybe 10mm. I can’t imagine you need it unless you’re working on a Ute or 4wd. Just make sure you order the longest version. This one can lift my civic and that’s a pretty short car.

@@JarrodWillemse Thanks for the quick reply! I went to Melbourne today and picked up the Quick Lifts along with the two extender plates. Bought the 3500kg version, which may be overkill for my 1600kg car but I like to err on the side of caution. The extender plate and extra rubber pads add around 50mm extra height to the unit in its resting state, which I thought was perfect to just fit under the 150mm clearance at the front lifting point, but I measured under the the other side of the car a few minutes ago to find that side is 15mm lower so that the Quick Lift with the extender plate wont quite fit under it! No big deal though, that just means I need to spend an extra minute to jack under the engine cross-member to lift the front up a tad to fit the Lifts in place. Clearance height at the back not a problem as the lifting point there is higher at 200mm per side (will require packing up with an extra block). I did need to buy the length extenders because the recommended lifting points for my '72 Mustang are under the torque boxes and the distance between them is around 1500-1600mm. Total price for 3500kg model and two extender plates was $2900 which is a little on the expensive side but I'm ok with that as DTM has had engineering testing and certification completed for this lift model so they are a WorkSafe approved item. I haven't started setting them up yet but my initial impression is that the build quality is good with safe welding and good final finish. Pretty glad you did the demo video, thanks for taking the time make it and post it, gave me the confidence to make the purchase!

Sounds interesting. I don’t have any experience in that department currently.