I feel that lol i got a 2016 dodge dart sxt last march with 58k miles. S8nce then, ive had to replace all 3 motor mounts, i have spark plugs that are melting, had to replace the transmission mount, have a sever clunk in the front end thats been ongoing since purchase, we just replaced the struts last weekend as dodge said that was the cause, only to discover it wasnt. Brakes and rotors are bad, transmission and powertrain are bad, fans are going out and are loud when running heat or AC, just doesnt stop. Come to find out, its possibly my calipers, which is what brought me to this video
@@rdr9519 just makes me miss my 06 300c 5.7 even more. Hate my dodge. Ive done more work since posting my comment. Just did CV axle, and wheel hub, and still have a clunk. At this point, ive basically replaced everything in the area that the clunk ia happening, and the clunk remains. Im now at 64.5k miles. Roughly $1700 in parts and diag fees with no fix.
@@easyautofixhi. A problem- I purchased a 140cc pit bike with rear brake not working.. I changed fluid and blead but still not working... any areas? Thanks
My mother bought a brand new car a number of years ago. About 15 months later, and 14,000 miles later, she heard the brakes squealing at the front. She took it to the selling dealers service department. They said her pads were worn, and replaced them. Then they said her brakes were heavily used, and abused. Nobody used the brakes in a manner as they were stating. She continued to drive the car, and said the front brakes felt funny at times as if they were locked up. At 23,000 miles the brakes were squesling again due to the warning sensors scraping the rotors. She returned to the selling dealer again. The second time they found both calipers were not releasing, and were causing the pads to ride on the rotors, and wear them out. They determined both calipers were defective from the beginning, and were causing the pads to wear. It was a brand new car, and both calipers on the front were defective right from the factory. They replaced the calipers, and there were no further problems. Her gas milesge improved too.
i just replaced the left side because it was dragging slightly, but now it pulls hard to the right, it’s like they were both seized enough to keep the car going straight ish😂
My breaks started making that noise like two weeks ago. I got the new breaks today and went to change them and noticed that on the passenger side the the rotors are ate up but on all the others they are even wear. Is that a bad caliper. I dont know if the past owner just didnt change it and had uneven ones or if it just ate the break up that much faster than the others.
So if I just did my rear pads, but I'm smelling like burnt brake fluid on one side, is it possible that its just breaking in the new pads or that particular caliper might be shot?
Great vid. I think i may be having a caliper issue but slightly different from what you described. I can hear what i think is the pads scraping against the rotors when i drive slowly. Often times when I come to a slow stop I get a brake squeal as well only on the front left. Lastly I do have leaning to the left. I replaced my caliper with a new "chinese" brand off amazon but I figured a caliper is so simple it should not matter if I don't go oem. Is it likely the chinese caliper is just bad out of the box? I don't have any leaking or anything.. just the issues I mentioned. I am unsure of what really there is to fail on this caliper since the seals are in good condition with no leaking.
Did you ever find out your problem? There are ways to test if its the actual caliper or if it's the brake lines themselves. Sometimes they are damaged inside and the hydraulic pressure is enough to force fluid into the caliper to close it but it won't let the fluid back out of the caliper or lets it out but slowly...this can also cause the seals to leak in the caliper because that fluid has to go somewhere in order for the piston to retract. Realize this is 2 months later but handy info non the less.
@@sheilaedwards4296 I’ve done every test possible. I think this issue may be the sway bar at this point or the master cylinder. As I’ve tried a new caliper and the issue remained. The issue presents itself in a number of ways that makes diagnosis difficult. The steering feels shaky at high speeds. Strange brake wear. And the most obvious issue is a clank noise over small bumps. I believe the swaybar bushings are bad but not enough to be moveable by hand. When I start the car in the morning and go down my garage incline and turn I notice a sort of rubbing noise that sounds as if the swaybar is moving within the bushings. I’m hoping this is the issue as I’m out of ideas at this point. All other front end components are new.
I have some weird thumping sound that happens over and over and over as I brake. And it comes from the drivers side. Any idea as to what it might be? Car doesn’t drag and the brake pads are even new
This is what is happening to my car. Especially feels like the car is driving with the brakes being engaged. Additionally, after coming to a stop and then taking foot off the brake, the car barely moves forward. It feels like the caliper is stuck engaging and wont fully let go.
Are you sure your engine is not overheating which causes the brake master cylinder to heat up which causes brake fluid to expand and hence brake drag....???
@@atillaozturk7075 Yeah it happens immediately when you press the on the brakes, even when the engine is cold. I’ve replaced one side’s calipers and it seemed to help.
@@Alex-lv1ph did you make sure all your sliding pins are lubricated with bendix high temp grease that you buy in those small packs?? rusty pins maybe?? Are you also sure your hand brake is releasing and no drag??? Also, try pushing the piston back in with bleeder nipple open...it should go in with ease and fluid leaking out of nipple...if not, your pistons are seized... Or, lift each tyre one by one and see if it spins freely....have someone step on the brakes to see if the brakes work and then let go to see if the brakes disengage....you can tell a lot about sticky brakes using this method.. just make sure to chock the tyres when releasing the hand brake and putting gear on neutral...
Did you hear a metaly scrapping noise when you let go of the brakes ? Also did your steering shake a bit before it happened? Something similar happened to me, when i pulled over the driver side rotor area was super hot & i could smell burnt metal
@@elguerokabron So my issue was just the brake hose. When i press the brake pedal, the fluid would go to the caliper but when I would let go of the brake pedal, the fluid would not come back up therefore keeping constant pressure on the brake. Hope this helps for everyone, and definitely consider your brake hoses!
So I think I have a seized brake caliper. The car will be running fine at first, then all of a sudden this shaking starts happening. Then it feels like someone is pressing the brakes to the point where the car won't accelerate the way I wanted to. Then when I get out of the car for the day, one rotor is extremely hotter than the other ones. So this is got to be a seized caliber.
Trying to figure out why my brakes work fine until i drive it a few miles the it seems to feel like the brakes are slightly on and my car actually slows down like i am riding the brakes..i wait until the brakes cool off then it is fine again..i suspect bad calipers but not sure..
Or the caliper piston is seized or piston boot is going bad, and you just replaced you rear brake pads and rotors only to redo them and the calipers😂. Yea I just replace rear rotors and pad on my 2011 fusion, and one of the calipers is failing and locking up so it warped the rotor. It’s always something man
hi, when i park on a slight hill and stop then press hard on my brakes then let off the brake peddle off the brake holds on for 2 seconds before it lets go, i changed the calliper and hose but its still the same, can you help me diagnose it please? thank you
2008 nissan altima coupe 3.5L v6, has 246,000 miles on it ive had it for 2 years, bought it for 1200$ and I've spent about 10,000$ just keeping the thing alive. Had no rear swaybar, rear tierods were shot, no power steering, had bald tires, front swaybars went shortly after, front tierod ends went, alternator went, all 6 ignition coils and sparkplugs went, radiator was replaced, because it was leaking alot,front shocks were replaced, fuel pump needs to be replaced, and hitting the brakes makes the car vibrate like a mf. And the rear brakes are decent, but the new front brakes are warped.
▶︎ OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
Dude the car problems never stop I swear😭
I feel that lol i got a 2016 dodge dart sxt last march with 58k miles. S8nce then, ive had to replace all 3 motor mounts, i have spark plugs that are melting, had to replace the transmission mount, have a sever clunk in the front end thats been ongoing since purchase, we just replaced the struts last weekend as dodge said that was the cause, only to discover it wasnt. Brakes and rotors are bad, transmission and powertrain are bad, fans are going out and are loud when running heat or AC, just doesnt stop. Come to find out, its possibly my calipers, which is what brought me to this video
@@unhollowed_7383 new dodge Chrysler or jeep never a good choice
@@rdr9519 just makes me miss my 06 300c 5.7 even more. Hate my dodge. Ive done more work since posting my comment. Just did CV axle, and wheel hub, and still have a clunk. At this point, ive basically replaced everything in the area that the clunk ia happening, and the clunk remains. Im now at 64.5k miles. Roughly $1700 in parts and diag fees with no fix.
@Unhollowed _ yeah man I know it's hard if you love the car but newer Chrysler products aren't very high quality. Newer cars in general don't last
@@unhollowed_7383The problem started when you bought a Dodge dart ngl
I wish every mechanic video was like this 😭 it’s so straight forward it’s scary
I appreciate you! That’s my goal.
@@easyautofixhi. A problem- I purchased a 140cc pit bike with rear brake not working.. I changed fluid and blead but still not working... any areas? Thanks
My mother bought a brand new car a number of years ago. About 15 months later, and 14,000 miles later, she heard the brakes squealing at the front. She took it to the selling dealers service department. They said her pads were worn, and replaced them. Then they said her brakes were heavily used, and abused. Nobody used the brakes in a manner as they were stating. She continued to drive the car, and said the front brakes felt funny at times as if they were locked up. At 23,000 miles the brakes were squesling again due to the warning sensors scraping the rotors. She returned to the selling dealer again. The second time they found both calipers were not releasing, and were causing the pads to ride on the rotors, and wear them out. They determined both calipers were defective from the beginning, and were causing the pads to wear. It was a brand new car, and both calipers on the front were defective right from the factory. They replaced the calipers, and there were no further problems. Her gas milesge improved too.
i just replaced the left side because it was dragging slightly, but now it pulls hard to the right, it’s like they were both seized enough to keep the car going straight ish😂
You should always replace 2 sides at a time to avoid this problem. Hope this info helps in the future.
My breaks started making that noise like two weeks ago. I got the new breaks today and went to change them and noticed that on the passenger side the the rotors are ate up but on all the others they are even wear. Is that a bad caliper. I dont know if the past owner just didnt change it and had uneven ones or if it just ate the break up that much faster than the others.
Excellent job on this video Bro.. Great info... short and concise... GREAT VISUALS TOO...
Very kind, thank you!
Great job explaining this, I learned a lot just from watching the video
Thank you!
Best video best video cant get no better than these!! Good job short and understanding
I appreciate you, thank you!
Thats what modern manufacturers want. Thank the system for that 1
So if I just did my rear pads, but I'm smelling like burnt brake fluid on one side, is it possible that its just breaking in the new pads or that particular caliper might be shot?
Great video, straight to the point
Thank you!
Great vid. I think i may be having a caliper issue but slightly different from what you described. I can hear what i think is the pads scraping against the rotors when i drive slowly. Often times when I come to a slow stop I get a brake squeal as well only on the front left. Lastly I do have leaning to the left. I replaced my caliper with a new "chinese" brand off amazon but I figured a caliper is so simple it should not matter if I don't go oem. Is it likely the chinese caliper is just bad out of the box? I don't have any leaking or anything.. just the issues I mentioned. I am unsure of what really there is to fail on this caliper since the seals are in good condition with no leaking.
Did you ever find out your problem? There are ways to test if its the actual caliper or if it's the brake lines themselves. Sometimes they are damaged inside and the hydraulic pressure is enough to force fluid into the caliper to close it but it won't let the fluid back out of the caliper or lets it out but slowly...this can also cause the seals to leak in the caliper because that fluid has to go somewhere in order for the piston to retract. Realize this is 2 months later but handy info non the less.
@@sheilaedwards4296 I’ve done every test possible. I think this issue may be the sway bar at this point or the master cylinder. As I’ve tried a new caliper and the issue remained. The issue presents itself in a number of ways that makes diagnosis difficult. The steering feels shaky at high speeds. Strange brake wear. And the most obvious issue is a clank noise over small bumps. I believe the swaybar bushings are bad but not enough to be moveable by hand. When I start the car in the morning and go down my garage incline and turn I notice a sort of rubbing noise that sounds as if the swaybar is moving within the bushings. I’m hoping this is the issue as I’m out of ideas at this point. All other front end components are new.
When pressing brakes there's a scratching squeezing sound to halt. What would that be
I have some weird thumping sound that happens over and over and over as I brake. And it comes from the drivers side. Any idea as to what it might be? Car doesn’t drag and the brake pads are even new
When you change the pads, did you change the rotor also? Most likely when you change your brake pad change your rotor disc also
This is what is happening to my car. Especially feels like the car is driving with the brakes being engaged. Additionally, after coming to a stop and then taking foot off the brake, the car barely moves forward. It feels like the caliper is stuck engaging and wont fully let go.
Are you sure your engine is not overheating which causes the brake master cylinder to heat up which causes brake fluid to expand and hence brake drag....???
@@atillaozturk7075 Yeah it happens immediately when you press the on the brakes, even when the engine is cold. I’ve replaced one side’s calipers and it seemed to help.
@@Alex-lv1ph
did you make sure all your sliding pins are lubricated with bendix high temp grease that you buy in those small packs?? rusty pins maybe??
Are you also sure your hand brake is releasing and no drag???
Also, try pushing the piston back in with bleeder nipple open...it should go in with ease and fluid leaking out of nipple...if not, your pistons are seized...
Or, lift each tyre one by one and see if it spins freely....have someone step on the brakes to see if the brakes work and then let go to see if the brakes disengage....you can tell a lot about sticky brakes using this method..
just make sure to chock the tyres when releasing the hand brake and putting gear on neutral...
Did you hear a metaly scrapping noise when you let go of the brakes ? Also did your steering shake a bit before it happened? Something similar happened to me, when i pulled over the driver side rotor area was super hot & i could smell burnt metal
@@elguerokabron So my issue was just the brake hose. When i press the brake pedal, the fluid would go to the caliper but when I would let go of the brake pedal, the fluid would not come back up therefore keeping constant pressure on the brake. Hope this helps for everyone, and definitely consider your brake hoses!
What if the break pads are are only gripping the top?
So I think I have a seized brake caliper. The car will be running fine at first, then all of a sudden this shaking starts happening. Then it feels like someone is pressing the brakes to the point where the car won't accelerate the way I wanted to. Then when I get out of the car for the day, one rotor is extremely hotter than the other ones. So this is got to be a seized caliber.
My car is having the same exact issue and shaking, did you find the issue
Trying to figure out why my brakes work fine until i drive it a few miles the it seems to feel like the brakes are slightly on and my car actually slows down like i am riding the brakes..i wait until the brakes cool off then it is fine again..i suspect bad calipers but not sure..
Or the caliper piston is seized or piston boot is going bad, and you just replaced you rear brake pads and rotors only to redo them and the calipers😂. Yea I just replace rear rotors and pad on my 2011 fusion, and one of the calipers is failing and locking up so it warped the rotor. It’s always something man
hi, when i park on a slight hill and stop then press hard on my brakes then let off the brake peddle off the brake holds on for 2 seconds before it lets go, i changed the calliper and hose but its still the same, can you help me diagnose it please? thank you
what kind of car do you have?
I think that is a "hill hold" function. Nothing to worry about
@@Euro.Paleta exactly what i was thinking
2008 nissan altima coupe 3.5L v6, has 246,000 miles on it ive had it for 2 years, bought it for 1200$ and I've spent about 10,000$ just keeping the thing alive. Had no rear swaybar, rear tierods were shot, no power steering, had bald tires, front swaybars went shortly after, front tierod ends went, alternator went, all 6 ignition coils and sparkplugs went, radiator was replaced, because it was leaking alot,front shocks were replaced, fuel pump needs to be replaced, and hitting the brakes makes the car vibrate like a mf. And the rear brakes are decent, but the new front brakes are warped.
Appreciate the video!!
I appreciate you!
I hear/feel a vibration while braking… what is that?
Most of the time it is your brake rotors.
When I put on breaks it’s a dragging sound and then the pedal shakes
Sounds like the brake pads are worn and the rotor is warped.
If u brake while going over a bumps I feel like it breaks my calipers
Okay I think we are experiencing the same symptom, I just changed rotors and pads and its better but still feel it so
Great video, but this guy needs to speak naturally. His cadence to every sentence is massively irritating.
This is not a natural voice.